SHOP EATOpen 7 days a week - 9.30am to 5.30pmNr. Tarves on the B999, Aberdeenshire AB41 7NU

GOURMET DELIGHTS FOR A SMASHING CHRISTMAS TURKEYS - HAMPERS - CHEESE - WINES - BEERS -

GIFTS - DECORATIONS

EXPERIENCEFORMARTINE’S…

SET IN STUNNING WOODLAND,

DISCOVER THE RICH SIGHTS,

TASTES AND SOUNDS OF THE

HEART OF ABERDEENSHIRE

WALK PLAYE:contactus@formartines.com | T: 01651 851123

www.formartines.com

BOOKINGS FOR CHRISTMAS LUNCHES DURING DECEMBER

SHOPVisit our fine food hall and gift shop and choose from local butchery, locally grown fruit and veg, great wines, beautiful hampers and gifts for all the family. You’ll discover delights from our very own award-winning Smokehouse, ready meals prepared in our kitchen and a fantastic selection of cheeses, olives and antipasti from our deli counter.

EATOur menu and daily specials offer a cracking selection of local, seasonal produce expertly prepared by our talented kitchen team, led by Head Chef Matt Ingham. Enjoy breakfast, lunch, all day brunch or delicious tea, coffee and cake. Sit in or go al fresco on the deck. No need to book but sometimes a short wait is necessary.

WALKOur picturesque woodland walks are perfect for a stroll around the lake - look out for otters, ospreys and red squirrels, amongst others! Grab a picnic from the shop and have a pit-stop at one of the picnic benches on the way. Challenge the kids to find the fairy house, dens and swings in the woodies.

PLAYClimb, swing, jump, and run....Our outdoor woodland play area is sure to keep the children entertained and outside in the fresh air, enjoying some adventures.

04

savourIssue 05 2014

05

savourIssue 05 2014

contactsissuu.com/savour

Savour is produced by Mackintosh Media Ltd., PO Box 11966Westhill, AB32 9AL

CHIEF EXECUTIVE

Steve MacKintosh

T: +44 (0) 7967106803

E: steve@mackintoshmedia.co.uk

EDITORIAL

Eric Farquharson

T: +44 (0) 7730133036

E: eric@mackintoshmedia.co.uk

PRODUCTION

Calum Farquhar

E: calum@mackintoshmedia.co.uk

ACCOUNTS & DISTRIBUTION

E: accounts@mackintoshmedia.co.uk

Welcome tosavourA celebration of north-east food and drinkISSUE 05, 2014

FROM THE EDITOR

You might think I’m crazy, but winter is one of my favourite times of the year. There’s nothing nicer than wrapping up and taking a brisk walk under a clear blue sky on a crisp winter’s day. Then, of course, there is the food! Lots of hearty soups and stews, and rich and filling puddings. Speaking of which, you’ll find inside some great recipes to try at home, including Nick Nairn’s top festive tips. I meet sisters, Steph and Lauren Murray, who have taken over the helm of the Dowans Hotel in Aberlour with the aim of making it one of the country’s leading destinations for whisky lovers. And, on that theme, you can soak up my choice of four new books, all with a drinks theme, which would make ideal stocking fillers. Our own wine connoisseur, Carol Brown, explores the great Madeira wines and we hear what David Beckham has to say about that famous shoot in the

Highlands for the Haig Club commercial. I also review the best of local hampers, an ideal gift, and reveal the winners of this year’s Highlands & Islands Food & Drink Awards. Our front cover and main story reveals the life of heart-throb baker Paul Hollywood, no stranger to an Aberdeen audience, and we travel to the bonnie banks of Loch Lomond to check out two superb and very different hotels on its shores.

As this is the last Savour of this year, I’d like to say forget the diet for a week or two and tuck into some great festive fayre. Have a very ‘Merry Christmas’ and a happy and not too sober Hogmanay. I look forward to being with you again in the New Year with more foodie news, celebrity chats and recipes for you to try. Slàinte! @SavourMag

06

savourIssue 05 2014

Mini Smoked Salmon and Dill Cakes

Ingredients• 250g floury potatoes, such as Maris Piper, Desirée or King Edward, cut into large chunks • 2 tbsp cream cheese • 200g

smoked salmon • 2 tbsp roughly chopped fresh dill • 1 lemon, zest only, finely grated • 1 tsp horseradish sauce • 1 tbsp

drained capers, chopped (optional) • salt and freshly ground black pepper • 4 heaped tbsp fresh breadcrumbs • olive oil

Method1: Preheat the oven to 200ºC. 2: Boil the potatoes in unsalted water for about 20 minutes until tender. There’s no need to add salt to

the water as the smoked salmon will provide the required saltiness. Drain, leave to cool for a couple of minutes, allowing the steam

to evaporate, and then mash with the cream cheese until smooth. 3: Chop the smoked salmon and mix with the mashed potatoes,

dill, lemon zest, horseradish and capers, if using, and season with salt and pepper. Shape into walnut-sized balls and flatten gently.

Lightly coat each one with the breadcrumbs and place on an oiled baking sheet. Either cook straight away or refrigerate until

needed. 4: To cook, drizzle over a little olive oil and bake in the oven for 10-12 minutes, turning after five minutes or until golden.

07

savourIssue 05 2014

ingredientsA celebration of north-east food and drinkISSUE 05, 2014

BreakawayBreakaway to the banks of

stunning Loch Lomond

Major RefurbishmentThe White Horse Inn gets

major refurbishment

Cheers!Two sisters take over

the Dowans Hotel

Soak it upNew drinks

books to read

Christmas Table TipsDressing your

table for Christmas

Farmers’ MarketsWhat’s new in the localFarmers’ Markets?

The latest food news Catch up with

all the news

p52/53

p31

p24/25

p23

p17

p14/15

p08/09

28

11

20 30 54

12

44

08

savourIssue 05 2014

NewsBites...

Double Celebration

An Aberdeen hotel has celebrated its first birthday with a major in-house award win.

Hotel group Rezidor named The Park Inn by Radisson as the top venue in its 145-strong estate on the basis of occupancy rates and profitability over the past year.

The six-storey, 185-bedroom hotel was built by property group Hazledene as part of its IQ offices and hotel development. It incorporates eight meeting rooms, a conference room and a gym and employs 100 staff.

General manager David Allan said occupancy rates in the hotel’s first year exceeded expectations.

“The hotel is in a prime location in the heart of the city and we have attracted a wide cross-section of guests including holidaymakers, weekend visitors, business people and corporate clients,” he said.

One of the North East’s last remaining traditional country inns is celebrating after being named one of the best in the UK by a leading food guide.

Reviewers from Harden’s and The Times newspaper selected The Lairhillock Inn at Netherley, near Stonehaven, to feature in the ‘25 best country pubs for food’ list.

The historic restaurant, which was taken over by the Law family in 2007, is renowned for its home-cooked local favourites and Scottish classics that are freshly prepared each day, and it was the only Aberdeenshire restaurant and one of just two in Scotland to make the list, with the Applecross Inn at Applecross in Wester Ross also getting

a mention. The list picked out venues offering the best pub food in the UK, where the fare on offer was “more likely to be lobster bisque or home-smoked duck than pickled eggs and chicken in a basket.”

Writers from Harden’s praised the Lairhillock and its staff, and said: “They take their food seriously at this family-run historic coaching inn. They not only peat smoke their own salmon and serve it with wasabi butter, but they smoke chicken and duck too, as well as haddock for their take on the Scottish classic fish soup, Cullen skink. The selection of grilled steaks could only be Aberdeen Angus.”

Manager of The Lairhillock Inn, Donald Law (pictured), said: “To be one of two Scottish establishments to make this list is a fantastic achievement and one which we are extremely proud of. For us to beat other similar pubs in the North East – an area with an abundance of fine dining options – really is testament to how hard all the staff here work to create the best possible environment for diners.”

North-east RestaurantVoted One of the Nation’s

Best Gastropubs

09

savourIssue 05 2014

Scotland’s food and drink was showcased to over 45,000 spectators from 75 countries across the globe every day at the Ryder Cup.

Around 260,000 meals were catered for over the course of the tournament. The produce used included:

• 480lbs of Scottish smoked salmon • 20,000 portions of fresh cod and haddock from Scottish waters • 1,500lbs of local Perthshire strawberries• 20,000 hand-pressed Simon Howie beefburgers • 2,400 bottles of Johnnie Walker Whisky

The Ryder Cup is the first major event since the 2014 Commonwealth Games in Glasgow to adopt a Food Charter, and is believed to be the first Ryder Cup to have done so. This means the menu offered local food from sustainable and traceable sources with ethical, safe, and healthy choices wherever possible. Any food waste

was sent for anaerobic digestion – helping

with the aim to become the first-ever zero-

waste-to-landfill Ryder Cup.

Speaking following a tour of catering

facilities at the Ryder Cup, Cabinet

Secretary for Rural Affairs and the

Environment, Richard Lochhead (pictured)

said: “The Ryder Cup has been the perfect

platform to showcase Scotland’s world-

class food and drink to visitors from 75

countries across the globe.”

James Withers, chief executive of Scotland

Food & Drink, said: “The Ryder Cup is an

iconic event and it was always our ambition

to use it as a platform to showcase our

Land of Food and Drink.

“We’ve had many spectators comment

on the quality of produce on offer, with

suppliers big and small from the four

corners of Scotland supplying the event.”

A host of food and drink related events will be taking place in and around St Andrews at the end of November as part of a range of activities leading up to St Andrew’s Day.

One of the highlights of the third St Andrews Food and Drink Festival celebrations will be a special dinner combining the best of Scottish and local produce with the skills of four of Scotland’s top chefs – from the Old Course Hotel, Golf Resort and Spa; Fairmont St Andrews; the Adamson; and St Andrews Links.

During the festival a number of other top local restaurants are providing special menus, and there will be cookery demonstrations and food photography sessions in the town hall, a StAnza poetry event at Zest, and a whisky event and book signing with ‘Whisky’s finest guru’, Charles MacLean, at bookseller Topping & Company.

The programme also offers opportunities for locals and visitors to meet experts on whiskies, beer and gins, ice cream, seafood, chocolate and wines.

Co-ordinator Viv Collie said that the festival organisers had been working with local businesses to help them organise some special events and publicise off-season activity in the town.

The festival will run from 22-30 November, and it will be launched on the evening of 21 November as several events take place in the town, including a special ‘To Italy from Scotland’ dinner at the three-AA-rosette Rocca Bar and Grill.

On the same evening there will be a wine tasting and four-course dinner at Playfair’s Restaurant and Steakhouse, and a champagne evening with Rose Murray Brown at Rufflets.

Ryder Cup Showcases Food

and Drink

St Andrews Hosts St Andrew’s Day Event

10

savourIssue 05 2014

Always had room in your heart for an AGA, but never enough space in the kitchen? Well, now you have. The electric AGA City60 is everything you would expect from an AGA, but wrapped up in a smaller package. At just 60cm wide – the same size as a slot-in cooker or a standard kitchen unit – it’s perfect for smaller spaces.

There are two ovens, offering roasting, baking and simmering functions and a hotplate which allows you to boil and simmer. Plus, both the ovens and hotplates can be switched on when you need them and off when you don’t.

The AGA City60 is available in two design styles – traditional and contemporary – and in 14 beautiful colours, including the new Rose and Lemon.

Learn more about AGA

It is difficult to appreciate all the benefits of an AGA cooker without seeing one in action. An AGA demonstration offers a great way to learn more about the cooker, meet AGA owners and, importantly, taste the delicious food it has to offer.

11

savourIssue 05 2014

Winter is a great time to stock up on rustic vegetables and gamey meat, while sea bass is at its best this time of year. Sourcing a seasonal spread for Christmas is simple at this period. Turkey is, of course, in season; however, why not consider a different bird for the table such as grouse, wild duck or pheasant?

A number of vegetables are at their best in winter, such as parsnips and celery. Look forward to the fleshy innards of ruby red pomegranate fruits that appear in December and work beautifully as a garnish or to flavour stews.

in season

• Apple • Brussels sprouts • Cabbage• Celeriac • Chestnut • Cranberry

• Horseradish • Jerusalem artichoke• Kale • Mussels • Oyster • Parsnip

• Pheasant • Pomegranate • Pumpkin• Satsuma • Scallop • Sea bass • Swede

• Cabbage • Clementine • Goose• Horseradish • Jerusalem artichoke• Kale • Mussels • Oyster • Parsnip

• Pomegranate • Satsuma • Sea bass• Swede • Truffle • Venison • Wild duck

November

December

12

savourIssue 05 2014

Perfect Roast PotatoesThe best variety to use is King Edward,

giving you a lovely crispy outside and

a lovely fluffy meal. Peel and wash the

potatoes, then boil in cold salted water for

10 minutes or so, or until you can insert a

sharp knife. Drain and shake in a colander

to fluff up the outside. There are lots of

different fats you can use for roasting –

beef dripping, duck fat, vegetable oil – and

they will all work well. My preference in

the restaurant is duck fat, but at home I

use vegetable oil and that still produces

great roasties. Put your oil in a deep tray

– approximately 2.5 cm – and put in a

hot oven at the same time as you put

your potatoes on to boil. Hot oil is very

important. Add your parboiled potatoes

and cook for about an hour or until crispy

and golden brown, turning once or twice

during cooking.

How to take the pain out of Christmas lunchBe prepared! Get as much done the

day before. All the vegetables can be

peeled and stored in cold water ready

to be cooked, and the same applies

for the potatoes. Make the stuffing and

stuff the bird. Have your sauces and

accompaniments ready – cranberry sauce

can be made days or even weeks before.

The only exception to this is bread sauce,

which needs to be made on the day.

Don’t get too big a turkey. The bigger

the turkey, the longer cooking time and

the more chance of it going dry, meaning

more time for you spent in the kitchen

basting and checking and basting!

An alternative to turkeyTurkey is not the most exciting of meats

and it is kind of a shame that it dominates

one of the most important meals of the

year. There are free range birds, but be

prepared to pay for these as they can be

expensive. Goose is a great alternative,

but again is expensive. I think something

a bit different works well – suckling pig

or porchetta, which can be bought from

a good butcher or bought online. It is

easy to cook (no getting up at 5 a.m. to

put the turkey in the oven!) and can be

made more Christmassy with the addition

of caramelised apple, brown sugar, orange

and lemon rind, dried apricots and mixed

spice.

Christmas leftoversYou have finished your Christmas lunch

and are left with mountains of turkey and

possibly trimmings, so is there more you

can do than make sandwiches and a curry?

A twist on a boring turkey sandwich is very

simple. Chop up your turkey, and slice any

pigs-in-blankets that you might have left

over. Add some stuffing, cranberry sauce

and mix with a little mayonnaise to bind

it, and serve on slices of baguette as an

open sandwich.

You could also take your leftovers and

make a pretty special bubble-and-squeak/

hash. Chop up the turkey, any roast

potatoes and veg that you have left, mix

it all together and fry in a pan with a little

oil until crispy. Serve like that or top with

a fried egg.

ChristmasCooking Tips

by David Haetzman, executive chef at Kyloe Restaurant & Grill, Edinburgh

13

savourIssue 05 2014

The quintessential Christmas dinner veg, Brussels

sprouts are thought to have been cultivated in Belgium

in the 16th century - hence the name. Although they’re

related to cabbage - they even look like a miniature,

compact version - they have a sweet, nutty flavour,

which some people can find bitter. They grow in

multiple rows along a thick, central stalk.

AvailabilityBrussels sprouts are at their best over the winter

months, coming in to season in October and lasting

through until March.

Choose the bestPlump, bright green heads (the smaller, the sweeter)

with tightly packed leaves. If you can buy them still

attached to their long central stalk, so much the better

- they’ll keep fresh for longer that way.

Prepare itIf the sprouts are still on the stalk, twist each one off,

trim any loose, yellow or damaged leaves, wash, then

trim the base. Some people cut a cross in the base to

make sure they cook evenly but with smaller ones it’s

not necessary, as it can cause them to go mushy. Larger

ones can be cut in half.

To boil, put into a pan with some salt, cover with

boiling water, bring back to the boil and cook, covered,

for 5-10 minutes. They take 5-10 minutes to steam.

To stir fry, halve or slice finely and cook for about 10

minutes. Sprouts cook very quickly, and if overcooked

are quite unpleasant, so test them regularly by piercing

with a knife.

Store itIn a dark, cool place or the fridge for four days.

Cook itStir fry oil with onions and ginger; add cooked chestnuts

at Christmas; boil until al dente (firm to the bite), then

quickly pan fry with diced pancetta and chopped garlic.

TipsLook out for sprouts still on the stem in farmers

markets or at your local farm shop, they’ll stay fresher

for much longer.

Spruce UpYour Sprouts

14

savourIssue 05 2014

Torphins MarketTorphins is the only regular weekly outdoor farmers’ market in Scotland! Set up in August 2012 by David and Emma Pattullo, who have run

Platform 22 pottery and coffee house for the past ten years, the market features a number of well-known producers on the Aberdeenshire

circuit, including Granite City Fish, H.M. Sheridan the Butcher and the Three Fields Veg. The market – held 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. every Wednesday

at Platform 22 – also features Gordonstone Eggs and Aboyne Honey as well as a range of craft producers including their own artisan bread

stall, Retrouvaille and Colour Carnival. Torphins is running a special Christmas market on Saturday 6 December and hosts a number of

Seasonal Saturday markets throughout the year with arts and crafts stalls, as well as giving local causes the opportunity to fund-raise. For

further information on forthcoming events check Platform 22’s website, Facebook, Twitter @platform22art or contact David and Emma on

013398 82807.

Featured Producer – H M Sheridan H M Sheridan began trading in April 1963 from a mobile van and a converted garage. Within a few years Michael Sheridan had purchased his

first shop in Ballater, moving in 1979 to the present shop which has been a butcher’s for over 120 years. In 2006 Michael passed away and

bequeathed the business to two of his employees, Barry Florence and John Sinclair, who continue to provide a superb service to their many

retail customers and to local hotels. H M Sheridan was first granted the Royal Warrants of Her Majesty The Queen and His Royal Highness

The Prince of Wales, Duke of Rothesay in 1987. The shop is fabulous - a ‘must visit’.

H M Sheridan’s superb beef is purchased from local farms and is matured for 21 days. Lamb is local blackface, heather-fed for a unique,

rich taste. Venison is purchased from a local estate. As a wild product it is a very healthy, lean meat with a very distinctive flavour. Pork (see

recipe) is sourced from Aberdeenshire and reared outdoors for a fuller flavour. And as well as attending the weekly market at Torphins, you’ll

find H M Sheridan at Aberdeen and Westhill monthly markets. Well worth seeking out for their wonderful range of high quality local produce!

15

savourIssue 05 2014

Ingredients• 650g H M Sheridan’s pork belly or fatty shoulder with rind removed • 125g chorizo or spicy sausage, chopped • 2 tbsp oil • 6 to 8 small onions or shallots, sliced lengthways • 2 tbsp plain flour • 6 cloves of garlic, chopped finely or crushed • 4 sticks of celery, chopped • 1 large Bramley apple, peeled and chopped • 2 tsp allspice berries, crushed • 400g tin of

puy lentils, rinsed • 250ml dry cider (at least!)

Methods1: Set the oven to 180°C. 2: Season the pork with sea salt and coarse ground black pepper. 3: Heat the oil in a casserole dish,

add the pork and brown well on both sides, then remove it from the dish. 4: Add the onions, celery and garlic to the dish, and

cook until softened. 5: Then add the apple, allspice and chorizo. Cook together for about five minutes, stirring occasionally.

6: Now add the flour and stir in until well mixed. 7: Add the cider and stir to de-glaze the pan. 8: Place the pork on top of the mix, then place in the oven for two hours or so, stirring the sauce and turning the pork occasionally. Do add more cider if

the mix looks too thick or sticks! 9: Add the puy lentils halfway through cooking. 10: Once cooked, remove the pork from the

dish, slice and serve with sauce, mashed potatoes and your choice of seasonal vegetables. 11: Enjoy!

Farmers’ Markets can be found at:Aberdeen - last Saturday of the month 9 a.m. – 5 p.m.Banchory - 3rd Saturday of the month 9 a.m. – 1 p.m.

Huntly - 1st Saturday of the month 9 a.m. – 1 p.m.Inverurie - 2nd Saturday of the month 9 a.m. – 1 p.m.

Macduff - Last Saturday of the month 9 a.m. – 12.30 p.m.Stonehaven - 1st Saturday of the month 9 a.m. – 1 p.m.

Torphins - Every WednesdayTurriff - 3rd Saturday of the month 9 a.m. – 12.30 p.m.Westhill - 1st Saturday of the month 9 a.m. – 1 p.m.

Pot-Roasted Pork Belly in Cider

16

savourIssue 05 2014

Pulled Pork with Spicy Coleslaw

IngredientsFor the pulled pork: • oil, for greasing • 2kg pork shoulder • 1 tbsp chilli flakes • 1 tbsp whole grain mustard • salt and freshly

ground black pepper • 200ml white wine vinegar • 250ml cider • 3 onions, finely sliced • 6 cloves garlic, sliced

For the coleslaw: • half a white cabbage, finely chopped • 2 carrots, grated • 2 red onions, finely sliced • 1 red chilli, seeds

removed, finely chopped • 175g mayonnaise • salt and freshly ground black pepper • 1 lime, juice only • 1 tbsp soy sauce

To serve: • soft white bread rolls • ready-made barbecue sauce

Method1: Preheat the oven to 170ºC. 2: For the pulled pork, oil a baking tray and place the pork shoulder on top. Mix together the chilli,

mustard and salt and freshly ground black pepper, then rub the mixture into the pork shoulder. 3: Pour the vinegar and cider

over, then scatter over the onion and garlic. 4: Cover with parchment paper, then wrap in foil and place into the oven to roast for

three hours. Remove the parchment and foil, then roast for another hour. 5: ‘Pull’ the pork by sticking a fork in the shoulder and

shredding the meat into small pieces with another fork. 6: For the coleslaw, in a separate bowl, mix together all of the coleslaw

ingredients until well combined. 7: To serve, pile the pulled pork shoulder on a serving plate and spoon the coleslaw next to it. Serve

with soft white rolls and barbecue sauce to taste.

By Simon Rimmer

17

savourIssue 05 2014

Dressing Your Christmas Table

With everybody tucking into their Christmas dinner, food being chopped and peas flying, it’s a good idea to protect your table. Opt for a warm shade of tablecloth such as a deep red, or embrace your Scottish roots with a tartan tablecloth from John Lewis.

For those who enjoy filling your own plate from an array of dishes in the middle of the table, a table runner can really set it off. Take the John Lewis 12 Days of Christmas Runner, a characterful and familiar detail to set your table off before the food arrives.

You can’t have a Christmas toast without the clink of glasses! You can choose from a range of shapes and sizes of champagne and wine glasses available at John Lewis, such as the Waterford Crystal Lismore Essence Champagne flutes.

Your Christmas table should be multi-functional

on the day. Once the Christmas lunch plates

have cleared, make it a home for afternoon tea.

The perfect wind-down to a hectic morning and

lunch. With pretty pieces such as the John Lewis

12 Days of Christmas Tea Plates, the festivities

can continue in a more relaxed manner.

No table would be complete without Christmas

crackers, fun for all of the family. To keep

the kids occupied while the food is waiting

to be served, crackers such as the John Lewis

Christmas Talent Mini Crackers are a good

option, containing the classic joke and hat. And

for the adults there are the John Lewis Croft

Collection Fill Your Own Joy Christmas Crackers

to give a cracking gift that has that personal

meaning.

Sitting around the Christmas table is something that everyone looks forward to on Christmas Day. Heather Clark, home design adviser at John Lewis Aberdeen, has top

tips to make sure that your Christmas table is looking its festive best.

18

savourIssue 05 2014

SeptemberOur neighbour’s new beehive is all the buzz at the moment. After a seventeen-week course, she has donned her

astronaut-type white suit and constructed a new hive a little uncomfortably close to our summerhouse. We’re all

agreed it’s great for the allotment, but I have this feeling of impending doom!

I mentioned in my previous rants about the success of our green beans. Now I’m quite literally having nightmares

about them! There are masses of them and, despite freezing bags of the green pods, we are eating them with

everything. They’re accompanying every piece of meat on the plate, lurking in the quiche and even sneaking

into the soup. I wake in the night in a sweat thinking I’ve turned into one! Then my wife suggests, as they’ve

been such a success, we should grow more next year!!

I thought once a raised bed was emptied, I could relax a little, but there is apparently a lot to be done before

the winter weather sets in. The horse poo, which has been smouldering nicely in a corner, is wheeled onto the

vacated beds and dug in, accompanied by a bag of rotted compost. This is to ensure better crops next year.

19

savourIssue 05 2014

(Note to myself – don’t put any were the green beans are going!)

Speaking of which, my better half is already pacing the allotment

with pad in hand, sketching a plan for next year’s rotation. Nothing

can be planted in the same bed as the previous year as each family of

vegetables gives and takes something from the soil. It’s a bit technical,

but all to do with taking out and putting in nutrients. Funnily enough,

it’s a bit of history that sticks in my mind from schooldays. (Yes! I

can remember that far back). I believe British agriculturalist, Charles

Townshend, devised the plan in the 18th century.

Some of the beds, however, are not being vacated. We’re attempting

to grow some veg over the winter and have added more young

leeks, fennel and onions to the turnips, sprouts and kale already

sturdily set to take on the inclement weather. The empty beds are

covered in cardboard and old carpet to stop weed growth and keep

the soil warm for spring planting. Unfortunately, our neat, beloved

plot now looks something like a vacated gypsy encampment. (Am I

allowed to say that?)

OctoberWell, I guess this will be my last rant for a while, you’ll be relieved

to hear, as there is very little activity over the colder winter months.

Our sunflowers, which towered over the allotment like sentries

on guard, are beginning to wither and the decapitated heads are

poked and scraped to release seeds for next year. The squashes and

pumpkins, which greedily take over much of the surface area, have

been harvested and eager grandchildren are anticipating creative

hollowing and crafting in time for Hallowe’en. Which brings me to my

next rant? What happened to the good old ‘neep lantern’? Let’s get

back to supporting our local farmers instead of importing pumpkins

from the USA. Turnips are cheaper, make equally as great a lantern,

go with any meats and make a grand bowl of soup.

Unfortunately, my sense of foreboding in relation to the honeybees

was justified. While talking to my neighbouring, white-clad apiarist

(that’s a beekeeper), a surrounding swarm of bees decided to

vacate her person and take refuge on me! Instead of remaining still,

I started to prance around like a banshee, flailing the spade I was

holding above my head. My wife, son and neighbouring gardeners

thought I’d finally taken leave of my senses until the adventurous

bees made a flight of fancy towards them and sent them scurrying

to their respective sheds – but not before one had embedded his

sting in my chin. However, rather ironically and much to our relief, as

honeybees are to be encouraged, a new apiary is being constructed

some distance from our allotment.

So, as the clocks change once more and winter approaches, it’s time

to bid farewell from our veggie patch until the spring sunshine brings

hibernating gardeners back to the allotment once more. We can’t

wait to have the family round for Christmas to serve up all our home-

grown produce so, on that note, I wish you the compliments of the

season and we’ll catch-up in springtime.

20

savourIssue 05 2014

Spinach & Smoked Salmon Egg Muffins

Ingredients• 1 tbsp white wine vinegar • 4 of the freshest eggs you can get • 300g spinach • 25g butter, for frying and spreading

• 2 English muffins, split • 4 long slices good-quality smoked salmon

For the hollandaise sauce: • 2 egg yolks • 140g butter, melted • juice of ½ lemon • pinch of cayenne pepper

Methods1: To make the hollandaise, sit a large bowl over a pan of hot water and whisk the egg yolks with 2 tablespoons of hot water.

Gradually add the melted butter (without adding the milky liquid at the bottom) until it has all been incorporated. Whisk in the

lemon juice and season with the cayenne pepper and salt to taste, then set aside. 2: Heat a shallow pan of water with the vinegar,

but no salt, until gently boiling, then poach the eggs for two minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and cool in cold water. 3: Fry

the spinach in a wok with a knob of butter until wilted, then drain and season. 4: To serve, heat the grill to high. Lay the muffins

on a flat roasting tray, cut-side up, then toast until brown. Butter the muffins lightly, then top each with a ruffle of smoked salmon.

Divide the spinach between the muffins, leaving a slight dip in the middle to sit the eggs on. Spoon a quarter of the sauce over each

egg, then return the tray to the grill to brown for a minute. Serve immediately.

21

savourIssue 05 2014

Food for Thought in New Deer offer a wide range of hampers to suit

your individual needs. They have put together a selection of three

gift hampers full of delicious goodies, which can be collected from

the shop or despatched anywhere within mainland UK. They offer

an amazing Christmas Hamper with lots of festive goodies for only

£45, a Gourmet Hamper at £37.00 and a Sweet Treats Hamper at

only £36.00 (all prices: plus postage). They even supply a bespoke

hamper service for the Aberdeenshire corporate market providing

a high quality, value-for-money token of appreciation for your

customers or staff. www.foodforthoughtdeli.co.uk

Formartine’s have a fantastic range of hampers to make the perfect

gift for anyone. They have Aberdeenshire Hampers, Gourmet

Hampers, and Gluten-Free Hampers – to name but a few, and their

bespoke hamper service is very popular. They also have nationwide

delivery. www.formartines.com

Mitchells in Inverurie have hampers for all occasions – Christmas,

birthdays, weddings, a ‘get well soon’ gift, or simply to say a special

‘thank you’. Whether you require an individual bespoke hamper or a

corporate order, the team at Mitchells are happy to help you select

the perfect gift. Simply chose a budget and theme, and they will

take care of the rest – including delivery to mainland UK addresses.

From a traditional wicker hamper, a beautifully wrapped open tray

basket or a cardboard pantry box, Mitchells’ hampers are lovingly

filled with a selection from the extensive range of products available

in their Inverurie shop. Specialising in fabulous local and Scottish

produce as well as wines, spirits, beers and a whole lot more, there’s

always plenty to chose from. A range of hampers is available on

Mitchells’ website, including the option to create your own bespoke

hamper. Alternatively you can call into Mitchells in Market Place,

Inverurie to select your own contents, which can be gift-wrapped

for you. For more information, visit www.mitchells-scotland.com

The Store at Foveran have Christmas hampers brimming full of local,

seasonal and artisan produce with contents to suit every taste and

budget. Looking for a personalised present? Why not get a bespoke

hamper made with help from the team? The Store hampers can be

delivered nationwide and are presented in recycled wooden crate

boxes which are completely reusable!

www.thestorecompany.co.uk

A Hamper Makes the Perfect Gift

Craft Beer Festival Proves it Can Brew Up

the Perfect FestivalAn inaugural craft beer festival was deemed a success in late summer after welcoming over 800 festivalgoers into Eden Court in Inverness.

North Hop, the first large craft beer festival to take place in the Highlands, opened its doors offering over 50 beers and ciders to ale and music enthusiasts.

The two-day festival, which attracted individuals from all over the world, boasted around 20 exhibitors celebrating craft beer, artisan gins, creative cocktails, independent music and a selection of street vendors from around Scotland.

Breweries offered up one-third and two-third of a pint measures to ensure festivalgoers could experience a number of different beers. All festivalgoers were offered a complimentary taste of an exclusive festival brew, which was specially crafted for the occasion by Windswept Brewing Co.

Festival organiser, Michelle Russell, said: “The festival was a real success, everyone seemed to be enjoying themselves and I’ve received really positive feedback from exhibitors and festivalgoers. The atmosphere was electric.

“Everyone was really excited about the festival and the

exhibitors have said it was something different to other exhibitions where they are used to selling. Festivalgoers could interact with the individual exhibitors, allowing them to speak to the brewers behind the businesses and products. It was great to see.”

North Hop took place at Eden Court and is planning to return to the venue in 2015.

Michelle commented: “We are hoping to double the amount of beers available for next year and increase the number of street food vendors at the festival. The artisan gins and cocktails went down a treat and it was very refreshing to see a wide range of ages at the festival, as well as a lot of women too.

“The craft beer scene is hugely male dominated. However, more and more women are getting involved, so I’m glad the festival appealed to them. We also had people travel from America to come to the festival, which was incredible.”

The festival, which ran over a Friday and Saturday, welcomed local and national music acts from all over Scotland to entertain the busy beer hall, and local DJs were invited to play upstairs in the cocktail lounge.

23

savourIssue 05 2014

Soak up These Winter Books

Make Mine a Martini by Kay Plunkett-Hogge Mitchell Beazley | September 2014 | £14.99

A self-taught cook, Nick Nairn has been a long-time champion of

fresh Scottish produce, but his cooking also takes its influences

from all over the world. In New Scottish Cookery, Nick combines the

very best fresh Scottish ingredients with a myriad of international

flavours, to create a mouth-watering collection of recipes destined

to become the Scottish classics of the future. Containing the

signature dishes that have made Nick’s reputation from his

bestselling Wild Harvest books, as well as over 80 new recipes, the

book is a celebration of good quality, great-tasting food. Beautifully

illustrated with 100 colour photos and including a useful guide

to where to buy the best Scottish ingredients, Nick Nairn’s New

Scottish Cookery continues to delight food lovers everywhere.

Pocket Beer Book by Stephen Beaumont and Tim Webb Mitchell Beazley | September 2014 | £12.99

In this second edition of their Pocket Beer Book, acclaimed beer

writers Stephen Beaumont and Tim Webb have collaborated with

a team of international beer experts to create the definitive and

most up-to-date guide to the best beers in the world. This expert

selection covers the extraordinary variety the world’s beers now

have to offer. The core guide covers the brews of 80 countries,

providing up-to-the-minute notes and ratings for over 4300 beers.

With thousands of beers covered, this book encompasses more

familiar established beers as well as exciting new discoveries from

the myriad of craft breweries that are emerging around the world.

GQ Drinks edited by Paul Henderson Mitchell Beazley | November 2014 | £20.00

Today, men are just as likely to know their way around a Martini, a

Manhattan and a Negroni as to be familiar with the beer choice at

their local bar or the wine aisle at the supermarket; cocktails have

become part of our normal drinking repertoire. The anticipated

follow-up to GQ Eats, this ultimate drinks book features over 100

recipes for classic and cutting-edge cocktails, with creations from

mixology legends as well as innovative drinks by new talent from

the world’s best bars. This stylish book also includes essential

know-how on everything from bartender’s tips and techniques to

the must-have glasses and shakers that are worth splashing out

on.

Distilled by Joel Harrison and Neil Ridley Mitchell Beazley| October 2014 | £14.99

Distilled uncovers the best spirits the world has to offer, explaining

what you need to know to appreciate a spirit – its ingredients, its

classic forms, the choices a distiller makes in creating it – with Joel

Harrison and Neil Ridley offering their picks to ‘Drink Before You

Expire’ – the world’s best examples of their type, from gin and

rum to shochu and tequila. Distilled takes you through everything,

from when a gin can be called ‘London Dry’ and when it can’t, to

cocktail bitters. There are plenty of suggestions for how to drink

too, with innovative and classic cocktails and their insider tips on

getting the best out of your spirits.

24

savourIssue 05 2014

Sisters Take the Helm of Hotel in the Heart of Malt Whisky Country

The once-stereotypical image of men in tweed conjured up by the words ‘whisky drinker’ is long gone in the drink’s spiritual home.

There is nothing new about the number of Scottish women who enjoy sipping our national drink, and in recent years there has been a sharp rise in the number of females breaking into a traditionally male-dominated industry by taking on key production and management roles.

But sisters Steph and Lauren Murray have taken their passion for the amber nectar to a whole new level. Along with their parents Michael and Marie, they have turned their backs on the bright lights of Glasgow to buy a hotel in rural Speyside with the aim of turning it into one of the country’s leading destinations for whisky lovers.

Steph (28) and Lauren (23) took over at the helm of The Dowans Hotel in Aberlour last year after being won over by its location in the heart of Scotland’s most famous whisky-producing region. Speyside is home to more whisky distilleries than any other part of the country, including internationally renowned brands such as Glenfiddich, The Glenlivet and The Macallan.

Steph found herself working in the hospitality sector while studying for a degree in international politics and human rights at the University of Glasgow. Unable to

find work after completing her studies, she stayed on at the city’s prestigious One Devonshire Gardens and was offered a role as a supervisor.

“Working in a hotel was never something I thought about as a career option, but I really enjoyed it – even more so when I became part of the management team,” explains Steph.

“It’s probably fair to say that a lot of young people think about jobs in the hospitality industry as something to do to get by while at university. But as time went on I realised how much potential there was to develop professionally and to go beyond traditional student roles like working behind the bar.

“Things changed when my dad took early retirement three years ago. He could see how many hours I was working and while the experience I was getting was invaluable, the monetary benefit didn’t match. He also knew that Lauren, who was studying international hospitality and event management at Edinburgh, was also going to face difficulties getting work when she finished her degree.

“That’s when, as a family, we came up with the idea of buying a hotel that Lauren and I would run together, operating to the high standards that we had both set for ourselves.”

25

savourIssue 05 2014

Lauren adds: “We had always enjoyed family holidays in the Highlands when we were young, so we were naturally drawn here in our search. We wanted to own somewhere we had a real passion for, and which we could share with the local community.

“We fell in love with The Dowans from the moment we saw it. It had a good reputation as being a country sports hotel, but we could see the potential straight away to develop something really special for whisky tourism. We made it our aim from day one to build relationships with the local distilleries.”

Over the past year the family has been carrying out an ambitious refurbishment programme. Many bedrooms and the bistro have been overhauled – a second fine dining restaurant called Spé was opened in February – but one key change is yet to happen.

They plan to remove the bar from its current location in a snug lounge, and move it to another part of the hotel where the already huge collection of single malt and blended whisky from Speyside – and beyond – will be expanded even further.

Visitors and locals alike have been raising a glass to the investment and their commitment to supporting the whisky industry: The hotel was fully booked during the region’s biggest celebration of all things malt – the Spirit of Speyside Whisky Festival.

The Festival, which takes place every year and is next staged from 30 April to 4 May, 2015, is largely regarded as one of the world’s must-do whisky events.

“Whisky is huge here and, on top of developing our skills in hospitality, we’ve also had to learn about the industry so that we can share it and educate our visitors,” says

Lauren. “The Festival is a fantastic event and so popular

– we couldn’t believe it when one of our events sold

out within hours of tickets going on sale. We welcomed

lots of people who are really passionate and enthusiastic

about whisky, and it was an excellent opportunity for us

to test our own knowledge.

“I didn’t think I would have to learn a whole new topic

so soon after my degree, but it shows that there is always

scope to grow and learn new things in every career.

“We’ve currently got 150 malts in our collection and

Steph has prepared her own tasting notes to share with

guests. We’ll be expanding the range when we move the

bar into its new location, so there will be a whole new set

of malts to discover.”

Steph adds: “I think people are genuinely quite intrigued

by the changes that are going on at The Dowans. People

are always surprised when they find out that a hotel built

on country sports and whisky tourism is being run by two

relatively young girls.

“We’ve never been daunted by the scale of what we’ve

taken on, just very excited. I think aiming to achieve

more, being ambitious and never being afraid of a

challenge are key pieces of career advice, regardless of

the industry you work in.”

The Spirit of Speyside Whisky Festival – a key event in

Scotland’s Year of Food and Drink – takes place from

30 April to 4 May, 2015. Tickets will go on sale on the

event website – www.spiritofspeyside.com – at the end

of January. The Festival is also active on social media –

facebook.com/WhiskyFestival and @spirit_speyside on

Twitter.

26

savourIssue 05 2014

Beckham, Beauty and the Blend

Spirits FilledChristmas Crackers

Have you caught sight of the new advert for

the launch of the new grain Scotch whisky

Haig Club, featuring David Beckham?

The advert, which is currently airing, weaves

together a series of journeys made by a

group of friends heading towards an estate

in Glen Affric to share a weekend together,

culminating in them sharing a celebratory

toast.

Filmed over four days, with some shots

taken on Skye, it is directed by British

filmmaker Guy Ritchie who makes a cameo

appearance as a fisherman.

Beckham described Inverness as

“ridiculously beautiful” after he spent time

in the Highlands filming the advert. The

superstar described the city as “one of the

most beautiful places I have ever been.”

Beckham said: “I love the tradition of

toasting; it’s something I always do with

friends and family.

“Working with Guy to bring this tradition to

life in a new way has been so rewarding.

Haig Club has always been about friends

coming together and that’s what we wanted

to reflect with the advert. It’s as simple as

that.”

Ritchie added: “This project had so many

elements that I find appealing; it’s a film

about good mates having an adventure and

coming together for a celebration.

“It’s set in the Highlands of Scotland, one of

the most beautiful places I’ve visited. David

is a good friend and we had a lot of fun

making this together.”

Drinks by the Dram is proud to announce

the pre-release of their award-winning

spirit- and liqueur-filled Christmas Crackers.

Each box contains six handcrafted crackers

filled with 3cl sample ‘drams’ of award-

winning spirits and liqueurs.

Having released a range of spirits-filled

Advent Calendars that take their lucky

owners right through to Christmas Eve,

Drinks by the Dram have now taken aim at

Christmas Day itself, with the ultimate set of

crackers for adults.

Drinks by the Dram’s hand-labelled and

wax-sealed 3cl samples make perfect

Christmas cracker prizes, and they have

selected six outstanding spirits and liqueurs

to be included. Full of delicious award

winners, each cracker also contains tasting

notes, a party hat, a crap joke and, of course,

a *snap*!

Each Christmas Crackers set contains ‘drams’

of Bathtub Gin (World’s Best Compound

Gin – 2014 World Gin Awards), Arran single

malt Scotch whisky (That Boutique-y Whisky

Company), Rumbullion! spiced rum (Gold –

2014 The Rum Masters) and Smooth Ambler

Old Scout 7 Year Old Bourbon (Silver – 2013

San Francisco World Spirits Competition),

as well as Professor Cornelius Ampleforth’s

festive Sloe Gin (Silver – 2013 International

Wine & Spirits Competition) and Cherry

Brandy.

Drinks by the Dram was launched in 2010

as a way of offering whisky enthusiasts and

connoisseurs the opportunity to sample

new releases of single malt Scotch whisky at

a fraction of the cost of purchasing an entire

bottle. From small beginnings, the range

now includes over 2,500 unique spirits, from

rum and whisky, to gin, tequila, mezcal and

more. Spirits lovers can now ‘try before they

buy’ to find the perfect tipple to suit both

their individual tastes and budgets.

27

savourIssue 05 2014

WinesUnc rked

I’m often asked what my favourite wine is

and inevitably list a whole range of styles

as it’s impossible to tie it down to a single

wine. One which would definitely appear

on my desert island rider would be a Bual

Madeira, at least 15 years old but preferably

older. Not only would it drink nicely against

the caramelised tropical fruit compotes that

I would need to create on the palm-fringed,

white sandy beach, but also Madeira, unlike

other wines (including other fortified wines),

keeps for a while once opened without the

need for preservation.

This can be put down to a few reasons. The

grapes are grown on mineral rich volcanic

soils that can impart high levels of acidity

into the wines. The wines are gently heated

to recreate the effect of the long sea

voyages crossing the equator from a time

when barrels of Madeira wine were rolled

from the wine lodge and on to ships to act

as ballast. Rather than spoiling the wine, it

actually had a beneficial effect.

Wines can either be heated gently in large

tanks, a process known as estufagem, to

caramelise the grape sugars, or aged using

the canteiro system, where barrels are stored

in the lofts of the wine lodges; the process is

more gradual, but the results are well worth

the wait.

Madeira is a subtropical Atlantic island with

a pleasant all-year-round climate. Vineyards

are often sited on extremely steep terraces

and are skirted by lavadas, channels that

allow the flow of rainfall to be captured and

irrigate the vineyards, as well as attracting

walkers.

There are a number of styles of Madeira wine.

If it’s labelled as medium dry or medium

sweet, for example, with no mention of the

grape, then the grape behind the wines is a

versatile red variety called Tinta Negra. The

level of sweetness in Madeira depends on

when the fortification with grape spirit takes

place during the fermentation. Sweeter

styles will be fortified earlier before all the

sugar has converted into alcohol.

Wines made from the Sercial grape, grown

on cool high slopes, are the driest styles

– crisp and fresh with citrus notes. Serve

where you would drink a fino sherry – as an

aperitif, with shellfish tapas or olives. Grown

in the north of the island, Verdelho wines

are off-dry and tangy, and a touch richer

than Sercial.

If you get the chance, try a Terrantez; there

is little grown these days. It balances weight

and certain spiciness. Bual (sometimes

labelled ‘Boal’) teeters between sweet and

tangy and savoury, all kept in line with a

racy acidity. It’s medium sweet in style and I

drink it with cheese or desserts that have a

nutty element. The early harvested Malmsey

(Malvasia) is the sweetest of all Madeira

styles – rich, complex, with notes of dried

fruit, it’s the ultimate accompaniment to

mince pies and Christmas cake and pudding.

Wines can also be categorised as being

blended and will show the average age

of the wines in the blend from different

harvests – 5, 10, 15, 20, 30 and more than

40 years old. You will also find dated wines

made from a single grape and single year’s

harvest. Those labelled ‘Colheita’ will be

matured in cask for between 5-18 years and

a vintage wine spends 20 years in cask.

Madeira wines have great aging ability

and I’ve had the privilege of trying some

great aged wines, the oldest being a Bual

well over 100 years old. It’s one of those

wonderful wine experiences that I’ll never

forget.

Carol Brown is an Aberdeen-based member of the Association of Wine Educators and the Circle of Wine

Writers, and runs a range of wine courses and workshops, and hosts corporate wine entertainment events.

www.wineuncorkededucation.co.uk

Mad about Madeira...

28

savourIssue 05 2014

On 25 November VIP package holders enjoyed prime seats and a meet-and-greet with baking heart-throb, Paul Hollywood, before he shared his passion for baking with his Aberdeen audience as part of a national tour. Four randomly selected audience members also got to take part in a baking challenge for the chance to be crowned ‘Star Baker’ by The Great British Bake Off star. Audience members were also given the opportunity to put their own questions to Paul in an open Q & A session.

The show gives a real insight into Paul’s life and career, which has seen him become a household name on television screens around the world. So, how did it all start?

The son of a baker, Paul originally trained as a sculptor before his father persuaded him to join the family business.

He went on to become head baker at some of the most exclusive hotels, including Cliveden, The Chester Grosvenor and The

Dorchester, gaining a reputation as an innovator and one of the country’s finest artisan bakers.

Following his apprenticeship and success at some of the UK’s top hotels, Paul took the opportunity to travel extensively through Cyprus, Egypt and Jordan, visiting remote villages to discover ancient techniques for baking bread and, on one occasion, travelling to a Bedouin encampment and baking in the desert on an upturned cooking pot.

On his return to England, he launched the Paul Hollywood Artisan Bread Company in Aylesham, and he now supplies Waitrose and others with his own branded bread.

Paul began his media career on Carlton Food Network and Taste in 2002 where he co-presented two TV series with James Martin.

During his Aberdeen show Paul will be

Hooray forHollywood

29

savourIssue 05 2014

relating stories from his time as head baker

at these world exclusive hotels, which led to

him becoming one of the country’s finest

artisan bakers, and from his time filming

The Great British Bake Off with his legendary

baking partner, Mary Berry.

Paul said: “When I was approached to do

a tour, I jumped at the chance; I can’t wait

to share my passion for baking with a live

audience.”

In addition to judging on The Great British

Bake Off (for five series) and Junior Bake

Off, Paul has judged celebrity versions for

Sport Relief and Comic Relief, all alongside

Mary Berry. In May 2013 he appeared as a

judge on the new US version of Bake Off,

The American Baking Competition, which

aired on CBS. In 2013, he presented Paul

Hollywood’s Bread on BBC2, in which he

gave advice on recipes for making different

types of bread and pastries, and he also

presented Paul Hollywood’s Pies and Puds,

a cookery television series on BBC One. In

2005, he published a best-selling book 100

Great Breads, which has been published in

ten countries and seven languages, and was

voted ‘Top Bread and Pastry book’ by the

Gourmand Academy. His second book, How

to Bake, published by Bloomsbury, came

out in summer 2012 and quickly went to

the top of the bestseller lists. The book to

accompany his Bread series came out in

February 2013.

Paul makes regular contributions to the

BBC Good Food Magazine, Olive Magazine,

and Waitrose Magazine, and has written for

both The Observer and The Daily Mail. In

September 2013, he became a columnist for

the The Telegraph.

Paul advises and trains at corporate level,

working extensively with the Flour Advisory

Board, as well as hosting and presenting

large demonstrations and award ceremonies.

30

savourIssue 05 2014

Hot Chocolate FigsIngredients

For the figs: • 12 fresh figs • 12 squares dark chocolate, minimum 70% cocoa solids • Chocolate splinters to garnish • 100g brandy • 200ml water • ½ vanilla pod • 200g caster sugar

For the custard: • 220ml whipping cream • 4 cardamom pods, bruised • 45g caster sugar • 3 egg yolks

Method1: Take each fig and using a sharp-pointed knife, make two shallow cuts into either side of the stem at the top and ease open the cuts.

Take a square of chocolate and cut it in half. Press a half piece into each cut in the figs. Be careful not to tear the fig skin as the chocolate goes in, but do push it right in and then close the skin over the gap as much as you can. 2: For the syrup, split the halved vanilla pod and loosen the seeds with the back of the knife. Place the pod and seeds into a pan broad enough for all the figs to sit on the bottom.

Add the sugar, brandy and water to the pan and bring to the simmer. Place the figs into the pan, stalks up, and cook on a gentle simmer for 10-12 minutes. Once the figs are cooked, carefully lift them from the syrup on to a tray and keep them warm. Put the syrup back on a high heat to reduce and thicken to a coating consistency. While the syrup is simmering, start the custard. 3: For the custard, place the cream and bruised cardamom pods into a thick-bottomed pan and place on a medium heat until simmering. Remove to the side of the

stove and leave for five minutes in order to obtain the full flavour of the cardamom. 4: Place the egg yolks and sugar into a stainless steel bowl and beat well with a whisk. The sugar should melt into the egg yolks and produce a thick fluffy mixture. Slowly pour the hot cream on top of the egg and sugar mixture, mixing continually. Return the mixture to a clean pan and place on the heat, stirring carefully with a heatproof spatula, taking care to cover the whole surface area of the pan. Cook the mixture until a light coating consistency is reached

and immediately strain through a coarse sieve into a clean bowl. Do not let the custard boil, otherwise it may split. When strained, cover with cling wrap to avoid a skin forming, and keep warm. The custard can be kept warm for up to three hours in a Thermos flask, preheated with boiling water. 5: To serve the figs, insert some chocolate splinters into the cuts in the figs, pour some of the cardamom

custard onto the centre of each of four warmed plates and set three figs onto each plate. Spoon a little of the reduced syrup over each fig and sprinkle a few more chocolate shavings around.

31

savourIssue 05 2014

A £250,000 refurbishment of The White Horse Inn at Balmedie in Aberdeenshire will lead to the creation of 10 additional jobs. The investment being made by new owner, Euan Bain, represents the first major upgrade of the premises in over 30 years.

The first phase of the refurbishment – an overhaul of the restaurant and bar area – is on course for completion by the end of November. A second programme of external improvements will get underway in the spring, with the final work to upgrade bedrooms expected before summer 2015.

The restaurant is continuing to trade during the refurbishment and has meantime been relocated to the function suite, which is also being upgraded before the end of the year. The additional positions are for kitchen and front of house staff, and will take the number of people employed at The White Horse Inn to 45.

Mr Bain, who bought the premises earlier this year, says: “The investment being made in The White Horse Inn is part of a wider plan to create a destination restaurant that will appeal to food lovers from across the North East.

“When we saw the hotel, we immediately knew that it had real potential to attract significant additional footfall if someone was willing to invest the time and money that could breathe new life into it.

“We currently need to fill 10 additional staff vacancies before the restaurant re-opens at the end of the month. These will be full-time posts for both the kitchen and front of house, and they will be permanent positions beyond the festive period.

“If the business grows in the way we anticipate that it will, we fully expect to recruit further members of staff to add to the team within the first quarter of 2015.”

The restaurant continues to operate during the refurbishment, and bookings are being taken for festive meals and party nights in December. When complete, the restaurant will have a fresh and modern look. The menu will focus on local produce and seasonal ingredients, with provenance being central to the philosophy of the venue.

“We have pulled out all the stops to make sure that the refurbishment will be complete before the festive season and our Christmas menu and party nights get under way in earnest,” says Mr Bain.

“With the improvements to the bar area and with our Christmas and New Year party nights, we want to give the community options to remain locally within the area instead of having to travel into the city.”

In addition to strengthening the hotel’s food and drink offering, Mr Bain also wants to focus on growing business generated from accommodation. The hotel, which has 20 rooms, enjoys good levels of midweek trade, and the aim is to increase the number of guests staying for weekend leisure breaks.

The White Horse Inn is a five-minute drive north from the city of Aberdeen. It is located within the town of Balmedie, which is renowned for its miles of sandy beaches and dunes. For further information about The White Horse Inn, visit www.whitehorseinn.co.uk or telephone (01358) 742404.

Major Refurbishment of The White Horse Inn to Create 10 New Jobs

32

savourIssue 05 2014

Nick Nairn’s Top Ten Tips for a Happy

Christmas1. Give a little pleasure Make someone’s Christmas: Give them a card from me… Nick Nairn E-Gift Cards, instantly downloadable online, cost from £49. They’re valid for cooking classes at Nick’s Cook Schools in Aberdeen and Port of Menteith and the cookshop online and in store. Visit www.nicknairn.com for yours.

2. Time your bird As for cooking Christmas Dinner, here’s my advice: Cook your turkey at 200ºC for 30 minutes, then reduce to 160ºC and cook for 20 minutes per kilo, plus at least 30 minutes resting. For a 5kg bird, it’s 2 hours and 10 minutes cooking.

3. Sprout doubt Shred the little green gems as if they were mini cabbages and stir fry with a little hot oil, butter, pepper, chopped bacon and chestnuts – you can even add cream if you’re feeling ultra-indulgent.

4. Give it a rest Resting the turkey is essential. It will redistribute the juices so the meat is succulent. A big bird can rest happily for up to an hour.

5. Hot potatoes While resting the turkey, whack the roast tatties in at 200ºC on a separate preheated tray with a splash or two of veg oil. They won’t crisp up enough at 160ºC.

6. Exact science To ensure a moist Christmas turkey use a Thermapen digital food thermometer. When

it reads 75ºC at the thickest point – thickest part of breast or thigh, it’s done.

7. Get stuffed Don’t cook stuffing in the bird; by the time it’s cooked through the turkey will be overdone. It’s better cooked in a separate tray at 190ºC for 30 minutes until the top is crispy.

8. Panic attack! If you’ve suddenly remembered Auntie Mabel’s pressie, head to www.nicknairn.com and get a downloadable digital Gift Card for a session at my Cook School, or to spend on kitchen kit. Now relax… Back to the cooking.

9. Gravy business For a silky gravy, remove the turkey from the roasting tin to rest on a warm serving plate. Remove and discard (not in the sink!) any obvious fat from the roasting tin with a large spoon. Place the tin on a medium hot hob and scrape up the nice crusty bits from the base as it begins to bubble. Whisk in a tablespoon of flour to thicken, then add a splash of wine, reduce and add stock, stirring until thickened. Season to taste, strain and serve in a heated jug.

10. Clootie Christmas Ring the changes with a proper Scottish fruit pud instead of Christmas pud this year. Find my Clootie Dumpling recipe (complete with a dram) here: http://bit.ly/NNClootieDumpling

Visit www.nicknairn.com for instantly downloadable Gift Cards, classes, recipes and more.

33

savourIssue 05 2014

34

savourIssue 05 2014

35

savourIssue 05 2014

A Visitor’s Guideto Scottish Delicacies

It’s that time of year when friends and family return home for a Scottish festive celebration. Many may be coming to visit for the first time, eager to taste our local traditional dishes – which are not just haggis and deep-fried Mars Bars!

Make sure that they try at least one of these local delicacies on their next trip to Scotland; they are all delicious.

STOVIESThis is a real ‘winter warmer’ stew that was traditionally

made from the leftovers of a Sunday roast dinner, but

you’ll find it very easy to make from scratch. Its main

ingredients are always meat (usually chicken, beef or

lamb), onions and potatoes, and some versions include

diced-up carrot or swede. Often it is served up with

oatcakes and pickled beetroot on the side.

It’s hearty, warming and a great antidote to the often

cold, wet and windy Scottish weather! If you really love

it, it’s also really easy to recreate when you get home.

LORNE SAUSAGEFor very obvious reasons, which will be apparent as

soon as you come across this local dish, Lorne sausage

is sometimes referred to as sliced or square sausage.

It’s made from either pork or beef sausage meat and

rusk, then set into a square shape and thinly sliced into

portions. Served grilled or fried, it is usually eaten in

the morning as part of a full Scottish breakfast or in

a soft roll.

There are two theories as to how the name came about:

It’s either because it originates from the town of Lorne

in the county of Argyll and Bute; or it was named for

Tommy Lorne, a Scottish music hall comedian of the

1920s.

CRANACHANThis simple but completely scrumptious dessert is

made from fresh raspberries, whipped cream, heather

honey and toasted Scottish oats. For an added punch, a

dram of whisky is often added too. Traditionally, it was

made with crowdie (a cream cheese) rather than, or

sometimes as well as, cream. The dish has been made

famous by celebrity chefs, such as Delia Smith and Nigel

Slater, who’ve come up with their own recipes of how

this traditional dish should be prepared and served,

while both Jamie Oliver and Heston Blumenthal have

created cranachan sundae recipes.

CLOOTIE DUMPLINGThis classic Scottish dessert is a rich fruit pudding

made with flour, breadcrumbs, dried fruit (sultanas

and currants), suet, sugar and spices, with some milk

and sometimes golden syrup to bind it. It’s best served

with a drizzle of cream and a dram of whisky. To make

it, all of the ingredients are mixed into a dough then

wrapped up in a floured cloth, placed in a large pan

of boiling water and simmered for a couple of hours

before being lifted out and dried before the fire or in

an oven. Different versions can be found all around

Scotland, and in North Fife and Dundee you’re likely to

find them made without breadcrumbs but with treacle

added.

BRIDIEScotland’s fast food, a bridie is a type of meat pastry

or pie, originally from the town of Forfar. The filling is

made from minced beef, onions and seasoning. Forfar

bakers traditionally use shortcrust pastry, but similar

products with flaky or puff pastry can also be found.

Of course, you should also sample the local whisky! And

buy some to take home.

36

savourIssue 05 2014

37

savourIssue 05 2014

Sea-sonal Dishes fromThe Ship Inn at Stonehaven

Another festive season, another turkey with

all the trimmings. Between peeling potatoes,

boiling sprouts and basting the turkey, it is

estimated that Britons spend over eight

hours preparing and cooking the Christmas

lunch – only for it to be eaten in a little

under 60 minutes*.

As someone who cooks for dozens of diners

every day, Fallon Oliveira, head chef of The

Ship Inn, Stonehaven, knows only too well

what a time-consuming process a grand

affair like the traditional turkey lunch can be.

So instead of slaving over a hot stove for

hours – and most of the afternoon washing

up plates and scrubbing pots, why not

follow her lead by going cold turkey on

turkey this festive season?

Fallon explains: “We are lucky to have some

of the best seafood anywhere in the UK right

here on our doorstep and, if I am putting

together a festive menu, fish will always

feature on it. We’re incredibly busy with pre-

Christmas lunch and dinner at The Ship Inn

and, while turkey is very popular, fish dishes

are flying out of the kitchen too.

“Just because it is traditional to have turkey,

there are no rules that state that you cannot

have fish as a main course instead. Not only

does fresh fish taste incredible, it is quick

and easy to cook, giving you more time to

relax and enjoy Christmas Day.

“Seafood is a real speciality at The Ship Inn,

with everything from succulent sea bass to

the more humble haddock on the menu. If

you are looking for inspiration for Christmas

dinner, then you will certainly find some

ideas to whet the appetite of your Christmas

guests here.”

The Ship Inn dates back to 1771, and

overlooks the picturesque harbour. The

Captain’s Table restaurant is open for lunch

and dinner. More information is available at

www.shipinnstonehaven.com

38

savourIssue 05 2014

What better place to pick up your copy of SAVOUR than in

the continental coffee house atmosphere of Caffè Nero. Like

your favourite foodie magazine it’s inviting, friendly and has a

buzz about it. Every Nero feels warm and makes people feel

comfortable whether meeting friends, working, grabbing a bite to

eat or just relaxing in some calm and solace whilst reading your

latest copy. With three cosy Neros in Union Street in the heart of

the city there’s no better place to enjoy a hot, strong and delicious

coffee. The food is inspired too with classic Italian recipes and a

dedicated in-house food team endlessly working on interesting

new products and ideas unique to Caffè Nero.

You’ll leave with fond memories of that unforgettable aroma

and that delicious taste but don’t forget to take your own

complimentary copy of SAVOUR with you!

39

savourIssue 05 2014

The Cock & Bull at Balmedie has always had a reputation for delicious innovative food, but the team have taken their inventive talents to a new level. They are introducing ‘The Last Supper’, a brilliant concept when the talented chefs will create a fabulous dinner based on favourite dishes submitted on their website. It can be a much-loved childhood meal, a nostalgic school dinner or even your reliable hangover dish. The team will then select their favourite three courses, plus an accompanying drink, and serve them at a special ‘Last Supper’ dinner. At only £35 per head (£25 if your dish is selected), it’s a great way to get together with family and friends. Also, to add further excitement to the evening, you won’t know what you are going to be

served until you get there. So, if you had one ‘Last Supper’ what would it be and will yours be selected? Find out when the next ‘Supper’ is and book a table at http://thecockandbull.co.uk/last-supper

You’ll not be surprised to know this award-winning restaurant is almost fully booked for Christmas Day, but there is still time to book your corporate party with an amazing festive menu running throughout December. Leave the woes of work behind and enjoy an afternoon of food and fun.

Don your kilt, have a few drams and see the New Year in at The Cock & Bull, where you can tuck into a scrumptious meal and dance into the wee small hours with live music. Have a toast

with the piper at the bells and celebrate Hogmanay as only we Scots can do. Your amazing seven-course dinner will include wee nibbles, old fashioned country pâté, Scottish shellfish ragout, smoked haddock soup, treacle-cured fillet of beef or slow-roasted leg of lamb, a feast of chocolate and tea or coffee with fudge. What a way to see the old year out and a new year begin. Book now at http://thecockandbull.co.uk/festive-season/the-festive season

Looking for an original Christmas gift? A Cock & Bull Gift Voucher is the answer. Available for values starting at £25, they can be spent in the bar, restaurant or in the neighbouring Blairton Bed and Breakfast. They also have Afternoon Tea vouchers available.

Surprise Supper and Hogmanay Hoots

WWW.COCKANDBULL.COM

40

savourIssue 05 2014

Winter Menu Brings Seasonal Success

If the prospect of endless turkey dishes in

the weeks ahead doesn’t exactly set your

taste buds tingling, seek refuge in one of

Aberdeen’s best eateries. The Merchant

Bistro in Correction Wynd is a delight for

discerning palates and the perfect venue

for lunch or dinner, or simply to escape

the hubbub of city life. Owner Julie and her

superb head chef, Kelly Greenhowe, have

created a stunning winter menu, retaining

some old favourites and introducing some

amazing new dishes. By popular demand

the Slider Board – steak burger, cheddar,

tomato relish; crab burger, harissa, avocado;

pork and apple burger, beetroot chutney;

rooster chips, pickles and slaw – remains as

does the Deeside Laf Beer Battered Sea Bass

and the Merchant Mac. However, jostling for

your attention on the new menu are some

superb new tastes. Try the Venison and

Deeside Talorcan “Pie” with heritage potato,

carrot, turnip and leek, or the ‘Cock-a-Leekie’,

chicken with charred leek, rice, prune,

parsley, brith and kale. For fish aficionados

there’s mouth-watering Cod with Black

Pudding, parsnip, potato and kale, and there

is always something exciting for those with

food allergies and intolerances. Remember

too you can have exclusive use of the Bistro

for birthdays, weddings, family celebrations

or business events.

This is one of the Merchant Quarter’s most

stylish restaurants, with amazing food that is

also very kind to your wallet. The service is

superb and it’s clear Julie is very passionate

about food. If you want to really impress

your guests, book a table at The Merchant

Bistro now. www.merchantbistro.com

41

savourIssue 05 2014

Entrants in 14 different categories face an

anxious wait until January 30 next year to

learn if they will be crowned winners in the

Aberdeen City and Shire Tourism Awards

(ACSTA).

The awards scheme, which is organised

by the Aberdeen City and Shire Hotels’

Association (ACSHA), took place for the first

time earlier this year.

Two additional categories were introduced

and the sections are now aligned with the

national VisitScotland-backed scheme, The

Scottish Thistle Awards. It is intended that

ACSTA will be adopted as the regional final

for the Scottish Thistle Awards by 2016.

ACSTA chairman, Iain Watson, said: “From

the moment we opened for entries in July,

there was a steady stream of nominations

coming in. Overall we were 25 per cent

up on the number of nominations received

last year and, while we have two additional

categories, the increase was seen across

the board. It is clear that operators across

the city and shire have been inspired by

the 2014 event and recognise that this

is an opportunity for them to shine.”

Contenders in one of the most hotly

contended categories – Most Hospitable

Hotel – are this year’s winner Meldrum

House, Oldmeldrum; Holiday Inn West

Aberdeen; and Tor-na-Coille, Banchory.

The Mercure Aberdeen Ardoe House Hotel

and Spa has gained a finalist position

within the Best Restaurant Experience and

the Our Warmest Welcome categories in

the awards.

General manager of Ardoe, Peter Sangster

(pictured), said: “We are delighted to be

shortlisted as finalists in not one, but two

fantastic awards categories, both of which

credit the hotel in a number of ways,

from our dining experience to the warm

welcome from our staff.”

Calum Richardson from The Bay Fish and

Chips in Stonehaven, who was a finalist

in the Ambassador category in 2014,

has once again made the shortlist, along

with tour guide Pam Wells and Stephen

Gow, the general manager of the Thistle

hotel group in Scotland. Final judging will

take place before the end of the year and

winners will be announced at a ceremony

at Ardoe House Hotel and Spa in Aberdeen

on January 30, 2015. Host for the evening

will be broadcaster Tam Cowan. Further

information about the awards is available

at www.acsta.co.uk

Our Warmest Welcome

Holiday Inn Aberdeen West

The Jays Guest House, Aberdeen

Ardoe House Hotel and Spa, Aberdeen

Best Informal Eating Experience

The Bay Fish and Chips, Stonehaven

Buchanan Foods Ltd, Banchory

The Mariner Hotel Ltd, Aberdeen

Best Event or Festival

Run Balmoral

Bon Accord Steam Engine Club

Wild in Art for Wild Dolphins

Green Tourism

Holiday Inn Express City Centre, Aberdeen

The Bay Fish and Chips

Mains of Scotstown, Aberdeen

Creative Ambition

Glen Tanar Estate, Aboyne

Thistle Aberdeen Airport Hotel

Visit Royal Deeside

Friendliest Pub/Bar

Orchid, Aberdeen

The New Inn, Aberchirder

The Illicit Still, Aberdeen

Best Visitor Attraction

Glen Garioch Distillery, Oldmeldrum

World Horse Welfare, Aboyne

GlenDronach Distillery, near Huntly

Most Hospitable Guest House

Durn House, Portsoy

Struan Hall Guest House, Aboyne

Glendavan House, Aboyne

Best Restaurant Experience

Ardoe House Hotel and Spa

Banchory Lodge Hotel

Atlantis Restaurant, Aberdeen

Best Holiday Accommodation

Ythan Valley Campsite and Little Lodge

High Seas Hobbits, Rosehearty

Community Involvement Award

Aberdeen Performing Arts

Marriott, Aberdeen

Park Inn by Radisson, Aberdeen

Most Hospitable Hotel

Meldrum House Country Hotel

Oldmeldrum

Holiday Inn Aberdeen West

Tor-na-Coille Hotel, Banchory

Young Ambassador

Stuart McPhee, Harding Ltd, Aberdeen

Adelle Chessor, VisitAberdeen

Craig McDonald, Glen Tanar Estate

Ambassador

Calum Richardson, The Bay Fish and Chips

Pam Wells, Pam Wells Ltd, Stephen Gow,

Thistle Aberdeen Altens Hotel

The shortlisted nominees in all categories are:

Anxious Wait for Aberdeen City and Shire Tourism Awards Finalists

42

savourIssue 05 2014

NewsBites...

Squeezy Cheese Receives a Festive

Makeover

This November, the nation’s favourite

squeezy cheese, Primula, will be launching

limited edition festive tubes across Tesco,

Sainsbury’s, ASDA and Morrison’s, which

highlight the charity work of Primula,

who help to spread Christmas cheer by

donating profits to worthy causes.

A family favourite at Christmas time, the

new Primula packs offer classic Christmas

canapé recipes, such as vol-au-vents and

blinis, all designed to create a fantastic

festive feast and perfect inspiration for

when unexpected guests arrive.

As Christmas is a time for giving, the packs

also highlight that Primula profits go to

charities here and abroad thanks to the

unique not-for-profit status of the Kavli

Group, which produces Primula.

Tasty Jobs, a new training programme designed to encourage more Aberdeen job hunters to consider working in the local food industry, has seen its first ‘graduates’ land full-time jobs with two leading food companies.

The scheme, run in conjunction with the Scotland Food & Drink Skills Academy, DWP Jobcentre and Skills Development Scotland, is designed to assist food businesses across Scotland to raise the profile of job opportunities in food and drink production among their local communities and ensure local people have the skills they need to apply for vacancies.

Aberdeen job hunter Sarah Dunbar, 24, and 58-year-old John Findlay of Bucksburn are now celebrating new full-time roles following completion of the special Tasty Jobs training scheme run at Inverurie meat business, Scotbeef (Inverurie) Limited, while 34-year-old William Doran has secured a full-time job at leading Aberdeen seafood business, Joseph Robertson.

Committing to continue to use the scheme, Gerald Bessant, group

human resources manager at Scotbeef (Inverurie) Limited, said relatively low unemployment in Aberdeen coupled with attractive wages in oil industry-related businesses had seen local food production businesses relying heavily on workers from overseas.

“More than 80 per cent of our staff are now from Eastern Europe,” said Mr Bessant. “They are excellent workers – but as an Aberdeenshire company, we would like to provide opportunities for more people from the community in which we are based.”

Sarah Robertson, HR manager at Joseph Robertson, said both her company and Scotbeef (Inverurie) Limited were rooted in the local community, having both been established in Aberdeen over 100 years ago. “It has been wonderful to utilise the local community and have local talent working within the company. We have many job opportunities and look to offer long and stable careers within the food industry, which would be achieved through our extensive training and development programme.”

Trio Land Tasty New Jobs

43

savourIssue 05 2014

Hoteliers from across Aberdeen joined

forces to raise funds for the Teenage Cancer

Trust. General managers from a number

of hotels in the Aberdeen City and Shire

Hotels’ Association (ACSHA) have taken to

the streets in their first ever Workathon,

a sponsored walk between a number of

the city’s hotels. At each hotel, the walkers

completed a hotel-based challenge before

moving on to their next destination.

The charity challenge will support an

organisation close to the hoteliers’ hearts,

the Teenage Cancer Trust, which has aided

Abigail Cox (19), the daughter of hotelier

Gary Cox, in recent months.

Chris McGuinness, chairman of ACSHA,

says: “At each hotel we visited, we

undertook a different hotel-related

challenge. From making beds and cleaning

windows to serving coffee and setting

up function rooms, the Workathon saw

general managers from hotels across the

region getting stuck in to all the important

tasks that keep a hotel running smoothly.

“We have all worked our way up through

the hotel business, so the Workathon has

seen us returning to the first ever jobs we

held in the industry, all in the name of a

fantastic cause.”

The Workathon – which covered a 12-mile

route through the city – forms part of

ACSHA’s £20,000 fundraising pledge for the

Teenage Cancer Trust, inspired by Abigail

Cox, the daughter of Aberdeen hotelier

Gary Cox, who is currently undergoing

treatment for Ewing’s sarcoma.

ACSHA has 45 member hotels across

the region, and each is being asked to

raise at least £450 towards the target.

Teenage Cancer Trust pin badges are

being sold at receptions, and an online

fundraising page has been set up at:

www.virginmoneygiving.com/team/

aberdeenhotelsassociation

Mr Cox, who runs the Northern Hotel in

Aberdeen as well as Edwards nightclub in

Inverurie, says: “Abigail is responding well

to the treatment, which has undoubtedly

been aided by the work of the Teenage

Cancer Trust. We are incredibly grateful for

all the support and help they have offered

Abigail over these difficult months.”

Last year in our festive issue, we

featured the Michie family from

Lochend of Barra farm, near Inverurie.

They breed the very finest, happy,

healthy free-range bronze turkeys,

the richest and most flavoursome

birds you’ll ever taste. Craig asked

me to remind readers they are now

taking orders for this year and, with

glowing testimonials from John

Cooper at Formartine’s, Gadie’s, Nick

Nairn and the head chef at Meldrum

House, you’ll be in good company.

They also have two lines of cranberry

sauce, one normal and one organic,

which have been specially made

by Huntly Herbs and Isabella’s to

accompany the rich flavour of the

turkey.

Our own Carol Brown (Wine

Uncorked) has also agreed to

provide a wine recommendation to

accompany the turkey.

Check out the birds and place your

order at www.barrabronzes.com

Hotels’ Association Members Work Across City for Teenage Cancer Trust

For the Best Bird, Book a

‘Barra’!

44

savourIssue 05 2014

David Blossoms at the Thistle

He’s cooked for Girls Aloud, John Denver

and Nick Faldo in some of the most

exclusive restaurants in the country, but

David Proctor says the work he is most

proud of during his 34-year career has

been as the head chef at Thistle Aberdeen

Altens Hotel.

For the past two years David has lead the

14-strong team of chefs at the hotel, but

had it not been for a technicality, he could

have had an entirely different career.

David explains: “When I was growing up,

I really wanted to be a policeman, but

they wouldn’t let me join because I was

too small.

“My aunt and uncle owned a hotel when

I was growing up, and every weekend I

would help out around the place. One

weekend the chef didn’t turn up and my

aunt asked me if I could step in and help.

I wasn’t cooking anything difficult, just

really simple things to start with, but took

to it like a duck to water.”

David, originally from South Shields,

studied at the local college, where he

learnt the skill set of a professional chef,

and it would be this training that would

see him go on to work in some of the UK’s

top restaurants.

“I worked in London at the Royal Garden

for just under a year, and then went on to

St Andrews Old Course, where I stayed for

two years.

“I wanted to do something a bit different

and took up a role as a lecturer at Dundee

College. It was while I was working there

that I was approached by Thistle area

general manager Stephen Gow to come

and work at the Thistle Aberdeen Altens

Hotel, where I’ve been for the past two

years.”

The 53-year-old chef, who cites Gordon

Ramsay as his professional inspiration,

begins work at 10 a.m. every morning, and

can serve up to 170 dinners every night.

“The team works really hard to make sure

45

savourIssue 05 2014

we deliver fantastic-tasting food. We’re

particularly proud of our grill menu – our

Aberdeen Angus steak is a guest favourite.”

The festive season is one of the busiest

times of the year for David and his team,

with a non-stop programme of pre-

Christmas dinners, party nights, festive

menus and Hogmanay revelry.

During the Christmas and New Year period,

the kitchen team will cook over one tonne

of turkey and ham to serve to over 2,000

guests. As anyone who has slaved over

the Christmas dinner will know, getting

the turkey cooked to perfection can be

something of a balancing act.

But David has a secret way of getting his

turkey just right. He explains: “Cover the

top of the turkey with smoked bacon,

pepper first, chop rosemary and thyme

and cover it in that, and then wrap it in

tinfoil.

“Due to the fact that we cook quite big

turkeys, we cook the meat for an hour and

a half, and then take the tinfoil off and

cook for a further hour without the foil.

“The most important piece of advice that

I can give, however, is to check the bird is

properly cooked. If the juices run clear, this

is an indication that the turkey is cooked

thoroughly.”

As a head chef, enjoying a leisurely

Christmas Day off is something of a

rarity. In fact, he was able to take his first

Christmas Day off in 25 years in 2013 –

and spent it in his kitchen at home instead.

Cooking Christmas dinner can be a

stressful experience for some, but David

has some simple advice. “Relax and enjoy

it,” he says. “The key is planning, working

out all your timings and make a timetable

so that everything will be ready at a similar

time for when you’re ready to eat. Try to

do this planning before Christmas Day to

avoid stress.

“Or, of course, you could just arrange

for the entire family to eat out and let

someone else take care of all the cooking.

The best thing about that is that there is

no washing up afterwards either.”

46

savourIssue 05 2014

Crispy Skin Chicken and Tiger Prawns

Ingredients• 2 chicken breasts with skin • 8 tiger prawns • 1 chilli • 1 onion • 1 bunch spring onion • 1 red pepper • 1 fresh ginger (10g)

• 1 small packet coriander • 100g egg noodles • Sweet soy sauce • Honey

Method1: Heat the frying pan with a little oil, place the chicken breasts in skin side down, and season. When golden brown, remove and

place on an oven tray, skin side up. 2: Put into a preheated oven (225ºC) for 25-30 minutes. 3: Grate the ginger, and slice the chilli,

onion, spring onions and red pepper. 4: Quickly cook in a wok and add the prawns after two minutes, then season. 5: Plunge the

noodles into boiling water until cooked. 6: Add sweet soy sauce and two spoons of honey into the wok and reduce a little. 7: Spoon

noodles into a bowl, take the chicken from the oven and let it rest for a little while, then slice, placing on top of the noodles. Chop

the coriander and sprinkle.

47

savourIssue 05 2014

48

savourIssue 05 2014

The food and drink industry in the Highlands and Islands and within the Cairngorms National Park area has honoured this year’s outstanding crop of businesses at its 10th annual awards dinner in Inverness.

The top honour of the evening – Ambassador of the Year Award – was presented to Shirley Spear, founder and director of Skye’s Michelin-star restaurant The Three Chimneys and the House Over-By, exactly 30 years and a week since the restaurant opened its doors to the public.

And Kiltarlity-based Highland Cordials walked away with the prestigious Judges’ Award for their impressive-tasting Nettle & Ginger Cordial.

Other winners of a Highlands & Islands Food & Drink award included Annie Body of Annie’s Bakery in Canisbay for Young Shining Star Award; Cairngorm Brewery for Best Drink Award; Dalwhinnie Distillery for Best Marketing Initiative Award; Isle of Skye Sea Salt Company picked up the Environment Award; The Scottish Goat Meat Company in Keith won the Healthier Food and Drink Award; Loch Duart Ltd in Scourie were winners of the Export Award; Avoch-based FAO27 for Food & Drink Business Growth Award; Skye Farm Shop won Independent Food & Drink Retailer of the Year; Orkney Buffalo won the New Business Award; and Black Isle Dairy at Daviot picked up the New Product Award for its range of dairy ice cream.

The hotly contested Restaurant of the Year Award was presented to Station Road at The Lovat, Loch Ness in Fort Augustus, and the Best Eatery Award went to Frankie’s Fish & Chips in Shetland.

Shirley Spear, Ambassador of the Year, was a popular winner. She said: “I am inordinately proud of all that my husband Eddie and I have achieved, developed and sustained over the past 30 years, despite our remote location and sometimes inhospitable circumstances.

“Further than this, it is hard to express the more discreet pride I

take in knowing what we achieved in Skye helped to inspire other

chefs, hoteliers and restaurateurs, tourism operators and all related

businesses and – yes! – even the Scottish Government, that taking

more pride in our very special food and drink culture was the right

way forward for Scotland as a nation.”

The Highlands & Islands Food & Drink Awards are supported by

The Highlands & Islands Food & Drink Forum and Highlands and

Islands Enterprise (HIE), and are the region’s most prestigious food

and drink awards, celebrating excellence and achievement in the

industry and recognising industry players at the top of their game.

Gordon & MacPhail was title sponsor for a second year. Stephen

Rankin, the company’s director of UK Sales and chair of the Awards’

judging panel, said: “We’re delighted to be involved in the awards

again this year. I’ve been hugely impressed by the standard of

the entries. Their quality and diversity acts as a showcase for the

Highlands and Islands – a region rightly renowned for the quality

of its produce.”

The evening’s menu featured a selection of top class Scottish

produce, including food from a range of quality regional producers

and suppliers.

Chris Taylor, head of tourism, Food & Drink at Highlands

and Islands Enterprise (HIE), said: “Once again, food and drink

businesses from across the Highlands and Islands have risen to the

challenge and ensured the reputation of our produce and natural

larder as amongst the best in the world.

“2014, the Year of Homecoming, has been fantastic for our

businesses and many have benefited from the increased exposure

around the world at events such as the Ryder Cup. This is set to

continue with the Year of Food and Drink in 2015.”

For more information about the awards and winners, visit

www.hifoodanddrinkawards.co.uk.

Cream of the Crop Announced at Highlands & Islands Food & Drink Awards

49

savourIssue 05 2014

50

savourIssue 05 2014

Nigella’s Devil’sFood Cake

Ingredients• 50g best-quality cocoa powder, sifted • 100g dark muscovado sugar • 250ml boiling water • 125g soft unsalted butter, plus

some for greasing • 150g caster sugar • 225g plain flour • ½ tsp baking powder • ½ tsp bicarbonate of soda • 2 tsp vanilla

extract • 2 free-range eggs For the frosting: • 125ml water • 30g dark muscovado sugar • 175g unsalted butter, cubed • 300g

best-quality dark chocolate, finely chopped

Method1: Preheat the oven to 180ºC. Line the bottoms of two 20cm sandwich tins with baking parchment and butter the sides. 2: Put the

cocoa and the dark muscovado sugar into a large bowl, and pour in the boiling water. Whisk to mix, then set aside.

3: Cream the butter and caster sugar together in a separate bowl, beating well until pale and fluffy. 4: Stir the flour, baking powder

and bicarbonate of soda together in another bowl and set aside for a moment. 5: Dribble the vanilla extract into the creamed butter

and sugar – mixing all the while – then crack in one egg, quickly followed by a scoop of the flour mixture, then the second egg.

Keep mixing after each addition. 6: Incorporate the rest of the flour mixture little by little, then finally mix and fold in the cocoa

mixture, scraping the bowl well with a spatula. 7: Divide this fabulously chocolatey batter between the two prepared tins and put in

the oven for about 30 minutes, or until a cake tester comes out clean. Take the tins out and leave them on a wire rack for five to ten

minutes, then turn the cakes out and set aside to cool. 8: As soon as the cakes are in the oven, get started on your frosting. Put the

water, muscovado sugar and butter into a pan over a low heat until melted. 9: Set one of the cooled cakes, with its top side facing

downwards, onto a cake stand or plate, and spread with about one-third of the frosting. Top that with the second cake, regular way

up, and spread the remaining frosting over the top and sides, swirling away with your spatula.

51

savourIssue 05 2014

Spiced Cauliflower SteakAlistair Bryson, Head Chef at the Atholl Arms Hotel

Ingredients• ½ tsp each cumin seeds, coriander seeds and fennel seeds (whole spices) • ½ tsp each turmeric, ground cumin and ground

coriander (ground seeds) • Good quality olive oil • 1 large cauliflower • Salt • 200g couscous • Small amount of vegetable

stock • 1 tsp harissa paste • Handful freshly chopped parsley and coriander

Method1: Grind whole spices in a pestle and mortar. Lightly fry in a dry pan. 2: In the same pan mix in the ground spices with a little olive

oil until a paste is formed. 3: Cover and leave in the fridge for 24 hours. 4: Remove the outer leaves from the cauliflower, cut into

four even slices, and season each with salt if desired. 5: Fry in a tiny bit of oil on both sides until lightly browned (about 5-8 minutes

each side). 6: Place in a hot oven (190ºC) for 10 minutes. Towards the end of this time, remove and brush with the spice mixture.

Place back in the oven until golden on one side (about 12 minutes). The temperature can be reduced slightly if necessary.

7: While the cauliflower is in the oven, heat the vegetable stock, and mix the couscous with the harissa paste in a bowl. Once the

stock is boiling, add the couscous mixture, turn off the heat, cover and let the mixture stand for five minutes.

8: Stir the couscous, making sure the harissa paste is well mixed; add the fresh herbs.

9: Assemble on a plate as in the picture. Serve with seasoned vegetables and a nice glass of white wine. Enjoy!

52

savourIssue 05 2014

Unique Destination with

Stunning SceneryThe four-star Lodge on Loch Lomond Hotel stands on a quiet sandy cove amid some of Scotland’s most stunning scenery.

With panoramic views of the loch and mountains, it offers a warm, relaxing atmosphere, delicious modern cuisine from the award-winning two-AA-rosette restaurant Colquhoun’s, stunning accommodation and a luxury health suite with spa and swimming pool. This loch-side retreat has attracted two former US presidents and has a superb range of accommodation, from rooms with en-suite saunas and private balconies overlooking the loch or towards the village of Luss, to the very contemporary accommodation in the Munro Lodge. The Cuillin Suites are two-bedroom guest apartments, complete with 42” plasma television screens, surround sound Linn speakers and DVD players, living flame fires, temperature-controlled baths and massaging showers.

Colquhoun’s innovative menu blends traditional and contemporary cuisine using the finest and freshest local produce. With uninterrupted views from the restaurant you can sit back and take in the wonderful views of the loch and Ben

Lomond, while the relaxed buzz of family and friends enjoying a meal creates a lively, warm ambience in the restaurant. The menu is inspired by the fantastic local ingredients available in Scotland’s larder. Whether it’s for lunch, dinner or a light meal by the loch, this is a very special place to eat.

Guests can unwind in the health suite, Amber Spa, which features a 16-metre swimming pool, jacuzzi, steam room, sauna and laconium. And the hotel is perfectly located to explore some of the most stunning parts of Scotland, from city to the Highlands, with easy access to Glasgow, Oban, Inveraray and the rugged west coast.

The Lodge on the Loch Lomond Hotel truly is a unique destination, which offers all the intimacy, warmth, charm and atmosphere that only a family-run hotel could.

Sit back and take in the fabulous panoramic views of the Loch and Ben Lomond, while the wonderful menu is inspired by the fantastic local produce we have available from Scotland’s larder! So join us soon for lunch, dinner or a light meal/snack by the Loch.

53

savourIssue 05 2014

Brilliant Inn on the Bonnie Banks

Looking for value for money and comfortable accommodation in Loch Lomond? Then the Tullie Inn, Balloch is what you are looking for! This unique hostelry offers all the comfort and convenience of a hotel, but with the more traditional welcome of an inn or pub with accommodation.

You can relax and enjoy your stay in one of the 13 comfortable and welcoming bedrooms, one of which is a large family suite with double bedroom, en-suite bathroom and adjoining room with two single beds. All the bedrooms are located on the upper floor, above the popular lounge bar and restaurant, and are bright, fresh and tastefully decorated. They are fully fitted with all the modern conveniences (including TV, hairdryer and tea/coffee making facilities).

After a great night’s sleep, you can start each morning with a hearty Scottish Breakfast (or continental style if you prefer!). Afterwards, why not take a brisk stroll along the lochside to work off your breakfast… A great way to start the day!

The ‘Tullie’ is also a great place to eat. With a stunning glasshouse to the front of the building

and a Cape Cod nautical-themed interior, inspired by the beauty of Loch Lomond and the surrounding Scottish countryside, the Tullie Inn is the perfect location for watching the world go by! They serve a delicious breakfast menu every day. Or if you are more a coffee-and-cake person, they serve freshly ground coffee with a fantastic selection of cakes and scones from the coffee bar – all baked on the premises.

They‘ve added a host of new dishes along with some traditional favourites. Watching the waistline? They’ve included a selection of plates under 500 calories – all of the taste with none of the guilt! The perfect excuse for treating yourself to one of their new desserts! It’s perhaps a little chilly at this time of year but during the summer months their Garden Menu is served to you from the outdoor Bar Grill located at the left-hand side of the Tullie building entrance.

Enjoy a glass of wine from their great selection of classic wines from around the world – all available by the glass or bottle! Fancy something a little bit special? Shaken or stirred, they’ve got the perfect cocktail treat!

54

savourIssue 05 2014

EggnogIngredients

• 1140ml whole milk • 6 free-range eggs • 50g caster sugar • 1 vanilla pod, split • 20 fresh cherries, stones removed and

halved • 200ml brandy • cocoa powder, for dusting

Method1: Place the milk, eggs, sugar and vanilla pod in a medium pan and heat gently, without boiling, until the mixture thickens enough

to coat the back of a spoon. 2: The eggnog can be chilled at this stage or served hot. 3: To serve, scatter the cherries in the bottom

of each serving glass. Divide the brandy between the glasses and pour the eggnog over. Dust with cocoa powder and serve.

55

savourIssue 05 2014