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If you are looking for a wide selection
of exquisite timepieces and FINe jewellery,
you only need to keep one name in mind.
For more than 135 years, the name
“WEMPE” has stood for the utmost
expertise in the art of making jewellery
and timepieces. We offer a unique
selection of valuable treasures at 28
Wempe showrooms world-wide. We are
especially proud because for more than
a century we have been privileged to
contribute to the grand feelings that our
customers express when they purchase
jewellery or timepieces. Our pieces of
jewellery uphold international standards
and are born in our own atelier. This is
true for unusual one-of-a-kind items
as well as for our diverse assortment
of classic pieces with brilliant-cut
diamonds. And a century-old friendship
links us with the world’s foremost watch
www.wempe.com We accept all credit cards.
manufactories. You will find WEMPE
showrooms at the loveliest locations
in great European metropolises, New
York City and in Beijing. Each shop also
offers service or advice whenever you
require it, so you can be certain that we
will always be available to meet your
individual needs. We cordially invite you
to discover an abundance of interesting
new items and exclusive special models
at one of Europe’s leading jewellers. We
look forward to your visit!
An der Hauptwache 7, T +49.(0)69.200 11
Goethestraße 10, T +49.(0)69.20 97 47 47
Airport Frankfurt, Terminal 1,
Level 3, Gates Z, T +49.(0)69.69 02 71 61
Jaeger-LeCoultre Boutique
Goethestraße 4-8, T +49.(0)69.928 83 08-0
HAMBURG LONDON PARIS NEW YORK
Frankfurt Kaiserstraße 1
und viele mehr
and many more
ein Schweizer Traditionsunternehmen und eines
der führenden Häuser für Uhren und Schmuck in
Europa. In Frankfurts größtem Juweliergeschäft
erwartet Sie eine überwältigenden Auswahl an Luxus-
Uhrenmarken und exquisiter Schmuckstücke, ein
erstklassiger Service sowie eine eigene Rolex und
Patek Philippe Boutique.
Willkommen bei Bucherer,
a Swiss company with a long tradition and one of
the leading establishments for watches and jewellery in
Europe. In Frankfurt’s largest jewellery store,
you will find an overwhelming selection of luxury
watch brands and exquisite jewellery, as well as
first-class service and an in-shop Rolex and
Patek Philippe Boutique.
Welcome to Bucherer,
WATCHES JEWELRY GEMS
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Berlin Dusseldorf Frankfurt Hamburg Munich Nuremberg | Basel Bern Davos Geneva Interlaken Lausanne Locarno Lugano Lucerne St. Gallen St. Moritz Zermatt Zurich | Vienna | Paris | bucherer.com
CHRIST JEWELLERS AND WATCHMAKERS IN FRANKFURT.
Hessen Center · Nordwestzentrum · Zeil 77 · 8x International Airport Frankfurt · Skyline Plaza
CHRIST Juweliere und Uhrmacher seit 1863 GmbH, Kabeler Straße 4, 58099 Hagen | CHRIST service line 0180/5 32 10 98 (€ 0.14/min. from a German landline; mobile phone prices max. € 0.42/min.) | *price on request | ** white, small internal characteristics, good cut
&+5,67慤玉ଚ刧�㍤Ѣ㒐偸Ёᖗԡ㕂ˈ
ѻકક䋼ध� 玓̍Ⅵ餡啳� ┠̍ℒ�䑥ৡ
䗝ᢽЄ䔒DŽ刧ݙ偉ጨᅦਬ䗮爇�瀃 䚼̍‐ৃ
Փ�Ё瀃玓ⅥDŽফЁ㊁�㘨ᬃҬDŽ
www.christ.de
Passion. Made in Germany.
The CHRIST DIAMONDS Collection.
Experience diamonds in a whole new way
at over 200 CHRIST specialty stores
throughout Germany.
Only at CHRIST
CHRIST DIAMONDS Ring*
585/- gold with rhodolites and
brilliant cut diamonds, together
approx. 0.15 ct.**
Frankfurt, ZeilKarstadt Warenhaus GmbH | Theodor-Althoff-Straße 2 | 45133 Essen
Our branches in excellent downtown locations of most
important German cities provide shoppers with a modern and
comfortable environment which makes shopping an experience.
Not only strong brands but also our outstanding advisory
service and innovative events attract throngs of buyers.
Enjoy your next shopping spree on the discovery journey
through our store Karstadt Frankfurt.
Fashion, Lifestyle & more
Beauty and more …visit Europe’s
No. 1 perfumery!
• Zeil 100, 069 - 133869150• Kaiserstr. 1, 069 - 284969
WE WILL BE PLE ASED TO WELCOME YOU TO THE
DOUGL A S WORLD OF BE AU T Y IN FR ANKFURT:
Discover a perfumery tradition that dates back more than 100 years, and enjoy Europe’s largest assortment of leading beauty brands – from exclusive fragrances and luxury skin care to trendy color cosme-tic products and fashion accessories.
With 1,200 perfumeries in 18 countries, we are dedicated to providing excellent services and personal consultation to our customers.
Editor’s Letter
14
/globalblue/globalblue /globalblue@环球蓝联-GlobalBlue
@GlobalBlue /GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu
Emma Cheevers ILL
US
TR
AT
ION
: PIN
G Z
HU
Welcome to Frankfurt
Even if you’ve visited Frankfurt before, you may be surprised to discover
the city’s Porzellan Museum, which showcases German’s rich history
as a world leader in ceramics – fnd out more in our feature on page 54.
In this edition, we also profle German fashion’s eco-friendly yet elegant
pioneers (page 42) and reveal the Oska brand’s refreshing take
on womenswear (page 48).
SHOP is part of Global Blue, a Tax Free Shopping market leader,
and publishes guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia.
Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell
you everything you need to know about your chosen destination: the top
global brands, the local favourites you shouldn’t miss and the essential
stores, boutiques, restaurants and places to visit.
For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com. It’s even easier
to claim your tax savings with the Global Blue Card – signing up is
free and you can fnd all the details on the website. And don’t forget
to download the Global Blue mobile app!
With this edition of SHOP, the Global Blue app and your Global Blue
Card, you’re ready to enjoy the best that Frankfurt has to ofer.
Athens and Thessaloniki
Austria
Austrian Alps
Barcelona
Belgium
Berlin
Buenos Aires
Cologne
Copenhagen
Cyprus
Чехия
Düsseldorf
Estonia
Frankfurt
French Riviera
دليل ألانيا德国指南
Руководство Германия
Gothenburg
Hamburg
Hanover
Helsinki Area
Holland
Iceland
Istanbul
Italy
Lake Saimaa
Lebanon
London
Madrid
Milan
Munich
Naples
Nuremburg
Oslo
Paris
Portugal
Prague
Riga
Rimini and Riccione
Rome
Seoul
Singapore
Stockholm
Stuttgart
Switzerland
Tokyo
Vienna
Vilnius
oyster perpetual
datejust lady 31
FO S SIL FL AG SHIP S TO RE
A N D ER H AU P T WAC H E / ZEI L 123
FO S SIL S TO RES FR A NKF UR T
S K Y L I N E P L A Z A · F R A N K F U R T A I R P O R T
W W W.FO S SIL .C O M
Shopping at its best!
Located at the ZEIL, one of
Europe’s famous shopping streets,
GALERIA Kaufhof offers you a full-
service package: excellent products,
capable staff and diverse amenities
guarantee you an unforgettable experi-
ence. From brand-name fashion items
to jewellery, from household goods to
accessories – our fascinating shops
and themed areas provide a huge varie-
ty of international products and our
restaurant “Leonhard’s” has an unique
view over Frankfurt’s skyline. The tradi-
tional department store chain celebrates
2014 its 135th anniversary with special
offers and events. If you come from a
country outside the EU, you can even
enjoy tax-free shopping at
GALERIA Kaufhof!
Please scan the QR-code with your smart-
phone to get more information about your
GALERIA store Frankfurt, An der Hauptwache.
FRANKFURT
AN DER HAUPTWACHE
fashion | lifestyle | beauty
GALERIA Kaufhof...
... makes you fall in
love with Germany
www.galeria.deGALERIA Kaufhof GmbH, Leonhard-Tietz-Str. 1, 50676 Cologne
Contributors
20
globalblue.com
Mónica Goya
Journalist and photographer
Mónica Goya is a picture
assistant at SHOP, helping to
source images from around
the world. When not at work,
she loves hiking and sharing
meals and conversation with
family and friends.
Josh Sims
Freelance journalist and
editor Josh Sims contributes to
publications that include the
Financial Times, Independent,
Observer, Wallpaper and
Esquire. His latest book, 50
Years of British Style Culture,
was published in 2012.
Gwyneth Holland
Journalist and trend consultant
Gwyneth Holland works with
leading brands and agencies to
discover the future as well as
writing for global fashion and
trend publications. She is a
founder of new fashion trends
service Unique Style Platform.
Tang Chiew Ling
Graphic designer and artist
Tang Chiew Ling created
this season’s cover illustration
for SHOP Frankfurt. Her
beautiful illustration uses
real leaves to make the shape
of a sleek and stylish dress,
inspired by our feature on
page 42 about Germany’s
latest eco-fashions. Tang
Chiew Ling is based in Kuala
Lumpur in Malaysia.
Read more about our
illustrations at
globalblue.com/covers.IL
LU
ST
RA
TIO
N: T
AN
g C
hIe
w L
INg
Shop Floor
22
Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the
information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury
or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2014 Global Blue
E DI TOR I A L
Editor-in-chief
Emma Cheevers
PU BL I SH I NG
Publisher
James Morris
Managing editor
Sally McIlhone
Cover illustrator
Tang Chiew Ling
Contributors
Gwyneth Holland,
Maria Kirchen-Hill, Josh Sims
Production editor
Caterina Mazzolai
Assistant production editor
Ruairidh Pritchard
Features editor
Stephen Doig
City guide and lifestyle editor
Verity Hogan
Fashion and news editor
Dominique Fenn
Assistant fashion and market editor
Ximena Daneri
Assistant fashion and news editors
Hannah Lewis,
Isabella Redmond Styles
Fashion assistant
Gemma Latham
Editorial intern
Sammy Ha
Chief sub-editor
Hester Lacey
Copy editors
Sue Flook, Claire Gervat,
Ann Morphew, Harriet O’Brien
Picture editor
Dorcas Brown
Assistant picture editors
Kirsty Andrews, Sarah Beyts
Picture assistants
Grace Bird, Mónica Goya
Picture intern
Rubi Ali
Artworker
Adam Dhaliwal
Artworking assistants
Dionne Hélène, Ai-Lun Huang,
Milkha Lala
Artworking intern
Hibba Sayeed
Online editor
Kirsty Welsh
Online editorial assistant
Katie Ramsingh
Online assistants
Marina Nelson,
Emily Scrivener
Commercial editor
Justine Clifton
Commercial artworking assistant
Aaron Carline
Commercial artworking interns
George Trinick,
Ellie Vigors
Chinese editor
Yuan Fang
Associate Chinese editor
Junjie Dou
Chinese contributing editor
Quingya He
Chinese translators
Xun Ji, Mengjiao Qu, Yin Shi,
Chenguang Yi, Yi Zhang
Chinese interns
Yunhan Fang, Tiantian Liu
Russian editor
Anastasia Nemchenok
Associate Russian editor
Daria Orlova
Assistant Russian editor
Kira Savchenko
Russian editorial assistant
Linda Blank
Russian translators
Teena Garnik,
Gary Ramazanov
Digital manager
Eamonn Leacy
Digital production manager
Funmi Paul-Taiwo
Online commercial editor
Sally Ashley-Cound
Project manager
Bina Summan
International digital
marketing executive
Nina Kobalia
Digital marketing executive
Wenhan Zhang
Digital production assistant
Paul Lecoanet
Advertising and partnership manager
Riccardo Canini
Distribution and partnership manager
Claudia Suárez
Dane Consultancy
GL OBA L BLU E GE R M A N Y
Vice president sales Central Europe
Thorsten Lind
Country manager
Jörg Schönbeck
Marketing sales manager
Michael Mauerhoff
Sales manager
Pino Dufter
Marketing specialist
Mareike Dieckmann
Global Blue Germany, Vogelsanger Weg 38,
40470 Düsseldorf,
Regional tourist office
Tourismus+Congress,Kaiserstrasse 56,
60329 Frankfurt am Main,
+49 (0)69 2123 8800,
frankfurt-tourismus.de
SHOP is published by Global Blue
Group headquarters
Global Blue SA,
Route de Crassier 7,
CH - 1262 Eysins, Switzerland
Corporate registration number
5565726923
globalblue.com
Contents
24
p.42
Above: Isabell de Hillerin autumn/winter 2014/15
Products
30 Check Out
sHoP selects a standout piece from
Frankfurt this season
32 Products
Key looks for the season, from fashion and
footwear to jewellery and accessories
N e ws
34 Shop Window
one store not to be missed in Frankfurt
36 News
seasonal updates on shops, services and
new products
40 In Store …
… with Marc-Jens Biegel in his fagship
Frankfurt jewellery store
F e at u r e s
42 Cover Story: Sustainable Style
Germany’s well-established green scene
continues to encourage fashion design that
combines elegance with an eco-friendly
attitude, reports Gwyneth Holland
48 The New Cool
the oska label has gone from strength to
strength thanks to its refreshing approach
to womenswear. Josh sims talks to founder
Helmut Bayer about his recipe for success
54 Breaking The Mould
German porcelain has always been
innovative and the country’s top brands
remain world leaders, as stephen
doig discovers
Montblanc Star Classiqueand Hugh Jackman
Crafted for New Heights
Manufactured in Switzerland, the Star Classique Automatic, with its slim 8.9 mm 18 K red gold case and its ergonomically shaped case back, is a fi ne companion for an elegant appearance. Visit and shop at Montblanc.com
Munich, Berlin, Cologne, Hamburg, Düsseldorf, Frankfurt, Stuttgart, Hannover
Contents
26
Online
English | Р ус ский | 中文
Follow the Global Blue editors
on the move for up-to-the-
minute shopping tips and
insider information.
/globalblue
/globalblue
/globalblue
@环球蓝联-GlobalBlue
@GlobalBlue
/GlobalBlue
/GlobalBlueRu
GET SOCIALFASHION
COMPETITIONS
PH
OT
O: M
el
an
ie G
al
ea
/TH
es
Tr
ee
TM
us
e.iT
The latest in luxury shopping and travel is updated every day at globalblue.com
E x pE r i E ncE
60 Table Talk
Frankfurt’s fnest restaurants ofer menus
that embrace an array of infuences,
distinctive dining rooms and exemplary
service. Verity Hogan suggests some of
the city’s best
Gu i dE
65 Maps and guides to the key shopping
areas of Frankfurt, plus useful information
for visitors
E ssE n t i a l s
86 How To Shop Tax Free
the simple steps to saving money
on your shopping
t r a nsl at ions
89 Русский Перевод
94 美文翻译
sou V E n i r
98 the essential item to bring home
OVER 60 PREMIUM BRANDS IN FLAGSHIP OUTLETS REDUCED BY UP TO 70 %**
ARMANI . BALLY . BURBERRY . COACH . ESCADA . HACKETT . HUGO BOSS . LACOSTE .
MAX MARA . MICHAEL KORS . NIKE . POLO RALPH LAUREN . SWAROVSKI and many more
LIKE SHOPPING? LOVE OUTLETCITY!
In Hugo Boss’ home town, just two hours from Frankfurt, OUTLETCITY METZINGEN
offers you a unique shopping experience in modern inner-city surroundings with
exclusive flagship outlets, prize-winning architecture and tax-free shopping.
Exclusive events and monthly themes like Luxury Denim, Autumn Cocooning or
Winterdays make your visit to OUTLETCITY METZINGEN a unique experience all year round.
* Show this ad at the Tourist Information Metzingen, get your personal Shopping Pass and beneft from exclusive additional discounts
of 10 % at participating stores. Valid until 31.05.2015
** Compared to the manufacturer’s previous RRP
SPECIAL OFFER
SHOPPING
PASS*
TOMMY HILFIGER STOREBÖRSENSTRASSE 1FRANKFURT
30 | PRODUCTS
Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 86
belt factory, Abro soon expanded to produce
a line of women’s handbags and has continued
to evolve, now ofering a complete accessories
range including footwear and small leather
goods, in addition to bags and belts. Achim
and Stefan Bruder, the third generation of
the founding family, ensure the brand remains
relevant to modern fashions, while maintaining
a high standard of quality and craftsmanship. gl
Abro backpack, €349, Abro, Rathenauplatz 1,
60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 2193 9450, abro.de
* for map go to page 74
BACK TO BLACK
This covetable backpack from women’s
accessories brand Abro is made in Germany
from the highest-quality leather. Its quilted
pockets and long tasseled zips give it a retro
rodeo style, while the adjustable shoulder straps
address functionality, a core principle of the
Abro brand. The company is based in Rodgau,
a small town near Frankfurt, and was founded
by the Bruder family in the 1930s. Initially a
Check Out
ESC ADA .COM
FRANKFURT AM MAIN
GOETHEPL ATZ 5 – 7 +49 69 90025995
32 | PRODUCTS
Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 86
PH
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2. Rimowa Limbo Multiwheel size
52 suitcase, €519,
Galeria Kaufhof, Zeil 116-126,
60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 21910,
rimowa.de
3. Coccinelle bag, €339,
Kofer Klein, Rossmarkt 10,
60311 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 284814,
coccinelle.com
4. Louis Vuitton scarf, from €570,
Louis Vuitton, Goethestrasse 1,
60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 280010,
louisvuitton.com
1. Swarovski Babylon earrings, €59,
Swarovski,
Grosse Bockenheimer Strasse 8,
60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 2972 9866,
swarovski.com
SPOTS, STRIPES AND SPARKLE
Upgrade casual daywear with
rich colour, a clash of patterns
and a fash of sparkle
1
2 4
3
globalblue.com
SHOP | 33
7. Michael Kors lipstick, €27.99,
Douglas, Zeil 98-102,
60313 Frankfurt,
+49 (0)69 1338 69150,
michaelkors.com
6. Jimmy Choo Datcher boots, €995,
Jimmy Choo, Goethestrasse 27,
60313 Frankfurt,
+49 (0)69 2578 82800,
jimmychoo.com
5. Closed sweater, €259,
Breuninger, Main-Taunus Zentrum 26,
65843 Sulzbach,
+49 (0)69 695 2200,
closed.com
5 6
7
Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 86
34 | N E WS
Shop Window
across the world, it was only a few years ago that Feiler opened its frst standalone store. The Frankfurt boutique does not disappoint fans of the brand. A cheery, colourful space, the store ofers a unique opportunity to browse the entire range of Feiler goods, from towels, bathrobes and tablecloths to handbags, scarves and childrenswear. The array of items available is almost as vast as the variety of colours and patterns on display. glFeiler, Schillerstrasse 18, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 2193 2832, feiler.de
* for map go to page 74
A HISTORY IN TEXTILES
In 1928, textile worker Ernst Feiler gathered a team of 15 home weavers and began producing fne chenille items. By 1950, when Feiler’s daughter and son-in-law joined the family business, its success was already marked; the Feiler family possessed a keen ability to recognise the importance of technological developments, which established the company as a front-runner in the chenille industry. Though its excellent wares have long been sold
PH
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.DE
Skagen Denmark
Flagship Store:
MyZeil
Zeil 106-110
60313 Frankfurt
www.skagen.de
Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 86
DANISH DESIGN
Danish lifestyle brand Skagen has opened a store in Frankfurt, located on the Zeil, the city’s famous shopping street. The brand champions the Danish design principles of simplicity, functionality and purpose, ofering elegant and innovative craftsmanship. The new store houses all the Skagen collections, including jewellery, watches and sunglasses. New for autumn/winter is a selection of high-quality leather bags and accessories for men and women which beautifully epitomise modern classic design, exemplifed by the Harbor document bag pictured, which is sure to become a wardrobe staple. glSkagen, MyZeil, Zeil 106, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 2097 6961, skagen.com
* for map go to page 70
KORS COMES TO FRANKFURT
Few designers can boast such a career as Michael Kors. The American designer has come a long way from his beginnings in a small corner in New York’s Bergdorf Goodman store. As well as men’s and women’s ready-to-wear items, Michael Kors creates sought-after accessories, from fragrances to watches and bags. Look out for the Hamilton Traveller tote – perfect for jet-setters – in the newly opened store in Frankfurt. Be sure to also pick up a pair of stylish aviator sunglasses, an absolute Kors classic, perfect whatever the season. hlMichael Kors, Goethestrasse 32, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 1338 9360, destinationkors.com
* for map go to page 75
36 | N E WS
SHOP | 37
globalblue.com
SHOP THE WORLD
Using our wealth of insider knowledge,
we have created a smartphone app to
help you to plan your trip. The app gives
information on 45 cities in 22 countries
– thousands of stores are listed and
located on maps, with full contact details
and a description of what each store
sells. Our maps guide you right to the
store and can also be downloaded for
offline use enabling you to create your
own itinerary. You can also sign up for the
Global Blue Card and, once you’re logged
in the My Tax Refund wallet becomes
available, allowing you to track pending
refunds. The app is available in Chinese,
English and Russian, and includes a
Tax Refund Calculator to tell you how
much you’ll save on every purchase you
make in every different country you visit.
There are also instructions on how to use
Currency Choice, our service that allows
you to pay in your home currency.
globalblue.com
Download the Global Blue guide
from the App Store or Play Store
GEM GENIUS
Having celebrated its 125th anniversary in 2013, Swiss brand Bucherer is one of the oldest purveyors of watches and fne jewellery in Germany. Handed down through three generations of the eponymous family, the house draws on its rich heritage for each design, incorporating its traditions, knowledge and expertise in precious metals and gems. Bucherer creates jewellery which is made to last and to be loved. These elegant earrings, available in rose or white gold, feature rows of diamonds on a spiral band which encases a glistening pearl. As is the case with so many of Bucherer’s creations, they epitomise evening elegance. mkh
Bucherer, Kaiserstrasse 1, 60311 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 138820, bucherer.com
* for map go to page 69
Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 86
38 | N E WS
PAINTED LADIES
This season’s Burberry Prorsum collection, notable as the frst from Christopher Bailey in his new dual role as CEO and chief creative of the British brand, marked a departure from the ladylike silhouettes we have come to expect from Burberry. For autumn/winter the Burberry girl is a free-spirited bohemian, with fowing fabrics as the canvas for hand-painted foral fourishes. The collection was inspired by Charleston, the English country home of artists Vanessa Bell and Duncan Grant, who decorated its interior in post-impressionist style. This artistic infuence is abundant throughout the collection, seen in the exaggerated brushstrokes applied liberally to dresses, bags, scarves, shoes and coats. The catwalk show concluded with the cast of models parading in initialled capes, which immediately became the must-have piece of the season. glBurberry, Goethestrasse 26-28, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 9139 6071, burberry.com
* for map go to page 75
TIME FOR WEMPE
The story of Wempe began over 135 years ago with a young watchmaker named Gerhard Diedrich Wilhelm Wempe, whose eye for quality and skills in marketing soon got him noticed by powerful clients. His watch designs were beautiful and accomplished, and by 1907 his success had allowed him to open a fagship in Hamburg. The core values of beauty and quality have remained paramount within Wempe, which is still a family-run company to this day. It is one of Germany’s most prestigious watchmakers, and a timepiece by Wempe should be on every enthusiast’s wish list. hlWempe, An der Hauptwache 7, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 20011, wempe.de
* for map go to page 75 PH
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MyZEiL & MAiN-TAUNUS-ZENTRUM & AiRPORT-AiRSiDE FLUGSTEiG A
www.GANT.cOM
40 | NEWS
Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 86
In Store: Biegel
PH
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fO
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gr
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iein Frankfurt. We sell modern jewellery in a
wide range of precious metals and materials,
including gemstones and diamonds. We also
sell bespoke jewellery. One of our specialities
is 24-carat jewellery – forged and hardened.
‘I have a lot of great memories of this store.
For example, in 2002 I decided to collaborate
with international designers. I worked with
Konstantin Grcic, Tom Dixon, Alfredo
Häberli, and Ronan and Erwan Bouroullec,
to name just a few. At the launch of their
pieces all of them came to join the private view.
It was great to have all those great designers
at the same place. The echo in the media was
enormous. It was something like a restart
of our business and a very infuential change
in modern jewellery.’
Biegel, Börsenplatz 13-15, 60313 Frankfurt,
+49 (0)69 285908, biegel.biz
‘I am the sole proprietor of Biegel and also
the designer. We are a small team of just four,
including myself. Right now we are celebrating
our 50th anniversary.
‘Our store is located in one of only a few
old buildings that remain in the centre of
Frankfurt. It is right opposite the German
stock market, which is also an old building
of the same style. The whole area is quite
authentic and unique in Frankfurt. Since the
store opened, the square itself has not changed
a lot, because the buildings mentioned are
listed. But the surrounding area has become
extremely vivid and very dynamic.
‘The shop has six-metre-high ceilings,
which is why we have a mezzanine level.
Manufacturing, presentation, service and
consulting, as well as sales, are all under one
roof. This makes our shop unique – at least
Marc-Jens Biegel is the second generation of his family to take the reins at
fne jewellery company Biegel, founded in 1964. Biegel’s close-knit team of
goldsmiths creates both bespoke jewellery and luxurious ready-to-wear pieces.
Ximena Daneri spoke to the designer in the frm’s Frankfurt fagship store
Baden Baden · Berlin · düsseldorf · frankfurt · Garmisch-Partenkirchen
hamBurG · innsBruck · kitzBühel · köln · münchen · new York · salzBurG
st. moritz · stuttGart · sYlt · zermatt · zürich
bogner.com
42 | FEATURES
Sustainable
SHOP | 43
Opposite: Isabell de Hillerin autumn/winter 2014/15/89 94
Across Germany, niche brands are creating
a new future for luxury fashion, based on
craftsmanship, innovation, sustainability and
quality. These ethical creations are a world
away from the stereotypes of eco-friendly
fashion – no lumpy silhouettes, sackcloth
or dangling trinkets here. Instead, innovative
materials, carefully sourced accessories
and sleek lines ofer sustainable style.
Germany has a long history of green
consumption, with avid recyclers, clean energy
campaigners and Fair Trade fans across the
country, but it’s only recently that the country’s
eco attitude has transferred into the fashion
world. ‘There are nearly as many organic food
shops in Germany as there are supermarkets.
Sustainability has become normal now,
so naturally it’s impacting fashion,’ says
designer Isabell de Hillerin.
While innovative eco design is now
coming to the forefront, Germany already has
a strong foundation in natural textiles. In the
70s, eco-pioneers including Hessnatur, Disana
and Engel founded the International Verband
der Naturtextilwirtschaft (International
Association of Natural Textile Industry or
IVN), which helped to develop the Global
Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) for fabrics,
now frequently seen on labels.
Germany’s well-established green scene continues to encourage fashion design that combines elegance with an eco-friendly attitude, reports Gwyneth Holland
Style
44 | FEATURES
Above (from top): Ethical Fashion Show Berlin, July 2014; Isabell de Hillerin autumn/winter 2014/15
Eco designers have been working for
years, to little fanfare, but much of the current
interest in sustainable fashion is due to growing
awareness of the real cost of cheap fast fashion.
The tragic collapse of the Rana Plaza factory
in Bangladesh in 2013 focused attention
on the problems created by the demand for
cheap clothes. Since then, many consumers
have been attempting to be more responsible
about the clothes they purchase.
Launched in 2009, sustainable fashion
initiatives Greenshowroom and Ethical
Fashion Show Berlin help designers to spread
the message of sustainable style. The fairs
began with just 16 labels and now show over
120. ‘Today, there is an enormous interest
in eco-fashion from all sides, including
consumers, press, politicians, stakeholders,
designers and companies,’ says
Greenshowroom founder Magdalena Schafrin.
Placing their ethical or eco standards
upfront isn’t how the new sustainable designers
like to work – the sustainable aspect is built
into the garments, naturally and seamlessly.
Designers promote the quality of their
materials, the elegance of their designs and
the originality of their collections – which all
just happen to be sustainable. ‘We don’t
push the sustainable aspect,’ says de Hillerin.
‘We want people to buy pieces because they
look and feel good. If we treat sustainability
in this way, it normalises sustainable fashion.’
Brands such as Folkdays build
sustainability into their ofer through ethical
sourcing. The Folkdays team works with
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Above (clockwise from lef): Folkdays golden leaves earrings; luxaa autumn/winter 2014/15; Folkdays ikat weaver in cambodia; Folkdays cushion cover
specialist craftspeople in developing countries
to bring their high-quality creations to the
European market. But this is no charity project
– Folkdays’ luxurious products include the
softest blankets from Bolivia and Peru, the
best cashmere from Kashmir and Nepal, silver
jewellery made in Thai villages for generations
and ikat patterns made by expert weavers
in Cambodia. Each product is made using
indigenous materials and natural colours,
and comes with fascinating provenance.
‘There’s a strong movement towards
things that have history and meaning,’ says
Lisa Jaspers, co-founder of Folkdays. ‘More
people want originality, to feel like they’re
not wearing the same as everyone else,
and handicrafts are original by defnition.’
SHOP | 47
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Sustainable fashion’s sense of originality
is not just rooted in traditional skills but is
also about innovative approaches to clothes.
Berlin-based label Luxaa uses high-tech
fabrics such as Tyvek (which is 100%
recyclable) to create a very modern kind of
eco-luxe. ‘Innovative materials and techniques,
combined with sustainability, functionality
and longevity, are my greatest inspiration,’ says
Luxaa founder and designer Anne Trautwein.
The niche eco-brands coming out of Germany
today are revealing a new kind of luxury – one
based not on big brand names or ‘It’ bags, but
on provenance, quality and conscience. ‘For
a lot of people, luxury is increasingly about
products made in good conditions, with great
craftsmanship,’ says de Hillerin. Trautwein
adds that people are now buying ‘fewer, better
things’ and expect their purchases to be
beautiful, great quality and sustainable. She
believes that the rise of conscious consumption
means that ‘sustainable luxury products
are increasingly becoming status symbols.’
The impact of green and ethical designers
goes beyond their own stores and customers –
they’re also showing big brands how sustainable
fashion can be done stylishly and luxuriously.
Schafrin notes the growing infuence of
sustainable designers on mainstream fashion.
‘The change is visible in the conventional
fashion labels implementing serious sustainability
initiatives or the fact that nearly all corporations
nowadays have CSR departments. All in all,
eco fashion is on a path towards the mass
market – which is a great achievement.’
isabelldehillerin.com, folkdays.com, luxaa.de
Ethical designers are showing big brands that sustainable fashion can be stylish and luxurious
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Munich-based Oska has gone from strength to strength thanks to its refreshing approach to womenswear.
Josh Sims talks to founder Helmut Bayer about his recipe for success
The
Cool
New
50 | FEATURES
Above (from lef): Oska founder Helmut Bayer; the brand’s autumn/winter 2014/15 collection (also shown on previous page)
It is a €25m business with some 70 stores
around the world. Yet German clothing
company Oska fies decidedly under the radar,
having won a cult following among women
to whom most of the fashion world pays
little regard. ‘I’d say our average customer is
50 upwards – and when you’re that age it’s
not easy to fnd beautiful clothes that don’t
make you look silly, ancient or too young,’
says Helmut Bayer, who founded Oska in
1997 with a couple of partners (long since
bought out) and who now runs the company,
with colleague Stefanie Schmitz as designer.
‘That puts us in a particular niche.’
It’s one Bayer has been careful to cultivate,
perhaps chiefy through a close understanding
of his customer: the newly liberated late
middle-aged woman, free of children,
perhaps, Bayer half-jokes, divorced and free
of husbands, reborn and ‘ready to start a new
life’, as he puts it. ‘I’ve seen that pattern with
women I know closely over and over. Women
go through far more fundamental changes in
their lives than men, and they get a very clear
idea about what they want in life.’
And, in seems, in the way they dress.
No Oska garment, for example, has any exterior
branding. ‘You might love it when you’re young
– look at Abercrombie & Fitch – but when you
get to a certain age you don’t want to buy into
a brand but to express your own personality,’
says Bayer. ‘The older you get, the more
individual you get, the more opinionated you
get.’ Similarly, seasonal shifts in style are not
what it’s about either. If you want catwalk
fashion, go elsewhere: each season at Oska is,
as Bayer puts it, ‘not a new book but a new
chapter for the on-going book’.
Each collection is based frst and foremost
on fabrics: their colour, texture and drape.
Oska works closely with Pro Len, its main
manufacturer in Prostejov in the Czech
Republic; not only does the region have its own
textiles heritage, but its position allows it to
source materials that manufacturers in other
parts of Europe struggle to fnd, especially
high-quality leather, hemp and silk. Oska also
has its own dedicated dyeing works there, which
allows for complex garment-dyeing (resulting
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52 | FEATURES
time) and makes what it does very hard to copy.
Consequently, Bayer concedes, Oska’s are not
the cheapest of clothes – but, he implies, you
get what you pay for.
Certainly, although Bayer insists his
Munich-based company is a fashion business,
much of Oska’s approach seems to cut
against the usual industry grain. ‘It’s quite
an old-fashioned approach to making clothes,
I suppose, and certainly very unlike the high-
street volume brands of today,’ says the one-
time fashion sales agency rep, who started the
company because he’d grown despondent over
the poor quality of the clothing he was expected
to sell. ‘Each collection just grows out of the
fabric. Really, the power in the fashion world
lies with fabric manufacturers, not designers.
You don’t get quality clothing out of bad fabric
any more than you get a quality car out of bad
steel. The fabric is crucial to how a garment can
be cut, how it washes, how it ages. If the clothes
are German in any sense, it’s in the emphasis
on quality and reliability.’
Bayer also likes his clothing to last from
the standpoint of both ethics (‘I couldn’t
produce in Bangladesh, for example – I couldn’t
live with myself,’ he says) and sustainability,
although it is not something he often stresses.
‘Buying “green” is only moving forward a little.
The bottom line is that actually we should
just buy less. We shouldn’t buy it at all. But
who wants to hear that? And it’s not great for
business either,’ he laughs.
And business is good: although he would
like to double turnover in the next fve years,
as it would make Oska’s necessarily high
development and prototyping costs easier
to absorb, he does expect growth of around
50%, which seems a comfortable aim for
such a smartly targeted company. In the
circumstances, one wonders why Bayer hasn’t
tried his successful formula on menswear,
too, beyond the extant capsule collection.
After all, that was the original idea, back when
the company started out being called Oskar.
‘We’ve tried a bit but it doesn’t work as well,’
he says. ‘Men at the same stage in their lives
tend to want very simple designs, to stick
with what they know and buy the same thing
over and over. I’m like that – and I’m in the
fashion business.’
oska.com
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Above (from top): Oska store, munich; Oska designer stefanie schmitz
54 | F E AT U R E S
German porcelain has always been innovative and the country’s top brands remain world leaders, as Stephen Doig discovers
Breakingthe
Mould
Johann Friedrich Böttger is a name that resounds in the world of European porcelain; many sources point to Böttger as the father of contemporary porcelain. It was in the 1700s that the German chemist began experimenting to determine how the material, whose manufacturing process was a closely guarded secret in its native China and Japan, was made. The Meissen company, founded in the city of the same name in 1710, enjoyed the fruits of his labour when it established a business around a product that would become a major German export.
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56 | FEATURES
Above (from top): Meissen porcelain is painted by hand; Meissen Couture Grace foral-embellished dress
German heritage porcelain companies such as Meissen today offer sleek, modern ranges in vivid colours and finishes
Böttger’s legacy can be explored in
Frankfurt’s Porzellan Museum, a section
of the extensive Historisches Museum, but
the city also ofers enticing opportunities to
invest in pieces for the home that are as ftting
in a 21st-century environment as they were
in the homes of the Habsburgs.
It’s perhaps ftting that Meissen’s insignia
shows crossed swords, such was the label’s
protectiveness of its methods. To this day, PH
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strellson.com
StrellSon Store, Skyline plaza,
europa-allee 6, FrankFurt
58 | FEATURES
Above (clockwise from lef): Nymphenburg Mezzetino Commedia dell’Arte fgurine in collaboration with Vivienne Westwood; the brand’s water-powered factory; Nymphenburg Julia Commedia dell’Arte fgurine in collaboration with Christian Lacroix; Nymphenburg kiln
The 21st-century collections from Nymphenburg feature collaborations with star designers alongside traditional skills and artistry
an exacting training programme ensures that
Meissen’s craftspeople work to the highest
standards in their modelling and painting, and
are trained for three years. Meissen’s artisans
devote themselves to pushing the boundaries
of porcelain craft, producing intricate detailing
and richly decorative painting on everything
from tableware to fgurines.
Today’s Meissen oferings have expanded
to encompass collaborations with contemporary
artists, as well as sleek modern ranges and
vivid colour tones and fnishes; politely dainty
porcelain tea sets have been superseded
by gleaming metallic rainbow hues and
architectural lines. In keeping with the label’s
focus on innovation and keeping ahead of the
curve, the house launched a clothing range
last year, under the directorship of Frida
Weyer– the same craft and attention to detail
that applies to Meissen’s porcelain is carried
into the clothing range.
As befts a label whose headquarters are
next door to Munich’s Nymphenburg palace,
Nymphenburg porcelain’s royal connections are
integral to the brand’s identity. Nymphenburg
SHOP | 59
was founded by the Bavarian crown in 1747,
and a strong sense of the past remains essential
to the brand’s operation today. For example,
the equipment in the Nymphenburg factory
is powered by water from the estate, all pieces
are shaped on a potter’s wheel or cast by hand,
and the process of handpainting, decorating
and glazing is painstaking. An original piece of
Nymphenburg porcelain can be distinguished
by the brand’s crest and coat of arms.
While the original skills and artistry of
Nymphenburg remain intact, the company
has moved with the times to include innovative
new ranges and a roster of all-star collaborators
includes Karl Lagerfeld, Miuccia Prada and
Vivienne Westwood. The brand hasn’t been
precious about breathing new life into its pieces,
from the quirky Animal Bowls range, where
3D creatures roam across plates and dishes,
to porcelain skulls decorated with insects and
fowers – so long-standing technique and slick
design can sit side-by-side on your shelves
meissen.com,
nymphenburg.com
globalblue.com
60 | EXPER IENCE
Table TalkFrankfurt’s fnest restaurants
ofer menus that embrace an array
of infuences, distinctive dining
rooms and exemplary levels of
service. Verity Hogan peruses the
menus of some of the city’s best
Frankfurt’s cosmopolitan reputation has
helped the city create a suitably eclectic
restaurant scene. this is not a new development
for Germany. German cuisine is characterised
by its heartiness and emphasis on meat and
potatoes, and there is a growing interest in
organic food across the country, but Germany
has always had a varied and contrasting
national cuisine, with each region boasting
its own specialities. South-west Germany
has long been infuenced by French cuisine
while traditional dishes such as sauerkraut
are prepared slightly diferently in this area.
Such diverse infuences, combined with
the tastes and favours brought by the seven
million Frankfurt residents who originate
from outside Germany, have had a profound
impact on Frankfurt’s restaurant scene. the
eateries located here combine international
favours with traditional German ingredients
and also ofer engaging interiors and
intriguing concepts.
SHOP | 61
E m m a m E t z l E r
Emma metzler is set in
the grounds of Frankfurt’s
museum für angewandte
Kunst (museum of applied
art) and this artistic location
is refected in both its décor
and its beautifully presented
cuisine. the restaurant
resembles a blank canvas,
with white walls and picture
windows opening out onto
the well-maintained garden.
the menu is seasonal but
broadly based on French and
south-west German cuisine;
dishes might include Scottish
salmon with a pineapple
and cucumber relish and
tarragon cream, or a rib-eye
steak served with parmesan
potatoes, green asparagus
and Béarnaise sauce.
Emma Metzler,
metzlerpark,
Schaumainkai 17,
60594 Frankfurt,
+49 (0)69 6199 5906,
emma-metzler.com
Leading WomensWear Brands and CoLLeCtions
FrankFurt/main ZeiL 100
Monday Through Thursday 10 aM - 8 pM Friday Through saTurday 10 aM - 9 pM
suLZBaCh/taunus main-taunus-Zentrum
Monday Through Wednesday 9.30 aM - 8 pM Thursday Through saTurday 9.30 aM - 10 pM
EXPER IENCE | 63
globalblue.com
S u r f ’ n T u r f
An authentic American steakhouse in the heart
of frankfurt, Surf’n Turf reputedly serves the
best steak in Germany. Various juicy and tender
cuts are available, from a classic new York strip
steak to a porterhouse for two. The restaurant’s
dining room refects its relaxed atmosphere
with intimate low lighting, wood panelling
and cabinets flled with wine; note the antlers
providing unusual design accents throughout.
This convivial setting, combined with a well-
edited, delicious menu has attracted a loyal
following among locals and visitors to the city.
Surf’n Turf, Grüneburgweg 95,
60323 frankfurt, +49 (0)69 722122,
mook-group.de/surfnturf
M A x i e e i S e n
Located in one of the city’s most creative
districts, Maxie eisen is named after a 1920s
gangster and serves a menu based around
traditional Jewish cuisine. Pastrami is the
signature dish: American beef brisket cured
with mustard, crushed peppercorns, coriander
seeds and garlic. The range of sides is equally
appealing; choose between matzo ball soup,
herring with horseradish and home-cooked
rosemary french fries. The restaurant’s dining
room is similarly distinctive, featuring claret
and blue walls, accents of bronze stainless steel
and furniture by french designer Jean Prouvé.
Maxie Eisen,
Münchener Strasse 18,
60329 frankfurt,
+49 (0)69 7675 8362,
maxie-eisen.de
M A x o n o n e
Despite its gourmet reputation, Max on one
has a surprisingly relaxed atmosphere to
accompany its fne cuisine. The restaurant’s
menu combines expert culinary skills with
the world’s fnest produce to create dishes
such as suckling pig with pearl barley, celery
and beetroot, and a classic steak tartare. The
open kitchen provides diners with additional
entertainment, while those looking for a more
leisurely experience can choose to dine on the
sofa seating in the lounge.
Max on One,
Jumeirah Hotel, Thurn-und-Taxis-Platz 2,
60313 frankfurt, +49 (0)69 2972 37198,
jumeirah.com
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WertheimVillage.com
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© Wertheim Village 2014 *the former recommended retail price. †Offer valid in participating boutiques.
Guide
GU I DE | 65
SNAP OF THE CITY
Nihicipi enecto ea alignat inctiorio endia et
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Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Frankfurt with
a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from the coolest concept stores to
the city’s must-see museums. Start with SHOP’s highlights before delving
deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For further
helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/frankfurt.
A GlIMPSE OF FRANKFURT
Frankfurt’s cosmopolitan skyscrapers and bustling fnancial institutions provide an intriguing contrast to the city’s more historic buildings
globalblue.com
66 | GUIDE
Frankfurt
TAUNUSSTRASSE
UNTERMAIN
KAI
RE
UT
ER
WE
G
MAINZER LANDSTRASSE
K
AISERSTRASSE
BOCKENHEIMER LANDSTRASSE
GUTLEUTSTRASSE
TAU
NA
SAN
LAG
E G
ALLU
SAN
LAG
E
BA
SE
LER
ST
R.
WILHELM-LEUSCHNER-STRASSE
Continental
Le Meridien
Excelsior
Monopol
Interconti Hotel
Frankfur tIntercontinental
National Hotel
Colour Hotel
Manhatan Hotel
Atlantic Hotel
Savoy Hotel
Roomers Design Hotel
SILVER TOWER
OLD OPERA
TAUNUSANLAGE
FRANKFURTMAIN STATION
ALTE OPER
WESTEND1 The Listener
Discover a carefully edited selection of the world’s
most sought-after designer brands at The Listener
concept store.
Stephanstrasse 1,
60313 Frankfurt,
+49 (0)69 2100 8000,
thelistener.de
featured on page 68
2 Maxie Eisen
Be sure to try the traditional pastrami, herring with
horseradish and home-cooked rosemary French fries
on the menu at Jewish-themed eatery Maxie Eisen.
Münchener Strasse 18,
60329 Frankfurt,
+49 (0)69 7675 8362,
maxie-eisen.de
featured on page 63
3 Oska
Visit Oska’s Frankfurt boutique to invest in long-
lasting, timeless clothing made from the fnest
available fabrics.
Oppenheimer Landstrasse 34,
60596 Frankfurt,
+49 (0)69 6605 5099,
oska-frankfurt.de
featured on page 48
4 Biegel
The modern jewellery on offer at the Biegel boutique
is crafted from a range of precious metals and
materials that include gemstones and diamonds.
Börsenplatz 13-15,
60313 Frankfurt,
+49 (0)69 285908,
biegel.biz
featured on page 40
5 Skagen
Danish design is internationally acclaimed and
Skagen’s newly opened store brings its simple
yet functional aesthetic to Frankfurt.
MyZeil, Zeil 106,
60313 Frankfurt,
+49 (0)69 2097 6961,
skagen.com
featured on page 36
SHOP’S HIGHLIGHTS
HotelU-BahnTrain StationShopping Centre/Mall
page
68
2
SHOP | 67
SCHAUMAINKAI
SACHSENHÄUSER UFER DEUTSCHHERRNUFER
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BLEICHSTRASSE
SEILERSTRASSE LA
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UNTERMAINK AI
MAINK AI SCHÖNE AUSSICHT
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WALTER-KOLB-STRASSE
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BERLINER STR ASSE
BATTONNSTR ASSE
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Fleming's Hotel Frankfur t Main Riverside
Hilton
The WestinGrand
Jumeirah
Hotel Neue Kräme
Spenderhaus Hotel
Hotel am Dom
Hotel Main Plaza
Hotel Fleming Deluxe
Turmhotel
NH Frankfur tCit y-Hotel
Villa Orange
COMMERZBANK
GOETHE HAUS
ST. PAUL'S CHURCH
RÖMER TOWN HALL
FRANKFURT CATHEDRAL
ST. CATHERINE’S CHURCH
LOKALBAHNHOF
WILLY-BRAND PLATZ
DOM / RÖMER
KONSTABLERWACHE
MERIANPLATZ
ESCHENHEIMER TOR
HAUPTWACHE
Place Of Interest Tourist Information
page
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68 | GUIDE
Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer
Am Hauptbahnhof, Kaiserstrasse & Rossmarkt
NIDDASTRASSE
NIDDASTRASSE
NIEDENAU
ZIMM
ERWEG
WESER
STRA
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WESER
STRA
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5K APOTHEKE ●
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Villa Kennedy
Shopping Centre/Mall Hotel
1. The Listener
The Listener’s highly selective approach to product buying has
helped to produce a range with universally high standards of
design and workmanship. A mix of avant-garde international
labels flls the space; the range includes pieces by Comme
des Garçons, Opening Ceremony, Folk, APC and Nudie Jeans.
The store’s interior is as distinctive as its collection, featuring
patterned cement tiles, steel and warm wood accents and a
striking copper-coated counter.
The Listener,
Stephanstrasse 1, 60313 Frankfurt,
+49 (0)69 2100 8000,
thelistener.de
CooLesT ConCepT sTores
1
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Featured In This IssueTrain Station Cafè
2. 2nd Home
If you’re seeking design inspiration, look no further than
Frankfurt’s 2nd Home. The store is designed to look like a
city apartment, separated into different rooms. Each room
showcases a selection of furniture, lighting and accessories
as well as a well-edited range of fashion, art and jewellery.
2nd Home, Vogelsbergstrasse 38,
60316 Frankfurt,
+49 (0)69 4056 4842,
2nd-home.net
3. Arizona-Galerie
One of Frankfurt’s more unusual stores, Arizona-Galerie offers
an eclectic selection of Native American jewellery, handicrafts
and moccasins. The range includes more than 1,000 rings,
earrings and necklaces and over 500 bracelets and pendants,
made from sterling silver, precious stones and leather.
Arizona-Galerie,
Grosse Bockenheimer Strasse 37,
60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 287379,
arizona-galerie.de
* for map go to page 74
3
P.37
70 | GUIDE
Zeil, Neue Kräme, Hasengasse & Braubachstrasse
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Featured In This Issue
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SELECTED STORES
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p.36
FRANKFURT: KAISERSTRASSE 9
P. +49 (0)89.211 010
WWW.BETTENRID.DE
YOUR SPECIALIST FOR RELAXING SLEEP
AND CREATIVE HOME DECORATING IDEAS.
WELCOME TO BETTENRID
72 | GUIDE
Berliner Strasse & Römerberg
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Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer Featured In This Issue
1. Museum für Moderne Kunst
Despite being a relative newcomer in the international modern
art world, MMK has already made a profound impact thanks to
its diverse collection. More than 4,500 works are on display,
all of which have been produced since the 1960s. Expect the
museum’s 40 rooms to feature pieces by Lichtenstein, Warhol,
Cy Twombly and Francis Bacon.
MMK Museum für Moderne Kunst,
Domstrasse 10, 60311 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 2123 0447,
mmk-frankfurt.de
2. Schirn Kunsthalle
The leading exhibition gallery in Frankfurt, Schirn plays host
to shows on a wide variety of themes alongside retrospectives
of individual artists. Past exhibitions have highlighted the work
of Wassily Kandinsky, Henri Matisse and Peter Doig while
upcoming exhibitions include an in-depth look at Andreas
Schulze and Helene Schjerfbeck as well as a show dedicated
to German pop art.
Schirn Kunsthalle,
Römerberg, 60311 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 299 8820,
schirn.de
3. Städel Museum
Founded in 1815, Städel Museum is one of Germany’s oldest
art museums. Its vast collection provides a comprehensive
overview of the last 700 years of art history, featuring works
from the early 14th century to the present day. Collection
highlights include pieces by Botticelli, Rembrandt, Vermeer,
Matisse and Klee.
Städel Museum,
Schaumainkai 63, 60596 Frankfurt,
+49 (0)69 605 0980,
staedelmuseum.de
FranKFurt’S MuSt-viSit MuSeuMS
3
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G o l d e n S w o r d S C l u tC h
MEISSEN COUTURE® BOUTIqUE FRaNkFURT · OpERNplaTz 4 · TElEFON: +49 69 92020575
74 | GUIDE
Grosse Bockenheimer Strasse & Biebergasse
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Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer Featured In This Issue
P.30
P.34
SHOP | 75
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1. Picard
Family-owned leather company Picard has been crafting
high-quality bags since 1920 and has become known for
producing high-end products at surprisingly affordable prices.
The company retains its heritage appeal yet has also adapted
to meet modern demands, extending its range to include
luggage and briefcases as well as creating a premium Made in
Germany collection. Creative types are sure to love the brand’s
regular collaborations with art and cultural organisations –
guaranteed to produce distinctive designs.
Picard, Goethestrasse 14,
60313 Frankfurt,
+49 (0)69 296831,
picard-lederwaren.de
2. Laurèl
Form-fattering cuts, bold prints and vibrant colour palettes
ensure that Laurèl’s womenswear collections always stand
out from the crowd. Head designer Elisabeth Schwaiger
specialises in modern classics, creating pieces that are
feminine and casual enough to work in any urban environment.
Luxury pervades the collections and even the most relaxed
garments feature high-quality materials; expect pieces
incorporating leather, jersey and silk to feature throughout
the collection.
Laurèl,
Kleine Bockenheimer Strasse 18A, 60313 Frankfurt,
+49 (0)69 1337 6390,
laurel.de
3. Charlotte Ehinger-Schwarz
The Charlotte Ehinger-Schwarz brand has more than 135
years of experience in crafting fne jewellery, yet despite this
heritage, its collections are strikingly contemporary. Pieces are
designed to be timeless so they can be passed down through
the generations, and are crafted from high-end materials such
as silver, gold, platinum and pearls. Customise your Charlotte
piece by making use of the range’s interchangeable designs –
every item can be taken apart and reassembled as you wish.
Charlotte Ehinger-Schwarz,
Goethestrasse 18, 60313 Frankfurt,
+49 (0)69 9291 9182,
charlotte.de
BESt ShoPS on GoEthEStraSSE1
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P.38
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Outletcity Metzingen,
Reutlinger Strasse 63,
72555 Metzingen,
+49 (0)7123 925326,
outletcity.com
Opening times
Monday-Friday:
10am-8pm
Saturday: 9am-8pm
(Hugo Boss 8am-8pm)
Outletcity Metzingen
PeRFect Day
12pm
take a break at the
Keim bakery to enjoy
cofee and cake or a
freshly made sandwich.
6pm
end your trip at
hard-wearing luggage
specialist Samsonite.
10am
Start your day perusing
the sportswear collection
on ofer at Peak
Performance; the label
is known for combining
functionality and style.
2pm
Hugo Boss collections
strike the perfect
balance between
fashion and function.
HOW tOGet tHeRe
enter Reutlinger Strasse
63, 72555 Metzingen
on your satellite
navigation system.
take the a5 out of
Frankfurt before joining
the a8 to Metzingen.
take the exit toward
Metzingen (B312)
and take the L378a
to Reutlinger Strasse.
Outletcity Metzingen is
clearly signposted when
you arrive in the town.
4pm
Diane von Furstenberg
produces pieces that
radiate elegance –
the printed wrap dress is
a wardrobe classic.
SHOP | 77
Zweibrücken
The Style Outlets,
Londoner Bogen 10-90,
66842 Zweibrücken,
+49 (0)6332 99390,
thestyleoutlets.com
Opening times
Monday-Saturday:
10am-7pm
Sundays and public
holidays: closed
Zweibrücken The Style Outlets
10am
Start your day by
admiring the high
quality and sophisticated
craftsmanship displayed
by Italian label Cerruti.
12pm
enjoy a traditional
German meal made
from the freshest
available produce at
La Place Restaurant.
3pm
With its selection of high
quality tableware, gifts
and lifestyle accessories,
Villeroy & Boch is the
perfect place to visit if
you’re seeking elegant
homeware. Opt for
the classica range for
timeless tableware.
2pm
Petit Bateau’s
childrenswear collections
are sure to brighten up
your afternoon with
their whimsical designs
and youthful take on
French fashion. 5pm
end your day at footwear
boutique Peter Kaiser.
the designer is known
for combining heritage
manufacturing with
contemporary design.
expect a diverse
collection incorporating
fne materials such as
high-quality leather,
soft suede and the most
prestigious fabrics.
HOW tOGet tHeRe
By train
trains run from
Saarbrücken to
Zweibrücken station.
Visitors can then catch a
bus to the Style Outlets.
By bus
Buses run from
Zweibrücken to the
Style Outlets every
hour from Monday
to Saturday.
By car
From Frankfurt, take
the a8 motorway and
then exit 34, which is
signposted to the airport.
the journey takes
around 90 minutes.
PeRFect Day
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Wertheim Village
Wertheim Village, just 40 minutes from
frankfurt city centre, is perfectly located
for locals and international visitors alike.
the Village’s design refects its tranquil
surroundings, with traditional scallop-
tiled roofng and turrets that echo nearby
vineyard-clad halls and local villages.
the Village plays host to more than 110
designer boutiques from both German and
international labels, all of which ofer up to
60% savings on normal retail prices.
Wertheim Village,
almosenberg, 97887 Wertheim,
+49 (0)9342 919 9100,
wertheimvillage.com,
chicoutletshopping.com
Opening times
Monday-Saturday: 10am-8pm
Sundays and public holidays: closed
for special opening times please visit
the website
Five-star services
The village ofers a range of VIP
services including:
• free Wifi
• Dog kennels
• a personal shopper (on request)
• tourist information
• a children’s playground
Shopping Packages
Various packages are available at the
Village. Packages can be booked via
the Village’s website and services
can include:
• return tickets from central frankfurt
to the village on the Shopping
express® luxury coach
• a €25 Wertheim Village Shopping
card to be spent at a boutique of your
choice at the Village
• an exclusive gift
• Lunch with small soft drink at
La Piazza restaurant at the Village
DON’t MiSS…
SHOP | 79
Perfect Day
Verity Hogan, SHOP’s
city guide and lifestyle
editor, describes
her perfect day at
Wertheim Village
11am
Lagerfeld’s boutique
ofers the complete
ready-to-wear men’s
collection and range of
accessories, all infused
with Karl Lagerfeld’s
signature style.
1pm
Stop for lunch at Prime.
the restaurant serves
a range of high-quality
dishes including burgers,
fresh salads and daily
specials, served in an
urban-chic environment.
3pm
Steif’s trademark
ear button makes its
high-quality teddy bears
instantly recognisable.
the Steif range also
includes dogs, cats
and pigs.
6pm
end your day
by admiring the
craftsmanship displayed
in Bally’s exquisite
leather goods collection.
Pieces ofer the highest
quality as well as
contemporary styling.
HOW tOGet tHere
By car
from frankfurt head
to Würzberg on the
a3. take exit 66
signposted Wertheim/
Lengfurt. the drive
takes approximately 50
minutes from frankfurt
city centre.
By train
regular trains run to
Wertheim town from
frankfurt’s central
station, Nuremberg
and Würzberg. then
take the free shuttle
bus to Wertheim
Village from Monday
to Saturday. collect
your ticket from the
tourist information ofce
in Wertheim town.
By Shopping Express
the Shopping express®
luxury coach service
takes visitors from
frankfurt to Wertheim
Village and back,
departing from the city’s
main train station, 20B,
bus stops 7-9, from
Monday to Saturday.
for further information
and to book, visit
chicoutletshopping.com.
10am
Start your day at
German label Drykorn.
the brand is known for
setting the trends; expect
bright colours, bold
prints and a fnish of the
highest quality.
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INSIDER TIP
Check out the FRA Airport
app to fnd out about
fight times, shopping
opportunities and parking
facilities before you travel.
Download it free by
scanning the QR code
Use your smartphone’s QR code reader to link to the helpful websites
below when on the go
1 42 53 6
1. Regional Tourist Ofce
Tourismus + Congress GmbH
Kaiserstrasse 56
60329 Frankfurt
frankfurt-tourismus.de
2. Federal Foreign Ofce
Switchboard (24-hour
service): +49 (0)30 18170
Help Desk (Mon-Fri: 9am-
3pm): +49 (0)30 1817 2000
3. Transportation Maps
For public transport
timetables and tickets head
to rmv.de or mobil.rmv.de/
mobile/portal; alternatively
you can scan the QR code
4. Deutsche Bahn
If you intend to travel by train
go to the bahn.de website or
scan the QR code for more
information
5. Taxi
To fnd a local taxi, scan the QR
code or use the website taxi.de
6. Global Blue Online
For the most up-to-date
information on shops,
museums, galleries and
restaurants in Germany,
go to globalblue.com or
scan the QR code
EMERGENCY SERVICES
Emergency: 112
(ambulance and fre);
110 (police)
Doctor: +49 (0)116117
(emergency service, weekends
and public holidays)
Lost Or Stolen Cards:
+49 (0)116116
(immediate blocking of lost/
stolen debit/credit cards)
USEFUL PHRASES
Hello ∙ Hallo/Guten Tag
Thank you ∙ Danke schön
Please ∙ Bitte
I would like... ∙ Ich möchte...
Goodbye ∙ Auf Wiedersehen
How much is...? ∙ Wieviel
kostet...?
Can I have a receipt
please? ∙ Darf ich bitte eine
Quittung haben?
Essential Information
It’s more fun, when it’s tax-free!
Made in Germany
Life tastes great.
Grand Gourmet
Knife set 5 pieces
instead of 384,75* 289,–
*sum of the prices
Cookware set 4 pieces
instead of 496,95* 399,–
Premium OneCromargan®
WMF StoresFrankfurtwww.wmf.de/flialen
Schillerstraße 2, Tel. 069/282382
Kaiserstraße 15, Tel. 069/284474
Zeil 106, Tel. 069/13886872
82 | GUIDE
Eat
Discover Frankfurt’s
traditional cuisine in one
of the city’s rustic apple
wine bars. Grüne sosse
(green sauce), served
alongside apple wine in a
ribbed glass or stoneware
jug, is a speciality. See
The historical city centre around Römerberg features
magnifcent half-timbered homes.
Goethe-Haus, Grosser Hirschgraben 23- 25,
60311 Frankfurt,
+49 (0)69 138800,
goethehaus-frankfurt.de
Eat, See, Do
Tourismus + Congress
Frankfurt am Main,
Römerberg 27,
60311 Frankfurt,
+49 (0)69 2123 8800,
frankfurt-tourismus.de
Do
Stroll down the Zeil,
Frankfurt’s most prestigious
shopping boulevard, home
to department stores and
specialist shops as well
as the enduringly popular
MyZeil shopping centre.
If you only have a short time to spend in Frankfurt, the city’s tourist board
has picked its top three attractions around the city.
globalblue.com
84 | GUIDE
Tifany & Co
Few women can resist the allure of
Tifany jewellery. Founded in New York
in 1837, Tifany is one of the world’s
most respected jewellery makers and has
always been at the forefront of design
developments. The Tifany design
team, committed to stunning, luxurious
jewellery, has created pioneering pieces
inspired by modern art and introduced
unusual precious metals and gems to
the range.
Dulce
A box of very good chocolates is always
welcome as a souvenir or gift. The Dulce
chocolate bar uses only 100% natural
ingredients to produce its range of mouth-
watering sweet treats. The company is
meticulous about sourcing the highest-
quality ingredients, such as Alphonso
mango puree from southern India and
Sicilian lemons, ensuring that all Dulce
chocolates, conserves, ice creams and
sorbets taste truly delicious.
FTC Cashmere
Beautiful cashmere is a winter wardrobe
staple, being both snug and stylish – and
ideal for staying comfortable on long
haul fights. FTC Cashmere designs
knitwear that’s not only well-made but
also ethically sourced. Company owners
Jutta and Andreas Knezovic work closely
with farmers to ensure the highest
environmental and ethical standards,
resulting in wonderful cashmere knits
that are a joy to wear.
After every great holiday comes the
fight home, but that doesn’t mean your
shopping trip should be over when you
reach the airport. At Frankfurt Airport,
you’ll fnd the best names in German
fashion and accessories. If you’re looking
for gifts, souvenirs or a new pair of
sunglasses from a label that you won’t
fnd at home, the airport’s boutiques
are sure to fll the gaps in your suitcase.
Frankfurt Airport also has an enticing
variety of food and drink options.
Frankfurt Airport
globalblue.com
ecco.com
ECCO Store Frankfurt – Palais Quart ier Frankfurt – Zei l 106–110 - +49 (0) 69 21935555ECCO Store Wiesbaden – Marktstrasse 17-19 - +49 (0) 611 34196434ECCO Store Mainz – Stadthausstrasse 6 - +49 (0) 6131 1434304ECCO Store Heidelberg – Hauptstrasse 65 - +49 (0) 6221 4185080ECCO Outlet Wertheim – Wertheim Vi l lage – Almosenberg - +49 (0) 9342 8593005ECCO Outlet Zweibrücken – Zweibrücken The Style Outlets – Londoner Bogen 10-90 +49 (0) 6332 4811982
SCANDINAVIAN DESIGN
for EVERYONE
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Frankfurt Airport Terminal 2 Hall D, Level 3, Airside
Frankfurt Airport Terminal 1Hall B, Level 2, Landside & Airside
Hall AHall B
AC
B
Hall C
i i
To Terminal 1
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1 22 77 66 88109
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Frankfurt Airport:
Terminal 1, Level 2, Hall B,
Landside
Terminal 1, Level 2, Hall B,
afer security control
Terminal 2, Level 3, Hall D,
Landside
Terminal 2, Level 3, Hall D,
afer security control
Terminal 2, Level 3, Hall A,
afer security control
Landside
Check-In Area
Security Control
Global Blue Refund Ofce
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Translations
89
Экологический тренд в Германии все активнее влияет на моду, вдохновляя дизайнеров на творческое соединение стиля и заботы об окружающей среде, - рассказывает Гвинет Холланд
Нишевые бренды Германии открывают новые перспективы развития роскошной моды: теперь во главе угла технологические новации, устойчивость, качество и внимание к народному мастерству. Все это весьма далеко от стереотипов об экологичной моде: никаких мешковатых силуэтов, дерюги или неуместного декора. Напротив, в основе нового эко-тренда в моде - инновационные ткани, проработанные аксессуары и изящные силуэты.
В Германии активно работает много сторонников зеленого потребления – специалисты по вторичному использованию и чистой энергии, энтузиасты справедливой торговли пропагандируют свои идеи по всей стране. При этом на модный мир этот
42: Sustainable Style
Идеальное Оформление
РусскИй ПеРевОдпроцесс начал влиять сравнительно недавно. «Сейчас в Германии, пожалуй, магазины органических продуктов не уступают по количеству обычным супермаркетам. Экологическая осознанность стала нормой, и вполне естественно, что модный мир не желает оставаться в стороне», - размышляет дизайнер Изабель де Хиллерин.
В то же время в Германии давно готов фундамент для продвижения ответственных идей в моде: это экологически чистые ткани. В 1970-е годы эко-пионеры Hessnatur, Disana и Engel основали Международный союз производителей натуральных тканей (International Verband der Naturtextilwirtschaf – IVN). Эта организация выработала и зафиксировала Мировой стандарт органического текстиля (GOTS), и теперь соответствующую отметку ставят на ярлыки, если одежда сшита из сертифицированного материала.
Эко-дизайнеры, конечно, работают далеко не первый год, просто они не всегда громко рекламируют свою деятельность. Но именно сейчас отмечается рост интереса к экологичному потреблению, и это обусловлено осознанием реальной стоимости дешевой и быстрой моды. Трагедия на фабрике Rana Plaza в Бангладеше в 2013 году привлекла внимание к проблемам, связанным с повышенным спросом на дешевые вещи. С тех пор многие покупатели пытаются более ответственно подходить к выбору одежды.
В 2009 году появились проекты Greenshowroom и Ethical Fashion Show Berlin, призванные помочь дизайнерам распространять принципы устойчивого стиля. Поначалу в этих ярмарках участвовало всего 16 брендов, а теперь их уже более 120. «Сегодня существует огромный интерес к эко-моде со всех сторон – покупателей, прессы, политиков, инвесторов, дизайнеров и компаний», - утверждает основатель Greenshowroom Магдалена Шафрин.
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Дизайнеры не очень любят выставлять напоказ свои этические принципы. Им больше по душе, когда эти аспекты органично встроены в их продукцию: качество материалов, элегантность моделей, оригинальность коллекций – и так уж случилось, что еще и устойчивость. «Мы не педалируем экологическую тему, - подчеркивает де Хиллерин. – Важно, чтобы люди покупали вещи из-за стиля и удобства. А когда мы представляем наши идеи в такой форме, то экологическая осознанность воспринимается практически как норма».
Бренд Folkday пошел по другому пути: для них устойчивость означает этичность в производстве. Команда марки сотрудничает с ремесленниками в развивающихся странах и привозит их работы на европейский рынок. Не стоит путать это с благотворительностью: под маркой Folkday могут продаваться исключительно качественные и роскошные вещи, как, например, мягкие одеяла из Боливии и Перу, прекрасный кашемир из Кашмира и Непала, серебряные украшения из деревень Таиланда и плетеные ткани икат из Камбоджи. Все это производится исключительно из местных материалов с использованием натуральных красителей.
Отдельное удовольствие – знакомиться с историей и происхождением каждого предмета. «Вещи со смыслом становятся все более популярными, - считает Лиза Джаспер, со-основатель Folkday. – Все больше людей хотят быть оригинальными и знать, что они носят не то же самое, что и все остальные. А ручное творчество – особенное по определению».
Эта неповторимость, присущая эко-моде, связана не только с традиционными ремеслами, но и с использованием инновационных подходов к производству. Например, берлинская марка Luxaa шьет свои вещи исключительно из высокотехнологичных тканей: тайвек, в частности, на 100% пригоден для переработки. И это соответствует созвучным времени представлениям об эко-роскоши: «Меня по-настоящему вдохновляют инновационные материалы
и техники, в сочетании с экологичностью, функциональностью и долговечностью», - делится основатель и дизайнер Luxaa Анне Траутвейн.
Нишевые эко-бренды Германии открывают новый вид роскошного потребления. И на этот раз дело не в громких названиях или It-bags, а в надежности, качестве и осознанности. «Для многих людей роскошь теперь связана с хорошими условиями производства и высочайшим стандартом качества», - говорит де Хиллерин. А Траутвейн, в свою очередь, заметила, что люди теперь покупают меньше вещей, но уделяют больше внимания их качеству. С этой точки зрения, важнее, чтобы покупки были красивыми, качественными и уместными с экологических позиций. По ее словам, рост осознанного потребления означает, что «эко-роскошь становится символом статуса».
Таким образом, сфера влияния «зеленых» дизайнеров простирается и за пределами собственных магазинов и общения со своими покупателями. Они успешно показывают крупным брендом, что устойчивая мода может ассоциироваться с хорошим вкусом и роскошью. Шафрин тоже отмечает влияние эко-дизайнеров на мейнстрим: «Эта перемена становится очевидна, когда известные лейблы начинают поддерживать экологические инициативы. Кроме того, почти все большие компании сегодня обзавелись отделом корпоративной ответственности. Так что эко-мода начала покорять масс-маркет, а значит, она на пути к большим победам».isabelldehillerin.com, folkdays.com, luxaa.de
Благодаря оригинальному подходу к созданию женской одежды мюнхенский бренд Oska приобрел широкую популярность. Джош Симс попытался узнать секрет успеха у основателя компании – Гельмута Баера
48: The New Cool
Король Антимоды
91
Немецкий бренд Oska насчитывает более 70 магазинов по всему миру, а его оценочная стоимость превышает 25 млн. евро. При этом политика компании в отношении выпускаемой продукции остается неизменной и ориентируется преимущественно на тех, кого модная индустрия обычно старается обойти стороной. «Я бы сказал, что средний возраст наших покупателей превышает 50 лет, а ведь это именно тот возраст, когда так непросто найти одежду, которая не выглядит глупо, старомодно или слишком вызывающе», – говорит Гельмут Баер. Компанию Oska он основал в сотрудничестве со своими партнерами в 1997 году, однако уже давно успел ее выкупить, и сейчас управляет ей вместе со своей коллегой дизайнером – Стефани Шмитц.
Глубокое понимание нужд покупателей позволило Баеру занять определенную нишу на рынке: его клиентки – женщины старше среднего возраста, не обремененные заботой о детях или муже, одним словом, свободные и «готовые начать новую жизнь, – шутит дизайнер. – Я очень часто видел
такой тип среди моих знакомых. В жизни женщин происходит довольно много фундаментальных перемен, намного больше, чем у мужчин, поэтому женщины всегда имеют четкое представление о том, чего они хотят».
Это заметно по тому как они одеваются. Одежда Oska, к примеру, не имеет наружных этикеток с названием бренда. «Вам может это нравится когда вы молодые – взгляниете на Abercrombie & Fitch, – но когда вы становитесь старше, вам хочется скорее не демонстрировать чей-то бренд, а выражать свою индивидуальность, – говорит Баер. – Чем больше возраст, тем сложнее ваша индивидуальность и тем выше требования». Точно так же дело обстоит и с сезонными изменениями в коллекциях. Если вы гонитесь за высокой модой, то найти ее не проблема. Что касается Oska, то каждый новый сезон здесь, как любит говорить Баер, «не новая книга, но новая глава одной большой книги».
Главным элементом каждой коллекции в первую очередь являются ткани во всем их разнообразии цвета, текстуры и драпировки. Oska тесно сотрудничает с фабрикой Pro Len, расположенной в чешском городе Простеёв. Этот регион всегда славился производством текстиля, к тому же удобное географическое положение позволяет с легкостью достать необходимое сырье, а именно качественную кожу, коноплю и шелк. Здесь же расположена красильная фабрика Oska, позволяющая осуществлять сложное окрашивание тканей, в результате чего оттенки получаются более насыщенными и долго не выцветают. Баер соглашается с тем, что одежда Oska не из дешевых, но, в то же время, это означает, что вы получите именно то, за что платите.
Хотя Баер и настаивает, что его компания работает в рамках модного бизнеса, тем не менее, фирменный подход похоже идет в разрез с определенными традициями индустрии. «Это довольно старомодный подход к созданию одежды, я полагаю, и, конечно он сильно отличается от политики современных модных брендов», – говорит дизайнер. Одно время
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Качество немецкого фарфора никогда не подлежало сомнению. Стивен Дойг убедился, что ведущие производители Германии остаются лидерами мирового уровня
История европейского фарфора тесно связана с именем Иоганн Фридрих Беттгер: именно этого химика, родом из Германии, многие источники считают отцом «хрупкого золота». В начале 18 века он начал проводить многочисленные эксперименты, стараясь вывести формулу этого материала, поскольку в Китае и Японии детали производственного процесса хранились в строжайшем секрете. Плоды его труда пожинала компания Meissen, основанная в городе Майсен в 1710 году. Все свое внимание она сосредоточила вокруг этого нового продукта, который вскоре стал одной из основных статей немецкого экспорта.
Наследие самого Беттгера можно рассмотреть во франкфуртском Музее фарфора (Porzellan Museum), подразделении Исторического музея. Но не отказывайте себе в удовольствие приобрести более современные образцы старинного искусства в качестве сувениров. Причем в магазинах Франкфурта можно найти как копии фарфоровой утвари из дома Габсбургов, так и вещи в духе 21 века.
Символично, что на эмблеме Meissen изображены скрещенные мечи: это напоминание о том, как тщательно компания защищала свой эксклюзивный метод производства. Серьезная программа
54: Breaking The Mould
Преображая традициюему пришлось работать представителем в агентстве по продаже модной одежды, качество которой оставляло желать лучшего, настолько, что он решил основать свое дело. «Каждая коллекция начинается с выбора ткани. На самом деле власть мира моды принадлежит не дизайнерам, а производителям ткани. Невозможно сделать качественную одежду из плохой ткани, так же как и нельзя собрать качественную машину из дешевой стали. Именно от ткани зависит то, как одежда будет сидеть, как будет стираться и как изнашиваться. А если речь идет о немецкой одежде, то качество и надежность должны быть бескомпромиссными».
Кроме того, принципиально важным для дизайнера являются такие понятия, как экологичность и этичность производства: «Я ни в коем случае не позволил бы себе размещать производство, например, в Бангладаше, – говорит он, – иначе я потерял бы к себе уважение». При этом дизайнер отмечает что «покупка экологичных вещей это лишь первый шаг. На самом деле нам нужно просто делать меньше покупок. А в идеале и вовсе ничего не покупать. Но кому это понравится? Да и бизнес от этого вряд ли станет прибыльнее», – улыбаясь, говорит Баер.
И все же бизнес идет не плохо. Хотя он и мечтает о том, чтобы удвоить прибыль в следующие пять лет, что позволило бы покрыть расходы на модернизацию и изготовление макетов, ожидаемое увеличение доходов на 50% уже является довольно солидной цифрой для такой компании. Многим даже может показаться странным почему Баер не применит свою успешную формулу к мужской одежде. Однако все не так просто, как кажется на первый взгляд. «Мы пытались начать выпускать мужскую линию, но позитивного результата не увидели, – говорит он. – Мужчины старшего возраста предпочитают носить максимально простые вещи и раз за разом покупают что-то одно, проверенное и хорошо им знакомое. Я и сам такой, хотя работаю в модном бизнесе».oska.com
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Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 270,000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира.Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям.
1. В магазинеГде бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue и сохораните чеки.
2. При выездеВозвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов.
Контакты:[email protected]+421 232 111 111Потратьте минимум €25 и сэкономьте до 14.5% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму.
86: When You Shop The World,
Shop Tax Free
Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с tax free
подготовки мастеров и в наши дни гарантирует высочайшие стандарты лепки и росписи, а каждый сотрудник обязательно проходит трехлетнее обучение. А затем, уже в процессе работы, профессионалы Meissen стремятся постоянно расширять возможности своего ремесла. Это находит свое отражение и в изысканной отделке, и в богато декорированной росписи столовой посуды, фигурок и других произведений.
В творческих поисках Meissen не ограничивает себя и сотрудничает с современными художниками. В результате выходят стильные коллекции в духе 21 века с живой цветовой палитрой и интересной отделкой. Изысканные чайные сервизы, например, приобрели переливающиеся металлические оттенки и архитектурные прямые линии.
Следуя традиции опережать ожидания, этот фарфоровый дом в прошлом году выпустил первую коллекцию одежды. Ее дизайнеру Фриде Вейер удалось передать характерное для фарформа Meissen внимание к деталям.
Nymphenburg – еще один крупный игрок на этом поле. Он гордится королевским происхождением, и в этом смысле соседство ее штаб-квартиры с мюнхенским дворцом Нимфенбург символично.
Компания Nymphenburg была основана баварским королем в 1747 году, и любовь к истории прослеживается во всем, что она делает. Например, оборудование на фабрике до сих пор приводится в действие с помощью водяной тяги, а все произведения создаются на гончарном круге или вручную. Процесс росписи, декорирования и глазировки также не претерпел значительных изменений. Оригинальную вещь под маркой Nymphenburg легко узнать по характерной геральдической эмблеме.
Но при этом, даже если технологии, применяемые Nymphenburg, остаются неизменными, это не мешает компании идти в ногу со временем. Так, в ее ассортименте появляются коллекции в современном стиле, в том числе – в результате совместного творчества с Карлом Лагерфельдом, Миуччей Прада и Вивьенн Вествуд. Здесь
не боятся экспериментировать с классикой, отсюда необычные объемные изображения животных на тарелках и чашах в серии Animal Bowl или фарфоровые черепа, декорированные насекомыми и цветами. Все это - прекрасный образец того, как старинные ремесленные техники и актуальный дизайн могут уживаться прямо на ваших полках.meissen.com, nymphenburg.com
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美文翻译
德国成熟的绿色环保体系,推动时尚业将优雅姿态
与生态友好相结合。Gwyneth Holland报道
在德国,以工艺、创新、可持续与品质为本的小众品
牌,正在开创奢侈时尚界的新未来。这些新理念产
品与环保时装的刻板形象相去甚远——没有臃肿的
轮廓、麻布或者四处垂挂的小装饰。取而代之的是
以创新材质、精选配件与时髦线条著称的可持续时
尚。
德国有着悠久的绿色消费传统,从狂热的回收
者、清洁能源活动家到全国各地的公平贸易倡导者,
然而直到近期,该国的环保之风才刮到时尚界。“在
德国,有机食品店的数量几乎与超市同样多。可持续
发展如今已成为日常共识,自然它也开始影响时尚
界,”设计师Isabell de Hillerin表示。
当创新环保设计浮上 水面之 际 ,德国早
已在天然纺 织 品领域奠定了 坚实基础 。在
7 0年代,生 态 先驱He s s n a t u r、D i s a n a与
Enge l成立了I n t e r n a t i on a l Verba nd de r
Naturtextilwirtschaft(国际天然纺织行业协会
或IVN),致力于为面料制定全球有机纺织品标准
(GOTS),这个现今时常可见的标签。
环保设计师们已默默无闻地努力多年,但如
今可持续时尚获得的大部分关注,来自于人们对于
低价快时尚的实际成本的关注。在孟加拉国Rana
Plaza发生的工厂坍塌惨剧,让人们开始关注廉价服
饰需求所引发的问题。从那时起,众多消费者开始试
图为自己的服装购买行为负责。
创立于 2 0 0 9年的可 持 续 时尚先驱项目
Greenshowroom与Eth ica l Fash ion Show
Berlin,致力于帮助设计师传播可持续时尚理念。
42: Sustainable Style
可持续时尚
该展览开始只有16个品牌参加,如今则超过120个。“
今天,社会各界都对绿色时尚投以极大关注,其中
包括消费者、媒体、政客、各利益相关者、设计师与
企业,”Greenshowroom项目的创始人Magdalena
Schafrin表示。
以自身的道德或环保标准马首是瞻,并非新一
代可持续设计师的工作方式——可持续性应被自然
地、天衣无缝地融入服饰中。设计师提高面料的品
质,设计的优雅性与产品系列的独创性——这一切
都是可持续的体现。“我们不强制推广可持续性,”de
Hillerin表示。“我们希望人们购买让他们看起来与
感觉良好的产品。如果我们能这样对待可持续性,
就能发展出普适的可持续时尚。”
Folkdays等品牌通过道德采购将可持续性融
入生产。Folkdays团队与发展中国家的职业工匠合
作,将高品质成品引入欧洲市场。然而这并非慈善项
目——Folkdays的奢华产品线包括来自玻利维亚和
秘鲁的软毯,克什米尔和尼泊尔的顶级羊绒,来自泰
国村庄传承数代的银饰,与柬埔寨专业编织者制造
的纱线扎染织物。每件产品都使用当地素材制成,
都有着自然的配色与迷人的原产地。
“追求富有历史 与涵义的事 物 是 一大趋
势,”Folkdays的联合创始人Lisa Jaspers指出。“越
来越多的人们开始追求独特性,为了让自己的着装
感觉上并不泯然众人,而手工艺制品天生就是独特
的。”
可持续时尚的独具匠心不只在于其植根于传统
技艺,同样也体现在制衣的创新手法。总部位于柏
林的品牌Luxaa采用高科技面料,如Tyvek(100%
可回收)创造出摩登之极的环保奢华。“将创新的
材质与技术,融入可持续性、功能性与耐久性,就
是我的最大志向,”Luxaa品牌创始人与设计师
Anne Trautwein表示。今日涌现的德国小众环保
品牌带来了一种新型的奢侈——其并不基于品牌
盛名或IT手袋,而是体现在产品的出处、品质与道
德性上。“对越来越多人而言,奢侈品就是在良好
的环境下,以伟大的工艺制成的产品,”Hillerin指
出。Trautwein补充道,人们现在买得“更少但更精”
,并期望买到的产品是漂亮、品质上乘与可持续利
用的。她坚信道德消费意识的崛起意味着“可持续奢
侈品将日益成为身份的象征”。
绿色与可持续设计师们已突破自家店铺与顾客
的界限——他们也在教导大品牌如何以时髦奢华的
手法打造可持续时尚。Schaffrin指出,可持续设计
师们对主流时尚的影响力越来越大。“这一变化显而
易见,传统时装品牌正认真推行可持续发展举措,而
几乎所有的企业如今都设有企业社会责任部门。总
而言之,生态时尚正走向大众市场——这是一项伟
大的成就。”
isabelldehillerin.com, folkdays.com, luxaa.de
95
48: The New Cool
酷感新趋势
装的极低品质感到沮丧。“我们的每个系列都是从面
料生发而来的。事实上,时尚界的驱动力就来自于面
料商,而并非设计师。就像低劣的钢材造不出高品质
的汽车,低品质的面料也生产不出高质量的衣服。
面料对衣服可被如何剪裁、如何清洗、如何耐久都是
至关重要的。如果将衣服与德国人相比较,那就是同
样强调质量与可靠性。”
Bayer同样也执意让自己的衣服符合道德标准
(“我不会选择在孟加拉国生产,譬如说——否则对
自己无法交代,”他表示)与可持续性,尽管这不是他
会时常突出的东西。“购买‘绿色’产品只是一点小进
步。根本上而言我们应该少买。我们压根就不应该
买。但谁愿意听到这些言论呢?这对于企业发展也
不是好事,”他笑着说。
幸而企业发展得不错:虽然他想在五年内实现
营业额翻倍,以此为Oska高速发展中的店铺复制成
本买单,但仍旧将年增长率定在50%左右,这对于这
样一家定位巧妙的公司而言似乎是个轻松的目标。
在这种情况下,人们或许不禁要问,为何Bayer还不
尝试将自己的成功模式用于男装,而不是局限于目
前的胶囊系列。毕竟,这是公司创始时定名Oskar的
初衷。“我们已经做了一些尝试但效果并不理想”他表
示。“同一年龄阶段的男性喜欢非常简单的设计,他
们会固执己见并反复购买同样的东西。我很喜欢这
点——而我正身处时装界。”
oska.com
德国瓷器长久以来总是走在创新的前端,该国的瓷
器品牌也始终保持着国际领先地位,Stephen Doig
报道
Johann Friedrich Böttger是一个在欧洲瓷器界响
当当的名字;各界人士都将Böttger视为当代瓷器之
父。1700年,德国化学家开始试验如何制作瓷器,须
知其制造过程在原产地中国与日本都是讳莫如深的
秘密。1710年成立于迈森的同名公司Meissen,受益
于当地的劳动力资源,建立起这项在日后成为德国
出口主力的事业。
在法兰克福的Porze l l an Museum可见到
Böttger留下的历史遗产,这是博物馆丰富藏品的一
部分,然而这座城市也同样为人们提供了投资瓷器
的诱人机会,这些瓷器摆放在21世纪装饰的家中,与
其陈列于哈布斯堡家族的住宅中同样合称。
Meissen品牌徽章中交叉的双剑,恰如其分地
代表着其对制作工艺的严守。时至今日,品牌仍有
一套严格的培训计划,确保Meissen的工匠们产品
造型和绘制中符合最高标准,并经过为期三年的训
54: Breaking The Mould
突破常规
总部位于慕尼黑的Oska以耳目一新的手法设计女
装,声势日益壮大。《SHOP》撰稿人Josh Sims向
品牌创始人Helmut Bayer讨教成功秘方
这是一家在全球拥有70间门店、市值2500万欧元
的企业。德国服装公司Oska毅然决然地在竞争中
求生存,并赢得了那些不被时尚界重视的女性群体
的芳心。“我想说我们顾客的平均年龄都在50岁以
上——当你到了那个年纪,穿既漂亮又看上去不那
么滑稽,古板或太年轻的衣服实在不是件容易的
事。”Helmut Bayer说,正是她于1997与几位合伙人
(很久之前已将其股份买断)创立了Oska,并在今日与
同僚设计师Stefanie Schmitz共同运营着公司。“这
也决定了我们只针对小众市场。”
这是Bayer一直在小心翼翼培育的市场,其主要
通过近距离了解他的客户:思想解放的新型中年妇
女,可能也没有孩子,Bayer半开玩笑地说,离婚的
和未婚的,脱胎换骨和“准备开始新生活的”,根据他
的原话。“我在熟悉的女性身上一次又一次地见过这
样的发展模式。相对于男性,女性在生命过程中往
往会经历更剧烈的变化,并且她们对于自己在生活
中追求什么有非常清晰的概念。”
并且这点从她们的着装中就可看出端倪。
没有一件O s k a服饰 是 贴有任何外外露标牌
的。“你年轻的时候可能会喜欢商标——看看
Abercrombie&Fitch——但是当你到了一定年纪
之后,不会执着于某个品牌,而是更想要表达自己
的个性,”Bayer说。“人的年龄越大,就变得越有个
性,越有自己的主见。”同样的,时尚的季节性变化
也与此无关。如果你想追逐T台时尚,就去别处寻
找:Oska的每一季产品,如Bayer所言,“不是一本新
书,而是一部续写中的作品里的一个新篇章”。
品牌的每个系列都首先以面料为本:从颜色、质
地到垂坠程度。Oska与其捷克Prostejov的主要生
产商Pro Len紧密合作;该地区不仅有自己的纺织
传统,其地理位置也使其能搜寻到其他欧洲制造商
苦寻而不得的面料,尤其是高品质的皮革,麻料与丝
绸。Oska在那里也拥有自己的染色工坊,有能力进
行复杂的成衣染色(会产生更鲜艳丰富并随时间自
然褪去的色调),也使其很难被仿制。因此,Bayer
承认,Oska的定价并不便宜——但是,他指出,你所
得到的产品必定物有所值 。
不难发现,尽管Bayer坚称自己位于慕尼黑的公
司是一家时尚企业,但他的很多做法都与行业标准
不符。“这是一种相当老派的制衣方式,我想,也与今
日的高街量产品牌大相径庭,”这位曾经的时尚机构
销售代表表示,他建立公司的原因是为自己销售服
globalblue.com
96
练。Meissen的工匠致力于突破瓷器工艺的界限,
将精致细节与繁复装饰赋予从餐具到人俑等各种产
品。
今日的Meissen产品线已扩张至包含当代艺术
家合作系列,以及时髦的摩登系列,并引入生动色
调与装饰工艺;朴素洁净的陶瓷茶具已被闪烁的彩
虹金属色调与建筑线条所取代。为保持品牌对创新
的专注,确保其走在时代前端,公司在去年推出了由
Frida Weyer领衔的时装线——Meissen瓷器对工
艺与细节的专注,同样被灌注到服装系列中。
作为总部毗邻慕尼黑宁芬堡宫的品牌,宁芬堡
瓷器与皇室的纽带是品牌不可或缺的组成部分。宁
芬堡皇家瓷器由巴伐利亚王室在1747年成立,对历
史的追溯仍是今日品牌运作的核心。例如,宁芬堡皇
家瓷器工厂中的设备都是由本地水力发电驱动,所
有产品都使用辘轳或手工成型,手绘、装饰与上釉的
过程无比细致。人们可通过品牌家徽与盾形纹章鉴
别出宁芬堡原产瓷器。
宁芬堡 皇家瓷器的传统工艺与艺术性
始终不变,但公司同样与时并进,引 入创新
系列并与一众明星合作推出产品,其 中 包括
Karl Lagerfeld、Miuccia Prada与Vivienne
Westwood。品牌不吝为产品注入新鲜活力,从碗碟
上布满3D动物形象的奇趣Animal Bowls系列,到
装饰着昆虫与花朵的瓷制人头骨——从而历久弥新
的工艺与时髦华丽的设计,可以携手出现在您的展
示柜中。
meissen.com,
nymphenburg.com
86: When You Shop The World,
Shop Tax Free
畅购全球,尊享退税
当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商店消费时,
环球蓝联(Global Blue)购物退税服务(Tax Free
Shopping)为您节约购物开销。
每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联(Global
Blue)获得购物退税,您怎能错过?您要做的只
是寻找蓝星标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联
(Global Blue)服务,然后遵循我们简单的退税
过程:
1. 消费购物
无论您在哪里消费,请索要环球蓝联退税表格
(Global Blue Tax Free Form),并记得保存小
票。
2. 申请退税
当您准备回家时,您需要先去出发城市的海关柜台
请他们在您的退税表格上盖章,然后再到环球蓝联
的退税点领取您的退税款。
联系方式:
+421 232 111 111
最低消费€25并且节约高达购买价格14.5%的税。请
注意:最终退款将包含增值税总额,但是要扣除管
理手续费。部分机场还将以退税申请表为单位收取
现金退税手续费。
98 | PRODUC TS
Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 86
Souvenir
STEP FORWARD
Family-run shoemaker Melvin & Hamilton was founded in 1988 in Heidelberg by Rajab Choukair and is overseen today by his sons, Karim and Olivier, who inherited their father’s passion for footwear and leather. The brothers design the collections based on traditional shoemaking methods, using only the highest-quality leathers, which are hand-coloured to achieve a unique efect each time. A range of colours and fnishes combined with distinctive
details such as decorative stitching, laser-printed patterns and hand-milled soles, ensure that every pair of Melvin & Hamilton shoes is imbued with character. These lace-up men’s derby shoes are a perfect example; the contrasting coloured panels strike a beautiful balance between tradition and modernity. glMelvin & Hamilton derby shoes, €150,Roland Schuhe, Skyline Plaza, Europa-Allee 6, 60327 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 9776 7908,melvin-hamilton.com
THE DARK SIDE OF THE MOONDie Astronauten der Apollo 8 waren die ersten Menschen, die die dunkle Seite des Mondes mit eigenen Augen sehen konnten. Die Co-Axial Speedmaster aus schwarzer Keramik [ZrO2] ehrt den Pioniergeist, der sie an einen Ort brachte, an dem noch nie ein Mensch zuvor gewesen war. Sie ist eine Hommage an jene Speedmaster Professional Chronographen, die von allen Apollo Astronauten getragen wurden. OMEGA ist stolzer Partner der großen Menschheitsträume.
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OMEGA Boutique • Goetheplatz 5 • Frankfurt am Main