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Kao C
hem
icals
Euro
pe
AMIDET® N In-Cosmetics 17-19th April 2012
Chemistry
INCI Name : PEG-4 Rapeseedamide
CAS Number : 85536-23-8
Character : non-ionic
R NH
OH
O
2.5
R = C17H33
Kao C
hem
icals
Euro
pe
AMIDET® N In-Cosmetics 17-19th April 2012
Products & Application ( 3)
Characteristics
Appearance (20ºC) : Clear Yellowish Liquid
Colour (Gardner) : < 4
pH ( 1 % product + 99 % H2O ) : 9.2 – 10.2
Amide (mv/g) : 1.64 – 1.75
Free Amine (mv/g) : 0.11 – 0.23
Water Content (KF; %) : 6.5 – 8.5
Viscosity (mPa.s/20ºC) : < 500
Refractive Index (nD25) : 1.4675 – 1.4705
1,4-Dioxane (ppm) : < 1
Kao C
hem
icals
Euro
pe
AMIDET® N In-Cosmetics 17-19th April 2012
Ecological Toxicity Properties
Fish Toxicity (OECD 203 : Zebra fish) : LC50 = 13 mg/l (96 h)
Daphnia Toxicity (OECD 404 : Daphnia Magna) : EC50 = 7 mg/l (48 h)
Aerobic Biodegradability (OECD 301B) : 71 % after 28 days
Anaerobic Biodegradability (ISO 11734) : 81 % after 56 days
SNF approval : Good Environmental Choice
Suitable for Eco-label and Nordic Swan labeled formulations
Kao C
hem
icals
Euro
pe
AMIDET® N In-Cosmetics 17-19th April 2012
LAUNCHED PRODUCTS
Products with AMIDET® N in its formula
Kao C
hem
icals
Euro
pe
AMIDET® N In-Cosmetics 17-19th April 2012
Products & Application ( 6)
Application Properties
Nitroso-amine free
Liquid
Better than cocamide DEA
SNF approval :
Good Environmental
Choice
Refatting Agent
…
Kao C
hem
icals
Euro
pe
AMIDET® N In-Cosmetics 17-19th April 2012
Thickening Agent : SLES/Thickener (3:1; 15 % a.m.)
Kao C
hem
icals
Euro
pe
AMIDET® N In-Cosmetics 17-19th April 2012
0 1 2 3 4 5% NaCl
0
100
200
300
400
500
600
700
800
900
1000
1100
1200
vis
c. (m
Pas a
t 20 °
C)
A B
Sodium Laureth-6 Carboxylate 7.5% 7.5%
Decyl Glucoside 7.5% 7.5%
Cocamide DEA 5.0% -
AMIDET N - 5.0 % B
A
Thickening Agent : SLES free formulations
Kao C
hem
icals
Euro
pe
AMIDET® N In-Cosmetics 17-19th April 2012
FOAM VOLUME
versus
Ross Miles : 0.1% a.m. SLES/Cosft.; 37°C ; 15° gH
0
50
100
150
200
250
0 5 10 15time (min.)
foam
heig
ht
(mm
)
AMINOL N cocos-DEA
Amidet® N Cocamide DEA
Amidet® N Cocamide DEA
Foam Booster
Kao C
hem
icals
Euro
pe
AMIDET® N In-Cosmetics 17-19th April 2012
Foam Booster for mixtures SLES / CAPB
185195
210192
0
20
40
60
80
100
120
140
160
180
200
220
SLES = Sodium Laureth Sulfate CAPB = Cocamidopropyl Betaine
3 SLES
1 CAPB
0.25 AMIDET N
Ross Miles Test : 0.1 % a.m.; 15 °gh; 25 °C; pH : 6.5
3 SLES
1 CAPB
3 SLES
1 CAPB
0.50 AMIDET N 3 SLES
1 CAPB
0.75 AMIDET N
Kao C
hem
icals
Euro
pe
AMIDET® N In-Cosmetics 17-19th April 2012
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100
% CO-SURFACTANT
MIO
I va
lue
s
AMIDET N
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Mild Surfactant : mixtures with SLES
Red Blood Cell Test (Ocular Irritation Potential)
SLES
CO-SURFACTANT
Kao C
hem
icals
Euro
pe
AMIDET® N In-Cosmetics 17-19th April 2012
Solubilizing properties
%w/w of solubilizer required to solubilize 1% of cosmetic oils
AMIDET® N Polysorbate-20PEG-40 Hydrogenated
Castor Oil
Cosmetic Oils
Olive oil 5 >10 5
Jojoba oil 10 >10 5
Isopropyl Myristate 1 5 1
Mineral Oil 10 >10 5
Cold-processable Hot-processable
AMIDET® N vs commonly used non-ionic solubilizers
AMIDET® N performs better than Polysorbate-20 and similar than PEG-40
Hydrogenated Castor Oil but with the advantage of the cold processing
Kao C
hem
icals
Euro
pe
AMIDET® N In-Cosmetics 17-19th April 2012
Synergistic combination between AMIDET N and
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Solubilizer 0.5% Jojoba Oil 2% Jojoba Oil
PEG-40 H Castor Oil Turbid White
AMIDET N Turbid White
Blend Clear Clear
These formulations have good foamability and good skin-care
properties.
12:7:1
AMIDET N : PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil : Water
Solubilizing properties
Kao C
hem
icals
Euro
pe
AMIDET® N In-Cosmetics 17-19th April 2012
AMIDET® N as Liquid Co-emulsifier
Due to its emulsifying properties in O/W systems, AMIDET N can
help to incorporate dimethicones efficiently into formulations.
The best combination to emulsify silicones is:
This blend is a clear viscous gel, easily
incorporated into formulations at room
temperature.
3:1:1
Silicone : AMIDET N : Water
Kao C
hem
icals
Euro
pe
AMIDET® N In-Cosmetics 17-19th April 2012
Products & Application ( 15)
Product Application
Liquid Soap
Baby Shampoo
Foaming Bath Oil
Hand Cleanser
Kao C
hem
icals
Euro
pe
AMIDET® N In-Cosmetics 17-19th April 2012
Products & Application ( 19)
Summary
Thickening agent (Nitrosamines free) for SLES based formulations
Thickening agent for very mild SLES free formulations
Foam Volume Booster for SLES / Betaine
Solubilizer for fatty alcohols into aqueous surfactant solutions
Solubilizer for oils into non-aqueous surfactant solutions
Emulsifier for silicone, paraffin & vegetable oils
Anti-cracking agent for soap & syndet bars