Madagascar: The Bradt Travel Guide (11th edition)

Daniel Austin Hilary Bradt

Madagascar edition

11

How did it all happen? George (my then husband) and I wrote the

barge, and typed it up on a borrowed typewriter. We had no money for the next two books so George went to work for a printer and was paid in books rather than money.

to get us started (and the mother to run our

Janet Mears, who is still working for us. She and

our authors and readers. Without them there

for making it happen.

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ABOUT THE AUTHORSDaniel Austin’s fascination with Madagascar began long before he managed to muster the funds to go and see the island fi rst hand, on what he planned to be a once-in-a-lifetime trip before submitting to the inevitability of getting a ‘proper job’. Whether it was his aversion to such drudgery or the allure of Madagascar that was stronger than he expected isn’t certain – perhaps both – but the trip changed the course of his life and he has returned every year for the decade since, oft en for three months at a time. Now occupied full time with all things Malagasy, he enjoys exploring and photographing the zoological, botanical, geological and cultural wonders of this enigmatic country, and occasionally lecturing and leading tours there too. Daniel is secretary of the London-based Anglo-Malagasy Society (see page 139), founder of the Madagascar Library (www.madagascar-library.com) and co-author of the other Bradt titles Madagascar Wildlife and Madagascar Highlights.

Hilary Bradt’s career as an occupational therapist ended when potential employers noticed that the time taken off for travel exceeded the periods of employment. With her former husband George, she self-published her fi rst guidebook in 1974 during an extended journey through South America. As well as running Bradt Travel Guides, Hilary worked for 25 years as a tour leader in Madagascar. Her in-depth knowledge of the country has brought her lecture engagements at the Royal Geographical Society, the Smithsonian Institution and on board expedition cruise ships, as well as numerous commissions for travel articles. She now lives in semi-retirement in Devon and is delighted to have handed over the hard graft of researching new editions to Daniel.

At Bradt Travel Guides we’re aware that guidebooks start to go out of date on the day they’re published – and that you, our readers, are out there in the fi eld doing research of your own. You’ll fi nd out before us when a fi ne new family-run hotel opens or a favourite restaurant changes hands and goes downhill. You can post your feedback and read updates from fellow travellers via our Madagascar forum at www.bradtupdates.com/madagascar or by clicking the feedback button on this book's Facebook page at www.facebook.com/bradtmadagascar. Alternatively, contact the offi ce on % 01753 893444 or e [email protected] or add a review of the book to www.bradtguides.com or Amazon.

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Eleventh edition published July 2014 First published 1988 Bradt Travel Guides Ltd IDC House, Th e Vale, Chalfont St Peter, Bucks SL9 9RZ, England www.bradtguides.com Print edition published in the USA by Th e Globe Pequot Press Inc, PO Box 480, Guilford, Connecticut 06437-0480

Text copyright © 2014 Daniel Austin and Hilary Bradt Maps copyright © 2014 Bradt Travel Guides Ltd and Daniel Austin (six maps as marked)Illustrations copyright © 2007 Janet RobinsonPhotographs copyright © 2014 Individual photographers (see below) Project Manager: Claire Strange Cover research: Pepi Bluck, Perfect Picture

Th e authors and publisher have made every eff ort to ensure the accuracy of the information in this book at the time of going to press. However, they cannot accept any responsibility for any loss, injury or inconvenience resulting from the use of information contained in this guide. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise without the prior consent of the publisher. Requests for permission should be addressed to Bradt Travel Guides Ltd in the UK (print and digital editions), or to Th e Globe Pequot Press Inc in North and South America (print edition only).

ISBN: 978 1 84162 498 3 (print) e-ISBN: 978 1 84162 795 3 (e-pub) e-ISBN: 978 1 84162 696 3 (mobi)

British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library

Photographers Daniel Austin (DA); Hilary Bradt (HB); Tiff any Coates (TC); Nick Garbutt (NG); Elliott Hails (EH); Louise Jasper (LJ); Chad Lebo (CL); Karim Nari/Madagascar National Tourism Board (KN); Ony Rakotoarivelo (OR); Mark Scherz (MS)Front cover Coquerel’s sifaka (DA) Back cover O’Shaughnessy’s chameleon (MS), girl at Manafi afy (DA)Title page Madagascar giant day gecko (DA), Nosy Lonja (KN), Madagascar pitcher plant (DA)

Maps David McCutcheon FBCart.SIllustrations Janet Robinson

Typeset from the authors' disc by Ian Spick, Bradt Travel Guides Production managed by Jellyfi sh Print Solutions; printed in India Digital conversion by the Firsty Group



Acknowledgements

Th roughout this guidebook, ‘boxes’ written by specialists give the reader background information on a host of subjects. We owe a huge debt of gratitude to these experts for their invaluable contributions. Zoological material was provided by Nick Garbutt (mammals), the late Alison Jolly (lemurs), Frances Kerridge (carnivores), Richard Jenkins, Paul Racey and Julie Hanta Razafi manahaka (bats), Duncan Murrell (whales), Jonathan Ekstrom (parrots), Bill Love (reptiles), Devin Edmonds and Falitiana Rabemananjara (frogs), Len de Beer and John Roff (invertebrates). Clare and Johan Hermans, and Gavin Hart enthused on the wonders of Malagasy fl ora. Conservation issues were covered by Lanto Andrianandrasana, Chris Birkinshaw, Rainer Dolch, Alasdair Harris, Richard Lewis, Kara Moses, Erik Patel, Lennart Pyritz, Jamie Spencer, Charles Welch and Anne Yoder. Th e expertise of Tim Ireland enriched the sections on geology and gemstones. Special thanks go to doctors Felicity Nicholson and Jane Wilson-Howarth for health and safety advice; Ailie Tam, Samantha Cameron and Chris Howles provided further medical background. Insights into history and politics came from John Grehan, Matthew Hatchwell and Ambassador Timothy Smart, as well as former ambassador Sir Mervyn Brown who has lent his expertise since the very fi rst edition. Wining and dining advice was provided by Carrie Antal and Christian Schiller. Specialists in traditional customs, craft s and social issues included Camilla Backhouse, Christina Corbett, Th eresa Haine, Joseph Radoccia, Seraphine Tierney Ramanantsoa, Tess Shellard and Jo Shinner. Musicologist Paddy Bush off ered his expertise with Derek Schuurman, who also authored sections on such diverse subjects as birds, fi sh, illegal logging and mangosteens. Janice Booth added her helpful tips on getting to grips with the Malagasy language. Specialist advice to mountain bikers was provided by Lex Cumber, Bill French and Julian Cooke. Divers will benefi t from the input of Tim Healy, Liz Bomford and Rob Conway. Gordon Rattray added advice on travel for people with disabilities. Entertaining travellers’ tales came from FRB, Kelly Green, Kathryn Goodenough, Lee Miller, Toby Nowlan, Colin Palmer, Rupert Parker, Marko Petrovic, Nigel Vardy and Donald Wilson.

Many kind people living or working in Madagascar have helpfully provided updates or logistical support. Th anks in this regard go to Franco Andreone, Mialy Andriamahefazafy, Olivier Behra, Sophie Benbow, Holger Blanck, Richard Bohan, Elian Clariot, Richard Cowper, Remi Doomernik, Barry Ferguson, Tsanta Fiderana, Louise Fox, Charlie Gardner, Julie Geels, Charlotte Gough, Peter Hanratty, Billy Head, Susan Herbst, Christopher Holmes, Chris Inman, Louise Jasper, Harriet Joao, Brian Jones, Sian Jones, Klaus Konnerth, Minnie Lanting, Chad Lebo, Gary Lemmer, Eric Mathieu, Vik Mohan, Richard Nimmo, Pat Paladines, Arianna Pattek, Shawn Peabody, Andry Petignat, Naina Raharijaona, Serge Rajaobelina, Ony Rakotoarivelo, Hery Zo Rakotondramanana, Jocelyn Ramanambohitra, Njaka Ramandimbiarison, Haja Rasambainarivo, Jonah Ratsimbazafy, Nivo Ravelojaona,



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Chris Raxworthy, Marcia Rooker, Mark Scherz, Cornelia Schiller, George Siemensma, Franz Stadelmann, Laura Tilghman, Edward Tucker Brown, Jacques Vieira, Kame Westerman, Mike Wilson, Pat Wright and Zephyrin Zanarison.

A small army of travellers have written in to share their experiences. Many took the time to write tremendously detailed trip reports for which we are extremely grateful. Th is book would not be as rich in detail without the eyes and ears of so many helpful readers. Th ank you to Sonja Aebersold, Allyson Andrews, Wendy Applequist, Elise Armitage, Jorn Arnt, Chris Ballance, Karen Bevan-Mogg, Friederike Brandt, Katherine Browne, Kris and Helaine Cadman, Alastair Cameron, Stephen Cartledge, Trevor Chandler, Mogens Christensen, Tiff any Coates, Donal Conlon, Joan Curtis, Merel Dalebout, Ann de Winter, Karlien Decoster, Edward Fletcher, Philipp Funovits, Jane Gamble, Lorna Gillespie, Les Goldman, Lesley Gowland, Rory Graham, Jeannine Greene, Katharina Gugerell, Jim Haigwood, Zoe Hale, Jaozandry Jenita Harilala, Kristoff er Hewitt, Geoff Humble, Steve Johns, Kurtis and Holly Jones, Mamy José, Yoav Jurkevitch, H and M Kendrick, George Kostopoulos, Neil Lambert, Patrick Laughlin, Kara Lawrence, Sophie Lee, Marcel Lootens, Putu Madisha, Patrick Marks, Colin Michael, Sylviane Minnot, Phoebe Mottram, Paul Öfner, Les Parkes, Ed and Chris Payne, Fika Perie, Annah Peterson, Martina Petru, Yasmine Piening, Bryan Pready, Aili Pyhälä, Ruth Rakotomanga, Anton Rijsdijk, John Rock, Dieter Rohrbach, Gabi Sellgrad, Robert Stewart, Itziar and Pablo Strubell, Ben Tapley, Alison Th ieme, David Th omas, Patricia Tierney, Sara Tolliver, Joseph Tomasulo, Mark Tucker, Marieke van der Spek, Lesley van Helden, Arie van Wijngaarden, Mike Westendorp, Audrey Wiechman and James Wright.

Misoatra (thank you) to you all!

DEDICATIONTh is edition is dedicated to the memory of Dr Alison Jolly (1937–2014) who gave so much to Madagascar throughout her life, inspiring countless conservationists along the way and – through her lyrically descriptive writing – brought the island to the attention of a host of ordinary people.

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Contents

Introduction ix

PART ONE GENERAL INFORMATION 1

Chapter 1 The Country 3Geography 3, Climate 3, A brief history 5, Government and politics 11, Economy 11

Chapter 2 People and Culture 13Origins 13, Beliefs and customs 13, Malagasy society 20, Ethnic groups 24, Language 30

Chapter 3 Natural History 33Introduction 33, Geology 35, Flora 38, Fauna 47, Madagascar’s ecosystems 67, Conservation 71, Protected areas 75

Chapter 4 Practical Information 77When to visit 77, Choosing a trip to suit you 77, Highlights and itineraries 83, Tour operators 86, Red tape 90, Getting there 91, What to take 93, Money 96, Getting around 97, Accommodation 103, Eating and drinking 105, Public holidays 107, Shopping for souvenirs 109, Arts and entertainment 111, Communications 111, Business hours 112

Chapter 5 Health and Safety 115Before you go 115, Travel clinics and health information 119, Specifi c health issues 119, Medical kit 124, Safety 124, Advice for specifi c types of traveller 128

Chapter 6 Madagascar and You 133Responsible tourism 133, How you can help 139

PART TWO THE GUIDE 147

Chapter 7 Antananarivo and Area 149History 149, Ivato airport area 150, What to see and do near the airport 155, Antananarivo city 158, What to see and do in Tana 175, Day excursions from Tana 178, Overnight excursions 180

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Chapter 8 The Highlands South of Tana 183Tana to Antsirabe 183, Antsirabe (PK 169) and around 187, Ambositra (PK 259) and around 194, Ambositra to Fianarantsoa 198, Ranomafana National Park 200, Fianarantsoa (PK 408) and around 203, Ambalavao (PK 465) and around 208, Andringitra Massif 212, Ambalavao to Ihosy 214

Chapter 9 The South 216History 216, Ihosy to Ranohira 218, Isalo National Park 219, Th e Makay Massif 222, Ranohira to Toliara 223, Toliara (PK 945) 225, Ifaty and Mangily 236, North of Ifaty 240, Anakao 243, South of Anakao 246, Toliara to Taolagnaro (Fort Dauphin) 248, Th e far south 250, Mandrare Valley 251, Taolagnaro (Fort Dauphin) 256

Chapter 10 East of Tana 267Antananarivo–Côte Est Railway 267, Tana to Moramanga 268, Lake Alaotra 271, Zahamena National Park 273, Moramanga to Andasibe 273, Andasibe area 273, Andasibe to Brickaville 280, Brickaville to Toamasina 281

Chapter 11 South of Toamasina 283Pangalanes Canal 283, Th e east coast from Vatomandry to Mananjary 288, Th e east coast from Mananjary to Taolagnaro 289

Chapter 12 Toamasina and the Northeast 297 History 297, Toamasina (Tamatave) 298, Toamasina to Soanierana-Ivongo 306, Soanierana-Ivongo to Maroantsetra 309, Masoala Peninsula 316, Antalaha to Iharana (Vohemar) 319, Andapa area 326

Chapter 13 Ile Sainte Marie (Nosy Boraha) 333 Ile Sainte Marie, main island 334, Ile aux Nattes (Nosy Nato) 341

Chapter 14 The North 343Antsiranana (Diego Suarez) 343, Ramena and the east coast 350, Excursions west from Antsiranana 353, Montagne d’Ambre (Amber Mountain) National Park 354, Excursions south from Antsiranana 357, Ankarana National Park 358, From Antsiranana to Iharana (Vohemar) by road 362, Ambilobe to Ambanja (and on to Nosy Be) 365, Bays and inlets accessible to yachts 367

Chapter 15 Nosy Be and Nearby Islands 369History 369, Transport 371, Activities and excursions 371, Hell-Ville (Andoany) 376, Ambatoloaka 379, Beach hotels and other accommodation 381, Islands around



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Nosy Be 385, Mitsio Islands (northeast of Nosy Be) 389, Islands southwest of Nosy Be 390

Chapter 16 The West 393Mahajanga (Majunga) 395, Ankarafantsika National Park 402, Southwest of Mahajanga 405, Fly-in beach resorts northeast of Mahajanga 407, Northeast of Mahajanga by road 409, Maintirano to Morondava 412, Morondava 422, Morondava to Toliara 426, River trips 432

Appendix 1 Historical Chronology 435

Appendix 2 The Malagasy Language 438

Appendix 3 Further Information 441

Index 448

I I l

NightclubInternet access Church/cathedralCemeteryMosqueZoological parkGarden/botanical siteLighthouseShipwreckScenic viewpointWaterfallCaveGeyser/hot springsBeachScuba divingIsolated woodland feature Isolated deciduous (inc baobab) featureSummit (height in metres)Other place of interest

Urban park

Urban market

Protected areas

Forest reserves

Main road/other road4x4/trackFootpathCanalRailwayAirport (international/domestic)AirfieldPirogue/vedette ferryTaxi-brousse station, etcCar hireFilling station/garageTourist informationEmbassyMuseumCinema/theatreHistoric buildingCastle/fortMonument/statuePost officeBank or bureau de change/ATMHospital/clinic, etc Pharmacy

KEY TO SYMBOLS



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Air Madagascar domestic routes 101Ambositra 196Anakao & region 245Andapa, Protected areas near 327Andasibe, Protected areas near 274Andringitra National Park 213Ankarafantsika National Park 403Ankarana National Park 359Antananarivo 157Antananarivo city centre 160–1Antananarivo environs 148Antananarivo: Ivato airport area 152Antsirabe 188Antsiranana (Diego Suarez) 346Berenty Reserve 253Climatic regions 5Dive centres 83East coast, The 284Ethnic groups, Distribution of 25Farafangana 293Fianarantsoa 205Gondwana 33Hell-Ville (Andoany) 377Highlands south of Tana 184Ifaty & Mangily area 237Ile Sainte Marie (Nosy Boraha) 332

Isalo National Park 221Lake Alaotra 272Madagascar colour section ii–iiiMahajanga (Majunga) 396Manakara 289Maroantsetra 312Masoala Peninsula 317Menabe region 416Menabe to Toliara 427Montagne d'Ambre National Park 355Morondava 424North, The 344Northeast, The 296Nosy Be 370Nosy Be West 383Nosy Be, Islands around 386Nosy Mangabe 319Pangalanes Canal 286Protected areas 74Ranomafana National Park 201Sambava 323South, The 217Southeast, The 252Tana to Toamasina 266Taolagnaro (Fort Dauphin) 258Taolagnaro city centre 261Toamasina (Tamatave) 299Toamasina city centre 301Toliara (Tulear) 227Toliara central area 228Toliara region 232West, The 394

LIST OF MAPS

Several maps use grid lines to allow easy location of sites. Map grid references are listed in square brackets after listings in the text, with page number followed by grid number, eg: [160 C3].

NOTE ABOUT MAPS

For other books on Madagascar, check out Bradt’s Madagascar Wildlife, Madagascar Highlights and Madagascar: The Eighth Continent. Go to www.bradtguides.com and key in MAD40 at the checkout for your 40% discount.

ATTENTION MADAGASCAR ENTHUSIASTS



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GEOGRAPHYFull name Republic of Madagascar (Repoblikan’i Madagasikara)Motto Tanindrazana, Fahafahana, Fandrosoana (Fatherland, Liberty, Progress)Area 587,041km2 (world’s 4th-largest island; 2½ times the size of UK)Capital city Antananarivo (Tana)Major towns Fianarantsoa (Fianar), Antsirabe, Toliara (Tulear), Taolagnaro (Fort Dauphin), Toamasina (Tamatave), Mahajanga (Majunga), Antsiranana (Diego Suarez)Main international airport Ivato Airport, Antananarivo (TNR)Other main airports Antsiranana (DIE), Mahajanga (MJN), Morondava (MOQ), Nosy Be (NOS), Toamasina (TMM), Taolagnaro (FTU), Toliara (TLE)Transport 5,613km paved roads; 854km railways; 432km navigable waterways

PRACTICALITIESPublic holidays 1 Jan, 29 Mar, Easter (movable), 1 May, Ascension (movable), Whit Monday (movable), 26 Jun, 15 Aug, 14 Oct, 1 Nov, 11 Dec, 25 DecTime zone 3 hours ahead of GMT (no daylight savings time observed)Electricity 220 volts, European-style round-pin socketsCurrency Ariary (Ar; MGA)International dialling code +261 (followed by 20 when calling landlines)Internet domain extension .mgDriving side RightVisa Required by all tourists; available on arrival; max 90 days; see page 90

HUMAN STATISTICSPopulation 23 million (2014 est); growing at 3% per yearAge structure 0–14yrs 41% of population; 15–64 yrs 56%; 65yrs & over 3%Life expectancy Male 63 years; female 66 yearsPoverty 81% live on less than US$1.25/day; 93% on less than US$2.00/dayLiteracy 65% of over-15s can read and writeOffi cial languages Malagasy, FrenchReligions Indigenous beliefs (52%), Christian (41%), Muslim (7%)

POLITICS AND ECONOMYLeader President Hery Rajaonarimampianina (since January 2014)GDP US$21bn (PPP); US$10.0bn (offi cial exchange rate); US$900 (per capita PPP)Main agriculture Rice, coff ee, vanilla, sugar cane, cloves, cocoa, cassava (tapioca), beans, bananas, peanuts, livestock productsMain exports Vanilla, prawns, coff ee, sugar, clothing, chromiteMain import partners China (18%), France (12%), South Africa (5%), India (5%)Flag Horizontal bands of red and green alongside a vertical white band (the red represents sovereignty, the green stands for hope, and the white for purity)Independence 26 June 1960 (from France)

MADAGASCAR AT A GLANCE



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The Country

GEOGRAPHYA chain of mountains runs like a spine down the east-centre of the island descending sharply to the Indian Ocean, leaving only a narrow coastal plain. Th ese eastern mountain slopes bear the remains of the dense rainforest which once covered all of the eastern section of the island. Th e western plain is wider and the climate drier, supporting forests of deciduous trees and acres of savannah grassland. Madagascar’s highest mountain is Maromokotro, part of the Tsaratanana Massif, in the north of the island. In the south is the spiny forest.

CLIMATEMadagascar has a tropical climate: November to March (summer/wet season) is hot with variable rainfall; April to October (winter/dry season) is mainly dry and mild.

Typically, southwest trade winds drop their moisture on the eastern mountain slopes and blow hot and dry in the west. North and northwest ‘monsoon’ air currents bring heavy rain in summer, decreasing southward so that the rainfall in Taolagnaro is half that of Toamasina. There are also considerable variations of temperature dictated by altitude and latitude. On the summer solstice of 22 December the sun is directly over the Tropic of Capricorn, and the weather is very warm. June is the coolest month.

Average midday temperatures in the dry season are 25ºC (77°F) in the highlands and 30ºC (86°F) on the coast. These statistics are misleading, however, since in June the night-time temperature can drop to near freezing in the highlands and it is cool in the south. The winter daytime temperatures are very pleasant, and the hot summer season is usually tempered by cool breezes on the coast.

Madagascar frequently suff ers from cyclones, especially during February and March, primarily down the east coast (see box, page 4).

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Region Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov DecWestern ● ● ● ●Central ● ● ● ● ●Eastern ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●Northern ● ● ● ●Northwestern ● ● ● ● ●Southwestern ● ●

● = rain = driest months = fi ne but cool

RAINFALL CHART

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The Country CLIM

ATEFOR COPYRIGHT REASONS THIS PDF CONTAINS ONLY A LIMITED SAMPLE OF PAGES


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Th e map and chart in this section give easy reference to the driest and wettest months and regions, but remember: even in the rainiest months there will be sunny intervals, and in the driest there may be heavy showers. For more advice on the best months to visit Madagascar see page 77.

CLIMATIC REGIONSWestern (dry tropical) climate Th is zone sees almost no rainfall from April to November. Towards its northern extremity, Mahajanga receives 140cm per year with around half the days from December to March seeing some rain. Further south, Morondava’s annual rainfall is just 60cm and there are no more than seven or eight wet days per month even at the peak of the ‘rainy season’. Daytime

Madagascar has always suff ered from cyclones, which generally receive scant attention from the English-speaking media. In the decade to 2013 a total of 15 cyclones made landfall on the island, with varying levels of destruction.

In January 2004, Cyclone Elita struck in the northwest then crossed the country twice, killing 33. Barely a month later Madagascar was struck near Antalaha by Gafi lo, the most intense cyclone to form in the Indian Ocean since records began. Its 160mph winds resulted in at least 363 deaths, over 250,000 left homeless, and damage estimated at US$250 million. In 2005 cyclones Ernest and Felapi hit the Toliara region within fi ve days of one another. The combined death toll was 233. Indlala was the next major cyclone, resulting in 276 dead or missing after it struck the northeast coast in March 2007. Then in 2008, Ivan caused devastation around Toamasina and Ile Sainte Marie, resulting in 93 fatalities and rendering some 190,000 homeless. The following fi ve years were somewhat calmer, with just four cyclones making landfall. In 2011, Bingiza destroyed over 25,000 houses and 36 schools but miraculously claimed just 22 victims. At least 33 more perished in 2012 at the hands of Giovanna, which wiped out two villages and damaged many more as it came ashore south of Toamasina.

It is often said that Madagascar’s cyclone season is January to March and its cyclone region is the east coast. In truth, although the east does suff er worst, cyclones strike all parts of Madagascar and can hit anytime from October to May.

But the risk to tourists is much less than you might imagine. Bear in mind that the majority of lives claimed by Madagascar’s cyclones are lost at sea (109 of Gafi lo’s victims died in the sinking of a single ferry) and almost all of the buildings destroyed are huts constructed from natural materials rather than sturdy brick hotels. There is usually several days’ warning and you can get regularly updated forecasts of the path of an approaching cyclone via www.usno.navy.mil/JTWC and www.wunderground.com/hurricane. Never embark on a boat journey if a cyclone may be approaching. In the unlikely event of being caught up in a severe cyclone, take shelter inside a strong building well away from the sea or any large trees.

To put the numbers of fatalities into perspective, for every cyclone death in Madagascar, over 300 people die from malaria. The real threat from a major cyclone is not in its direct casualties but the many thousands who will suff er in the months that follow as a result of the destruction of crops and infrastructure.

CYCLONES Daniel Austin



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temperatures can be very hot (typically 30–35°C) although the nights are cool from May to September.

Central (highland) climate Th e capital city typically has daytime highs of around 27°C from October to April, falling to about 21°C in July. Night-time temperatures are about 11°C lower, so it can get quite chilly. Fianarantsoa’s daytime temperatures vary between 17°C (July) and 25°C (November). Th e rainy season in this zone usually starts at the end of November, with two-thirds of days seeing some rain from December to March, and one-third for the rest of the year. Annual rainfall ranges from 80cm to 150cm.

Eastern (tropical humid) climate Rarely does a week pass without rain in the east. Annual rainfall ranges from 150cm in Taolagnaro to almost 500cm in parts of the Masoala peninsula. Th e driest months are April to November, but December and January are also great times to visit. Th e risk of torrential rain and cyclones is highest in February and March. Typical daytime highs for this zone vary between 24°C (July and August) and 30°C (January).

Northern (dry tropical) climate Th e far north is similar to the eastern zone, except for the area around Antsiranana, which has a microclimate that gets only 95cm of rain annually, with a long and reliable dry season from April to November and typical daytime temperatures reaching 30°C most of the year.

Northwestern (Sambirano) climate Dominated by the Tsaratanana Massif, this small region includes the island of Nosy Be and has a microclimate with frequent heavy rain alternating with sunshine. Annual rainfall is 200cm and the driest months are May to October. Daytime highs are typically in the high-20s year-round.

Southwestern (semi-arid) climate Th is is the driest part of Madagascar. Sometimes a year can pass with no rain at all in the extreme southwest. Toliara gets around 30cm a year, mostly in January and February. Daytime temperatures are typically 25–29°C, but nights can be quite cold, especially from June to August.

A BRIEF HISTORYTHE FIRST EUROPEANS Th e fi rst Europeans to sight Madagascar were the Portuguese in 1500, although there is evidence of earlier Arab settlements on the coast. Th ere were unsuccessful attempts to establish French and British settlements

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CLIMATIC REGIONS

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The Country A BRIEF H

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during the next couple of centuries but these failed due to disease and hostile local people. Hence a remarkably homogeneous and united country was able to develop under its own rulers.

By the early 1700s, the island had become a haven for pirates and slave traders, who both traded with and fought the local kings of the east and west coast clans.

THE RISE OF THE MERINA KINGDOM Th e powerful Merina Kingdom was forged by Andrianampoinimerina (be thankful that this was a shortened version of his full name: Andrianampoinimerinandriantsimitoviaminandriampanjaka!).

Having succeeded to the tiny kingdom of Ambohimanga in 1787, by 1808 he had united the various Merina kingdoms and conquered the other highland tribes.

The most intriguing insight into 18th-century Madagascar was provided by the diary of Robert Drury, who was shipwrecked off the island in 1701 and spent over 16 years there, much of the time as a slave to Antandroy or Sakalava chiefs.

Drury was only 15 when his boat foundered off the southern tip of Madagascar (he had been permitted by his father back in Britain to go to India with trade goods). The shipwreck survivors were treated well by the local king but kept prisoners for reasons of status. After a few days they made a bid for freedom by seizing the king and some of his courtiers as hostages and marching east. They were followed by hundreds of warriors who watched for any relaxation in the guard; they were without water for three days as they crossed the burning hot desert and just as they came in sight of the River Mandrare (having released the hostages) they were attacked and many were speared to death.

For ten years Drury was a slave of the Antandroy royal family. He worked with cattle and eventually was appointed royal butcher, the task of slaughtering a cow for ritual purposes being supposedly that of someone of royal blood – and lighter skin. Drury was a useful substitute. He also acquired a wife.

Wars with the neighbouring Mahafaly gave him the opportunity to escape north across the desert to St Augustine’s Bay, some 400km away. Here he hoped to fi nd a ship to England, but his luck turned and he again became a slave, this time to the Sakalava. When a ship did come in, his master refused to consider selling him to the captain, and Drury’s desperate eff ort to get word to the ship through a message written on a leaf came to nothing when the messenger lost the leaf and substituted another, less meaningful one. Two more years of relative freedom followed, and he fi nally got away in 1717, nearly 17 years after his shipwreck.

Ever quick to put his experience to good use, he later returned to Madagascar as a slave trader!

Some consider his diary to be a work of fi ction, although Robert Drury is known to have existed. The places and events described correlate so well with reality, however, that it is almost certainly a genuine, if embellished, account. A ghost writer is thought to have been involved in preparing the diary for publication, and many scholars believe that to have been none other than Daniel Defoe. See page 442 for further reading on Robert Drury.

ROBERT DRURY Hilary Bradt



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In many ways the Merina Kingdom at this time paralleled that of the Inca Empire in Peru: Andrianampoinimerina was considered to have almost divine powers and his obedient subjects were well provided for. Each subject was given enough land for his family’s rice needs, with some left over to pay a rice tribute to the king, and community projects such as the building of irrigation canals were imposed through forced labour (though with bonuses for the most productive workers). Th e burning of forests was forbidden.

Conquest was always foremost in the monarch’s mind, however, and it was his son, King Radama I, who fulfi lled his father’s command to ‘take the sea as frontier to your kingdom’. Th is king had a friendly relationship with Britain, which in 1817 and 1820 signed treaties under which Madagascar was recognised as an independent state. Britain supplied arms and advisers to help Radama conquer most of the rest of the island.

LONDON MISSIONARY SOCIETY To further strengthen ties between the two countries, the British Governor of Mauritius, which had recently been seized from the French, encouraged King Radama I to invite the London Missionary Society to send teachers. In 1818 a small group of Welsh missionaries arrived in Toamasina (Tamatave). David Jones and Th omas Bevan brought their wives and children, but within a few weeks only Jones remained alive; the others had all died of fever. Jones retreated to Mauritius, but returned to Madagascar in 1820, along with equally dedicated missionary teachers and artisans, to devote the rest of his life to its people. Th e British infl uence was established and a written language introduced for the fi rst time (apart from some ancient Arabic-script texts) using the Roman alphabet.

’THE WICKED QUEEN’ AND HER SUCCESSORS Radama’s widow and successor, Queen Ranavalona I, was determined to rid the land of Christianity and European infl uence, and reigned long enough (33 years) to largely achieve her aim. Th ese were repressive times for the Malagasy as well as foreigners. One way of dealing with people suspected of witchcraft or other evil practices was the ‘Ordeal of Tangena’ (see box, page 435).

It was during Queen Ranavalona’s reign that an extraordinary Frenchman arrived in Madagascar: Jean Laborde. Building on the work of the British missionaries he introduced the island to many aspects of Western technology. He remained in the queen’s favour until 1857 – much longer than the other Europeans (see box, page 436).

Th e queen drove the missionaries out of Madagascar and many Malagasy Christians were martyred. However, the missionaries and European infl uence returned in greater strength aft er the queen’s death and in 1869 Christianity became the offi cial religion of the Merina Kingdom.

Aft er Queen Ranavalona I came King Radama II, a peace-loving and pro-European monarch who was assassinated aft er a two-year reign in 1863. Th ere is a widely held belief, however, that he survived strangulation with a silk cord (it was taboo to shed royal blood) and lived in hiding in the northwest for many years (see box, page 395).

Aft er the death of Radama II, his widow Queen Rasoherina came to the throne, but the monarchy was now in decline and power shift ed to the prime minister, who shrewdly married the queen. He was overthrown by a brother, Rainilaiarivony, who continued the tradition by marrying three successive queens and exercising all the power. During this period, 1863–96, the monarchs (in title only) were Queen Rasoherina, Queen Ranavalona II and lastly Queen Ranavalona III.

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THE FRENCH CONQUEST Even during the period of British infl uence the French maintained a long-standing claim to Madagascar and in 1883 they attacked and occupied the main ports. Th e Franco-Malagasy War lasted 30 months, and was concluded by a harsh treaty making Madagascar a form of French protectorate. Prime Minister Rainilaiarivony, hoping for British support, managed to evade full acceptance of this status but the British government signed away its interest in the 1890 Convention of Zanzibar. Th e French fi nally imposed their rule by invasion in 1895. For a year the country was a full protectorate and in 1896 Madagascar became a French colony. A year later Queen Ranavalona III was exiled to Algeria and the monarchy abolished.

Th e fi rst French governor-general of Madagascar, Joseph Simon Gallieni, was an able and relatively benign administrator. He set out to break the power of the Merina aristocracy and remove the British infl uence by banning the teaching of English. French became the offi cial language.

During the late 1930s, German Nazis and many European anti-Semites wanted to rid the continent of Jews. Their solution to the ‘Jewish Question’ was their wholesale deportation to Madagascar. What became known as ‘The Madagascar Plan’ was fi rst discussed as early as November 1938, a year before the outbreak of World War II. (As Madagascar was a French colony one can only wonder at the degree of collusion between the French and German governments over this proposal.)

The annexation of Poland in 1939 brought yet more Jews under German administration. This led to a revival of The Madagascar Plan and prompted the President of the Academy of German Law – Hans Franc – to suggest that as many as three million Jews should be shipped to Madagascar. This would have meant the German occupation of the island and this was certainly discussed in 1940 within days of the fall of France. Indeed, Franz Rademacher of the German Foreign Offi ce drew up fi rm arrangements for installing the Jews in Madagascar in September 1940, and he planned to visit the island to map out the details.

It was intended that the island would be under the authority of Heinrich Himmler though largely administered by the Jews themselves. Franc, in a speech in July 1940, even claimed that Jewish leaders had accepted The Madagascar Plan. But the Jews had been deceived if they thought that Madagascar had been chosen as the place for a sustainable Jewish homeland. Madagascar was to be a vast ‘reservation’ in which, because of the harsh climatic and agricultural conditions, the Jews would slowly die out. Some have gone even further and suggested that Madagascar was to be the place where the mass extermination of the Jews – with the gas chambers, ovens and all the associated paraphernalia of the death camps – would take place. Certainly the remoteness of Madagascar would have provided the Germans with privacy for conducting such atrocities.

Until well into 1941 The Madagascar Plan was Germany’s stated ‘Final Solution’. It was only when the Royal Navy’s mastery of the seas made the plan impractical that exportation gave way to extermination and another, more terrible, Final Solution to the Jewish Problem took its place.

John Grehan is the author of The Forgotten Invasion (see page 442).

MADAGASCAR AND THE JEWS OF EUROPE John Grehan



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BRITISH MILITARY TRAINING AND THE TWO WORLD WARS Britain has played an important part in the military history of Madagascar. During the wars which preceded colonisation British mercenaries trained the Malagasy army to fi ght the French. During World War I, 46,000 Malagasy were recruited for the Allies and over 2,000 killed. In 1942, when Madagascar was under the control of the Vichy French, the British invaded Madagascar to forestall the possibility of the Japanese navy making use of the great harbour of Diego Suarez (see box, page 352).

In 1943 Madagascar was handed back to France under a Free French government. A Malagasy uprising against the French in 1947 was bloodily repressed (some 80,000 are said to have died) but the spirit of nationalism lived on and in 1960 the country achieved full independence.

THE FIRST 40 YEARS OF INDEPENDENCE Th e fi rst president, Philibert Tsiranana, was pro-France but in 1972 he stepped down in the face of increasing unrest and student demonstrations against French neocolonialism. An interim government headed by General Ramanantsoa ended France’s special position and introduced a more nationalistic foreign and economic policy.

In 1975, aft er a period of turmoil, a military directorate handed power to a naval offi cer, Didier Ratsiraka, who had served as foreign minister under Ramanantsoa. Ratsiraka established the Second Republic, changing the country’s name from Th e Malagasy Republic to Th e Democratic Republic of Madagascar. He introduced his own brand of Christian-Marxism and his manifesto, set out in a ‘little red book’, was approved by referendum. Socialist policies such as the nationalisation of banks followed. Within a few years the economy had collapsed and has remained in severe diffi culties ever since. Ratsiraka was nevertheless twice re-elected, though there were claims of ballot rigging and intimidation.

Albert Zafy defeated Ratsiraka in elections in 1993, but his Th ird Republic was to be short-lived. Th e constitution was revised but Zafy refused to accept the limitations on his presidential role and continued breaches of the constitution led to his impeachment in 1996. In the ensuing election former president Ratsiraka emerged the winner, and he promptly piloted through major amendments to the constitution restoring most of the dictatorial powers he had formerly enjoyed.

POLITICAL CRISIS OF 2002 Th e results of the 2001 elections were disputed, with victory being claimed by both Ratsiraka and his main rival, mayor of Antananarivo (Tana) Marc Ravalomanana. Ravalomanana installed his own ministers in government offi ces and Ratsiraka retreated with his government to his hometown of Toamasina. Th e world looked on as the farcical situation of one country with two presidents and two ‘capital cities’ descended into stalemate. In an attempt to gain the upper hand, Ratsiraka’s supporters isolated Tana by dynamiting the bridges on the main transport routes into the city. Th e people of Tana faced a tenfold increase in the price of fuel and food staples. As the months passed, the blockade caused hardship, malnutrition and death. Flights were grounded and many businesses faced bankruptcy.

Eventually the balance of power shift ed, Ratsiraka fl ed to France, and the international community recognised Ravalomanana as rightful president. Once safely in offi ce, Ravalomanana set about rebuilding the infrastructure, launching an ambitious road-building programme, and putting in motion a plan to triple protected areas. He is also credited with signifi cant improvements in education, health and the reduction of corruption.

As a successful businessman, Ravalomanana understood well the importance of promoting foreign trade and investment; Madagascar’s import and export markets

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increased massively during his presidency. But his business approach to politics was also to contribute heavily to his eventual downfall, as the line between his personal business interests and those of the country became increasingly blurred.

POLITICAL CRISIS OF 2009 Well into Ravalomanana’s second term in offi ce, the young mayor of Tana, Andry Rajoelina, made an unexpected challenge to his presidency. Angered by government actions against his radio and television network, Rajoelina mustered suffi cient military and popular support to stage a coup d’état. He seized the moment as public outrage came to a head following Ravalomanana’s attempted leasing of a huge tract of Malagasy land to a South Korean company for agricultural purposes and his purchase of a second jet airliner, believed to be mostly for his personal use.

In a dramatic series of events in early 2009, demonstrations turned violent, stores were looted and the turning point came when guards opened fi re on protesters outside the presidential palace, killing dozens. Th e Central Bank’s coff ers were raided by armoured military vehicles and at a crucial moment the French Embassy in Tana gave refuge to Rajoelina when it looked as if he might be arrested for fomenting violence and riot. Finally on 21 March 2009 in a huge ceremony in the capital Rajoelina declared himself president of the so-called High Transitional Authority (HAT). Ravalomanana fl ed to mainland Africa when the HAT vowed to capture and imprison him. Most of the international community refused to recognise Rajoelina as the legitimate leader of Madagascar. Western countries froze non-humanitarian aid and Madagascar was suspended from both the African Union and the Southern African Development Community.

Despite the HAT’s stated role being to keep order whilst swift ly organising democratic elections, few were surprised their fi rst action was instead to rewrite the constitution. Th irty-fi ve-year-old Rajoelina lowered the minimum age to stand for president from 40 to 35, and added a requirement that presidential candidates be resident in Madagascar (thus eliminating his only serious opponents – former presidents Ratsiraka, Zafy and Ravalomanana – who were now all living abroad). Crisis talks were repeatedly derailed and proposed election dates came and went time and time again over the next few years. Meanwhile, an impoverished Malagasy population became even poorer as economic output declined, foreign investment slowed to a trickle and tourist income fell.

Eventually presidential elections went ahead at the end of 2013 and, unsurprisingly given that there were 33 candidates in the running (necessitating A3-sized ballot papers), none gained suffi cient support for an outright win. Th e two top candidates – one considered to be a puppet of Rajoelina and the other of Ravalomanana – thus went head to head in a second round, with Hery Rajaonarimampianina (Rajoelina’s man) narrowly winning with 53% of the vote.

While election day itself ran smoothly and was declared free and fair by international observers, neither side played by the rules in the run-up to it and both accused the other of massive fraud. Eye-watering sums of money were spent on pre-election campaigning, including vast amounts of media time and several helicopters were acquired for electioneering tours. One independent survey of 20,000 electors found nearly half had received gift s (such as T-shirts or money) from at least one party. Yet the origin of these funds is shrouded in mystery and many believe the only plausible source of such huge sums is the sale of illegally logged precious rosewood (see page 321).

Rajaonarimampianina assumed the presidency on 25 January 2014, receiving brief international media attention for having the longest surname of any head of



11

state in the world. Rajoelina announced the following month that he would not seek the prime ministerial position, as many had feared. Th is, coupled with the return of democratic rule, opened up the way for the election of a radiologist called Roger Kolo as prime minister, and for international aid to resume at long last.

GOVERNMENT AND POLITICSMadagascar is governed by a presidential system, but the powers of the president have varied under the diff erent constitutions adopted over the last 50 years. At independence the constitution was based closely on the French, with the president head of the government as well as head of state. Under the ‘socialist revolution’ (1975–91) Ratsiraka had virtually dictatorial powers, supported by large majorities for his AREMA party in the National Assembly. Th e strength of older left -wing parties prevented him from establishing a formal one-party state, but the constitution provided that only socialist parties could compete in elections. Aft er his overthrow in 1991 the pendulum swung to a parliamentary constitution similar to the German or the British, with a largely ceremonial president and power vested in a prime minister elected by the National Assembly. But this was eff ectively destroyed by Zafy’s refusal to accept the constitutional limits on his power and when Ratsiraka subsequently returned to power he essentially reverted the constitution to its previous form.

Since colonial times the country has been divided for purposes of local government into six provinces, each consisting of hundreds of communes or municipalities with governors and prefects appointed by the central government.

An important factor in politics has been the coastal people’s mistrust of the Merina who conquered them in the 19th century. Th e numerical superiority of the coastal people has ensured their dominance of parliament and government. When Ratsiraka was in trouble in 1991, and again in 2002, he stirred up coastal hostility to the Merina. However, the emergence of Ravalomanana as the fi rst Merina elected president indicated that the coastal/plateau divide has become less signifi cant. Rajoelina, who seized control in 2009, is also from Merina roots.

ECONOMY Over the past 50 years Madagascar has declined from being modestly prosperous to becoming one of the poorest countries in the world. Around 93% of the population lives on less than US$2 a day. Under Tsiranana’s post-independence government, a combination of careful management and political stability produced a steady growth in GNP and an improvement in living standards. However, from the late 1970s Ratsiraka’s unwise policies of nationalisation and centralisation, coupled with a worsening of the terms of trade following successive oil-price shocks, led to the collapse of the economy. For 25 years the average GNP growth was zero so that, with the population doubling, living standards were halved. Reluctant recourse to the IMF and its policies of austerity and liberalisation led to some improvement in the late 1980s but the disruptions of successive political crises checked and sometimes reversed this recovery.

Madagascar has always had an adverse balance of trade, but in the post-independence days the defi cit was modest and covered by various payments from France. Th e economic collapse under the Second Republic greatly increased the defi cit, and the country has since been dependent on massive support from the IMF, World Bank, EU and various bilateral donors led by France and the USA.

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Th e local currency, the franc malgache, was maintained in parity with the French franc long aft er its real value had declined. In 2003 the franc was replaced by the ariary. Ravalomanana’s abolition of a wide range of import taxes, designed to stimulate the economy, led in the short term to a rapid increase of imports without a corresponding rise in exports. Th e consequent increase in the trade gap caused a spectacular collapse of the currency in the fi rst half of 2004, with the ariary losing over half its value.

France has long been Madagascar’s biggest trade partner, and is still the recipient of almost a third of its exports. A further fi ft h of exports go to other European countries. Exports to the USA increased hugely during the early 2000s, peaking at 36% of Madagascar’s total sales, as a result of the African Growth and Opportunities Act (AGOA) that permitted some African states to export duty-free goods to the US. Madagascar was suspended from AGOA following the coup and so that fi gure has now fallen to just 8%. Trade with China, on the other hand, is rapidly increasing: that portion of the export market has swelled tenfold to around 10% over the last decade.

Th e economy was always based on agriculture, with rice by far the largest crop, once providing enough to feed the population and even leave some over for export. However, under the Second Republic the severe decline in the road infrastructure isolated many rice growers and low offi cial prices discouraged them from growing a surplus, instead leading them to revert to a subsistence economy. Rice production accordingly failed to keep pace with the growing population so that the country now has to import at least 15% of its needs, at considerable expense in foreign exchange.

Th e main cash crops for export have been vanilla, sugar cane and cocoa beans, as well as fruit such as lychees. Coff ee was once a big earner, responsible for 19% of the country’s export revenue in the mid-1990s, but the industry has since collapsed to less than a tenth of that size. Prawns, either fi shed or farmed along the west coast, have become a major export item over the last two decades, typically making up 10% of Madagascar’s exports. Textiles and clothing make up a massive proportion of exports: offi cially some 46% in 2012.

Much hope has been invested in tourism, and with the doubling of visitor fi gures in seven years things were looking promising until the 2009 coup decimated the industry. By 2012, tourism had still only recovered to 68% of 2008 levels.

Th e hitherto small mining sector has recently exploded with the discovery of large deposits of gems and minerals but, partly because of uncertainty about the future coupled with government corruption, the economy has not benefi ted as much as it should have. Nevertheless, revenue from exports of petroleum/mineral products, stone and metals almost quadrupled between 2000 and 2010. Several major mining projects, principally for ilmenite, nickel and cobalt, have come online in the past fi ve years, and plans to exploit other deposits are in the pipeline. Rises in global oil prices have also triggered interest in substantial reserves, which were hitherto uneconomical to extract.

Th e 2009 coup had a devastating eff ect on the country’s economy. A World Bank report four years on emphasised how seriously the Malagasy have been impacted. If the economy had continued at its pre-crisis rate then GDP would have been 20% (US$8 billion) higher in 2013 than 2008. Instead, per capita incomes have fallen back to 2001 levels.



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Diurnal (day-active) lemurs are the largest and easiest to identify. They are usually found in groups of between three and 12 individuals. In many of the island’s renowned wildlife locations two or more species can been seen relatively easily.

RINGTAILED LEMUR (Lemur catta) Instantly recognisable by its banded tail. More terrestrial than other lemurs and lives in troops of up to 20 animals in the south and

southwest, notably in Anja Park, Isalo, Andohahela and Andringitra national parks, and Berenty Reserve.

RUFFED LEMURS (genus Varecia) Large lemurs commonly found in zoos but diffi cult to see in the wild. There are

two species and both live in eastern rainforests: the black-and-white ruff ed lemur is found

sporadically in pristine areas and can sometimes be seen in Mantadia and

Ranomafana national parks, and on Nosy Mangabe, while the red ruff ed lemur is restricted to Masoala and Makira.

TRUE LEMURS (genus Eulemur) All are roughly cat-sized, with long noses, and live in trees. A confusing characteristic is that males and females of most species have somewhat diff erent markings and coat colours. The well-known black lemur (E. macaco), from northwest Madagascar, notably Nosy Komba and Lokobe, is perhaps the best example. Only males are black; females are chestnut brown. Visitors to Ranomafana and Mantadia often see

red-bellied lemurs (E. rubriventer); males have white tear-drop face-markings, while females have creamy-white bellies. In far northern reserves crowned lemurs (E. coronatus) are common: males are sandy-brown, females are grey, and both

sport triangular crowns.The species of brown lemur present the ultimate challenge, but fortunately their ranges do not overlap, so locality helps identifi cation. In most cases males are more distinctively marked and look quite diff erent from females which tend to be uniformly brown. Two neighbouring male brown lemurs have beautiful cream or white ear-tufts and side whiskers: Sanford’s

brown lemur (E. sanfordi) is found in far northern reserves, while the white-fronted brown lemur (E. albifrons) occurs in the northeast and males have bushy white heads and Santa Claus like side whiskers. Further south you will fi nd common brown lemur (E. fulvus) in both the east (eg: Andasibe-Mantadia

DIURNAL LEMURS Nick Garbutt

Ring-tailed lemur

Black-and-white ruff ed lemur

Collared brown lemur



61

National Park) and the northwest (eg: Ankarafantsika). Red-fronted brown lemurs (E. rufus) live in the southeast and southwest. The males of the two variations of collared brown lemur (E. collaris and E. cinereiceps) unsurprisingly have distinctive tufty fur collars and both occur in far southeastern areas, but the latter has an extremely restricted range and is very rare.

BAMBOO LEMURS (genera Hapalemur and Prolemur) Smaller than the true lemurs, with short muzzles and round faces. They occur in smaller groups (one to four animals), cling to vertical branches, and feed mainly on bamboo. You may see the commonest species, grey bamboo lemur (H. griseus), in several eastern parks including Marojejy, Andasibe-Mantadia and Ranomafana. The very much rarer golden bamboo lemur (H. aureus) and greater bamboo lemur (P. simus) are, realistically, only seen at Ranomafana.

INDRI (Indri indri) The largest lemur and the only one with virtually no tail. This black-and-white teddy-bear lemur is unmistakable, having a characteristic eerie wailing song. It is seen in and around Andasibe.

SIFAKAS (genus Propithecus) Sifakas belong to the same family as the indri, and have characteristic long

back legs. Some sifakas (pronounced sheefahk) are the famous dancing lemurs that bound upright over the ground and leap spectacularly from tree to tree. The commonest sifakas are mainly white and are quite unmistakable. Verreaux’s

sifaka (P. verreauxi) shares its southern habitat with

the ring-tailed lemur, while its cousin the Coquerel’s sifaka

(P. coquereli), which has chestnut-maroon arms and legs, is seen at

Ankarafantsika in the northwest. You may also see the stunningly beautiful diademed sifaka (P. diadema) in Mantadia and the rich chocolate-coloured Milne-Edwards’ sifaka (P. edwardsi) at Ranomafana.

Grey bamboo lemur

Indri

Verreaux’s sifaka

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Because they are generally smaller than the diurnal lemurs (sometimes very tiny) and active primarily after dark, the various types of nocturnal lemur are often more challenging to identify. However, night walks in Madagascar’s forests are safe and very exciting as you can never really be sure what you might discover. Two types of nocturnal lemur – sportive lemurs and woolly lemurs – often helpfully sleep or doze in the open during the day so are regularly seen by tourists.

MOUSE LEMURS (genus Microcebus) This group are the smallest of all primates: the most minuscule is Madame Berthe’s mouse lemur (M. berthae) which could sit in an egg cup and weighs 30g. As a group these are the most abundant type of lemur and are generally common in virtually all native forests types, they even survive in some forest fragments where other lemurs have disappeared. There’s now quite a number of species (21 at the last count), which makes accurate identifi cation confusing and diffi cult. The easiest places to see them are Andasibe-Mantadia and Ranomafana national parks in the east and Ankarafantsika, Ankarana and Berenty reserves in drier areas.

DWARF LEMURS (genera Cheirogaleus, Mirza and Allocebus) Dwarf lemurs are mostly squirrel-sized and run along branches in a similar fashion. Some, like the fat-tailed dwarf lemur (C. medius), become dormant during the winter, sleeping in tree holes and surviving on reserves of fat stored in their tails. Dwarf lemurs from the genus Cheirogaleus have distinctive

dark spectacle-like rings around their eyes which helps identifi cation.

Giant dwarf lemurs (genus Mirza) are unusual as they are sometimes predatory and eat baby birds, frogs, lizards and even small snakes. For a long time it was through the hairy-eared dwarf lemur (A. trichotis) was exceedingly rare; it now turns out to have been overlooked and is actually quite widespread; it can even be seen in Andasibe-Mantadia National Park. It is about

the size of a large mouse lemur, but look out for its distinctive ear-tufts.

FORKMARKED LEMURS (genus Phaner) These lemurs prefer to live high in the canopy so are often rather diffi cult to see and identify. Their distribution is also somewhat sporadic. Perhaps

NOCTURNAL LEMURS Nick Garbutt

Brown mouse lemur

Greater dwarf lemur

Eastern fork-marked lemur



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the best places to look are the dry western forests like Kirindy and Zombitse. The dark fork markings on the face are highly distinctive.

SPORTIVE LEMURS (genus Lepilemur) Sportive lemurs mostly spend the day in tree holes from which they peer drowsily. Their name is something of a misnomer as they are rarely particularly energetic, even at night. They cling vertically to tree trunks and, after dark, their high-pitched calls are often a feature of the forests they inhabit. Recently scientists have described many new species (the genus now contains 26 species) and in appearance they are often very

similar. The best guide for identifi cation is locality.

WOOLLY LEMURS (genus Avahi) Woolly lemurs also adopt a vertical posture and are similar in size to

sportive lemurs, but have round, owl-like faces and conspicuous white thighs. They often sleep in the tangled branches of trees. Many park guides use ‘woolly lemur’ and ‘avahi’ interchangeably as the common name. One recently described species is named after British comic actor John Cleese: Cleese’s woolly lemur (A. cleesei) is currently known

only from Tsingy de Bemaraha National Park.

AYEAYE (Daubentonia madagascariensis) This gargoyle of a lemur is Madagascar’s most bizarre mammal. Many people think aye-ayes are small, but in fact they are larger than a domestic cat and have huge bushy tails. However, it is their face and hands that make them unique; with teeth like a rabbit’s, ears like a bat’s and fi ngers like Edward Scissorhands’ there is nothing else to compare. Once thought to be on the brink of extinction but now known to be quite widespread (albeit at low densities), it is theoretically possible to see one in many reserves. The chances are extremely slight but you could get lucky. For more on the aye-aye, see the box on page 58.

Aye-aye

Western woolly lemur

Small-toothed sportive lemur

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BANDRO PARK Th e main reason to come to Lake Alaotra these days is to visit Bandro Park at Andreba and to support this ecotourism project. Bandro is the Malagasy name for the rare and locally endemic Lac Alaotra gentle lemur. In order to see them you will need to book an early-morning pirogue trip, which is also a good way to see the area’s aquatic birds. A two-hour guided boat tour on the lake and into the park costs 10,000Ar per two-person pirogue (plus park entry fee of 10,000Ar/person). Th e best time to visit is from March to June when the water level is highest.

Andreba is 45 minutes from Ambatondrazaka by taxi-brousse (2,000Ar). Camp Bandro (% 26 347 87; m 034 13 834 80/034 10 147 60; e [email protected]; €) has two double rooms and a campsite (5,000Ar/tent) with a kitchen area but no restaurant.

THE SMUGGLERS’ PATH Occasional adventurers come to Lake Alaotra in order to hike the Smugglers’ Path to the east coast. It’s very tough, very steep and very deforested so not particularly rewarding. Th e route takes four to fi ve days, beginning in Andromba, and passing through Ambohitromby, Manambato, then various small villages before ending in Anjahambe. From there taxi-brousses go to Vavatenina, and thence to the east coast. Voahirana hotel in Ambatondrazaka can arrange guides.

ZAHAMENA NATIONAL PARKZahamena is a wonderful, but remote and thus little-visited, national park (% 57 300 24; m 033 07 666 12/034 49 401 52; e [email protected]). Its 64,370ha protects 13 lemur species (including indri), more than 100 varieties of reptile and amphibian, 112 birds and a diverse range of fl ora – including two locally endemic ferns.

Access is usually from the east: from Ambatondrazaka it is a 70km drive to the park offi ce at Antanandava (2hrs) then 8km to the park entry at Ankosy on a track that is passable in a 4x4 from July to November (otherwise it’s 2hrs on foot). It is also possible to reach the park from the east coast around Fenoarivo, where there is another offi ce. Guides and porters are available, but best arranged in advance. Th ere are two circuits of roughly 6km (3hrs) each, with camping possible for 2,000Ar/night. You will need to bring all your own supplies. See page 76 for permit prices. Madagascar Tour Guide (see page 89) can organise visits.

MORAMANGA TO ANDASIBEContinuing east on RN2, the turning for Andasibe is at PK 136, just 23km beyond Moramanga. Along this stretch it is interesting to stop at Ambolomborona (PK 124) to visit Hôtel Juema, a traditional hotely. You can take a tour of the family business to watch the fascinating process of bamboo furniture being made. Th ere is no fee but they expect a small donation if you don’t make a purchase.

ANDASIBE AREASince the late 1990s the long-established reserve of Analamazaotra Forest, sometimes known by its colonial name of Périnet, has been co-managed with Mantadia (20km to the north) as Andasibe-Mantadia National Park. Because of its proximity to Tana and its exceptional fauna, this is now one of Madagascar’s most popular reserves. Th e moist montane forests are home to a wide variety of lemurs, birds, reptiles and invertebrates. Also in the area are several independently managed protected areas, most notably Mitsinjo Forest.

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M a n t a d i aN a t i o n a l Pa r k

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EulophiellaReserve

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Orchid Garden

Park office

Mitsinjo office

Croc Park

Lemur Island

Falierana

Anevoka

Amboasary

Andasibe

Antananarivo(133km)

Toamasina(213km)

Moramanga,Antananarivo

ToamasinaGraphitemines

Nickel mine pipeline

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PROTECTED AREAS NEAR ANDASIBE

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Where to eat and drinkFrania Esperance.............14 B6

B6A4B6B7B6A6B6B6B5B5B5

B3B5

Where to stayAndasibe Forest Lodge..............................Andasibe Hotel...............Chez Luc............................Eulophiella Lodge..........Feon'ny Ala.......................Grace Lodge....................Indri Lodge.......................Marie Guesthouse..........Mikalo.................................Orchidée............................Relais du Rail....................Vakôna Forest Lodge..............................Vohitsara...........................

For listings, see pages 275–6

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Although the vast majority of visitors spend one or two nights here it is possible to visit Andasibe as a long day trip from Tana. You will need to leave by 06.00 at the latest to arrive in time to see and hear the indri.

Be aware that in the winter months (May–Aug) it can feel very cold in Andasibe, and indeed it can get chilly at any time of year so bring warm clothing as well as waterproofs.

Andasibe village is really just a simple Malagasy village – no bank, no taxis ... although there is now a cybercafé: Indritech/Vohikal@ (www.vohikala.net). Th e village is 3.5km from RN2 and 2km beyond the park offi ce. At the post offi ce, you can watch bats emerging at dusk (see box, page 64).

GETTING THERE AND AWAY Plenty of taxi-brousses ply RN2 from Tana, but taking one direct to the junction for Andasibe is expensive (20,000Ar). Far cheaper and not much slower is to get one to Moramanga (5,000Ar), then fi nd local transport for the last few kilometres (2,000Ar by taxi-brousse). Madasmiles (m 034 13 515 53; e [email protected]; www.madasmile.com) run buses from Tana with a hotel-to-hotel service for around 40,000Ar. A more comfortable option is the air-conditioned buses of TLM (m 034 02 340 02/03; e [email protected]; www.travelinemadagascar.com).

Th e train journey from Moramanga takes 45 minutes, and from Toamasina it’s nine hours or so. Th e Micheline makes the trip from Tana some weekends (see page 268).

WHERE TO STAY AND EAT Th ere are now hotels to suit every budget as well as the possibility of camping. Th ere are tent shelters (7,000Ar/tent) at Mitsinjo Forest (where you can also hire tents) with access to hot showers. Camping is also permitted at the entrance to the national park and on the lawn at Feon’ny Ala. For location of listings see map opposite.

A Andasibe Hotel (20 bungalows) m 034

14 326 27/034 05 326 27; e infos@andasibehotel-

resto.com; www.andasibehotel-resto.com. Opened

in 2010, this is now Andasibe’s best hotel. Spacious

en-suite rooms with beautiful décor, heater,

minibar, safe & terrace. Small swimming pool &

massage available; bike hire. €€€€–Ç

A Vakôna Forest Lodge (24 bungalows)

% 22 624 80; m 033 02 010 01; e vakona@moov.

mg; www.hotelvakona.com. The name is Malagasy

for the Pandanus plant. Thoughtfully designed,

with an octagonal reception area, bar & lounge-

dining room with central log fi re. Bungalows

are quiet & comfortable, with hot-water bottles

provided in winter. The lodge owns a little island

which is a sanctuary for ex-pet lemurs & a small

zoo. €€€€€A Eulophiella Lodge (17 bungalows) % 22

242 30; m 032 07 567 82; e eulophiellandasib@

eulophiella.com; www.eulophiella.com. About

600m towards Tana along RN2 from the Andasibe

junction is the start of the 5km track to this hotel

named after an endemic orchid. Well-spaced

en-suite bungalows in 2 sizes. Recommended

restaurant. There’s a small private reserve where

night walks are possible. €€€€A Indri Lodge (21 bungalows) m 034 06 340

89/033 11 311 49; e [email protected]; www.

indrilodgeandasibe.com. New in 2011, the en-suite

bungalows are in a garden next to RN2. Restaurant

& swimming pool. €€€€A Grace Lodge (9 bungalows) % 24 308 66;

m 034 12 887 73/032 05 308 66/033 03 308 66;

e [email protected]; www.

grace-lodge.com. Run by a friendly English-

speaking Malagasy woman. Lovely bungalows

in meticulously maintained grounds with small

swimming pool & on-site chapel! Car & bike hire.

‘The best place I stayed in Madagascar’, says reader

Les Parkes. €€€–€€€€A Andasibe Forest Lodge (10 bungalows)

% 22 261 14; m 033 03 150 25; e mea@moov.

mg, [email protected]. Built in 2010 by the

owners of Feon’ny Ala, but separately managed by

A

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MEA. En-suite bungalows set around a small lake

facing a forest. €€€A Mikalo (15 bungalows) % 56 832 08;

m 033 11 696 92/033 11 817 85; e mikalo.

[email protected]. We have received very variable

reports from readers about the bungalows but the

restaurant is good. €€€A Orchidée (7 rooms) % 56 832 05; m 034

36 024 49; e [email protected]. In

Andasibe village. Overpriced sgl, dbl & trpl rooms.

Restaurant with poor service. €€€A Chez Luc (7 rooms & 4 bungalows) m

034 10 948 82; e [email protected]. New

guesthouse with simple rooms with shared

facilities & nice en-suite bungalows. Meals next

door at Chez Marie. €€–€€€A Feon’ny Ala (44 bungalows) % 56 832 02;

m 032 05 832 02/034 05 832 02. It is a popular

place in a prime location facing the national park –

close enough to hear the indri call, hence the name

which means ‘voice of the forest’. Most bungalows

en suite but 6 cheaper ones with shared facilities.

No heaters for colder months. Good restaurant.

Camping for 10,000Ar/tent. €€–€€€

A Marie Guesthouse (13 rooms & 1

bungalow) m 034 18 094 19/034 91 547

22; e razafi [email protected]; www.

guesthousemarieandasibe.com. Elegant new

guesthouse next door to Chez Luc (Marie & Luc are

siblings). En-suite rooms with hot water & Wi-Fi.

Large handicraft shop. €€–€€€A Vohitsara (14 rooms) m 033 14 899

69/034 15 854 24; e [email protected],

[email protected]. Excellent budget B&B run

by the aff able Mama Bozy & family. Clean comfy

rooms; shared facilities with hot water. €€A Buff et de la Gare (Relais du Rail) (7 rooms & 9 suites) www.madarail.mg. Andasibe’s

oldest hotel, located in the village train station,

boasts such distinguished former guests as

Prince Philip, Gerald Durrell, David Attenborough,

Pres Houphouët-Boigny of Côte d’Ivoire & Pres

Tsiranana of Madagascar. It has been closed for

some years but MadaRail are in the throes of

restoring it as we go to press.

X Frania Esperance m 034 45 753 46. A

simple malagasy eatery on RN2 opposite Andasibe

turning.

ANDASIBE NATIONAL PARK (% 53 327 07; e [email protected]) Th is 810ha reserve protects the largest of the lemurs (Indri indri). Standing about a metre high, with a barely visible tail, black-and-white markings and a surprised teddy-bear face, the indri looks more like a gone-wrong panda than a lemur. Th e long back legs are immensely powerful, and an indri can propel itself 10m, executing a turn in mid-air, to hug a new tree and gaze down benevolently at its observers. And you will be an observer; everyone now sees indris here, and most also hear them. For it is the voice that makes this lemur extra special: whilst other lemurs grunt or swear, the indri sings. It is an eerie, wailing sound – a cross between whale song and a siren – and it carries for up to 3km as troops call to each other across the forest. Th ey generally call at dawn, mid-morning, and sometimes shortly before dusk. During the middle of the day they take a long siesta in the canopy.

Th ere are 11 species of lemur altogether in Andasibe, although you will not see them all. You may fi nd grey bamboo lemurs, common brown lemurs and perhaps a sleeping avahi (woolly lemur) curled up in the fork of a tree. Diademed sifakas and black-and-white ruff ed lemurs have been translocated here from Mantadia and from forest cleared to make way for the Ambatovy nickel and cobalt mine.

In addition to lemurs there are tenrecs, beautiful and varied insects, spiders and reptiles – especially chameleons and boas. Birdwatchers will want to look out for the velvet asity, blue coua and nuthatch vanga.

Leeches can be an unpleasant aspect of the reserve when pushing through vegetation if it’s been raining recently. Tuck your trousers into your socks and apply insect repellent, which will help keep them at bay.

Th e trails in Andasibe have been carefully constructed, but there is quite a steep ascent (up steps) to the plateau where the indri are found, and to follow these animals you may have to scramble a bit.



277

Night walks are not allowed in the national park itself (but are in neighbouring Mitsinjo Forest), though it’s worth going on a guided nocturnal stroll along the road for the frogs and chameleons which are easier to see at night.

Permits and guides Th e park offi ce (( 06.00–16.00) and visitor centre are midway between RN2 and Andasibe village. Here you can buy your tickets (prices on page 76) and arrange a guide. Th e Andasibe guides are among the best in Madagascar and an example to the rest of the country for knowledge, enthusiasm and an awareness of what tourists want. All the guides know where to fi nd indri and other lemurs, but if you have very particular interests – birds, amphibians or plants, say – let them know at the desk; many of the guides have specialist expertise.

Circuits range from two hours (15,000Ar for the guide per group of up to six) to fi ve hours (35,000Ar).

MITSINJO FOREST (m 033 14 520 80/033 16 170 89/034 96 876 74; e [email protected]; ( 07.00–17.00 & 18.30–21.00) While off ering broadly the same attractions as the national park, this fabulous local NGO is promoting reforestation and other conservation measures. Th ey also operate the reserve of Torotorofotsy (see page 279) and have an excellent handicraft s shop at their park entrance.

Situated just over the road from Andasibe National Park, this 700ha tract of Analamazaotra Forest is home to seven groups of indri, a couple of which are habituated. Walks here are thrilling, not only for the ease with which a wide variety of wildlife can be seen, but also the professionalism and enthusiasm of the guides and the work that the association is doing. Chris Howles agrees: ‘We look back at the 4½-hour trek we did as one of the highlights of the holiday. Our guide spoke good English and had a very good knowledge of all the local fl ora and fauna. He worked hard to fi nd everything for us, including of course a family of indri. Th ey came really close to us and we stayed with them for about 45 minutes, stopping when our necks started to ache from all that looking up in the trees!’

One circuit, the Reforestation Trail, off ers visitors the chance to plant an endemic tree. Mitsinjo has six tree nurseries, some of which you can visit. Th ousands of seedlings of 151 endemic species are being raised to help re-establish corridors between blocks of isolated forest (see box, page 278).

One of the big highlights here is the night walks – highly recommended (especially since the national park forbids aft er-dark visits). Derek Schuurman reports that ‘Goodman’s mouse lemur is readily seen; your chances of seeing reptiles such as Parson’s chameleons and Uroplatus geckos are better here and you are bound to see a lot of frogs and other nocturnal creatures.’

In addition to reforestation work, Mitsinjo has set up Madagascar’s fi rst amphibian captive-breeding facility (see page 52), operates an environmental education campaign at six local schools, and has ongoing community projects in family planning and providing local villages with wells to access clean water.

Permits, guides and transport Here your guide and permit are included in a per-person ticket price for each circuit. For this reason, Mitsinjo generally works out more economical than the national park for solo travellers. Trails range from one to fi ve hours and cost 25,000–50,000Ar per head; night walks cost 15,000Ar (1½hrs). Th e park offi ce is 250m from that of the national park, towards RN2 on the opposite side of the road. Forest guides are freelance so many of those who work in the national park are also accredited to work in this forest too.

Mitsinjo has a 4x4 vehicle which may be hired (with driver) for transfers:

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50,000Ar to Vakôna Forest Lodge, Moramanga or Vohimana Reserve; 90,000Ar (day return) to Mantadia National Park or Torotorofotsy; 250,000Ar to Tana; and 350,000Ar to Toamasina.

ORCHID GARDEN (( 07.30–12.00 & 13.30–17.00) Next to the road, between the park offi ces and Andasibe village, this small lake is a particularly attractive spot

Rainer Dolch, Coordinator at Association MitsinjoOver the last hundred years or so, population growth and poverty have taken their toll on Madagascar’s eastern rainforest belt. The increasing need for timber, charcoal and new agricultural land has led to extensive deforestation. This loss of trees contributes to greenhouse gas emissions and climate change (both local and global), which further exacerbates poverty and environmental degradation in a downward spiral.

One of the larger remaining forests is Ankeniheny-Zahamena, which is soon to gain protected status. But even this has become severely fragmented, especially around the village of Andasibe. Forest fragmentation spells disaster because numerous isolated patches of forest cannot support the same diversity of species as a single larger one. When an area of forest gets cut off , the wildlife it contains risks becoming inbred and these small populations are less able to recover from problems such as outbreaks of disease and cyclones. Extinctions are inevitable.

Association Mitsinjo has been a driving force to halt deforestation in the region by reconnecting fragments with forest ‘corridors’ and improving livelihoods for local people. Reforestation activities were kickstarted by the innovative Andasibe Forest Restoration Project (known by its Malagasy acronym TAMS). In partnership with international and national NGOs, as well as government agencies, more than 25 nurseries grew some 500,000 seedlings of 150 mostly endemic trees each year. More than a million trees were planted and local farmers voluntarily made parts of their fallow land available for reforestation, benefi tting both in terms of security of land tenure, as well as other forms of sustainable and more productive agriculture provided by the project.

TAMS unfortunately terminated prematurely, before carbon credits could be traded via the World Bank, but it is envisaged to trade them on the voluntary market so farmers can benefi t in terms of direct payments. Tourists can already off set their carbon emissions by donating directly to the project or by actively planting rainforest tree seedlings. Continuity of the forest restoration project is ensured by a new partnership with the Finnish Association for Nature Conservation. Benefi ts to both biodiversity and local communities will soon be studied by the Ecological Services for Poverty Alleviation, a collaboration of British and Malagasy universities and scientifi c institutions.

The project fi ts into Mitsinjo’s philosophy of conservation work going hand in hand with rural development. Working closely with local communities on agricultural and health issues is the key to success. Several conservation and research projects are carried out together with local communities, the most signifi cant success being protection of the greater bamboo lemur, one of the world’s rarest primates, rediscovered in the area by Mitsinjo in 2007.

MITSINJO AND THE ANDASIBE FOREST CORRIDOR PROJECT



279

in October and November. Being a joint project between the national park and Mitsinjo, visitors who have purchased a permit from either may visit it.

VOI MMA (e [email protected]) Th is small 28ha portion of forest is managed by a newly formed group of local guides. Furry-eared dwarf lemurs, Goodman’s mouse lemurs, snakes, frogs and chameleons may be seen here. Walks cost 20,000–30,000Ar and short night walks are also possible (12,000Ar). A larger proportion of the ticket price goes to the guides than at the other parks, where more of the funds are used for conservation activities.

TREE CLIMBING (m 034 91 548 35/033 14 198 79/034 15 854 24; e [email protected]) Dilifera Manantsoavina, based at the Mitsinjo offi ce, runs GasiClimb. Activities include zip-line, rope ladder, tree climbing, canopy nets and hammocks. You can get right into the canopy and even spend the night up there sleeping in a hammock! Whether you are interested in enjoying the climbing as an adventure sport or simply using it as a means to get up into the rainforest canopy to see the wildlife there, the experience can be tailored to your needs and level of fi tness. Prices range from 30,000Ar to 100,000Ar. Try to book at least a day in advance.

MANTADIA NATIONAL PARK While Andasibe is for almost everyone, Mantadia (several times larger and 20km to the north) is for the enthusiast. Th e trails are rugged but the rewards are exceptional. Mantadia varies more in altitude (800–1,260m) than the more popular section and consequently harbours diff erent species. What makes it so special is that, in contrast to Andasibe, it comprises virtually untouched primary forest. Th ere are 12,000ha with just a few constructed trails – visitors must be prepared to work for their wildlife – but this is a naturalist’s gold mine with many seldom-seen species of mammals, reptiles and birds.

You may see the beautiful golden-coloured diademed sifaka and some indri (curiously much darker in colour than in Andasibe). Some of the trails are steep, but the eff ort is rewarded with gorgeous views across the forest and super birdwatching possibilities, including specials such as the scaly ground-roller, pitta-like ground-roller and red-breasted coua.

To do justice to Mantadia you should spend the whole day there, leaving at dawn and taking a picnic. Guides and permits are arranged at the Andasibe park offi ce and you will need your own transport; guides can help you fi nd a vehicle (75,000–100,000Ar) or you can enquire at Mitsinjo’s offi ce.

TOROTOROFOTSY RESERVE Th is marsh 11km west of Andasibe – an important part of any birding trip – was declared a Ramsar Site in 2005. Including forest as well as wetlands, the 9,800ha reserve is also famous for its rare (but easily seen) golden mantella frogs and a population of even rarer greater bamboo lemurs.

It’s an excellent area for trekking and has three bungalows as well as a camping area. Enquire at Mitsinjo to organise a visit; see page 277 if you need transport. One day costs 60,000Ar, but night walks are very rewarding so it is worth going for longer.

MAROMIZAHA RESERVE (% 22 660 48; m 034 87 015 44; e [email protected]; entry 15,000Ar pp) Located 5km from the Andasibe turning on RN2, Maromizaha (meaning ‘much to see’) is being rehabilitated as a 1,850ha area of protected forest with EU funding under the co-management of GERP, the Malagasy primate study group. Th ere are some beautiful trails and the opportunity to see similar wildlife

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to that found at Mantadia. Th ere is a cave full of fruit bats and botanists will be interested to see the locally endemic marola palm. Ask the guides at Andasibe to help organise a visit; camping is possible.

On the southeast side of Maromizaha, about three hours’ hike south of RN2, is Vohidrazana, a virtually unexplored rainforest with no trails. Extremely adventurous travellers could hook up with some guides to mount an expedition here.

VOHIMANA RESERVE PK 149 (% 22 674 90; e [email protected]; www.madagascar-environnement.com) Th is forest reserve east of Andasibe is protected through a partnership between local villagers and the NGO Man And Th e Environment (MATE). Th ey are working towards reducing the local community’s dependence on slash-and-burn farming.

Th e rainforest here has a great range of elevations (700–1,080m) and consequently species diversity is correspondingly high, especially in reptiles and amphibians. In fact, this 1,600ha site is thought to have the richest diversity of endemic frogs of any area its size worldwide; Vohimana is home to more than 80 amphibian species. Reptiles are similarly plentiful, star among them being the Pinocchio chameleon – an extraordinarily prolifi c fi bber if his impressive nasal dimensions are any indication! Th is is just one of several species found here that does not occur at Andasibe. Lemurs number 11 varieties, including indri and red-bellied lemurs.

You can divide your time between seeing what MATE is doing to help Madagascar’s environmental crisis, such as visiting the tree nursery (these saplings are used to establish forest corridors linking isolated areas of forest), the essential oil distillery which demonstrates that revenue can be earned from the leaves of trees without having to cut them down (www.huiles-essentielles-madagascar.com), the model farm running trials with new agricultural methods – and searching for wildlife.

Th ere are half a dozen walking circuits varying from two to 12km (1–3hrs), passing through beautiful rainforest, cultivated fi elds and spectacular viewpoints. Some of the trails follow the railway line and a century-old disused tunnel is now adopted by four bat species as their home.

The reserve has some simple accommodation with shared facilities and a nice communal dining area. Accommodation and meals should be prebooked.

Vohimana is on the north side of RN2 about 15km past the turn-off to Andasibe, near the village of Ambavaniasy. Th e trailhead is just before PK 149. Walking to the reserve takes about 45 minutes from RN2, but with a private vehicle you can take a new mine road part of the way, cutting the walk to 20 minutes.

ANDASIBE TO BRICKAVILLETh e start of the journey from Andasibe down to Toamasina is lovely, taking you through lush, mist-enshrouded rainforest. Th is eventually gives way to eucalyptus woods, and those in turn to savoka (secondary vegetation) dotted with travellers’ palms, and then fi nally bozaka – the stubbly grassland that results from continual slash-and-burn.

Aft er passing through Ampasimbe (PK 178), which has a large market, and Antongombato (PK 191), you reach Ranomafana (PK 205) – this is a name encountered oft en in Madagascar since it simply means ‘hot water’. Here it refers to a natural hot spring that is considered sacred by locals, who use it to ask for blessings from the ancestors. Th e path is just beyond the village before the bridge; ask for directions to ‘la source sacrée’.



top Labord’s chameleon showcases one of many spectacular ‘noses’ in the chameleon world (LJ)

above left The panther chameleon is one of the most varied and vibrantly coloured species (LJ)

above right Adult stump-tailed/leaf chameleons (Brookesia) range from 18mm to 99mm in length (DA)

below Twig-mimic snakes have extraordinary ‘noses’. This is a female; the male’s nose is sharply pointed (HB)

Day geckos (above right), with their neon colours, are hard to miss, while the satanic leaf-tailed gecko (above left) looks for all the world like a dried leaf (both MS)

right Radiated tortoises abound at Madagascar’s southernmost point, the dramatic Cap Sainte Marie (DA)

below left Heterixalus madagascariensis is one of several hundred Malagasy frogs (DA)

below right Boophis viridis is easily seen around Andasibe (DA)

448

Index

Bold indicates main entries; italic indicates maps; NP = national park; SR = special reserve

Access Madagascar Initiative 139

accommodation 103–5 see also individual towns

Accueil Villageois 185, 187, 193–4

Adansonia see baobabsAdenia 41, 418Aepyornis 36 eggs 109, 244, 250–1AIDS 118, 120Air France 91–2, 173Air Madagascar 91–2, 98, 100,

101, 173air travel 91–2, 98, 100, 101airlines 91–2, 173Airtel 112Akany Avoko 156ala volon-jaza ceremony 23Alaotra, Lake 64–5, 71, 73,

271–3, 272Alarobia, Lake 177Alluaudia 39Alluaudiopsis 39aloalo 19, 27, 216Aloe 40, 70Ambalavao 108, 208–10Ambanja 365–6Ambariomiambana 324Ambatofi torahana 198Ambatofotsy (Ankaratra) 187Ambatofotsy (RN7) 185Ambatolampy 185–7Ambatolaona 269Ambatoloaka 369, 372–4,

379–81Ambatomilo 242Ambatondrazaka 267, 272–3Ambatoria 412Ambatotsirongorongo 250Ambatovaky SR 309Ambatry 248Amber Mountain see Montagne

d’Ambre NPAmberiotelo 389Amberiotrandraka 389Ambila-Lemaitso 283, 287–8Ambilobe 362–3Amboasary 249Ambodiamontana 270

Ambodibonara 282Ambodifahitra cave 180Ambodifotatra 333, 335–6, 340Ambodiriana Reserve 310Ambohibao, Lake 150Ambohidrabiby 180Ambohidranandriana 194Ambohidratrimo rova 155Ambohimahamasina 210–12Ambohimahasoa 198Ambohimalaza 269Ambohimanga 6, 20, 149, 179Ambohimangakely 269Ambohitantely SR 181Ambohitra see Joff revilleAmbohitrombikely, Fort 401Ambohitsara 288–9, 438Ambola 246Ambolomborona 273Ambondro 249Ambondro, Lake 429Ambondromamy 409Ambondrombe, Mount 210–11Amborovy 401Ambositra 194–7, 196Ambovombe 249ambulance 112, 175 see also

medical servicesAmpangorinana 385Ampanihy 248–9Ampanihy Forest 340Ampanotoamaizina 283Ampasilava 431Ampasimanolotra see BrickavilleAmpasimbe 280Ampasindava Bay 386Ampefy 142, 182amphibians 50–1Ampijoroa see Ankarafantsika

NPAmpitabe, Lake 283–7Anakao 243–5, 245Analakely 159Analalava 409Analalava Reserve 307Analamazaotra see Andasibe-

Mantadia NPAnalamera SR 354, 358Analamerana see Analamera SRAnalavory 182

ancestor worship 13–20, 68, 234, 255

Andalatanosy 219Andapa 326, 327Andasibe (village) 268, 274,

275–6Andasibe-Mantadia NP 274,

276–7, 279 birding 56Andavadoaka 141, 429–31Andoany see Hell-VilleAndohahela NP 252, 264–5Andovobazaha Bay 347–8, 350Andrafi amena-Andavakoera 358Andraikiba, Lake 193Andrambovato 208Andranofasika 404Andranofotsy 314Andranojoby, Lake 402Andranokoditra 283, 287Andranomafana 193Andranomandraotra geysers 182Andranomena SR 421Andranomilitsy caves 218–19Andranopasy 429Andranovory 223, 248Andreba 273Andrew Lees Trust 139, 262Andriakera, Lake 248Andriamamovoka 270Andriambilany 185Andrianampoinimerina, King

6–7, 21–3, 149, 179Andrianjaka, King 149, 179Andringitra NP 82, 212–15, 213Androka 247Andry Lalana Tohana 139ANGAP see Madagascar

National ParksAnglo-Malagasy Society 139,

446angonoka 72–3, 404animals see wildlifeAniribe 342Anivorano 358, 365Anja (Anjaha) Park 210Anjahambe 273, 308Anjajavy 407Anjanaharibe-Sud SR 327,

330–1



449

Anjohibe caves 400, 402Anjozorobe 180Ankafobe Forest 405Ankanin’ny Nofy see Ampitabe,

LakeAnkarafa Forest 411Ankarafantsika NP 402–4, 403 birding 57 Angonoka Project 54, 404Ankaramena 214Ankarana NP 354, 358–62, 359 bat-watching 64 caving 83 fl ora 418Ankaratra Massif 37, 187Ankavandra 414, 433Ankify 366–7Ankizy Gasy 139Ankodida 250Ankosy 273Annet, Armand 353Anony, Lake 249ant lions 422Antafofo waterfalls 193Antaifasy 24Antaimoro 24, 292 paper 170, 207–9Antaisaka 18, 24Antalaha 320–2Antambahoaka 24Antanambe 310Antanambo 282Antananarivo 148, 149–78, 152,

157, 160–1 accommodation 151–4,

162–5 airport area 150–8, 152 history 149 nightlife 168–9 restaurants 154–5, 166–8 shopping 169–72 sightseeing 175–8Antanandava 273Antanavo, Lake 358Antandroy 6, 24, 216, 256 tombs & funerals 18–19, 218Antanetiambo Reserve 326–7Antanimora 219 see also Nosy

AntanimoraAntaninarenina 159Antankarana 18, 23, 25, 343Antanosy 25, 218, 254–5Antoetra 198–9Antongil Bay 311–13, 317, 338Antongombato 280Antsahadinta 180Antsalova 412Antsampanana 280–1Antsepoka 427, 431Antshow 178Antsirabe 187–94, 188, 268Antsiranana 343–50, 346 British occupation (1942)

352–3Antsohihy 73, 409arachnids 47–8, 123arboreta 140, 203, 233, 264 see

also botanical gardens

Arboretum d’Antsokay 140, 233archaea 48Association Mitsinjo 52, 277–9astrology 19–20 see also vintanaATMs 96 see also banksAttenborough, David 141, 276,

356, 443Avahi 63Avenue des Baobabs 45, 421aye-aye 58, 63Aye-Aye Island 311Azafady 118, 140

backpacking 79, 94–5, 105Baie de Baly NP 406Baie Sainte Luce 264bamboo craft work 170, 194, 273bamboo lemurs 49, 61, 202Bandro Park 273bank holidays 107–9banks 96, 172baobabs 44–6 Amoureux 421 Avenue des 45, 421Bara 25–6Baramahamay Bay 367bargaining 111Barren Islands 412–13Batainomby 406bats 64–7batteries 95, 135beaches 84–5Bealanana 412Beanka Forest 414beer 107, 193Befandriana Nord 412begging 136–7Beheloka 246Behenjy 185Bekodoy 242Bekopaka 413–17Belazao 193beliefs see customs, religionBelobaka caves 402Beloha 249–50Belo-sur-Mer 426–8Belo-sur-Tsiribihina 417–19Bemaraha, Tsingy de 412–17,

416 fl ora 418Bemarivo River 324–5Bemosary 406Benyowski, Count 320Beradaka Park 326Beraketa 219Berangomaina Point 367–8Berenty 251–6, 253Beronono 223Beroroha 223, 433Betafo 193Betanty see Faux CapBetioky 248Betroka 219Betsileo 18, 26, 199Betsimisaraka 26, 297Bevan, Th omas 7Bevontsira waterfall 319Beza-Mahafaly SR 248

Bezanozano 26Bigorne, La 334bike hire 102–3 see also cyclingbilharzia 120biodiversity 35BirdLife International 405birds 54–7birdwatching 56–7bites & stings 115, 119, 122–3,

241black lemurs 49, 60, 387blind fi sh 247Blue Ventures 135, 140–1, 428,

430–1boas 52, 144boat travel 4, 92, 100, 372Boeny-Ampasy 405Boina Bay 405boneturning 16–18, 85books buying in Tana 172 further reading 441–5bookshops 172, 445Boriziny 409botanical gardens 155, 177,

179, 186, 190, 239, 263, 322, 324, 350, 400, 417 see also arboreta

boutres 408brewery 193Brickaville 281Brookesia 50, 356brown lemurs 60–1, 387budget travel 79, 95, 97, 104–5butterfl ies 47, 109

Cameron, James 149, 436Camp Bandro 273camp stoves 95, 172camping 81, 94–5, 105Canal des Pangalanes 283–90,

286Cap d’Ambre 354Cap Est 319Cap Sainte Marie SR 65, 250car factory 207car hire see vehicle hirecarbon footprint 134cargo boats 408carnivores 65–7, 142carving 19, 109–11, 170, 195,

198, 255cash machines see ATMscatamarans 372cattle 14, 211 see also markets

(cattle)cave-diving 247caving 82–3, 218–19, 350, 361,

402, 406–7cellphones 111–12Centre Fihavanana 140, 177Centre ValBio 203chameleons 50, 53, 67changing money see moneycharities 139–46children, travelling with 131cholera 117, 122Chute de la Lily 182



450

chytrid fungus 52cichlids 49cinema 111, 169circumcision 23, 289Cirque Rouge 400–1civets see carnivoresclimate 3–5, 5climbing 82, 350 rock- 354 tree- 177, 269, 279 via ferrata 222, 417clinics see medical servicesClos Nomena 108, 165cloudforest 69coelacanths 233coff ee 46, 92, 107, 322, 326communications 111–12conservation 71–5, 139Conservation International 140coral reefs 50, 71, 135, 430 bleaching 428Corsair 91–2, 173couas 54, 56–7couriers 112Courrier’s Bay 352, 354credit cards 96, 125 see also

bankscrime 124–8Croc Farm 155crocodiles 54, 155, 397 cave-dwelling 360 extinct 36 in folklore 14, 358cruising expedition 78 yacht charters 372cuisine 105–7currency 12, 92, 96–7 see also

bankscustoms 13–20cybercafés 112cycads 38cycling 80–2, 103cyclones 4cyclo-pousses 102Cyphostemma 42

Darafi fy 300Daraina 363Darwin, Charles 40, 55day geckoes 50deforestation 68, 278, 321dentists 117, 174–5 see also

medical servicesdiarrhoea 93, 117, 119–20, 124Didierea 39Diego Suarez 343–50, 346 British occupation (1942)

352–3dinosaurs 36disabled travellers 130diving 83–5, 83, 135 safety 125, 241doctors see medical servicesDodwell Trust 142dolphins 67Donia festival 375dragon tree 46

drinks 105–8driving licences 102Drury, Robert 6dugongs 67, 310Durrell Wildlife Conservation

Trust 55, 72–3, 142, 272dwarf lemurs 62

eating 105–7economy 11–12Ejeda 248electrical plugs 95elephant bird see Aepyornisembassies 90–1, 126, 175Emerald Sea 352–3emergencies see medical

services, policeessential oils 155, 280, 292, 400ethnic groups 24–9, 25 see also

individual groupseucalyptus 47Euphorbia 39, 418Evatraha 264evolution 33–4, 47, 56–9exchange rates 96–7 see also

banksexhumation 16–18, 85exports 2, 12, 92–3extinction 36, 49, 72–3

fady 14–15, 24–9, 138falanouc 66famadihana 16–18, 85family travel 131FANAMBY 180, 358, 363, 421Fandriana 197fandroana 23fanorona 170Farafangana 292–3, 293Farankaraina Park 314fauna see wildlifeFaux Cap 249–51fax services 173FCE train 208Feedback Madagascar 68, 142,

198, 234Fénérive Est 273, 308Fenoarivo Atsinanana 273, 308ferns 38, 69festivals 23–4 Donia 375 Festivanille 322 Kabiry 362 Lemurs 314 Mitsaka 306 Rebeke 249 Sorogno 365 Vagnono 365 Zegny’Zo 350Fetraomby 306Fianar see FianarantsoaFianarantsoa 203–7, 205 FCE train 208fi sh 49–50fi shing 262, 294, 372–4fi tampoha 419Fitiavana 194fl ag, Malagasy 2

fl ights 91–2, 98–100, 101fl ora see plantsfl ying 91–2, 98–100, 101fl ying foxes 64, 67food & drink 105–8forest types 68–71Forêt d’Ambre SR 354, 355fork-marked lemurs 62Fort Ambohitrombikely 401Fort Dauphin 256–65, 258, 261fossa 66–7, 142, 315, 419–21Foulpointe 307francs (FMG) 96French conquest (1895) 8, 149French Mountain 350frogs 50–1fruit bats 64, 67Furcifer 50

Gallieni, Joseph Simon 8gap year see volunteeringgay & lesbian 131geckoes 50gemstones 92, 109, 224–5gentle (bamboo) lemurs 49,

61, 202geology 35–8Geysers of Andranomandraotra

182giant jumping rat 65, 419–21gift -giving 96, 137–8golf 155–6, 300, 307, 374, 410 mini- 156, 189, 191, 235,

305, 351, 401Gondwana 33–7, 33government 9–12Grande Mitsio 386, 389group travel 78guides, park 76, 97

haggling 111hainteny 28handicraft s 109, 111, 170Hastie, James 297, 343, 435hats 22health 115–24helicopter hire 88, 399Hell-Ville 376–9, 377HerpetoGasy BioBlitz 54highlands 148, 184hiking 82hira gasy 110, 169, 186history 5–11, 435–7HIV 118, 120Ho Avy 240holidays, public 107–9homosexuality 131Honko 239–40horseriding 155, 181, 192, 197,

207, 222, 300, 305, 340, 374, 401

hospitals see medical serviceshotels 103–5humpback whales see whales

Ialatsara Lemur Forest Camp 199

Ifasina 198



451

Ifaty 236–40, 237 birding 57Ifotaka Community Forest

252, 256iguanas 52, 419Iharana 363–5Ihosy 218Ikongo 29Ilafy 179–80Ilakaka 223–5Ile aux Nattes 332, 341–2Ile aux Prunes 306Ile aux Sables 306Ile Sainte Marie 332, 333–42illness 115–22Imarivolanitra 212, 214Imerimandroso 272immunisations 117independent travel 78–9 see also

lone travellersindri 61, 276–7insects 47insurance 117, 125internet 112invertebrates 47–9Isalo NP 219–22, 221Isoanala 219Isoraka 159–62Itampolo 246–7Itasy, Lake 182itineraries 83–6Ivato Airport 150–8, 152Ivohibe 292Ivoloina, Parc 58, 143, 306–7

jasmine 46Jehovah’s Witnesses 156jellyfi sh 241Jersey Zoo see Durrell Wildlife

Conservation TrustJoff reville 356Jolly, Alison iv, 121, 253–4, 374,

387, 442–3Jones, David 7jumping rat 65, 419–21

Kabiry festival 362Kalanchoe 41Karenjy cars 207Katsepy 400–1kayaking 83, 372, 374Kenya Airways 91–2, 173key to maps viiKidd, William 178, 334, 441Kinkony, Lake 395, 405Kirindy Reserve 416, 418–21Kirindy-Mitea NP 416, 428–9kit list 93–6kitesurfi ng 85, 237, 240, 242–4,

351–2, 374

Laborde, Jean 7, 19, 22, 149, 179–81, 395, 436

lakes see individual lakeslamba 21, 26, 109, 142, 171lamba hoany 21lambamena 18, 21language 30–1, 438–40

offi cial 2, 8 origins 13 written 7Lariam 115Lavanono 250Lazan’i Betselio 108, 207–8leaf-tailed geckoes 50leeches 47, 123–4, 329lemurs 57–64 balding 254 behaviour 49, 59, 387 diurnal 60–1 extinct 36 feaces 94 feeding 374 festival 314 identifi cation 60–4 nocturnal 62–3 pet 121, 136 rabies risk 121 vocalisation 59, 61, 276Lemurs Park 178–9Lepilemur 63Les Quatre Frères 389–90lesbian & gay 131Leucaena 254Libertalia (beer) 107Libertalia (colony) 178, 343lighthouses 250, 306, 318–19,

340, 342, 351, 354, 388, 390, 395, 400

Linta River 246–7LMS 7, 436, 442logging 321Lokaro 264Lokobe Reserve 375London Missionary Society 7,

436, 442lone travellers 79–82 female 128–9 male 129Lopary 293luggage 93 lost 151 securing 98, 127–8luxury travel 78, 103

Macolline 322Madagascar National Parks 73,

75–6, 176Madagasikara Voakajy 64–5Madalief 190, 194MadaRail 173, 267–8Madiorano 240magazines 446Mahabo-Mananivo 293Mahafaly 19, 26–7, 216, 247–8Mahafaly Plateau 83Mahafanina waterfalls 402Mahajanga 395–402, 396Mahamasina (Ankarana) 360–1Mahamasina (Tana) 170Mahambo 307–8Mahanoro 288Mahasoa 248Mahavavy River 433Mahavavy-Kinkony Wetland

Complex 405–6

Mahavelona 307mail 112Maintirano 412Majunga 395–402, 396Makay Massif 222–3Makira Natural Park 314–16,

317Makoa 27Malagasy language 30–1, 438–40malaria 94, 115, 119Malarone 115Mamamba, Lake 150mammals 55–67Mampikony 409Manafi afy 264Manakara 208, 289, 290–2Manambato 283–5, 287Manambolo River 417, 433Manambolosy 311Mananara (village) 311Mananara-Nord NP 65, 310–11Mananjary 289–90Manantantely 262Manantenasoa 176Manantenina (Marojejy) 327Manantenina (southeast) 295Mandena Conservation Zone

263Mandraka Park 269–70Mandrare River 6, 251, 254Mandrare Valley 251–6, 252Mandritsara 412–13Mangily 236, 237Mangindrano 412Mangoky River 223, 433Mangoro mangrove 244mangosteens 281Mangrove Information Centre

239–40mangroves 44, 71Manjakamiadana rova 176–7Manjakandriana 269Manjakatompo Forestry Station

186–7Manombo (west coast) 242, 427Manombo SR 292–3Manompana 309–10manta rays 373, 431Mantadia NP 274, 279Mantasoa, Lake 181maps, buying 172 list of maps viiimarkets 23, 170 book 172 cattle 182, 185, 210, 214, 249 fl oating 304 fl ower 170 handicraft 170 zoma 170Maroalika 406Maroantsetra 312, 313–14Marofandilia 421Marojejy NP 327–30, 327Maromandia 411Maromizaha Reserve 274,

279–80Maromokotro, Mount 3, 366,

412



452

Masikoro 216, 235, 239Masoala NP 316–19, 317 birding 56MATE 280, 287Matsaborimanga 360media see newspapers, televisionmedical kit 124medical services 112, 119 see

also dentists, pharmaciesmedicinal plants 20, 46, 170,

194, 234medicine, traditional 20, 234mefl oquine 115Menabe region 393, 412–31, 416Menagisy 358Menarandra River 246menu reader 105–6, 440Merina 6–8, 11, 18–19, 27, 149Miandrivazo 432–3Micheline 268Midongy du Sud NP 295Mikea 27, 216Mikoboka Plateau 83millipedes 47, 49mining 12 gemstones 193, 224–5 gold 363 ilmenite 239, 263 nickel & cobalt 276missionaries 7, 176, 436Mitsaka festival 306Mitsinjo Forest 274, 277–8 see

also Association MitsinjoMitsio islands 386, 389–90mobile phones 111–12money 96–7 see also banksMoney for Madagascar 143,

282, 291mongooses see carnivoresMont Passot 376Montagne d’Ambre NP 354–7,

355Montagne des Français 350Moramanga 270–1Moramba Bay 407–8Morarano 212Morombe 429Morondava 422–6, 424mosquitoes 94, 115, 119, 122moths 47 as pollinators 40, 44motorbike hire see vehicle hiremountain biking 80–2, 102–3mouse lemurs 62museums 85music 32, 110–11

Nahampoana Reserve 263Namakia 406Namoroka, Tsingy de 406–7,

418Nandihizania 269national parks see protected

areasnatural history 33–76, 443–5 see

also plants, wildlifenewspapers 446nightlife 85

Nosive, Lake 285Nosy Alanana 306Nosy Ambariovato 370, 373,

385–7Nosy Andilana 389Nosy Andravano 428Nosy Ankarea 389Nosy Ankazoberavina 390Nosy Antanimora 391Nosy Antsoha 389Nosy Antsoheribory 405Nosy Atafana 310Nosy Be 369–85, 370, 383, 386Nosy Beangovo 389–90Nosy Berafi a 391Nosy Betalinjona 389Nosy Betanihazo 389Nosy Boeny 405Nosy Boraha see Ile Sainte MarieNosy Dombala 306Nosy Fanihy 373, 389Nosy Hao 431Nosy Hara 354Nosy Ifaho 409Nosy Iranja 390Nosy Kalakajoro 391Nosy Kivinjy 390Nosy Komba 370, 373, 385–7Nosy Lango 409Nosy Lava (Antsohihy) 409Nosy Lava (Mitsios) 386, 390Nosy Lonja 344Nosy Mamoko 388Nosy Mangabe SR 318–19, 319Nosy Mitsio 373, 386, 389–90Nosy Nato see Ile aux NattesNosy Ovy 391Nosy Radama 373, 390–1, 410Nosy Ratsy 388Nosy Saba 410Nosy Sakatia 370, 373, 383,

387–8Nosy Satrana 246Nosy Soy 409Nosy Tanga 388Nosy Tanikely 370, 373, 388Nosy Toloho 409Nosy Tsarabanjina 373, 389Nosy Valiha 391Nosy Varika 288Nosy Ve 245Nosy Vorona 388

octopus tree 39, 42, 70octopuses 430Onilahy River 233, 236, 243, 433Opuntia 47Orange 112orchids 40–1

Pachypodium 39, 43, 70, 418Palais d’Andafi avaratra 177Palmarium Reserve 287palms 42–3Pandanus 43, 418Pangalanes Canal 283–90, 286Parc Endemika 340Parc Ivoloina 58, 143, 306–7

parrots 54, 67, 410–11Périnet see Andasibe-Mantadia

NPperiwinkle 46, 264permits (NP/SR) 75–6pharmacies 174–5phone numbers 111–12photography 95, 136–7phrases, useful 31, 439–40Pic Boby 212, 214Pic d’Imarivolanitra 212, 214Pic St Louis 262pirates 6, 14, 178, 297–8, 320,

334–6, 343pitcher plants 34, 38PK (Points Kilométriques) 98plague 122plants 38–47 dangerous 124 medicinal 20, 46, 170, 194,

234 succulent 39–42plated lizards 50plugs (electrical) 95PNM see Madagascar National

Parkspoetry see haintenypolice 112, 127–8, 365 museum 271politics 9–12population 2, 11Port Bergé 409post offi ces 112, 173postal service 112pousse-pousses 102poverty 2presents 96, 137–8press 446price bands 104prime minister’s palace 177protected areas 9, 73–76, 74 see

also individual protected areas

proverbs 30public holidays 107–9

QMM see miningQuatre Frères 389–90Queen’s palace 176–7

rabies 117, 120–22Radama I, King 7, 97, 149, 298,

343, 369, 401, 412Radama II, King 7, 110, 179, 395Radama Islands 373, 390–1, 410raffi a 22, 43, 109, 183–5railways 100, 208, 267–8rainfall 3–5rainforests 68–9Rainilaiarivony 7–8, 177Rajaonarimampianina, Hery

2, 10–11Rajoelina, Andry 10–11Rakotozafy 110Ramboasalama 149Ramena 350–1Ranavalona I, Queen 7, 149, 395Ranavalona II, Queen 7



453

Ranavalona III, Queen 7–8Ranobe-PK32 239, 427Ranohira 219Ranomafana NP 200–2, 201 birding 56Ranonda’s tomb 255Ranopiso Arboretum 264Rantabe 311–13Rasoabe, Lake 287Rasoherina, Queen 7Ratsimilaho, King 297, 334Ratsiraka, Didier 9–11Ravalomanana, Marc 9–12, 75Ravelobe, Lake 404Ravenala 43–4, 66razana 13–20, 68, 234, 255Rebeke festival 249Red tsingy 357–8ReefDoctor 145, 228, 239reefs see coral reefsreligion 2Reniala Forest 239reptiles 50–4reserves see protected areasrestaurants 97, 105 see also

menu readerrice 7, 12, 105–6, 199rickshaws 102Rigny Bay 357ring-tailed lemur 59–60, 215,

254, 387Rio Tinto see miningriver trips 432–3rivers see individual riversRN1 394, 412RN2 266, 267RN3 148, 180RN4 394, 397RN5 296, 362RN6 344, 362, 365, 409RN7 148, 183, 184, 216, 217RN10 217, 219, 248RN13 217, 218–19robbery 127–8rock-climbing 82, 350, 354rodents 65rosy periwinkle 46, 264rova 155, 176–7, 179–80, 187,

436ruff ed lemurs 60Russian Bay 367

safety 124–8Sahamalaza-Radama NP 410–11Sahambavy 207Sahambavy Tea Estate 207Sahasoa 310–11Saiadi Garden 263sailing 235, 264, 372, 389, 407–8Sainte Marie, Ile 332, 333–42Sakalava 6, 18–19, 29, 393–5,

401Sakalava Bay 351–2Sakaraha 224Salary 242Sambaina (RN2) 269Sambaina (RN7) 185, 187sambatra 23, 289

Sambava 322–5, 323Sandrandahy 197SAPM see protected areassapphires 223–5Sarodrano 233–5Sarodrano Cave 233scorpions 49, 123scuba diving see divingsea urchins 93, 122, 241Senecio 42Sept Lacs 236Seranambe 311sharks 50, 84, 241 whale 83, 367, 373shipping agents 112shopping 109–11, 169–72Sibree, James 71, 442sifakas 61, 328, 364Sihanaka 29silk 21, 180, 192, 197–8, 203, 210 spider 48Sirave, Lake 429sisal 251–3skinks 50slash-and-burn 68Smugglers’ Path 273, 308snakes 52, 123, 144 heaviest 407 sea 123, 241snorkelling 84–5, 122, 135, 235,

240, 244–6, 340, 373Soalala 406Soalara 243–4Soanierana-Ivongo 298, 308–9Soatanana 197–8Soavita Winery 210solo travel see lone travellersSorogno festival 365special reserves see protected

areasspiders 47–8, 123spiny forest 57, 70sportive lemurs 63St Augustine’s Bay 6, 216, 233–6 birding 57stamps (philatelic) 159Star Brewery 193stings & bites 115, 119, 122–3,

241stonefi sh 241strangler fi g 43striped civet 66succulents 39–42sunburn 93, 122surfi ng 85, 244, 250, 262,

307–8 see also kitesurfi ng, windsurfi ng

taboos see fadyTamatave 298–306, 299, 301Tampolo (Masoala) 316–18Tampolo Forest 308Tana see AntananarivoTanala 29Tandroy see AntandroyTaolagnaro 256–65, 258, 261Taolanaro see Taolagnarotapeworms 120

tar sands 414tarantulas 49tavy 68taxi-brousses 97–9, 127–8taxis 102telephones 111–12television 111Telma 112tenrecs 64–5THB 107theft 127–8thermal baths 187, 203Th ree Horses Beer 107time zone 2, 407tipping 97Toamasina 298–306, 299, 301Toliara 225–33, 227–8, 232tomato frog 51, 313tombs 15–20, 24–9, 85–6Torotorofotsy 274, 277, 279 birding 56Tortoise Village 239tortoises 14, 36, 54, 72–3tour operators 78, 86–90traditional medicine 20, 234trains 100, 208, 267–8transport 91–2, 97–103travellers’ cheques 96, 125,

127, 172travellers’ palm 43–4, 66tree ferns 38tree-planting 134, 180, 277, 287,

322, 409trekking 82tribes see ethnic groupsTritriva, Lake 193tromba 14, 27, 29, 393true lemurs 60–1, 387tsangatsaine ceremony 23Tsarabanjina 373, 389Tsaralalana 159Tsarasaotra Park 177Tsaratanana Massif 3, 5, 343,

366, 412Tsiandamba 242Tsimanampetsotsa NP, Lake

246–7Tsimbazaza (zoo) 58, 177Tsimihety 15, 29, 327Tsimororo 414tsingy 70, 418 see also red tsingyTsingy de Bemaraha NP 412–17,

416 fl ora 418Tsingy de Namoroka NP 406–7,

418tsingy, red 357–8Tsinjoarivo rova 187Tsinjoriake Protected Area 233–5Tsiombe 249Tsiranana, Philibert 9, 11Tsiribihina River 414, 417, 432Tsiroanomandidy 182Tulear 225–33, 227–8, 232turtles 54, 135 see also tortoises

Uncarina 42, 418Uroplatus 50



454

INDEX OF ADVERTISERSAdventure Associates 113Air Madagascar 114Andilana Beach Resort 3rd colour sectionAnkarana Lodge 3rd colour sectionAnkazoberavina Ecovillage 392Asisten Travel xAudley 2nd colour sectionBora Dive & Research 3rd colour sectionCactus Tours Madagascar 2nd colour sectionChez Maggie 3rd colour sectionCoco Lodge 3rd colour sectionCortez USA Tours & Travel 2nd colour sectionEncounter Madagascar 2nd colour sectionFeedback Madagascar 32Gassy Country House 2nd colour section

Hippocampe 331Holidays Madagascar 295Hotel Lavasoa 265Iharana Bush Camp 3rd colour sectionIsland Continent Cars 2nd colour sectionIsland Continent Tours 2nd colour sectionJenman Madagascar Safaris 76Kenya Airways 447Le Maki Lodge 392Le Suarez Hotel 3rd colour sectionMadagascar Endemics 76Madagascar Green Tours 113Madagascar Library 447Madagascar Natural Tours 368Madagascar Photography 447Madagascar Tour Guide 434Madagascar Visite 76Malagasy Tours 132Manafi afy Beach and Rainforest

Lodge 3rd colour sectionMandrare River Camp 3rd colour sectionMora-Travel 146Nature Lodge 368Okavango Tours & Safaris 113Olga del Madagascar 32Ortour 2nd colour sectionPrincesse Bora 3rd colour sectionPriori 132Rainbow Tours inside front coverRamartour 113Remote River Expeditions 2nd colour sectionSETAM Madagascar 215Terra Incognita Ecotours inside back coverUlysse Explorer 392Visit Mada Tours 434Wanderlust Magazine 454Za Tours 2nd colour section

Vagnono festival 365valiha 109–10, 178Vangaindrano 293–5vangas 55–7vanilla 2, 12, 92, 109, 322, 325vasa parrots 54, 67, 410–11Vatomandry 288Vavatenina 273, 308Vazimba 27vegetarian food 107vehicle hire 78–9, 102–3, 173–4Velondriake 430vetiver grass 208, 270Vezo 29, 67, 141, 216, 415, 430Victoria, Queen 48, 110, 177,

179, 281Vinanibe 262–4vineyards 108, 207–8, 210vintana 15visas 90, 150vocabulary 31, 438–40 see also

menu readerVohemar 363–5Vohibola Reserve 287Vohidrazana 280

Vohimana Reserve 274, 280Vohipeno 292volcanoes 35–7, 354voltage 95volunteering 82, 139–46

water, drinking 95, 97, 107, 117watersports 84–5weather 3–5Western Union 96wetlands 70–1whale sharks 83, 367, 373whales 67, 338–9whale-watching 333, 338–9what to take 93–6when to visit 77Wicked Queen see Ranavalona IWi-Fi 112wildlife 47–67 dangerous 123–4, 241Windsor Castle 353–4windsurfi ng 85, 240, 242, 262,

352, 374, 407wine 107–8women travellers 128–9

woodcarving see aloalo, handicraft s

woolly lemurs 63working in Madagascar 82World War I 9, 208World War II 8–9, 343, 352–3WWF 73, 146, 239, 250

xerophytes 42

yachting see sailingylang-ylang 292, 365

Zafi maniry 29, 198–9Zafy, Albert 9–11Zahamena NP 272, 273Zazafotsy 214zebu 14, 211 see also markets

(cattle)Zegny’Zo festival 350Zombitse-Vohibasia NP 224 birding 57Zoo Zürich 316, 318zoos 155, 177–8, 263, 270, 306,

340, 375, 400



“Indispensable”

The Sunday Telegraph

“Authoritative and scholarly”

The Observer

“This is no ordinary travel guide,

but a lively, informative, amusing

and sensitive account to be

enjoyed from cover to cover”

Lee Durrell, Durrell Wildlife

Conservation Trust

The original and most authoritative guide

Contributions by world-renowned naturalists

More maps, listings and travel information than any other Madagascar guide

Meet inquisitive ringtails and dancing sifakas

Spot some of the 390 species of endemic reptile

Relax on palm-shaded beaches

Daniel Austin has spent nearly two years travelling in Madagascar since 2004 and is

secretary of the Anglo-Malagasy Society. Hilary Bradt, founder of Bradt Travel Guides,

has visited the island more than 30 times.

Madagascar’s animals, people and landscape make it a place like nowhere else on earth. Head to its national parks and trek beside a tumbling river at Isalo, explore the rainforest of Montagne d’Ambre, and admire the limestone spires at Tsingy de Bemaraha. The island is best known for its spectacular wildlife: locate leaping lemurs in Berenty Reserve, photograph some of the 100+ endemic birds and perhaps discover a frog previously unknown to science.

First published in 1984, this guide has come to be recognised as the guide to Madagascar. Daniel Austin and Hilary Bradt draw on extensive research over 11 editions and share their knowledge of the island to help you make the very most of your visit.

MADAGASCAR

AT L A N T I C

O C E A N

Tropic of Cancer

Tropic of Capricorn

Equator

A F R I C A

Travel: Madagascar/AfricaISBN-13 978 1 84162 498 3

www.bradtguides.com

Additional online content and updates at www.bradtupdates.com/madagascar

f facebook.com/BradtTravelGuides t @BradtGuides

Published by:Bradt (UK) £17.99

The Globe Pequot Press (USA) US$27.99

Documents

Madagascar: The Bradt Travel Guide (11th edition)