Water Well Cable Head (670264) Termination Manual

970205_D

Water Well Cable Head (670264) Termination Manual

Aries Corporate Office: 550 Elizabeth Street, Waukesha, WI 53186

800-234-7205 / 262-896-7205 / Fax: 262-896-7099

Western Regional Office: 5748 East Shields Avenue, Suite 101, Fresno, CA 93727

800-671-0383 / 559-291-0383 / Fax: 559-291-0463

Southeast Regional Office: 561 Thornton Road, Suite D, Lithia Springs, GA 30122

800-327-4346 / 770-941-1144 / Fax: 770-941-1141

Canadian Regional Office: 95 Whitmore Road, Unit 1, Vaughan, Ontario L4L 6E2

877-730-7010 / 905-265-2279 / Fax: 905-265-2299

Aries Web Site: www.ariesindustries.com

http://www.ariesindustries.com/

970205_D www.ariesindustries.com Page 2

This document contains proprietary and

confidential information of Aries Industries, Inc.

Copyright Aries Industries, Inc.

All rights reserved.

Disclaimer

The information contained in this document has been carefully checked and is believed to be entirely

reliable and consistent with the products described. However, no responsibility is assumed for

inaccuracies, nor does Aries Industries, Inc. assume any liability arising out of the application and use of

the equipment described. Aries Industries, Inc. reserves the right to make changes to any product and

product documentation in an effort to improve performance, reliability, or design.

Warranty

Aries products are thoroughly inspected before shipment. In the event of any malfunction, contact the

nearest Aries office.

Aries will replace or repair defective manufactured parts, F.O.B. factory, for one year from the date of

shipment. See Aries full warranty statement for complete details.

Notice

No part of this document should be reprinted or reproduced without the prior written permission of

Aries Industries, Inc.

If you have any problems or questions regarding this document, please contact one of the Aries offices

listed on the front cover.


CABLEHEAD REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS

Please make sure all power to the system is

completely disconnected and the system is turned off

at the control unit prior to starting repair/install of

cablehead. Remove the power/video line between the

control unit and the cable winch for extra security

from the power source.


Cablehead Connector Spare Parts Kit

KIT, SPARE PARTS, SS CABLE HEAD 950004

ITEM DESCRIPTION QTY ARIES P/N

1 SCREW, 6-32X3/16 PAN SL BRS 1 100376

2 O-RING, #211 BUNA-N 70 DURO 2 130086

3 CONN, PUSH ON UHF THREADED MOD 1 670044

4 CONN. 1P M BULKHEAD 1/4-28 THRD 1 770015

5 LUG, SOLDER #6 LOCKING 1 808413

6 TUBING, SHRINK 1/8 IN ADHESIVE BLACK 1 FT. 808809

7 TUBING, SHRINK 1/4 IN ADHESIVE BLACK 1 FT. 808814

8 CONN, 1P F PIGTAIL 1 809055


Cablehead Assembly Drawings


Cablehead Assembly Drawings (cont’d)


The following tools and equipment are recommended to assemble / repair an Aries Water Well system cablehead.

1. Heat gun 2. Rotary Cut-Off /DREMEL™ Tool 3. Solder – 60/40 rosin core recommended 4. Soldering Iron 45 Watts 5. Utility Knife 6. Wire Strippers 7. Wire Cutters, large 8. Electrical Tape 9. Screwdriver 10. Needle nose pliers 11. Adhesive heat shrink tubing 1/8 inch (P/N 808809) 12. Adhesive heat shrink tubing 1/4 inch (P/N 808814) 13. 1/4 inch pin punch (not shown) 14. Hammer (not shown) 15. Large Crescent Wrenches – 2 (not shown) 16. Vise (not shown) 17. Safety Glasses (not shown)


Cablehead Assembly and Repair Procedures

Secure the cablehead in a vise. Notice the flat spots on the "stinger". Hold the top portion of the cablehead with one wrench. The other wrench turns in a counter-clockwise motion. The "stinger" section is a left-hand thread. The cablehead threads on and off as a turnbuckle. Continue to disassemble the cablehead, and disconnect the internal connections: the watertight connector and the ground lug. Once the cablehead stinger section is disconnected from the remainder of the cablehead, try pushing the cable through the center of the stinger. It may be necessary to cut the cable using a grinder with a cut-off wheel. Remember to use proper eyewear for this process. Cut the cable as close as possible to the rear of the stinger. There are two methods of removing the brass

cone from the center of the stinger.

One, use a 1/4-inch pin punch and a hammer

and push it through, or try cutting the wires and

pulling them through from the other end. Once the

wires are cleared, thread a 5/16-18 bolt to the

center and try pulling the brass cone out (this

procedure is not shown).

Turn CCW


After removing/cutting the cable, insert the cable through the end of the stinger.

Measure back at least 12 inches and wrap some black electrical tape around the cable. Insert the brass cone on to the cable so it rests on top of the tape. This will act as a retainer for the next steps.

The armored cable has 24 outer strands. Separate one strand from the end of the cable and bend downward to the top of the brass cone. Bend the strand and feed it into the closest hole on the brass cone. Notice there are 12 holes on the cone; therefore put 2 strands in each hole. Be careful not to overlap the strands. They should lie side by side evenly. Bend the fed-through strands upward and cut flush.


When finished the assembly should look similar to the above picture. Notice there are no strands overlapping. This will help retain the cable evenly inside the cablehead.

Remove the black electrical tape from behind the brass cone. Push that assembly part-

way into the "stinger" section.


Next, remove the inner armor strands. Carefully SCORE the inner armor. Do not cut completely through or cut into the copper shielding.

Begin unraveling the individual strands until you reach the scored section. The strands will break off when flexed, leaving the inner vinyl jacket exposed.


Using your utility knife, cut the inner vinyl

jacket. Be careful not to cut the copper

shielding underneath.

Once the vinyl jacket is cut, separate the center conductor and copper shielding. Discard the protective copper wrap and vinyl jacket.


Twist the copper shielding and cover with 1/8 inch shrink tubing. Shrink to fit. The tubing will help

protect the copper shielding from unraveling.

Insert the brass washer over the wires. Note the direction of the beveled edge (towards the stinger). Cut the center conductor approximately 2-3 inches from the inside edge.


The above photos show how to "tin" your copper shielding and center conductor wires. This is helpful when you don't have someone to help hold the wires. First wrap the solder around the wire. Apply your soldering iron to "flow" the solder onto the wire.


Picture 1 Picture 2

Picture 3 Picture 4

(Pic 1) Solder the grounding lug to the copper shielding. Also at this time, strip the center conductor wire (at least 1/4 inch). (Pic 2) “Tin” the wire using the previously described method. (Pic 3) The waterproof cable connector, “joy plug”, may be a little more difficult to solder. Some all-purpose soldering flux may be necessary to help the solder flow (Pic 4).


Perhaps the most important part of the cablehead is ensuring a watertight seal. In order to do this, use shrink tubing with an adhesive lining.

Cut a piece of 1/4-inch shrink tubing 2 inches in length. Cut a piece of the 1/8-inch shrink tubing at least 1 inch in length. Place both pieces onto the "joy plug" watertight connector. Overlap the wires, and solder.


Heat shrink the 1/8-inch tubing over the soldered connection. The adhesive should ooze out to the sides of the shrink tubing.

Repeat the same procedure for the larger, longer piece of shrink tubing. This piece should cover the overall solder connection and shrink tubing. Again, the adhesive should ooze out to the sides of the shrink tubing.

If not done so already, push the rest

of the brass cone assembly/strain

relief into the "stinger" section.

NOTE: If the connector section of the cablehead needs to be rebuilt, refer to pages 18-22. If not, skip to page 23.


Cablehead Connector Components

The Connector section of the cablehead consists of these items:

1. Bulkhead Connector, metal

2. Shrink tubing, 1/8 inch, adhesive

3. Push-on connector, female .062

4. Connector, Stainless Steel

5. Wire, #18 (~6"), preferably Teflon

6. O-Rings, #211

7. Connector, UHF – Modified


Connector Repair Procedures The cablehead connector uses two O-rings to create a watertight seal to the camera. Always make sure the O-rings are not nicked, cut, squared, or that there is any corrosion present under or near the sealing surfaces. A silicon lubricant may be used to help insert the cablehead to the camera. The push-on connector is crimped to the wire. You may add a dab of solder to the crimp. Use the adhesive shrink tubing to cover the entire connector. There should not be any excessive bulges or metal showing. These may short out internally.

Cut the wire to 4-3/4 inches in length. Strip the end of the wire approximately 1/2 inch and flow some solder onto it.


Push the crimp connector on to the bulkhead connector.

Thread the bulkhead connector and wire on to the stainless steel connector body. Tighten by hand, then use a wrench and snug the connector down.

At the other end, thread the modified UHF connector in place.

The wire should extend beyond the center pin.


Flow some solder at a 45° angle to the center conductor wire and pin and trim off the excess.

The cablehead connector is complete.

The following section explains how to test for continuity.


Continuity Testing Procedure

The easiest way to check for a short circuit or an open circuit is to use a good digital multi-meter. The picture above shows the meter set on OHMS reading. The cablehead connector should be an open circuit. The center pin is the "HOT" pin or D.C./High Voltage pin. The reading from center pin to ground is always open. Notice the meter does not read any resistance. Remember not to touch the meter probes with your fingers. The human body does have resistance and can cause faulty readings.

To check for continuity, place the meter leads from the center pin to the bulkhead gold contact pin. The resistance is less than 1 Ohm (00.6). NOTE: If there were an open circuit, there would not be any resistance reading.


Connect the center conductor watertight connector to the bulkhead.

Screw on the ground connector also.

The finished assembly should look like the above photo.


Take the cablehead back to the vise to finish the assembly. Remember, the “stinger” section is a reverse thread. Catch a thread from the stinger to the body section and insert the excess length of wiring.

Give the “connector” section three turns counterclockwise. Catch the next thread and begin turning the “body” section counterclockwise, at the same time hold the connector section by hand.


When you can no longer tighten the cablehead by hand, turn the connector section flush with the body and use wrenches to tighten everything in place. There should be no more than a 1/16-inch gap between the stinger and the body.

The cablehead is finished.


Testing and troubleshooting.

This step will require a DC voltage meter and a basic understanding of its use.

Please feel free to contact Aries Industries Customer Service department for help at 1-800-234-7205. Please note for this test you will be working with High DC Voltage – being shocked by high voltage can cause injury or possibly even death.

After completing your cablehead install, you can test the end result.

Test #1 would be to make sure there is no continuity between the outer jacket and ground in the center pin. (This test should only be done with the power off and the video/power cable between the winch and control unit disconnected.) Set your meter to continuity. Place one probe on the center pin and one to the housing of the cablehead. There should be NO continuity between the two.

Test #2 will be completed with the system completely functional and the controller system turned on just as if you are turning on the camera. By turning your voltage meter to DC volts and placing one black (ground) probe on the outer portion of the cablehead and one red probe on the center pin, your meter should read within 5 to 10 volts of your Control Unit operating voltage. Depending on your system, Test #2 can also be completed by turning on the Power Supply and checking the current draw. The current draw on an open-ended system with no camera attached should be close to zero. If there is a large current draw, you may have a direct short within your cablehead. If you have no voltage at the cablehead, check for voltage at the slip-ring. If voltage is present, you may have an open within the cable or cablehead (not allowing power to pass through). Please contact Aries Industries for further instructions on completing a test of your cable.


RETURNING EQUIPMENT AND PARTS:

Please DO NOT return any equipment until you contact Aries for an RMA (Return Material Authorization) #. Call the nearest Aries Customer Service Department listed on the front cover to obtain your RMA # and information on packaging and shipping the equipment to Aries. Note: Equipment needs to be cleaned before returning to Aries. Prior to returning the equipment, a P.O. # and RMA # will be required.

ORDERING EQUIPMENT AND PARTS:

When calling, please provide the following information

for faster, more accurate part order processing:

1. Name, Company/Municipality, Telephone Number, Fax Number

2. Product/Item, Description, Part Number, Quantity

3. Contact Name at Aries Industries, Inc. (if applicable)

4. Bill to and Ship to Address

5. Preferred Method of Shipment and an alternate method of shipment

6. Purchase Order Number

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Water Well Cable Head (670264) Termination Manual