Shoe Lasting and Finishing

NITTTR, Chennai – 600 113.

SKILL DEVELOPMENT CURRICULUM

1. Sector : Leather and Leather Goods

2. Name and Code No. of the Trade : Shoe Lasting and Finishing

3. Level : II

4. Duration in hours : 6 months/ 24 weeks/ 960 hours

5. Entry Qualification/ Eligibility for admission

: 10th Standard Pass + ITI Pass in the trade: Fitter or Millwright Fitter

Age: 16+ and below 35 years

6. Employment opportunities : Wage employment as-- Lasting & Finishing Operators- Supervisor in Shoe Production Units-

7. Job/ Trade Profile : Perform alignment of various components on lasting machines

Perform alignment of various components on bottom machines

Perform manual lasting operations

Perform operations on lasting machines

Perform different types of shoe construction

Perform various shoe finishing operations

Page 1 of 21

L.C-5

8. Modules of Study and Time allocation

:

Trade:

Module No.

Title of the ModuleTime (in Hours)

Theory Practical Total

1.Tools, Materials & Accessories for Shoe Lasting and Finishing 48 24 72

2Machines & Equipments for Shoe Lasting and Finishing 40 112 152

3 Practice on hand lasting methods 8 32 40

4. Practice on Lasting machines 40 232 272

5Practice on various types of shoe construction 120 160 280

6Practice on shoe finishing operations 24 56 80

7Quality Control measures in shoe lasting and finishing 24 8 32

Consolidation and Evaluation8 24 32

Total 312 648 960

9. Content details of each module : Refer Appendices 1 to 7

10. Guidelines for assessment and certification

: (i) Mode of Assessment (A) Trade Test (Practical Exam) -

Weightage 70%(B) Written Test – Weightage 15%

(C) Viva (oral exam) – Weightage 15%

(ii) In conducting the trade test & viva an industrial expert should be involved.

(iii) No. of Trade Tests – 3

1) Lasting of shoe upper - Weightage 30%

2) Shoe construction – Weightage 30%

3) Finishing and Quality assurance of final shoe – Weightage 10%

Page 2 of 21

(iv) No. of Written tests – 2

(Weightage for each test – 7.5%)

(v) No. of viva – 2

(Weightage for each viva – 7.5%)

11. Resource requirements :

The following resources will be required for training a batch of 20 trainees.

LIST OF MACHINES

TOOLS & ACCESSORIES

Page 3 of 21

SlName of machine with specification details

Quantit

1. Toe Puff Attaching Machine 1

2. Counter Moulding Machine 1

3. Mulling Machine 1

4. Toe lasting Machine 1

5. Heel seat lasting machine 1

6. Moccasin Preforming machine 1

7. Heat Setting Machine 1

8. Pounding Machine 1

9. Wire brush roughing Machine 2

10. Hot Air Blower or Wrinkle chaser 1

11. I R Sole activator 1

12. Sole Attaching Press 1

13. Sole Stitching Machine 1

14. Spray Booth 1

15. Mog iron rod 5

16. Brushing and Polishing Machine 2

17. Insole Moulding Machine 1

18. Soldering stick /Thread Burner 20

19. Air Compressor (10 hp) 1

20. Bench grinding machine Motor : 0.25HP 1

S.No Item Quantity

1. Cuddapa Stone 1 ½’x1’x 1” thick 22 nos.

2. Hammer 25 nos.

3. Lasting Pincers 25nos.

4. S.S.Scale 1’ 25 nos.

5. S.S.Scale 2’ 25 nos.

6. S.S.Scale 1/2’ 25 nos.

7. H.S.S. hacksaw blade1’x1/2” 25 nos.

8. Knife holder ½” 25 nos.

9. Oil stone 25 nos.

10. Thread trimmer 25nos.

11. Nail puller 25 No

12. Pasting brushes 25 nos.

13. Bone folders 25 nos.

14. Adhesive can plastic 25 nos.

15. Scissor 8” 25 nos.

16. Cutting plier 5 nos.

17. Screw driver 6 nos.

18. Shoe sizing tape 25 nos.

19. Shoe Last (Plastic) Size: 8 & 9 Slidometric hinge type

Solid block type Scoop last Telescopic last Last with heel plate Last with half plate Last with full plate

200 pairs

-- 120 pairs for gents (3 styles and 2 sizes with 20 pairs of each)

-- 80 pairs for ladies (2 Styles and 2 sizes with 20 pairs each)

-- 2 pairs each

FURNITURE

S.N Item Quantity

Page 4 of 21

1.Lasting tables with lasting jacks four in

one 5 nos.

2. Wooden tables for finishing operations 5 nos.

3. Last storage bins 12 nos.

4. Instructor table 3 nos.

5. Instructor chair 3 nos.

6. Class room white boards 2 nos.

7. Pigeon hole cupboards for students 3 nos.

8. Cupboards for raw material storage 5 nos.

9. Steel racks for raw material storage 5 nos.

10. Cupboards for finished goods storage 2 nos.

CONSUMABLESLeather & Non Leather

S.No.

Item Quantity

1. Leather UppersOpen footwear - 4 Models Close footwear - 6 Models

200(20 Pairs in each model)

2. Leather bare straps ( for basic lasting practice)

200 Pairs

3. Leather and synthetic vamp cut components

( for basic lasting practice)

Each 100 Pairs

4. In soles boards (cellulose) 30 sheets

5. Leather boards 30 sheets

6. Foot beds 60 pairs

7. Synthetic soles PVC, TPR,PU

50 PairsEach

8. Sole rubber sheets 30 No

9. Shank 250 pairs

10. Shank board 5 nos.

11. Eva Foam sheets (insock) 12 nos.

12. Moccasin thread 5 cones

13. Sole stitching thread 5 cones

Page 5 of 21

GRINDERIES

S.No ItemQuantity

1. Rubber solution – 5 litre tin 5 nos.

2. Neoprene adhesive 5 Lit Tin 10 nos.

3. PU Adhesive 5Lit 10 No

4. Hot melt adhesive(poly amide & Poly ester) 3 rolls each

5. primers 10 lrs.

6. Shoe creams 2 kgs

7. Shoe polishes 2 kgs

8. Refreshers 2 lrs

9. Waxes 6 bars

10. hardeners 1 kg

11. Rubber latex solution 5Lit 5No

12. Singer oil 3/1- 5 Lit 2 nos.

13. Crepe rubber 5 sq. ft

14. Silver refill 20 nos.

15. Marking chalk 5 boxes

16. Nails assorted 5 kgs

17. Micro tacks 10 boxes

SPACE REQUIREMENT

S.No Item Size

1. Raw material storage room 500 sft

2. Training hall 4000 sft

3. Finished goods storage room 500 sft

Page 6 of 21

BOOKS/ INSTRUCTIONAL RESOURCES

1. S.S. Dutta, (1980) ”Introduction to the Principle of leather Manufacture” Kolkatta.- Indian Leather Technologist Association.

2. S.S.Dutta, (1980) ” Physical Testing Of Leather” Kolkatta.- Indian Leather Technologist Association.

3. R.G.Miller, (1989) ”Manual of shoe making” England-Clarks ltd.

4. Somenath Ganguly, (2005), ”Comprehensive Footwear Technology’Kolkatta.- Indian Leather Technologist Association.

5. B.Venkatappaiah, (1997), ”Introduction to modern footwear technology” Chennai. -GOTETI GRAPHICS

6. J.H.Thornton, (1970), ”Text book of footwear manufacture” London. -National Trade Press Ltd.

7. NL, “Footwear Materials and process Technology”, Newzealand-Leather and Shoe research Association.

8. Gillibrand ,J.(1969) Coated fabrics and shoe industry, J of BBSI

9. Ganga Radakrishnan,(1993) Polymers in Footwear Manufacture. Publication of Indian Leather,,Chennai.

10.U.S Paul, Literature on Shoe Lasts, M/S Foot Form.

11.G.A Charistie (1973)”Simplified Lasting Systems”.J.BBSI.

12.Steve cross. (1995) “Heat setting in Modern Shoe factories” SATRA.

13.Venkatappaiah.B.(1994) “Adhesives in Shoe Manufacture”. Publication of CLRI Chennai.

14. Venkatappaiah.B.(1993)” Shoe Finishes”. Publication of CLRI Chennai.

15. Manual (1973)”Simplified lasting system-String lasting”J.BBSI.

16. Mark Southam (1994)”Force and String lasting” SATRA.U K

12. Any other information/ guidelines for implementation

: 1. Factory visits to atleast three factories manufacturing Full shoes should be arranged.

2. Focus should be on providing adequate practice for developing the skill, teaching related theory to the required extent.

Appendix I

Page 7 of 21

Module - 11. Title of the Module : Tools, Materials & Accessories for Shoe

Lasting and Finishing

2. Module Competencies : On completion of the Module the trainee will be able to:

(1) Specify the function of each tool

(2) Select the appropriate tool for a given job

(3) Specify the function of materials and accessories required for shoe making

(4) Select the appropriate materials & accessories for a given job

3. Knowledge components (Theory) : Tools required for shoe making

Materials & their physical properties- Toe puff- Counter stiffeners- In-soles- Shank- Out soles- Heels

Classification of Last- Solid block- Slidometric hinge last- Scoop last- Telescopic last

Different types of Adhesives - Rubber based- Solvent based- Water based

Accessories required for shoe making- Tacks & Nails- Shoe Lace- Shoe finishes

o Waxo Cleaners and Refreshers

4. Practical Skills : Practice in choosing appropriate

(i) Last for a specific style

(ii) Tools for a specific job

(iii) Materials for a given purpose

(iv)Accessories for a specific job

5. Instructional Hours : Theory : 48 hours

Page 8 of 21

Practical : 24 hours

6. Performance criteria for assessment

: Selection of appropriate (i) Last, (ii) Tool, (iii) Material and (iv) Accessories for a given job.

7. Reference materials : 1. S.S. Dutta, (1980) “Introduction to the Principle of leather Manufacture” Kolkatta.- Indian Leather Technologist Association.

2. B.Venkatappaiah, (1997), ”Introduction to modern footwear technology” Chennai. -GOTETI GRAPHICS.

3. Gillibrand, J.(1969) Coated fabrics and shoe industry, J of BBSI.

4. Ganga Radakrishnan,(1993) Polymers in Footwear Manufacture. Publication of Indian Leather, Chennai.

“

Page 9 of 21

Appendix – II

Module - 2

1. Title of the Module : Machines & Equipments for Shoe Lasting and Finishing

2. Module Competencies : On completion of the Module the trainee will be able to acquire the skills of operating the following shoe making machines:

- Toe puff attaching

- Counter moulding

- Mulling

- Toe lasting

- Side and seat lasting

- Bottom roughing

- Sole attachment

- Sole stitching

- Brushing and polishing

3. Knowledge components (Theory) : Working principles of the following shoe making machines

- Toe puff attaching

- Counter moulding

- Mulling

- Toe lasting


- Bottom roughing

- Heat reactivation

- Sole attachment

- Sole stitching


4. Practical Skills : Practice on operating the following machines:- Toe puff attaching

- Counter moulding

- Mulling

- Toe lasting


- Bottom roughing

- Heat reactivation

- Sole attachment

- Sole stitching


Page 10 of 21

5. Instructional Hours : Theory : 40 hours



: 1. Skills of operating the machines

2. Speed of operating the machines

3. Adopting safety precautions

7. Reference materials : 1. G.A Charistie (1973)”Simplified Lasting Systems”.J.BBSI.

2. Steve cross. (1995) “Heat setting in Modern Shoe factories” SATRA. UK

Page 11 of 21

Appendix – III

Module - 3

1. Title of the Module : Practice on hand lasting methods

2. Module Competencies : On completion of the module, the trainee will be able to perform the following lasting operations:

- Insole attachment- Barestrap lasting- Vamp lasting- Fullstrap lasting- Toe puff attachment- Counter moulding- Shoe upper lasting- Roughing operations

3. Knowledge components (Theory) : Insole attachment techniques Toe puff attaching methods Counter stiffener attachment &

moulding Drafting principles Pulling over concepts Importance of Roughing methods

4. Practical Skills : Practice on - Insole attachment- Barestrap lasting- Vamp lasting- Fullstrap lasting- Toe puff attachment- Counter stiffener attachment &

moulding - Shoe upper lasting- Roughing operations

5. Instructional HoursTheory

:8 hours



: Accuracy and Speed of performing the following operations :

- toe puff attaching - counter moulding - insole attaching - hand lasting- roughing

Page 12 of 21

7. Reference materials : 1. S.S.Dutta, (1980) “Physical Testing Of Leather” Kolkatta.- Indian Leather Technologist Association.

2. R.G.Miller, (1989) “Manual of shoe making” England-Clarks ltd.

3. Somenath Ganguly, 2005, “Comprehensive Footwear Technology” Kolkatta. - Indian Leather Technologist Association.

4. G.A Charistie (1973) “Simplified Lasting Systems”.J.BBSI.

Page 13 of 21

Appendix – IV

Module - 4

1. Title of the Module : Practice on Lasting machines

2. Module Competencies : On completion of the module, the trainee will be able to

Perform the insole attachments

Perform the operations in:- Toe lasting machines- Seat lasting machines- Side lasting machines- Combined lasting machines

Prepare the lasted shoe upper

3. Knowledge components (Theory) : Classification of insoles- Built insole- Extended insole- Insole with rib- Insole with runner

Various types of lasting machines- Toe lasting- Seat lasting- Side lasting- Combined seat and side lasting

Various types of lasting techniques- Cement lasting- String lasting- Force lasting

4. Practical Skills : Practice on attaching insoles

Practice on the following lasting machines

- Toe lasting machines- Seat lasting machines- Side lasting machines- Combined lasting machines

Preparing the lasted shoe upper

5. Instructional Hours

Theory : 40 hours


Page 14 of 21


: 1) Accuracy and Speed of performing the following operations:

- Toe lasting machines- Seat lasting machines- Side lasting machines- Combined lasting machines

2) Quality of the lasted shoe upper

7. Reference materials : 1. R.G.Miller, (1989) “Manual of shoe making” England-Clarks ltd.

2. Somenath Ganguly, (2005), “Comprehensive Footwear Technology” Kolkatta. - Indian Leather Technologist Association.

3. G.A Charistie (1973) “Simplified Lasting Systems”.J.BBSI.

4. S.S.Dutta, (1980) “Physical Testing Of Leather” Kolkatta.- Indian Leather Technologist Association.

5. Manual (1973) “Simplified lasting system-String lasting” J.BBSI.

6. Mark Southam (1994) “Force and String lasting” SATRA.U K

Page 15 of 21

Appendix – V

Module - 5

1. Title of the Module : Practice on various types of shoe construction

2. Module Competencies : On completion of the Module, the trainee will be able to perform the following:

Conditioning of Lasted upper- Pounding- Bottom roughing

Conditioning of Soles- Roughening- Halogenation

Shoe constructions:- Cemented - Moccasin- Veldtschoen- Welted - Moulded

3. Knowledge components (Theory) : Conditioning of Lasted upper- Pounding- Bottom roughing


Various construction techniques- Cemented - Moccasin- Veldtschoen- Welted - Moulded

4. Practical Skills : Practice on the following operations:

Conditioning of Lasted upper- Pounding- Bottom roughing


Page 16 of 21

Construction techniques such as:- Cemented - Moccasin- Sewn


Theory : 120 hours



: 1) Accuracy, quality and speed in conditioning of lasted upper and soles

2) Accuracy and speed in performing the following construction techniques:

- Cemented - Moccasin- Sewn

7. Reference materials : 1. Steve cross. (1995) “Heat setting in Modern Shoe factories” SATRA.UK

2. Venkatappaiah.B. (1994) “Adhesives in Shoe Manufacture”. Publication of CLRI Chennai.

Page 17 of 21

Appendix – VIModule - 6

1. Title of the Module : Practice on shoe finishing operations

2. Module Competencies : On completion of the Module, the trainee will be able to

1) Perform the various techniques of shoe finishing

2) Select the shoe finishes for various upper materials of shoe

3) Select the shoe finishes for various soles of shoe

3. Knowledge components (Theory) : 1) Various unit operations in shoe upper finishing:

Cleaning Hot air treeing Shoe upper dressing Attachment of accessories Sole branding

2) Various unit operations in shoe bottom finishing:

Heel pairing Heel Scouring Edge pairing Stain heels Bottom polish Heel burnish

3) Various types of shoe finishing materials required for different types of shoe uppers

4. Practical Skills : Practice on the following operations:

1) Various unit operations in shoe upper finishing:

Cleaning Hot air treeing Shoe upper dressing Attachment of accessories Sole branding

2) Various unit operations in shoe bottom Page 18 of 21

finishing: Heel pairing Heel Scouring Edge pairing Stain heels Bottom polish Heel burnish

3) Identifying the shoe finishing materials required for different types of shoe uppers


Theory : 24 hours



: 1) Accuracy, quality and speed in shoe upper finishing operations

2) Accuracy, quality and speed in shoe bottom finishing operations

3) Quality of the finished shoe

7. Reference materials : 1. Venkatappaiah.B.(1993) “Shoe Finishes” - Publication of CLRI Chennai.

2. Ganga Radakrishnan,(1993) “Polymers in Footwear Manufacture” - Publication of Indian Leather, Chennai..

Page 19 of 21

Appendix – VIIModule - 7

1. Title of the Module : Quality Control measures in shoe lasting and finishing

2. Module Competencies : On completion of the module, the trainee will be able to:

- Understand the principles of quality management

- Understand the acceptable quality standards for full shoe

- Understand the process of material handling for full shoe

3. Knowledge components (Theory) : - Principles of quality management

- Quality parameters of full shoe

- In-process quality control for full shoe

- Conveyor systems

Linear

Modular

- Material handling system in full shoe making

- Familiarization with quality standards of branded shoes

4. Practical Skills : Practice on

quality parameters of full shoe - color matching

- grain matching

- defects

- back height

- side height

- sole attachment

- cleaning & finishing

In-process quality control for full shoe operations

- Counter moulding

- Toe lasting


- Roughing

- Cementing

- Sole attaching

- Finishing

Page 20 of 21

5. Instructional HoursTheory : 24 hours

Practical : 8 hours


: - Identification of quality aspects of shoe upper

- Identification of quality aspects of lasted upper

- Identification of quality aspects of finished shoe

7. Reference materials : 1. R.G.Miller, (1989) “Manual of shoe making” England-Clarks ltd.

2. Somenath Ganguly, (2005), “Comprehensive Footwear Technology” Kolkatta.- Indian Leather Technologist Association.

3. B.Venkatappaiah, (1997), “Introduction to modern footwear technology” Chennai. -GOTETI GRAPHICS

4. J.H.Thornton, (1970), “Text book of footwear manufacture” London. -National Trade Press

5. NL, “Footwear Materials and process Technology” , Newzealand-Leather and Shoe research Association.

Page 21 of 21

Documents

Shoe Lasting and Finishing