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8/14/2019 Two African trips with notes and suggestions on big game preservation
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Two African trips, with notes and suggestions on big game preservation
in Africa; by Edward North Buxton ...
Buxton, Edward North, 1840-1924.
London, E. Stanford, 1902.
http://hdl.handle.net/2027/nyp.33433066593553
Public Domain in the United States,
Google-digitized
h t t p : / / w w w . h a t h i t r u s t . o r g / a c c e s s _ u s e # p d - u s - g o o g l e
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orthBuxton
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TR PS
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O N S O N
A T O N I N A R C A
T O N
R T S TA L S , ET C .
Map
S T AN O R D
R E , W . C .
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a
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this volumedealwiththe
aytripsin Africa,onein
r intheSoudan.I neach
a monthinagoodgame-district,
andtravellinggentlyfromcamp
ttle morethanatranscription
haveputintoapermanentform
o areinterestedinthesame
iththese I havecombinedreproduc-
tographswhichseemedbestto
sof suchj ourneysandthe
eandwild animalswhichI
ould bebetterdescribedasa
umeoftravels.
brie f journeys, underta en
enotitle tospea with
ectsaffectingthosegreatterri-
cla imspeggedout byB ritish
erandSirHarry J ohnstonhave
onsof theSoudanandEast
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N TR P S
emaintheclassicsof the
reannually supplementedbyBlue
cream ofofficialinformation,and
rybonesofstatistics.Tothese
utevensounprof itableapersonas
r mayhaveapurpose, andmy
uralistsandsportsmeninthese
secondingtheeffortsof those
e endeavouringtopreservethe
ythecreationof asoundpublic
gmyselfhuntedmanybeastsin
s,I haveusedmyopportunities
derwhich theyprosperorthe
mtohavedefiniteideason thesub-
sow sthatthequestionisurgent.
dedachapterdea lingw iththissub ect.
o f tenregrettedthatI had
ulcameraandthus secured
wonderfulherdswhichinhabit
s,opportunitiesforwhichmay
ecomesrarer andwilder.This
mytriptotheWhiteNilebyone
stcameras. I havedescribedthe
useby theamateur,especially
,hadnopreviouspracticewith it.
veherereproducedshowatleast
ainedbymorecompetenthands.
uponI donotdoubt,butI
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emptinafieldof investigation
estingresults.I canatany
t thisformofamusementis
demandsmorepatienceand
ertorments,morek nowledgeof
aword,bettersportmanshipthan
trigger andw henasuccessful
neditis ahigherachievement,
sport,thanatrophy,however
donotpretendtothe rdleofa
hopethatmypictureswill notbe
birdsandbeastshereportrayed
, sti l l l iv ingthe irl if e inthesame
esthisvolumeshowsthe
allthe GameReservesin
rritoriesandtheSoudan,and
ter.
enera lSirF rancisWingate ,
heSoudan,aswellasother
,fortheirassistancein defining
undariesofthedistrictsinto
divided.
Mr. S. H. W hitbread, andMr.
wedmetoreproducepicturesof
Dance, " A K hartoumNuggar,
Ec ar p me n t, s u b e c ts o f wh i ch m y
fect.
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ANTR PS
pshotsmustbeso described
eredtolerable,it isdueto
Mr.H .T.Malby,andtoMr.
producedthem.
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:n in).
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R C A 1
E45
A T O N . . 1 1 5
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1 I i . )i
i ,
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. F rontispiece
. Tofacepagei
.
ix
xi
1
7
9
. 1 1
15
17
. 1 9
. , 23
25
3
ngHippos. . 37
nt... 39
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TR PS
by
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.Tofacepagelib
, 117
119
, 121
moise lleC ranes. 123
... ,,125
, 127
. . . , , 131
. , , 133
, , 137
, 139
B ound.. . 141
, . 153
, , 171
5
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TR PS
R C A
oftravellersandsportsmen,
indnessofaprominentofficial
mettoconsidertheq uestionof the
ameofAfrica. Theq uestion
plehopedforsomeresults from
ferenceofthegreatPowershaving
assembledunderLordSalis-
feruponthemeasurestobeta en.
irst-namedgathering,I paida
hterin thesummerof1899
tedforafew w ee sinsome
andpaidspecial attentionto
hichhadbeenalreadyta en.
withouttheirvalue asbearing
eciallyasshowingtheextra-
hmayyet bepreserved,
adeandenforced thecondi-
elives andmultiplies the
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NT R P S
mespecieswithextinction,as
tingthem.Someofmyfriends
tmyownmodestbag,as ifit
seviews butitisscarcely
nooneproposesto interfere
ndeed,itistheconservative
yfoundmostanxioustopre-
sinwhichhe delights.
romC apeGuardafuiintheworst
onsoonwastheprice whichwe
elow-lyingAfricancoast,with
ofpalms,andhugebaobab-
ysteriousdelightswhichlay
ppositethewarehousesof
ashedPortuguesefortandits
withinthe land,being
ryformedby somesmall
mV ascodaGamadownwards
harbour,but itwasleftfor
daK ailwaytodiscoverthat
hannelwasthebetterroad-
rderandtheneware visible
erswhichmonthbymonth
newrailwayarej ostledby
oesandA rabdhow s.
ndia,forthetownis
bay.Therehasalwaysbeen
rnandwesterncoasts ofthe
shasrece ivedanimmensestimulus
ndaRailwayisbeingconstructed
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R C A 3
dbya numberoftradersoftheir
slongconnects thetown
ayterminus,whichwasthen
teside oftheisland,andfor
titis verypleasantlocomotion
trollybya coupleofnimble
na-shambas,thepalm-groves,
es,andthroughstretchesof
" bishop birds, l i e litt leballs
wweaver-birds,playandflutter
enests.
oforwardthatwewere ableto
ra inthesamenight, and, some
ossedthebridgetothe main-
wweweretraversingtheTaru,
ub,whichhashithertoproved
verycaravanboundup-country.
eofthorncarriesscarcely anyfoliage
mostbareoflife. " Africa
iderapartthantheoldhymn
,andthe firstpermanent
o,crossedat the115thmile.
esnowsof K iliman aro,is
omegoodengineeringreason
notbeenalreadyutilisedfor
wnto thecoast,andeven
tseemstome, nowthatthe
ntheNile valleyisrelieved
suppressed,thatwor softhis
ediatevaluethanthe advance
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NT R P S
peed.Althoughour train
dwasthusindependent,wepassed
want ofwater.Theydepended
omawater-holefourmilesoff.
enginesinformedmethathe
undthecoolies,who shouldhave
ridle .
tthe 100thmile,weleftthe
new directtrac hasbeencut
boutsixtymilesto Taveta,close
manterritoryandnearthelowest
aro . I tw asaroundthebaseof
atI proposedtowanderfortwo
van,whichhad beensent
,assembled.Theyconsistedof
ofStanley sfaithfulfollowers,
porters,shepherdedbyseven
ithold-fashionedrifles.The
mainlythe resultofinnumer-
adersalongthe coastandinto
eatmentandfatfeeding,com-
heyhavedevelopedamuscular
shesthemfromthetribesmenof
maybeidenticalin bloodand
ight-heartedrace,andsing
long withtheregulationload
r ownbelongings.Theyare
childishimpulsestowhich they
aimlessdesertion.Thistendency
stomofprepaymentofwages,
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R C A 6
,andwhatcana casual
esertingporterneverstealshis
thej ungleanddecamps.
aravans,asthemobilityor
ydependon thatloadas
medicinesorcartridges.H ence
all therollfromthe register
gvueurtocarry.Thebwana,or
hismen,and thismeasureis
ashis.Threehaddisappeared
omefurtherdepletionofnumbers.
ongiftofblan etsandwater-
nof " posho" thericerationto
twasapiteoussight towatch
ingupthegrainsof ricedropped
hefirstsignamongmany
starvationyear dueto long-
wed,accompaniedbymuch
htest andnowweencountered
rsassembledhadto be
dingin thesamedirection.A
adebysomebody.O urcarriers
tforthenumberofloadswhich
gear, tradegoods, " chopboxes, as
nsarecalled,andrice foramonth.
boutthecampseemedtoo
yload,and weweredrivento
hind,hopingtorecruitsturdier
sandsendthembac forthe
did,butthey werelongin
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R C A
dfor acoupleofhours,our
rgedalonganativetrac . I can
enceof theoldpathbythe
Africannature.I tinvolved
anydifficulties infact,thatday
rrythemalmostasfar asthey
vehimin considerationofthe
h heledus.This wasona
er itsbedw asdry , butourfo llowers
pingholesin thesandybottom.
eban s,andlianasfestooned
hof greenery.Towal along
chsometimeswasameretunnel
inemergedintobrilliantsunshine,
ctiontothemost attractiveside
terfliescoursedupanddown
erw asq uic lyatw or w ithher
dofa smallantelopeinterested
thehour beforesunset,I
alongabranchchanneland
nimal,and,byafortunateshot
asmalldui ero fadar bay
horns.Strangetosay,noneof
ntry , tow homI subse uently
ne,and asamatteroffact
eHarvey sdui erhadonly
Thisis perhapsowingtoits
ntoits intrinsicrarity,butit
y collection.
x tday smarchastypica lo fmany
ght,wetoo ourcoffeewhile
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NT R P S
etents. A tasigna ltheporters
onceallo tted, eachmank now shis
aheadoftheline.W efollowed
chwas occupiedbyshambas,
wingI ndiancornorbananas.
stvaluablefood-plantinEast
inavarietyofways au
ed, reducedtof lour, andba ed,
into caps,bas ets,oracradle
ingrisingground,wegot into
hatwecould onlypushour
ingastrideofthehind-wheel,
nddoubletocleartheover-
rtheirvile hoo swithsoft-
mtobe endowedwithamischievous
hadnextto betraversed.
ght, closedbehindeachpasser-
outingk eptusfromwandering.
a in, w ew eresoa edtothes in.
periencessomemoreshambas
heredandroastedsomeheadsof
reshment,forthe boycarrying
ared.Atlengthwere-entered
ydeterminednottobe diverted
tmorning,weenteredon
terlesstractwhich extendsfor
vemilesto Taveta.Thetrac
suitedto wheeling,sothat
adofthe safari,andwesoon
rgergame.H erdsofthe
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R C A
ofthemorebeautifulGrant s
ntedeightofpeople onwheels,
urfront,thrownout oftheir
tedspeed.Aherd ofimpala,
ayco lour, w entof fw ithhuge
rownheightor more,intotheair,
usproceeding.Giraffe,ostrich,
y usatvarioustimeseither
ewardj ourneyacrossthedesert.
tthisisahunter sparadise ,
anobstacle.Nodoubtthatis
stillabounds,as nohunter
bourhoodunlessprovidedfor
.W e.k eptfarahead,and
g-placeneararoc yhill,in the
asmallnaturalcatch-water
ip-bath,holdingafewgallons.
nw iththef ivedon eysw ho
uipment butthebul o f theporters
rivedthatnight,whichwas a
ngveryhard.Thetruants
g,but wereunfittostart
ghterandI weresoonagain
fari.Low ridgescovered
ithwidegrassy valleys,
low,thefavouritefeeding-
w ere j ustenteringonthe
neof thesehollow s, w henI saw
alapproachingtheroad
which wereherefairly
thoughtitw asadon eybelong-
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N TR P S
mwehadpassed.Thenext
toodrightacross theroad,thirty
ingoutoverthe veldt,andwholly
ch.I shoutedtomydaughter,
nt,and ofcoursebetweenme
pedof fandgazedw iththeaw e
nota littletrepidation.But
Hisma esty turnedhishead
ndsprangintothe bushes.
gotintothepapers,with
nstance,thatwefrightenedthe
bells.O nepoetburstinto
meandmybell withO rpheus
pletwassomethingli ethis
darehisdulcet strains,
oneremains.
gerousinthedaytime,unless
nsuchacase, asw esubse uently
o facehisenemy.Thereal
approachbynight.Thehistory
wo man-eatinglionsatTsavo,
construction- campasto
nceoftherailway,wasof
referredtoby LordSalisbury
mustconfesstosomefee ling
he spotwherethelionhad
atthe sideofthepath,and
eedforthenexthalf-mile.The
whomI hadsentforwardalong
ofsevenlions" F ourmanandw ife
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i 1 H - NB .
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R C A 11
stheyexpressedit. I neverfound
issort, andthetrac satleast
oushereabouts.
einsight ofK iliman aro,
s rarelyvisibleexceptat
n.Themoistureprecipitated,
canicsoil,ma eitsslopeshighly
zoneisone ofthemostpopulous
rennialstreams,fedbythe
O neofthem,thelittle river
forestofTaveta.Theblac
hbegantoshowinfront,and at
ingexpanseofLa eJ ipe , w hich
aptainTempleMaxted,the
seregions,metuson theverge
dustohishouseontheban s
dayswehadbeen practically
astarvationallowance,andthe
me.O ntheoppositesidea
edtheopenplainandthegreat
nt-collectorinan outlying
ariedandpeculiar.Apart
nistrationofhis district,
ofcommander-in-chiefand
hiscasethe armyislimited
nd- f i le butif thesew erenot
ewouldsoonbe trouble,as
ot.O urrelationswiththe
unswithinamileor two,are
nalexchangeofvisitsis fre uent.
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N TR P S
Germandoctork indlyundertoo a
Moschitoprescribefor amission-
methroughourterritory,and
administratorispostmaster-
cal instructorinagriculture of
w snothingtothenativepopulation.
usticeof thepeace, onSundays
stofthelittlemission church.
,andgeneralmedicalpractitioner
il lsuphissparemoments. I am
elast-namedfunctionisthemost
asantto seetheout-patients
erritoryrangedupevery
. Thoughheprobablystarted
thmedicalk nowledge,hispractice
charenotq uiteaccidental,
foundimpressionon" his
hanceforayoungempire-ma er
3or 4aw ee Thereare
a inta iningtheK ing sf lag, and,
syoungmeninEast Africahave
inregainingtheconfidenceof
enturiesoftreacherouswrongon
s.I tisonly fairtosaythat
heGermansmayhavebeenin
timeofourvisitgovernedunder
hesamehumaneconsiderations.
esttheW atavetaowetheir
mtheraidsofthe Masai.Those
ata combinedrushintheopen,
adofthe poisonedarrowand
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R C A
thelittleclearances,banana
sinthemidst ofthej ungle
eir ownersmeetastrangerwith
thesesunnyopenings,tall
igandothergianttrees support
ndfrom theirbranchesrope-
undredfeettoearthandstri e
saresilentanddevoidof life.
grovesofex uisiteR af iapalms,
etin length,whosescarlet
htheluminousgreenof the
f bright-colouredbirdsand
Deepdow ninblac shadethe
edhere andtherebybigstems
thrownacrossforthepurpose.
n-stationatTaveta,which
churches.This isnotan
natives,butratheraconces-
attend church,butwillnot
readily fa ll inw iththeprecept
nSunday infact, theyw ouldgladly
rdays inthewee .Thewhole
n , embraceC hrist ianityonthe
buttheirspiritualpastorsare
ertain paganpracticeswhich
havesucceededininculcating
ons,as,forinstance,thevalue
gation-canalfourmileslong,
ed,isa monumenttotheir
hehospitableResidencywe
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N TR P S
s anddepartednorthwards,for
emountain.W ewereguided
req uiteunburdenedwith
xceptwater-gourds.I twasa
d gracewithwhichtheseslim
nd.Theyneverspo e,and,when
uttheroute, po intedoutthedirection
etheslopesofthe mountain
pointafewmiles fromTaveta,
ustratedbyanancientcrater,
seatedla e, ca lledLa eC hala,
mference.Thesurfaceofthe
tbelowthe rim,whichisvery
e andbeingthusprotected
dsurfacemirrors thetrees
arginand thegreatex-volcano,of
twasatone timethevent.A
ros-pathroundtheupperedge
animalsvainlysoughta way
ters.
whichgotoformthe Lumi,
mbo,flowingnorth,descendthe
plain.H avingtheiroriginin
yareperennial hencetheir
edbybeltsof superbtreesand
.Thedeeperpoolsarecrowded
encampwaspitched,mydaughter
, andourmenpresently
roughertac le,roarsoflaughter
ycompetition.Thecatchwas
mewor ofgreentwigs.A
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N TR P S
sisadeepguttural cough,
he roarofanangryor
wardshadreasonto k now.
reme,I willendeavourto
alswhichweencountered,
posedthatallwouldbeseen
,eachspecieshas itsfavourite
otmuchtrespasseduponby
bareofgameofanyk ind, andit
willtraverse,aswedid,much
mp inagoodgame-country.
pletehiscollectionofspecimens
oftenfruitlesssearch.
wal .Asweproceedparallel
ureswilldepartwithheavy
they roosted,andacompany
grandfathers,willbe seenmov-
watering-place.Asounderof
theirsnoutsthattheyallow
dthenscuttlenoisily,withtails
pig, I thin , f romthewart-
sturbed,as mySomalis
vesbytouchingtheunclean
shootathyenas,twoor three
erallyroundthecamp at
llof meat.H ereissomething
bodymovingrapidlyaway,
urhundredyards.Ali calls
meansostrich. Thisisthecoc
matemayperhapsbemadeout
endance.Theyk nowthevalue
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R C A 17
rethe mostwatchfulofall
sgivethemagreat advantage,
oo -outoverthebushesw hich
whenseentheyare generally
ut ofshot.Theyaregood
beginto strollandfeeduncon-
putaboutfivehundredyards
thehunter.Aftermanyfutile
ucceedinreachingonewith a
ay,deliveringconvulsive
avedemolishedanyman. B esides
eaw ay theshan -bonesandfeetas
usfollowerspurloinedthemin
mupforthemarrow .
rtwelveanimalsstanding
lyarev isible , andtheblac - t ipped
of in uiry,havetheappear-
ieswithextendedwings.These
singulargrace informand
c withthem,andtheyseemto
shoot. Whendisturbed, they ta e
ewith flyingleapsofastonishing
theyappeartodothesame insheer
rstsuccesswith theseanimals
adseenseveralherds,buteither
ththem, ortheyw eresoa lertthat
ebegantosee foragoodspot
ourselvesunderaspreadingthorn-
tw emademuchofour" tif f in-
o fma ingourse lvesascomfort-
mitted,andavoidingthemid-
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R C A 19
zeoverthe topsofthemimosa
.Mylicence permittedmeto
day I didthiswithtw osucces-
fromthespotwhere I stood.
les,so thatI hopedthebreed
ished butI mustconfessthat
onlyaftertheevent,anddoes
science.
wasover,M.would
undertheescortof oneof
ors insomebirdw hichI
dtosomeof thesic men, o f
everal,willingnay,anxious to
atment.I nspiteofour ignor-
hatw edidnothingtosha ethis
chcasesisto choosearemedy
ista able.Thusweapplied
allcases,becausetheirtrail is
he suffererisproudofhis
des,heisinno hurryforanother.
fromtheeffects ofover-eating,
he j igger,orboringflea.This
A tlanticf romtheWestI ndies,
erica,wor editswayacross
amto ld, begunto invadeI ndia.
ng-notes wehavehitherto
chhas itsownpeculiarfauna.
theopenpla inw eshouldf ind
chdonotsooften see covertthe
variety )w ithitshighw ithersand
sgazelle,thehandsomestofall
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A NTR P S
hin , outsideB rit ishandGerman
outhernAbyssinia.Themale
,andcarrieslyratehorns over
othergameinthisregion,
ild,beingmuchhuntedfrom
stricton themountain.
ngthemwasincreasedowing
hgrasshadgrownonthe
inthatI triedto f la ttenmyself
riA licoulddo, hebeingavery
etheexhortationsheaddressed
ypositionduringthisandmany
srenderedstil lmore ir somebya
ornyspi es,whichcoversthe
otherinstrumentoftorture is
oundsineverygame-district.These
sonat everyentry,andinflict
achaherdof " Grants. A t
eytantalisedusbymovinga
asthesunonmybac , and
hadexhaustedthelastves-
ggestbuc sbeganfighting,
seacloudof reddust.The
d beheard,buttheywere
eingmychance,I ranin.
off,andthereremainedonly
edgeofwhichthecontending
ared.I firedatoneofthese
y,astherangewasstilltoo great,
nonoticeof theshot. I ran
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R C A 21
et atshorterrangetold
sic nessofdeathupon
tly pursuedbyhisantagon-
athis easyvictory.Both
use,andthe pursuitwascon-
ateasyrangethewounded
shot,andthevictor,
naltyof hisownlifealso.
mpsoonbroughtoutascoreof
ourlatereverypot wassimmer-
meat,to themanunwonted
ctionswhichma eserv ice inan
opopular.
rnedk ind,areatpresent
aredwillnotlong remainso.
tain thic bush,lyinginthe
ismallpig- l i eears butthey feed
rsethenveryconspicuous.
blindnessandstupidity,theyare
eed,evenwhentheintruderis
her reluctanttogetoutof the
harge.Myfirstrhino,though
astern-chaseoffourhours
ncewecameupwith him
when hedashedoutun-
tsI sprangbehindatree,and
putting anendtothe hunt.
w as s e ve r el y t a e n t o ta s b y A li .
gain,itledus acrossariverand
sexceedinglydensecovert,
hlyexciting,as itwascertainthat
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TR PS
w eshouldcometoveryclose
olong,however,thatwe were
gitforthenight,and Alihad
hegroundtomar thepo intw e
undedanimalj umpedupwithin
w astooquic forhim, andsoon
s. I nthisa loe-scrubI found
hefreshtrac ofelephants.
roundforKir ' sgaze lle , the
s.Anotherrhinoceroswhich I
eAthiplains laysoundasleepin
d, w ithoutanyattemptatconcea l-
eyards.When I fired,he
htfor me,sothathismassive
svital parts,andI couldnotfire
tandingup,I waitedreadyto
verhisoriginalintentionsmayhave
andpassedthreeor fouryards
ysecondbulletinto himalmost
Eithershotwouldhavebeen
ngtwohundredyardshe
wn,anddiedwithoutfurthermove-
reaccidentshavehappenedin
sthanfrom lions.Thisis
eraretooblind andstupidto
manuntilheis veryclose,when
ntheopenitshouldnotbe
inbushitisotherwise.
a rhinocerosdoesnotdaunt
esthetas w ithacheerfulcon-
,and evenwhilecuttingupthe
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R C A 23
ringlumpsofrawmeatinto his
tisersforthefeastto come.The
amp,hesits downinabusiness-
ughit. Thehun sofmeatare
w hichisplantedamongtheembers
hile thismealisbeingcon-
g,andthisgoes on,withbrief
houttheday,andeventhenight.
yforstowingfoodisbalanced
aordinary,ofprolongedfasting.
w hen" posho" forsixdayshasbeen
stof themenhavefinished
e.Buttheycheerfully
andcarry theirloadswithout
ucometothin o f it , it isnot
weshouldbeable tolastfrom
rfoodsupply isconstant, theirs
ndant.Thustheyarebuilt
witha" largecoalcapacity.
dthecampfullo fmeat, I cut
mer byone-half.Butthiswas
sdrewupin alonglinein
gnalthat theyhavea
edthattheyweretoowea from
s, andthattheydidnotli e
rstand,fortheyhadhadsuch a
ty-fourhoursaswould suffice
seriousdifficulties.O wing
upplies,aretreattoourbase on
able.Moreover,anoutbrea of
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N TR P S
ourporters.TheSwahilisare
dbe, andeasilymightbe,
natthecoast.Thisis aserious
sultofit, combinedwiththe
estrictedimportationof small-
s thedangerofits spreading
nwasaseriousone. I nsucha
unableeither tomoveorsuccour
iousdilemmahow toreconcileour
enmenwiththesafetyof the
,thetwomenfirstattac edwere
sentthemunderescortto
solatedandprovidedfor,and
therrecovered.Subse uent
ey arose,withthebestmeans
thetrialsof acaravan-leader
rheadmanconcealedoneofthese
heman carryasmalltent.I
burn it,anincidentthemore
econtainedthefeathersofoneof
dshot.Thesehadalsoto be
iliman arodistrictwasa
en withinadayanda halfof
aggardcommissariatcolumn.
urrelief, theyhaddevotedtheir
ngasmuchas possibleofthe
henalmostwithintouchof
y bicycle,whichhadbeen
metime,gavewaywithabang
alitiesof theroad. B ut, asit
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1 . ' . .1 li C S .
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R C A
eenscarcely possibletouseit
nsfromtheironway.
nginstinctofmy menasserted
ectlywellthedaybefore
mpla ints. I lac edthes il lto
doffarounddozenof slee
Thefaithfulfiftywhoremained
rselves,intwodaysthe
ght tothe308thmile,
River.AtTavetawe had
ntheterritoriesof theW ateita
helinetraverses,evidencesof
ded.Thenativesseenfrom
terthanw al ings e letons,
nsweregroupsoffound-
tswhohad perished.The
fficershaddonetheirutmost
hosewithin reach butnoone
starvation,orthefelldisease
s,claimedmostvictims.
dmilestherailwayrunsthrough
ngalmostleafless,issingularly
llyopensouttopar - l i ecountry ,
e,theAthi plainsarereached
elevationoffivethousand
ethin patcheswhichmar
thiRiverandits affluent,
essofthe grassattracts
indeed,itis doubtfulif,for
blegame,it canbematched
ayonthat continent,or
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N TR P S
mthewindowsofthetrain
rtebeest,gazellesofthetwo
lyaftertheexplorersThomson
impala,steinbuc ,andwilde-
havedreamedof,butnever
eniaby thecrossingof the
amesuggestsaplaceof con-
of facttherew asnothingbutthe
emanyothers,ofalittle green
aw ater-tan . H ardbyC apta in
amped,andwethoughtourselves
a sportsmanandnaturalist.
ofa menagerie,andcontained,
erallions,a youngzebra,a
mson sgaze lle , tw ofalcons, aparrot,
s.H indewasappointedC om-
e,small campsofwhomwere
ma. H ehadsucceededinestablish-
withthis people,ashorttime
bein EastAfrica.Theywere
sandherds, w hichtheyw ere in
raiding theirneighbours.
edsomanycattlethat there
nasformerly,andtheMasai
but" w hentheDev ilw assic ,
be, andI thin thepropensity is
hewar-paththeytrustin hand-
enmassewithheavythrusting
etheWa ambaandWandorobbo,
odsandthepoisonedarrow,a
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fc J k
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R C A 87
on.O wingtothisdifferenceof
mba, andothertribeshabitually
h,whoarethe mostsuccessful
Masai,beingcattle-owners,do
eat.
nsufferedfromthe coldin
the Europeantheclimateof
gorating,andthereisa glorious
st expanseofsun-driedgrass
lifeisgivenbythe herdsof
etime ofourvisitat anyrate,
ar co lour, themostconspicuous
plainisthewildebeestor
blac un emptmanegivesita
nce, l i esomepatriarcha lB oerof
malsmasstogetherinvery
ingtowateror iffrightened,
bitsandappearancesomewhat
nof theAmericanprairies.I t
heywillnotsufferthe same
adlythinned.TheMasai are
isspeciestonurturetheir tame
harrying thewildebeesthad
ildnearLu enia butriding
a inH indetothesouthward, I f ound
omparativelyeasytoapproach.
bullsw itharightandlef tshot, onefor
fit,andone formyownmen.
, w hichcarriedavery f inehead, I to ld
a lldlit, asitshow edsignsof life .
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TR PS
w nandw al edontoexaminethe
dsfartheron.I nthemeanwhile
ecamesoviolentthatAlicould
tlastitstaggeredto itsfeetand
sitationchargedf irstoneshi ari
llyitgallopedoffafterthe rest
din thedistance.H indesent
trail.Theyreturnedsome
theanimalbut failedtocome
threew ee slater, whenI
hood,thatthehornswere
sthavingbeenpulleddownand
ofmyportersI hadtow ait
tuptoMacha ostoengagesome
eaveryhandy loto f recruits
reW anyamwezi,whosetribal
f theGreatLa e. I w asto ld
ves" foreating inthe irown
llers tale,orrathera taletold
emthemostcontentedand
ncountered.
uppliedwithhumantransport,
tsmobility,andwe marched
heA thi, theothersidebeing
eshallow poo lso f theriverw ere
andotherwaders,whileon
erandlesser bustardsand
-bird,whosegaitresemblesthat
ts. Theyhadallbeentoo
roachwithagun,butspecimens
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R C A 29
ampleoccupationwhilewe
erew ereplentyofThomson s
ofallthelesser Africangazelles,
mmy . I t isdecoratedw ithabroad
ngetosay, thisconspicuousmar
adistance.Thezebra,another
sprotectivecolouring,almost
atfivehundredyardswitha
emalesandyoungmalesofGrant s
rpeasthe" Tommies, butit
s,perhapsbecausewhenthey
phornsthey nolongerre uire
Tommies ma ethepla inlive ly
e anotherforlongdistances
eed.
ydescribed,thewater-buc
thinamileofthe river.O wing
d largesize,itis easilyfound.
r,theareafre uentedbythem
n thatthisanimalisingreat
estspecimenI broughthome
ormebya lion.I tmusthave
oew epitchedcamp, andw ithina
menfetchingwatermust
beforehecould beginhismeal.
eryeasilyshotout. They
ich,thoughsometimestwoor
tenarrow.Theymustcomeupto
pefromtheunscrupuloussports-
niaandforsomewaydownhave
em,andit wasnottillwe got
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N TR P S
i, thirtymilesfarthernorth,
ls.Thereis apoolthereof
eremainson theban sshowed
by theWa amba. The irmethod
n thepool,constructedofthe
nthistheycrouch, waiting
geapoisonedarrow,whichdoes
f thes inispenetrated. Where
hipposinthecourseofageshave
es,q uitetenfeetbelowthegeneral
rpassagetoandfromthe land.
malishada narrowescape
hadsenthimacross theriver
accompaniedbyanas ari, to loo
Accordingto theiraccount,they
a- i uyu, andonearrow
sbreeches,fortunatelywithout
eWa- i uyuhavegenerallyproved
totravellers.Thereasonofthis
vators,theyhaveconstantly
sing caravans.
ttracts largenumbersof
tmoreof theseanimalshavebeen
rossingthanatanyothersinglespot
eceivedaletterfroma friendwho
tsteps,andwhodescribesseeing
her,closetotheplacewherethe
uc w ask il led, sotospea , atour
-overs, it isamattero f luc to
time,andmanymenwhohave
avefailedtodoso.
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R C A
sstandingontheban
ttention.We k newthat
ntocarrion,and thatsome-
fromit.Searchinginthe bushes
oundthebody ofazebra
Thehandiw or o fa lionis
esamemovementthatheseizes
ec . Thechestisthentornopen
terw hichhebeginstoeatthe
scasetherew eresignsthatthe lion
ewas probablyonthecarcase
withdrewintothereedswhich
dtostone himout,buthe
eusand ourSomalihunters
manylionsabout,butit wasin
wuptrac s,thegroundalways
w iththehelpofGod, asA lisa id,
ercomethem.
hadlef tLu eniaonourw ay
hingatthe headofourcolumn,
ystroll inga longinI ndianf ile , on
usandyardsoft .Nowand
nedtheirheads toloo atmy
ginsightfor aq uarterofan
ithoutq uic eningtheirpace,over
ftheAthi,wherewefelt sure
eatofthe day.C ampwasat
edto loo forthem.M.begged
andasthe lionshadseenus, I
ldletuscometocloseq uarters.
isebutit isva intoreca llw hatI
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N TR P S
acase.I stipulated,however,that
way intherearw ithoneof the
rticularlyreliableman,by herside.
arisw ithme. Wegotdow nto
al ingalongit.Therewere
orderedwithrushes,and the
abouttw ofeethigh, w hilehere
small thorn-bushes.Thusthe
goodenoughtohideahare. We
throwinglumpsofdrymud
s.Mydaughterwassupposed
behind,butthis limitshein-
wnfavour,and wasnotmore
henthe crisiscame buttotell
ghto f l ionsgettingbac through
hesheltero f thehighban s
wethought agoodthing,as
e ly to lieclose . A rustling
ractedmyattention,andthen
nofalionrushing forward
nstant laterapatchof yellow
bushesinfrontofme,at which
dfortunatelymissed.Thiswas
ngwitha lionitis wellto
m,andtobeq uitesurewhat
enextminutea lionanda
covertandwereseentoppingthe
ndwereinstantlylost toview.
, andsaw themtrottingof facross
yyardsoff.Now,a heavyten-
eweapononewouldchooseto
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R C A 33
with,ata runninganimalatthat
yshothad noothereffectthanto
utw hile I w asgazingdisconso late ly
shappeningbehindme.Alion
ding-timemanner,andmy
methingwhichI couldnothear.
edw asthis. While I w asoutof
ban , athirdlionhadsnea ed
dhimselffacetoface withmy
hherimmediatelyshotathim.
a llyhitany thing, buttheshothad
ac towardsme.Doubtlesshe
atightplace,withguns in
ron oneside,forhebegan
posingmanner.Mydaughter
e iscomingforyou, and
totheedgeof theban he
camestraightfor meinto
n, fairly faced, se ldomcharges
ntent.Atanyratethis
rdsoff,anda ten-borebullet
er.H eretreatednoisily
ngsighto fhimagain, I gave
deadlyeffect,forI saw
ycapin triumph,andmy
sasasigna l, cameuptome,
I tw asnot, how ever. While
oaringbeganagain.I forgot
ntobeaccountedfor,and
hadseenfallwasonlypartially
nghimself.Nowwestoodin a
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TR PS
momentmydaughtersaid,
Alia lsosa id, " Y ounosee. Oh
dcaseofslow -sightedness, adefect
goodchance.I couldonly
ha successionofearth-sha ing
ecovertwasso thinthatitdid
nmalcouldconcea lhimselfA t
psdow ntheban toga inabetter
boundedoutfromthe
ndstoppedafewyards
oes.Stillconvinceditwas
beingsoclose,I aimedathis
himhalfaninchbelow
tintohischest. I t j ustmissed
dhimoverbac w ards. Though
twoorthreemoreshots
he ceasedalldemonstra-
nthatI rea lisedthatthis
nwoundedlion,andthat my
behindit.
uethe pointwhetherlion-
foryoungladiestoengage
btthat, butforM. spresence in
onswouldhaveescapedun-
ehadcome.Theywerefully
andin primecondition.
eaturewhichisgenerallynot
tAfrican lion.We stayed
dry thes ins, asmySomalis
out creditably andthen
northwards.
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R C A
nturethewholeoutline
ev isible forthef irstt ime thus
bitionwasrealised.This was
henthisq ueenofAfrican
arms,andI wonderedwhether
thenapproachingit,would
tcoldblan etwhichgenerally
rries.Swahiliportersbredon
weatherat highelevations,
edthenumbingeffectuponthem
vel.
eniaandformanymiles
poolswithoutanyapparent
nmilesbelowthatitbegan toflow,
etillitbecamea considerable
tthat noaffluentreachesit
ughI cannotbee ua lly certa in
aminclinedtothin thefacts
oundreservoirswhichmay
benefitof futuresettlers.
theAthi thepoolsassumethe
esandaremarginedwithbeautiful
eroswerenumerousinthese
yof fourononeoccasion. I
musedmyselfbystal ingthem
rticularwasvery suspicious,
ar enough,butatlengthhe
llmoundscommonhereabouts.
edsuddenlyontothetoptoma e
whichhedidto admiration.
edli echarging, butwhenhe
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R C A
mlesswandering,I whistled.
y I ra isedmyvoicetoashout.
a lly , w ithgreatre luctance, I f ired
preferabletohavinga
onthetrac .Therewas
w aitno longer. Ta ingupthe
ac ingbroughtusw ithinsight
fseven,withoneverygood
j udgedf romtheblue-grey
Theywerefeedingq uietly
ndredyardsoff.This istoogreat
aheavyborerif le , andI began
thirtyorforty yards,andwas
shouldta etheshot, whenI
ingup behind,andwhistling
,standingboltuprightwith
thasw if tmotionI w aved
d, hopingagainsthope,
rise . J ustasI reachedit
entup,andtheydisappeared
ound, I f oundmyangelicboy
eelsw hile I laboriouslycraw led.
otata ll. Thisisa fa irsample
Swahili.This boymusthave
adozentimes andprofitedbyit.
vetheelands,hewasunableto
traintoproceedto rail-head
hewindowsofa wonderfultre
ssedeverythingwehadpre-
vincedthattheherdmusthave
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N TR P S
ousandofthese animals.They
a longlinewithsomeset
beentoomuchpersecutedelse-
terwaterorpasture.They
by thetrain,buthelda
uswepassedthewholecolumnin
moment.I tstretchedasfar
rections,thecountrybeing
vebeenq uite fourmileslong.
ecoursetheywouldpresently
wnofcorrugatedironand
ustsprungupinthemidsto f
ound.ThisisNairobi,destined
dw or shopof thera ilw ay .
onthsoldat thetimeofour
yaconsiderablepopulation.
mea dozenmilesbeyondNairobi,
evatedregionofgreenmeadow
esemeadowswereimmense
rnflower,fromwhichpro ected
ntscarlettritomas, the" red-hot
nsaf inecontrastw iththegrass.
swereengagedinspoiling Nature
urfarthestpo intw astheKi uyu
descendingtotheRift V alley.
thenintendedto beloweredtothe
eincline,butthe permanent
valleyhasnowbeencompleted.
nwegazedoverUgandaterritory,
rit bytheq uarantineagainst
ndus.Thusweturned coast-
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.
L Nt ,
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R C A
urseembar edatMombasa j ust
here.
lyas edwhetherourAfrican
tified, orw ill j ustify , the ircost.
tafinalanswer,butthere are
ichcannotbeignored,and from
lvisitor candrawlogicalin-
ectshisownobservationsbya
nformation.
EastAfricahas beenin
previouslytheC harteredC om-
ralyears.Nowthattherail-
heyshould beconsideredasone.
tedaProtectoratefora longer
artial civilisationhavethere-
tendedtoacountryaswideas
mbined,anditis nottoosoon
ainfromaneconomical,humani-
tofview.To whatextent,
efitedasthephilanthropists
ealthbeendiscoveredas the
mpirebeenstrengthenedas
answerthelastq uestionfirst:
fview,no onecandoubtthat
urholdon theNilevalleyand
sitioninthe territoriesad oin-
stpeoplewillthin thatthefive
hascost wasaninsurance
ordto pay,anditis well
selveswiththis,for inthat
ppointed.
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N TR P S
ttoestimatethega inorloss
theindigenouspopulation.
ctstandsoutthatthe railwayhas
othe ini uit iesof theslave- trade
sabig itemtothecreditside.
nhasnot beenanunmixed
nourE uatoria lprovinces
the j iggerwerenotun now n
ndthereforecannotbesaid
e buteverynew facil ity
theris ofthesevisitations.
herona balanceofadvantages
r forthepresenceintheir
lectorsand s uadsof
gcentralisedcontrol,than
villagegovernment.O fcourse
s,butanenforcedpeace isa
variedbyoccasionalpunitive
areopposedto arrowsandthe
onfoundedwiththeguilty.W e
thatthepure-bredMasai,the
ntofEastAfrican races,are
sbecomingenervatedbyin-
dorfor evilinterferedwith
bycenturiesofintertribalwar.
an eringforsomecornerof thew orld
xistencemaygoonwithoutlet
government.W eareestab-
lk indsofwildbeastsare to
nw enotex tendsucha
manspecies,to thisextent
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R C A
mselves,andthestrongest
moreinterestingthanthefour-
htheirideasoflife areinscrut-
all,insomerespects,beable
seremar shaveofcourse
sionaries,whowereestablished
thepresentregime,andare
stem.
mparedtherailw ay toabac -
pertinently , " W hatisabac bone
tusexaminehow farsinew sand
ow uproundthebac bone. In ap-
ospectsoftherailwayone must
oductsthatare worthconsider-
ldpaytoconveytothe coast.
dtothoseproductswhichhave
totheir bul .Grain,forin-
reeorfourhundredmiles of
uldprobablybeundersoldby
vory,coffee,andrubberarethe
nerallyreferredtoasfulfilling
y islitt leenough, andthequantity
hasthe oldnativehoardsof
d.Theexportof itin1900-
amountedtotwo-thirdsof the
Thereare practicallyno
erepeatedtheexperimentof
dsandattemptedtogrow cof feeasa
butscientificexperiments,appar-
nmadebythehead ofthe
heneighbourhoodofK ampala,
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TR PS
ningofanimportantindustry.
yintheforests,butare liableto
lessdestructionof theplants. I ts
nativelabour,andthe nativeis
C ongoStatetheBelgianshaveno
ymethodswhichwouldnotbe
y.H ereagaintheq uantityex-
rious decrease.ButI havesaid
ture isobscurenot necessarily
dw ithenergymayma ethe
ftherailwaylastyear were,
000,andthiswasrathermorethan
earnings butofthe10,000tons
asfortheupwardtraffic.Now,
afficthatourhopesforthe
mafraidthatthediscrepancycan
tle armyof20,000coolies
on,towhoseneedsthis large
nditisobviousthatthis demand
yis finished.
ase,andtheupwardtraffic
ybalancesthedownwardor
tonemust expectasnotunli ely
anadiminutionto lessthan
nalearnings,unlesstheoutput
meextraordinarystimulus,or
isesamongthenativeraces.At
nstopurchaseanything,and
labour,andthattheyareun-
money.Norarethereat
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R C A 43
sw hocanbeloo edtoasthe
cepta fewdistributingagencies
sionaries.
edtheV ictoriaLa e,and
apsanenormousterritorywhich
es.Butevenhereitwouldbe
phecies.Thesecountriesare
ntelligenttravellersofseveral
edtheminmanydirections,but
doradohasso farbeenlocated.
oroughscientific exploration
aturalfields,butuntilthathas
tocounton" cargoesofspice
maybealteredinafew months,
ntto this thatwemust
nthef ivemill ionssun inthe
ntingentmilitaryadvantages
nperiodthewor ingexpenses
earnings,butmustremaina
yer.
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E
eq uartettew hichformedmy
ascompleted.Ernestand
mV ienna. " TheB oy , w how as
ver beforecrossedtheC hannel,
e itsshareofbadluc , andit is
itoverearly.ThusmyAustrian
periencetofind thelinebloc ed
fNaples,andwerecompelledto
e, wherethey lostaparto f the ir
formedpilgrim spenance,for
betweenDoverandC alais.
rswereloweredinaboat, wemen,
beddownoverthe side,clinging
e-ladder,andwal edtwomiles
alais.The400mail-bags(it
subse uently thrownoverinto
eevidenceof thesametreatment
ftertheseabnormalexperiences
fromallfurtherdisaster,and
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TR PS
ndnessofthefateswasnot
mewindandtide favouredus,
hichwehad calculatedfitted
whichhadmarchedfromthe
le , metusatatry stun-
60milessouthofKhartoum. But
stsoverallwhohave
held meforfortyyears and
crethan eringoflongstanding,
thepublicationofB a er sboo sin
soughttocarrymyk nowledge
hartoumandbeyond,asfaras
a,andtheSirdarin hiswisdom,
eI hadbeeninAssouanwas
eingamongotherNubian
lion,tiedbyarope toa
dinghimself. Sincethatdate
w herehecamef rom. Now I w as
of hisrelations.Thespot
adbeen dischargedisnow
,butthis C apuadidnotdetain
ailsofthe dam,destinedsoonto
ceryofPhilae noragainthe
el,whohavegreeted the
cecounted,andeven now
ur effortstoharnessthe
feet northefriendlyamenities
weagainenteredthedust-laden
utof thebigNilebend, norlef t
tH alfeyeh,ontherightban
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E47
ppositesidetheUnionJ ac
vef loatingoverthes uaref ront
feredafriendlygreeting,which
nearitGordonC ollege, thenrising
ftheoldregimeand thenew.
gbehindazarebaof boxes,we
antsandtwoSomalishi arisA li
heformerofwhomhadaccom-
Theyshouldhavebeenherea
erof preparationsbeforeourarrival,
dunderthechargeofoneHassan,
ameof dragoman,butwas
Now,thiswasserious,becausethe
ypostponeduntilthefollowing
ardsofthemonthlygunboat
thesouthernposts,couldnotbe
r.The searchforwater-s ins
wellasthe formalitiesconnected
reofanuggar,the purchaseof
eluccaor rowing-boat,andthe
oOmdurman, w or w hichmight
s,hadtobe compressedinto
sulhasrecentlytoldhis
sofstrangers,whetherforsport
ayswelcometotheofficers who
y.I fthesewerethesentiments
mdurman,theyartfullyconcealed
dialco-operationweshould
visionoflabouramong
herest.
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N TR P S
toftheGovernmentofficeswere
visitandall themerchanta
swithitsmud-walls,sand-swept
othatthe variouspointstobe
esedistancesI endeavoured
butbe ingtop-heavyatthebesto f
on anungirthednativesaddle
strongpoint.Thusmyobserva-
ofthesights ofO mdurmanby
the peoplethemselves,andthe
misthemar etthegossiping-
sassemblyoftribesmen.The
danwasin fullswing andto
andsoft laughterwhichaccom-
thatthesegood-naturedblac s
ndrapine. Herew ereDin as
,broad-shoulderedShillu s,and
mbeyondtheSwamps,whilethe
awhohasenslavedthemallin
mwithcontemptuousmien.
wastogatherall the
udanunderhis owneye
ener soccupationthecity
uarterofamillioninhabitants,
ionshadbeendepopulated,and
fabulouspricethatthesystem
dow nby itsow nw eight. F rom
heyhadbeencollectedatthe
eyexhibitanextraordinary
infulA rabof thecon ueringrace
dwiththeseothersthehappy-
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E
danese.H owevermuchthey
,theArab typek eepsitselfdis-
erfulprogenitors,andshows
uras bylineaments.BothArabs
f ighters, andmanyof theKhalif a s
viceunderourf lag. Whetherany
atred itisimpossibleto say
orgetshisprideofrace, thefull-
faithfullywhatevermasterspay
tosay,hewilldo soaslong
everycombustiblematerialof
Buttheexplosiveis theretoo
andit isdifficulttounderstand
endedby ustobeused.
ngtotheDin atribewere
and gun-bearers,andwehoped
fulasinterpreterswhenwe got
men.Thesemen,li emostof
ysi uebutphenomenallylazy
seems mostcharacteristicof
heDin as, ownandherdcattle ,
ygreatextent.
eSirdarexercisesabenevo-
uthisleavewecould notta e
ess sgunboatZ af ir, orindeedtrave l
. Hispermittousextendedto
hiteNileasfarasF ashoda
extendingourexplorations
of courseweregardedasa
adsomegoodreasonforlaying
nthesud-country,but itisto
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TR PS
leroutewhichhasnowbeen
esaboveK hartoumwill
vellers,whethertheywearthe
y in uiriesastotheanimals
ur sportinginstinctswerestirred
slationofan officialreportj ust
ntfromanativeEgyptianofficer
eWest: " 1amobligedtow rite
aredev ilsandw ouldnotk eepmy
pardonformybadpenmanship.
ycometomycountry it is
t s f ac e i s li e a t i ge r , an d i t is a s b ig
consistso fe ightrow s. I thas
cattle,andeatsmen also.The
withouteffect.I thereforebeg
,byyourwisdom,sendussome
nimal. Thoughweneverdis-
ourselves, it isclearlyworththewhile
smantosecuresuch atrophy.
hiteNilesouthofGoz
fcamels, butC o lonelJ ac sonhad
arrangew ithanA rabshei hto
als,withtheir necessarycamel
ntheBlueNile, wherelarge
Arab tribes,toK awaonthe
rabouttwo hundredmilesalong
tnearJ ebe lA chmetA gha, w here
. O urchie fanx ietynow w as
menwouldhavesufficientfaith
manwhomtheyhadneverseen
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E
chof threehundredmiles,two-
hroughacountrytotallyun-
eepatrystthedateofw hichcould
nedbeforehand.
theday fo llowingourarriva l
parationsandgottogetherthe
re uipment therestw ehad
cloc w ew entaboard. The
inadespairingsearchformy
ctofaimlesswanderingma es
oshepherd.I lostmyselfin
rderedby highmud-walls,
encounteredthemasthey
-shop,wheretheyhadbeen
seof time.Theyloo ed
ngwhiterobes whichSomalis
metersomewhereupinthree
melting mood,butnottowards
raliw il lrememberthechildli e
thatlittle manassumesonsuch
r, w astriple -dec ed, thebattery,
andtwoNordenfelts,being
utdec , w hiletheupperdec w as
ssengers,andon thelowesttier,
rewlayamongthe luggagewhich
ot all.W ecarriedwithus
das afloatingvillage.Lashed
erous" sandal orironbarge
ertierswerec rowdedwithan
milies,togetherwith as uad
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N TR P S
riedashewersofwoodwherewith
erdec wasoccupiedbya
els,horses,anddon eys,aswell
Asif thiswasnotloadenough
ne,three" nuggars ornative
gandbroad inproportion,
e.Theonehiredby uscarried,
nts,luggage,andten sheep,and
w ho" didfor the lot. This
denoughindustrytocompensate
ofher malerelationswhosailed
rshek neltontheprow engaged
abourofgrindingdourabetweentw o
sallthe time,whileherlighter
coo inginalittle dog-holeofa
erthe plan s,whencemysterious
uedtobeemittedli ethosemade
box . A sourcoo hadcomeon
greatmindtosecurethew ill ingo ld
enmorecrowded.I
one ofthem.Thewonder
r. Oneinfactdidso , and
ope.These peoplewerebeing
ofchargebytheGovernment,
ofdecentralisation.Thisis
racts maybecultivatedand
ethedemand,butbecausean
iblyturbulentpopulation,
the seatofgovernment.
erofbabies,the residenceofthese
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E63
asnotbarrenofresults,and it
tits soinswhichgreathul ing
tof theirblac mites.These
hehomelyvirtues.I tisstrange
s shouldhaveemergedfrom
lifa scity .
beforew edrew aw ay f romtheban ,
artherupfor belatedpassengers
asafterfourbeforewe passed
sand ourstern-wheelerbeganto
d,which averagesaboutfour
urrent. Andnowatonce
hevoyagetheteemingbird-
dngbac o f thew aterof the
dousfloodsofthe BlueNile,
nof low-water,widestretches
oreandlow-lyingban s.These
g-groundsof vastfloc sof
s. TheriveroppositeOmdurman
fgullsand terns,unexpected
dmiles fromthesea,butwhether
bredinthemarshesI donotk now .
thenight wehadonlymade
tspacew ehadseenhugef loc s
demoisellecranes, coal-blac ibisand
lls,blac -headedgulls,pelicans,
wingedgeese,teal,andruddy
of thelast-namedsittingatthe
brilliantpieceofcolourin the
stor sandibishavethehabit
thesun andw henarow of
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TR PS
ttitude,theyhavethe appear-
theirs irtsw ithbothhands.
thesebirdsshiftedtheirground
gwithagreatclatter.The
thel istofbirdsobserved
awhitebodywithblac head
doubtthestri ingappearanceof
e ancientEgyptians,who
ummiedthematdeath.I
rararevisitorinLow erEgypt.
restedcrane,waspresent,but
outmylong-rangecamera,from
gs,buta steadyfoundationis
t,andI soonfoundthatthe
dea well-definedpictureim-
givenwerereallyta enata
gpicturesofbird-life,the
spanoramaoflivelyscenes.The
ezireh,orisland,as thatportion
edbetweenthetwoNiles,seems
rhoodofthe riverinthedry-
dsofcattleor goatsaccompany
gisthat thesefloc sshould
edepredationsof theK halifa,
ehiddenfromthegreedyeyesof
eranges,or itmaybethathe
pthisrichdistrict asafavoured
mdurman. A llday theban s
edamovingscene ofmen,
hiscontinuesforabouta hundred
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E
artoum.Beyondthatthepopula-
ddenbytallriverinevegetation.
ngagedin sowingtheislands
pearingabovetheretreatingwaters.
xw ee slaterthemudhaddis-
crop.Somevillagesofstraw
theban .Theremusthave
bac , to j udgef romthenumber
ed,besidesourselves,oftwo
woAmericanmissionarieson
shstationamongtheShil lu s, and
oceedingto theremoteststation
dwho,beingthe onlycom-
,wastechnicallyincommandof
himhissolitarybanishment,
intstoma eofhisprospects.
mandsinremotedistricts,away
nionship,mustbeasevere
doubtfuleconomy.
hesegunboatsbythe
nt,buttheyareexpectedto
selves.We messedtogether,the
inturnsto feedasmanyasthe
ereweretwoor threesmall
theyweretooa irlesstosleepin,
edwedividedup thenarrow
iveangereeps.Thesenativebed-
tedstripsofs inonaw ooden
dcomfortablelyingwhenwell
oadonacamel. Thenex tday
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; . ]
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E67
circumventthemistopost
ndthem,andsendbeatersround,
adshots.Theirnumbersare
partsofthej unglehavethe
poultry-yard.Theymustcome
waterandfeedonthemarsh.
osay thattheyareneverout
erun. O noneoccasionI saw
somew hichtheyhadcutof f ina
edafutileproceeding.A more
edbythemisalongc ordlaid
withanooseateveryrun used
eyaredriven. I t iscerta in
constantlysawthemintheir
nthesecondday , loo ingli e
dsmallfamiliesofhippopotamus
assedthe fordatAbuZ eid.
readofthesteamers,andonly
ment sbreathing-space. I f ancy
at fromthepassingboats,
minallyforbidden.I tisdan-
besidesbeing cruelandwasteful,
unlessit shouldenterthebrain,
a lsin sanddoesnotriseaga in
edon itsway.I wouldplead
etheactualcourseof theriver
wingnoshot tobefiredfrom
dalsosave thebird-lifewhich
rmtothisvoyage. I remember
1862,whichthenabounded
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N TR P S
hatandsuccessiveyearsagreat
withall theparaphernaliaof
isbagsofgeeseand otherfowl
ccessionwerenumberedin
dcoveredwithglory.H ehad
amforeverand adayfrom
pity ssa e letusavertthisvulgar
gionswhilethere istime.There
ntondestructionshouldtread
vernment.
dredmilesaboveK hartoum,
dottedoverwithlargemassesof
esor papyrus,whichhad
ndstrandedwiththe falling
win theirnewpositions.Pre-
ebeencarrieddownfromthe
sweadvancedtheybecame
t,untilatlengththey weremerged
getation,whichthenceforthlined
dthroughwhichitwasdifficult to
esusedbythenatives.I tformed
hgreweverwideraswe proceeded.
eregionof thegreata uatic
ngswimmersli ethepelicansor
theherons,night-herons,andfish-
f thebigf loc sofw aders, w hich,
orcethe shallowlagoonsand
rsh.Nativesthemselveswere
m,anditwasonlyonceor twice
gnarrowcanoesbeing poled
eedsbyana edf isherman.
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K .
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E
ing-boatsandalmosttotalabsence
ttheW hiteNileismostob-
tothe factthattheK halifa
casionallywesawcanoesformed
dwiththe endsbrought
w,somethingli ethoseone
ptiantombs.Theambatchis
chgrowsin marshyplacesnear
oof ra iltocarry loads. In
rywebeganto seelargergame.
numerous,andfromthegun-
eviewedtheshadowyoutlinesof
hadeofmimosa-thorns.
wn-comingbabur,asevery
dbyEuropeansandnatives
ntotheban sothattheouter
andalscameinto contact.Then
s thedenizensofthelowerdec
dattheirf riends, w hilethe" q ua lity
news,andthetwo" reises,
ersw hichcoveredtheupperdec ,
ditionofthe shallowsandother
nwasmostnecessarytous,as
navigationhenceforthbecame
zigzagprogresswasaccom-
dingsoundsunderthek eel.
ng-partyfoundtheirnuggar,
rd,andleft us.Thedisem-
oc , andespecia lly thecompulsory
ordedtothe wholecompanyhalf
. Threew ee slaterw eheard, toour
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TR PS
panionsofa wee hadhad
gto oneofthembeing
mentionthe incidentasaw arn-
enemygenerallyapproaches
r mil servedintaintedvessels.
oSelimArabs,fatherandson,
medTalib,becamemyconstant
d.H ehadthelocal k nowledge
islac ed. F romthemw eheard,
r.camelshadpassedontheir
previously,andwerewaiting
whichtheycalledTereba,fifteen
metAgha.Thelatterwasthe
retoldthat therewasnoprac-
e.I mayhereobservethata
ywhereinthe dryseason,
versethemarsh,andwhich
verformanymiles,hinder
mals anditis thereforeonly
seasy