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FASHION, BEFORE IT HAPPENS “Dream as if you’ll live forever. Live as if you’ll die today” - JAMES DEAN Autumn 2012 Issue 001 £6 AUTUMN Edition Winter

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I wrote an style article for a student's final year project. The article is about men's travel bags.

Text of Stature Magazine

  • Fashion, BeFore it happens

    Dream as if youll live forever. Live as if youll die today- James Dean

    Autumn 2012 Issue 001 6


  • matthew hutchingseDitor

    contributing writers

    amy miles

    Kylie nye

    mel wylie

    Julia sumi

    JacK wetherill

    JinKs rose

    sarah FranKlanD

    Katie smith

    aDam bell

    runwilD meDia group

    7 Heron Quay

    Canary Wharf



    E14 4JB

    Tel: 44+ ( 0)20 7987 4320

    Email: [email protected]

    Dream as iF youll live Forever. live as iF youll Die toDay

    - James Dean

    2 |OCTOBER 2012

  • Oct


    1 FromEditorthe

    OCTOBER 2012|3

    editors Letter

    H ello, and welcome to you, Statures first readers.When we first though of Stature many moons ago, we realised that there was room for a new mens fashion magazine. A luxury magazine that delivered premium content to its city-dwelling

    readers; one that talked intelligently about fashion. A magazine that wasnt just pic-

    tures, but wasnt just text either. We realised that there was room for Stature, and now, many moons later, I look back at what we have created for you, and try to describe it.

    Each page has been designed with you in mind, and our editorial team have worked

    tirelessly to deliver the best quality content on all things fashion. Product features,

    Seasonal style, grooming products, Designers and Fashion gone by - its all covered,

    and all by our inhouse and freelance expert fashion writers, so you know that what

    youre reading is bang on trend.

    So there it is; a desperately short summary of the very first issue of Stature magazine. Alas, the perils of being an Editor, and having just a short few hundred words to talk

    to you each issue. I look forward to talking to you more over the years, though, and

    as we grow, I hope you too will join us on our journey and grow with us.

    My colleagues hope you can see that Stature really is more than just a fashion magazine its an entire lifestyle in the palms of your hands. From all of the Stature Team here in London Welcome to the club.

    Enjoy, Matt

  • KilgourEstablished 1882

  • ContentsOctober 2012

    The Stature of Savile RowQuality, luxury, bespoke. Jack Wetherill celebrates

    the history of this historic fashion street.

    The Holy TrinityOur writers get to grips wit three of the best design-

    ers Britain has to offer - up and coming, national

    treasures - well be covering them all in the coming


    Fashion Past

    Best Of British

    Season StyleWinter Style Essentials

    From classic coats to suave scarfs, our winter

    fashion correspodent has you covered for all eventu-alities.

    Season StyleA/W 2013 - What to ExpectStature gives you our expert opinion on what to

    expect from next seasons line-up.

    Style FeatureTop 5 on Fancy Footwear

    Rose Jinks cover footwear for all ocassions - whether youre hitting the town or kicking back for the night

    GroomingScent and the City

    Rose Jinks cover footwear for all ocassions - whether youre hitting the town or kicking back for the night

    Style FeatureMr. Continental

    Our writers get to grips wit three of the best design-ers Britain has to offer - up and coming, national

    treasures - well be covering them all in the coming









    OCTOBER 2012|5

  • SCENTthe

    andcityWith the neW season and the Winter trends just around the corner its time to bring

    your look up to date. it often takes perfumers years to develop a scent and every

    eau spreads its very oWn unique atmosphere and embodies a Whole lifestyle. fol-

    loW statures guide on this seasons fragrances and be seductive and sensual one day,

    sophisticated and urban the other.

    Bond No. 9, Andy WarholLonging for a fragrance that spreads the scent of bo-ho-chic and iconic artistry? Andy Warhol, launched in 2011, the latest release of the Bond No. 9 series dedi-cated to the artist, is an intellectual and sophisticated scent for the urban man. Perfect for cultural events and gallery strolls the predominant aroma Bergamot makes the fragrance Mad Men-esque and irresistibly classy-stylish. The bottle features a photo-booth por-trait of Warhol wearing dark sunglasses and a trench coat.

    Amouage, ReflectionThe fragrance Reflection by Amouage is the em-bodiment of the high art of seduction. The House of Amouage are famous for their oriental-mystical bouquet and so is Reflection. Woody and floral si-multaneously, its perfect to wear on a romantic date and the scent to go for if you plan to twist your lady around your little finger. Like every mens fragrance by Amouage, Reflection comes in a flacon, which has the shape of Khanjar, the traditional dagger of Oman, and an embossed Jacquard pattern. De luxe.

    by Julia sumi

    8 |OCTOBER 2012

  • Lavin, Avant-GardeAvant-Garde by Lavin is both a timeless and modern fragrance that underlines the character of the successful man of the 21st century. With its subtle flavour characterised by oriental and woody aromas it acts discreetly in the background and is per-fectly suitable for a day at work. The modesty and elegance of Avant-Garde is supported by the straight and clean design of its flacon.

    Fragonard, MensongeMensonge by Fragonard launched in 2005 though is the perfect me time scent. Grapefruit, ginger and green leaves make it a light, airy and particularly fresh flavour. Making you feel relaxed and cosy Mensonge is a wellbe-ing fragrance best worn at home after a pleasant and calming bubble bath on a freezing winter day. Elegance and softness are the main characteristics of fruity and floral Mensonge. The mod-ern and clean packaging of the cologne and its matt silver bottle are plain and simple just as the scent itself.

    Roja, ScandalScandal - as its name implies - is not for the faint-hearted. Its a scent for when its dark outside, a party scent to dance the night away. Scandals peppery and ar-omatic bouquet is based on ba-sil, lavender and selected spices. Sensual, teasing and sexy this complex fragrance launched in 2011 turns the night into day. The black and gold noble pack-aging expresses exclusiveness and the appearance reflects the content perfectly. Scandal is the first mens fragrance by Roja and its a real success. The effect of the perfume is unpredictable so be careful when you apply it - or simply enjoy.

    OCTOBER 2012|9



  • LONDONAt Park Lane

    Hamilton PlaCe

    Park lane



    W1J 7dr

    tel. 44 (0) 20 7499-0888

    Fax. 44 (0) 20 7493-1895

  • B

  • estOfritishBDesigners

    fashion is about more than the clothes We Wear. its about a persons identity;

    its an expression of Who We are - Why We are the Way We are, and celebrating

    it. its about communicating these ideas to the people around us, and meeting

    other like-minded people that Wear their clothes to do the same. and some-

    times, its about the designers that made them.britain produces some of the

    finest fashion designers in the World. best of british designers is a regular

    feature giving you that chance to learn their story.

  • NicollMaking an impact on the world of fashion this season is

    London born Richard Nicoll, already been named Best young

    designer at the Elle style awards at London fashion week

    SS09, Richard Nicoll is a name which is becoming more and

    more well known. Since graduating from central St Martins

    in 2002 Nicoll had worked alongside Marc Jacobs at Louis

    Vuttion and then went on to become creative director at

    Cerruti in Paris. With a successful fashion blog for Vogue.com

    and his own fashion line making us stand up and take notice

    his career is taking off at full speed. He was awarded three

    ANDAM prizes in 2008. He has also been appointed design

    director for Fred Perrys premium line as well as releasing his

    7th best-selling capsule collection for Topshop and this is

    all the past 12 months. Prior to his success in fashion design

    Nicoll worked in advertising as a group account director.

    With his latest mens wear collection Nicoll tried to create his

    ideal wardrobe, something he himself would want to wear.

    The fact he was a menswear student at Central St Martins

    obviously paid off as his spring 2013 collection reflects this

    amazing talent. Smart casual clothing is the name of the game,

    with a mix of clean cut whites, loose fitting smart trousers and

    hoodies he has catered to every mans needs in the wardrobe

    dept. Just when you think you have Richard Nicoll all figured

    out and put down as just another average designer with a

    signature look of shirts and smart wear he goes and throws

    in a splash of bright blues and show stopping patterns. The

    designer shows his versatility through this collection. Short

    listed for BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund and with high

    profile clients such as the beautiful Kiera Knightly this young

    British designers career is only going to get better.

    So whether you want a smart yet casual look, a trendy yet

    sporty look or a show stopping, heads turning outfit, Richard

    Nicoll seems to be the man that can provide this.


    You have to be instinctive

    about your ideas and what youre


    by Kylie nye

    14 |OCTOBER 2012

  • OCTOBER 2012|15

  • Patrick Grants story is one of a man who has seemingly done

    everything. Born in Edinburgh, he gained a degree in material

    sciences at Leeds University. After several years of working in

    a variety of jobs in many different countries, Grant went on to

    attend Said Business School in Oxford where he studied for a

    Masters in Business Administration. Switch now to Savile Row,

    the tireless cutting, stitching and pressing of garments seeming-

    ly a millions miles away from business school...

    Savile Row boasts the largest collection of acclaimed tailors

    at the top of their game, and has done so for well over 100

    years. Norton and Sons is certainly no exception. This bespoke

    tailor has called Savile Row home since the 1860s (having been

    founded 1821 on the Strand). Their long standing reputation

    as a well respected sporting tailor speaks for itself when you

    look at their cliental; suiting the likes of Winston Churchill,

    Frank Sinatra, royal families around the world, and several US

    Presidents. In spite of this, back in 2005, the company had not yet

    been swept up in Savile Rows new bespoke movement. Business

    dwindled, and other tailors on the Row were taking precedence over

    Norton and Sons.

    That was, until Patrick Grant bought the tailors after spotting an advertise-

    ment in a newspaper. Having never worked in fashion before, but spurred

    on by a lifelong love of clothing, selling everything he had for this was a

    real leap of faith...

    Since Grant became director in 2005, the last seven years have seen a

    phenomenal rise in business for Norton and Sons; cutting on average, just

    under 300 hundred suits per year. The company has been restored to its

    former glory. The tailors work on beautiful, classic and simple garments

    Your mother can provide comfortyour clothes should make you look


  • PatrickGrantfor many a fine gentleman, with the utmost attention paid to

    fabric sourcing and perfection in details.

    Indeed, the tailors success has been so great, that Grant

    was able to relaunch one of the

    companys formerly incorporated

    houses; E. Tautz, in 2009. The

    ready-to-wear subsidiary has

    seen huge success in the three

    short years it has been operating.

    In 2010, Grant won the British

    Fashion Award for Menswear

    Designer of the Year for his work

    at the house, and in May 2012 E.

    Tautz was a winner in the Fashion Forward initiative scheme,

    enabling the house to show at the new mens fashion week in

    June. It is clear to see why when one takes a look at the brands

    Spring/Summer 2013 collection; pristinely cut suits and coats

    are interspersed with bright pops of beautiful colour. Fabric

    is key here, and from the way the garments move on the

    catwalk it is clear that this collection is of the highest quality.

    Perfectly fitted bright shorts and lightweight trench coats give

    the collection a fresh edge, making it appealing to gentlemen

    of any age.

    E. Tautz has collaborated twice in the last year with shoe

    designers John Lobb and Harrys of London; the latter being

    presented on the runway during the Spring/Summer 2013

    collection. Pink and blue shoes complimented the collection

    perfectly, finishing it off and showing that an eye for detail is

    what its all about. Anyone can see from his work at both E.

    Tautz and Norton and Sons that Grant has a real love of fine

    traditions - fast fashion is not what style is about. Quality, not

    quantity, is his message from Savile Row.

    In 2012, menswear is more im-

    portant now than it has been since

    the sixties. The first ever London

    mens fashion week took place in

    June, and finally the modern Savile

    Row holds appeal for all kinds of

    men, of all different ages. Patrick

    Grant has been instrumental

    in bringing menswear to the

    forefront of fashion; rebranding

    a failing company and relaunching another, creating two

    fine examples of menswear that is both sophisticated and

    sartorially inspiring. Grants belief that every man should be

    well-dressed has stood him in fine stead for a successful future

    in fashion and tailoring, as well as being an inspiration to many

    aspiring designers and dapper gentleman alike.

    Rumour has it that Grant could be about to launch a wom-

    enswear line for E. Tautz, that according to his girlfriend,

    jewelry designer Katie Hillier, who is pushing for something

    to wear herself. The future for Patrick Grant looks promising;

    he continues to direct both Norton and Sons and E. Tautz,

    business for the houses continues to grow, and he is sure to

    make an equally impressive mark at the next fashion week.

    Grant has a real love of fine traditions - fast fash-

    ion is not what style is about

    by amy miles

    OCTOBER 2012|17

    Best oF British

  • OswaldBoateng

    Known for his unique twist on classic British bespoke

    tailoring, Ozwald Boateng was born in Muswell Hill, London

    in 1967. His impressive career in the fashion industry began

    when he opened a studio on the Portobello Road in 1991,

    aged just 23, and he hasnt looked back since.

    Going from strength to strength, Boateng went on to present

    his catwalk show to a global audience in Paris, 1994, and later

    that year opened his first store on Vigo Street, just off the

    legendary Savile Row, earning Boateng the reputation for

    bringing a new brand of bespoke tailoring to the street. This

    Bespoke Couture, as Boateng affectionately named it, would

    exemplify what the tailor is known for today: bringing art,

    architecture and fashion together into wearable styles worn by

    men of all ages around the world.

    The internationally acclaimed designer has won a plethora

    of awards for his work, including the Lifetime Achievement

    Award from Arise Magazine, one of Africas finest global style magazines, and in 2011 was awarded an Honarary Degree by

    the University for the Creative Arts for his contributions to


    Anyone can wear any colour.The

    question is about finding the right


    by Francesca nieDzielsKi

    OCTOBER 2012|19

    Best oF British

  • Rien nest trop beau.

    20 |OCTOBER 2012

  • Rien nest trop cher.


  • Come

    Flywith us...

  • continentalMr

  • continental

    A man whos fashion knows its limit in terms of style, shape and fabric has the right to be the bag man. His

    cash knows no limit but he is clever to understand

    the practicality of what he is


    Design has come along way for

    men and its now time for men

    to follow through the concept/

    style that a designer has created.

    The era of the murse man has

    officially arrived.

    Take a long look at your wardrobe what are you

    missing in relation to the travel bag? This had to be

    the bag that is versatile, compliments your style and

    your personality. Fashion has its own language as

    does human behaviour, conveying to the opposite

    sex or peers what your about or what makes you

    tick. So here are our top tips to get you started,

    Follow the latest fashion trends according to your

    body shape, looks and age. Your first thought may

    be that the talk about shapes is a womans thing

    men have body shapes as well! Dont go for an

    oversized bag if it oversizes you! Be practical it

    should be in proportion to your height and weight.

    Which leads us to our next tip, designers offer a

    lifestyle in the form of clothes, decide where you

    belong, this will only empower your look further.

    If your life in general is luxurious and you can af-

    ford the finer things then you

    can turn to designers such as

    Ralph Lauren, Burberry and


    Finally remain true to

    yourself. It may look good

    on the runway or the shop

    window but does it look

    good on you!?

    Fashion is a huge enforcer of what you stand for,

    your beliefs and values dont settle for second best!

    The bag man wouldnt take anything other then

    the best!

    The era of the murse man has

    officially arrived.

    do you see yourself With a travel bag? designed by gucci, burberry

    or paul smith? most of all do you see yourself as the murse man?

    OCTOBER 2012|25

    styLe Feature

  • The Gucci Goldmark Jacquard Duffle bag is a

    classic example of current trend of patterns, print

    and the distressed leather look taking centre stage

    in accessories. It has an inside pocket and two

    smart phone pockets which is clearly targeted

    for the business bag man. With a height of

    35cm it is perfect for the in the rush bag man,

    to quickly pack everything in with ease. Only

    essentials please!!

    On the Market

    Now to look at it more

    closely. Look at your

    calendar what have you

    got to look forward too?

    Weekends away abroad or are

    you staying home? If your

    heading abroad you have the

    luxury to be a little bit more

    colourful the jet set bag

    man. Everyone likes colour

    when they go on holiday its

    like an unwritten code and

    this seasons colour is in the

    form of patterns and prints

    so take note.

    If your staying close to home

    for most of the autumn/win-

    ter the key things to look out

    for is what type of holiday is

    it touristy? Is it hiking? You

    can still be fashionable on

    top of a mountain! The bag

    to wear this autumn/winter

    is the back pack. Its back in

    fashion and looking as sleek

    as ever.

    Lets have a look whats out



    Gucci Goldmark Jacquard Duffle

    Burberry Suade Patchword Holdall

    Burberry is also creating waves with the suede patchwork holdall. A real modern

    man/successful guy bag. This man provides a great lifestyle and stability and has a nice car, nice house and more importantly he is in need of a nice bag!! The choice of fabrics is something to compete with; velvet soft suede, leather and satin, so no wonder it has a true bag man asking price. It has some treats including the vintage details. The colours and shape of this bag are classically masculine perfect for making a statement whilst keeping you in the forefront of fashion trends.


    26 |OCTOBER 2012

  • All these bags are available online but be wary they might be out of stock (because there a HOT ticket), but I am a keen enforcer of primary shopping, head to the store! There is nothing like seeing the bag in real

    life, you can get a feel for the fabric, check all the treats the bag has in stall for you! Also taking a long look in the mirror with the bag is also encouraged how else will you know if it looks good. BE AWARE of sales consultants they will try to sell you anything! Stick to your guns about what you know will be comfortable and wearable for


    One of many mens favourite designers is Paul Smith his collections are easily stated as cool and current. So this bag is made for the regular cool

    and current customer, always down to earth, loyal and stable, who works hard.

    If your not one to be flamboyant this is the bag for you from Paul

    Smiths Boston collection. In a sleek grey and black colour scheme, this epitomizes masculinity with a fashion twist. The placing of the leather trimmings is unique and eye appealing. Perfect for the bag man. With two large zip compartments, shoulder straps, side compartments and interior pockets what more could we ask from a bag! Its size is a little shorter then the Gucci bag and you may have to be a little more conscious in how much you pack but if youre a gadget bag man this is perfect for you with compartments for


    If you have been following trends in mens fashion then you certainly have seen the back pack come back!! This is another victory item from Burberry. The large cotton canvas backpack is ideal for the

    adventurer bag man that needs something hard wearing, durable and stylish. This man is always looking for the next fun and exciting experience, think James Bond!

    The back pack as all the safety features with the invisible drawcord and multiple pockets and with the choice of colours you really can coordinate with your current wardrobe. Perfect for hiking weekends away or exploring the ancient ruins of European cities. Packing for the day and the night has been made easy with this backpack.

    Burberry Cotton Canvas Backpack 3

    Burberry Cotton Canvas Backpack 4

    OCTOBER 2012|27

  • F irst off, and prob-ably above all else, you need a winter coat. Some will be cringing at

    the thought of a winter coat, but dont

    worry, not all are hideous! Be sure to

    stay away from anything that will make

    you look like a mountain hiker.

    The perfect coat this season is some-

    thing quite tailored and classic, which

    will also keep you warm and toasty. The

    Martingala Con Gilet from Loro Piana

    is very acceptable. The tweed cashmere

    coat is designed in a two-tone diagonal

    weave fabric, which is right on trend for

    the season. It also features a black fabric

    lining under the collar, which, when

    popped, gives a new, fresh take on this

    classic coat.

    If you do want something that will be

    a little more waterproof ,then Aquas-

    cutum is the answer. Looking at the

    Aquascutum Belted Aquamac Raincoat,

    it looks no different to any other

    beautifully crafted raincoat. However,

    the Aquamac is made using special

    technical fabrics to keep you extra

    dry. The classic trench coat cut of this

    garment means you will be using this for

    the next two decades or more. The coat

    falls mid length and is the definition of

    luxury, with genuine corozo buttons,

    and beautiful leather buckles on the

    waist and on the cuffs. Whatever your

    outfit, this is a definite must have.

    Although that winter coat will keep you

    warm, itd be a good idea to invest in

    one or two pieces of knitwear. Printed

    sweaters and cardigans are big right now,

    but you dont have to spend the winter

    months looking like Christmas number

    one fan. Simple and plain is the way to

    go, especially when making an invest-

    ment in a piece. AMI has a stunning

    mustard coloured jumper available, and

    is an essential when it comes to giving

    Winter is just around the corner, and from the summer Weather so far, Were approach-ing that corner hard and fast. as the seasons change, your Wardrobe should do the same in order to keep you up to date and bang on trend this Winter. With statures

    guide to Winter style essentials, you cant go Wrong When dressing for the Weather.

    Essentialsby aDam bell

    28 |OCTOBER 2012

  • OCTOBER 2012|29


  • your bland winter wardrobe just the

    slightest pop of colour. This luxury

    piece will benefit you in unimaginable


    If you want a more interesting sweater,

    Wooyoungmi has the answer. The

    Wooyoungmi Contrast-sleeve Wool-

    blend Sweater puts a twist on the

    traditional knitwear

    piece, and makes it

    more of a state-

    ment piece. Plain

    black wool-blend

    arms accompany

    the cable-knit

    rollneck body.

    This is definitely

    a must-have,

    however, when wearing this piece, do so

    skillfully and keep the rest of your outfit

    understated. Let this amazing piece

    speak for itself.

    That guy who smirks and proclaims

    that men dont need scarves hes

    wrong. Besides the winter coat, a man

    cannot go through these cold harsh

    days without his scarf. You can either

    invest in a plain neutral colour to match

    all of your outfits, or treat yourself to a

    selection of exciting colours. Which ever

    you decide to do, Gucci is the way to go.

    If angels could sew, weave and produce

    scarves then sell them to millions, these

    would be the scarves. They are woven

    from light-as-air silk to match the Italian

    brands luxurious demeanor. In all

    fairness, any Gucci scarf will do! Two

    absolute must-have pieces, however, are

    the Iris Print Silk Scarf, black and grey

    in colour with a beautiful, hand-finished

    print. The second is the Gucci Printed

    Silk Scarf, in a rich

    forest-green with

    a faded printed

    design, available

    from Mr Porter.

    Again, if you

    want to spend a

    little more and you

    like very graphic

    printed pieces, head

    straight for the

    Alexander McQueen. If none of these

    happen to be your style, any good plain

    cashmere scarf would be perfect for

    warmth and style.

    Now, lets talk about one often forgotten

    area the hands. Gloves are absolutely

    required for your winter outings. Try

    and go for a leather or sheepskin pair.

    Think about the perfect gloves being

    like Ugg boots for your hands. They

    need to be snug, warm, and let you get

    the job done. Always invest in a good

    pair of gloves, because theres nothing

    worse than unarticulated fingers and

    That guy who smirks and pro-claims that men

    dont need scarves hes wrong

    Aquascutum - Belted Aquamac Raincoat

    Loro Piana - Martingala Con Gilet

    30 |OCTOBER 2012

    Featured Items

  • thumbs when wearing ill-fitting gloves.

    Paul Smiths Sheepskin Gloves are the

    way to go. They come in chocolate

    brown and feature a light sky blue

    visible stitching. The visible stitching

    adds a new depth and modern feel to

    the otherwise traditional-looking- glove.

    You are a Stature man. And because of

    this, it would only

    be right to assume

    you take great pride

    in your appearance.

    Well, why have it

    ruined by snow,

    sleet and hail? What

    you need is an um-

    brella. But not just

    any old umbrella,

    you deserve better.

    The Duck Handle Striped Walking Um-

    brella from Burberry. Need I say more?

    As if the name itself isnt enough, this

    umbrella is a brilliant statement. It

    comes with a beautifully crafted, maple

    wooden duck head handle, hand-carved

    by an Italian craftsman. This piece

    comes in two colours: Dark Turquoise,

    or Chocolate. The Chocolate colour will

    go with just about everything. However,

    the Dark Turquoise is just that dash of

    colour your winter wardrobe needs! It

    is 100% polyester and is easy to care

    for, just wipe clean with a damp cloth.

    Its easy and beautiful, as well as being a

    great topic of conversation.

    Finally, ask yourself one question. When

    the day is over, does your lifestyle have

    to stop? The answer is, and always

    should be, No. The perfect pair of

    winter PJs are essential. Theyre great

    for your wife, girlfriend, or partner to

    look at, but more

    importantly, they

    will make you

    feel indescribable.

    Available from

    Mr Porter, the

    Derek Rose Striped

    Cotton Pyjama

    set is ideal for lazy

    Sunday mornings

    with breakfast in

    bed, or late nights by the fire with a

    good old book. Although the brand isnt

    as well-know and commercial as other,

    it has been creating its fine quality night-

    wear since 1926. This particular pair of

    pyjamas is made from cotton-poplin

    and features satin stripes and multiple


    So, your winter essentials are

    sorted. But you dont have to stop

    there. Try out hats, sheepskin boots

    and get looking for the perfect winter

    bag. With this guide as your base, you

    cant go wrong this coming winter.

    Try out hats, sheepskin boots and get looking for the perfect winter bag

    Wooyoungmi - Contrast-sleeve Wool-

    blend Sweater

    Gucci - Iris Print silk scarf

    OCTOBER 2012|31


  • S avile Row is the home of bespoke tailoring. The Mayfair street is known worldwide for its high quality of suits and tailored items, and many great men Winston

    Churchill, Napoleon and Mohammed Ali

    to name just a few have been

    measured up there.

    The word bespoke is said to

    originate from the Golden

    Mile of Tailoring itself.

    Stemming from to be

    spoken for, the term refers

    to a suit specifically fit for

    an individual customer.

    But Savile Row, or Savile Street as it was originally,

    and its bespoke creations were not always as iconic.

    The Row was created in the fall of the 17th Century

    by the Earl of Burlington and stands in what

    were the gardens of the Burlington Estate. Mrs

    Burlington, Dorothy Savile, was given the honour

    of having the street named after her. Hundreds of

    years later and everyone still knows her name, well

    her surname at least. Originally only the east side

    of the street was built on with the west being left

    as gardens. It officially became Savile Row over

    100 years after its birth. Although the west side was

    built on afterwards, leaving those who changed the

    name from street to row slightly bemused. Maybe.

    Tailors did not appear on the street until around

    1785, with the purpose of Savile Street being for

    Staturethe oF

    by JacK wetherill

  • military homes. By the early 1800s, though, many

    more tailors had popped up.

    Mr. Henry Poole was credited as the founder of

    Savile Row as a tailoring area in the 1840s after he

    opened a second entrance to his fathers tailors at

    No. 32. He was of course taking someone elses

    glory as there were already many tailors established

    there. The row has, as one would expect, changed

    significantly since

    its creation, both in

    terms of building and

    tailoring. Only eight

    of the original houses

    still stand and the

    number of tailors on

    the street has decreased

    over time. The rise in rent prices in the area and

    the rise in large chain stores may have caused the

    drop in the number of bespoke tailors. There are

    now fewer than 20 tailors in the street, yet Savile

    Row remains one of the finest places in the world

    for tailor-made suits. Georgio Armani accused the

    row of falling behind on times, too, which that the

    stores still open are even more special and should

    be treasured. The Poole name is still recognised

    on Savile Row, though no longer at No. 32. Henry

    Poole & Co. moved from their original house after

    the expired and returned to the row in 1982 to No.


    A number of other tailors have been on the street

    since the 19th Century. H. Huntsman & Sons at

    No. 11 was established in 1849. Their designs now

    feature firm shoulders and a sculpted waist, much

    like the silhouette of a riding coat. Huntsman suits

    are known to have the most expensive starting

    prices for a two-piece suit generally over 3,000.

    But what is money when it comes to looking the

    best you can?

    Dege & Skinner, No. 10, has remained a fami-

    ly-run business since its establishment in 1865.

    It is known for an expertise in military as well as

    civilian clothing and is by royal appointment to Her

    Majesty Queen Elizabeth II, His Majesty the Sultan

    of Oman and His Majesty the King of Bahrain. It

    would be criminal to

    refuse anything fit for


    The merging of two

    separate tailoring hous-

    es saw the formation

    of Gieves & Hawkes,

    now at No. 1, in 19th Century. Whilst Gieves & Hawkes were suppliers

    who focused on the British Army and the Royal

    Navy, the merged house was the first to provide

    ready-to-wear clothes on Savile Row.

    One of the smallest outfits on the

    Row (only making 300 bespoke

    suits a year), Norton & Sons,

    was founded in 1821 at No. 16.

    Expect the finest from Norton

    & Sons, as their tailors all appren-

    ticed on Savile Row so tradition

    runs through their fingers

    into the cloth.


    faces have

    Savile Row remains one of the finest places in the

    world for tailor-made suits


    OCTOBER 2012|33

    Fashion past

  • emerged onto the row more recently, changing the traditions held so

    tightly in the past. This is, of course, a benefit to the street as now the

    new man who, perhaps, cares for fashion visits and takes part in the

    Savile Row experience.

    Ozwald Boateng brought his twist on the classic British tailoring style to

    Savile Row in 1995 and opened his flagship store at No. 30 in 2008. He is

    credited with attracting a younger generation to tailoring as a pioneer of

    the new bespoke movement. He coined the term bespoke couturier as

    he sees himself as a designer as well as a tailor. In addition to the bespoke

    tailoring service Boateng offers, he also produces two ready-to-wear

    collections a year which have been shown at London Fashion Week.

    If black or grey arent your colours, and they cant be everybodys, then a

    green or blue three piece may be more to your taste. Boateng has pushed

    the boundaries of what Savile Row is and revitalised what we expect of a


    The New Bespoke movement originated in the early 1990s when tailors

    attempted to bring a new air to the traditional styling associated with

    Savile Row. Boateng, along with Timothy Everest and Richard James

    wanted to break away from the stereotypical yet perfectly acceptable idea

    of Savile Row.

    They changed their shop fronts and used marketing and publicity to

    attract a younger audience. James, for example, introduced the alien

    idea of a Saturday opening to his store in 1992. God only knows

    what would happen if a Sunday opening was to happen.

    Core values of Savile Row were still important to these three

    revolutionaries of tailoring, which are customer service, fit and

    exclusivity. But they brought twists to the traditional suit, using

    contemporary silhouettes and bolder fabrics.

    Savile Row remains a haven for the modern man looking to

    add a timeless item of bespoke clothing to his wardrobe.

    Whether a traditional taste or a love of fashion, the famous

    street has an outfit to suit. Add a luxurious Savile Row

    finest to your wardrobe and hang it proudly beside your

    Armani or Ralph Lauren.

    The Golden Mile has long stood out as the place for

    tailoring, and should it continue for as long as a man

    needs a quality suit.

    34 |OCTOBER 2012

  • 5ootwearTopONancyFshoes are often described as a Womans favourite accessory -a World filled With plat-

    forms, Wedges, stilettos. but shoe designers famous for bringing glamour, opulence

    and individuality to the ladys Wardrobe are noW bringing their talents to the World

    of mens shoes. quirky footWear is increasingly becoming a personality trait distin-

    guisher for the modern gentleman. to illustrate the variety, and character, of this

    seasons shoe masterpieces, Weve put together the top 5 of the very best in fancy foot-

    Wear, so theres never an occasion Where your feet go amiss.

    by rose JinKs

  • 5ootwear

  • At first glance, these Christian

    Louboutins may be the last thing

    youd describe as classic, yet in their

    sophisticated shape they embody

    Louboutins signature evening wear

    style and would add a whole lot of

    quirk to a formal suit. The colour may

    be a little less subtle than the legendary

    red sole, but is striking and definitely

    wont stand unnoticed. Embellishment

    is a common feature at Louboutin, a

    way to bring attitude and glamour to

    shoes built upon simplistic brilliance in

    fit and style.

    If class, elegance and a more tradition-

    al style is more up your street, then

    look no further than Guccis Doyen

    Oxfords. Made in Italy and carrying

    the biggest-selling Italian brands

    craftsmanship and design excellence,

    these suede and python navy dress

    shoes are the classic statement of so-

    phistication. Suede is a delicate fabric,

    and mixed with the python toecap,

    these would have pride place in any

    shoe closet. Attention to detail is the

    key here. The navy of the suede, luxu-

    rious use of python and a monkstrap

    finished with silver hardware could not

    make for more a formal, yet charming

    pair of shoes. Not your ordinary black

    or brown Oxfords, the navy blue

    is a simple way to bring colour and

    originality to a prim three-piece suit.

    Pair with a classic black suit to keep

    you looking ahead of the game.

    Soft suede fabric isnt just suitable for

    eveningwear, Kurt Geiger have created

    the perfect style with this versatile

    material. The Caine boot is made of

    a slightly darker hue of navy than the

    monkstraps, giving a lot more versatili-

    ty to the pieces they can be worn with.

    With more durability in this derby

    boot style, a slight scuff here and there

    will only add to the character of such

    a simple, classic design. Personality can

    be added to these everyday cool shoes,

    whether theyre worn with jeans and a

    polo shirt or chinos and a more adven-

    turous shirt; these boots really will be

    a staple. Kurt Geiger offer shoes for

    a niche market and pride themselves

    on their strong design element that

    captures the very best of what those

    customers aiming for something just a

    little bit different want. A classic derby

    lace-up, with a little bit of colour

    clashing punch, these boots really are

    the right side of the niche market.

    Jeffrey West offer the highest quality

    in British shoemaking and have a

    distinctive style based upon a classic

    Victorian look with hints of gothic

    design and are perfectionists in leath-

    erwork. These cutting-edge Terence

    boots are just that - gothic glamour

    with a crease effect leather.

    Flamboyant in nature, these boots

    combine eccentric character to give

    this overall feel, and again, its atten-

    tion to the smallest of detail that set

    these aside from any other black leath-

    er boots. The lining colour, imprint on Christian Louboutins - Rollerboy Spikes

    Kurt Geiger - Caine Boot

  • the sole, skull studs - they all give these

    boots an unrivalled personality, and

    more so, the wearer. Complimenting

    the metallic hints of the leather can be

    worked with tones of grey in a struc-

    tured double-breasted suit to really

    combine prominence and status in

    dress. Theyre not a boot for the shy;

    such antique features arent popularly

    used in formal dress, yet at the right

    occasion, where personality and a little

    bit of eccentricity is admired, these

    delicately made boots have just the

    right amount of splendor if youre

    not afraid to flash your skulls.

    If a structured boot isnt your

    preferred style for eveningwear, then

    maybe make like Hugh Hefner with

    a more relaxed slipper. The evening

    slipper is becoming a definitive way to

    wear formal shoes; a certain comfort-

    able elegance yet still boasting a smart

    feel. This Jimmy Choo Sloane pair

    is most certainly striking upon first

    looking at them, and youd definitely

    give them a second glance. A British

    brand famous for luxurious accesso-

    ries, you know a pair of Jimmy Choos

    will never let you down when it comes

    to the highest of style. Although an

    eccentric pair, the dressed-up slipper

    is the way to go for formal occasions,

    where elegance is brought to life with

    quirky embroidery on a simplistic

    suede base. Although the colours may

    be standout, theyll only compliment

    a unique suit styling, yet this may be

    the only pattern you want to try. An

    opulent floral design in the richest of

    colours, this precise pattern can only

    mean one thing; that youre leading the

    way in the fashion stakes. The shape

    of the shoe is a classic slipper style, a

    rounded feel that exudes comfort and

    ease of wear.

    So; whatever the style youre going

    for, be it a night out on the town or

    something a little more formal, there

    are plenty of quirky options out on

    the market for you to choose from.

    Your shoes can be an elegant finish

    or an extravagant embellishment

    that captures the essence of any

    outfit or occasion. These pairs are

    all completely different in terms of

    character; where some may add hints

    of quirkiness, others are statements

    in their mix of features. And it may

    seem that they may be one-off outfit

    enhancers, but worked properly into

    your wardrobe, any of these shoes can

    be a modern investment in classic style

    and unique taste.

    OCTOBER 2012|39

    Jimmy Choo - Deep Purple Sloane

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    What does mens fashion Week have in store for us next

    Winter? british heritage is coming our Way and by jove Were


    by Katie smith

    42 |OCTOBER 2012

  • T he end of the world is near but lets be optimistic and believe we will make it into 2013 and reveal another year of fashion firsts for men. 2012 introduced us all to the debut of mens fashion week in London. Being such an exciting success,

    what does this mean for the year of 2013 and what does it

    have in store for us?

    Long gone have the days in which you have to battle your way

    through the throngs of women stood around rail after rail

    of womens clothing, to finally reach your destination of the

    menswear stashed in the back corner under the dimmed lights.

    Mens clothing has been a taboo within the fashion industry

    for years but 2012 has bought it into the lime light and men

    can finally celebrate their love of fashion without being labeled

    with the well-known stereotype.

    June this year saw the first fashion week completely devoted

    to men after a long awaited decision by the British Fashion

    Council. Prestigious designers such as Paul Smith and Chris-

    topher Kane displaying their masculine feathers as well as the

    shiny and new designers such as Shaun Samson exploding

    onto the scene with such varicosity that not even James Bond

    could handle.

    The idea that men only get excited over double Fs (food and

    football) is a notion that has been demolished due to the new

    percentage of men spending more of their hard earned cash

    on luxury fashion items in comparison to women. According

    to American Express, men are spending 24% more on luxury

    transactions in comparison to women but on a less regular


    Saving the pennies to splurge on Burberry Trench Coats and

    Saville Row suits is the way of the man during 2012. High

    street is still not a big deal for the gentlemen of todays society,

    maybe its due to the likes of Tony Stark in Iron Man and Rio

    Ferdinand in their sharp suits with their designer sunglasses

    that are making you admire their dress sense and men of today

    OCTOBER 2012|43


  • Awant to emulate wealth and power with the day

    dream of one day becoming the millionaire with

    the 3 Lamborghinis and Megan Fox on your arm.

    The year of 2012 has been the main stage for the

    uprising of masculinity within the fashion industry.

    This is a big turn within the fashion diary. The

    year of 2013 will see mens fashion week truly

    being introduced and transformed throughout the

    fashion capitals of the world. Taking and interpret-

    ing the inspiration received from the women, men

    will become the talking point of every year. The

    models will become hot topic; their eclectic styles

    will transform the

    everyday mans view

    on clothing. This is

    the beginning of the

    introduction to the

    most stylish men in

    the world, so take

    a step back Tinie

    Tempah, because

    the ordinary man is

    breaking through to

    introduce the reality of what mens fashion week

    can offer.

    So, what is there to expect from the Autumn/

    Winter collection 2013?

    The combination of slick Britannia and British

    Heritage will be arriving on our runways. The

    patriotism within our country from 2012 is being

    transferred across to our 2013 style pallet. The look

    will be incorpo-

    rating the Scottish

    Highlands with

    the London club

    scene. Masculine

    wools, twill

    jackets and duffle

    coats will all be

    part of every

    mans essentials

    next year. The

    expected colours of the British runway will include

    beiges and browns to be in sync with the colours

    of the British countryside.

    The styles of next years collection is bring the mas-

    culinity back into fashion. You will be transferred

    back into the era of sex, drugs and rock n roll. Its

    time to welcome back the sixties with open arms

    with checked trousers, three button vests in tweed

    and zipped lumber jackets in colourful leathers.

    Look no further than the great Ralph Lauren to

    help support you through this back to the future

    scenario. Why not have a look at the Polo Ralph

    Lauren tweed vest for 345 to help you kick start

    into those swinging sixties.

    The year of 2013 will see mens fashion week truly being introduced and transformed

    throughout the fashion capitals of the world.

    W44 |OCTOBER 2012

  • AThe gentlemanly look has stuck with us as always

    with the hunting jackets, corduroy trousers and

    trench coats, giving any man a right of passage

    through the styling stakes. There is no other

    designer to look at for trench coats other than

    Burberry. This spectacular British designer has been

    making Trench coats since 1895 and you wont find

    a better quality. The perfect trench for 2013 would

    be the Burberry London cotton twill for 995. The

    deep berry colour will have you looking smart and

    sophisticated for the whole of the winter season.

    We may not live in Antarctica, but the British

    weather does not hold back when it comes to the

    cold. The fabrics

    involved are too

    include dense wool

    fabrics, lama types

    and moleskin. These

    fabrics will keep

    you snug and warm

    as well as looking

    sophisticated and

    cool, youll feel like the King of Scotland in these

    fabrics. Why not invest in the Paul Smith Jeans

    knitted wool jumper for 175. The textures of the

    wool and the mixtures of blue and the white will

    have you pushing that cold back in the opposite


    Coloured denim is making a splash next Autumn, so as well

    as the understated tones of the British A/W colour pallet,

    why not take a risk a buy yourself a pair of red skinny jeans

    and have the people of Britain turning their heads for all the

    right reasons. Ted Baker has

    taken the coloured denim in

    exactly the right direction.

    The Seano slim fit coloured

    denim in green will help to

    compliment you in a smart

    white shirt and the Burberry

    trench coat.

    The colours of the British

    winters are always dull and unexciting, this A/W collections

    will see designers warm up the cities outfits with browns, reds

    and sherrys. If you feel like being a bit more adventurous in

    the colours you wear next winter then why not add hints of

    heather and sky blue to your outfit.

    For once British Autumn/ Winter fashion is being steered

    in the direction of colour. We are styling through our British

    heritage with our heads held high and feeling more patriotic

    than ever. So, as long as we make it through the end of the

    world. Lets raise our glasses and give a hurrah to mens British

    Fashion and the exciting future it has ahead.WThis A/W collections will see designers warm up the cities outfits with browns, reds and


    OCTOBER 2012|45


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    46 |OCTOBER 2012