Sea-Change and Cambria

Here follows the log of the first sailing by the Cambria following

her restoration. She ceased trading under sail in 1970 when she

was sold to the Maritime Trust. Eventually sold to the Cambria

Trust, she was rebuilt by a team led by Tim Goldsack at

Faversham and launched in March 2011.

Some of Tim’s team including the lovely…………………..Ben, an expert in biscuit eating.

Sea-Change chartered Cambria for the month of July with a team

of four young people from Maldon (Dean Conway, Dan Gardner,

Luke Crawley and Haydn Reeves) and staff of Richard Titchener,

Hilary Halajko and Richard Robinson known as Stretch.

The first week was planned to be assistance with the fit-out

and rigging and Luke and Haydn joined in the second week.

Week 1

Week one down below On deck

On the way to Faversham we went to Gravesend, we went in the tourist info to look at camp sites as we lads

were going to stay ashore when the PLA came aboard for the Thames Match. Asked if there was any place to

stay in Gravesend, tourist info said “why would anyone want to stay at Gravesend for the week end”!! We got

to Faversham; it was a very hot day! Went to have some lunch and looked around the local area to find

important information such as swimming pool time table! We wanted to wait for the people who were

working on Cambria to finish for the day as we didn’t want to get in their way with our mountains of gear and

food for the month. When we got on to the Cambria there was no sink, no bathroom and no running water so

we had to use the toilets on the quay and cart all our water in a container. We had to have our tea but

washing became a lower priority.

Tea and a roll up.

We sorted out our berths and had a meal before spending our first night aboard. The next day, Nos came at

six in the morning to carry on rigging waking everybody up with his banging. For the next few days it seemed

like chaos, the mizzen mast and bow sprit were on deck waiting to be dressed and heaved up and there

seemed so much to do. It was hot, very hot so on a couple of evenings we went to the pool. Richard went back

to Maldon and managed to get a kedge anchor and the topsail arrived on Wednesday about 5 pm, too late to

rig it until the following day. On the Wednesday of the first week everyone went to see Transformers 3 in the

evening. On the Friday Richard came back to Faversham to find the gear wound up, topsail in place and up

topmast up, all in the pouring rain. On the Friday evening we set the topsail for the first time and sorted out

some of the rigging for it in the dark, then went to celebrate with a coke at the Anchor. The rain had shown us

where the deck leaks were, nearly all over Hilary’s berth! At the weekend several volunteers came along and

helped out with the painting. It occurred to us that the volunteers had done a great deal of cleaning and

painting over the years of the project and may well feel mixed emotions about the departure of the vessel

with a crew from Essex. Hopefully we could one day repay their efforts as she would not have looked or

performed as well without their hard work and commitment, nor would the project have made it through the

dark days without the endless resilience of people like William and Basil.

WEEK 2

On deck Down below

Luke and Haydn arrived back with Stretch on Sunday afternoon bringing various things like an outboard

motor and rowlocks for the barge boat. Dean and Dan showed them around and we saw how big she is and

then we started work learning how to do whipping and rope splicing.

On Monday it was very hot and we worked on all sorts including the blocks which all needed servicing. In the

afternoon Hilary told us four all to have a break and go down to the local swimming pool, we were gone for a

good couple of hours and came back and told everyone that it was really fun doing flips off the diving boards.

During the course of the second week we made more progress as we had extra 2 boys helping out to get the

Cambria away. We managed to get the mizzen mast but, but we found out the mizzen shrouds were on

backwards! We had to take it down then wind it back up again. But in the end we were all pleased to have to

have got it right.

Mizzen goes on and up.

By the end of that day everyone was stupidly tired apart from Luke who seemed to be jumping around, turns

out that he didn’t have his shoe laces tied up and his shoe ended up in the river… but he managed to get it

back when the next tide came in because luckily it floated. It proved that Fred Perry’s float and are of no

interest to marine rodents.

The next day the boys, Hilary and Elaine from the barge Repertor all went to London for the day, it was a

great experience. We went to St Katherine’s dock to have look at the barges and other vessels in there. We

went to watch Lady Daphne lock out of the marina and WE WERE INVITED TO GO THROUGH Tower Bridge

on the Lady Daphne by her skipper James. We went down river as far as the Surrey entrance to waste time

before the lift. It was amazing going through the bridge and stopping the traffic.

Tower Bridge opening just for us!! In St Katherine’s Lock.

We got off Daphne on London Bridge City Pier and went to have lunch by London Bridge in an Italian

restaurant. Is was a lunch we will always remember not because of the amazing food they brought out but

because a lady who was sitting next to us all got her bag stolen. After lunch we walked through Soho to

Leicester Square, on the way we saw the Hare Krishna’s. We went to see Pirates of the Caribbean in 3D. It was

a very good film and we enjoyed it a lot. We didn’t get back until late.

As the week carried on more and more people started to ask when we were going to leave, we kept making

good progress, everyone was doing a good job and the stairs for the main hatch were being built, the bowsprit

heaved out and dressed, it looked very long!

Bowsprit then………………………………………………………..and now

Dean, Dan, Luke and Haydn all took part very well, sorting out blocks helping attach sails, and climbing the

rigging with Richard (stretch) putting the ratlines on.

Sailmaker’s whipping. Bigger hammer needed maybe?

It took about two days of work to complete the ratlines and we all spent time aloft helping out. We were very

keen to get sailing so didn’t mind too much the long hours we were working. While the ratlines were being

done there was still a lot of work going on on deck and below. We were looking forward to a working toilet as

by now the one on Standard Quay had blocked so it was a long walk to Iron Wharf but we also discovered

lovely hot showers there.

Dean aloft sorting out the mainsail brails. Sorry chaps it’s the big one on the left you need to sort out

We launched the barge boat which we had helped make sea worthy and attached it to the davits. We were

painting and polishing, anything that needed doing we tried to turn our hands to.

Dan squeezed in to paint the steering gear. Hayden and Dean get to grips with the wheel.

By the end of week two we had done all the main things that you need to go sailing, also everyone was

pleased with every ones efforts. The stairs went up the plumbing and electrics all worked and we were all

thinking of going. On the Saturday of week two we set off, we needed a tug to the end of the river, but it

wasn’t the best weather to leave in. It was raining all the way down the creek! Gale force winds behind us and

other boats heading up the creek as we were going down. There was a good side to all of that though because

all the way down the Cambria had an audience looking and admiring her appearance. It was quite

overwhelming how many people came and watched her departure considering the weather conditions but it

was that important to everyone as she hasn’t been moved like this for over 40 years. We all knew what a

privilege it was to be on the Cambria at that point in time, and we were also looking forward to seeing how

she sailed.

Peter and Frog tow us away from Faversham down to the River Swale. Two steering on the bends as the

gear was still quite tight. Don’t they look apprehensive!!

Week 3

On deck Down below

We had to wait for a couple of days in the Swale due to a SW gale but we still had plenty to do. Bending on

the jibs was a heavy job as they had to be heaved out to the end of the bowsprit and then bent on to the stay.

We had plenty of rain for these couple of days so out came the very stylish Sea Change oillies. It certainly

didn’t feel like July!

Preparing the jib to go out on the bowsprit. Ready for rain or sun!

We managed to get away the next day, destination Maldon.

The weather forecast on Monday was for the south westerly gale to reduce and become a strong and then

gentle sailing breeze later in the day, so Cambria got under way after lunch. It was still flood tide and it was

therefore possible to simply raise the anchor and set the foresail and half the mainsail to run down the East

Swale.

Getting the anchor for the very first time. Dan takes us out of the Swale, Cambia’s 1st sail for

40 odd years. A great moment.

Half the main and the foresail set. Topsail firmly gasgetted! We even let the skipper have a go.

It was a very proud moment to have the privilege of setting sail for the first time for over forty years. As we

approached Shellness, the skipper decided it would be a good idea to see if she would tack back against the

force seven if need be so the vangs and mainsheet were winched in and he turned towards the beach and put

the helm down. The barge span like a top and it was immediately obvious that she was a very fine and handy

vessel.

After a few tacks, we bore away and ran through the Ham Gat and across the estuary making good speed and

using the VHF radio to ask a dredger to cross astern. In two hours we were at the Maplin buoy and soon after

through the Spitway and hardening sheets to work up into the Blackwater against the ebb tide. Earlier,

attempts to hoist the topsail had failed as the chain part of the halliard worked off the cheek of the non-

swivel block with the wind astern so we had the topsail sheet alone, mainsail and foresail set at this stage. We

did set the jib, a borrowed one with shackles as hanks, but dropped it before coming to windward as the

bowsprit was untried and the breeze still strong. In fact, towards the Knoll it breezed up to a good seven again

and with a couple of cloths of the mainsail wound in to help the steering the barge was very comfortable. It

was becoming clear how suitable she was for her job and how she effectively earned money for her owner and

crew.

Jib set for the first time. And finally the topsail.

After the Bench Head the south westerly eased to a four to five and the topsail, mizzen and jib were set for

the beat up the river. With this rig she was steaming along, an interesting phrase given the demise of sail at

the hands of steam, but one we maintain refers to the boiling of the bow wave and water passing a fast-

sailing vessel. Now with navigation lights on and in our home waters the crew were starting to relish the

barge’s performance. Short tacking past the moorings at Marconi she never faltered, even when we put the

board on the spit by Goldhanger Creek still winding easily even when we were slow in winding up the touching

board in the dark where another barge with less good boards or less mass would falter.

On our way to Maldon. There’s always work to do.

We anchored at Osea just upriver of the Reminder at 2330 and had a very late dinner.

On Tuesday high water was at lunchtime and we drudged in no wind for a few minutes before the wind filled

in from the south west. We tacked the barge early on tide as far as Heybridge Basin where Tim on is barge

Decima picked us up to tow us up to Maldon. He must have been pleased to see the fruition of his 4 years hard

work.

Alongside Tim on Decima.

Once at Maldon we filled up with water, went shopping for more chocolate mousse and other important

foodstuffs and the boys went home for a shower and clean clothes. Anna and Natalie and several parents

came to visit, all were impressed by Cambria. It took some time trying to source a swivel block for the topsail.

William Collard came with his wife Sue and took Stretch into the electric shop for an adaptor so we could plug

into the shore power. We loaded a borrowed jib from the Thistle and a running pole from Jim Dines and

spinnaker from the Sea Change garage. Tim and his partner Nikki visited and we went to the Queens Head for

a well earned drink and naturally talked all things Cambria!

Our youngest visitor, Dean’s niece Dave (Isabelle)

On the Wednesday at 0300 we singled up and left at 0330 with the outboard alongside. This took us to

Hillypool where a nice Northwesterly took us down river. We catted the anchor and set the jib off Thirslet Spit.

At the Knoll we tried out the running pole and spinnaker. At the Spitway it was ebb tide in the Wallet and

flood tide in the Swin. We bent the Thistle’s jib on as a jib topsail once through the spitway.We carried full sail

and fetched in to anchor at high water a little below Southend pier.

Jib and jib top set and then the running sail all for the first time hence the tangles!

Thursday we got the anchor before low water and a NE force two took us with two jibs and a mizzen to the

mucking where the jibs and mizzen were handed and anchored in near calm conditions in the Higham Bight

anchorage. William was watching from the wall. They seek him here, they seek him there.

Ian Dunkley from Gravesend Sea Cadets took the boys ashore and they stayed in the Cadet hut where they

got a lot of sleep, visited the music festival and fair and swam at the local pool.

On Friday morning the Port of London Authority joined us for the weekend. We had a lovely sail down Sea

Reach and then back to our anchorage to prepare Cambria for the al- important Thames Match the following

day.

Race prep.

RACE REPORT from the skipper.

The day dawned bright and sunny with a NNW 3 to 4 forecast for the whole day. As it turned out some of the

gusts were a little more than this as we shall see. The sail maker had burnt the midnight oil and the new jib

had arrived with Francis the previous day as had Grant with the Gladys’ running sail. Sailing around with the

jib but no mizzen (to help with manoeuvrabilty) there was enough wind to stay above the line against the ebb

which is often difficult in this race. Cambria was placed in the coasting class with Cabby, Lady Daphne and

Lady of the Lea but this year unusually no handicaps were applied. Cabby and Cambria had last raced

together in 1928 when Cabby was brand new.

As the first class away at 9 o clock we had a 15 minute start on the staysail class and half an hour on the

bowsprits. Cambria won her start fetching along the line on starboard, tacking on to port a few seconds

before the gun. The jib topsail, borrowed from Thistle, was quickly set and more quickly dropped again with

the jib when the additional stress on the bowsprit lead to it bending and jumping out of its cup ending up on

the rail.

Some quick crew work rigged a preventer to hold the bowsprit down and the jibs were reset along with the

mizzen. Cambria then settled down to a long reach to the north Oaze taking about 2 hours and we were very

gratified to see the rest of the fleet dropping behind.

At one stage the running pole was set up with the sail in stops but the wind never came far enough aft to be

able to set it, much to the relief of the foredeck crew!

We made a smart rounding of the outer mark and stood over to the Essex shore to cheat the last of the ebb.

Anxious eyes were cast astern to see if other barges were catching us on the windward leg but amazingly this

didn’t seem to be happening at this stage.

As both the breeze and the young flood favoured the north shore we worked long and short tacks past

Southend, dropping and resetting the borrowed jib topsail in the gusts something like 19 times. As we

approached the Chapman Head one or two barges were now catching us, the Melissa in particular. By

standing close to the Chapman Cambria went past the Blythe Sands in one tack whereas Melissa didn’t.

In Gravesend reach it was necessary to tack twice and to stand into the slack water on one occasion to avoid

shipping.

Cambria finished first having had the fastest leg to the outer mark of all the barges but not quite saving her

time over Melissa and Adieu which won their respective classes. Adieu won the cup for the fastest overall.

Never the less it was a very fine performance by Cambria and a very fitting beginning to the second phase of

her sailing career.

The boys watched the finish of the race from the shore and saw Cambria win her class and arrive as first

barge home. They rejoined the rest of us at the prize giving at which the barge collected seven trophies

including the best mainsheet man and fastest overall to the outer mark. It was great to be amongst other

barge people and people spoke to them about how they had worked to prepare the barge for the race.

Happy or what?

On Sunday Ian brought the boys back and Jean the pilot took us around London Vessel Traffic Service (VTS)

which was really interesting watching all the screens showing the ship movements and even small yachts.

We had brunch in a Gravesend greasy spoon and a spot of food shopping then had a lazy afternoon in the

sun.

Cambria from the VTS window.

Boys and bowsprit at Gravesend on Sunday evening.

Week 4

On Monday we mustered at 0700 and dropped the buoy on the last of the flood with a gentle NW which took

us to low water at the Maplin where the wind came in as a slight sea breeze. We were able to set the running

sail to stem the floodtide. We had the radio on and it was much more interesting to listen to VTS now we had

seen what they do, our knowledge of what was going on around us was greatly increased by what we had

learned there. Two hours before high water the wind came suddenly northeasterly for which we were

prepared because we had been watching the wind farm on the gunfleet spinning that way for some time. The

barge took off in the new breeze after we wisely dropped the jib topsail. She was a joy in a good four to five,

steady as a rock, steering straight and after two tacks we cleared the Whitaker and crossed the edge of the

Spitway to anchor off Brightlingsea at 8pm.

On our way to Brightlingsea

First thing on Tuesday we had a visit from the Pioneer Sailing Trust boatbuilding yard staff and apprentices.

We went ashore to pay a return visit and saw the smack Volante which they are currently rebuilding. Then we

looked over the Dong Energy wind farm boat Offshore Progress. We met Jim Lawrence and rowed him back

to Cambria for an afternoon sail. We were keen to hear his views and he was full of praise for all those

involved in her rebuild.

Jim doing what he knows best.

Richard and Jim rowed back to Brightlingsea while the rest of us went to Stone beach on East Mersea for a

barbeque. We couldn’t find much in the way of wood to light a bonfire, probably because of all those Sea

Change crews who had been there before us. Despite the weather Dean and Haydn went in for a dip. Stretch

did a fine job cooking the burgers but totally burnt the sausages!! Dan built a fire using the Bear Grylls method

which worked first time and Luke polished up his football skills but at one point had to wade in to retrieve the

ball.

Stretch burning sausages, but the burgers were great. Toasting marshmallows.

It was a bit chilly in the sea so we needed a fast row back to warm us up and a rare hot shower aboard.

We had a fairly leisurely start on Wednesday watching Pioneer and her crew of young people sail up to her

mooring. We got under way at about 1330 at half ebb with a NW 3 to 4 and were at the Maplin at 1530 and

across to the Kentish wind farm at 1730 having gybed a couple of times to avoid ships in the oaze

precautionary area. On our way out of the Colne we met the Reminder, the barge we usually sail. She looked

quite small in comparison to Cambria.

Pioneer and Reminder in the River Colne

We saw Greta returning to Whitstable as we passed the Spaniard. We dropped the jib and hardened up

mainsheet and vang to fetch through to above Harty Ferry tacking and dropping back against the flood to

anchor above Volharding whose crew visited that evening.

Dan looking for buoys and Luke steering us to the Cambria’s home in Kent.

Initially we had time for a spot of cerebral activity and relaxation.

Then as we came on the wind it was all hands to the sails and winches.

At the end of a long day Dan volunteered to stow the topsail

Thursday was a tidying and cleaning day, undressing the bowsprit and a short sail down to Faversham spit to

await the tug ordered for Friday morning to tow up to Faversham. Ryan, who was part of the rebuild team,

came out for a cuppa and to fetch the car key but soon found himself on an anchor winch handle!

Ryan taking a breather.

Everything we had put away in various hidey holes and spare cabins had to be hauled out and tided up ready

for Tim to restart on the Monday. We also wanted to hand the barge back in a neat, tidy and clean condition

as a small thank you to those who had made this possible. It turned into a lovely summer’s afternoon and

once the boys had finished all their jobs they decided it would be a good idea to go for a swim!

Brave…………………and cold!

Some went in for more………………...and some pretended they were in the Caribbean!

The afternoon turned into a lovely evening of relaxing on deck, our last supper together and then a trip to

Harty Ferry for more rowing practice and a glass of coke.

Rowing hard towards Competent Crew. Innovative footwear.

Friday our last day was also Dan’s 16th birthday so we celebrated in true style with his favourite breakfast,

beans on toast followed by chocolate cake at 8am!

Dan’s birthday breakfast

After breakfast we cleaned up down below, wound up the bowsprit and waited for our tow up with Frog and

Ryan. On the way up Dan was surprised and pleased to see a happy birthday sign hanging off Frog’s barge

Orinoco courtesy of Ryan’s sign writing skills.

We couldn’t believe the month had gone so quickly, we had worked hard but also had moments of fun and

relaxation. We really had been on a “journey” in more ways than one. All too soon we were back at

Faversham and it was time to pack our bags and say goodbye to Cambria, William and Basil but we hope to

be back one day.

Dan said:

When I arrived at Standard Quay and saw the barge for the first time I was amazed at what a stunning vessel

she was. After 2 weeks of rigging her out we took her down the creek and anchored in the Swale just outside

Faversham creek, after getting underway I realized quickly how very capable she was and how well she coped

with strong winds and rough seas. After sailing on other barges in the past I can say that Cambria stands out

from them all. I think the Cambria trust and the shipwrights have done a brilliant job and they should all be

very proud of her.

I can do a bowline, know where things are and what the ropes do, know what to look out for, which knots to

use for which things, and when the command to tack comes we know where to go and what to do.

It was amazing the amount of people who came out in the rain to see her off.

The whole thing has been amazing and I cannot really pick out a best point. This trip was more about the

Cambria than about us. When I was first asked to be part of the crew for the Cambria I was very honoured,

and didn’t really know what to expect. I would love to sail on her again.

Dean said:

I feel very proud to be part of the crew for the second maiden voyage of the Cambria in 42 years. I felt

privileged that I could help get her ready for the sea for me and many others to enjoy. After 2 weeks of rigging,

painting etc we took her down the creek and anchored in the Swale outside Faversham creek. When we first

set off for Maldon I couldn’t believe how amazing she sailed and so efficiently though high winds and rough

seas. She is unlike any sailing barge I have ever been on and am very grateful to have had this experience. I

think the shipwrights have done an incredible job over the last 4 years and should be very proud.

I really enjoyed getting to the stage where I can fleet the chain and set up the bob stay and be really useful on

the foredeck.

It has been better being aboard for long enough to repeat and remember things. We have become very

attached to the barge and she feels like home. We were watching her being put together and now we have

been able to sail her and now we have to leave her, hopefully not for ever…

Luke said:

I enjoyed Jumping off the barge swimming in the East Swale and going through Tower Bridge in the Lady

Daphne. Luke is a man of few words!

Haydn said:

Meeting Jim Lawrence and Hilary’s dinners were the best bits. Meeting lots of interesting people. Loads of

things like steering the barge .It made me proud how people reacted when I said I was from the Cambria.

I was so privileged to be invited to sail among the crew of Cambria. Then when I joined Cambria at

Faversham it was a big shock to me that so many people where involved and excited to see her set out to sea

once again, which I felt too was amazing! As this was the first barge that I had ever been on I was very excited

to set sail, but also very happy to be a part of helping to get her ready to go as she is a very famous and loved

barge. All the people involved with the Cambria made me feel at home straight away which was lovely.

When we eventually set of I was amazed at how she flew through the sea. When all seven of the crew where

on the barge it felt as if we were all a family, doing everything together.

I had some amazing times throughout the three weeks upon the barge and am very glad that I came. I have

also met some amazing people who I will never forget!

Stretch said:

The overall elegance of the ship, the way she heeled and felt so effortless despite her size. She is amazingly

handy and makes working her far easier than I expected. Another man of few words.

Hilary (the t-shirt should read I need large vodka!)said:

The first time we had five sails set, beating up the Blackwater in the dusk of her first day sailing for forty years

I realized what an amazing machine she is. She has been a home to us for a month and made us feel at home

which is far more. For me sailing is about sharing my recognition of what it has made me feel working with

others. I find it and challenging, often difficult and I never stop learning. It makes me feel I have really

achieved something when I succeed.

Richard said:

In her later trading days Cambria became identified with one man and his achievements which are a

yardstick for all who follow. But to return her to such a fine sailing condition has taken the combined efforts of

a whole team of people, starting with the initial vision of Tony Ellis, Basil Brambleby and William Collard,

broadening with success to a strong management team and excellent volunteers. It has been a privilege to be

able to get Cambria under way again and a great honour to experience her in a simple stripped down state

which may not fall to subsequent skippers. People often say how on earth was it possible to do what these old

boats did when they compare them to the current fleet. If they could experience (as we have) Cambria eating

up the miles effortlessly and yet turning up Colliers Reach in six feet of water, no underwater encumbrance, a

superb set of easy winches and good gear, with a strong hull as when new, maybe they would understand. I

hope this may become her mission – to share that understanding through real, hands-on engagement. This is

one of, if not the finest surviving example of British working sail, still able to do what she was designed to

do… long may she sail.

A few more pictures

CAMBRIA’S 2011 SEA-CHANGE SAILING CREW