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Traceability in the Leather Production Supply Chain
Nicole Lambert, Leather Production Committee Lead, Textile Exchange
Anne Gillespie, Director of Impact Acceleration, Textile Exchange
Tuesday, March 31st, 2020
Anti-Trust Statement
Textile Exchange convenes the textile community and
values diversity of views, expertise, opinions,
backgrounds, and experiences. It is expected that
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ideas, information, and resources of publicly available
information only and avoid discussions on price, strategic
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Chatham House Rule
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Chatham House Rule, participants are free to use the
information received, but neither the identity not the
affiliation of the speaker(s), nor that of any other
participant, may be revealed.”
1. Introduction to the Leather Impact Accelerator and traceability expectations (Nicole Lambert/
Textile Exchange)
2. General overview of traceability strategies, systems and tools - examples used in other
supply chains (Evonne Tan/ Textile Exchange)
3. How DNA tracers can be used in the leather production supply chain (Tony Benson/ ADNAS)
4. How laser marking can be used in the leather production supply chain (Cedric Vigier and
Thierry Poncet/CTC)
5. How laser marking is being implemented in the Pali Group Supply chain (Twan de Bie/ PALI
Group)
6. Moderated open discussion with webinar participants (Anne Gillespie/ Textile Exchange)
Agenda
Leather Impact AcceleratorIntroduction to
Nicole Lambert, Textile Exchange
Founded in 2002, Textile Exchange is a
global non-profit with more than 300
members that represent leading brands,
retailers and suppliers in the textile
industry. The organization works to create
leaders in the sustainable fiber and
materials sector by providing learning
opportunities, tools, insight, standards,
data, measurement and benchmarking—
and by building a community that can
collectively accomplish what no individual
or company can do alone.
About Textile Exchange
The primary goal of Leather Impact Accelerator is to accelerate
positive impacts in the leather industry through widescale
adoption of minimum level of best practices.
LIA outcomes
The Leather Impact Accelerator program will identify and give recognition to
existing industry standards and programs, determined through the
Deforestation/Conversion-Free (DCF) protocol, Animal Welfare benchmark and
Leather Production benchmarks.
The program will include the Impact Incentive trading scheme, traceability
guidelines, and a framework for making claims about Responsible Leather.
The Leather Impact Accelerator program will give brands a tool to communicate
their expectations and support best practices in their supply chains, and to
talk about their actions to their consumers and stakeholders.
There are 6 components to LIA:
Leather
Production
benchmarks
DCF protocol
Animal
Welfare
benchmark
Impact
Incentives
“Leather Impact Accelerator program”
Claims
framework
Traceability
guidelines
Birthing
farmsSlaughter Tanning Finishing Assembly Brand/retail
Backgrounder
farm
Direct
farmBeamhouse
Feedlot
Post-Tanning
Birthing
farmsSlaughter Tanning Finishing Assembly Brand/retail
Backgrounder
farm
Direct
farmBeamhouse
Feedlot
Post-Tanning
Animal
Welfare
benchmarkDCF protocol
Birthing
farmsSlaughter Tanning Finishing Assembly Brand/retail
Backgrounder
farm
Direct
farmBeamhouse
Feedlot
Post-Tanning
Leather Production
benchmarks
Birthing
farmsSlaughter Tanning Finishing Assembly Brand/retail
Backgrounder
farm
Direct
farmBeamhouse
Feedlot
Post-Tanning
Traceability guidelines
Traceability guidelines
Birthing
farmsSlaughter Tanning Finishing Assembly Brand/retail
Backgrounder
farm
Direct
farmBeamhouse
Feedlot
Post-Tanning
Impact Incentives
Birthing
farmsSlaughter Tanning Finishing Assembly Brand/retail
Backgrounder
farm
Direct
farmBeamhouse
Feedlot
Post-Tanning
Claims
framework
Birthing
farmsSlaughter Tanning Finishing Assembly Brand/retail
Backgrounder
farm
Direct
farmBeamhouse
Feedlot
Post-Tanning
Animal
Welfare
benchmarkDCF protocol
Leather Production
benchmark
Claims
frameworkTraceability guidelines
Traceability guidelines
Impact Incentives
Why traceability?
• Brands are facing pressure from investor groups and NGOs
• Brands are setting strong CSR targets that are linked to global goals and targets
• Traceability is seen as a tool in risk management
• Consumers are demanding more transparency
LIA supports the development of a more traceable value chain.
Traceability guidelines are being developed specifically for the farm level and the
leather production level.
Traceability expectations of LIA
Building traceability into the system at farm level
Increase supply of responsible, traceable cattle
Building traceability into the system through brands
LIA - Year 1LIA - Year 2LIA - Year 3LIA - Year 4LIA - Year 5
Building traceability into the system
LIA - Year 1LIA - Year 2LIA - Year 3LIA - Year 4
Increase supply of responsible, traceable cattle
Development of traceability technology and systems
LIA - Year 5
year
Amount of LIA Impact Incentives
purchased = 100% of leather use
2025
50% of leather sourced from fully
traceable LIA supply chains
Amount of LIA Impact Incentives
purchased = 50% of leather use
100% of leather sourced from
fully traceable LIA supply chains
Brands will have a path towards full traceability
The ability to verify the history, location, or application of an item by
means of documented recorded identification.
Traceability
The ability to verify the history, location, or application of an item by
means of documented recorded identification.
Traceability
‘The custodial sequence that occurs as ownership or control of the material supply
is transferred from one custodian to another in the supply chain’.
Chain of Custody
≠
Source: ISEAL “Chain of custody models and definitions”
Types of Tracers
In Product
The identifier is
embedded into the
product at its place of
origin, and the unification
with the product can
typically only be dissolved
by physically destroying
the product.
E.g. DNA, dyes, particle
markers.
On Product
The identifier is supplied
‘onto the product’ at its
place of origin, and going
forward forms a unit with
the product. It can
however be removed
through physical force or
chemical process.
E.g. RFID, barcodes,
NFC
Off Product
The identifier is supplied
on a medium that is
provided alongside the
product at its place of
origin, and accompanies
it going forward.
E.g. Certificates, digital
trace
In Product
Tracer type Examples Brands
Fluorescent IntegriTex, In-Code, Stardust, FiberTrace
DNA molecule Haelixa, AppliedDNA, Identigen
Isotopes Oritain
Microbiome CoreBiome, Phylagen
Ink Stardust, DigiMarc
On Product
Tracer type Examples Brands
NFC SMART Textiles, In-Code,
RFID Arfidex, UBSolutions,
Barcodes GS1
Off Product – Digital Solutions
Tracer type Examples Brands
Distributed
(Blockchain)
Bext360, TrusTrace, InfiniChain, Astratum, MonoChain,
Lukso Blockchain, Consensys, Convergence,
Provenance, Textile Genesis,
Centralized SupplyShift, ChainPoint, SourceTrace,
Visualization SourceMap, Open Apparel Registry
Off Product – Chain of Custody
Identify Preservation
Segregation
Mass Balance
X%
Y%
X% + Y%
Credit Trading
Off Product – Chain of Custody
Identify Preservation Fairtrade FloCert (Centralized)
Segregation Textile Exchange trackit (Centralized)
Mass Balance BCI BCI (Centralized)
Credit Trading RSPO RSPO (Centralized)
Examples Tracer Type
TextileExchange.org
© Copyright Notice
This presentation is protected by U.S. and International copyright laws.
Textile Exchange welcomes you to use slides from this collection for your presentations on the condition that:
• The slides are not altered from the way it is presented in its original format, this includes changing colors and style.
• The Textile Exchange logo should not be removed.
• Adding logos and/or content is not permitted without written permission from Textile Exchange.• Any presentation using this content or any form of this content should acknowledge Textile Exchange as the author.
Thank you
31st March 2020
Providing CertainT® in the Leather Supply Chain Using DNA Technology
Tony Benson, Managing
Director, EMEA
© Copyright. 2020. All Rights Reserved. Applied DNA Sciences, Inc.
• NASDAQ-listed as APDN
• Corporate HQ in Stony Brook, NY; LineaRx subsidiary
• 50+ staff in US, UK, India; Distributors in US, EMEA,– Central Testing Laboratory in Ahmedabad, India
• Over 80 Worldwide issued patents and over 50 pending patent applications
• Regulatory and Accreditations– ISO 9001:2008 Certified/Registered (ANAB) – quality management– ISO/IEC 17025:2005 Accredited (A2LA) – testing and calibration– Following 2011 FDA Guidance on Physical Chemical Identifier (PCID)– Drug Master File submitted to FDA; cGMP work environment
• World’s largest PCR-based mass producer of DNA
Applied DNA Sciences
3© Copyright. 2020. All Rights Reserved. Applied DNA Sciences, Inc.
Proven Technology – Use Case Examples
Dept of Defense Textiles Leather Fertilizer Cash-in-Transit
Pharmaceuticals Cannabis Automotive Recycled Plastics
138 criminals convicted; 670 sentence years to date
Feathers / Down
© Copyright. 2020. All Rights Reserved. Applied DNA Sciences, Inc.
The Essence of CertainT®
© Copyright. 2020. All Rights Reserved. Applied DNA Sciences, Inc.
CertainT® for Leather – How Does it Work?
1. Unique DNA tag(s) designed and allocated to tannery / brands
2. Tag added at final rinse of wet white/blue
3. Another tag added during finish – e.g. PU finish
4. Shoe manufactured using the tagged leather
5. Shoe can be tested at any point in the supply chain using portable test equipment or Applied DNA labs
6. Data from portable / lab tests is uploaded to provide data for tracking
7. Clients can be provided information via QR codes building Trust in the product
© Copyright. 2020. All Rights Reserved. Applied DNA Sciences, Inc.
Tag at the TannerySigNature® T molecular tags are applied to wet blue or wet white leather after tanning
Tanneries may opt to use a single molecular tag to identify all hides that were processed at a particular facility
T A G
© Copyright. 2020. All Rights Reserved. Applied DNA Sciences, Inc.
Test at the TanneryA QC inspection using SigNify® equipment can be performed on the tagged hides prior to storage, ensuring authenticity and establishing point of origin
T E S T
© Copyright. 2020. All Rights Reserved. Applied DNA Sciences, Inc.
Test at Split TraderTagged hides can be authenticated upon receipt by split traders in order to verify the tannery of origin
After successful authentication, the hides are sent to the finishing tannery for further processing
Not sure that this image is relevant? Hides would be traded as wet white / wet blue or could use something generic for “trading” or verification / traceability?
T E S T
© Copyright. 2020. All Rights Reserved. Applied DNA Sciences, Inc.
Test at Finishing TanneryTagged hides can be authenticated upon receipt by the finishing tannery, ensuring proof of origin and retaining upstream accreditations
After successful authentication, leather may be re-tanned and finished
T E S T
© Copyright. 2020. All Rights Reserved. Applied DNA Sciences, Inc.
Tag Finished LeatherAfter re-tanning at the finishing tannery, a new SigNature® T molecular tag may be applied to wet crust or finished leather coatings. This new tag can be used to identify the finishing tannery or brand.
T A G
© Copyright. 2020. All Rights Reserved. Applied DNA Sciences, Inc.
Testing by BrandsBrands can perform on-site testing of tagged finished leather using SigNify® portable DNA authentication equipment to separate genuine items from fakes and provide enhanced traceability.
T E S T
© Copyright. 2020. All Rights Reserved. Applied DNA Sciences, Inc.
Track key points in the Supply Chain
All data captured during the tests taken along the supply chain are uploaded to the CertainT® portal, allowing for traceability from source all the way to finished products
T R A C K
© Copyright. 2020. All Rights Reserved. Applied DNA Sciences, Inc.
Application-specific In-Field or In Lab Browser-based desktop or mobile
T A G T E S T T R A C K
4
How it’s Tracked
© Copyright. 2020. All Rights Reserved. Applied DNA Sciences, Inc.
Are we already DNA tagging leather?
✓ YES
✓ Currently DNA Tagging leather in commercial pilots in one of the Worlds largest tanneries in ASIA for several top brands
✓ If you want to be included in future commercial pilots we can easily arrange it
© Copyright. 2020. All Rights Reserved. Applied DNA Sciences, Inc.
Contact Us:Applied DNA Sciences50 Health Sciences Drive, Stony Brook, NY 11790 USAMain Tel: (631) 240 8800 | Fax: (631) 240 8900
www. adnas.com
Tony Benson, Managing Director, [email protected]+44 7552 429341
© Copyright. 2020. All Rights Reserved. Applied DNA Sciences, Inc.
CTC GLOBAL LEATHER TRACEABILITY, FROM FIELD TO FINISH LEATHER
Thierry PONCET – [email protected]
Cédric VIGIER – [email protected]
4, rue Hermann FRENKEL
69367 LYON cedex 07
FRANCE
MA
KE IT E
ASY
WIT
H C
TC
A UNIQUE INNOVATION HUB DEDICATED TO THE LEATHER,
LEATHER GOODS, FOOTWEAR, APPAREL & TEXTILE INDUSTRIES
Research & Development
Training
Consultancy
Audits
Chemical and physical testing laboratory
PURPOSE OF TRACEABILITY FOR LEATHER
Secure the supply chain
- Deforestation / illegal logging …
- Animal welfare
- Working conditions
- Environmental protection
SUSTAINABILITY
PURPOSE OF TRACEABILITY FOR LEATHERQUALITY
- Map the origin of the defects
- Improvement of all upstream defects and upgrading of all hides and skins before tanning
- Process Control in the tannery
Upstream defects
- Defects due to living conditions including scars, disease, hide weaknesses, …
- Slaughter and flaying conditions (knife cuts)
- Preservation defects
- Defects due to the tanning process
Paper labelFlaying
Salting workshop Laser
marking of
each hide
Beamhouse
Tri Wet Blue
Leather
Automatic
reading
Slaughterhouse
Hide / skin
trader
Tannery
Manufacturer Control
Breeding
Automatic
reading
1: PAPER LABELING
2 : LASER MARKING SYSTEM OF CTC
Ajouter la vidéo
2: FROM PAPER LABEL TO « IN THE FLESH MARKING »
2 : MARKING EVOLUTION DURING THE TANNERY PROCESS
Salted hides and skins Unhaired Wet Blue Semi finished Leather Finished Leather
3 : AUTOMATIC INDUSTRIAL CODE READER DURING WETBLUE SORTING
3. AUTOMATIC CODE READER ON A LEATHER’S STACK On a stack of leather on a pallet : Acquisition module by a
matricial camera
More folders due to the stack
Several marks by image
Height of the stack is variable (no constant)
4: DATABASEFARMER SLAUGHTERHOUSE TANNER
Ear tag Paper label Laser marker Auto reader
Defects sorting
Database
Passport
Where
When
Who
Id skin
Where
When
Who
Id skin
Where
When
Who
Id skin
Where
When
Who
Id skin
Meal data
Defects
List
MANUFACTURER HIDE / SKIN TRADER
Ear tag Paper label Laser marking
system
Automatic reader
Animal husbandry Depends on the
country
Slaughterhouses A lot 5 0
Hide and skin traders A lot 1 0
Tanners 0 3 4
Manufacturers 0 0 Close contacts
THANK YOU FOR YOUR ATTENTION
www.ctcgroupe.com
Cédric VIGIER
Thierry PONCET
Leather Traceability, from field to finish Leather
Wat
Wie
Datum
Aan wie
Traceability
Twan de Bie, Vitelco leather
March 31st, 2020
Traceability Webinar
Introduction
Ing. T.L.A. de Bie MBA
Managing Director
+31 620 536 481
nl.linkedin.com/in/twandebie
TRACEABILITY
Mar
ch31
—Sl
ide
2
Member of
Founded 1959
From livestock trader to veal producer
Family business, 2nd generation
650 employees
€ 485 mio. turnover
2nd largest veal producer in Europe
TRACEABILITY
Mar
ch31
—Sl
ide
3
Veal production
• Fully integrated chain
• Slaughter 350.000 calves / year
• 7.000 calf skins / week
TRACEABILITY
Mar
ch31
—Sl
ide
4
Controlledintegrated chain
• Every at Vitelco slaughtered calf is controlled and certified by SKV
• Concepts with extra welfare conditions like ‘Beter Leven’, ‘Vitel Oké’, etc.
• Fully integrated chain at PALI Group
TRACEABILITY
www.skv.info
Mar
ch31
—Sl
ide
5
Traceability
2 reasons for full traceability of calf leather
1. Full transparency for our customer
Sustainability and durability
2. Feedback to our farms
Improve quality
TRACEABILITY
The NEED toknowwhereyourproduct camefromandwhereithas been
Mar
ch31
—Sl
ide
6
Traceability in leather
Goal:
Every individual skin (WB, WW, Crust or Finishedleather) is traceable back to the calf!
If you know the calf→ you know everything!
Electronically readable
Testing: laser technology
TRACEABILITY
Mar
ch31
—Sl
ide
7
Traceability in leather
System:
Laser marking
Applied after selection
Today -> RFID label
Later -> In line
Applied in fresh hide
Electronically readable
TRACEABILITY
Mar
ch31
—Sl
ide
8
Traceability in leather
TRACEABILITY
Mar
ch31
—Sl
ide
9
If you know the calf, you know everything
TRACEABILITY
Mar
ch31
—Sl
ide
10
TRACEABILITY
Mar
ch31
—Sl
ide
11
Planning
System ready within 2 months
Start marking hides
Supply traceable hides
Finetune technique
Implement reading
Supply laser traceability system
TRACEABILITY
Mar
ch31
—Sl
ide
12
Thank you
Ing. T.L.A. de Bie MBAManaging Director
[email protected]+31 620 536 481nl.linkedin.com/in/twandebie
Tel: +31 544 39 26 00
Fax: +31 544 39 26 26
Aaltenseweg 4
7131 ND Lichtenvoorde
Nederland
Moderated Open Discussion
• What are the minimum realistic traceability expectations that we should set for LIA? Is a
manual system acceptable? What would that look like?
• Should we ask for hide traceability or batch-level traceability?
• How long does it take to implement a traceability system?
• How likely is it that all stages of leather processing will agree to invest in traceability?
• Does the 5-year timeframe sound feasible?
• How do we communicate the expectations to the earlier stages, so that they can be ready
within the timeframe that applies to them?
• What do leather producers need from brands?
• How would leather producers like to be recognized for their efforts?
TextileExchange.org
© Copyright Notice
This presentation is protected by U.S. and International copyright laws. Selected iconography from thenounproject.com
Textile Exchange welcomes you to use slides from this collection for your presentations on the condition that:
• The slides are not altered from the way it is presented in its original format, this includes changing colors and style.
• The Textile Exchange logo should not beremoved.
• Adding logos and/or content is not permitted without written permission from Textile Exchange.• Any presentation using this content or any form of this content should acknowledge Textile Exchange as the author.
Thank you