Unit 7 Materials and Tools CARPENTRY - CareerTech … 7 • Materials and Tools CARPENTRY tech connect Carpenters work with many different types of materials and use many different

Unit 7 • Materials and Tools

CARPENTRY

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Carpenters work with many different types ofmaterials and use many different kinds of tools.It is important for a carpenter to have a goodknowledge about the properties of the differentmaterials he/she will use. This knowledge willincrease the effectiveness of the carpenter. It isalso essential that a carpenter know how tooperate many different kinds of tools efficientlyand safely. A carpenter's tools are very important to his/her livelihood. The more toolsa carpenter can operate the more options thatcarpenter has for creating quality work.

Objectives ———————

1. Identify the characteristics of woodused in carpentry.

2. Identify common defects in lumber.

3. Match types of wood to their uses.

4. Compute lumber quantities.

5. Select the characteristics of steelframing materials.

6. Select guidelines for hand tool safety.

7. Identify common carpentry handtools and select their uses.

8. Use a hammer. (On The Job Activity)

9. Use a hand saw. (On The Job Activity)

10. Use a level. (On The Job Activity)

11. Select guidelines for power tool safety.

12. Identify common carpentry powertools and select their uses.

13. Use a drill. (On The Job Activity)

14. Use a pneumatic fastener. (On The Job Activity)

TechConnect - STUDENT WORKBOOK 7 - 1 Materials and Tools - Unit 7

tech

connectUnit 7 • Materials and Tools

CARPENTRY

Unit 7 - Materials and Tools 7 - 2 STUDENT WORKBOOK - TechConnect

Objective 1:—————— Identify the Characteristics ofWood Used in Carpentry.

Wood can be characterized and classifiedmany different ways. It is important for acarpenter to be familiar with the differentcharacteristics so that he/she can pick thebest wood for the job.

When considering which type of lumber touse a carpenter should consider the follow-ing characteristics:

Kind of Wood: Woods are classifiedas either hard or soft. This classifica-tion has more to do with the type oftree than the actual hardness of thewood. A builder may want to use aparticular species of wood, such asredwood, cedar, or yellow pine, for aspecific purpose based on theappearance or other characteristics oftheat type of wood.

Grade: Lumber is graded or classifiedbased on its strength, appearance,number of defects, and other factors.Methods of grading are outlined bythe American Lumber StandardsCommittee and then detailed lists ofgrades and standards are developedby the various lumber producers'associations. Examples of the associations for softwoods are theSouthern Pine Inspection Bureau,California Redwood Association, andthe Western Wood ProductsAssociation. Hardwood grades areregulated by the National HardwoodLumber Association.

Size: Lumber produces come in standard sizes based on width, thickness, and length. Size may beactual or nominal. Nominal size is thesize of the material before final processing and tends to be largerthan the actual size after drying andshaping.

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Sawing Method: Most trees aresawed so that the growth rings forman angle of less than 45° with thesurface of the boards produced.Such lumber is called flat-grainedin softwoods or plain-sawed inhardwoods. Wood that is cut withthe growth rings at an angle greaterthan 45° is called edge-grained insoftwoods and quarter-sawed inhardwoods.

Drying Method: Lumber is dried toreduce its weight, to decreaseshrinkage, and to improve usability.A number of considerations go intodetermining the correct moisturecontent for lumber. Generally all thecarpenter needs to understand isthat green lumber, which is lumberthat has not been dried and with amoisture content over 20%, willshrink more than air-dried or kiln-dried lumber. A kiln is a large heatedoven that is used to speed the dry-ing process of lumber and othermaterials.

Surface Finish: Lumber producersplane wood to give a smooth finishto one or more surfaces for specificpurposes. Lumber may be rough,with no finished surface; smooth-one-side (S1S) with one wide sur-face planed; smooth-two-sides(S2S) with both wide surfacesplaned; or smooth-four-sides (S4S)with all surfaces planed.

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Southern Pine Inspection Bureauhttp://www.spib.org/

California Redwood Associationhttp://www.calredwood.org

Western Wood Products Associationhttp://www.wwpa.org/

Visit the followingsites to discover

more about lumber producers’

associations:

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Objective 2:—————— Identify Common Defects in Lumber.

Because wood is a natural product it issubject to environmental forces that affectits properties. Wood can develop whatare generally known as defects while it isgrowing and after it is cut into boards.These defects can affect the strength anduse of the wood. Sometimes the defectsare seen as an attractive feature of thewood.

Crook: A crook occurs when aboard is warped or bent along itslong edge creating a convex or con-cave side. It can be caused byimproper drying or storing of theboard. (Figure 1)

Bow or Warp: A bow or warpoccurs when the face of a boardcurves and will not lay flat on thewide sides of the board. This isoften caused by improper storage.(Figure 2)

Cup: A cup occurs when there is aconvex or concave bending of theboard across the grain of the lumber. It may be caused when oneside of the board dries at a different rate then the other side.(Figure 3)

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Twist or Wind: A twist or windoccurs when board twists orappear to have been wound. Theends of the board twist in differentdirections. This may be caused byeneven drying or by the conditionunder which the wood grew in thetree. (Figure 4)

Check: A check is a break orcrack in the board along thegrowth rings. Checks are normallyfound at the end of the board.They are normally caused by rapiddrying of the board. (Figure 5)

Knots/Knothole: Knots are hard,dense and often darker coloredareas in lumber. They are createdwith a branch is embedded intothe tree as it grows. Knots may be intergrown, encased, spiked, ordecayed. Knots are sometimes considered attractive in lumberand are left in to suit the type of construction that will take place.(Figure 6)

Insect hole or Worm holes:These are created by some woodboring insect that digs or eatsholes in the lumber.

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FIGURE 6

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http://www.woodzone.com/articles/common.htm

INO - A Canadian Company Using Technology to Detect Wood Defects

http://www.ino.qc.ca/en/syst_et_compo/wivs.asp

Visit the following sites to discover more about wood defects:

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Objective 3:—————— Match Types of Wood ToTheir Uses

Common softwoods and their uses arelisted below.

Aromatic red cedar and incensecedar - closet linings, fence posts,paneling, interior and exterior trim,and decking

Western red cedar - shingles andshakes, lumber, poles, posts, piles,and exterior siding

Bald and pecky cypress - Millwork,planingmill products, tanks, silos,exterior and interior trim, siding andshingles, soundproof and rustic paneling; The pitted holes in peckycypress make it a good material forsoundproofing paneling.

Douglas and white fir - constructionlumber, plywood, veneers, planingmillproducts, timbers, tanks, silos, trim,moldings, cabinets, flooring, doors,and sashes; Douglas fir is one of ourmost valuable timber trees.

Western hemlock - millwork products such as doors and windows, utility lumber, plywood, cabinets, and trim

Larch - utility lumber, plywood,veneers, planingmill products, trim,moldings, cabinets, and flooring

Ponderosa, white, and yellow pine-planingmill products, cabinets, trim,molding, plywood, paneling, doorpanels, subflooring, sheathing, shelving, and utility lumber; Thepines are probably the most valuablegroup of timber trees in the world.They not only supply wood and pulp,but also supply natural resins including spirits or turpentine, resin,tar, and pitch.

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tech con

nectRedwood - planingmill products,

tanks, silos, flumes, water towers,bridge timbers, trestles, exterior siding and trim, exterior ornamentation, fences, plywood,and paneling; Redwood is one ofnature’s outstanding wonders:Redwood trees can be destroyed byfire or felled by man or storm, butthere has never been an observedcase of a redwood dying fromnatural causes.

Sitka, Engelman, white, red, andblack spruce - general construction, planingmill products,plywood, cabinets, ladder rails,decking, and posts

Common hardwoods and their usesare listed below.

Alder or red alder (fruitwood) -cabinets, and it is a lowcost substitute for cherry

Northern brown ash - cabinets,fixtures, trim, and plywood

Southern white ash - fixtures, cabinets, plywood, plywood edging,and cabinetdoor moldings

Basswood - planingmill products,and moldings

Beech - planingmill products, andflooring; Beech is a sturdy, generalpurpose hardwood and is an excellent alternate for birch or hardmaple.

Northern birch - planingmill products, interior finish, trim, cabinets, plywood, veneers, dowelpins, dowel rods, screwhole buttonsand plugs

Butternut - interior finish and paneling

Oak - furniture, trimming, boat framing, desks and flooring

Cherry - furniture and cabinet work,plywood, paneling, veneers, screwhole buttons and plugs

Cottonwood - stair risers and general cabinet work

American elm - plywood and burlveneers

Sap gum and selected red gum -millwork, cabinets, plywood,veneers, plywood core stock, andcrating grade plywood

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Objective 4:—————— Compute Lumber Quantities

Lumber and certain related building materials come in basically three differentunits of measurement, each unit serving asthe basis for pricing such materials. Thethree basic units of measurement for lumber are board foot, square foot, and lineal foot. For example, 2x4 studs maycost ¢.26 a board foot, plywood may cost¢.22 a square foot, and molding may cost¢.18 a lineal foot. Also lumber suppliersoften give discounts for large quantityorders. For instance, they may have oneprice per board foot and a lower price for100 board feet (c bd. ft.) or per 1000 boardfeet (M bd.ft.).

Board Feet

One board foot is equivalent to a piece oflumber that is 12" wide, 12" long, and 1"thick or its equivalent. Common lumbertypes that may be measured by board feetare regular boards, dimension lumber,structural lumber, and shop and factorylumber. Dimensional lumber is lumber thathas not been surfaced or finished at thelumber mill. The measurements of dimensional lumber are the actual size ofthe piece of lumber. A dimensional lumber 2x 4 board will actually measure 2 inches by4 inches. Structural lumber is material thatis greater than 5" in thickness and width orlumber that is graded for strength andgreater than 2" x 4" and used to supportframing members. Shop and factory lumberis lumber that will be used for further fabri-cation, such as for moldings or door rails.


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To figure board foot use the following formula:

1. Multiply the Thickness (T) x Width(W) x Length in feet (L) x Number ofPieces (N)orT x W x L x N

NOTE: Use nominal sizes in figuringboard feet, except for lumber less than 1"thick, which is figured as 1". The nominalsize refers to the measurement before apiece of lumber has been surfaced or finished. A surfaced or finished 2 x 4 isactually 1 1/2" x 3 1/2", but when figuringboard feet use the nominal measurementof 2" x 4". EXAMPLE: A piece of 1/2" x12" x 12" is considered to be 1 board foot.

2. Divide by 12

T x W x L x N12

3. Round board feet to next full boardfoot.

EXAMPLES: 1 1/3 or 1.3 board feetis rounded to 2 board feet

1 1/2 or 1.5 board feet is rounded to2 board feet.

1 3/4 or 1.75 board feet is rounded to2 board feet.

1/2 or .5 board foot is rounded to 1board foot.

EXAMPLE:2 x 8 x 6 x 3 = 144

144 ÷ 12 = 12 board feet

Square Feet

One square foot is equivalent to a pieceof lumber equal to 144 square inches.Another way to think of one square foot isan area equal to a square with 12" sides.You determine square feet by multiplyingwith width by the length of a board orobject. Common lumber types that maybe measured by square feet are plywood,particle board, drywall, sheathing, paneling, and certain hardwoods, milledboards, and specialty products such asflooring and ceiling tile.

To figure square footage use the fol-lowing formula:

1. Area(A) = Width(W) x Length (L)

EXAMPLE: To figure the squarefootage in a 4' x 8' sheet of plywood:

A = W x LA = 4' x 8'A = 32 square feet

2. To find number of units needed(sheets, tiles, pieces, etc.), dividenumber of square feet to be coveredby the total square feet in one unit inwhich material is sold.

3. Round the fractional units to the nextwhole number in which the materialis sold.

EXAMPLE: To figure the plywood decking for aroof 20' x 41':

1. Use the formula A = W x L to get 820total square feet to be covered:

20 x 41 = 820.


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2. Next, divide 820 by the total squarefeet in one sheet of plywood (32square feet):

820 ÷ 32 = 25.625

3. Round this number to 26.

You would order 26 sheets of plywood tocover the area with no allowance forwaste.

Lineal Foot

One lineal foot is 12" or 1' in length. Thelineal foot measurement is simply the distance or length in feet of material thatis needed. To figure lineal feet you wouldmeasure the distance or number of feet ofmaterial required to cover the necessary

area. Common lumber types that may bemeasured in lineal feet are molding andtrim.

Molding and trim are sold in standardlengths of even-foot measurements. Mostsuppliers mix the lengths to get as closeas possible to the amount ordered. Forexample, a supplier would probably ship108 or 110 lineal feet of base if an ordercalled for 107 lineal feet. The buyer ischarged for the amount delivered, not forthe amount ordered.

Example: If a room were 10' x 15' and youneed to put base trim around the floor youwould measure the length of each walland add those measurements together.

10' + 10' + 15' + 15' = 50 lineal feet


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Objective 5:—————— Select the Characteristics ofSteel Framing Materials.

Wood has been the primary building material since peoplebegan building structures, but the use ofsteel has been gaining in popularity formany years in the construction industry.

The steel that is primarily used to makethe steel or metal studwalls is called cold-formed steel. Cold-formed steel issteel that has beenshaped, rolled, or cut into the desiredshape or size while the steel is at roomtemperature. Because the process doesnot uses heat it is called cold-formed.

Study the following advantages and disadvantages of using steel framingmembers and compare steel framing towood framing.

Advantages:

Cold-formed steel can be consistently produced to very exactstandards for strength, size, andshape

Steel prices have remained relatively steady over the years

Steel strength provides greaterdesign flexibility

Steel is non-combustible and fireresistant

Steel is insect resistant

Steel will not shrink, swell, twist, orwarp due to environmental conditions

Steel framing is light and easy tohandle

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Disadvantages:

Higher labor costs in some areasdue to lack of skilled labor

Lower R-value thermal resistancethan wood requiring extra insulationto raise R-value (generally wood hastwice the R-value of steel framedwalls)

Ghosting may occur: ghosting is thecollection of dirt and dust particleson the colder areas of wall surfaces

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http://www.steel.org/construction/design/gallery/gallery.htm

http://www.steelframingalliance.com

Visit the following sites to learnmore about cold-formed steel

and steel framing:


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Objective 6:—————— Select Guidelines for HandTool Safety

One of the most important aspects ofbeing a good carpenter is the attention tosafety and care of equipment. The tools acarpenter uses are valuable in terms ofcost as well as in terms of earning a living. It is very important for carpenters tocare for their tools to assure long tool life.It is also very important to follow safetyguidelines so that you and your fellowworkers are not injured. Knowing how tocare for tools and equipment and how touse them safely is a large part of the carpentry trade and something all carpenters should strive to achieve.

There are two primary classifications fortools used in carpentry. Most tools areeither hand tools or power tools.

The force or power for operating handtools normally comes from the personusing the tool, or muscle power.Examples of hand tools are hammers andpliers.

When working with hand tools you shouldalways seek to follow these guidelines:

Always follow OSHA rules and regulations. OSHA stands for theOccupational Safety & HealthAdministration and plays an important role in maintaining andenforcing safety on the job.

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Inspect tools frequently to makesure they are in good condition.

Keep tools sharp.

Keep tools clean.

Repair broken or damaged toolspromptly.

Dispose of broken or damaged toolsthat cannot be repaired.

Store tools properly when not in use.For examples, do not carry tools inyour pockets or place tools wherethey can roll off a surface. Do notstore them where someone can tripover them or step on them. Protectthe cutting edges and store tools ina dry place.

Stay alert when using tools.Examples of staying alert are keeping your fingers away from cutting edges and work away fromyour body when using cutting tools.

Wear professional protection equipment when necessary such aseye protection, hard hat, gloves, andsteel-toe shoes.

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http://www.osha.gov

Tool Safety Document:http://www.osha.gov/Publications/

osha3080.pdf

Visit the following sites tolearn more about OSHA and

tools safety:


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Identify Common Carpentry Hand Tools and Select Their Uses.

There are many different tools that a carpenter will use on the job. Some tools are veryspecific to certain types of carpentry work and may not be used by all carpenters. Othertools are used by all carpenters. The hand tools listed below are common tools that allcarpenters will probably use to do their work. The tools below represent only a smallnumber of the hundreds of hand tools available to carpenters.

Hammers

Curved claw hammer – used todrive and pull nails (Figure 7)

Straight-claw hammer – used todrive and pull nails, dismantle, andwreck (Figure 8)

Sledge hammer – used to drivestakes and break concrete;Sledgehammers used for forming operationsweighing from 6 pounds to 12 pounds,depending on the job (Figure 9)

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http://www.hammernet.com/anatomy.htm

Is it a hammer or a human? Some parts of a hammer are the head, cheek, claw, eye, neck, face, and throat. To find out which part is which

visit the following site.

FIGURE 7

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Saws

Crosscut and Rip handsaws –used to cut across the grain ofwood and normally have four totwelve points per inch with theteeth filed at an angle across theface; rip handsaws are used tocut with the grain of wood andnormally have 5 to 7 points perinch with the teeth filed squareacross the face (Figure 10)

Backsaw (miterbox saw) –used to cut fine joints; also usedin a miter box to cut miters orsquare ends (Figure 11)

Keyhole saw (compass saw) –used to cut inside corners,curves, circles, and frets (Figure 12)

Hacksaw – used to cut metal,such as reinforcing bars; hacksaws have U-shaped framesand replaceable blades thatcome in lengths of 8" to 12".(Figure 13)

Coping saw – used to cutcurves and to shape ends ofmolding and trim joints (Figure 14)

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Framing square – used to squarecorners, check square, and lay out90° angles (Figure 15)

Stair gauge – used with framingsquare to lay out the correct angle of stair steps (Figure 16)

Combination square – used tocheck square and to mark 45° miters (Figure 17)

Try square – used to measure andcheck 45° and 90° angles (Figure 18)

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FIGURE 15

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Speed square – used to mark andcheck angles (Figure 19)

Measuring and marking instrumentsand tools

100' tape – used to measure shortand long measurements with accuracy (Figure 20)

Folding rule (zigzag rule) – used tomake accurate inside and outsidemeasurements for laying out forms,laying out joints, and checking forsquare (Figure 21)

Steel tape – used to measure irregular as well as regular shapesand to make accurate inside and outside measurements (Figure 22)

Chalk box and line – used to lay outwork on concrete, to lay out cut lineson lumber, and to mark joints in con-crete (Figure 23)

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Builder’s level – used to set and check elevations (Figure 24)

Laser beam level – used toestablish and check eleva-tions and to establish, check,and transfer grades (Figure 25)

Spirit level – used to level formsand to transfer and check grades(Figure 26)

Torpedo level – used to checkgrades on short forms such as steptreads (Figure 27)

Line level – used to check grades of a dry line (Figure 28)

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FIGURE 24

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Plumb bob– used with levelinginstruments to establish exact building points (Figure 29)

Screwdrivers

Standard screwdriver(flat head) (Figure 30)

Phillips screwdriver(X head) (Figure 31)

Torx-head screwdriver(Figure 32)

Square-head screwdriver(Figure 33)

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Side-cutting pliers – used to hold,bend, shape, and cut wire (Figure 34)

Needle-nose pliers – used to hold and bend think wire and metalfittings and to hold small objects(Figure 35)

Combination slip-joint pliers –used to hold and turn small roundparts (Figure 36)

Channel-lock pliers – used to holdand turn large round parts (Figure 37)

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FIGURE 34

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Wrenches

Open-end wrench – has an accurate non-adjusting opening ineach end; used where there is plenty of clearance for movement(Figure 38)

Box-end wrench – has twoenclosed, nonadjustable heads thatmay be offset from 15° to 45°; usedwhere there is limited space formovement (Figure 39)

Combination wrench – has anopen-end and a box-end (Figure 40)

Adjustable wrench – has oneadjustable jaw and one fixed jaw;uses where there is plenty of clear-ance for movement (Figure 41)

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and one fixed jaw; used to work onpipes and rods (Figure 42)

Allen wrench – hexagonal steel barswith bent ends; used to tighten andloosen set-screws (Figure 43)

Ratchet socket wrench – contains aratchet that allows torque to be appliedin one direction only; is used with manydifferent size socket attachments(Figure 44)

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FIGURE 42

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Files – Files are used to smooth and shape surfaces on which edge-cutting tools can-not be used. Files come in a variety of shapes, sizes, and types of cuts. The file handleis used to slide onto the narrow end of the file to give the user a handle and more con-trol over the tool.

Mill (Figure 45)

Round (Figure 46)

Half-round (Figure 47)

Square (Figure 48)

Triangular (Figure 49)

Cant saw (Figure 50)

Knife (Figure 51)

File handle (Figure 52)●

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FIGURE 45

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Chisels– Chisels are used for joint construction, removal or stripping of excess material, and for cutting masonry and steel.

Wood chisel(Figure 53)

Cold chisel(masonry andsteel) (Figure 54)

Stripping chisel(Figure 55)

Pry bar (Figure 56)

Nail puller (Figure 57)

Brick chisel(Figure 58)

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FIGURE 53

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Clamps– Clamps are tools for binding orpressing two or more parts together andholding them firmly in their relative posi-tions. They are often used to hold piecesof wood together which have been gluedwhile the glue dries.

Bar clamp (Figure 59)

C-clamp (Figure 60)

Hand-screw clamp (Figure 61)

Locking C-clamp (Figure 62)

Spring clamp (Figure 63)

Web clamp (strap) (Figure 64)●

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nectLadders and Scaffolding – Ladders may be made of wood, metal, or fiberglass.

Scaffolding may be wood or metal and may be prefabricated or job built.

Stepladder Extension ladder Single (Straight)(Figure 65) (Figure 66) (Figure 67)

Prefabricated Roof brackets (Figure 69)scaffolding (Figure 68)

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Miscellaneous Hand Tools and Equipment

Shovels – used to dig holes,move loose material, and placeconcrete; common types arespade, scoop, round-point andsquare-point (Figure 70)

Utility brush – used in finishingand rubbing operation on concrete and to clean other tools(Figure 71)

Wheelbarrow – used to transport material such as dirtand fresh concrete at job site(Figure 72)

Sawhorse– used to supportmaterials while cutting, fastening,etc. (Figure 73)

Brooms – used to clean up workarea and to roughen surface ofconcrete (Figure 74)

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nectOn the Job Activity

Objective 8:—————— Use a Hammer Properly

Equipment and Supplies: For this Onthe Job Activity you need the following equipment and supplies:

� Safety equipment� Claw hammer� Nails� 2 - 2 x 4 blocks

Introduction: A hammer seems like a simple tool, but even for the simplest of toolsthere are right, wrong, efficient, and inefficient ways to use them. A hammer is one ofthe most used tools of any carpenter. It is used to drive and pull nails as well as to takestructures apart. Workers who do not use a hammer properly can cause accidents andinjuries to themselves and their fellow workers as well as damage to the materials at thejob site.

STEP-BY-STEP

DRIVING A NAIL

STEP 1 - Safety Equipment - Thefirst step of any job is to securelyfasten, attach, or put on therequired safety equipment. The useof a hammer requires a hardhat andeye protection (goggles, safety-glasses, faceshield). Once you have correctly puton your safety equipment you areready to use a hammer. (Figure 75)

STEP 2 - Grasp the Hammer -Grasp the hammer handle firmly nearthe end of the handle. Your handshould not hand off of the end of thehammer. A firm grasp is very impor-tant so that the hammer does not slipout of your hand when hammering and so that you candirect the power of your motion ontothe proper location. (Figure 76)

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FIGURE 75

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STEP 3 - Position Your Work - This step may actually come before or after yougrasp your hammer depending on the type of material with which you will beworking. In this activity the wood is small enough that you can position your workafter you have grasped the hammer. Face shield should be used whenever thereis a potential danger of face injury.

STEP 4 - Set Nail - Take the nail into your free hand and hold it in positionagainst the material you are going to nail. Raise the hammer slightly and give thenail a light tap to start the nail and to determine your aim. The motion required foryou to do this involves your wrist, elbow, and shoulder. Do not use your full forceto begin the nail. (Figure 77)

STEP 5 - Driving the Nail - Once the nail has been tapped into place move yourfree hand away from the nail and into a safe position which will allow you to holdor support the material. Once yourfree hand has been moved strike thenail squarely to avoid damaging thewood and bending the nail. Be sure tokeep the face of the hammer clean toavoid slipping off of the nail head whileyou are hammering. Drive the nail tothe appropriate level. (Figure 78)

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STEP 1 - Grasp the Hammer - Grasp thehammer handle firmly near the end of the han-dle, but just opposite from the grasp used fordriving nails. Your hand should not hand off ofthe end of the hammer. (Figure 79)

STEP 2 - Position the Hammer - Slip theclaw of the hammer under the nail head andapply pressure by pulling on the hammer han-dle. (Figure 80)

STEP 3 - Remove the Nail - Continue apply-ing pressure by pulling back on the handle untilthe handle is nearly vertical. When pulling onthe handle use a steady force and avoid jerkingon the handle. (Figure 81)

STEP 4 - Dispose of the Nails Properly -When removing nails it is important to disposeof the used nails properly to avoid injury anddamage to equipment by stepping on or drivingover nails.

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On the Job ActivityObjective 9:—————— Use a Hand Saw.

Equipment and Supplies:For this On theJob Activity you need the following equipmentand supplies:

� Safety equipment� Crosscut hand saw� Rip hand saw� Pencil� 2 Sawhorses� 1 - 2 x 4 (approximately 4' long)� 1 - 1 x 6 (approximately 4' long)� Speed square� Tape measure� Wedge

Introduction: Even though there are many different power saws that are used to cutlumber it is still necessary use a hand saw at times. Hand saws are used to crosscut orrip lumber. When you crosscut lumber you cut across the grain of the wood. When yourip lumber you cut with the grain of the wood. There are different saws for crosscuttingand ripping. It is important to use the proper saw for the job in order to obtain the proper cut. For this On the Job Activity you will learn how to use a hand saw to crosscut and rip lumber.

STEP-BY-STEP

Crosscutting

STEP 1 - Safety Equipment - The first step of any job is to securely fasten,attach, or put on the required safety equipment. The use of a hand saw requires ahardhat and eye protection (goggles, safety-glasses, face shield). Once you havecorrectly put on your safety equipment you are ready to begin using a handsaw.

STEP 2 - Position your material - Space your sawhorses so that each end ofyour material is supported by each sawhorse. Your material should extend pastthe sawhorse enough to allow you to cut the material without cutting into the sawhorse.

STEP 3 - Mark your cut - Using a speed square, draw a straight line across oneend of one 2 x 4.

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nectSTEP 4 - Ready your cut - If available you can

use clamps to hold your material to the saw-horses. If clamps are not available you can useyour knee to help hold the lumber in place.Firmly grasp the crosscut hand saw in onehand. Place one knee on the 2 x 4 board to holdit in place and align the saw blade with yourmark. Align your blade on the waste side of themark so that the lumber to be used will be thecorrect length. The waste side is the side that isbeing cut away from the piece of lumber youneed. You can steady your saw blade with thethumb on your free hand before you begin yourcut. (Figure 82)

STEP 5 - Begin your cut - Position the saw atabout a 45° angle between the sawhorse andthe 2 x 4 and start your cut by pulling the sawbackward and then pushing it forward. (Figure 83)

STEP 6 - Complete your cut - Once youbegin your cut, move your free hand away fromthe blade and use it to help secure the materialyou are cutting. Hold the blade of the sawsquare to the material and continue your cutuntil the lumber has been cut.

Rip cut

STEP 1 - Position your material - Space your sawhorses so that each end ofyour material is supported by each sawhorse. Your material should extend pastthe sawhorse enough to allow you to cut the material without cutting into thesawhorse.

STEP 2 - Mark your cut - Using a straight-edge mark a line lengthwise on the 1 x 6about 1" from one side.

STEP 3 - Ready your cut - If available youcan use clamps to hold your material to thesawhorses. If clamps are not available youcan use your knee to help hold the lumber inplace. Firmly grasp the crosscut hand saw inone hand. Place one knee on the 1 x 6 boardto hold it in place and your blade on the wasteside of the mark, steadying the saw with yourthumb and keeping the blade at a 90° angle.(Figure 84)

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FIGURE 82

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STEP 4 - Begin your cut - Pull the saw backward, then move it forward whilekeeping the saw at a 60° angle with the 1 x 6.

STEP 5 - Continue your cut - Onceyou begin your cut, move your freehand away from the blade and use it tohelp secure the material you are cutting. Hold the blade of the saw at a60° angle while cutting. Place a wedgein the saw kerf as you saw to keep thesawpath from binding the saw blade.The kerf is the groove or cut producedin material by the saw blade. (Figure 85)

STEP 6 - Continue your cut - If thesaw begins to wander from the line,twist the handle slightly and draw itback to the line. If the saw is notsquare to the lumber, bend it slightlyand gradually straighten it, but be verycareful not to kink the blade. (Figure 86)

STEP 7 - Continue your cut - Aftercutting several inches in the end of theboard, remove the saw and slide theboard back and reinsert the blade intothe saw kerf and continue cutting.Continue your cut until complete.(Figure 87)

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FIGURE 85

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On the Job ActivityObjective 10:—————— Use a Level.

Introduction: Levels are verydelicate instruments and must behandled carefully to ensure accuracy. Levels should bechecked for accuracy periodicallyand before use, especially if theinstrument has been dropped orjarred.

Equipment and Supplies: For this On the Job Activity you need the following equipment and supplies:

� Four foot spirit level� Folding rule or steel tape� Pencil� Straightedge� Vertical and horizontal work surface� Level surface

STEP-BY-STEP

How to Level a Surface

A. Check Level for Accuracy

STEP 1 - Safety Equipment - The first step of any job is to securely fasten,attach, or put on the required safety equipment. The use of a level requires ahardhat and eye protection (goggles, safety-glasses, face shield). Once you havecorrectly put on your safety equipment you are ready to begin using a level.

STEP 2 - Set base of level on flat, horizontal surface.

STEP 3 - Check bubble position in horizontal.●

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STEP 4 - Adjust surface or locationof level until bubble is centered;mark position on surface.

NOTE: On a level surface, the bubble will lie evenly positionedbetween the lines on the vial.(Figure 88)

STEP 5 - Rotate the level end forend and position it on the exactlocation; be sure to use the bottombubble. (Figure 89)

STEP 6 - Check the bubble position in the horizontal vial. The bubble will be centered from this side also if the level is accurate. If the level is not accurate besure to replace or repair as necessary.

B. Level a Surface

STEP 1 - Visually check surface for irregularities and foreign matter such as dirtand clean or replace surface as necessary.

STEP 2 - Set base of level carefullyand squarely on surface and checkthe bubble position.

NOTE: The bubble will be displacedtoward the high end of the level.(Figure 90)

STEP 3 - Adjust surface as necessary.

STEP 4 - Take additional readings to level surface as required.

NOTE: Many factors, such as the type of surface and the material being used,affect the number of readings that are required.

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C. Check Level for Accuracy (Figure 91)

STEP 1 - Place the base of the level against a flat, vertical surface.

STEP 2 - Check bubble position in upper horizontal vial.

STEP 3 - Adjust surface or location of level until bubbleis centered; mark position on surface.

STEP 4 - Rotate the level, end for end, and position it onthe exact location of the bubble centered reading.

STEP 5 - Check bubble position in the upper horizontalvial. The bubbles will be centered at this end also if levelis accurate.

D. Plumb a Surface

STEP 1 - Visually check surface for irregularities and for-eign matter such as dirt and clean or replace surface asnecessary.

STEP 2 - Place base of level carefully and squarely against surface.

STEP 3 - Check bubble position in upper vial. The bubble will move toward oneend of the vial if the surface is not plumb. To plumb the surface, you just adjust itin the direction of bubble displacement. (Figure 92)

STEP 4 - Adjust the surface as necessary.

STEP 5 - Take additional readings to plumb as required.●

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FIGURE 91

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Objective 11:—————— Select Guidelines for PowerTool Safety.

Power tools are powered by a source outside of the user. Electricity, air(pneumatic), and gasoline are commonsources of power. Examples of powertools are electric drills and pliers.

When working with power tools youshould always seek to follow these guide-lines:

Always follow OSHA rules and regulations.

Keep tools clean and in good working condition.

Use GFCI equipped circuits or otherassured grounding system to powerAC powered tools. The GFCI circuitmust be placed at the source of ACpower.

Follow manufacturer’s maintenanceprocedures.

Protect cutting edges.

Keep all tools accessories, such asblades and bits, sharp.

Report any unusual noises, sounds,or vibrations to your instructor orsupervisor.

Inspect tools and accessories regularly. Ensure all safetydevices/shields are in place.

Keep tools in their proper placewhen not in use.

Use the proper blade for the jobbeing done.

Do not attempt to operate any powertool before being checked out by theinstructor on that particular tool. Useof some tools require operator certification.

Always wear eye protection andappropriate safety equipment whenoperating all power tools.

Wear face protection when neces-sary.

Wear proper respirator when necessary to protect yourself fromexposure to hazardous materials.

Wear appropriate clothing for the jobbeing done.

Lift heavy objects and tools properly.

Do not distract a coworker who isusing a power tool.

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Identify Common CarpentryPower Tools and SelectTheir Uses.

Just as there are many different hand tools that a carpenter will use on the job, thereare also many different power tools available. The tools below represent some of themost common power tools and a carpenter should be familiar with each tool. Powertools can be more dangerous to operate than hand tools and a carpenter shouldalways use them with caution and following safety guidelines.

Table saw – used to cut lumber using the following cutting methods: ripping, crosscutting, mitering, rabbeting, dadoing (Figure 93)

Radial arm saw – used to cut lumber using the same cutting methods as a table saw, but is mostly used for crosscutting (Figure 94)

Jointer – used to straighten, plane, bevel, chamfer, taper, and rabbet lumber (Figure 95)

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FIGURE 93

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Planer– used to straighten andplane lumber (Figure 96)

Shaper – used to shape edges andmolding, make grooves, fluting, andreeding (Figure 97)

Band saw – used to make irregular cuts,circle cuts, and relief cuts (Figure 98)

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nectBench grinder – used to sharpen tools,

grind and shape metal, smoothing burrs and rough places from metal (Figure 99)

Angle grinder – used for rough sanding, grinding metal, grinding concrete, polishing and buffing, andremoving rust (Figure 100)

Belt sander– used for rough sanding, smooth sanding, and grinding glass (Figure 101)

Reciprocating saw– used to makeirregular cuts, crosscutting, relief cutting, pocket cutting (Figure 102)

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Drill press– used for applications such asdrilling, boring, shaping, tapping, and sanding (Figure 103)

Power miter saw– used for cuttingmiters and crosscutting (Figure 104)

Circular saw – used for ripping,crosscutting, and mitering lumber

(Figure 105)

Router – used for shaping edges, rabbeting, beveling, dovetailing, mortising,etc. (Figure 106)

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cutting holes with hole saws, mixingmaterials (Figure 107)

Screwgun – used for driving andremoving wood screws, machinescrews, thread-cutting screws, and lagbolts (Figure 108)

Hammer drill – used to drill holes inmasonry and concrete, wood, and othermaterials and perform light chippingwork (Figure 109)

Pneumatic nailers and staplers –used to apply sheathing, decking, roofing, install framing, install finishwork, etc. (Figure 110)

Powder-actuated fastener– used toattach building materials to steel andconcrete by driving pins into the materials (Figure 111)

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On the Job ActivityObjective 13:—————— Use a Drill.

Introduction: Using a portable drill is avery common activity in carpentry.Learning how to drill properly will helppromote a safe and efficient worksite.

Equipment and Supplies: For this Onthe Job Activity you need the followingequipment and supplies:

� Four foot spirit level� Folding rule or steel tape� Pencil� Straightedge� Vertical and horizontal work surface� Level surface

STEP-BY-STEP

STEP 1 - Safety Equipment - The first step of any job is to securely fasten,attach, or put on the required safety equipment. The use of a drill requires a hardhat and eye protection (goggles, safety-glasses, face shield). Once you havecorrectly put on your safety equipment you are ready to begin using a drill.

STEP 2 - Check to see that the power to the drill is off. Some drills are equippedwith a locking trigger and you need to check to make sure the drill trigger is notlocked in place.

STEP 3 - Install the correct drill bit into the chuck of the drill and tighten with thechuck key or with the hand tightening chuck ring depending on the type of drillbeing used.

STEP 4 - Lay out the hole on the stock to be drilled.

STEP 5 - Place a scrap block of wood on the table. This block of wood preventsthe stock from splintering when the drill goes through the work and will also prevent damage to the drill bit by not letting it contact the table.

STEP 6 - Plug the power cord into an outlet.

STEP 7 - Use a clamp to secure the stock firmly to the table.●

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STEP 8 - Position the drill so itwill center on the layout mark.

STEP 9 - With the drill at a 90°angle to the stock, slowlysqueeze the drill trigger.

STEP 10 - Continue drilling intothe stock until the hole is completed. When making deepcuts it is good practice to backthe drill out of the work now andthen to clear the wood chips fromthe drill.

STEP 11 - Back the drill out ofthe whole as you release the drilltrigger.

STEP 12 - Inspect the stock andremove it from the clamps,unplug the drill, and clean thework area.

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On the Job ActivityObjective 14:—————— Use a Pneumatic Fastener.

Introduction: A pneumatic fastener cangreatly increase the speed of a constructionproject, but it can also be very dangerous ifnot properly used. Safe use of this piece ofequipment greatly increases the effectivenessof the carpenter.

Equipment and Supplies: For this On theJob Activity you need the following equipment and supplies:

� Electric air compressor with air hose� Fasteners designed for the pneumatic fastener to be used� Pneumatic fastener with manufacturer's instructions� Safety equipment� 2 - 2" x 4" x 4' boards

STEP-BY-STEP

STEP 1 - Safety Equipment - The first step of any job is to securely fasten,attach, or put on the required safety equipment. The use of a pneumatic fastenerrequires a hardhat and eye protection (goggles, safety-glasses, face shield).Once you have correctly put on your safety equipment you are ready to beginusing a pneumatic fastener.

STEP 2 - Check to see that all safety devicesare in place.

STEP 3 - Plug the air compressor into apower outlet.

STEP 4 - Start the air compressor and adjustthe regulator to the pressure specified by themanufacturer for the material being fastened.

STEP 5 - Load the fastener with fastenersbefore it is connected to the compressor.

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STEP 6 - Connect the fastener tothe air hose while being sure thefastener is pointed down and awayfrom anyone, including yourself.

STEP 7 - Check with your instructorto make sure you have connectedthe fastener correctly and forapproval to continue.

STEP 8 - Position the two pieces ofstock to be fastened together.

STEP 9 - Position the fastener firmly on the stock and pull the trigger.

STEP 10 - Continue discharging fasteners until the job is complete toyour instructor's satisfaction.

STEP 11 - Disconnect the air hoseform the fastener and turn off the aircompressor and disconnect it fromthe power outlet.

STEP 12 - Have your instructor evaluate your work.

STEP 13 - Put away your equipment and clean the work area.

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Documents

Unit 7 Materials and Tools CARPENTRY - CareerTech … 7 • Materials and Tools CARPENTRY tech connect Carpenters work with many different types of materials and use many different