Sewing Machine Clean & Adjust

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  • 8/6/2019 Sewing Machine Clean & Adjust

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    S -V A f II~'I1 1 1 ~ . I \ ' 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1I I ~ ,Sf~tauI~

    FARMERS' BUtLETIN No. 1944U. s. D E P A R T M E N T O F A G R IC U L T U R E

    NOT FOR RESALE

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    CO'":l,lUllt!J11sufSew-Classic.c.um

    SEWING MACHINESCleaning and Adjusting

    . h YHELI;N s.Ho;LBRQPK. Bureau of Hurnon NUtrlUonand ilprn,eEconomics. Agricultural R~earch Adrninisit(1tio.nALBERT V. KREWATOH. Extensi(?1'~ Service. U'niyersityofMcirylrind

    Making ...making over ...mending' ...these are three bigwari(~e as well aspeacetime jobs. A sewing in.achine'in good-running' condition cal:\helpdo all three', It- thus helps families pf.aetice the conservation and thrift80 essential now.All well-made seWingrlulchines, new o r old,usecl constantly or idle, canbe' made to run easily and sew perfectly. Even old.machines that. haveseen generations of household use can be .put into first-class condition andneed not be: exchanged fat a newer machine, Parts may need replacing,but the 'machine wiiI seldom wear out if periodi{:ally cleaned, oiled, andadjusted. This c1eiming; .oiling, and. adjusting. can be doneby "the owneewithout. the "use of'special tools orskiil. For perfect 'and easy sewing,however, certain adjustments must' be. correct; .

    Thl~ bulletin is prepared as, a guide IQr 'homemakers In the cleaning,oiliog;.alld correct adjusting of sewing machines. Additional informationandassisianctl in restoring machines- to' ninn'jog 'order is provided byD)any State extension' services through. demonstrations 'in local. com--muntties,

    IAJ'iprecia.tion,iSexPresSed to Byron B. ~objj., Cornell University; EQ~I.. i . . ,Arnold. War Production Board; H. Seymour Pringle; Office 'O~Price Admii-.iS-trn..lirin; and W, C. 'KrUeger, New Jersey Stale Agriculturiil ExtenstcnService,'for the;;:.aSsistance in ihe preparatio,\ "rthis bulletin, and to Milclred:Hoseit,.Burecru of HumaI!' Nutriti~n: anq.. H~m.~Eco~ornics, 0% ihe' illustrations.WD:';bingtoh~D.O.; Issued August 1~"3

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    GETREADf TO CLE;ANThe 'Instruction, Book.If you . still have 'ii,get o.lg'the .ml\nufa~turer"s book.ofinstructionsfoYQ_u.rp~r.ti~til~lD~~hnie. 'I' cOiitain~ ,b~~hdito;ct/.on$: and iiiljiitr.atiQ~~:

    Y , ) ' 1 l ':willW:ant'tQ~'efe .. totbemeften dUring ,tleaning. If thti boolchasb e e n IO,st," t * y to , 'get another, ' Instruction books a r e no' t . ,;i.vailablidor a U~l!chines,~:ut yo ~ !Day he 'abIt to 'ob!ai~ one by wriiing,tO, the ma.Il~'faeturer of ylin.r machine, ,J~i:re .him the':]'lamei ~qti!!number; a.njlapproximate.ageof 'YO,llrt:ia~hi1ie;

    Pie-tin for p'itis arid- Clea'i:Jing.Alti.id,.Small, cabinet-type' serew xlriver, (blade same widih. as di~meier of

    i lh a n);.), ''D

    C~~~pli;TI,es!t~l~ld,n9t be..,us!!d in.51,i4e ~builaings., iii.. highlYfln~rfiJi.bJe. N~~er'us..,g!l;';qJiTleth4toconta(ns lead.

    Small~ikan fo ' r -cleanili~,f lo id,

    "Pu.~ the machine W h~n!"it will heoutof themain i i p . . , - 9i,trltffic. P,lap~it so the light comes-over youi' Jdtshi)tilder as.you work. T\irn :fjig~well:backoui 'o f the wa y. "Pla ce j iekspa pers o n the" f l o o r .and against': imy:nearby, w~11 t,Q 'protccit:Lem, from-oil and ,~grea~~, mac~ folded news-papersjn the ~ahin.e~ SPliceundemeath the.head oftqc'machine.

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    CLEANING AND OILINGClean#fii-st is';! ~af~:rule {o fcil10w if a machiacIsgivfng .tronble. Dust,grit, Ant"and th~",ad ~lsilycolleqt on;*eW9;king,Rartsoftl~'G,\UTlO,N': IfiFtiiachtrie is orie that has rio Jaceplate'"do, not. open ' o rr e m o v e ' attrus time 'dIe needle-bar nousinKliwruch is the leit,handend rof the machine, This hou~ing:ysually ,is held ioget"hey withscrewsthat. show on-the rJght.ha~dsiil'" pI -the, ht)usillg. (S~ lig.~:)On ~ o i l i e , .machiiiea when. these s c r e w s , areremove.d~- thi!l.needle hal',,ani:lsomeiifuestlie ,pres8er'bai'-~separaiefrom the m a i n shaft iii 'the.head and 'fall out.

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    F iC }.u re 2

    Two Views o.o. Lock-stitchIYIo.chirie.']. Arm ..,2. Armplale: or cover ;Plate.3. Bobbin winde.. ..4, putch .5. :Faceplale.6. Feed dog.7, HandWheel..B. Needle bar.9;, PreSser fo~t.

    '10. Presserbcr.lL ~ressure-control screw.12:- Slide plcte. .'13. SliIcih.lenglh control or regulator 14. : Tension.' ' . .'15.. Thre.ad C)uide. .lB. 'Threod-bake-rip lever;11. Thro

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    Use' Cleuning Fluidwitti th e sha~p.-p

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    CO'":l,lUllt!J11sufSew-Classic.c.um

    oiling it. Soak this felt with cieaningfiui,)'and brush, li"tdo not removeit'. In a long-bobbin machine; clean the race with 'a cloth wet with'eleaning fluid. 'Many.Iong-hobbin inad:tineshav.e an oil 'well about one-fol.rtli inch 'in

    diameter underneath the shuttle slide, plate near :fh'e front, end of thes~uttfe raee.. Take out and clean the woo]' material that holds the, oil in'this oil well. Then, 'with a pin, dean tile .small hole that-leads from tileoil well to the shuttle. race. If the wool is dirty or missing or' if some:mateda} other than wool has been.putin this oilhelecpur.afresh wad of(\itl~!,r:raw wool or-wool yarn in :t.he hole.,To elean the upper tension, pull a piece, of cloth soaked in cleaning' fluidh a : c k and forth between the disks or surfaces of the upper, tension .to polish

    them. Repeat 'with a dry cloth. Be'snre no lint o r .thread remainswedged in it.Unwind or pick OUt With theneedle any thread t11at'113s wound around

    the-hearings 'of 'the handwheel. Such' threadniil.Y also cause: a machine,torun hard.. 'ci~a~ the clutch o n the' handwheei if tile wheel .does riot turn freelywithout operating the t-est or the machine when the lock nut .is Ioosened,Toclelin the clutchvloceen screw A in tile lock 'nut that holds the hand-whee) tight when sewiug (fig. 6). Unscrew the Jock nut, remove the,adjiisiiilg washer or washers, and take oft the handwheel, Clean.and oilthe handwbeel bearing; Replace tile wheel, the adjusti'i;tg washervandlock' nut. Tighten screw A.Now. turn the iock nut backward until theend of screw A bumps a lip on the adjusting washer, and see if the b_and-wheel turns freely wit!,lOut running tbe machiDe. If not, ....gain removethe lock nut, remove the adjusting washer carefully, and rotate it.one-halfturn. 'Replace the patts and tighten screw ,A. Check -to be sure theb anl}",beeI' t~rnS'freely when the lock )lut is loosened.

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    ('a"y,luucn~sufSl!'w~Classic,.('_um

    N Q W , If you 'have expert mstruction or assistance, open. the needle-barhousing on a 'machine without a Jaceplate.Beespeci"Uy careful, o fthose machines that jrave no feed dog, 'Be, sure', to unscrew only those'screws that actually hold together: the 'two pa~ts ofthe needle-bar housing(fig. 7).W~tchca~efully how the, needle bar',presser ba.r;"and small roller intne:ileedle-})ar' camdrive come apart.so that YOll can, remember where,

    and in what order 'to put them back. Brush and dean these parts withthe cleaningfluid; wipe themdry i Also, clean ani! wipe dry the inside,oftheneedle-har housing.Oil all parts freely; wipe 'away the excess oil, and putback th!jparts

    ,imme~iately. If theroller is worn it must he put back without reversing;otberwieeit may turn 'hard o~,slick.

    Oillhe Machine Head

    Treadle MechanismNow clean the driviugmechanismof a : treadle machine 'while the heapis drying.Remove all threads and dirt from

    'the five Or six: hearings ofthe.mech-anism. Usually there .is a bearing'at each end of tbe.jreadle, QUe at'each .end of the pitman, or connect-in~grod, and eitheroneor twobear-ingssupporting the band, or drivewheel (fig.;.3).Reiuovc any threadfrom these hearings.:Squirt' cleaning fluid into each

    'be.aril'g, run the, machine with the,treadle, then' wipe 4ry. When theyare thoroughly' dry, oil each: hearing,run 'the machine, and then wip'~,away ,any excess oil.

    It is better for bear.irigs to , ne thoroughly dry before "they are oiled,If kerosene has heen used as' the cleamngfluid, let the machine headdrv fpr al)out 24 hours. Or wash ~the kerosene from thebearings 'o f themachine ht using extra amounts of' oil. ','

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    :'Squirt ioil freely 'into all. oiihdles'and where.ver one,surface ,nt,bsa:gairist: Qr"~~rns~d:Qn' Itnoil!< J(jig. 9). Useoil.fre-ely, because all6il has been removed: ttomthidJeat-inisb~,.theiere.aning proces~, Neve"oil-the. u m s i o , ! s ". Run .the machine towotkthe oil

    thp.rOPloihIy i ' n t . o 1 a ll rtbe :lJyariJlgs:.When .. lJ i i1g is c!>mpletcd.,wip(: a J Ie;'cess.6iLfrom al lpar ts ,(t( th.. , : .1)1"-chine. Tlllsexces.soil collects dust,An.d 't09lIlu~h. oil on .the shuttleraGe' ,or:'ne~dl ca n cause sl>ipI)~dslitches.Be.'Stifeto oil anywoolor felt;tiJat'feeds -oil;t,the:'~inlttJ.e:i'ace.,But:.oi]on the, wo~1 hi. theoilh6le.u~de; thill\htittl~Blrde;piat\vf I~rig~j.,obh;'-'

    maehines.with'auch a hole. Som.long"shuttkniaehiries haveabloek off,eh:or,ball: of WQ

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    Motor and Motor Control

    Ltihrieate t h e electric motor according to rhemannfactueee's ',instruc.tions. Some motors need to Le lubrieaterl only once a year; some need1 1 0 lubrication.' -Soine re

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    To make.snre a needle is the,right length, watch the shuttle as 'itcrossesih'rne.e?ledllr.ing,siit~\llQg. ,The'point or hook of the shuttfeshould-cross.the needle sothat theshuttle point 'enters the'Ioop of thread at itsbroadest.:point to form the stitch. Too short. or to o long a needle or one set too'high or too Iow causes skipped stitches. On some machines a needle that'!s:to'o'lo-ng will.:preak o,r'llend' or-cause the upper .thread to lireak.,It's a goodidea to scratch twomarks in the paint .on. the machine to,indicate correct.Iength.between end Of shank 'and eye of needle to guideyou when buying a new needle .. A dull Ol;,blunt.needle p,pUs threads, causing, side f,nickerswhem;titching.1 '0 sharpen, take the needle between the thumb and middle finger, roll itand at the .same time' draw it lengthwise' over a fu.eemery stone.. Guidewith the forefinger.Replace.anecdlethetdsbem-or hadly ' blunted-or one wi~hsu';h a sharp

    e y e that it. breaks the thread.A bentlied!ein themachine may strikethe edge of thepresserfoot, theedge ofthe needle hole,.the needle plate, or the edge -ofthe shuttle. Ifthisdoes notbreak the needle, itwillblunt it. Itmay also roughen theedg~of the p~es~r foot and" the-needle hole. .'tomake a rough test for needle straightness, hold tbeshank of the needle

    between the -thumh and forefinger. .Roll the 'needle, watching the point.The point ahouldremairi in, the C e n t e r . The point of a bent needle will.swl;ng .in acircle, .To weed out a needle that may he only soslightlj' bent that the above

    test does not reveal the fact, make' the following test. Set the needle inthe machine" Now lower it slowly into tll needle .hole. The wholelength of the needle should '~followihrough'; ipt needle hole injhe same'position .inwhich the point entered it.

    The position of theneedle bar needs to beadjusted :if .a straight needle; correctly set,enters.near the edge Instead of in the center 'ofrhe: needle hole, On some, machines- without,a faceplate; you canadjust the.:qe.edle bar byIooseningthescrews that"l101d thefront of theneedle .barhousing', andmovnig the .housingunnlthe needle i)6es ent"r thecenterof the'hole; Hold the housingfionly as you retighten'the screws;

    On machines with a faeeplate ror with a..needle-bar housing~hatseparates at' the'riddle bar do not, try to change the needle. barposition without expert help.

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    . .1 . . . . .Flgur. '11

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    T.hl'eudiltgRefer to y.our instrucrionbook. the thread should run fr.om the spoolto the upper tension, 'to the thread take-up, and then to the needle,

    Vari.ous .guides hold. the thread iii the correct .P.osition as. it feeds to thosethree'main' pointe+-tension, fake-up; and needle, Pass ' the. 'threadthrough ,the needle from the side with the long groove to the side. with,theshortgroove,Placethe bobbin in ita case or shuttle. Pull jhe thread under 'the lower

    or bobbin tension, accor-ding .to We.'in~tructi.on book, III most machines'the b.obbin alrould rotate in a couuterclookwise-direction as the 'tl:ir~lldunwinds. Iftheshuttle knot threaded correctly, the thread may catch.and break, or loops may form in the stitching along the top side of theoloth, If the h.obbln is put' in the.hobbiu ca~e incorrectly, the case may',unthread,

    Stitch-Length C9nlroI. DiiJ~reDtm:achiDes have ,different types of controlfor 'adjusting, ih,e'lengtJi of stitch. This 'control should be 'free tomove sO\tha,t it can regu-late the' stitch over the entire range of ,stitch lengths, possible .on ~he,machine, During cleaning lind oiling, the screw, lever,' or slide thatadjuatathie control may have.been set for a very snort stitch. If thecontrol is>set for an e",ti'nicly short stitch.rtbe feed dog will not, feed thedoth through the machine, To, correct this, increasethe iength of ~titchuntil the feed dog moves forward 'and backward as well as up and down-

    TensionsUpperand lower tensions mustbe balanced to producea perfect stitel .

    The upper tension .varies in 'location o n different machines; Tt may beon tbefaceplate, on tlre Iace of tlje .needle-bar housing on thefrontof.theneedle-bar-housing, or on, the npperarm of the machine head.. I~ is, ad-juated by .a thumbnut,The lower tensionvIocated on the shuttle or bobbin case, isadj usted bya . screw. If .two s c r e w s ' fasten 'the lower tension '.sptilig to' the, bobbin

    case..adjust byim'ning the screw-nearest the-ceuter 6f'the~ri'ing_:;ndt the~crew on: the end. '

    If, duringthe cleaning, the lo;,ier'.tension sp-dng has not b~n remoced 'or,itsadjUSI11!ent cI , , ;wBed, the 'adjusting, procedure is .the same as in theordinary useof the machiue, That is, a'~Sunt~"the lower: tension to becorrect until proved , , , r o n g , and 'make all adjustmeuts .on the upper ".tension,

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    If the lottiertensiim hasbeihdi3tdiib,Hl;set' ~Y'giIessiioth low~i"ana tlpperien~ioIl.8~o there wm~be :some,drag.oii .eachtliread, Use the' same sizeih ,eajQIlbot~ h1libill. ;lIla, SPO,?1.~8Ul1\e die lower te;nsion t f> ' btl cor-rect':i:liiiiI p i c i v . e d ". t4~IWis~by tgsiIng., and !ilak~afiadj,!s~~iintson theupper' tension ..NoW.t{) gqiMyou in ~b,llad},;,stjllg,t4ke ~ lookaj, ~hes::thching the,machine.makes. Bet stitch-Icngth.controlfor a m~diiiriiJ"ilgth oCetitch.

    Fol(J a 6 'or 8~iiicli square o'Cslieeting oraiierige.w,e'igrt cl.)th aIid;stitchili,!gon;d1yacross . ' i t at\!n angle of iihout 45,Now. inspect the stRching (fig.12)..A'pepfeetstHch,wl1l hayethteada

    Ioeked 'in thecep,ter .midway',between die two layer's ' 0 1 . doth, With no.loops~Il thetop. or bottom of th~)~eamandno.p';'l)ker~'.in: ill",J,Ioth; Ifloopso:ttheb6bbin'\llt~ad$ho:w.Mthe. top S I 4 e , o f t)lese~n;! and:~h.etop'thread is straightl the,upp,er ,ieilsiotds: tightQi:'th

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    I te !!,: ' i s the way tomake' a djlJS1;nieJ!:fS :n tb" p~eceJ)l!g .cases:. 1. O J . ! ' .thll'.upper. 1;hrea4hreaks, ll)~s~nt~e tlP;per .tellsioJ1hy turning.'the a;djustin.g n9-~about, ori!'i'fouriJt of;:ltll~n:tq th.e"Jeh. Milke ill\6the~'diag,;>nal.ileam and test 'the' stitch ,agahi'. Repe!ft;if;nece$i3a'ry,.

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    1. -Tilr,; the handwheC! 'slo,vly, byh"nd .and. watch the .action of thethread-take-up spl"i~g' 'as' the needle" enters- the. Cldtli. The 'spring sbouldrelease the tensjon p n ihethrCl!d---;justas the eye ofthe needle is-about' t6ei1ter tI~edotb.H, the S.()ringCQlllc;tQ,xestipo soon ,?r.after' th~,l.leeHle;-enters the. doth, 10C;:ittandIooseu.ahe sCi;~~'A:th;\t>f;ii;lensth.'take,;up.'spying h91der(flg, 1'1), NQ\y.crtifate' the holder untillhe bor.'ect adjust"wen-tils Inade and then iighteii'iicrew A. S i n c e ' different machiries-adjustdifi'erently"orefer to yourin~t.r~l~til)~ bookorarudy themachinecareJ,i,llruntil y(judeter,n1in'nyl~~rWthe.,aajusti'ngscrewis IOijatedand,JIOW '\0 make.the adjustment, It ,m ily p.tit' be, PQssibletti,milke this adjustment .onsome-types of. maehiries. " .2,. I't"'et!lke~up ,~p!i"gseerns-weak and,Ao ..s not t'eti'!i:n t9 it~H~Pposition ~reg\Jlai'Iy., 'it needs' .another. :~ype: ;ofacljns6'nent. ,Q,iriiany

    'irlachiiies,the spdng is ,held, in.plaee-by t'hesplitholt ",hid, passes through,th~"terision 4is!';s.T'0 adjust .the spdng, !t:enlOve t,~nsion~adjo!\ting nut,t(llis~i)lj-!ldJii;$,*lg ~pr!ij;g;anj t~!1si{1n,dik's,,(Jig; 15).'The:ll replace .theterisioil-adJllstirig nur-on the' split bolt to ahQut .the 'depfh "of ;the nutaifdti'nac~,ew'tllebolt withasurew driver. :Replacing nut on the-end ofthe'1)plt keeps"screwdi-i,ver {tom ':sprei.dirig the end. 0 ' th,e bol1.,W h e n ',die "boitlsjo'osened, rotate tMs~ring i i i - o o t i d the, hblt about,,one-fourth ,of a turn. Tighten th e split: 1011;and 'test the take':ug spring,!osee,ifi~nowh!,-si:qe righ!,am,ountP! i,enslon 'to draw the gla~I

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    Bobbin WiDderCheck to see' .if ,the bobbin winder

    works as it. should, If the bobbinwinder has a, rubber ring which doesnot press hard enough agains t thewheel to wind, the bbbbin"lo!lscw theadjusting 'screw .A , :pressthe winderlightly against 'the-hub of'the hand-wheel; thcntighten the adJuotihgscrew (ng . 1~).Take. good care of th ~ rubber ring.

    Never get o il on it. Oil !> r greasemakes t h e i:ing slip .and s , v e J i andspoils' the vruhher, If' tbe~ing haslost its "stretch" -ccplace it:

    If thread pi.lesup at one.end .of the.bobbin, .adjust rthe arm that' guidesthe thread as youi.ina it~e:bobbil.l.Most threacl-gUidearrus have. anarrow place 't..ear"'the center wherethey bend rather easily. With'pliers,grip .:tbe ,!irnl above this .point andbend it away HOi'l l thii. end ,of th ebobbin a t , \vhich the thread heapsuji(fig. ~7).

    If the drive \~heel. of the bobbinwinder on 'a long-sbuttle machinewil l not turn the cam wheel, the camwheel: may need adjusting (fig., 18).Check to, see" if the center bolt A "which is the bearing o f the cam wheel,is, gumme(\ with dirt or has,rotate;lout of adjustment, , f . . ,shght turn ofthis I'lolt moves. the eam wheel to-,ward 01' away from t'he:drive. Loosenthe nut on the 'back end of this bolt,rotate' the, holt with .a screw .driverJmtil 'the teeth on tbe Gam ' wheel,en g a g e the, teeth oil the' hohhln .drive,then li.ghte" the nul. Check to seetha l the entire JJ'lechal1ism runs'freely.

    Figurt! 17

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    F e e d D C Ig'TheJ'e-~d t1pg;'w\.iichpu"hes, til". ~ai;!'riat~long,-~'Morn nee'ds:~ep\aclng.H ow well it, w9rks ,d~p~n~s uppn ib", s_~.ttl,ngopi tp-e:feea dl:>gimdthe,ao;ljl;lst-

    menr iifthe ,pressure, On, the,'ph,sserfoo:t.If the f ee d -d cigis setcorrectl Y " a i : its hig)l\~si:.position the Eiottoms'of th e

    D,Qiches formedby the teeth are even wi~I},thetop~!lrfaGe:of th,~ -tti~oat_P1at"l. Ifki,s set tothiwanydirect,i,wotmake: a complete l!l:op, or turn without. raising' die rrei;i;~r fdot. :This.freedcm of

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    Shuttle and.Shuttle Cr~clleA hlun! or worn shuttle causes skipped stitches. You may be-able to

    sharpen a :blunt shuttle with Ii fine emery stone. Or' a whetstone. Sharpenit from the rounded iid~,ne,yer,on 'the flat side;Roughorsharp edges, on ,the shuttle, theshuttleceadle, or. the shuttlespring mily catch, break, or 'da,mage the, th!cad. Smooth .these 'r~:nrgh

    edges with fine emery stone or whetstone.Check the adjustment of the shuttle cradle on-a long-shuttle machine

    to Bee it thread 'p~6se freely betw",en shuttle and-cradle; If the threaddocs not ,pass freely, correct the condition l.y 10Qseni r ig tile sere'w that.ho.ld~ thecradle, moving. the. cradle slightly away froni tht, race, and thentightening the screw 'again 'firmly.

    Tl'eadle and.BeltIf the t~eadle' is loose and noisy, tighten the bearing at 'Whichever end

    'of the treadle i~most convenient t,o reach. Place a screw, driver in theslot of the.adjusfingboltc hold it.firmly ali.you loosen: the lock nut withthewrench (figs. 21 arid 22j., With ,the screw driver, iightcn the'bolt~mtiliijsjust tight;,' then loosen.' it slightly; Tlghtenthe lock nut. Run the.machine. CAUT10N: A bearing that is too t ight makes th e machine ru,rlhard;.If tll(itteadle still runs 'noisily, 'S,9lPe other 'b~adng mily ,n.eed,adjusting'.

    Many drive.,vheeJheafll1gs may' headjusted as des'cribed above.'Cpn-necting-rod. bearings adjust inmauy different ways. Study the machinecilrefullybefore attempting to adjust these bearings. Don't try toadjust ball bearings:

    Flgur. 21

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    Com.pluJtlm:ts (,ifSi!'w-Clnssic.clJrn

    , If the leather drive belt is too loose, shorten it as follows, Openfbeho ok tl18:t holds the belt'ends together, pull the belt tight, arid measurecare:ully howmuch oCthe belt should be.cuf off; then cui. Punch a newhole-in' the belt. ,All sewlng-machine belts have 'a flat, smooth,Side.Lay the belt' on' a hard surface and punch the hole with th,e "til~tto or.ice pick down through tins flatside straight through to the other side ofthe belt, This makes a hole that will not pull out. Be careful 'not, totear the leather at the hole. Hook the two ends together .andflatteu thehook with tliepliers.

    RUNNING 'THE MACHINEAlways be sure-before you start to use amachine that itis wiped clean.Select the thread, either cotton or silk; ofa size to suit-the material you

    are sewing on. Finer thread is used fpc .iD,achinc sewing than for hand.sewing. The table in ycurjnetructien ~ook will guide, you In makingthe correct selectionof thread i\)ragiv~'n mateeial, Tb.efut~r tbe materia]the finer the 'thread. '

    U se a needle o f ' the r igbt size' for ihe thread. ,(See p. ,1l!J.) A needlethat is too coarse, wil l poke 'holes in the cloth too large for the' thread tofill.or wilt C a u s e : skipped stitches.US:,~he same size thread 011the 'J;lobbin as ontopcif the 'machine; except

    when'iYO;uwant 'special'eritcliing effects, 'If jhemachineha~ .no automaticbdhbin winder release, 'he" careful'not ,to wind the bobbin too full or 'too tight or .the thread-may break. institching. It is good practice riotto wind on .a bobbin partly filled'with thread. ,You lJ,Iay be-deceivedlatervahout the. amoun,t jn,thjl tO Pwinding, ana forget ',,'h,.t kind o f.thread is underneath, If you lackbobbins and must wind on top ofanother thread. be sure the thread~nds underneath ~re ,I{augqt, -uuderthe new thread and not left looset o ;tangle and cause the new threadto break.

    S e l J the, stitchIength ; illcn, i f necessary, adjust the upper tension tosuit the: thread ali'o;lmaterial, For ordinary sewing on a lock-stitchmachine 12 to, 16',stitches, to 'an inch: is about right. Use a 10ll,ger sri tchfor heavy material; 'a shorter one for fine. If stitch Iength isn't:specified00 'the stitch ("ontrol, count the stit~l.es:'i;"'a measured inch.of sewing,

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    Puli eQough t h J " ~ < l < : l thf,;m,gh ti,e,j~edie~

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    ~,~,.sl

    !. 9 ' - 0 . . . .~.I i, ~.5~ .~ 'F = ~,g,'C ]." " '~i t," ' . = iii' " 0: : l "r;, ~ ~1. i r5J. . . . hQ '" Z ~ j " ~ . r f i ( , )' " 1. .

    Jz' " :ij. . .sOl

    :~, .; ~:'lJ ~ t~~e ~6 . .= . .' " il~" .~.~ 2 z. i f 1.'1 1 f'i ~8 =~J l.!~.;" ' :

    .S'"~~~j~~i

    - .-

    ~g:::

    ~ ; : ; ; ; ; ; ; . ; ; ; ~ ; : ; ~ ; ; ; : ; ; : ;; ; ; ' ; ; : ; ~ ; ; ; ; ~ ; ; ; ; ; : ; ; ; ; ; ; I " ~1 8 \ ~ \ E I~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~g~~ 11 ~ ' - _ _ 7-~_~__ P _ Q _ Q ~ ~ _ Q _ ~ _ ~ _ o _ ~_ Q - 7 l u _ u _ u _ u _ u _ u _ u _ u _ ~ _ . u _ . _ u _ 0 ~ I_ " ' ~ I ~ ~ _ _ I ~ " '_ ~ I _ ~_ ~ I ~ ~i

    ~1.l~>:fii~~Cii~>:ll'" I ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ C J ; ! : g : g 11 !l 1 1 2 I ; : \ I 1 < : < ~ .~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ' ~ ~ ~ ~ ~NNNNNNNNNNNNI'~ I ~ I ~ \ ~ I ~ t 1" " , . , , , , , , , , , , , , , ' , , , ; b , , , , , , , , 1 . . , ; . . . . . . " . . . . " ' . . . . . . ." ' 1 ' " I < '! I "! I s I 22. :.~.__ ._...._-1.....,... . ....._____ C'I.-t~ ............ .... ~.. ~

    ' - - - - - - - - - ~ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - ~ 1 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - ~ - - ~ 1 - - ~ 1 ~ - - ~ 1 - - ~ 1 - - - ' 1 ~"'....~~"'''',;,~'''''';:!;:;::l1 "'''''''''' .. '''~

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    .lmye,rfei:t 'siit~'cs:I , .p 0 f' . .ed :ltitcb.e!;! Q,D 't,op"" clotli co r . u p p e r thread lies. stralghta ]o ng.:: to p.(> f clo th . "

    La.oped etircbee 'onlow~.r_ - c " ~ ,d _ e of '~!oth Q _ F low.~F'tbr~~d 1i~~ 'B,tiaigJ:i~a lo cg 1 .)6 tto ill ,dfGlotl);

    MACIIINETlI.OUBLES

    ,wci. 'o(oil.".", , , , , ".,:' '_'.'.',Th're~~.,. wJ)und .1froun:d~ whee} ;and .treadle~ i F f ~ ~ a ~ r . ; : ~ ~ r t : j ; ; : h e ~ ~ ; ~ : g ~ : ,: ; : ' : , ' : ' ~ ' " , , ~ : ~~.ob~,i~. ~l~d~, ~g~in~~/1Vhe~1.pI: ':Qel.t~ilringst~tcblng - ".. _ _.~ _; " : ~ _

    :Uppe~~t'~_I:'6ib~l?~ig~-t.or;[9wer-.~o~:d~.o~e"~.,~.Bobbin mCQrr :oct ly : threaded ..... ,,",, ..... '. '....Dj(:t, lint, oriruet.between.upper tensjon'-dij;:;ks"'/Di:r~;'lint:,.or pieces ,?'thre.jild:nndetclow~_r.tcn6ioD~prjng:,.;,.~~:.;,;.;. ~_~'... : ~ '.' ~."" ~','I = n c o t o r e r i t . .threawlIgL.,,,'."'" .'. ~~,,,.. ' '. ;'-:." . ,:.Up~er:-telii6iop t o _ o _]~os.e: or_lowe~~tQO:t!.g~t....' " ._+.~,i:~:ftlint, 9r-~~t_be:t~ ...~e~_.J:;~P~I:e:n:~~on,Pi 5 .k~~. ,D!rt~ l in~,/q l: " p ie ,ces/Q.f tbreiu;l unde_l ' lower. t~'Mi9n. spring: ." '.' '.' .,'.. '_., '.: ._.;-,;".. ' 01 -- : ~_.j '.E>jrt,or.llnt'In end 0 : shuttle orbottom of:hobbincaee ~.:" ..... '",'::" .'';; .. _'._,. _ :.',1.~hl.l~'~le t?O:..ti~ght~n~,~but~]e..c~'rr~~r::-~::: .: ........

    .Needle.bcnr: .; .;;; ,:. :." .. ' .'.:, " . :" , . ,,_ " ,.' .. ' . > :l~ m ~ ~ ~ \ : . . iE H : : : il on-needle or too.mucli on 'shuttle race- .. '.. ..','Shutde_pQilll--hluni"or,wtXll. ~_",""."' ..r : :' . '. _ ; . . r . ; : .. .:

    .Stag,g~red."etitchee--;.~~'" .too-l.itti~:pr'~ssl1reQ~ pr,C8ser~Qo_t.-'. -~._.". ' . ; , . ' .' ., .Tak;e.~p ~prmg,.w.e :. ~ : ~ : ! t : ;~ ~ . :J j ~ ~ ~ : r ~ e ~ ~ iY . . . ' . ' :< . ' ~ . ~ _ , : : : . , ' : ' ~ , , : , , ;' :N~d~e,~~:q~gai~~t__~esger.(o.o!~iliecdJ6:'p]~~e,r.~!"lt~Je.:." .. " :," ..,,' " ,.,., ,., ~""", l l"~:p!or. sl;tarp ~1a'ce.im"huttJ~ 'Q r.~ye.0 fl1 eedlc ,JJpf..er-temaO'Q.mllch too:tI.gh1;.;: .. ~ . .__,. ',' : ~ . .... a .I ~ ' long-shni.rle ; p I { i c h i _ : n : e - : - - - - - - - - - n o ~. n o u g p clearancebetween S9u~t1~ia~d: sl:J~tt)c-

    ,~ijIf,l{f:]: 211,9}S17141+)5:]717,'6

    11l8'~1113iii

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    CO'":l,lUllt!J11sufSew-Classic.c.um

    mclIINE T~OUBLES-continued.

    59-me of the Dlore~Ill~on ~u,~le~

    L o U 1 < ! l ' .hread breaking ...

    I iiatukrlTWtjeedirr& throughJh"u;hi .ne t;'Otrecdy, .

    BObbin i O O r i - ~ i . wiltd cor-rectiy,

    Clutch .not releasing .hand,wheel.

    Hand~'he~X'hW'd I O tu~'()tset:

    Possible causes

    Poor, kno~ty.,or r~tt~ 'thread .Lower tensionmuch.t~ .tight _ ~ .Bobbin case o r 5hu.ttle threaded incorrectly, .BU,r:orsharp edges on needle plate _ .... -.~;_ ' . _Bobbin wound too.loceely- or too'tightIX' '..~~~~ :~::~::~;~':;~r' : ' : :.::::::.:::;::;.:Roughor sb.."". edges on bobliin sbculde ......, .. ;.Rough or'sharf' e4ges on 'lower tedaion spring. '-.Dirt.or thread UI ehuctle cavity eo hobhinJ

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    tONTENTS

    'G",::(RE,:'>X ,TO .eLEAN,. , -, ' , . '." ..'. ' , .' .'.Th~, j'nsUuction book. , ,'., , 'i', ,.' '.... ',.Eqtilp--qlentnced,ed .. ,,, , ,._, .." '"',,",",,4.'I!lacl'!'to worl;::. . ," , ',' .' , .

    ,CLEA]l!'i"I',GA:'ND OU'iNG' ', , " .' , , ,. , ,Pai-ts to' remove , ." , ." .. ,. '..... , .. , .', L'. ,''',',U~e del\lling~yid' / .. ,: , ,. .. ~, .:': .T~ead(e )ll.,