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Oman DHOFAR Wadi Dawkah The Frankincense Park near Salalah

Posted on November 20, 2011 by kuwaitquilter

On our drive back to Muscat from Dhofar at the end of the Eid Al Adha holiday, we stopped in at the

Frankincense Park. It is one of four UNESCO sites in Oman.

When we first pulled up, we didnt think that it was much at all. In a valley or wadi there were

rows of small frankincense

trees.

Several sets of stairs descended into the wadi and there was a small building that housed the

lavatories. Letting the dog out of the car to get some exercise, we went down to take a look.

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A young man in workmans coveralls approached us we werent sure if he would ask us to get the

dog out of there or what. We were pleasantly surprised. He is a Pakistani Christian who welcomed

our company. It turns out that he tends the whole area all alone, planting new trees, both by

cuttings and seeds, and keeping them watered. He hasnt been in the country very long, I think, as

he wasnt very fluent in Arabic counting out the numbers to get the right one. but between

English and Arabic, we learned quite a lot.

An eight year old tree is about 4 feet tall.

That means that the few Ive seen here in Muscat must be quite old as they are probably 15 feet tall

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with thick trunks. There were a few flowers showing on some of the trees, and also dead, black

seeds that smell of incense when crushed. The new leaves grow right at the tip of the old wood.

Come with me, Tariq said, and led us through the trees toward a tall chain link fence. Inside the

locked gate, there were taller

trees.

These, he said, are the old ones. He took us to one of the bigger ones, and showed us where the

bark had been scraped away,

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leaving a cut about the size of your palm where the sap of the tree was oozing out. He said that

every two days, he had to go around and collect the beads of frankincense. There are 4000 trees

altogether, young and

old.

Im not sure just how many of them they are harvesting from right now. The beads of sap were very

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white the best frankincense of all.

Back on top, we walked down to the signs.

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Here, you can see the same trees in the background that are in the picture of the wadi on the sign.

For more information about frankincense and its history, here is a really good site.

http://www.mei.edu/SQCC/EducationalResources/TheHistoryofFrankincense.aspx

Wadi Dawkah is a lage area of frankincense trees, which forms a central part of the Land of

Frankincense UNESCO World Heritage Site. More than 5000 frankincense trees have been planted in

the reserve, which covers and area of more than five square kilometres.

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The Frankincense Route in the Governorate of Dhofar, which was listed by UNESCO in 2000. The

Route comprises the ancient cities of Al-Blaid and Shasr, Khuwr Rori, and Wadi Dooka. These

locations collectively contributed to the flourishing of the frankincense trade for many centuries

throughout the Middle Ages.

At the beginning of April, as soon as the temperatures start to rise, the frankincense gatherers cut

the frankincense trees in many places. The first 'cut' is called the tawqii and consists of paring off the

outer bark of the branches and trunk. This causes a milky-white liquid to ooze from the tree whichquickly solidifies and is left in this condition for 14 days or so. The second 'cut' which follows this

period, produces resin of an inferior quality and the real harvest begins two weeks after the second

'cut'. With this third 'cut' the tree produces frankincense resin of yellowish color which is sold

commercially in the market.

The 'cutting' of the frankincense trees calls for great skill. The harvest lasts for 3 months and the

average yield of frankincense resin for one tree is around 10 kilos. The Governorate of Dhofar

produces approx. 7,000 tones of frankincense annually

Omani frankincense, which is considered to be the finest quality in the world, is still much in demand

in many countries. It is an important ingredient in the manufacture of incense which is burned on

social occasions, in the manufacture of medicines, fragrant, powders, perfumes, candles as well as inhalls of worship around the world.

Eric Lafforgue

www.ericlafforgue.com

The Arabian Peninsula is typically associated with arid desert landscapes, and while much of Oman

falls into this category, the southern region of Dhofar is a stark contrast. Each year as the rest of the

countrys temperatures soar during summer, the khareef brings monsoonal rains to Dhofar landscape.

A carpet of lush green vegetation results, and both livestock and travellers flock to enjoy the

markedly cooler temperatures.

Salalah

Dhofars capital, the beautiful city of Salalah, is known as the southern capital of Oman. Facing south

over the Arabian Sea, it boasts pristine white beaches to accompany its enviable climate. Its vibrant

culture reflects its historical association with Zanzibar, a one-time colony of Oman. Beautiful hotels,

colourful souks, and a stunning natural backdrop make Salalah one of the countrys favourite cities for

travellers.

Mirbat

Nearby Mirbat is a picturesque seaside town, complete with its own majestic castle, a captivating

souk, and the ruins of an old town dating back many hundreds of years. Visitors will also enjoy the

opportunity to see local fishermen bringing in the days catch down by the waters edge, and are then

able to purchase the freshly caught seafood at the souk shortly afterwards.

Taqah

Taqah is another Dhofari town with a rich history, having been a major shipping port for both

frankincense and myrhh. Both of these fragrances are harvested from locally grown species of trees

and at one point were worth more than their weight in gold. This led to a prosperous local economy,

with the towns impressive Taqah Castle museum revealing tales of its glorious past in a collection of

fascinating exhibits. Taqah is a favourite destination for Omanis as it represents the birthplace of their

beloved sultan, HM Sultan Qaboos.

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Sumhuram

East of Taqah, visitors will discover the remains of the ancient port of Sumhuram. Located at Khawr

Rawri, Sumhuram is one of four sites on the UNECSO Land of the Frankincense Trade World

Heritage List. Here, an impressive collection of ruins is still the focus for archaeological teams who

seek to unearth more about this once thriving city. Sumhuram has commanding views over the

waters of Khawr Rawri (sometimes spelled 'Khor Rori') and across to the ocean, a key consideration

in the town's planning which allowed for the monitoring of shipping and also ensured its safety frommarauders.

Al Balid

Another UNESCO-listed site is Al Balid Archaeological Park, with ruins dating back well into pre-Islamic

times. Like Sumhuram, it was also a trading port for frankincense; however, it was also a major port

for the shipping of Arabian horses. References to Al Balid and its splendour date back millenia,

including notable mentions by Marco Polo around 2000 years ago.

Shisr

The next site on the UNESCO World Heritage List is at Shisr: The Lost City of Ubar. This remarkable

treasure was only discovered in 1992 with the aid of a NASA satellite, having been buried under theshifting desert sands for centuries. It is thought to be the famed Atlantis of the Sands proposed by

Lawrence of Arabia, a major hub on the caravan route between trading cities of the region. The town

was reported to be a paradise, a place of unparalleled opulence that thrived as a centre for trading

local fragrances with exotic goods from the East. However, its ruin came suddenly when the

limestone cave over which it was built collapsed, with the desert sands quickly shifting in to cover the

remainder of the towns buildings above. As a result, it disappeared off the map - quite literally - for

over a thousand years. Speculation remains as to whether or not the excavated ruins behind Shisr are

indeed the famed Ubar of history, although the place is undisputedly of great historical significance.

Artefacts dating back several thousand years have been uncovered by archaeologists who continue to

take a keen interest in the site.

Wadi Dawkah

The last site of UNESCO World Heritage Listing is Wadi Dawkah, a protected stretch of over one

thousand frankincense trees situated about 40km north of Salalah. The precious sap from these trees

-and others across the Oman landscape - brought the country great wealth throughout history, and

increased its connections with other nations as the fragrance was traded as far away as Europe and

China.

Salalah Museum

Perhaps the best place to trace Omans prosperous path through history is the Museum of the Land of

the Frankincense Trade. Located in Salalah, this fascinating museum hosts a range of interactive

exhibits which take visitors on a journey through more than 10 000 years of human history. A vastnumber of ancient artefacts are on display, from the excavated columns of buildings built two

thousand years ago to pieces of stone tooling used by fishermen two thousands years before that.

This museum is perhaps the most complete and comprehensive in Oman - a must-see for any visitor

to Salalah.

Wadi Darbat

Only thirty minutes drive from Salalah, Wadi Darbat is one of the natural treasures of Oman, an oasis

of wildlife and lush green vegetation at the base of the Dhofar Mountains chain. Travellers will marvel

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at the vibrant contrast to the vast regions of desert to the north; during the height of the khareef,

waterfalls cascade over the wadis rocky slopes and into the river below. Camels, cattle, and other

livestock graze the abundant grasses on the banks, while birds nest in the wetland areas. Families

from all around the region come to share in the magic of the annual summer rains, creating a festival

atmosphere. During the khareef, Wadi Darbat showcases the richness and colour of both the Dhofar

landscape and the Omani culture. It will undoubtedly rank as one of the highlights of any Oman

holiday.Wadi Shuwaymiya

Above Salalah, on the northern side of the Dhofar mountains, travellers descend into Wadi

Shuwaymiya. Here, they are greeted with richly coloured rock formations which curve and flow in

remarkable patterns. Every so often, the wadi floor is punctuated with the vibrant green of acacias

and the occasional palm tree, while limestone stalactites hang from cliff faces in the background. The

majesty of Wadi Shuwaymiya has an other-wordly quality about it, its landscape distinct from the

many other wadis to be found across Oman.

Al Mughsayl

Lastly, Al Mughsayl is located about an hours drive west from Salalah. On a strikingly beautiful

section of the Omani coast, the seawater pounds against the cliff faces and rushes up through a small

opening to create an impressive blowhole. Of even greater attraction is the breathtaking vista looking

west towards Ras Sajir, where the beautiful charcoal mountains terminate in precipitous white faces

which plunge into the turquoise sea.

A visit to Dhofar will provide many of the highlights of an Oman holiday with its offer of stunning

scenery, incredible history, and various unique elements of Omani culture.

Dhofar

Wadi Dawkah: Land of the Frankincense

Wadi Dawkah is a natural park in Dhofar Region bearing copious growth offrankincense trees

(Boswellia Sacra). It is listed in UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2000. Wadi Dawkah is a protected

stretch of over one thousand frankincense trees situated about 40 kilometer north ofSalalah.

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The landscape of Wadi Dawkah, Dhofar Region, Oman

The precious sap from these trees brought Oman great wealth throughout history and increased its

connections with other nations as the fragrance was traded as far away as Europe and China.

Wadi Dawkah stretches over the wadi (dry riverbed) approximately 4kilometer from northwest to

southeast. Additional frankincense trees are being planted in Wadi Dawkah, in an effort to increase

the tree population.

Boswellia sacra tree from which frankincense resin is obtained

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The trunk of Boswellia sacra tree

The usual time of harvest starts in April as soon as the temperatures start to soar. The frankincense

gatherer makes several incisions in the trunk of a tree. The first slash is to strip the outer bark of the

branches and trunk. This causes a milky white fluid to ooze from the tree which quickly solidifies. It is

left in this condition for 14 days or more. The second slash after the stripping period, produces a

resin of inferior quality but the real harvest starts two weeks after the second slash. The third incision

is the penultimate; it is at this instance when the tree produces frankincense resin of yellowish color

which is sold commercially in the market.

Frankincense resin dripping from the tree

Harvesting the precious resin lasts for 3 months. The average yield of frankincense resin for one tree

is around 10 kilos. The Governorate of Dhofar produces approximately 7,000 tones of frankincense

annually.

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The frankincense from Oman is considered to be the finest quality which garners high demand in

many countries. Frankincense is an important ingredient in the manufacture of incense which is

burned on social occasions like nuptials and venerations; it is similarly used in the manufacture of

medicines, fragrant, powders, perfumes, and candles.

The aromatic frankincense resins

- See more at: http://whitedogleader.blogspot.com/2011/11/wadi-dawkah-land-of-

frankincense.html#sthash.jw32tm8g.dpuf

Fahud Oil Field - A Humble Beginning

The Sultanate of Oman's dramatic economic development over the past 40 years was brought about

by the revenues from oil, gas and petroleum products.

Oil was first discovered in the interior near Fahud (where I am presently based), in the western

desert in 1964. Petroleum Development Oman (PDO) began production in August 1967. The Omani

Government owns 60% of PDO, and foreign interests own 40%; Royal Dutch Shell owns 34%; 4% is

owned by Compagnie Francaise des Petroles, known today as Total and Partex owns 2% interest.

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A typical pumpjack used to produce the remaining recoverable oil afternatural pressure is no longer sufficient to raise oil to the surface.

Oman's growth into a successful oil- and gas-producing nation had humble beginnings. In fact, it was

so humble that it originated from a miserable failure. A geological survey of the country in 1925 found

no conclusive evidence of oil. Twelve years later, however, when geologists began intensively

searching for oil in neighboring Saudi Arabia, Oman's Sultan Said bin Taimur granted a 75-year

concession to the Iraq Petroleum Company (IPC).

Lacking and with very limited infrastructure to assist survival in Oman's hostile desert environment,

the early exploration confronted hard times. Problems were compounded by political unrest. Vital

route to the interior from Muscat was often made impassable by the hostilities between warring

tribes. As a consequence, the logistics of supply were problematic.

Western Desert of Oman

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Table Cliff Near Fahud 1

A Water Pit

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Flaking Salt Flat

Fahud Anticline

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A Typical Desert Floor Scene

When IPC finally decided to drill its first well in Fahud in early 1956, supplies had to be transported

from Duqm in the south of the country, across more than 300 kilometers of some of Oman's most

deserted and inhospitable terrain. The hardships endured were a total waste because the well was

dry.

Fahud is PDO's oldest and largest field in northern Oman. The Fahud structure was first recognized

from the air in 1948 but was only explored on the ground in 1954. Geologist started Stratigraphy

investigation work and field mapping the area.

Natural Gas Well

With large oil discoveries in neighboring countries naturally the hopes for success in Fahud-1 were

high. One can imagine the disappointment of all parties involved when the well tested a bit of gas

and saw only a few traces of oil. At the time the geologists realized that although they had drilled

near the crest of the surface anticline, they had probably drilled close to a possible fault and

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suggested to move the rig a few hundred meters and restart the well. If they had done so they would

have discovered the big Fahud oil field. Fahud oil field is a big tilted fault block at Natih levels, just

offset to the northeast from the surface anticline, and missed by some 200 meters by the Fahud-1

well.

Fahud-1 SE (left) - NE (right) schematic cross-section illustrating the unlucky near-miss

Because of continuing disappointments in the exploration quest for oil most IPC partners in PDO

withdrew from the venture. Shell, a member of the group, formed another consortium with

Compagnie Francaise des Petroles and Partex and continued the exploration.

The first oil well, Fahud-1, was spudded on January 18, 1956 but abandoned 18 months later with

only minor oil shows. IPCs prime target was the Jurassic Arab zone. But because Fahud-1 was dry,

neighboring anticlines were avoided. From 19571960, three further unsuccessful deep explorationwells were drilled at Ghaba, Haima, and Afar.

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Fahud 1 Oil Well Memorial

In 1963 the Fahud-2 oil well, 1.5 km from the Fahud-1, hit a pay zone. The field is roughly 17

kilometers long by 2.5 kilometers wide, with an estimated 6 billion-plus barrel of oil, making it the

largest field in Oman. Fahud 2 is producing from the Natih fractured carbonates.

Fahud 2 Oil Well Memorial

Later on in 1964 oil was discovered at Fahud on the other side of a fault line from the location where

IPC had sunk Fahud-1.

Following the discovery of the prolific Fahud and Natih fields, facilities and a pipeline were built and

oil exports began in 1967. To date, there are more than 400 wells drilled in Fahud field.

Gas Flare at Fahud

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A Drilling Rig Site in Fahud

A Drilling Rig Site in Fahud

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A Typical Rig Camp in Fahud

An Oil Rig Preparing to Move

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An Oil Rig on the Move

The new and modern Fahud Airport which begun operation in 2009

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Permanent Accommodation for Contractors

How to get there: Fahud is about 335 kilometer from Muscat, mostly over concrete-paved roads.

From Muscat take the national highway to Nizwa and subsequently the main road south to Salalah. At

33 kilometers after turning onto the Salalah road turn, take the junction right at Izz signposted to

PDO's main oil fields, PDO Concession Area, Natih, Fahud andYibal. Please be aware upon

entering PDO Concession Area, the speed limit for light vehicle is 100 km/hr only and similarly; be

aware of heavy oilfield traffic or rig moves. While en-route you will be impressed by the whaleback of

Jebel Salakh dominating the southern horizon. The tarmac road will take you to the Natih roundabout

some 92 kilometer further. Follow the left route to Fahud, which is somewhere 24 kilometers. The

memorial of Fahud 1 Oil Well can be reached by taking the graded road to the left (southwest and

southwards) before reaching Fahud Camp while the memorial for Fahud 2 Oil Well can be foundvery close to Station Bravo.

- See more at: http://whitedogleader.blogspot.com/2011/11/fahud-oil-field-humble-

beginning.html#sthash.5UetotRe.dpuf