Cover recipe - Clearview books

CoverrecipeAutumn is the peak time for British orchard fruits

– make the most of them with these sweet and savoury recipesRecipes and photographs STUART OVENDEN

Applespears

and

COOK

Peargazy patchwork piep36

October 2018 Omagazine.com 3534 Omagazine.com October 2018

Russet and rum tarte tatinp38

COOK


Peargazy patchwork pie1 HOUR 20 MINUTES | SERVES 6 | EASY

It’s impossible to forget a stargazy pie if you’ve ever seen one. Cornish in origin, it’s a traditional savoury dish of baked sardines, eggs and potatoes, complete with fish heads poking through the pastry to (supposedly) look up wistfully at the stars. Oddly enough, it’s the inspiration for this dessert but without the sardines of course. In my sweetened version, pears have the astronomical inclination – I love the way that the rhubarb dyes the plump base of each pear with a blush of pink.

pears 6, peeledcaster sugar 200gvanilla pod 1, cut in 1/2 lengthwaysrhubarb 400g, cut into 4cm chunksgolden caster sugar 2 tbspready-made shortcrust pastry 150g (see cook’s notes)plain flour for dustingegg 1, beatendemerara sugar 2 tbsp

• Put the pears in a pan and cover with water. Stir in the caster sugar and vanilla then bring to a simmer. Let the pears bubble away for 10-15 minutes or until a knife just slips through the flesh. Remove the pears from the liquor (keep this for drizzling later) and put aside to cool.• Once cooled, cut to level the base of each pear so that they stand upright. Arrange in the bottom of a deep 23cm-round pie dish, as equally spaced apart as possible. Toss

the rhubarb in the golden caster sugar and spoon around the pears. Drizzle 1 tbsp of the pear-poaching liquor over the rhubarb.• Heat the oven to 190C/fan 170C/gas 5. Roll the pastry out on a flour-dusted worksurface and use a pizza wheel or sharp knife to cut irregular shaped but similar sized patches. Cover the rhubarb with the pastry shapes, arranging between the upright pears, and overlapping to seal the crust and create a patchwork effect. • Brush the pastry with beaten egg and sprinkle over the demerara sugar. Bake for 30-35 minutes or until the pastry is golden – cover the pear stems with kitchen foil if you’re worried they’ll burn too much.

PER SERVING 285 KCALS | FAT 7.8G

SATURATES 3G | CARBS 47.2G | SUGARS 36.3G

FIBRE 5.9G | PROTEIN 3.6G | SALT 0.3G

Sticky honey and mustard catherine wheel sausage with peas, cobnuts and celeriac mashp38

COOK’S NOTES

If you’d like to make your own pastry, check out our shortcrust recipe at Omagazine.com.

COOK

Russet and rum tarte tatin1 HOUR 15 MINUTES

SERVES 4-6 | A LITTLE EFFORT

A decent tarte tatin is one of the cornerstones of the orchard repertoire. I’ve made countless variations over the years, but this has to be my favourite. The rum can be replaced with calvados for equally enjoyable results, although it does compromise the pleasingly alliterative recipe title somewhat.

golden caster sugar 60gsoft light brown sugar 40gbutter 50gdark rum 50mlRusset apples (or other eating apple) 4, peeled, cored and halvedready-made puff pastry 150g

• Heat the oven to 200C/fan 180C/gas 6. For the caramel, put the sugars in a heavy-bottomed, 20cm ovenproof frying pan over a medium heat. Keep a watchful eye – when it has melted into a dark golden caramel, take the pan off the heat and carefully stir in the butter, then the rum. Mix quickly and thoroughly.• Turn the heat down, return the pan to the hob and cook the apples in the caramel for 5 minutes or until they start to soften slightly. Arrange the apples curved-side down in the pan and remove from the heat.• Roll the puff pastry out thinly and use a 22-23cm plate as a guide to cut out a large circle. Drape the pastry over the apples, tuck the edges in around the fruit and bake for 25-30 minutes or until the puff pastry is firm and golden. Let the tarte tatin cool for 5 minutes, put a plate on top of the pastry and carefully turn over. Remove the pan and spoon over any left-over caramel. Eat immediately!


SATURATES 7.5G | CARBS 29.4G | SUGARS 21.8G


Sticky honey and mustard catherine wheel sausage with pears, cobnuts and celeriac mash

40 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY

It’s not just the name that makes this dish perfect for a bonfire or firework party. The mix

of sticky, sweet, savoury and a pop of heat from the mustard is exactly the kind of thing you want to be eating on a cold autumn night – fire blazing, scarves done up tightly and sparklers at the ready.

CELERIAC MASHceleriac 750g, peeled and roughly choppedmilk 100ml, hotbutter 50gspring onions 6, choppedSAUSAGE AND PEARS pork chipolatas 12 (make sure that they’re joined together)pears 3 ripebutter a knobperry or cider a small glasswholegrain mustard 1 tbsprunny honey 2 tbspTO SERVE cobnuts or hazelnuts 100g, chopped

• Tip the celeriac into a large pan and cover with water. Add a pinch of salt and bring to the boil – simmer for 20 minutes until tender, then drain. Return the cooked celeriac to the pan and mash roughly. Stir in the hot milk, butter, spring onions and some seasoning, then mix well. Put a lid on the pan and keep warm until the sausages are ready.• Untwist the links between the chipolatas and push the sausage meat up towards one end to make one long sausage. Roll the sausage into a spiral and push a couple of wooden or metal skewers through at right angles to secure.• Halve the pears and take out the cores with a melon baller. Fry the sausage in a large frying pan on a medium heat for 10 minutes on each side until browned all over. Drop the knob of butter into the pan, then add the pears. After 5 minutes, stir in the perry/cider, mustard and honey – season, then put a lid on the pan and simmer on low for 15 minutes, turning the pears and sausage intermittently. Serve with a scattering of chopped cobnuts and the celeriac mash on the side.

PER SERVING 743 KCALS | FAT 53G


FIBRE 17.3G | PROTEIN 19.7G | SALT 2G

Roast pork loin with apfelkren1 HOUR 30 MINUTES | SERVES 4

EASY | GF

Apfelkren is an Austrian apple and horseradish sauce traditionally served with roast beef, but it’s just as good alongside pork. The horseradish kick and sharp, sweet apple work wonderfully together.

PORKpork loin on the bone 1.2kg, skin on and scored in a crosshatchgarlic 3 cloves, slicedrosemary a few sprigs, leaves picked APPLE AND HORSERADISH SAUCEBramley apples 3 medium, peeled, cored and roughly choppedcaster sugar 50gfresh horseradish 50g, grated lemon 1, juiced

• About an hour or so before cooking, take the pork out of the fridge and rub the skin well with salt. Put to one side – the salt will draw moisture out of the skin (creating better crackling), while the time elapsed before cooking allows the pork to warm to room temperature (which is better for an even roast). Season the meat and make small incisions in the flesh, then poke in a few slices of garlic and rosemary.• Heat the oven to 240C/fan 220C/gas 9. Stand the meat on a roasting tray with the skin facing up and roast for 20 minutes. Turn the heat down to 190C/fan 170C/gas 5 and cook for a further hour, or until the core temperature has reached 68C when checked with a meat thermometer. Rest in a warm spot for 15 minutes before serving; but don’t cover – you’ll spoil the crackling if you do.• While the pork cooks, tip the apples into a pan with the sugar and a splash of water, then stir on a medium heat for 10-15 minutes or until they have broken down to a near purée. Take off the heat, cool for 10 minutes then stir in the horseradish and lemon juice. Carve the pork and serve with the sauce and crackling.





COOK’S NOTES

It’s easy to upscale the pork for more people – just add 30 minutes extra cooking time for every 500g of extra weight. If you can, ask the butcher to saw a groove across the ribs at the base of the joint – it makes it a lot easier to pull the meat away from the bone when carving.

40 Omagazine.com September 2018

COOK


Cider-poached apples with toffee sauce and candied hazelnutsp42Baked toffee

apple cheesecakep42

42 Omagazine.com October 2018

Baked toffee apple cheesecake1 HOUR 30 MINUTES + COOLING

SERVES 8-10 | EASY

Discovery has to be one of my favourite eating apples. The flesh has a vibrant magenta blush when cut, while the taste is crisp, sweet and refreshing. Discovery is a natural partner for sticky toffee and works brilliantly in this baked cheesecake recipe – good eaters like Cox or Braeburn are more than worthy alternatives if you’re unable to find them.

butter 75g, melted, plus a little for the tinginger biscuits 200gDiscovery apples (or Cox or Braeburn) 6soft cheese 600gdouble cream 100mlcaster sugar 150gplain flour 50gvanilla extract a few drops TOFFEE SAUCEdouble cream 300mlsoft light brown sugar 100gbutter 75gvanilla extract a few drops

• Butter a 23cm springform cake tin and line with baking paper. Blitz the biscuits in a food processor until fine and tip into a bowl, then mix in the melted butter. Spread the biscuit mix onto the bottom of the tin, using the back of a spoon to flatten it out into an even layer. Chill while you make the filling.• Heat the oven to 180C/fan 160C/gas 4. Peel, core and finely chop two of the apples. Whisk together the soft cheese, cream, caster sugar, flour and vanilla, then stir in the chopped apple. Pour the mixture over the biscuit base and bake for 30-40 minutes, after which the centre of the cheesecake should have a uniform wobble when gently shaken. Turn the oven off and leave the cheesecake in the oven until it has cooled completely.

• To make the toffee, melt the cream, sugar, butter, vanilla and a pinch of salt together in a pan. Bring to a low bubble and keep stirring until the liquid is a thick, golden toffee colour. Spoon a thin layer of toffee onto the cheesecake. Core, slice and arrange the remaining 4 apples on top. Use a pastry brush to thinly coat the apple slices with toffee (this will create a seal and stop them going brown). Drizzle over the remaining toffee before serving.




Cider-poached apples with toffee sauce and candied hazelnuts30 MINUTES | SERVES 6

EASY | GF

This dessert has real wow factor, it’s easy to make and can be prepped ahead. Simply warm the poached apples before serving and plate up with the candied hazelnuts and toffee sauce. For extra decadence, a spoonful of calvados cream is delicious.

POACHED APPLEScider 1 litre soft light brown sugar 150gcinnamon 1 stickstar anise 1lemon 1, zested eating apples 6CANDIED HAZELNUTSegg white 1granulated sugar 50ghazelnuts 100g, roughly choppedbutter 25g, meltedTOFFEE SAUCEdouble cream 300mlsoft light brown sugar 100g

butter 75gvanilla extract a few drops

• Heat the cider, light brown sugar, spices and lemon zest in a pan, stirring occasionally until the sugar has dissolved. Peel the apples and add carefully to the hot cider. Bring the cider back to the boil, then turn the heat down and simmer for 20 minutes or until a sharp knife slips easily through the apple flesh. Take the pan off the heat and let the apples cool in the liquid.• Heat the oven to 190C/fan 170C/gas 5. To make the candied hazelnuts, whisk the egg white for a minute or so until frothy, then gently fold in the granulated sugar, hazelnuts, most of the butter and a pinch of salt. Lightly grease a baking sheet with the left-over butter, then spread over the mixture. Bake for 5-7 minutes or until golden – a watchful eye is recommended, as it can burn pretty sharpish. Let it cool before breaking it up into little pieces.• For the sauce, gently melt the cream, light brown sugar, butter and vanilla together in a pan. Bring to a bubble and keep stirring and simmering until the liquid is a thick, golden toffee colour. Serve warm with the poached apples and a sprinkle of candied nuts.



FIBRE 2G | PROTEIN 4.7G | SALT 0.4G

Recipes extracted from The Orchard Cook by Stuart Ovenden (£25, Clearview Books).

OrchardCook RECIPES FROM

TREE TO TABLE

STUART OVENDEN

UK £25 US $30

WWW.CLEARVIEWBOOKS.COM

From the first ripe cherries in early summer to the deep autumnal flavours of quince and medlar, The Orchard Cook contains over 80 sweet and savoury recipes. Classic dishes such as fruit pies and tarte tatin sit happily alongside new discoveries like oysters with apple mignonette and pear juice-soused mackerel. Pickles, vinegars and chutneys are essential in using up surplus produce, and recipes for drinks and smoked foods help to stock the larder for the self-sufficient cook. Stuart Ovenden is a freelance food photographer, stylist and writer whose clients include Condé Nast Traveller, Delicious, Olive and Waitrose. Prior to this he spent seven years on the team at BBC Good Food Magazine, the UK’s biggest selling food magazine. Stuart is passionate about growing, foraging and preparing food from his garden orchard in the countryside.

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Cover recipe - Clearview books