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EXPERTS 26 .06 . 2016 / 23

Home help

QTwo yearsago, Ibought arefurbished

Victorian terracedhome that had beenconverted from two flatsback to a house. We werethe first people to occupy theproperty and the work had beencompleted about six monthsbefore the purchase.

We asked our conveyancing lawyerif we should have a clause protectingus against “snagging” problems.(In our experience, a retention of10% is normal after a large buildingproject.) He said no, because it wasa refurbishment, not a rebuild.

We have suffered from eight seriousfaults, two of which the vendors,who are developers, have agreed toput right. We’ve also had 10 minorproblems: appliances, plumbing,electrical and joinery fixtures thatare inaccessible, incomplete orfaulty. We believe these were causedlargely by poor project management.Even the building-control officermissed a cloakroom extractor thathad no ducting.

Could we have taken out protectionthat required the vendors to correctthese faults? Until a property isoccupied, many problems do notarise, so they are not covered by aproperty survey, and warrantiesmay have expired by the time youmove in. In the event, we have hadto rely on the vendor’s reputationand goodwill to trace tradesmen,organise a central-heating redesignand replace leaking french doors,but they were not legally obliged tohelp. Everything else we haverepaired at our own expense.

ER, London

AFirst ofall, withregards

to the contractor’swarranties, it may

be beyond the scopeof a conveyancer to check

them and arrange for them to betransferred to a buyer.

Second, with such buildingconversions, even when the requiredstatutory consents are obtained, itis advisable to instruct a surveyorto inspect the property. They canreview the refurbishment and compilea snagging list that details anyfurther works required.

If the refurbishment wassubstantial, then it is almostinevitable that snagging issueswill arise after completion. Ideally,these should be identified prior toan exchange of contracts; thenprovisions can be agreed obligingthe vendor to deal with requiredremedial works, preferably to thebuyer’s satisfaction.

In the absence of any specificsnagging contractual obligations onthe seller, they may argue “buyerbeware” if they are asked to fix aproblem, and refuse to acceptresponsibility. This highlights theimportance of instructing a surveyorto identify any issues prior toexchange of contracts.

You mention that the vendors haveassisted with some of the problems,which is encouraging. As for theunresolved issues, you shouldconsult a solicitor, who can take fulldetails from you, inspect the relevantpaperwork and explain any otheroptions that are available.

Donall Murphy is a partnerat Russell-Cooke Solicitors;

russell-cooke.co.uk

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TOP T I PS

QA few months ago I bought an oakflatpack wardrobe. I have recentlynoticed small holes and little pilesof fine dust at its base. Is this

caused by woodworm?TL, Colchester

AThe small holes and fine dust suggestthat the powderpost beetle (Lyctinae orBostrichidae) is causing the problem.

These pests originate in sawmills, wherethey infest the sapwood (young wood) ofwide-pored hardwood before it is convertedinto furniture, plywood, flooring orconstruction timbers. The powderpostbeetle larvae feed on the sapwood, creatingsmall holes and a talc-like dust. (Traditionalwoodworm infest timber after it has beenin a property for several years, and producea grittier dust.)

Powderpost beetles found their way toour shores after the First and Second WorldWars, when North American hardwoodssuch as oak were imported after beingstored for years awaiting shipment.Improved storage and hygiene standardshave reduced the risk, but thegrowing popularity of importedhardwood flooring andflatpack furniture, as well asply, green oak and willow

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If you have a household problem, whether it’s snagging issues in yournew home or a dingy urban garden, our experts are here to offer advice

wickerwork, has led to a noticeable increaseof beetle numbers in Britain.

Most homes are constructed withsoftwoods, so powderpost beetles areunlikely to cause serious structural damageto your home. They also require very specificenvironmental conditions, so are unlikelyto spread throughout the house. Typically,they do damage to one item and die oncethe sapwood has been consumed.

Primarily, powderpost beetles need tobe treated at the sawmill or timber yard.Treatment in homes is difficult because ofthe nature of the infestation and the shortlife cycle. The removal of the sapwood, aprocess known as “defrassing”, is oftenthe only quick fix for construction timbers.Where finished products are concerned, itis often easier to negotiate with the supplierto replace the item. Failing that, fumigationis the best alternative. A gas containingsulfuryl fluoride is used effectively toeliminate all life stages of wood-boringinsect infestations.

Berwyn Evans is UK product manager atRentokil Property Care; rentokil.co.uk

QAn acquaintance recently told methat he used his electric immersionheater to provide hot water in thesummer, instead of his gas boiler.

He claimed that this was more economical.Is he right?

Colin Sim, Vale of Glamorgan

AThe amount of energy it takes to heata given volume of water by a giventemperature is the same, whether

you use gas or electricity. The unit priceof gas, however, is about a quarter that ofthe unit price of electricity, so it is cheaperto heat your water with gas than electricity.

There are inherent inefficiencies whenheating your water with gas: for example,the hot water needs to be pumped throughcold pipes to the hot water cylinder.Nonetheless, it is widely agreed that gasheats water at about a 90% efficiency rate,so there is no chance that electricity ischeaper. We have an online guide on howto save money with heating and the bestheating controls.

Which? Energy Team; which.co.uk

QI live in a terraced house in eastLondon with a tiny walled garden —about 15 ft square. It faces north,is shaded by tower blocks, is

damp and cool, and only gets a bit ofsunlight. I would like to create a lush andcolourful garden with dense foliage.What should I plant?

LP, Bow, London

ADespite all of your garden challenges,there is one advantage to the shadecast by surrounding buildings:

shelter. Small, enclosed spaces like yoursmight not have much direct sunlight, butthe lack of leaf-ripping winds meanslush and tender plants will thrive. Perhapsthe most interesting for you would beJapanese banana (Musa basjoo), a plantthat will grow to 10ft tall, forming anumbrella of pea-green leaves. At groundlevel, ‘Garden Angel Plum’ begoniasmake a lush carpet of foliage, as willbulletproof and slug-resistant bergenias(elephant’s ears).

For flowers, Phlomis russeliana isfabulous, even in dry shade, bearing yellowpompom blooms that fade in autumn intoattractive russet-brown towers, which willhold right through winter. As for evergreens,box balls combined with the bronze-leavedAnemanthele lessoniana (pheasant’s tailgrass) add architecture and colour, aswould the bright, strap-like leaves ofPhormium tenax (New Zealand flax).

Toby Buckland is a garden writer andthe host of tobygardenfest.co.ukIllustration: Russel Herneman

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