Embed Size (px)
Citation preview
Tuesday 9th December
• Today we will look at what happened in Manchester after the peak of the textile industry and what the industry looks like today
The 20th Century
• Britain’s cotton industry reached its peak in 1912 when eight billion yards of cloth were being produced.
• But the outbreak of the First World War in 1914 was a disaster for the industry in Manchester and the surrounding towns.
• Demand for British cottons slumped and mill owners put their workers on short time (working fewer hours than normal and so getting less pay) or shut down their mills.
The 20th Century
• During the first two years after the First World War, there was another big boom (very good sales) but it didn’t last long!!
• In the Spring of 1920 British exports (everything made in Britain including cotton) were £479 million more than 1919 and 20% on the increase was bacause of cotton.
• But by the end of 1920 the market had collapsed and lots of mill workers were left without jobs.
The 20th Century• Why did this happen?
• All over the world (including China, Japan, Brazil, India – and Italy) protected domestic industries had been set up – making sure that their own mills would have work. They supplied their own markets in their own countries – and exported to other countries too
• Britain faced competition from Japan and India throughout the East and competition from Italy in middle Europe and the Middle East!
• India and Japan made cheaper cotton goods that people could afford rather than the higher quality, more expensive, British goods.
The 20th Century• In the USA the cotton industry grew in the 1920s
and exported to Latin America – but the USA used child labour in the fields and mills!
The 20th Century• Between the world wars, some 345,000
people left cotton manufacturing in Britain and 800 mills closed.
• In 1952, Quarry Bank Mill ceased production and its machines were sent to factories in India.
• But the cotton industry saw another boom later in the 1950s and workers from the Indian sub-continent began arriving to find work in the region’s mills.
The 20th Century• But the boom didn’t last long and by 1958, the
country that had given birth to the textile industry had become mainly an importer of cotton cloth.
• By the 1980s, the cotton industry had almost vanished in and around Manchester, leaving empty mills and silent chimneys.
• The Italian textiles and clothing industry grew in real terms through the 1990’s whereas the British industry declined by 40%
The 20th Century
• This is Burnley not Manchester – but the picture is the same …
New industries come to Manchester in the 20th century
• In the early 20th century other industries started to develop in Manchester –things that had nothing to do with cotton or textiles.
• New industries included flour milling, biscuits production (like our famous McVitie’s who moved to Manchester in 1917) and breakfast cereals (Kellogg’smoved to Manchester in the 1920s)
The first Industrial Estate - 1894• Kellogg’s was based at
Europe’s first Industrial estate built at Trafford Park on the outskirts of the city, rather than in the middle of the city
• Another company built this here in the 1913 to produce sheets of asbestos cement for roofs and industrial and farming buildings (this was a very dangerous substance)
• Ford built its Model T cars there too – this photo was taken in 1914.
New industries in Manchester• In the second half of the century
manufacturing industry declined and was, to a certain extent, replaced by ‘service’ industries such as education and finance.
• But Manchester carried on being at the forefront of new technologies – just as it was in the 19th century.
• Many of the new technologies had nothing to do with textiles!
• As with the industrial Revolution many of these technologies will change the world eg…
Manchester and New technologies -Computers
• The Manchester computers were developed between 1947 and 1977 at the University of Manchester. The computers included the world’s first stored program computer, the world's first commercially available general-purpose computer – and in 1962 the world’s fastest computer. You might have seen this one at MOSI
Manchester and New Technologies -Graphene
• In 2010 Andre Geim and Konstantin Novoselov, physicists at the University of Manchester won the Nobel Prize in Physics for their work on Graphene.
• Graphene is very, very thin. It consists of a sheet of single atoms arranged in a honeycomb structure. It’s also strong, flexible and can conduct electricity
• This "wonder material" graphene could be used to make bulletproof armour
Textiles in Manchester today
• There is still a textile industry in Manchester today.
• There are a few companies that have been in Manchester for a long time and which still produce cotton fabric eg Lees Newsome Limited
• It was established in 1875 and now has 24 people working for them. The company manufactures a wide range of textiles and textile-based products. Most of what they produce is cotton based, but they also make knitted fabrics and microfibres
Lees Newsome
Textiles in Manchester today
• Many textiles producers in Manchester now are specialists
• AMR Textiles Ltd are specialists in the production things like wadding for oven gloves and ironing board covers as well as high specification fabrics used in the aerospace, automotive (car), furniture, bedding and construction industries.
Textiles in Manchester today
• Much of the textile industry in Manchester nowadays is based on new ‘performance textiles’ or ‘technical textiles’
• The University of Manchester researches new textiles and new ways of using them.
• The Faraday Technitexpartnership is based in Manchester and works with the university’s school of Materials to develop new textiles
• It has become more of a science, involving chemistry to make new smart fibres.
Textiles in Manchester today
A Rowe Ltd was founded in 1937 but has survived so long by moving into technical fabrics. They make:
• flame retardant barrier fabrics for protective wear
• anti-bacterial fabrics for healthcare
• various fabrics for military and police use
Textiles in Manchester today
Multiple Windings was set up in 1916 but is now Europe’s leading producer of Glass Fibre Yarn for use in things like electrical equipment, medical casts and sports equipment.
Textiles in Manchester today
• Recent developments include medical textiles.
• Products range from babies’ nappies through to extremely specialised textile products for use in things like surgical sutures and, most recently, scaffolds for new tissue growth.
Textiles in Manchester today
• Other new textile developments include Microclimate clothing – the university of Manchester has been researching this area but the clothing isn’t produced in Manchester.
• In cold weather, our arms and legs can be up to 45° colder than the rest of our body without causing any discomfort. And if your head is uncovered, a warm coat won’t be able to keep you comfortable because you lose more heat through your unprotected head than your entire body can produce.
Textiles in Manchester today
• Microclimate clothing is designed to keep each part of the body at the best temperature whether doing a sport or being in extreme weather
Textiles in Manchester today• The car industry is
one of the largest markets for technical textiles - heat and sound insulation, safety belts and airbags, car seats and carpets, parcel shelf and boot liners are all regarded as technical textiles…
Money invested…
• Last year £81million was given by the government to boost Greater Manchester's textile trade to encourage companies to use textiles made in the Manchester area rather than importing from India
• The wider area of Bolton, Manchester, Oldham, Rochdale and Tameside and central and east Lancashire are still key locations for the textile industry.
Private White VC
• The factory has been in operation for over 100 years and continues to produce clothes using local British fabrics, where possible.
• Every stage of the production process is done by hand.
• Original machinery and tools are used at the factory, with equipment such as the Manchester-made T.Walker & Co. cutting machine, dating back to the 1950s, still being used in the manufacturing process
• Some smaller factories are starting up again - James Eden is a new-style textiles owner - he has a Cambridge degree and has worked in finance in London. He bought the Manchester factory once owned by his family and now produces coats for many of the big brands –including Marks and Spencer - but he has also launched his own menswear label, ‘Private White VC’.
• Many companies are producing technical yarns, eg J H Ashworth & Son Ltd who have been in Manchester for 75 years – they process Nylon, Polyester, Viscose and other technical yarns to the UK, Europe, and worldwide. They can be used in hospitals, cars, sports clothes
• Other companies in Manchester produce products related to the textile industry – latex to back textiles, adhesives and coatings; some make vinyl and plastic fabrics
• Stormproofings Ltd Supplies technical coated and laminated fabrics for garments, parachutes and hot air balloons, fire blankets, roller blinds, industrial, medical, military, marine etc. The coated and laminated finishes they use include:
• gas holding, • fire resistant, • waterproof, • anti-microbial, anti-fungal,• UV resist, • anti-static, • high tear strength.
Related industries
• Some companies been set up to ‘service’ the new textile industries such as laboratories to test the technical textiles to make sure they work well
Still an important industry!
• Within Greater Manchester the textiles sector contributes just over £400m to the economy
• There are 16,000 textile workers but 6,000 who are self employed. Some are working as fashion designers, textile designers, weavers, textile printers
Future textiles developments
• Companies are already researching ‘wearable electronics’
• most products on the market at the moment are fairly simple – putting electrical wiring into clothes
• Now they are trying to develop ‘interactive’ textiles with sensors and mini computers built into the structure of the fibres and fabrics themselves
• Most research is being done in the USA but The University of Manchester has also been working with other partners (universities, electrical companies and designers) to help develop these products.
Uses for Electronic textiles
• Health - monitoring the ‘vital signs’ of the wearer such as heart rate, respiration rate, temperature, activity, and posture.
• Sports - training data
Uses for Electronic textiles• Hazardous materials -
monitoring personnel handling dangerous chemicals
• Transport - Monitoring pilot or truck driver tiredness/fatigue
• Army - Tracking the position and status of soldiers in action; replacing heavy batteries with electrically conducting yarn
E-textiles
• Health and safety is one of the main areas E-textiles is beginning to improve
Don’t Break My Heart is a wearable, colour-coded distance warning system for cyclists to wear on their back so drivers don’t get too close to the bicycle…
The Vanilla Series is a line of jackets connecting directly to an iPhone
• http://vimeo.com/11584598
Cotton industry today
• There is still a huge cotton industry in the world – think about all the clothes you are wearing that are made from cotton – jeans, t-shirts, underwear!
Cotton industry today
• 90 different countries grow cotton and 120 million people around the world are employed in the cotton industry.
• Very little is made in Britain today
Who grows cotton today?
• The main countries that grow cotton are China, USA, India, Pakistan, Uzbekistan, Brazil, Australia and Turkey
Modern production• This video looks at how one of the most popular
cotton garments are made – starting in the field!
Child labour in the 21st century
• Cotton is still picked by hand in some parts of the world – and often by children
• Child labour has been reported in all the major cotton growing countries - China, India, Pakistan, Brazil, Uzbekistan and Turkey
Child labour in the 21st century
• Cotton is still picked by hand in some parts of the world – and often by children
• One country that still forces some children to work is Uzbekistan
Child labour in the 21st century• Uzbekistan is the fifth largest cotton producer in
the world. This year they picked 3.3 tons of cotton, mainly for export to other countries.
• Until a couple of years ago Uzbekistan schools were closed during the cotton harvest, so that children could work. In some parts of the country children are still forced to work.
• Adults are also forced to work picking cotton too -to pick enough cotton to meet the government’s targets. 4 million adults including teachers, businessmen and students have been forced into working on cotton harvest
Child labour in the 21st century
Child labour in the 21st century• In India children
should not work until they are 16
BUT
• 400,000 children under the age of 18 work on cotton farms
• Half of them are younger than 14
• Many are under the age of 10
• Many do not go to school.
Child labour in the 21st century
• In India children also work in the mills – although since 2005 the number has gone down.
• Sonal is 16 years old. She lives with her parents and four brothers and sisters in a house with two rooms in a small village in rural Gujarat.
• Last year she lost her hand in a machinery accident at the mill she worked in.
Child labour in the 21st century
• By law, masks and safety equipment should be provided to all workers but, in the cotton ginning factories, the children are exposed to dust which can cause lung disease from a young age
• There have been cases of them falling asleep through exhaustion and suffocating in the piles of raw cotton.
• In the fields, the children have long hours of stooping and repetitive movement, often in extreme temperatures.
• Youngsters are also exposed to skin irritants contained in the crops. Research now shows that a child’s development can be affected from exposure to pesticides, which can damage the nervous system
Child labour in the 21st century
A world of opposites• So the textiles industry
is now a world of advanced science and research producing new performance textiles, smart textiles and e textiles
• But around the world there are still children being forced to work in cotton fields and factories helping to produce some of the clothes we wear.
Over to you!• Imagine you have to design a new textiles
museum for your home town
• What information would you need to include?
• What exhibits would you display? (Machinery, textiles, furniture? )
• Would you have people showing visitors how things worked?
• What interactive displays would you plan?
• How would you compare the history of your industry to other countries?
