Meisterstück and Hugh Jackman

Crafted for New Heights

Ninety years ago, Montblanc created a writing instrument that became an icon far beyond writing culture: the Montblanc Meisterstück, a symbol for the everlasting quest of achievement. To celebrate 90 years of Meisterstück, the new Meisterstück 90 Years has red gold-plated fittings and a nib specially engraved with a commemorative “90”. Visit and shop at Montblanc.com

Boutique Montblanc

Via Montenapoleone 27/B - Cso Vercelli 1 - LaRinascente - Malpensa Airport

PIAZZA DELLA SCALA 5, MILANO

SHOP AT TRUSSARDI.COM

via Montenapoleone 16

Emma Cheevers

14

/globalblue/globalblue /globalblue@环球蓝联-GlobalBlue

@GlobalBlue /GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu

Editor’s Letter

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Welcome to Milan

Even if you’ve visited Milan before, you may be surprised to discover

Brera, a neighbourhood which houses many of the city’s art galleries and

interior design boutiques – fnd out more in our feature on page 76. In

this edition, we also take an in-depth look at the latest Italian clothing

designs, where art and fashion combine, and reveal a selection of Milan’s

leading restaurants (page 94).

SHOP is part of Global Blue, a Tax Free Shopping market leader,

and publishes guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia.

Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell

you everything you need to know about your chosen destination: the top

global brands, the local favourites you shouldn’t miss and the essential

stores, boutiques, restaurants and places to visit.

For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com. It’s even easier

to claim your tax savings with the Global Blue Card – signing up is

free and you can fnd all the details on the website. And don’t forget to

download the Global Blue mobile app!

With this edition of SHOP, the Global Blue app and your Global

Blue Card, you’re ready to enjoy the best that Milan has to ofer.

Athens and Thessaloniki

Austria

Austrian Alps

Barcelona

Belgium

Berlin

Buenos Aires

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Copenhagen

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Чехия

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Estonia

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Holland

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Prague

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Rimini and Riccione

Rome

Seoul

Singapore

Stockholm

Stuttgart

Switzerland

Tokyo

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Vilnius

16

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María Corte

María Corte created this

season’s cover illustration for

SHOP Milan. Her graphic

artwork has previously

been commissioned by

Apartamento, BBC Music

magazine and Artafacta

among others. Her artistic

sensibility and use of geometric

shapes makes her a perfect

illustrator for this cover.

Inspired by our feature about

the infuence of art on Italian

fashion, María’s illustration

uses geometric shapes and

layering to reveal models

within the composition.

Read more about our

cover illustrations at

globalblue.com/covers.

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globalblue.com

Hannah Lewis

Hannah Lewis, assistant

fashion and news editor

at SHOP, studied English

literature and language at the

University of Oxford before

going on to study for an MA

in journalism at the London

College of Fashion.

Harriet Quick

Esteemed fashion journalist

Harriet Quick has held

senior roles at the Guardian

newspaper and British Vogue.

She has contributed the cover

feature for this issue of SHOP,

looking at where art and

fashion meet in Milan.

Contributors

Beth Druce

For this edition of SHOP

Milan, Beth Druce has

explored the city to discover

its hidden delights for our

Magic of Milan feature. Beth

is a fashion writer who also

works as a consultant for a

variety of luxury companies.

Shop Floor

20

E DI TOR I A L

Editor-in-chief

Emma Cheevers

PU BL I SH I NG

PublisherJames Morris

Managing editor

Sally McIlhone

Cover illustrator

María Corte

Contributors

Beth Druce, Maria Kirchen-Hill,

Olivia Miles, Harriet Quick

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Caterina Mazzolai

Assistant production editor

Ruairidh Pritchard

Features editor

Stephen Doig

City guide and lifestyle editor

Verity Hogan

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Dominique Fenn

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Ximena Daneri

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Milkha Lala

Artworking intern

Hibba Sayeed

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Contents

22

Above: Agnona autumn/winter 2014/15

Products

28 Check Out

sHoP selects a standout piece from Milan

this season

30 My Favourites

uberta Zambeletti, owner of Milan’s Wait

and see boutique, reveals her top places

and products in the city

32 Products

Key looks for the season, from fashion and

footwear to jewellery and accessories

42 Street Style

our pick of Milan’s best dressed for

autumn/winter 2014/15

N e Ws

48 Shop Window

one store not to be missed in Milan

50 News

seasonal updates on shops, services and

new products

62 In Store …

… with claudio Antonioli in his boutique

on Via Pasquale Paoli

F e At u r e s

66 Cover Story: Creative Edge

Infuential art movements are informing

Milan’s latest fashion designs, Harriet

Quick reports

76 The Magic Of Milan

From hidden ateliers to traditional stores

and cafés, the city has much to discover,

as Beth druce fnds out

86 In Focus: The Aquazzura High Heel

Aquazzura is responsible for one of the

most recognisable shoes this decade. olivia

Miles talks to edgardo osorio, the man

behind the design

e x Pe r I e Nce

94 Table Talk

From classic Italian kitchens to

contemporary chinese dumplings, Milan’s

restaurants ofer a world of options for

adventurous gourmands. Verity Hogan

explores a selection of the city’s fnest

102 Stay In Style

sHoP’s guide to the world’s most

exclusive hotels

p.66

24

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The latest in luxury shopping and travel is updated every day at globalblue.com

Contents

Gu i de

108 Maps and guides to the key shopping areas

of Milan, plus SHOP’s unique view of the

city’s sights

e SSe n t i a l S

142 How To Shop Tax Free

the simple steps to saving money on

your shopping

t R a nSl at iOnS

144 Русский Перевод

154 美文翻译

162 日本語翻訳

SOu v e n i R

170 the essential item to bring home

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MILLA JOVOVICH

SHOP MARELLA.COM

MILANO

corso Vittorio Emanuele

corso XXII Marzo 4

MILANO | Piazza San Babila 3 | Tel. +39 02 76000366

10 Stores in the city

boggi.com | shop.boggi.com

28 | PRODUCTS

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 142

NORDIC FLAIR

An Emilio Pucci handbag is a highly sought-

after item, and this intricately beaded creation

is no exception. For Emilio Pucci’s latest

collection, designer Peter Dundas has injected

Nordic fair, taking inspiration from his

Norwegian heritage. Viewed through the lens of

Emilio Pucci’s traditional Italian glamour, the

bag features vibrant prints and is a celebration

of colour, pattern and texture. On a base of

classic black, eye-catching embellishments

including embroidery and iridescent beading

complete the intricate pattern and make this

bag perfect for a special occasion. hl

Emilio Pucci clutch, €1,056, Emilio Pucci,

Via Montenapoleone 14, 20121 Milan,

+39 02 7631 8356, emiliopucci.com

* for map go to page 126

Check Out

30 | PRODUCTS

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My Favourites: uBerta ZaMBeLetti

Based in Milan, Uberta Zambeletti is a fashion

designer, stylist, interior decorator and design

consultant. In 2010 she opened Wait and See, a

multibrand boutique flled with luxurious items which

are carefully selected to refect her refned, eclectic

aesthetic. Here Uberta talks to Ximena Daneri about

her favourite products and places in Milan.

waitandsee.it

1. ‘I love Missoni for its

timeless and luscious pieces’

Missoni,

Via Montenapoleone 8,

20121 Milan,

+39 02 7600 3555,

missoni.com

2. ‘My signature fragrance is

Philosykos by Diptyque’

Diptyque Philosykos eau de

parfum’

Diptyque Philosykos eau de

parfum, 100ml, €98,

La Rinascente, Piazza del Duomo,

20121 Milan, +39 02 3674 1359,

diptyqueparis.eu

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SHOP | 31

3. ‘Alberto Levi sources rare

and refned antique textiles

and carpets’

Allegra Hicks Pandora carpet,

from €6,200,

Alberto Levi Gallery,

Via San Maurilio 24,

20123 Milan,

+39 02 8901 1553,

albertolevi.com

4. ‘Anne Grand Clèment

produces beautiful handbags’

Anne Grand Clèment bag, €350,

Wait and See,

Via Santa Marta 14,

20123 Milan,

+39 02 7208 0195,

annegrandclement.com

5. ‘For the best contemporary

American furniture, visit this

recently opened store in the 5

Vie district’

BDDW,

Via Santa Marta 19A,

20123 Milan,

+39 02 2222 9467,

bddw.com

6. ‘This is in a beautiful

and charming setting, with

delicious all-Italian food’

The Small,

Via Niccolò Paganini 3/Piazza Argentina,

20124 Milan,

+39 02 2024 0943,

thesmall.it

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5

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32 | PRODUCTS

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 142

4. Marina Rinaldi trousers, €168,

Marina Rinaldi, Piazza del Liberty 2,

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II,

20122 Milan, +39 02 782065,

marinarinaldi.com

3. Swarovski Stardust bracelet, €79,

Swarovski, Corso Vercelli 3,

20144 Milan, +39 02 433040,

swarovski.com

1. Hugo Boss boots, €595, Hugo Boss,

Corso Giacomo Matteotti 11,

20121 Milan, +39 02 7639 4667,

hugoboss.com

2. Cos jacket, €135, Cos,

Corso Venezia 5, 20121 Milan,

+39 02 7628 0649, cosstores.com

monochrome

masterpiece

Mix up a classic neutral look with textures,

prints and fashion-forward shapes

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2

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34 | PRODUCTS

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4. Salvatore Ferragamo bag, €1,750,

Salvatore Ferragamo,

Via Montenapoleone 3, 20121 Milan,

+39 02 7600 0054,

ferragamo.com

3. Bally Bonyta boots, €1,295,

Bally, Via Montenapoleone 8,

20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 8406,

bally.com

1. Max Mara coat, €1,100, Max Mara,

Via Victor Hugo 1/Via Orefci,

20123 Milan, +39 02 8901 3509,

maxmara.com

2. Meissen necklace, €3,800,

Meissen, Via Montenapoleone 3,

20121 Milan, +39 02 8942 3725,

meissen.com

BRING OUT

THE BURGUNDY

This winter’s jewel colour is a juicy,

rich antidote to grey skies

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SHOP | 35

3. Victorinox Infantry watch, €360,

Grimoldi, Piazza del Duomo 21,

20121 Milan, +39 02 876092,

victorinox.com

4. A Testoni backpack, price on

request, A Testoni,

Via Montenapoleone 19, 20121 Milan,

+39 02 7600 3697, testoni.com

1. Canali cashmere sweater, €610,

Canali, Via Pietro Verri 1-3,

20121 Milan, +39 02 7639 0365,

canali.com

2. Montblanc Meisterstück iPhone 5

and 5s holder, €155, Montblanc,

Via Montenapoleone 27B, 20121 Milan,

+39 02 7631 7720, montblanc.com

5. Alberto Guardiani trainers, €525,

Alberto Guardiani, Corso Venezia 6,

20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 1697,

albertoguardiani.com

CHIC COMFORTS

Elevate of-duty style with superior

fabrics and a touch of sparkle

1

2 3 5

4

36 | PRODUCTS

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 142

1. Hermès Zebra Pegasus scarf,

€895, Hermès, Via Montenapoleone 12,

20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 3495,

hermes.com

2. Mango trousers, €34.99,

Mango, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II

24-28, 20122 Milan, +39 02 7601 4530,

mango.com

3. Pomellato Victoria ring, €10,270,

Pomellato, Via San Pietro all’Orto 17,

20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 6086,

pomellato.com

4. Casadei shoes, in red or black,

€650, Casadei, Via Sant’Andrea 1,

20121 Milan, +39 02 7631 8293,

casadei.com

5. Escada coat, €3,499,

Escada, Via Agnello 2, 20121 Milan,

+39 02 4798 8130, escada.com

1

WILD CHILD

Luxury leather and animal print provide

a playful take on winter dressing

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38 | PRODUCTS

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5. Bang & Olufsen Beolit 12 music

system (iPhone not included), €699,

Bang & Olufsen, Corso Magenta 30,

20123 Milan, +39 02 8909 6215,

beoplay.com

3. Cos document case, €45,

Cos, Corso Venezia 5, 20121 Milan,

+39 02 7628 0649, cosstores.com

4. Lacoste trainers, €99.90,

Lacoste, Via Dante 6, 20121 Milan,

+39 02 8050 9618, lacoste.com

1. Frends headphones, €219.95;

headphone caps, €49.95,

Excelsior, Galleria del Corso 4,

20122 Milan, +39 02 7630 7301,

wearefrends.com

2. Nixon watch, €280,

10 Corso Como, Corso Como 10,

20154 Milan, +39 02 2900 2674,

nixon.com

GADGET GUY

For the technologically

minded, these innovations

prove that state of the art

can also mean stylish

1

2 3

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5

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SHOP AT TRUSSARDI.COM

40 | PRODUCTS

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 142

5. Jimmy Choo bag, €995,

Jimmy Choo, Via Sant’Andrea 1A,

20121 Milan, +39 02 4548 1770,

jimmychoo.com

3. Marella Moresca jacket, €189,

Marella, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 2,

20122 Milan, +39 02 7601 2747,

marella.com

4. Dolce & Gabbana shoes, €1,795,

Dolce & Gabbana, Corso Venezia 7,

20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 4091,

dolcegabbana.com

1. Burberry pencil skirt, €1,195,

Burberry, Via Pietro Verri 7,

20121 Milan, +39 02 760 8201,

burberry.com

2. Louis Vuitton hat, price on

request, Louis Vuitton,

Via Montenapoleone 2, 20121 Milan,

+39 02 777 1711, louisvuitton.com

TAILORING

WITH A TWIST

Update a sleek, sharp

silhouette with whimsical

and tactile accessories

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42 | PRODUCTS

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Street

Style

At Milan Fashion

Week, tastemakers

paired full suits with

bomber jackets to

create a more edgy

look. Playful prints,

sharp contrasting

colours and whimsical

accessories, such as

Fendi’s furry bag,

added a fun element

to classic feminine

silhouettes.

globalblue.com

SHOP | 43

44 | PRODUCTS

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 142

Street

Style

Milan street style

stars let their

accessories do the

talking, and the

clutch bag style reigns

supreme this season,

whether it’s a metallic

design from Roger

Vivier, embellished by

Mawi, or a pop art-

inspired version by

Jimmy Choo.

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SHOP | 45

48 | NEWS

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 142

Shop Window

CENTRE OF EXCELLENCE

Milan’s newly opened Brian & Barry Building

San Babila brings together the best the city

has to ofer in terms of fashion, design, beauty

and jewellery in an innovative way. Occupying

an entire 1950s palazzo and spanning an

impressive 12 storeys, it houses single-label

boutiques as well as multibrand spaces devoted

to clothing, accessories, homeware and

technology. Don’t miss the beauty foor, which

has been created in collaboration with Sephora

and is the frst retail space of its kind in the

world. To add to the appeal, Brian & Barry

has teamed up with Eataly to provide a choice

of restaurants, cafés and gourmet food halls.

What’s more, the building is open seven days a

week from 10am to 10pm, so there’s no excuse

not to drop by and discover Brian & Barry’s

exciting new concept. irs

Brian & Barry Building San Babila,

Via Durini 28, 20122 Milan,

+39 02 7600 5582,

thebrianebarrybuilding.it

* for map go to page 120

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PIAZZA OBERDAN 2/A MILANO

50 | NEWS

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 142

AMERICAN DREAM

Inspired by a trip to Dallas as a teenager,

the feisty new collection from German designer

Philipp Plein is an homage to free-spirited

women and features many items made in

Italy. Crystal-encrusted boots, huge metal

belt buckles, studded leather leggings and

sumptuous furs, all in black, create a vision of

a rock ’n’ roll cowgirl, while fashes of bright red

tartan add a punk feel. Gold-studded leather

gloves, stilettos, boots and handbags can also

be found in this stunning new fagship store. gl

Philipp Plein,

Via della Spiga 25, 20121 Milan,

+39 02 7600 2098, philipp-plein.com

* for map go to page 128

TRUE GENT

Bringing a dash of the dapper British

gentleman to Milan, Hackett has opened

its frst Italian standalone store, combining

classic Milanese architecture with Hackett’s

confdent, modern style. Hackett’s casualwear

and childrenswear ranges can be found on

the ground foor and are surrounded by

artwork. Upstairs, visitors can browse the

accessories, Mayfair and formal collections.

The store also ofers an excellent bespoke

service inspired by its Savile Row heritage. irs

Hackett,

Via Manzoni 38, 20121 Milan,

+39 02 7601 5369, hackett.com

* for map go to page 130

SHOP | 51

globalblue.com

In brief:

— There is

good news for

those looking

for homeware,

as Vitra’s chic

Home Collection

is now available

at the Design

Supermarket

La Rinascente.

WOOLLEN WONDERS

From its creation in 1959

in a small factory in Italy,

Stefanel has been known

for its beautiful knitwear.

Founded by Carlo Stefanel

and now in the hands of his

son Giuseppe, the label has

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SHOP THE WORLD

Using our wealth of insider knowledge,

we have created a smartphone app to

help you to plan your trip. The app gives

information on 45 cities in 22 countries

– thousands of stores are listed and

located on maps, with full contact details

and a description of what each store

sells. Our maps guide you right to the

store and can also be downloaded for

offine use enabling you to create your

own itinerary. You can also sign up for

the Global Blue Card and, once you’re

logged in the My Tax Refund wallet

becomes available, allowing you to track

pending refunds. The app is available

in Chinese, English and Russian, and

includes a Tax Refund Calculator to

tell you how much you’ll save on every

purchase you make in every different

country you visit. There are also

instructions on how to use Currency

Choice, our service that allows you to

pay in your home currency.

globalblue.com

Download the Global Blue guide

from the App Store or Play Store

gained a sound reputation

for knitted pieces of the

highest quality. The new

women’s collection is modern

and stylish, using clean lines

and simple colourways to

great efect. Knitwear is

still at the heart of the label,

with everything from warm

winter coats to matching

separates realised in the

softest cashmere. mkh

Stefanel,

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II,

20121 Milan,

+39 02 805 1110,

stefanel.com

* for map go to page 114

52 | NEWS

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 142

WATCH THIS SPACE

Founded in 1875, trusted

watch brand Bulova has a

rich history of innovation.

Its original Accutron pieces

had unprecedented accuracy

and played an integral role

in numerous space missions

including the Apollo 11 moon

landing in 1969. Bulova

has now launched a range

inspired by the original

Accutron collection, featuring

cutting-edge technology and

modern design. A highlight

of the range is the Bulova

Accutron II Alpha, which

features a green anodised

aluminium dial ring and

super-luminescent tuning

fork encased in a sleek and

streamlined modern case with

a luxurious leather strap. hl

Gioielleria Fugazzi,

Via Torino 49,

20123 Milan,

+39 02 8645 3575,

bulova.com

* for map go to page 134

WINTER WEAR

The Italian label behind some of the best coats to ever grace a

catwalk, Max Mara once again meets expectations this season.

All styles, from trench coats to Pufa jackets, feature touches

of masculine tailoring, and the materials, such as herringbone

tweed and Prince of Wales tartan, are the stars of the show. The

boxy, oversized waistcoat can be balanced by a sleek leather

pencil skirt, while grey-on-grey layering enhances the diferent

weaves and knits which can be found throughout the brand’s

autumn/winter 2014/15 collection. hl

Max Mara,

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II,

20121 Milan,

+39 02 7600 8849,

maxmara.com

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TOP GEAR

As winter approaches, a warm, well-made

coat is a necessity. For men who don’t want

to compromise style for practicality, Paul &

Shark has the solution. Making use of two of

nature’s most comforting fabrics, cashmere

and sheepskin, the chocolate brown jacket from

the Luxury collection is a weekend wardrobe

essential. For a more fashion-forward look, this

edgy bomber jacket, crafted in soft leather and

wool, is an ideal choice. irs

Paul & Shark,

Via Montenapoleone 16,

20121 Milan,

+39 02 7600 8565,

paulshark.it

* for map go to page 126

RACING AHEAD

Founded more than a century ago, Italian

luxury leather label Trussardi 1911 is known

worldwide as one of the country’s leading

fashion houses. It started as a small family

company making luxury gloves and was soon

recognised for its excellent leather-working

techniques, going on to become an ofcial

supplier of gloves to the British royal family.

Today, Trussardi’s greyhound logo can be

found on a range of items, from evening bags to

casual footwear, and it also ofers ready-to-wear

lines for men and women. hl

Trussardi 1911,

Via Sant’Andrea 5, 20121 Milan,

+39 02 7602 0380,

trussardi.com

* for map go to page 124

Corso Buenos Aires

Corner ViAle TunisiA

inFo + 02 29532164

56 | NEWS

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ITALIAN STYLE

Known by Milan’s most

fashionable residents since the

1920s, when Stefano Serapian

set up a specialist leather

workshop, Serapian is admired

throughout the city. By the

1960s, Serapian’s exquisite

bags were being carried by

the likes of Audrey Hepburn

and today, Serapian is still a

family-run business which

continues to uphold its made-

in-Italy tradition. This season,

look out for pieces designed

with the brand’s signature

woven leather, which dates

back to 1947. irs

Serapian,

Via della Spiga 42,

20121 Milan,

+39 02 7602 4451,

serapian.com

* for map go to page 128

FEEL-GOOD FACTOR

Since launching in 1986

Italian brand Hogan has

continued to come up with

smart-casual footwear that

perfectly combines style and

comfort. Its latest design, the

H222, has a sporty rubber

sole for ease of wear, while

the stitching and perforation

patterns on the upper are

reminiscent of a traditional

brogue. These are ideal for

those who want to look chic

on the move. gl

Hogan,

Via Montenapoleone 23,

20121 Milan,

+39 02 7601 1174, hogan.com

* for map go to page 126

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A-LIST LINES

The Serpenti collection of bags and

accessories from the luxury Italian brand

Bulgari has reached a status that few lines

achieve and is a favourite among fashion editors

as well as with Hollywood actresses. The new

Serpenti Scales design features a linear frame

with a top handle and a modern, architectural

shape. Available in a range of colours, we are

particularly taken with this eye-catching cobalt

creation. Blue is one of the key colours of the

season, and this soft and smooth calf leather

handbag cannot fail to brighten any outft. hl

Bulgari,

Via Montenapoleone 2, 20121 Milan,

+39 02 777001,

bulgari.com

* for map go to page 126

INSIDE CAVALLI

Roberto Cavalli’s new store on Via

Montenapoleone – the brand’s largest – is

the culmination of a lifelong dream for the

famboyant designer. The interior is striking,

with fve storeys connected by a mother-of-

pearl staircase and a 15-metre-high video

wall on each foor. The store carries the

complete womenswear clothing and accessories

collections, including Roberto Cavalli, Just

Cavalli and Cavalli Class. On the second foor,

there’s an atelier where custom-made pieces

can be ordered, and another foor is dedicated

to homeware. For devotees of the eponymous

designer, this is the perfect opportunity to

immerse yourself in his world. df

Roberto Cavalli,

Via Montenapoleone 6,

20121 Milan,

+39 02 763 0771,

robertocavalli.com

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60 | NEWS

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MAKE IT A GOAL

As well as excelling in fashion and food,

Italians are also passionate about football, and

the newly opened Casa Milan pays tribute to

one of the country’s fnest teams, AC Milan.

Visit the Mondo Milan museum to admire

the club’s many trophies and enjoy interactive

exhibits. Directly accessible from the museum

is the store, which stocks the team’s ofcial

jerseys and merchandise and some exclusive

items. Find out what it’s like to eat like Mario

Balotelli at Casa Milan’s Cucina Milanello,

which has the same chef as AC Milan’s

training centre. irs

Casa Milan,

Via Aldo Rossi 8,

20149 Milan,

+39 02 62281,

casamilan.acmilan.com

BEST OF BRITISH

Burberry continues to put British style on

a global platform with the launch of a store in

Milan’s Malpensa Airport. The UK brand has

11 stores in Italy and the new shop, located in

Terminal 1, is the perfect pre-fight pit stop.

The boutique stocks the Burberry London

collection in addition to accessories, eyewear,

fragrances and watches. Whether you’re in

search of one of Burberry’s famous trench

coats or a small gift, all can be found here. irs

Burberry,

Malpensa Airport,

Terminal 1,

21010 Ferno,

+39 02 7486 8684,

burberry.com

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FIRST IN BLACK.THE ORIGINAL.

porsche designTimepieces

62 | NEWS

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‘My passion for fashion and clothes inspired me

to create Antonioli. I have a number of stores

throughout Italy which are multibrand boutiques

that aim to include a progressive selection of

international brands; they are always up to

date with what’s currently in the spotlight.

‘Ten years ago, I relocated the store and

expanded within the city. I’ve always loved

Naviglio and thought of it as an important and

historic place for Milan. When I was looking

for a new place for Antonioli, I fell in love with

this space; it was formerly the location of one of

Milan’s frst silent theatres, which closed in 1916.

‘The boutique has also expanded to

incorporate an old mechanic’s shop, which

was transformed into a glistening retail space.

For my stores, I’ve always collaborated with

important and talented architects, and this one

was created by Storage Associati. It’s important

to work together in order to create the best

creative synergies. In the Milan store, we have

taken cues from the history of the building and

made them work today. Even after a century,

some details survive, like an old cinema screen

and a black stone funnel.’

Antonioli,

Via Pasquale Paoli 1,

20143 Milan,

+39 02 3656 6494,

antonioli.eu

In Store: Antonioli

Claudio Antonioli opened his frst boutique in Milan in 1987 and it soon

became a stylistic reference point. A few years later, the store moved to

its current location at Via Pasquale Paoli 1. Visitors to the store will fnd

an expertly curated selection of menswear and womenswear and here,

Ximena Daneri speaks to the owner about his fagship store.

SHOP | 63

LAPERLA.COM

MILANOVIA MONTENAPOLEONE, 1

Infuential art movements are informing Milan’s latest fashion designs, Harriet Quick reports

Creative

Edge

68 | FEATURES

Memorable fashion shows for the autumn/winter season could also be described as artistic happenings

Last season, designers were fxated with the

botanical universe, using wild blooms and

petal-like layers along with sufcient plant

references to fll a natural history museum.

For autumn and winter, they have turned

their attention to the more enigmatic and

intellectually challenging realm of modern

art, specifcally to the Bauhaus and Fluxus

movements and the ephemeral world of

installation and performance art.

The fashion/art friendship is as old

as fashion itself and this latest courtship is

resulting in high-profle collaborations and

sponsorships of art fairs, such as Frieze

London and Fiac in Paris, which kicks

of the autumn season, as well as in more

subtle infuences on cut, construction

and presentations.

In the research for her latest menswear

and womenswear collections, Miuccia Prada

(who also oversees Prada’s art foundation)

delved into the radical work of the 1970s

Fluxus movement. Fluxus comprised

international artists with backgrounds in

art, flm and music, who valued spontaneity,

humour and guerrilla interventions over formal

exhibitions and emphasised that any material,

from newspapers to broken crockery, could be

the subject and matter of art.

In a tribute to Fluxus artist Joseph Beuys,

who frequently covered objects, rooms and

even himself in felt and leather, Prada’s show

space in Milan was cloaked in thick grey

Previous: Agnona autumn/winter 2014/15Above (both): Prada autumn/winter 2014/15

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industrial felt, which mufed the sound of the

models’ wedge heels as they emerged from the

catwalk, as if walking out of an underground

art movement’s secret gathering. An almost

anti-fashion style was evident: odd colour mixes

(brown, yellow and black), necklaces, ties and

fur trims brilliantly turned plain-speaking

clothes into conversation interrupters.

Other memorable fashion shows for the

autumn/winter season could also be described

as artistic happenings. A case in point was

Agnona’s presentation which was modelled

by Dree Hemingway, the brainy and beautiful

great granddaughter of Ernest Hemingway.

It took place in an Art Deco-inspired set that

was lined in leather, sheepskin and feathers,

and contained furry fowers and a feather

skirting board. Agnona’s creative director

Stefano Pilati projected the sensuality and

tactility of the luxury brand that is owned

by Italian powerhouse Ermenegildo Zegna.

Wearing a wave-pattern appliquéd cocoon

coat, leather evening gloves and wide-cut

trousers, Hemingway appeared to be an

extremely elegant art patron. Note that waves,

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Above (from lef): Agnona; Marni, both autumn/winter 2014/15

signifying ongoing change, was a favourite

metaphor for the Fluxus movement.

The interest and emphasis on fabric and

construction has led many designers to look

to the Bauhaus art school, which was founded

by architect Walter Gropius in 1919 as

a multidisciplinary arts and crafts institution.

Bauhaus’s striking, ornament-free architecture,

furniture and graphics have caught the

imagination of fashion designers. Consuelo

Castiglioni at Marni, and Pilati, have used bold

graphic colourways, innovative fabrication and

complex cutting techniques this season.

The interest and emphasis on fabric and construction has led many designers to look to the Bauhaus art school

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Above (both): Botega Veneta autumn/winter 2014/15

As the new season collections arrive in

store, the artful formula will be put to the test.

If you fnd yourself tempted by a cocooning

grey felted coat, or a double-face cashmere

panelled midi skirt, a colour-blocked sleeveless

jacket, a silk shirt dress or a pair constructivist

wedges, the art/fashion union has successfully

spread its word

prada.com, agnona.com,

bottegaveneta.com,

marni.com

At Bottega Veneta, Tomas Maier, a man

who is very learned and passionate about art

and photography, created a compelling

collection that he referred to as ‘a puzzle’.

Fit-and-fare coat dresses and shifts featured

appliquéd geometric panels that were also a

lesson in the craft of construction.

Eveningwear was intricately assembled from

metres of tulle and chifon fabric in gradated

ripples which, from afar, looked like delicate

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SHOP | 77

Lef: Antonio Marras concept store/147 156164

From hidden ateliers to traditional stores and cafés, there is much to discover in the city, as Beth Druce fnds out

In Luca Guadagnino’s flm I Am Love, the

action revolves around a prestigious Milanese

family living in Villa Necchi Campiglio, an

historic mansion hidden behind the hustle

and bustle of the Duomo. It’s easy when

visiting Milan to be distracted by the stunning

architecture and 50 favours of gelato, but look

beyond the obvious attractions and a diferent

city is revealed, ready to engage you.

While many European cities will welcome

you with an outstretched arm, Milan can

appear aloof but, as Robyn Lea, author of

‘Milan: Discovering Food, Fashion and Family

in a Private City’, says, ‘In the same way that

The Magic

of Milan

78 | FEATURES

Above (from top): Antonio Marras’s concept store; Robyn Lea, author of ‘Milan: Discovering Food, Fashion and Family in a Private City’

deeply private or reserved people can be hard

to read and often misunderstood, so is the city

of Milan.’

For Australian-born Lea, who moved to

Milan at the age of 18, the city’s ‘tastemakers’

slowly reeled her in; names like Carla Sozzani,

founder of 10 Corso Como, and the legendary

designer Barnaba Fornasetti. ‘Milan is like a big

creative machine, and when you live there, you

want to be a part of that energy and creative

force, or you won’t enjoy it,’ says Lea.

Consequently, Lea urges visitors to

immerse themselves in creative spaces, such

as Antonio Marras’s concept store, an old

factory where one could spend a day perusing

the eclectic pieces. Finding the studio of

metal sculptors Osanna and Madina Visconti

di Modrone illustrates just how tricky the

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with its intricate accessories and avant-garde

homeware, remains one of the city’s best-kept

secrets. The atelier ‘has no sign on the street

and is only accessed with permission from

the doorman, through the ancient internal

courtyard’ according to Lea.

This is where tour provider Antiques &

Boutiques can help. The company provides

tailor-made tours which focus on the design,

style, food and culture that captures the true

spirit of Milan. The company says that its tours

‘are curated and led by passionate and dynamic

locals who invite you to share the city that they

know and love’. One of the stops on the tour is

at the vintage shop Cavalli e Nastri in the Brera

zone, a neighbourhood which houses many of

Above (from top): Cavalli e Nastri; handmade bronze bowls by Osanna Visconti di Modrone

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Above (clockwise from top lef): Ex Mauri; the pool at Ceresio 7; Luini’s mezzaluna pizza; the interior of Luini

the city’s art galleries and which is dotted with

interior design boutiques.

Another way to penetrate Milan’s exterior

is via what Italians love the most, food, and

in many ways it’s the culture of eating that’s

signifcant rather than the food itself. Lea

advises visitors to the city to start each day

with cofee al bar at Taveggia, one of the oldest

patisseries in Milan.

Later in the day try Luini. Situated on Via

Santa Redegonda it’s been baking panzerotti

(stufed savoury pastries) and pizzas since

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For dinner, head to chef Elio Sirroni’s restaurant Ceresio 7 with its exceptional views and flavours

‘Today the kids who used to come to eat

panzerotti after school return with their own

children,’ the Luini family explains. Locals

also fock to Ex Mauri on Via Federico

Confalonieri, where Venetian dishes such as

calamari ripieni (stufed squid), pasta with

courgette fowers, and crusted salt cod are

light alternatives to rich and hearty Milanese

cuisine. For dinner, head to chef Elio Sirroni’s

restaurant Ceresio 7 with its exceptional views

and favours.

Finally, and in a completely diferent vein,

the Fortura Giocattoli toyshop on Via Olmetto

84 | FEATURES

is the oldest in Milan, founded in 1914. It is

the perfect example of somewhere that might

not exude obvious appeal, yet retains a loyal

following and represents the ‘real’ Milan.

‘The experiences most valuable take the

most efort. And when a person is prepared

to discover and uncover Milan and love the

city even when the feeling is not reciprocated,

eventually the barriers will be removed and the

city will open her heart,’ Lea concludes

antoniomarras.it, osannavisconti.it,

cavallienastri.com, antiquesandboutiques.com,

taveggia.it, luini.it, exmauri.com, ceresio7.com,

fortura.it

Above (from top): Ceresio 7 interior; a dish from Ceresio 7

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The Aquazzura HighHeel

SHOP | 87

Aquazzura is responsible for one of the most recognisable shoes this decade. Olivia Miles

talks to Edgardo Osorio, the man behind the design

Iconic shoe design will always defne the era in which it was conceived: consider the platforms of the 1960s, the classic 1980s stiletto heel and the ballet pumps of the ’90s. And now, Aquazzura’s Sexy Thing cut-out bootie encapsulates all that is great and good about fashion in the 2010s.

This variation of the closed-in ankle boot was created by Edgardo Osorio, the Colombian-born designer who founded Aquazzura in Florence in 2011; this was his frst design for his label. Following a decade working for Salvatore Ferragamo, Osorio had seen how Tuscany was home to the ‘best shoe craftsmen and best leathers in the world’ and decided that Italy was where he would launch his own label. His designs are available around the world, including in La Rinascente in Milan.

Inspired by the writer Truman Capote’s glamorous female friends of the 1960s, whom

In Focus:

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Above: sketch by Edgardo Osorio for the Aquazzura Sexy Thing design for autumn/winter 2013/14

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Above (from lef): Aquazzura creative director Edgardo Osorio; black wedge, spring/summer 2014

Today, the Sexy Thing bootie is worn by international style icons of different ages, from Cara Delevingne and Emma Watson to Solange Knowles and Natalia Vodianova

Capote called swans, Osorio sought to create

a shoe for the ‘swans of today’. ‘I’m a Latin

man and love to dance,’ he says. ‘I went to so

many weddings and remember seeing girls take

of their shoes before they started dancing. I

wanted to create a shoe a girl could dance the

night away in.’

Instantly recognisable due to its cut-out

style and thin 11cm heel, it’s the sensual, skin-

baring element of the design that gives it such

a distinctive feel. ‘The cut-out is what makes it

so sexy as it shows some skin, but the foot is still

very much covered,’ explains Osorio.

Following its launch in 2011, the shoe’s

popularity was spearheaded by the Italian

fashion editor Giovanna Battaglia who was

frequently photographed wearing the shoe in

a variety of shades and the design became an

instant hit among the fashion set. Battaglia’s

exuberant style is a perfect match for the Sexy

Thing, with its mix of sensual yet cutting-edge

design and fashes of bright colour. What’s

distinctive about the Sexy Thing beyond its

90 | FEATURES

design is the vibrant selection of colourways in

which it is available, in recognition of fashion’s

current focus on bold, saturated hues. Today,

the Sexy Thing bootie is worn by international

style icons of diferent ages, from Cara

Delevingne and Emma Watson to Solange

Knowles and Natalia Vodianova.

‘I like to think that my shoes are trans-

generational,’ says Osorio. ‘You can wear it

all year round and dress it up or down. I’ve

seen celebrities on the red carpet wear it with

evening gowns as well as girls on the beach

with denim shorts and a T-shirt. That’s why it’s

so modern: it’s very efortless and works with

almost any outft.’

The body of the shoe is made from an

unlined cashmere suede that naturally takes

on the shape of the foot. In fact, the Sexy

Thing bootie was the frst design to utilise

Aquazzura’s production technique, which

is now patented. According to the company,

this ‘second skin’ technology is unique to

Above (from top): crafing the Sexy Thing shoe; the yellow heel, spring/summer 2014

Aquazzura and makes the shoes incredibly soft

and comfortable, as if ‘you are wearing a glove

on a high heel’.

Comfort also comes from the sole of the

shoe, the result of time invested by artisans who

studied a myriad of techniques for construction

92 | FEATURES

Above: Roccia Elaphane heel, cruise collection 2014

and ft. ‘The man who creates my lasts came up

with a way of constructing the shoe so that the

weight of the body is more evenly distributed

around the ball of the foot, the arch and the

back, as opposed to having all the weight of

your body on the ball of your foot which makes

it uncomfortable,’ says Osorio. This element

of the Sexy Thing led to it being known as the

‘fashion week shoe’ and the ‘24-hour shoe’, as it

became popular with fashion editors during the

launch of international collections.

‘Sexy Thing is a seasonless and timeless

shoe. My aesthetic refects the beauty and

sophistication of a certain kind of Italian

style that is never over designed or overdone.

It’s about small, luxurious details that make

something great, like everything else in life,’

Osorio concludes

aquazzura.com

‘You can wear it all year round and dress it up or down’ Edgardo Osorio

globalblue.com

94 | EXPER IENCE

Milan’s gastronomy is often said to refect

the city’s character; its restaurants ofer

cosmopolitan menus flled with favoursome,

hearty dishes that are relatively easy to prepare

in this fast-paced environment. Diners looking

for culinary diversity will be spoilt for choice

as no other Italian city ofers such a high

concentration of international restaurants,

from Moroccan bars and Asian-fusion

canteens to Irish gastro-pubs.

The city’s restaurant scene is one of the

most heavily populated in the world; the city

boasts 400 bars and restaurants for every

100,000 inhabitants. As a result, the dining

landscape is flled with culinary contrasts,

and tradition and innovation often coexist.

Heritage dishes with strong identities have been

maintained and developed by the country’s

leading experimental chefs while international

favours have also been widely embraced.

With striking décors and menus that

combine exotic favours with an Italian

sensibility, Milan’s fnest restaurants are also

some of its most intriguing with an infux of

young chefs helping to create one of Europe’s

leading restaurant scenes.

TABLE TALKFrom classic Italian kitchens to

contemporary Chinese dumplings,

Milan’s restaurants ofer a world of

options for adventurous gourmands.

Verity Hogan explores a selection of

the city’s fnest

SHOP | 95

B E n T o S u S H I

R E S T A u R A n T

The cosmopolitan interior

of Bento Sushi Restaurant

refects the modern way its

menu embraces innovation

while remaining true to

Japanese tradition. The fnest

ingredients combined with

the chef’s creativity result in

dishes such as udon soup with

lotus fowers, slow-cooked

pork with mustard and pak

choi, and tataki salmon with

wasabi honey sauce. Dishes

are complemented by an

extensive wine list, ofering

over 100 vintages from

Italy and France, alongside

a selection of Japanese-

inspired cocktails.

Bento Sushi Restaurant,

Corso Garibaldi 104,

20121 Milan,

+39 02 659 8075,

bentosushi.it

96 | EXPER IENCE

globalblue.com

D i m S u m

Dim Sum ofers diners an authentic taste of

Chinese cuisine in central milan. The menu

features traditional dim sum, updated to

suit current tastes, using high-quality fresh

ingredients. its dining room is suitably refned,

with a sleek and modern design free from

Oriental kitsch while the open kitchen allows

diners to watch the chefs at work. The menu

is designed for sharing, featuring a range of

fresh favours and light dishes.

There is a variety of options available

on Dim Sum’s menu, from meat, fsh and

vegetable plates to soups and small cakes,

steamed or fried. Start your meal with a

serving of fried shrimp rolls before choosing

between main meal options that include beef

with ginger and leek, salt and pepper fried

squid, crispy duck and sautéed noodles – all

accompanied by a glass of chilled Perrier

Jouet Champagne.

Dim Sum,

Via Nino Bixio 29, 20129 milan,

+39 02 2952 2821, dim-sum.it

98 | EXPER IENCE

globalblue.com

L a r t e

taking a concept store approach to fne dining,

Larte not only showcases Italian cuisine but

also highlights the country’s art, design, culture

and fashion. the restaurant is complemented

by a café, chocolate shop, osteria and art

gallery, all sharing the same historic space -

the former residence of writer and poet Carlo

emilio Gadda. the recently opened restaurant

serves Mediterranean cuisine, centred on

deceptively simple recipes that incorporate

fresh fsh, vegetables and pasta. Chef Gennaro

Immobile is one of Milan’s new talents and is

known for making the most of his ingredients.

everything in the restaurant is for sale,

including all of the furniture and works of art;

designers Carlo Molino and Fortunato Depero

are just two of those featured in the space.

Larte,

Via Manzoni 5, 20121 Milan,

+39 02 8909 6950,

opening.lartemilano.com

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globalblue.com

M a M a i

Mamai specialises in homespun italian

cuisine, with every dish striking the perfect

balance between aesthetics and favour. as a

whole, the menu is creative and contemporary,

featuring dishes such as roasted octopus with

mashed sweet potato and orange, and crispy

sweetbreads glazed with veal stock, nuts and

creamy Stilton. The wine list ofers over 100

options to complement the range of dishes.

The restaurant’s name translates to ‘mother’

in Gaelic and the atmosphere is suitably

homely to refect its moniker. Enjoy the

restaurant’s relaxed ambience and service

levels which are never less than professionally

perfect. Be sure to try one of the restaurant’s

tasting menus; Water, Earth or Chef.

Mamai,

Via adige 9,

20135 Milan,

+39 02 8721 3909,

mamaimilano.it

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102 | EXPER IENCE

The world’s fnest hotels have locations in the most sought-after city districts, interiors that demonstrate meticulous attention to detail and amenities ranging from Michelin-starred restaurants to luxury spa facilities ofering state-of-the-art treatments. SHOP shares its pick of some of the very best

Stay in Style

GreAt FoSterS

Probably built as a royal hunting lodge in 1550, Great Fosters continues to ofer an experience ft for a king in its beautifully preserved Grade I-listed property. The house is set in 50 acres of gardens and parkland, featuring an outdoor heated swimming pool, tennis court, walled garden and lake. Inside, each of the hotel’s 43 rooms has a diferent décor, from the historic

grandeur of the Panel II and Italian suites to the more modern luxury of the Coach House rooms. Be sure to dine in the elegant Tudor Room, which serves an exquisite tasting menu in a unique setting.Great Fosters,Stoude Road, Egham, Surrey TW20 9UR, +44 (0)1784 433822,greatfosters.co.uk

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Arthotel BlAue GAnS

Located on Salzburg’s most prestigious street, minutes from Mozart’s birthplace, Blaue Gans’ modern minimalist interior provides a welcome contrast to its historic surroundings. The hotel prides itself on its art collection; more than 100 pieces of contemporary art can be found

displayed in the winding corridors and large, bright and airy rooms. Service is exemplary, attentive yet never stifing, while added extras including in-room massages add a touch of luxury to your stay.Arthotel Blaue Gans,Getreidegasse 41-43, 5020 Salzburg, +43 (0)662 842 4910, hotel-blaue-gans-salzburg.at

E X PE R I E NCE | 103

EXPER IENCE | 105

globalblue.com

Renaissance

BaRcelona Hotel

The Renaissance Barcelona Hotel is renowned

for ofering its guests an exceptional standard

of service, as well as sleek, contemporary

interior design. Each of its guestrooms features

luxurious bedding, individual climate-control

settings, high-speed Internet and modern

bathroom suites, while the ftness centre,

open 24 hours a day, is an added perk. Be

sure to dine at the hotel’s highly acclaimed

steakhouse; Cru serves only the fnest Black

Angus beef alongside a carefully selected

range of premium wines.

Renaissance Barcelona Hotel,

Pau Claris 122, 08009 Barcelona,

+34 93 272 3810,

marriott.com

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globalblue.com

South Place hotel

Ofering 80 Conran-designed rooms at the heart of the City of London, the South Place Hotel is one of the capital’s most stylish new openings. The hotel ofers an array of luxurious amenities, with a team of staf on hand to cater to your every need; enjoy a menu of gourmet seafood at Angler restaurant, try an original cocktail in one

of the three bars or relax in Le Chifre private lounge. Each room is also lavishly appointed and features a Bang & Olufsen television, St Clement’s bath products by James Heeley and cleverly designed ambient lighting.South Place Hotel, 3 South Place, London EC2M 2AF, +44 (0)20 3503 0000,southplacehotel.com

106 | E X PE R I E NCE

Guide

108 | GUIDE

Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Milan with a look

at the city’s must-visit destinations, from the most peaceful parks to the fnest

fashion boutiques. Start with SHOP’s recommendations before delving deeper

with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For more helpful hints

and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/milan.

A GLIMPSE OF MILAN

Set in the centre of Milan with streets radiating out from its position, the Duomo

is one of the city’s most magnifcent sights. Its Gothic façade, in dazzling white, is

decorated with an array of sculpted statues and spires, ranging from gargoyles on

guard to a likeness of the Madonna.

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Above: Duomo di Milano

HANNELI MUSTAPARTA

wearing the Colour Block Coat

MA X ANDCO.COM

110 | GUIDE

globalblue.com

SNAPSHOTS OF A CITY

‘Milan’s status as a centre of

commerce, fashion and culture

gives the city a cosmopolitan feel

and distinctive energy’ Verity

Hogan, SHOP’s city guide and

lifestyle editor

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Follow our team’s travels on

Instagram @globalblue. Tag

us in your city pictures when

sharing them and you might

see them in print!

112 | GUIDE

Milan

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Piazza Affari

CASTELLO SFORZESCO

PICCOLO

TEATRO

TEATRO ALLA SCALA

PINACOTECA DI BRERA

BASILICA

DI SAN MARCO

BIBLIOTECA AMBROSIANA

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LITTA

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Piazza

Cavour

MUSEO POLDI PEZZOLI

VILLA BELGIOIOSO &

GALLERIA D'ARTE MODERNA

MUSEO

BAGATTI

VALSECCHI

CHIESA DI

SAN BABILAPALAZZO

MARINO

DUOMO

PALAZZO REALE

VILLA NECCHI

CAMPIGLIO

CONSERVATORIO

GIUSEPPE VERDI

PALAZZO

MORANDO

TEATRO NUOVO

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DI STORIA

NATURALE

MUSEO DEL NOVECENTO

SAN BABILA

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114 | GUIDE

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Ristorante Cracco

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II Area

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II & Via San Pietro all’Orto

Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer Places Of Interest Metro

Restaurant

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● BORSALINO● CENTENARI● MEJANA● PIUMELLI● CHURCH’S● NOLI● BRIC’S● GUCCI● GIORGIO ARMANI

● LOUIS VUITTON

Del DuomoPiazza DUOMO

Piazza Scala

● OXUS

● VIGANÓ

● LIBRERIA BOCCA

● MASSIMO DUTTI

VERSACE ●

MERCEDES BENZ ●

ISTITUTO POLIGRAFICO ●

STEFANEL ●

NARA CAMICIE ●

CADÉ ●

COMUNE DI MILANOURBAN CENTRE ●

RIZZOLI ●

ANDREW'S TIES ●

LUISA SPAGNOLI ●LEO PIZZO ●

PRADA ●

TOD’S ●SWAROVSKI ●

● PRADA

While the city views afforded from the roof of the Duomo are

some of the finest in Milan, the best view of the Duomo itself is

reserved for those visiting the rooftop cafés of La Rinascente

department store. Seats on the terrace are set almost within

reach of the cathedral spires, while the cocktails available

are sure to impress. If the weather doesn’t allow for al fresco

dining then be sure to pay a visit to Obika Mozzarella bar, which

offers the same impressive views, albeit undercover, as well as

a menu of classic Italian cuisine, fine Mozzarella cheese and a

selection of local wines.

TOP TIP

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Piazza Meda

PiazzaSan Babila

SAN BABILA

DUOMO

CLARKS ●

MARIUCCIA ●

Ex

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FOOTBALL TEAM ●

SUPERDRY ●

La

Rin

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● BULGARI

Featured In This IssueDepartment Store

CORSO MATTEOTTI CORSO MATTEOTTI

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JIL SANDER ●

BOGLIOLI ●

MASCHIO ●

EYE STYLE ●

POMELLATO ●

VERSACE COLLECTION ●

VALLI ●

SAMSONITE ●

MAURO LEONE ●

CONTIGO ●

BOSE ●

FOR PETS ONLY ●

● ISAIA

● BAGUTTA

● ABERCROMBIE & FITCH

ZEPTER

● INTERNATIONAL

● BROOKS BROTHERS

● PRONOVIAS

● SANDRO FERRONE

● MARCO

● PAM

Piazza

San Carlo

Piazza

San Babila

SAN BABILA

Gobbi 1842

Historic family-owned jewellers Gobbi 1842 is known for

stocking jewellery and timepieces by some of the world’s

most prestigious international brands. The team of endlessly

accommodating staff is on hand to guide you through pieces

by brands such as Rolex and Patek Phillipe.

Gobbi 1842,

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 15,

20122 Milan,

+39 02 7602 0536

& Other Stories

& Other Stories’ distinctive collection is infused with effortless

Scandinavian cool.

& Other Stories, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 1, 20122 Milan,

+39 02 8909 6303,

stories.com

Marella

Max Mara’s diffusion line Marella echoes its parent label’s

elegant aesthetic with versatile, contemporary pieces with

universal appeal.

Marella, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 2, 20122 Milan,

+39 02 7601 2747,

marella.com

TOP STORES AROUND THE DUOMO

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GUIDE | 117

Boglioli

A family frm known for its commitment

to italian tailoring traditions, Boglioli

is one of the country’s fnest menswear

manufacturers. The company’s collections

exude masculine elegance while its exacting

approach to production ensures that

every item produced is unique. Wools and

cashmere are used to great efect throughout

the range, while Boglioli’s signature skills

can be found in its lightweight suiting and

meticulously neat cuts.

Boglioli,

Via San Pietro all’orto 17, 20121 Milan,

+39 02 7639 4051,

boglioli.it

* for map go to page 115

VAnnucci

Multibrand boutique Vannucci plays host

to a diverse clothing range that spans

the wardrobe spectrum from tailored

businesswear to ultra luxury sportswear.

The store caters for men and women

with a collection that includes prestigious

international labels as well as local italian

brands. Expect pieces by Kiton, Santoni,

Jacob cohen, Barba and Truzzi to be among

the range.

Vannucci,

galleria San Babila 4c, 20122 Milan,

+39 02 784938,

vannucci.it

* for map go to page 120

globalblue.com

12

120 | GUIDE

Piazza San Babila Area

Piazza San Babila, Corso Matteotti, Via Bigli, Corso Venezia & Corso Europa

Featured In This Issue

Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer Metro Bar

Piazza San Babila

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ORSO VITTORIO EMANUELE II

● SALMOIRAGHI VIGANÒ ● MORESCHI● BROSWAY● BOGGI● BALDININI TREND● BAGATT● DIESEL

● GUESS● EDDY MONETTI

● EDDY MONETTI● FLORSHEIM● MOMO DESIGN

● NESPRESSO● MAZZOLARI

● VANNUCCI

VODAFONE ●

BOGGI ●

TRU TRUSSARDI ●

STONE FLY ●

AVIREX ●

DEL MARE ●

● ADIDAS ORIGINALS

● JUVENTUS

● MARGHERITA

● DIMENSIONE DANZA

JH 1912 ●

BRIAN & BARRY ● BUILDING SAN BABILA

● GALLO

● LIBERO MILANO

● NATUZZI

● CASSINA

NORTH SAILS ●

BELLORA ●

BERETTA ●

MHWAY ●

BOGGI ●

● B&B ITALIA

● SILVIA

● NATURINO

● MHWAY

● S

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● NELLA LONGARI

● TATRAS

● D MAGAZINE

● ASPESI

LA CARAMELLA● D'ORO

ANTICHITÀ PIVA & C. ●

● HSL

● MILANO OFFICIAL STORE

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Piazza San Carlo

CAMPAGNA ● CULTI ●

MOSCA ●MARVILLE

●

PARAH ●RENCO ●

NANDO MUZI ●

AEROSOLES ●

VIVIENNE

WESTW

OOD ●

LIVIANI ●

LA CALZA ●OTTICA ●

MY STYLE BAGS ●

MADINA ●

LINDARICO ●

LUCIANO

PADOVAN ●

MALLONI ●DOLCE & GABBANA ●

DOLCE & GABBANA BARBIERE ●

FLAVIO CASTELLANI ●

NERO GIARDINI ●

NERO GIARDINI JUNIOR ●

HENRY COTTON’S ●

DOLCE & GABBANA ●COS ●GRIMOLDI ●

BAGATT ●PRADA ●

BRACCIALINI ●P ZERO ●ZARA

HOME ●

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E ●

PIU

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P.48

P.117

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Milano | p iazza san Babi la, 1/3 - Ph +39 02 76280529

122 | GUIDE

1. Wait and See

Every item stocked at the Wait and See lifestyle boutique

has been selected by its fashion-forward owner, designer

Uberta Zambeletti. Her signature style and varied cultural

interests are reflected in the eclectic collection, which includes

womenswear, jewellery, stationery and vintage pieces sourced

from all over the world.

Wait and See,

Via Santa Marta 14, 20123 Milan,

+39 02 7208 0195,

waitandsee.it

2. Tearose

The flowers are always in full bloom at Tearose; this vibrant

fashion boutique stocks the finest international designer labels

and a selection of couture items and displays them surrounded

by intricate floral arrangements. Expect to discover pieces by

Carven, Acne Jeans, Balmain, Alexander Wang and Roland

Mouret standing out against the floral backdrop.

Tearose, Via Manzoni 27, 20121 Milan,

+39 02 8699 8767, tearose.it

* for map go to page 130

3. Gio Moretti

Gio Moretti has become something of an institution among

Milan’s most fashion-conscious residents. The boutique has a

reputation for stocking the leading avant-garde international

labels within its luxurious glass and marble interior. Brands

represented in store include Chloé, Lanvin, Balmain and

Phillip Lim but be sure to visit the store’s dedicated Ermanno

Scervino floor, which contains the label’s full collection.

Gio Moretti, Via della Spiga 4, 20121 Milan,

+39 02 7600 3186,

giomoretti.com

* for map go to page 128

MILAN’S TOP CONCEPT STORES

globalblue.com

1.

1.

Co u t u r e & ACC e s s o i r e s · J oA i l l e r i e · H o m e & A rt Co l l e C t i o n s

Villa MEiSSEN COUTURE®, Via MONTENapOlEONE 3, MilaNO · www.MEiSSEN.iT · TEl: +39 02 89423725

124 | GUIDE

Montenapoleone Area

Via Sant’Andrea, Via Pietro Verri & Piazza Meda, Via Gesù, Via Borgospesso & Via Santo Spirito

Non-Global Blue Retailer Place Of InterestGlobal Blue Retailer Metro

VIA

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● HORA● SCHREIBER

● WALTER SHOES● INBORGOSPESSO 18

● GALLUCCI

● GALLERIA SILVA● TOP TIME MUSA

● BORGOSPESSO 6● SOLO BLU

MI.MI.SOL. ●

SILVANO LATTANZI ●

MARC CAIN ●

VERSACE HOME ●

YOUNG VERSACE ●

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● DANIELE ALESSANDRINI● ZADIG & VOLTAIRE

● PAROSH● VHERNIER

● CORTO MOLTEDO

BALENCIAGA ●MAURO GRIFONI ●

ANTIQUARIATO BENSI ●GIOIELLI DI SANTO SPIRITO 13 ●

GIORGIO JANEKE ●GIANVITO ROSSI ●

BALLIN ●CHANTECLER ●

WALTER PADOVANI● ANTIQUARIO

STELLAMCCARTNEY ●

P.54

Featured In This Issue

HACKETT.COM

126 | GUIDE

Via Montenapoleone

Fratelli rossetti

When searching for the perfect pair of shoes,

Fratelli rossetti’s Via Montenapoleone store

provides an ideal ft. the store showcases

the brand’s high-quality and expert

craftsmanship, ofering styles that are classic

with a contemporary edge. those looking

for something unique should take advantage

of the store’s tailoring service; visitors can

have a pair of shoes made to measure to their

exact requirements by one master craftsman.

Fratelli Rossetti,

Via Montenapoleone 1,

20121 Milan,

+39 02 7602 1650,

fratellirossetti.com

PiazzaCroceRossa

VIA MARINA

VIA

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128 | GUIDE

Spiga & Via Manzoni Area

Via della Spiga

VIA BIGLI

VIA

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SA

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Non-Global Blue RetailerGlobal Blue Retailer

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130 | GUIDE

Via Manzoni & Via Fatebenefratelli

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Non-Global Blue Retailer Place Of InterestGlobal Blue Retailer Metro

P.122

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Mil

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132 | GUIDE

Dante & Magenta Area

Corso Magenta

Gum Salon

Combining 1950s style with Hollywood

glamour, Gum Salon ofers men a luxurious

take on the barbershop experience. The

team spends time getting to know every

client, tailoring a style to suit using the

salon’s own range of organic hair products.

Styles are designed for modern men but

often have a retro, rockabilly edge. The salon

itself makes a strong style statement; black

tiles, painted brick and dressing room bulb

lighting give the space a unique character.

Gum Salon,

Via Vetere 10, 20123 milan,

+39 02 3660 1940, gumsalon.it

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Non-Global Blue Retailer Place Of InterestGlobal Blue Retailer

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Via Dante & Via Torino

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VIA GI UL

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VIA SAN TOMASO

VIA DEI BOSSI

VIA SANTA RADEGONDA

VIA

S.P

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LIC

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DANTE CORDUSIO

VIA

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FULC

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Piazza S.MariaBeltrade

VIA

AR

RIG

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VIA

SA

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TAS

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ZARA ●

OVS INDUSTRY ●

BERSHKA ●MM ●

BIBA ●BOTTEGA VERDE ●

SWEET WAY ●MAC ●

BOUTIQUE DEL GIOIELLO ●TRE ESSE SPORT ●

SALMOIRAGHI & VIGANÒ ●CIP GIOIELLI ●

PULL & BEAR ● OLTRE ●

KIEHL'S ●GUESS ●

TEZENIS ●TALLY WEIJL ●

DIXTIE ●

● LUIGI VERGA● INTIMISSIMI

● MARILENA● CALZEDONIA

● NARA CAMICIE● CAMPER

● GEOX● FOOT LOCKER

● ENERGIE / MISS SIXTY● MANGO

● MCS

● VERGELIO● CARPISA

● KIKO● KEY BE

● PIMKIE ● ACCESSORIZE

● YAMAMAY● MARCO

● OTTICA BARELLO

● GIOIELLERIA FUGAZZI● TRONY

GOLDEN POINT ●SOLARIS ●

LE COQ SPORTIF ●SWAROVSKI ●

AEROSOLES ●FOOT LOCKER ●

LO BY LOVABLE ●OVS ●

PIQUADRO ●

ALDO ●

GUESS ●

MAX & CO ●

ANGELICO ●

G STAR RAW ●

OTTICA VIGEVANO ●D’AUGUSTA GIOIELLI ●

CLASS ●CARLO PAZOLINI ●

IMAGINARIUM ●

LA CITTA' DEL SOLE ●

DEL MARE 1911 ● PERLIER ●

FOOTBALL CENTRE ●SALMOIRAGHI & VIGANÒ ●

DESIRÈE PROFUMERIA ●MAX MARA ●

● R

ON

CH

I

OYSHO ●

● DU PAREIL...AU MÊME ● JACADI

● NADINE● DANTE 16

● YAMAMAY ● GRISSPORT

● CELIO ● SEPHORA

● L’OCCITANE● PETIT BATEAU

● GUTTERIDGE● CAMICISSIMA

● UNO DE 50 ● LACOSTE

● BATA ● CHICCO

● GEOX ● KIEHL'S

● ELENA MIRÒ● CANETTA

● GUESS ● PAOLO CLERICI DAL 1780

● MUSTO ● MADINA

● IMPERIAL● KIKO

● STUDIO LA PERLA● CARPISA

● TRIUMPH● TIM

● WIND

● L'ERBOLARIO

● BATA

● ALDO CITTERIO ● 3 STORE

● GIOIELLERIA FEDELI ● PELLETTERIA RICCARDI

● VODAFONE● OROLOGERIA AL DUOMO

● SAVINELLI● LE SCARPE DI PAOLO

● BLU SAND

Non-Global Blue RetailerGlobal Blue Retailer

P.52

Featured In This IssueMetro

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Corso Buenos Aires Area

Corso Buenos AiresV

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VIA

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VIA MASCAGNI PIETRO

VIA LAMBRO

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ES

PORTA VENEZIA

CALVIN KLEIN JEANS ●

VERGELIO ●SISTE’S ●

GAMESTOP ●CAMPER ●

STRADIVARIUS ●

FBL●

FOSSIL●

IANA ●SOLARIS ●

KIKO ●

STEFANEL ●

DOUGLAS ●PERSONA ●ALTIERI ●

SALMOIRAGHI & VIGANÒ ●

● PIQUADRO● GUESS KIDS

● GUESS

● HILFIGER DENIM

● MERREL

● F.LLI SOLENNE GIOIELLI

● MILANO HOUSE OF CASHMERE

● LIU JO

● DIECIDECIMI

● FURLA

● CLARKSBRACCIALINI ●PANDORA ●

DESIGUAL ●STROILI ORO ●

SWAROVSKI ●

L’OCCITANE ●

● AERONAUTICA MILITARE

● SHADAO● ANTONY MORATO

Non-Global Blue RetailerGlobal Blue Retailer

1. Parco Sempione

One of Milan’s largest parks, Parco Sempione was designed

to make the most of its views of Castello Sforzesco and the

Arco della Pace. Visitors can admire both while also exploring

the collection of permanent sculptures by Francesco Barzaghi,

Giorgio de Chirico and Arman that line the parks many

winding pathways.

2. Giardini Pubblici Indro Montanelli

Established in 1784, the Giardini Pubblici Indro Montanelli is

the city’s oldest municipal park. The park follows French formal

styling with geometric flowerbeds and tree-lined corridors

while a statue of its namesake Indro Montanelli marks the ideal

spot for quiet contemplation.

3. Giardini di Villa Reale

The English-style garden surrounding the Villa Reale has

been designed with children in mind. The garden features lush

green lawns, cherry trees and a lake with waterfall as well as

an extensive children’s playground, fully equipped with swings

and slides.

MILAN’S MOST PEACEFUL PARKS

1

Metro

138 | GUIDE

Further aField…

Lake Como

located just an hour away from Milan,

lake Como is one of the region’s most

luxurious destinations. Snow-capped

mountains surround the lake while the

shoreline is dotted with picturesque

Mediterranean villas and enchanting

villages. the environment is inherently

romantic and its spectacular beauty has

inspired legions of poets, novelists and

composers over the centuries.

the region provides the perfect

escape from modern life and the area’s

loveliest villages, Bellagio, Varenna and

Menaggio, are located in Centro lago.

Bellagio is characterised by charming

earth-toned buildings and cobbled streets

that weave through cypress groves and

pretty gardens while visitors to the nearby

Villa Melzi will be rewarded with acres

of manicured lawns and ornate water

features. the majority of the attractions

of Varenna can be found on its outskirts;

be sure to climb up to the hilltop ruins of

Castello di Vezio which ofers panoramic

views across the lake.

how to get there

By Train

From Milan Centrale station, trains

to Como S giovanni station leave

approximately every hour. the journey

takes approximately one hour.

By Car

Follow signs to the a9 motorway,

connecting Milan to Switzerland, towards

Como-Chiasso. take the lago di Como

exit, the last before the Swiss border.

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globalblue.com

140 | GUIDE

Fidenza Village

Fidenza Village,

Via San Michele

Campagna,

43036 Fidenza,

+39 0524 33551,

fdenzavillage.com

Opening times

Monday-Sunday:

10am-8pm

PerFeCt Day

How to get tHere

By Car

exit the a1 motorway at

Fidenza/Salsomaggiore.

Pass the tollbooth and

Fidenza Village is 100

metres to your left.

By Train

From Milan:

Fidenza station is on the

direct line into Milano

Centrale with frequent

services and a journey

time of approximately

one hour 20 minutes.

Upon arrival, take the

shuttle bus to Fidenza

Village; tickets can be

purchased on board.

By Shuttle Bus

the Shopping express

luxury coach service

runs from central Milan

to Fidenza Village daily.

Shopping & Food

experience:

this exclusive package

includes:

• a guided tour of

Caseifcio Bertinelli

in the heart of

Parmigiano reggiano

• return tickets from

central Milan to

Fidenza Village by

Shopping express

• a VIP card providing

an additional 10%

saving across

the village

Don’t MISS …

Shopping & Art

experience:

this exclusive package

includes:

• entrance to the

galleria nazionale

di Parma with

its collection of

Italian renaissance

masterpieces

• return tickets from

central Milan to

Fidenza Village by

Shopping express

• a VIP card providing

an additional 10%

saving across the

village

10am

Start the day by perusing

the home accessories at

Calef, known for its

use of premium fabrics

such as Jacquard satin.

4pm

end your day admiring

the innovative collections

at Massimo Rebecchi.

this luxurious label is

known for combining

sleek Italian tailoring

with wearable comfort.

12pm

the footwear at Sutor

Mantellassi is sure to

impress. expect elegant

designs crafted by a

team of master cobblers

using traditional skills.

2pm

Stop for a break at

authentic Italian cofee

shop Ca’puccino. the

café ofers a comfortable

environment and a menu

that tours the diverse

regions and traditions of

Italian cuisine.

MILANO, Piazza Duomo 19 - contacts: +39 02 87 40 10 - info@cielo.it

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Translations

144

Русский ПеРевод

66: Creative Edge

искусство в моде

Хэриет Квик анализирует, как крупные течения в искусстве влияют на творчество миланских дизайнеров

В прошлом сезоне дизайнеры активно разрабатывали растительную тему, используя в коллекциях дикие цветы, лепестки и прочие ботанические мотивы. В сезоне осень/зима их внимание привлек более загадочный мир современного искусства, а особенно – арт-движения Баухаус и Флуксус, динамичные инсталляции и перформансы.

На протяжении всей своей истории мода стремится взаимодействовать с искусством. На современном этапе эти плодотворные отношения находят свое выражение в выдающихся совместных проектах и поддержке фестивалей современного искусства. В частности, этот осенний сезон открывается двумя заметными событиями в этой сфере – Frieze London и Fiac в Париже. Кроме того, искусство оказывается

существенное влияние на крой, силуэт, сложность конструкции одежды, а также на режиссуру модных показов.

Работая над новыми коллекциями для мужчин и женщин, Миучча Прада (она, кстати, курирует фонд поддержки искусства Prada) изучала архивы арт-движения 1970-х Флуксус. В нем участвовали радикально настроенные художники, кинематографисты и музыканты из разных стран, которые ценили спонтанность, юмор и партизанские интервенции в официальные формы искусства. Они считали, что любой материал, от газеты до сломанной посуды, может стать предметом и материалом искусства.

Вся сцена шоу-показа Prada в Милане была затянута в серый промышленный войлок: этот прием использовал художник Флуксуса Йозеф Бойс, покрывавший войлоком и кожей объекты, целые комнаты и даже себя самого. Модели появлялись из темноты, как бы выходя из секретного убежища андеграундного искусства, причем беззвучно, поскольку войлок приглушал звук их каблуков. В самой коллекции проявился практически анти-модный стиль: неожиданные цветовые сочетания (коричневый, желтый и черный),

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76: The Magic Of Milan

Магия Милана

Бет Дрюс рассказывает о необычных заведениях Милана, среди которых есть и известные только миланцам ателье, и старинные магазины и кафе

шейные ленты, галстуки и меховая отделка буквально приковала внимание зрителей.

Самые запоминающиеся модные показы сезона осень/зима недвусмысленно походили на художественные хэппенинги. Характерный пример – презентация коллекции Agnona, в которой приняла участие Дри Хемингуэй, талантливая и красивая правнучка писателя Эрнеста Хемингуэя. Для декораций к шоу был избран стиль ар-деко, отсюда – обилие кожи, овчины, перьев, меховых цветов и драпировки. А чувственностью и особым ощущением новую коллекцию бренда Agnona, принадлежащего модному дому Ermenegildo Zegna, наполнил его креативный директор Стефано Пилати. В пальто-коконе с неровными полосами, кожаных вечерних перчатках и широких брюках, Хемингуэй предстала в образе истинной покровительницы изысканного искусства. Примечательно, кстати, что подобные волны, как в аппликации на пальто, были излюбленной метафорой художников Флуксуса и обозначали наметившиеся перемены.

Особое внимание к тканям и конструированию различных форм привело многих дизайнеров к переосмыслению наследия движения Баухаус. Эта школа была основана архитектором Вальтером Гропиусом в 1919 году как междисциплинарный институт искусств и ремесел. Впечатляющая архитектура, мебель и графика, принципиально свободная от орнаментальности, захватывает воображение модных дизайнеров до сих пор. И Пилати, и Консуэло Кастильони из Marni в этом сезоне обратились к ярким графичным сочетаниям, инновационным тканям и сложным техникам кроя.

Томас Майер из Bottega Veneta страстно увлекается искусством и фотографией. Неотразимую коллекцию этого сезона он сам называет «паззлом»: облегающие платья с расширяющимся подолом и наряды-рубашки как бы собраны из отрезков ткани геометрических форм. Тем самым, они претендуют на эталонное мастерство кроя. А вечерние наряды с обильной тюлевой

и шифоновой драпировкой издалека смотрелись как изысканные графические рисунки с использованием градиента.

Томас Майер из Bottega Veneta страстно увлекается искусством и фотографией. Неотразимую коллекцию этого сезона он сам называет «паззлом»: облегающие платья с расширяющимся подолом и наряды-рубашки как бы собраны из отрезков ткани геометрических форм. Тем самым, они претендуют на эталонное мастерство кроя. А вечерние наряды с обильной тюлевой и шифоновой драпировкой издалека смотрелись как изысканные графические рисунки с использованием градиента.prada.com, agnona.com, bottegaveneta.com

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Сюжет фильма Луки Гуаданьино «Я – это любовь» вращается вокруг авторитетной миланской семьи, живущей в Villa Necchi Campiglio. Этот особняк с большой историей укрыт от посторонних глаз в нескольких шагах от шумного и многолюдного duomo. В Милане так легко увлечься великолепными соборами и джелатериями, но стоит только чуть отойти от очевидных достопримечательностей, как открывается совершенно иной город, в котором всегда найдется что-нибудь увлекательное. И если большинство европейских городов встречает гостей с распростертыми объятиями, то Милан с первого взгляда может показаться слишком холодным и отстраненным. Как пишет в своей книге «Милан: еда, мода и семья в замкнутом городе» Робин Леа, «Милан похож на закрытого, необщительного человека – его так же сложно сходу понять или почувствовать».

Робин Леа родилась в Австралии, а в 18 лет переехала в Милан, где постепенно подружилась с законодателями городских вкусов – основательницей марки 10 Corso Como Карлой Соззани и легендарным дизайнером Барнабой Форнасетти. «Милан – это большая креативная машина. А когда вы живете здесь, то либо становитесь частью этой энергии и удивительной творческой

силы, либо не получаете никакого удовольствия», - утверждает Леа.

Логично, что она рекомендует гостям города с головой погрузиться в творческое пространство Милана. Например, можно провести целый день, рассматривая эклектичную подборку в концепт-сторе Антонио Марраса, расположенном в индустриальном здании бывшей фабрики. Поиск входа в студию металлической скульптуры Осанны и Мадины Висконти ди Модроне иллюстрирует, насколько сложно ориентироваться в этом городе. За дверями скрытой от посторонних глаз (и оттого еще более привлекательной) студии мастерской скрываются замысловатые аксессуары и авангардная домашняя утварь. Леа отмечает, что ателье «не обозначено вывеской с улицы, а войти в него можно только через старинный внутренний двор, предварительно получив разрешение привратника».

Компания Antiques & Boutiques помогает путешественникам познакомиться с подобными потайными местами Милана. Она разрабатывает индивидуальные экскурсии, посвященные дизайну, стилю, кухне и культуре, - словом всему тому, что способно передать истинный дух города. Эти туры, по уверению их авторов, «создаются и проводятся неравнодушными

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86: In Focus: The Aquazzura High Heel

В фокусе: Туфли на высоком каблуке Aquazurra

Оливия Майл поговорила с дизайнером Эдгардо Осорио, который под маркой Aquazzura создал самые узнаваемые туфли нашего десятилетия

Культовые туфли всегда олицетворяют эпоху, с которой они связана: вспомните хотя бы платформы 1960-х, классические шпильки 1980-х и балетки 1990-х. А в 2010-х все самое роскошное и интересное в стиле воплощают туфли Sexy Ting от Aquazzura с прорезным узором.

Эдгардо Осорио, колумбиец по происхождению, основал марку Aquazzura во Флоренции в 2011 году. И первой же разработкой под собственным именем

местными жителями, и они приглашают вас разделить с ними город, которые они знают и любят». Одна из остановок в такой экскурсии – винтажный магазин Cavallie e Nastri в районе Brera (кстати, по соседству расположены арт-галереи и многочисленные дизайнерские бутики).

Еще один способ проникнуться духом Милана – конечно, еда, главная итальянская страсть. Больше самой еды для итальянцев значит, пожалуй, только культура трапезы. Леа настоятельно рекомендует начинать каждый день в Милане с чашки кофе в одной из старейших кондитерских Taveggia, причем пить его нужно al bar – то есть прямо у барной стойки. Продолжить день имеет смысл в Luini на Via Santa Redegonda. Здесь готовят восхитительные сладости с тех самых пор, как Джузеппина Луини приехала в Милан – то есть с 1949 года. «Сегодня те дети, которые когда-то прибегали за нашими panzerotti после школы, возвращаются к нам уже со своими детьми», - делятся представители семье Луини, которые по-прежнему управляют этим заведением.

Миланцы также ценят ресторан Ex Mauri на улице Via Federico Confalonieri, в меню которого фаршированные кальмары (calamari ripieni на итальянском), паста с цветками цуккини, соленая треска в кляре и другие венецианские блюда удачно дополняют обильную и насыщенную миланскую кухню. На ужин отправляйтесь в ресторан Ceresio 7 шеф-повара Элио Саррони, чтобы насладиться неповторимыми видами и ароматами.

Совершенно иным антуражем обладает старейший в Милане магазин игрушек Fortuna Giocattoli на улице Via Olmetto, основанный в 1914 году. Возможно, его очарование не столь очевидно, тем не менее, это место сохранило верных покупателей, а вместе с ними – и исторический статус заведения, воплощающего «реальный» Милан.

«Самый ценный опыт требует больших усилий. А если человек готов искать и открывать истинный Милан, если он сможет полюбить этот город, даже когда

это чувство кажется безответным, тогда барьеры, наконец, рухнут, и город раскроет свое сердце», - обещает Леа.antoniomarras.it, osannavisconti.it,cavallienastri.com, antiquesandboutiques.com,taveggia.it, luini.it, exmauri.com, ceresio7.com,fortura.it

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стали эти классические по силуэту туфли-ботильоны. Проработав до этого десять лет на Salvatore Ferragamo, Осорио понял, что в Тоскане многие века работали «лучшие в мире обувщики и кожевенники». Поэтому он решил открыть свой лейбл именно в Италии. Теперь туфли Осорио продаются по всему миру, в том числе – в бутике La Rinascente в Милане.

Источником вдохновения для дизайнера стали образы «лебёдушек» из 1960-х – так свои подруг называл писатель Трумана Капоте. Осорио хотел создать обувь для «современных лебедей»: «Я латиноамериканец и люблю танцевать, - делится он. – Побывав на самых разных свадьбах, я заметил, что девушки снимают туфли перед танцами. Мне захотелось разработать такую обувь, чтобы они могли танцевать в ней всю ночь напролет».

Узнаваемый силуэт, тонкий каблук высотой 11 см, резной узор, отчасти обнажающий ногу – все это создает особенное, чувственное ощущение: «Вырезы делают эти туфли такими сексуальными, поскольку обнажают кожу, но сама нога при этом остается сокрытой», - объясняет дизайнер.

После презентации модели в 2011 году ее популярности способствовала итальянский модный редактор Джованна Баттаглиа. Она часто оказывалась перед объективами

фотографов в туфлях Sexy Ting, причем разных оттенков, неизменно ярких. Своим чувственным и вместе с тем остро-модным обликом туфли идеально вписались в выразительный стиль Баттаглиа. И постепенно стали хитом в модной тусовке.

Насыщенная цветовая палитра – еще одна сильная сторона Sexy Ting, созвучная современному модному тренду. Мировые иконы стиля разных поколений отдают предпочтения хиту Aquazzura – от Кары Делевинь и Эммы Уотсон до Соланж Ноулз и Натальи Водяновой. «Мне нравится думать, что моя обувь подходит людям разных возрастов, - говорит Осорио. – Что ее можно носить круглый год и в любых ситуациях. Я встречал знаменитостей на званых вечерах, которые выбирали эти туфли к вечерним платьям, и девушек на пляже в джинсовых шортах и футболках. Они непринужденно подходят к любому наряду, что делает их очень актуальными».

Для основной части этой модели используется мягкая замша, которая естественным образом принимает форму ноги. Sexy Ting первой испытала эксклюзивную технику, которую Aquazzura вскоре запатентовала. Теперь делать из обуви «вторую кожу» умеет только эта компания: ее модели непередаваемо гибкие и удобные, словно «вы надели перчатку на высокий каблук».

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美文翻译

声势浩大的艺术运动正影响着米兰的最新时尚设

计，Harriet Quick 报道

66: Creative Edge

创意前沿

Особый комфорт обеспечивает специально разработанная подошва: мастера вложили много времени и сил в изучение существующих техник и поиск нового решения. «Эксперт, прорабатывающий технологию для моих новых вещей, освоил конструирование обуви в совершенстве. Теперь вес тела более равномерно распределяется между подушечками пальцев, взъемом и пяткой, тогда как в обычных туфлях максимальное давление оказывается на подушечки пальцев – и нога чувствует себя крайне неуютно», - отмечает Осорио. В результате Sexy Ting прославились как «обувь для модных недель» и «туфли на 24 часа» и оказались особенно востребованы среди модных редакторов в сезон презентаций международных коллекций.

«Ботильоны Sexy Ting не подвластна капризам модных сезонов и веяниям времени. Их эстетика впитала красоту и изысканность итальянского стиля, который просто невозможно исчерпать. Это та небольшая роскошная деталь, которая, как это бывает, делает весь образ великолепным», - подытоживает Осорио.aquazzura.com

142: When You Shop The World,

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从上季开始，设计师们就为植物世界深深着迷，他

们所运用的野生花朵、花瓣状层叠与大量灵感来自

植物的设计，足以填满一座自然历史博物馆。在秋冬

季，他们将注意力转投更为神秘、更挑战思辨的当代

艺术领域，尤其是包豪斯运动与激浪派运动，以及

白驹过隙般的装置与表演艺术。

时尚与艺术之间的友谊，与时尚本身一样长久，

当下的联姻不仅带来高水准的合作系列，还有诸多

艺术盛事得到赞助，例如伦敦Frieze艺博会与巴黎

的Fiac艺博会，这些活动拉开了秋季的序幕，也为

时装裁剪、架构与演绎形式等各方面带来潜移默化

的影响。

在为最新一季的男装与女装系列做早期研究的

过程中，Miuccia Prada（也是Prada艺术基金会的

主理人）沉浸于1970年代激浪派运动的激进作品

里。激浪派里有来自艺术、电影与音乐各领域的国际

艺术家，他们注重自发性、幽默以及对正统展览形式

的游击干预，并强调任何材质，从报纸到碎瓷片，都

可以成为艺术的主题与载体。

为了向激浪派艺术家Joseph Beuys致敬——他

常用毛毡与皮革将物品、房间、甚至自己覆盖起

来，Prada的米兰发布会空间也被灰色厚工业毛毡

所覆盖，模特们楔形高跟鞋发出的声响被消减，就

像来参加地下艺术运动的秘密集会一般。系列中的

造型几乎是反时尚的：怪异的色彩组合（棕色、黄色

与黑色），颈链、领带与毛皮装饰将朴素的设计变得

令人瞠目结舌。

秋冬季最令人印象深刻的发布会，都可被称

作艺术现场。譬如Agnona的发布会请来了Dree

Hemingway——Ernest Hemingway智慧与美丽

并存的重孙女做模特。发布会在艺术装饰风格的场

景中举行，皮革、羊皮与羽毛打造的空间内，穿插着

毛茸花朵与羽毛装饰的踢脚板。Agnona的创意总

监Stefano Pilati为这个意大利巨擘Ermenegildo

Zegna掌控的品牌，带来了不可言喻的性感与触觉。

身着波浪贴花图案茧型大衣、穿戴皮质晚装手套与

宽腿裤的Hemingway，化身极度优雅的艺术使者。

需要注意的是，代表永恒变化的波浪形，也是激浪

派最喜欢使用的暗喻。

对于织物与结构的兴趣与重视，让许多设计师

将目光投向包豪斯艺术学校，这所由建筑师Walter

Gropius在1919年创办的多学科艺术与手工艺研

究机构。包豪斯引人注目的无装饰建筑、家具与图

案设计，激发了时装设计师们的想象力。Marni品

牌的Consuelo Castiglioni，与Pilati在本季都使

用了大胆的图案配色，创新的面料与复杂的剪裁工

艺。Bottega Veneta品牌的Tomas Maier原本就十

分精通并热衷于艺术与摄影，他为新一季创作出自

称为“谜团”的夺目系列。上窄下宽的郁金香形裙装

外套与装饰几何贴花镶片的直筒连衣裙，也是对手

工构造学的借鉴。系列中的晚礼服则由薄纱与布满

渐变色涟漪的雪纺面料缠绕而成，远远望去好似一

幅精细的水墨画。

随着新一季的系列纷纷运达店内，其艺术配方

将面临顾客的考验。如果你发现自己为灰毛毡茧形

大衣、双面羊绒饰边中裙，拼色块无袖夹克、丝质衬

衣裙或是构成主义风格楔形鞋怦然心动，那么艺术

与时装的联盟已成功将精神远播。

prada.com, agnona.com, bottegaveneta.com

贝思·德鲁斯（Beth Druce）发现，从隐秘的工作

室到传统的商铺和咖啡馆，这座城市有太多的东西

值得探索。

在卢卡·瓜达格尼诺（Luca Guadagnino）的电影

《我是爱》中，剧情围绕着一户居住在内基·坎皮里

奥别墅（Villa Necchi Campiglio）的米兰望族展

开。这栋历史悠久的别墅是一座隐藏在大教堂喧嚣

背后的宅邸。造访米兰时很容易被惊艳的大教堂和

50种冰淇淋口味分散注意力，但是剖开这些表面的

魅力，一个截然不同的城市显露出来，准备好让你深

入它的内在。

尽管许多欧洲的城市会张开热烈的臂膀欢迎

76: The Magic Of Milan

米兰魔力

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Aquazzura缔造了近十年来最知名的鞋子之一。在

这一期，奥利维亚·迈尔斯（Olivia Miles）将对话其

设计背后的男人——埃德加多·奥索里奥（Edgardo

Osorio）。

86: In Focus: The Aquazzura High Heel

聚焦：Aquazurra高跟鞋迷情

你，米兰可能会显得有些冷漠。正如《米兰：在隐秘

之城探索食物、时尚和家族》（Milan: discovering

food, fashion and family in a private city）的作者

罗宾·利亚（Robyn Lea）说的那样：“同样，非常注

重隐私或矜持的人很难被读懂并经常受到误解，米

兰也如此。”

澳大利亚出生的利亚在18岁时搬到米兰，

这座城市的“风尚创造者们”慢慢让她陷入

其中: 10 Corso Como的创始人卡拉·索赞尼

（Carla Sozzani），传奇设计师巴纳巴·佛纳塞蒂

（Barnaba Fornasetti），这些如雷贯耳的名字都是

米兰制造。“米兰就像一架大型的创意机器，你住在

那儿就想成为这个能量和创意推动力的一部分，要

不然你是不会喜欢这里的。”利亚说。

因此，利亚呼吁游客们让自己沉浸在一些创意

空间里，慢慢体会，比如安东尼奥·马拉斯（Antonio

Marras）的概念店。在这座旧工厂里，游客可以花

一天的时间细细挑选别具一格的作品。寻找金属雕

刻家Osanna和Madina Visconti di Modrone的工

作室显示出在这座城市里穿行的复杂性。这个温馨

的地方陈列着精密的配饰和前卫的家居用品，是这

个城市隐藏着最好的秘密之一。按照利亚的说法，这

个工作室“在大街上没有标识，只能通过古老的内庭

院进入，并需要获得守门人的同意”。

这就是旅行服务供应商Antiques & Boutiques

可以帮忙的地方。这家公司提供度身打造的游览项

目，专注于设计、格调、食物和文化等可以抓住米兰

精髓的主题。公司说，他们的旅行团“是由热情洋

溢、充满活力的本地人策划和引导的，他们邀请您一

起分享这座他们熟悉热爱的城市”。旅行中的一站

是布雷拉区的古着店Cavallie e Nastri。这个区域拥

有米兰众多的艺术画廊和室内设计精品店。

另一种渗透米兰外围的方式是通过意大利人最

爱的美食。在许多方面，重要的是美食文化而不是

食物本身。利亚建议来米兰参观的游人去米兰最古

老的糕点店之一Taveggia的酒吧享用一杯咖啡，开

始每一天。

接下来可以去试一试Luini。这家小吃店位于圣

雷德冈达大街（Via Santa Redegonda），自1949

年Guiseppina Luini来到这座城市，小店就开始烘

培带馅儿的美味糕点。“如今，以前放学后常来吃烤

馅饼（panzerotti）的孩子带着他们自己的孩子一

起来。”Luini家族这样解释说。本地人也喜欢聚集

在Federico Confalonieri大街的Ex Mauri。在这

里有丰富而丰盛的米兰菜肴，还有简便一点的威尼

斯菜品可供选择，如calamari ripieni（酿鱿鱼）、西

葫芦花配通心粉和盐皮鳕鱼。晚餐可以去大厨Elio

Sirron的餐厅Ceresio 7 ，那里有独特的景致和绝

妙的口味。

最后可以去一个全然不同的地方。Olmetto大街

的Fortura Giocattoli玩具店成立于1914年，堪称

全米兰最古老的玩具店。一个地方可能没有流露出

明显的吸引力却拥有忠诚的追随者，而这家店就完

美的印证了这一点。追随者们巩固了其作为一家代

表“真”米兰的百年老字号的地位。

“最有价值的经历需要花费最多的努力。当一

个人准备好去探索发掘米兰，并在感觉没有回报的

情况下也能够热爱这座城市的时候，障碍最终会

消失，这座城市最后也会敞开她的心扉。”利亚总

结道。

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cavallienastri.com, antiquesandboutiques.com,

taveggia.it, luini.it, exmauri.com, ceresio7.com,

fortura.it

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标志性的鞋履设计总是可以定义孕育它的时代：想

一想20世纪60年代的松糕鞋，经典的80年代细高

跟鞋和90年代的芭蕾舞鞋。而现在，在21世纪的10

年代，Aquazzura的Sexy Thing “性感小东西”镂

空短靴浓缩了时尚所有好而美的一面。

这款系带踝靴是由哥伦比亚出生的设计师埃

德加多·奥索里奥打造的，他于2011年在佛罗伦萨

创立了Aquazzura；而这是他为个人品牌第一次

设计鞋履。在为萨瓦尔多·菲拉格慕（Salvatore

Ferragamo）工作了十年之后，奥索里奥知道托斯卡

纳是如何成为“世界最佳鞋匠和最优皮革”之乡的。

他决定在意大利发布自己的个人品牌，而他的设计

在世界各地均有销售，包括米兰的文艺复兴百货商店

（La Rinascente）。

奥索里奥的灵感来源于作家杜鲁门·卡波特在

60年代美艳的女性朋友们。卡波特将她们称之为“

天鹅”，而奥索里奥力图为“今日的天鹅们”设计一款

鞋子。“我是拉美人，热爱跳舞，”他说。“我参加过许

多婚礼并记得女孩子们在开始跳舞之前脱掉鞋子的

场景。我想设计一款鞋子，让女孩可以通宵跳舞。”

镂空的款式和11公分的细高跟让人可以一眼认

出这款鞋子，而设计中感官和裸露的元素给予了鞋

子与众不同的感觉。“是镂空设计让这款鞋子如此

性感。镂空让一些皮肤暴露在外，但足部的大部分

仍然是被鞋子包裹在内的。”奥索里奥解释道。

自2011年Aquazzura Sexy Thing短靴被

推出以来，意大利时尚编辑吉奥瓦娜·巴塔格里亚

（Giovanna Battaglia）率先掀起了这款鞋子的

流行风暴。她经常被拍到穿着不同颜色的同款鞋，

而这个设计也很快成为了各大时尚合集的热门单

品。Sexy Thing将具有感官性和先锋性的设计与

闪亮的色彩相结合，这与巴塔格里亚活力四射的风

格堪称天作之合。除了设计以外，Sexy Thing的独

特之处在于其充满生气的配色选择，彰显了目前时

尚对于大胆、饱和色调的关注。现在，从卡拉·迪瓦

伊（Cara Delevingne）到艾玛·沃特森，从索朗·

诺尔斯（Solange Knowles）到纳塔利娅·沃佳诺娃

（Natalia Vodianova），不同年龄段的国际风尚偶

像们都穿着Sexy Thing短靴。

“我喜欢这样想，我的鞋子是可以跨越世代

的，”奥索里奥说。“你可以一年到头都穿着它，打扮

得或隆重或随意。我看过红毯上的名流身着晚礼服

穿着这双鞋，也看过沙滩上的女孩们用牛仔短裤和

T恤搭配这双鞋。这就是为什么它如此摩登的原因：

它很轻松，几乎可以与任何装扮搭配。”

鞋身是由无衬里的羊绒绒面依据足部的形状

精心制成的，仿佛与足部融为一体浑然天成。事实

上，Sexy Thing短靴是第一款使用Aquazzura生

产技术的设计。现在这个技术已经受到了专利保

护。根据公司的描述，这项“第二肌肤”的技术是

Aquazzura独一无二的，是它让鞋子拥有不同寻

常的柔软和舒适，让你感觉好像“在高跟鞋上戴手

套”一样。

舒适也来自于鞋底。能工巧匠们花费了许多时

间研究各种构造和贴合的技术，才有了现在的成

果。“制作鞋楦的工匠想出了一种构造鞋子的方法，

让身体的重量可以更加均匀的分布在足跟、足弓和

足背上，而不是相反，让身体的所有重量集中于足

跟，这样会很不舒服。”奥索里奥说。在品牌的国际

鞋履系列发布期间，Sexy Thing在时尚编辑之间流

行起来。这一独创设计使之获得了“时装周鞋履”

和“24小时鞋履”的称号。

“Sexy Thing是一款不分季节、不因时间而腿

色的鞋子。我的美学观反映出了一种意大利风格的

美丽与精巧，从来都不会设计过度，画蛇添足。是细

微和奢华的细节缔造出伟大的东西，就像生活中其

他的事情一样。”奥索里奥最后说道。

aquazzura.com

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ンそのものの歴史と同じくらい古く、今シーズンは、

名高いブランドのコラボレーションや秋シーズンを告

げるフリーズ・ロンドンやパリのフィアックといったア

ートフェアでのスポンサーシップの形で見られる他、

カットや造形、表現法にもさりげなく表れている。

ミウッチヤ・プラダ（プラダ芸術財団の理事長も

務める）は、メンズウェアとウーマンズウェアの最新コ

レクションのためのリサーチで、1970年代のフルクサ

ス運動家の急進的な作品を調べ上げた。フルクサス

はアート、映画、音楽の分野出身で、自発性とユーモ

アを重んじ、公式の展示会よりゲリラ的な作品展示

を好む多国籍のアーティスト集団で、新聞紙から欠

けた瀬戸物まで、あらゆる材料がアートの主題や素

材になり得ると強調した。

フルクサスのアーティスト、ヨーゼフ・ボイスはし

ばしば物体や部屋、自分自身をフェルトや革で覆っ

たが、プラダでは彼に敬意を表して、ミラノのショー

スペースを産業用の分厚いグレーのフェルトで覆っ

た。モデルがキャットウォークに現れた時、ウェッジ

日本語翻訳

66: Creative Edge

先端の創造力

影響力ある芸術運動がミラノの最新ファッションデ

ザインのインスピレーションとなっている。ハリエッ

ト・クイックがレポートする。

先シーズン、デザイナーたちは植物の世界に魅了さ

れ、野に咲く花や花びらのようなレヤーをはじめ、自

然史博物館を埋めるのに十分なほど植物関連のモ

チーフをデザインに取り入れた。

秋冬シーズンは謎めいて知的要求水準の高い

モダンアートの世界に注意を向けている。具体的に

は、バウハウスとフルクサスの芸術運動と、インスタ

レーションアートやパフォーマンスアートの束の間の

世界だ。

ファッションとアートの密接な関係はファッショ

142: When You Shop The World,

Shop Tax Free

畅购全球，尊享退税

当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商店消费时，

环球蓝联（Global Blue）购物退税服务（Tax Free

Shopping）为您节约购物开销。

每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联（Global

Blue）获得购物退税，您怎能错过？您要做的只

是寻找蓝星标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联

（Global Blue）服务，然后遵循我们简单的退税

过程：

1. 消费购物

无论您在哪里消费，请索要环球蓝联退税表格

（Global Blue Tax Free Form）。

2. 申请退税

当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城市的海关柜台

请他们在您的退税表格上盖章，然后再到环球蓝联

退税点领取您的退税款。

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除管理手续费。若选择即时现金退税，部分退税点

将以退税表格为单位收取一定数额的手续费。

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76: The Magic Of Milan

ミラノ・マジック

隠れたアトリエから老舗のショップやカフェまで、こ

の都市には発見が一杯。ベス・ドゥルースが探訪し

た。

ルカ・グァダニーノの映画『 I Am Love（邦題・ミラ

ノ、愛に生きる）』では、賑やかなドゥオーモ広場の

裏手にひっそりと佇むヴィラ・ネッキ・カンピリオに住

むミラノの名門一族を中心にストーリーが展開する。

ミラノといえば、荘厳な大聖堂やフレーバーが50種

類もあるジェラートに気を取られがちだが、そうした

明らかな名所、名物の裏に隠れたものに目を凝らす

と、違った街が現れて訪問者をたちまち虜にする。

ヨーロッパの多くの都市が大手を広げて観光客

を歓迎する中で、ミラノはどこかしらよそよそしく見

えることがある。ただ、それは『ミラノ：内気な街の

食、ファッション、家族（Milan: discovering food,

fashion and family in a private city）』の著者ロビ

ン・リーが言うように、「とても内気で無口な人の心

情が読みづらくて誤解されがちなことがあるけれど、

ミラノという都市も同じ」だ。

オーストラリア生まれで18歳でミラノに越して来

たリーは、10コルソコモの創設者カーラ・ソッザーニ

や伝説的デザイナーのバルナバ・フォルナセッティと

いったこの街の「テイストメーカー」に次第に惹きつ

けられていった。「ミラノは巨大な創造集団のような

もので、ここに住めばそのエネルギーと創造力の一

端になりたいと思うもの。そうでなければ、この街を

楽しむことはできない」と、リーはいう。

そこで、リーは訪問者にクリエイティブな空間に

どっぷり浸かることを薦めている。アントニオ・マッラ

スのコンセプトストアがその一例で、古い工場を改装

したこの店舗では、幅広い品揃えをあれこれ見て回

るだけで一日過ごせる。この街の探訪が勝手を知ら

ない人にとっていかに難しいかは、オサンナ・ヴィス

コンティ・ディ・モドローネとマディーナ・ヴィスコンテ

ィ・ディ・モドローネの彫金家母娘のスタジオを探し

当てる苦労でわかる。手の込んだアクセサリーやア

ヴァンギャルドなホームウェアが並ぶこの居心地のい

い空間は、知る人ぞ知るミラノの穴場だ。リーによれ

ば、このアトリエは「看板も出ておらず、ドアマンの許

可を得なければ入れず、昔ながらの中庭を通り抜け

た先にある」という。

ここぞ、ツアー業者「アンティーク＆ブティック」

の出番だ。同社は、ミラノ魂の真髄を捉えたデザイ

ン、スタイル、食、文化に焦点を当てたテーラーメイド

ツアーを提供している。同社のツアーは、「ミラノっ

子が知り、愛する街の魅力を共有してもらいたいとい

ヒールの靴音がフェルトで消されて、まるでアングラ

芸術運動の秘密会合から出てきたかのような雰囲

気だった。ほとんどアンチ・ファッション的なスタイ

ルが顕著に見られ、妙な配色（茶、黄、黒）やネック

レス、ネクタイ、毛皮のトリムが、平凡な服を観客が

思わず会話を忘れて見入る服へと見事に変貌させて

いた。

秋冬シーズンで最も記憶に残るファッションショ

ーは、芸術的な「ハプニング」と評してもいいものだ

った。その好例が、アーネスト・ヘミングウェイの美し

きひ孫娘で才女のドリー・ヘミングウェイをモデルに

起用したアニオナだ。アール・デコ風の舞台はレザー

と羊皮、羽根で覆われ、毛皮製の花や羽根の幅木を

配した設えで、アニオナのクリエイティブ・ダイレクタ

ー、ステファノ・ピラーティが、イタリアの有力ファッ

ション企業エルメネジルド・ゼニアが所有するこの高

級ブランドの官能性と可触性を表出した。波型のアッ

プリケが施されたコクーンコート、レザーの夜会用手

袋、ワイドカットパンツといったいで立ちのヘミングウ

ェイは、とびきりエレガントなアートパトロンのようだ

った。常に進行中の変化を意味する波が、フルクサ

ス運動家が好んで使う隠喩だったことは言うまでも

ない。

生地と造形に関心が集まり、それらが重視され

る中、1919年に建築家ヴァルター・グロピウスが創

設した多分野連携の工芸学校バウハウスに、多くの

デザイナーがインスピレーションを求めた。装飾を

一切排除した印象的なバウハウスの建築、家具、グ

ラフィックデザインが、ファッションデザイナーたち

の想像力を捉えたのだ。マルニのコンスエロ・カステ

ィリオーニやアニオナのピラーティは今シーズン、大

胆で絵画的な配色と革新的な組み立て、複雑なカッ

ト技法を用いている。ボッテガ・ヴェネタでは、アー

トと写真を愛し造詣も深いトーマス・マイヤーが、自ら

「パズル」と呼ぶ見逃せないコレクションを創り出し

た。フィット・アンド・フレアのコートドレスやシフトド

レスには幾何学模様のパネルがアップリケされてい

たが、それらは造形技法のお手本でもあった。イブ

ニングウェアは、グラデーションのさざ波状のチュー

ルやシフォンをふんだんに使って複雑に組み立てら

れ、遠くから見るとまるで繊細な墨絵のようだった。

こうしたアートフルなデザインは、新シーズンの

コレクションが店頭にお目見えした時に評価が下

る。グレイのフェルト製コクーンコート、カシミアのパ

ネルを配したダブルフェースのミディスカート、カラー

ブロックで構成された袖なしジャケット、シルクのシ

ャツドレス、構成主義的なウェッジソールの靴等々。

欲しいなと思ったら、アートとファッションの融合が

成功した証拠だ。

prada.com、agnona.com、bottegaveneta.com

globalblue.com

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86: In Focus: The Aquazzura High Heel

注目のブランド：アクアズーラのハイヒール

2010年代の靴の中で、一目でそれとわかるブランド

の一つがアクアズーラだ。オリヴィア・マイルズが、そ

のデザインの創作者エドガルド・オッソリオにインタ

ビューした。

アイコニックな靴デザインは決まって、それが着想

された時代を特徴づける。60年代のプラットフォー

ム、80年代の典型的なスティレットヒール、90年代の

バレエパンプスがそうだ。そして今、2010年代のファ

ッションの素晴らしさを体現しているのが、アクアズ

ーラのカットアウトブーティー、「セクシーシング」だ。

この足元を包むようなくるぶし丈のブーツのバラ

エティを創り出したのは、コロンビア生まれのデザイ

ナーで2011年にフィレンツェでアクアズーラを創設し

たエドガルド・オッソリオ。セクシーシングは彼が自己

レーベルのために初めてデザインした靴だ。サルヴァ

トーレ・フェラガモで10年働いたオッソリオは、トス

カーナが「世界一優れた靴職人と最良質の革」を誇

る地であることを目の当たりにし、自分のレーベルを

立ち上げるならイタリアだと心に決めた。彼のデザイ

ンはミラノの百貨店ラ・リナシェンテをはじめ、世界

う情熱的で活力に満ちた地元住民が主導し、管理し

ている。」ツアーで訪問する場所の一つは、ヴィンテ

ージショップのカヴァッリ・エ・ナストリだ。この店の

あるブレラ地区はアートギャラリーが多く、インテリ

アデザインブティックも点在している。

ミラノの外見のよそよそしさを打ち破るもう一つ

の方法は、イタリア人が愛してやまない食を通じてだ

が、いろいろな意味で重要なのは食べ物そのものよ

り食文化だ。リーは訪問者に毎日をミラノ有数の老

舗、al bar（喫茶店）タヴェッジアでコーヒーを飲む

ことから始めてはどうかとアドバイスしている。

そして昼食はルイーニでどうぞ。サンタ・レデゴ

ンダ通りにあるこの店は、店主ジュゼッピーナ・ルイ

ーニがこの街に来た1949年以来、おかずパンを焼き

続けている。かつて放課後にパンツェロッティを食

べに来ていた子供たちが、今は自分たちの子供を連

れて来てくれる」とルイーニはいう。もう一つ、地元民

に人気なのがフェデリコ・コンファロニエーリ通りの

エックス・マウリ。このレストランでは、カラマーリ・リ

ピエニ（イカの詰め物）、ズッキーニの花のスパゲッ

ティ、カリッとした衣付き塩鱈といったベネチア料理

が、リッチで食べ応えのあるミラノ料理に代わる軽め

の食事になる。ディナーはエリオ・シローニがシェフ

を務めるセレシオ7が眺めも味も抜群だ。

最後にガラリと趣向を変えて、オルメット通りの

フォルトゥラ・ジョカトーリは、1914年創業とミラノで

最も古い玩具店だ。この店こそ、一見どうということ

はないのに地元で根強い人気があり、「本物の」ミラ

ノを代表する100年物のお宝の典型だ。

「とびきり貴重な体験をするには、それ相当の

努力が必要だ。そして、人がミラノを発見し、そのベ

ールの下にある本当の姿に触れようとする時、たとえ

その想いが一方的なものであっても、バリアはいつ

か取り除かれ、街が心を許すようになる」と、リーは

締めくくっている。

antoniomarras.it, osannavisconti.it,

cavallienastri.com, antiquesandboutiques.com,

taveggia.it, luini.it, exmauri.com, ceresio7.com,

fortura.it

®

®

169

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手続きは簡単。まず、青い星を目印に加盟店を探しま

す。星が見当たらなければ、店員に「グローバル・ブル

ー？」とお尋ねください。あとは、次のステップを踏む

だけです。

1. お買い物

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15.5％の払い戻しが受けられます。最終的な払い戻

し額は、付加価値税（VAT）合計から事務手数料を

差し引いた金額となりますので、その旨ご了承くださ

い。なお、現金での即日還付が必要な場合は、還付

の場所によって、各タックスフリーフォームにつき固

定の追加手数料をとられる場合があります。

まず、踵にかけて体重を万遍なく分散する靴の造り

を、うちの靴型職人が創り出したんです」と、オッソ

リオはいう。この特徴のおかげで、セクシーシングは

国際的なコレクション披露の場でファッションエディ

ターたちが好んで履く靴となり、「ファッションウィー

ク用の靴」、「24時間履ける靴」という評判を得た。

「セクシーシングはシーズンも時代も問わず履

ける靴です。僕の美感に反映されているのは、ある

種のイタリアンスタイルに見られるような、デザイン

を凝り過ぎず大げさになることが決してない美しさと

洗練です。何かを素敵にするのは、ちょっとした贅沢

なディテールなんです。生活のすべてについて言える

ことですけどね」と、オッソリオは締めくくった。

aquazzura.com

中で手に入れることができる。

1960年代に作家トルーマン・カポーティが白鳥

たちと呼んだグラマラスな女友達にインスピレーショ

ンを得たオッソリオは、「現代の白鳥たち」のための

靴を創りたいと考えた。「僕はラテン男で、ダンスが

大好き」という彼だが、「数多くの結婚パーティに行

きましたが、女性がダンスを始める前に靴を脱いで

いるのを見た記憶があって、女性が一晩中履いて踊

れるような靴を創りたいと思ったのです。」

カットアウトスタイルと11cmの細いヒールで一目

でそれとわかるその靴は、肌を露出する官能的なデ

ザインが独特だ。「カットアウトで肌が見えるようにな

っているのがセクシーですが、それでも足はしっかり

カバーしているんですよ」とオッソリオは説明する。

2011年の発売以来、この靴の人気上昇の最先

鋒となってきたのがイタリアのファッションエディタ

ー、ジョヴァンナ・バッタグリア。様々な色のセクシー

シングを履いた彼女の姿がしばしば写真に撮られた

ことで、このデザインはファッション好きの間でたち

まちヒット商品となった。バッタグリアの華麗なスタ

イルは、官能性と先端性を兼ね備えたデザインで明

るい色が冴えるセクシーシングにぴったりマッチして

いる。デザイン以外にセクシーシングの特徴はという

と、大胆な飽和色が注目される現在のファッション

トレンドを考慮して鮮やかな配色を揃えている点だ。

今や、セクシーシング・ブーティーはカーラ・デルヴィ

ーニュ、エマ・ワトソン、ソランジュ・ノウルズ、ナタリ

ア・ヴォディアノヴァなど、年齢層を問わず世界のスタ

イルアイコンの足元を飾っている。

「僕の靴は世代を超えたものと思いたい」とい

うオッソリオ。「一年中履けて、ドレスアップもドレス

ダウンもできます。イブニングドレスに合わせて授賞

式の赤カーペットを闊歩するセレブたちも見ました

し、ビーチでデニムのショートパンツとシャツに合わ

せている女の子たちも見ました。それがモダンさの

秘密でしょう。気楽に履けて、ほぼどんな服装にでも

合う靴です。」

この靴の本体は裏地無しのカシミアスエード製

で、自然に足の形に馴染む。実は、セクシーシング・

ブーティーは、アクアズーラ独特で現在は特許登録

されている製造技術を使ったデザインの第一号だ。

同社によれば、この「セカンドスキン」技術はアクアズ

ーラ独自の製造法で、靴が信じられないほど柔らか

く履き心地の良いものになる。まるで、「ハイヒール上

の手袋のようなフィット感」があるのだ。

履き心地の良さは靴底にも関係している。職人

たちが、造りの良さとフィット感を実現するために数

々の技術を時間をかけて研究した成果だ。「履く人

の全体重が足指の付け根にかかると、履き心地が悪

くなります。そうではなくて、足指の付け根から土踏

Souvenir

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* for map go to page 126