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US/CA EDITION YEAR 2 - ISSUE 1 · 2014 - PRICE: $5,95 US | $5.95 CAN $5,95 US | $5.95 CAN Display until 06-31-2014 WWW.GARDENCULTURE.NET

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The technique edition: soil techniques in hydroponics, SIP gardens, air pruning, TOP5 Hydro, etc..

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Page 1: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

US/CA EDITION YEAR 2 - ISSUE 1 · 2014 - PRICE: $5,95 US | $5.95 CAN

$5,95 US | $5.95 CANDisplay until 06-31-2014

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Page 2: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

This new group of state-of-the-art reflectors and fi xtures are designed specifi cally to accommodate Double-Ended 1000 watt HPS horticultural lamps.

The AC/DE is the only air-cooled double-ended reflector on the market. These lamps feature increased PAR values as well as excellent lumen and PAR maintenance

Agrotech Magnum DE

(up to 90% PAR maintenance after 10,000 hours). The full spectrum lamps focus on the red component for increased photosynthetic response. Prepare for the best crops and yields you have ever seen.

Check out our Check out our Check out our Check out our Check out our Check out our Check out our Check out our Check out our Check out our Check out our Check out our 1000 HPS Double-1000 HPS Double-1000 HPS Double-1000 HPS Double-1000 HPS Double-1000 HPS Double-Ended RefectorsEnded RefectorsEnded RefectorsEnded RefectorsEnded RefectorsEnded RefectorsEnded RefectorsEnded RefectorsEnded RefectorsEnded RefectorsEnded RefectorsEnded Refectors

AC/DE Super Sun DE Adjust-A-Wing DE Gavita Hortistar 1000 DE

Double DE Light Double DE Light Double DE Light Double DE Light Double DE Light Double DE Light Double DE Light Double DE Light Double DE Light Double DE Light Double DE Light Double DE Light

www.sunlightsupply.com

Gavita Pro 1000 DE

Page 3: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

This new group of state-of-the-art reflectors and fi xtures are designed specifi cally to accommodate Double-Ended 1000 watt HPS horticultural lamps.

The AC/DE is the only air-cooled double-ended reflector on the market. These lamps feature increased PAR values as well as excellent lumen and PAR maintenance

Agrotech Magnum DE

(up to 90% PAR maintenance after 10,000 hours). The full spectrum lamps focus on the red component for increased photosynthetic response. Prepare for the best crops and yields you have ever seen.

Check out our Check out our Check out our Check out our Check out our Check out our Check out our Check out our Check out our Check out our Check out our Check out our 1000 HPS Double-1000 HPS Double-1000 HPS Double-1000 HPS Double-1000 HPS Double-1000 HPS Double-Ended RefectorsEnded RefectorsEnded RefectorsEnded RefectorsEnded RefectorsEnded RefectorsEnded RefectorsEnded RefectorsEnded RefectorsEnded RefectorsEnded RefectorsEnded Refectors

AC/DE Super Sun DE Adjust-A-Wing DE Gavita Hortistar 1000 DE

Double DE Light Double DE Light Double DE Light Double DE Light Double DE Light Double DE Light Double DE Light Double DE Light Double DE Light Double DE Light Double DE Light Double DE Light

www.sunlightsupply.com

Gavita Pro 1000 DE

Page 4: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3
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Page 6: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

Green-Up is designed to reduce yellowing when cuttings are rooting. It has the ability to feed a cutting before the roots have developed. Can be used on mature plants to reduce yellowing on lower leaves in flowering stage.

STOP THE YELLOWINGGREEN-UP

The addition of Blossom-Blood to a nutrient reservoir during the flowering stage of a plant will promote fuller buds & flowers utilizing selective pH control. Blossom-Blood’s reputation comes from the results.

GET FULLER BUDSBLOSSOM-BLOOD Liquid Gold will increase

the cell metabolic rate which translates into better growth. Liquid Gold is absorbed directly into the plant tissue and regular daily spraying will treat new growth cells.

LET YOUR PLANT TAKEUP NUTRIENTS FASTER

LIQUID GOLD

Clearing Solution is used to replace the nutrient in the final days before removing a floral crop from your growing system. Clearing Solution induces a stress on the plants system forcing reactions within the plant.

KEEP IT CLEAN AND MAXIMIZE

CLEARINGSOLUTION

Liquid Black Crystal assists in increasing the ion exchange across the root membrane. It improves the plants ability to absorb nutrients. Liquid Black Crystal is most effective when it is applied to the root zone of a plant. It can be used for gardens and lawns, particularly where the pH of the soil is high.

INCREASE YOUR PLANTS NUTRIENT INTAKE

LIQUIDBLACK CRYSTAL

Veg-Booster enables young cuttings or seedlings to better expand branches allowing for fuller growth in the later flowering stages.

PLAN FOR YOUR YOUNGCUTTINGS TO SUCCEED

VEG-BOOSTER

RAMBRIDGE WHOLESALE SUPPLYTOLL FREE TEL: 1.800.265.4769 | TOLL FREE FAX: 1.888.852.5475For more information on our products, visit our website! www.rambridge.com

Dry Flower Products are specific water treatment products that enhance particular aspects of a plant’s natural cycle. The success of Dry Flower Products is their performance.

Page 7: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

IN THIS ISSUE OF GARDEN CULTURE : SOIL

TECHNIQUES 68

18

9 Foreword

10 Product Spotlight

16 Maximizing Yield from Container Gardens

18 Top 5 Hydroponic Techniques

25 Air Plants are easy

26 Build a community connected by fruit

31 Salanova lettuce – a whole new leaf

34 Peace

40 A good start

46 Crafting the one trunk orchard

50 Turn surplus crops into cash

54 Mothering techniques

58 Ubergreen farm above

62 King of organic Hawaiian ginger

68 Soil Techniques in hydroponics

72 SIP gardening

76 Embrace the awesome power of air

79 How to make soil tacos

82 Bringing the farm into the kitchen

86 Secret to better tasting vegetables

89 Is Korn still growing corn?

90 Bio-solids

94 Looking at air

PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT10

SALANOVAA WHOLE NEW LEAF

31

26

FALLENFRUIT

58

CONTENTS I GARDEN CULTURE

7 gardenculture.net

MARKETING TECHNIQUES

50

Hydroponic Techniques

top5

UBERGREEN FARM

Page 8: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

botanicare.com

Make it your KIND™.Fully customizable.

For fast flowering annuals.Any media. Any system.

Page 9: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

9

FOREWORD & CREDITS I GARDEN CULTURE

FOREWORD

THE TECHNIQUE EDITION

I dreamt the other night that my garden was a tropi-

cal forest, teeming with fragrant flowering orchids, ripe

juicy fruit and vegetables. A lushness that can only be

found in the deepest of jungles.

Then I woke up.

If you are anything like me, gardening is always on your mind. When something goes wrong, as it inevitably does, fixing it is not an option it is an obsession. When everything is going right, you want it to be better.

In this edition, we delve into the different techniques. Whether in soil or hydroponics, from the very first sprout to harvest time, each stage of growth has its challenges. We will give you some tricks that will help you create the garden of your dreams.

Container gardening, grafting, top 5 hydro techniques, mothering, as well as using plants to beautify your home are but some of the topics explored by our team of talented writers. I have often said that Garden Culture is more than a gardening magazine. It is also a social statement about the state of affairs of our food system. We want eve-ryone to know not just how to grow amazing indoor gardens anywhere, but why they should.

Do some research, discover the truths about super-market food, and join the gardening revolution.

Happy growing

Eric CoulombeCo-founder Garden Culture Magazine

CREDITSGarden Culture™ is a publication of GC Publishers B.V.

E D I TO R SExecutive Editor:Eric CoulombeE. [email protected] Editor:Tammy Clayton

DESIGN: Job Hugenholtz

Special thanks the following contributors:Tammy Clayton, Annelies, Jaïr Velleman, Everest Fernandez, Jeroen Kateehm, Gaby Bronsztein, Evan Folds, Grubby, Fallen Fruit, Ben Greene, Jenn Digioa, Maya Coulombe

P U B L I S H E RGC PublishersPostbus 4833200 AL SpijkenisseThe Netherlandst. +31(0)181-728101

w www.gcpublishers.nete [email protected]

A D V E R T I S I N GEric Coulombe E. [email protected]+1-855-427-8254+31(0)181-728101

S U B S C R I P T I O N SE. [email protected]

D I S T R I B U T I O N PA R T N E R SUSA: Sunlight Supply HydrofarmCanada: Biofloral Rambridge

ISSN: 2211-9329

© GC Publishers B.V.All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be

reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in

any form or by any means, electronic, electrostatic, magnetic

tape, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise, without prior

permission in writing from the GC Publishers B.V.

Website : www.GardenCulture.net

facebook.com/GardenCulture

twitter.com/GardenCulture

Page 10: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

fresh

10

product spotlightDewey Mister

Aeroponic Mister HeadThe Dewey Mister Aeroponic mister head uses

air alone to feed your Aeroponic plants and clones. It eliminates the need for a water pump or air stones. This new mister head circulates the water and feeds your clones at the same time all with a single air pump. You can run organic nutrients with-out clogging and even use it to brew your organic compost tea. All Dewey Mister products are proud-ly made in the USAwww.deweymister.com

Bio 1 Component Soil

Bio 1 Component Soil is House & Garden’s natural one part fertilizer for soil amended with lime. It contains the

necessary minerals and nutrients needed for desirable results in both, vege-tative and flowering stages. Formulated specifically for soil containing lime, Bio

1 Component Soil does not contain calcium which must be added when switch-ing to bloom. Bio 1 Component Soil’s liquid formulation is 100% water soluble and

its unique composition assists with the transfer of nutrients from the root zone into the foliage. Application dosage may be adjusted to both normal and aggres-

sive strengths. Available in sizes: 1L, 5L, 10L, 20Lwww.house-garden.us

From House & Garden

Make the switch! The Under Current is the system of choice for large scale and profes-sional commercial growers around the world. Due to our proven Sub-Current Culture method the Under Current increases nutrient uptake and efficiency resulting in cost savings, time savings and increased yields. Available in 50+ completely modular con-figurations, the Under Current offers growers a quick and convenient way to fill very large spaces with fewer overall systems and plant sites. Our largest 32-site systems can accommodate 8 x 1000w lamps horizontally all the way up to 41 x 1000w lamps hung vertically. For more information or a recommended layout contact the Current Culture H2O design department. www.cch2o.com

for Commercial Growers

under currenttm

Page 11: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

fresh

gardenculture.net

PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT I GARDEN CULTURE

Behold the only air-cooled double-ended hood in the market. AC/DE’s unique double-ended construction allows for maximum op-tical efficiency and uniformity. The full spectrum DE lamps used in this fixture focus on the red component for increased pho-tosynthetic response. These lamps offer improved PAR values, and are made with high quality German aluminum. The design allows removal of heat generated by the lamp without cooling the lamp below proper operating temperature. The galvanized steel housing has a powder coat finish, double neoprene gas-kets for an air tight seal, and hinged glass to make changing lamps and cleaning glass easy. www.sunlightsupply.com

Sun System AC/DE Reflector

product spotlightAeroponic Mister Head

11

The Smart Pot Transplanter doesn’t trap your roots like some containers but instead, prunes your roots, letting you get to the next stage easier, and with a better plant. The Smart Pot transplanter is a re-usable 1 gallon, 2 gallon, and now available in a 3 gallon Smart Pot specifically designed for transplanting. Its convenient and simple overlapping design allows for clean and easy use with all grow mediums. No more struggling. Just peel down, transplant, and reuse. Made in the USA.www.smartpots.com

Double Ended Air Cooled Reflector

Fast Green Hand CleanGet your hands on a bottle of this amazing new spray and go hand cleaner.

The first and only of its kind - this all natural hand cleaner allows you to rid

your hands of sticky substances without the need for soap and water. Made

with certified organic ingredients, this product was designed to effectively

remove: tree sap, chewing gum, car grease, sticker residue, latex caulk, plant

resin, roof cement, grime and more.

Fast Green is also highly effective at removing skunk spray from your dog!

www.hazel-parker.com

Transplanting made even easier

The Smart Pot Transplanter

Page 12: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

NL - CERTIFIED SUBSTRATESK46009

The Best Substrates In The World

HydroCoco 60/40Mixed Hydroponic Substrate

Expanded clay pebbles and coco for horticulture

Gold Label Americaswww.goldlabelamericas.com

Gold Label AmericasPh.800.994.8775

60/40 MixGold Label Hydrocorn and Coco is an ideal match for high water capacity, lower watering frequency and better rooting. We utilize the 8-16mm Hydrocorn from Gold Label and the purest Gold Label Coco to give to give you the perfect ebb and flood growing media which also works well in any pot based systems. The 60/40 mix allows you to feed less frequently than in straight Hydrocorn and gives a buffer on the watering times.

Page 13: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

NL - CERTIFIED SUBSTRATESK46009

The Best Substrates In The World

HydroCoco 60/40Mixed Hydroponic Substrate

Expanded clay pebbles and coco for horticulture

Gold Label Americaswww.goldlabelamericas.com

Gold Label AmericasPh.800.994.8775

60/40 MixGold Label Hydrocorn and Coco is an ideal match for high water capacity, lower watering frequency and better rooting. We utilize the 8-16mm Hydrocorn from Gold Label and the purest Gold Label Coco to give to give you the perfect ebb and flood growing media which also works well in any pot based systems. The 60/40 mix allows you to feed less frequently than in straight Hydrocorn and gives a buffer on the watering times.

13 gardenculture.net

PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT I GARDEN CULTURE

Biobizz supports Justdiggit. Justdiggit is an organization that creates

awareness on, and takes action in the battle against desertification

and climate change. Biobizz also fights for a world that is fertile and

therefore liveable; not only by producing organic fertilizers, but also

by supporting initiatives like Justdiggit.

You too can take part in this battle! Justdiggit is initiated by the Naga

Foundation. The project was established to involve more people in

the battle against desertification and climate change; phenomenons

that will affect us all sooner or later. Biobizz and Justdiggit want to

create more awareness that now is the time to take action! De-

forestation, overgrazing, and detrimental agricultural practices are

turning large areas of the planet into deserts.

The top layer of soil has become hard and

impenetrable, and as a result, rainwater can-

not seep into the ground. The earth is warm-

ing up and drying out. The natural balance

is being seriously disrupted, and the earth

becomes less fertile. Results are failed crops,

hunger, poverty, and climate change.

But there is a solution! This is the time for

you to take action. We need to take care that the rainwater can

seep in the ground again, and channel underground. This can be

done by digging ditches a metre deep along contour lines in the

landscape to open up the impenetrable top layer. All run-off

rainwater is collected in the ditches, and can be absorbed and

retained by the soil. The seeds still present in the soil will start

to sprout, and the natural vegetation will return surprisingly

quickly. Thát’s our aim!

The first goal Justdiggit has is turning 266.000.000m2 green as

a start for climate recovery. Biobizz supports this project, and

is collecting money to aid the battle for a greener world. Our

first action: for every new friend (Like!) on Facebook, Biobizz

will donate “one green square meter” to Justdiggit.

You can help! Just go to the Biobizz Facebook Page, and click

the Like button. Help out before it’s too late! For more in-

formation on Justdiggit you can watch their video on: https://

www.youtube.com/watch?v=WzCjSuu8azE. For more infor-

mation on Biobizz check out: www.biobizz.com

Dig in for a fertile w

orld!

Wireless Environmental/

Lighting Controller

Titan Controls just announced its latest addi-

tion to their ‘Pro Series’ controller line, the

Hyperion 1! This Wireless Environmental/

Lighting Controller will monitor and operate

your grow room from up to 150 feet away! It

features day & night control of your tempera-

ture, humidity and CO2, as well as a fully func-

tional lighting controller for stand-alone use,

or activates trigger cord(s) of 4, 8, 16 and 24

light units). Functions include a high temp shut-

off/15 minute delay. Comes with pre-set and

custom light timing schedules. The Hyperion

1 grow room controller is super easy to oper-

ate- that’s what makes this product the ulti-

mate controller in the marketplace today!

www.titancontrols.net

Hyperion

Page 14: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3
Page 15: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

product spotlight

gardenculture.net

PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT I GARDEN CULTURE

Sunlight Supply is pleased to announce the arrival of the LEC 315 light fixture. The LEC 315 utilizes cutting edge Light Emitting Ceramic™ technology, along with a spe-cially engineered 98% reflective optical cavity. This fixture includes a highly efficient, agriculturally engineered Philips CDM-T Elite Agro Lamp. This lamp offers a greatly im-proved full color light spectrum, 3100K color tempera-ture, 92 CRI, 33,000 initial lumens (105Lm/W)! Higher amounts of beneficial UV and far red spectrums increase the lamps growth power to the plants. The LEC drive in-corporates built-in thermal protection, and the open rated lamp construction reduces radiant heat from the arc tube, and is suitable for open fixture use. www.sunlightsupply.com

Sun System AC/DE Reflector

15

Light Emitting Ceramic™ (LEC) 315

The GroGreen garden hose water filter by Hydro-

Logic Purification Systems provides filtered water

for your home & garden. The GroGreen eliminates

harmful chlorine and reduces chloramines, foul

tastes & odors, chemicals, V.O.C.’s, sediment, rust

& iron particles. This invigorates organic compost,

soil amendments, and bio-teas which improves the

quality of fruits vegetables and flowers.

www.grogreenfilter.com

garden hose watergro green

Page 16: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

16

However, what sometimes gets lost, especially to the novice

or the beginner, is what makes that plant and that fruit look

great. That fact is, for most, all the attention is given to the

top of the plant, when in reality, if you do not have a great

plant below, you will not have a great plant up top. I am talk-

ing about the roots. The part of the plant that you don’t see,

but is the reason for the top of your plant being beautiful

and fruitful. If you have great roots, you will have great fruit.

For many years a challenge for

container gardeners has been

to create a natural environment

inside a container. Mimic the soil,

temperature, and drainage while

providing an area for the roots

to grow to their potential. After

all, a plant is only as good as its

roots. For a long time the only

option has been a plastic container. As we have learned, tra-

ditional plastic containers do not offer the best environment

for plants to thrive. They do not drain well, they hold heat in,

and they do not encourage a plant’s root structure to develop

to its potential.

M a x i m i z i n g Y i e l d f r o m Container Gardens

These reasons are why companies and home gardeners alike

have made changes to their plastic container designs and to

the mixes they use. Both have drilled holes in the containers to

deliver oxygen and better drainage. White plastic containers

are more popular to guard against heat buildup. Soil companies

have made a nice business from creating mixes that drain well

in a plastic container that doesn’t properly breathe or allow for

proper drainage. Over the last few years, many companies have

addressed these challenges, and now make both hard sided

and fabric containers that offer the benefits that the container

gardener needs to produce a healthy and productive plant.

Growing in a hard plastic container almost always means that

a root-bound plant is your result. A root-bound plant is when

the roots of a plant outgrows the container it is in. This is easy

to do when growing in a container that doesn’t breathe and

promotes root circling.

Roots need oxygen. As they grow they are looking for and

seeking out oxygen. The roots of a plastic container reach the

edge of the container and begin to travel along the slick sides

of that container. With little to no oxygen and nothing to stop

the roots, they circle around and around the container until

they reach the bottom of the container and the drain holes.

Finally, oxygen!

Growing plants and having a garden is a rewarding hobby; especially when your plants look awesome. It

is a great feeling walking out your back door to check on your garden, and spotting the first ripe tomato

of the season. It’s almost as good as eating that first ripe tomato. Maybe almost as powerful as bragging

to your neighbors and friends how nice the tomato was, or how nice your garden is. The feeling is more

enhanced knowing your garden is nicer than theirs. For a home gardener there is nothing better.

‘a plant is only as good as its roots’

Fabric versus plastic

Page 17: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

17 17

AIR PRUNING I GARDEN CULTUREBY CHARLES

gardenculture.net

This is why with traditional plastic

containers there are always roots

coming out of the bottom of the con-

tainer - it’s aerated here. At this point

the plant is basically root-bound. Even

though there is a void of root growth

in the interior of the container. That void is there because the

roots have gone elsewhere looking for oxygen. The container

gives the roots very little place to grow because they are try-

ing to get out of the 3 or 4 bottom drain holes. When this

happens many problems can occur. The plant may become

stunted, stretching can occur, smaller and slower flower

and fruit production, and watering needs increase dramati-

cally. Not the recipe for a great plant worth bragging about.

With the new technologies that have become available to

the home gardener, these problems are eliminated. Avail-

able now in both hard sided and fabric, there are contain-

ers that actually prevent root bound plants and will even

promote root pruning. I am talking about aeration contain-

ers designed to actually prune your roots. Some work bet-

ter than others, but all of them have the same ideas at

play. They stop root circling and promote root pruning.

In an aeration container when the

roots reach the edge of the container

they come in contact with the oxy-

gen that they need. Since most roots

cannot grow in straight air, the for-

ward growth stops and root pruning

happens. As the roots reach the air at the container wall, the

tip of the root will dry out, resulting in natural pruning. When

this happens that root will branch out laterally towards the

center of the container creating more roots that will grow to

the edge of the container and do the same thing. This action

will occur over and over filling up the entire container with

roots. It’s not just the same roots circling around, but a root

structure that includes many more root tips. The more tips

the better as this spot is most efficient at absorbing water and

nutrients.

Having this well-developed root structure will allow the plant

to absorb more water and nutrients. Just like humans who eat

too much, a plant that can eat more will get bigger too. Roots

will not grow to find nutrients. They grow when there are nu-

trients available. This being the case and the root structure

containing many more roots tips, the plant is sure to grow

beautifully and produce brag-worthy fruit. 3

‘a plant is only as good as its roots’

‘A container that will actually

prune your roots?’

Growing in a hard plastic container almost always means

that a root-bound plant is your result

Aeration containers are designed to stop root

circling and promote root pruning.

‘traditional plastic containers do not provide the best environment for plants’

Page 18: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

18

BY JEROEN KATEEHM

Hydroponic Techniques

top5 “ E A C H O F T H E F O L L O W I N G S Y S T E M S H A S A P L A C E I N T H E W O R L D O F G R O W I N G ”

There are many ways to grow plants. Everybody has heard about hydroponics,

growing soilless. Hydroponics itself is more of a catchall term that defines

the soil being absent, but not the actual technique being used for growing.

Page 19: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

19 19 gardenculture.net

top5 “HYDROPONICS ITSELF IS MORE OF A CATCHALL TERM THAT DEFINES THE SOIL BEING ABSENT, BUT NOT THE

ACTUAL TECHNIQUE BEING USED FOR GROWING”

Let’s explore the different types of hydroponics that are most successful and commonly used. We

will look at why each of these systems has a place in the world of growing. You’ll see the pros and

cons for each system and why to use them in certain specific situations. None of the systems is the

best per se, but in each different situation there will be a system that is best suited for the applica-

tion. I’m going to make it easy to pick which type of hydro to use in any given situation suiting your

needs.

NFTNFT or “Nutrient Film Technique” uses a flat growing

surface positioned at a slight decline. A thin ‘film’ of nu-

trient solution is continuously running along the surface

of the growing table. Usually plants are held in place by

neoprene discs, or rooted in rock-wool cubes to cre-

ate the anchoring needed so plants won’t wash away or

fall over. The film of water is usually a fraction of an inch

deep, with most of the roots actually being out of the wa-

ter. The roots will get plenty of aeration, which in turn

should lower the risk of root problems. It is however vi-

tal to protect the roots from light, and to keep them a

bit moist. A cover for the growing table is important to

regulate the moisture content of the air around the roots.

NFT systems are usually recirculating. Nutrient solution

constantly flows past the roots, and even though it’s just a

thin film, there will be plenty of water moving past the plant

roots. Disposing the nutrient solution after one pass would

increase water consumption in a massive way, and will be

destructive to garden efficiency, which you would normally

expect hydro to offer. Depending on the plants and their

nutrient consumption, the pH and EC levels of the nutrient

solution will gradually change as it passes through the plant

roots. Because of this gradual change it is advisable to in-

crease the number of growing tables instead of their length.

Since NFT is utilizing a thin film of water that is constantly

flowing it’s absolutely vital that the water keeps moving.

If the water stops moving for whatever reason, the plants

quickly start to show severe drought problems. It is there-

fore advisable to use two pumps for the same application.

In case one of the pumps breaks the other will still keep the

roots moist. Root zone temperature control can be ideal in

an NFT system, but it can also become the Achilles heel. If

the root zone is properly insulated from outside tempera-

ture influences it will only take a small amount of energy

to increase or decrease the nutrient temperature, an es-

sential part of hydroponics. If the root zone is not shielded

from these outside influences the temperature will most

likely get too high during the day. One of the biggest advan-

tages due to this is the small amount of nutrient solution in

use, although some kind of buffering is always a good thing.

top

5 HYDROPONIC TECHNIQUES I GARDEN CULTURE

“WITH NFT INCREASE THE NUMBER OF GROWING TABLES

INSTEAD OF THEIR LENGTH”

airpump

air stone

nutrientpump

water nutrientstimer

nutrientreturn

reservoir

Page 20: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

20

AeroponicsThe most high-tech solution to growing plants in a hy-

droponic setup is aeroponics. These kinds of systems

are probably not suited for beginners due to their com-

plexity. Aeroponics systems are a sort of opposite to

Deep Water Culture. Opposed to a container filled

with oxygenated water these systems use a contain-

er with air saturated with a mist of nutrient solution.

Plants are usually

suspended with neo-

prene disks. Net-pots

don’t really work

because they allow

for the nutrient mist

to escape which leaves salt spots everywhere it goes.

The mist is usually made by pumping water with pres-

sure through a nozzle which creates a fine mist. Ob-

viously, it’s important that the plumbing be correct.

Cleaning the system often is necessary to make sure

the nozzles don’t clog up. Overall these systems prob-

ably do more to increase the risk of catastrophic failure.

Like NFT, aeroponics systems don’t do well should a pow-

er or pump failure occur. Roots will dry out and leaves will

soon start to lose their means to evaporate and stay cool.

In theory, this is the best method of controlling the root

climate and nutrient supply. How this works out in reality

depends on quality of the system’s design.

DWCThe key in aquaponics is to get everything the plant needs

to the plant as efficiently as possible. Deep Water Culture

does exactly that, it saturates the roots in a supply of nutri-

ent solution while also adding oxygen to prevent suffocation

of the roots. Deep water culture systems vary in size, each

plant can have an individual unit, or you can grow a number

of plants in the same container. The size of the container

determines how much buffer capacity the system has, a

bigger container will lead to more stability in temperature,

pH and EC. The drawbacks of having large containers is

that it requires a lot of water to fill them, and in some

cases, a lot of energy to heat it to a suitable temperature.

Plants are in net-pots filled with a medium such as clay

pebbles, but can also be suspended above the water using

neoprene discs. A common method used in lettuce farms

is to use styrofoam boards to suspend plants. A big ad-

vantage in doing this is the ability to grow plants close

together when they are small and placing them in another

styrofoam board when they have grown. In this way you

know you have full occupancy, boosting overall production.

The most important thing to remember is that the wa-

ter in a DWC must have constant oxygenation. This

can either be done by using a venturi type air inlet on

the circulation pump, or by using air pumps. The air

can also be added into the root zone directly which is

even better than just oxygenating the nutrient solution.

DWC is especially suited for places with high daytime tem-

peratures and cooler nights. The buffering capacity that

comes from the high volume of water slows down the

cooling of the water, lowering the energy bill. The amount

of overall engineering in the system is not too high, and

pump failures are not as catastrophic as other hydro sys-

tems. The cost or availability of (chlorine free) water can

form a prohibitive factor in some places though.

airpump

air stone

water nutrients

reservoir

“AEROPONICS SYSTEMS ARE A SORT

OF OPPOSITE TO DEEP WATER CULTURE.”

nutrientpump

water/nutrientstimer

reservoir

mist nozzle

Page 21: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

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5

21 21

Conventional HydroThe most conventional form of hydro growing is sim-

ply to replace soil with another - inert - medium. Even

though this resembles soil, the characteristics of grow-

ing are totally different. The grower has full control

over the nutrient supply but the water absorption and

drainage characteristics of the medium can usually be

maintained for longer periods of time than soil giv-

ing these simple methods advantages over soil-growth.

The two best known mediums in conventional hydroponics

are clay pebbles and rock-wool. Rock-wool has better ab-

sorption properties, and clay pebbles drain very well. Both

are good mediums for root growth and are reusable. Con-

ventional hydro systems are either recirculating or drain-

to-waste. They give you timed or constant flow options,

depending on the medium used. A medium such as clay

pebbles that drains well will do better in a constant flow

type situation. Rock-wool on the other hand will perform

better with a timed water supply since the rock-wool itself

will absorb water to keep the roots moist. Conventional

hydro is probably the best starting point for people looking

into hydroponics systems. It’s the simplest to set up and

the least likely to fail horribly.

gardenculture.net

HYDROPONIC TECHNIQUES I GARDEN CULTURE

airpump

air stone

nutrientpump

water nutrientstimer

nutrientreturn

reservoir

grow tray

drippermanifold

driplines

“CONVENTIONAL HYDRO IS PROBABLY THE BEST STARTING

POINT FOR PEOPLE LOOKING INTO HYDROPONICS SYSTEMS.

IT’S THE SIMPLEST TO SET UP AND THE LEAST LIKELY TO FAIL HORRIBLY.”

Page 22: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

not just afertilizer...

W W W . B I O B I Z Z . C O M

Biobizz_AD_Grow_DE (210x297).indd 1 12/5/13 1:22 PM

Page 23: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

nutrientpump

water nutrients

timer

reservoir

grow tray overflow

fill/drain fitting

excess solution returns to reservoir

ebb & flow cycle (pump on)

timer

solution returns to reservoir via fill tube

ebb & flow cycle (pump off)

23

“EBB AND FLOW IS A LITTLE MORE DEMANDING THAN A CONVENTIONAL

HYDRO SYSTEM”

Other Things to NoteAll these systems still do the same essential thing,

deliver a nutrient solution to the plant roots, and

providing this in an oxygenated environment. Choos-

ing which system to use has a lot to do with personal

preference. The taking into account of your location

is a good thing, in a cold environment a lot of water

will be expensive to heat. On the other hand, a small-

er buffer of nutrient solution will need more manage-

ment to keep the values within the right range.

A good grower can probably have success with any

of these systems in any kind of situation. An experi-

enced grower however, is more likely to pick a more

simple system that has less chance of catastrophic

failure. That is also the key to hydro, a small error in

judgment or a power failure can result in mass plant

death. A well designed system has fail-safes to make

sure this does not happen!

HYDROPONIC TECHNIQUES I GARDEN CULTURE

Ebb and FlowA slight adaptation to conventional hydro is Ebb and

Flow, plants in these systems get watered from below

for a set amount of time. This is one of the best sys-

tems to use when recycling nutrients. Nutrient solution

pumps out below the plants. The grower then allows

the plant and medium some time to absorb the mois-

ture, then the excess drains off again. Usually plants re-

ceive 5 to 15 minutes of high water levels, and then a

longer period without nutrient solution on the roots.

Technically, Ebb and Flow is a little more demanding than

a conventional hydro system, using a little more plumbing

to control the water height. Planting young plants requires

some planning, plants need to have roots long enough to

come into contact with the water. Especially if they are

grown on clay pebbles. However, it is easy to move around

plants in their individual pots. Unlike other systems there

are drip lines connected to the pots so moving them is easy.

These systems are perfect for experienced hydro growers

that want to have good control of their nutrient solution as

it’s easy to measure what the difference in pH and EC is in

between every flooding. The difference between Ebb and

Flow and conventional hydro comes down to preference.

Neither is a better system, and both work about the same.

It’s really up to the individual user and their location which

determines which system should be chosen.

top

5

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25

N O S P E C I A L R E Q U I R E M E N T SNo grow lights needed. Pot them,

mount them on wood, or display them

in the most unusual ways. All you need

is indirect bright sunlight or standard

fluorescent office lighting. They will

tolerate a couple hours of direct light

a day, but will need misting a couple

times a week in such a situation.

Don’t assume that these super drought tolerant beauties need

no water at all. Still they’re easy keepers, and normally require just

one good soak once a week. Establish a hydration schedule. Soak

them in a sink or bowl for 20

minutes on a regular basis.

Then let them air dry where

there is good circulation.

They aren’t real fussy about

climate either. Most air

plants do nicely at 50-90ºF

and without the demands

of precise humidity found

in maintaining indoor grow

rooms. 3

25

AIR PLANTS I GARDEN CULTURE

gardenculture.net

are easy!

THESE LOW MAINTENANCE BEAUTIES ONLY NEED INDIRECT BRIGHT SUNLIGHT OR STANDARD FLUORESCENT OFFICE LIGHTING...

Between structural limitations, hectic schedules and different

plants’ various needs - it isn’t always easy to have great looking

indoor plants. Atmospheric Tillandsia (air plants) change every-

thing, even for the accomplished brown thumber.

BY TAMMY CLAYTON

Air Plants

C O O L L O O K I N G T I L L A N D S I A• Bromeliads

• Bulbosa Belize

• Ionatha

• Caput Medusae

• Junicea

• Xerographica

• Streptophylla

• Usneoides (Spanish Moss)

• Tectorum

Space challenged?

Tillandsia will fit anywhere!

Page 26: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

26

FALLEN FRUIT (DAVID BURNS, MATIAS VIEGENER AND AUSTIN YOUNG)

An activist art project founded by David Burns, Matias

Viegener and Austin Young, Fallen Fruit started as a mapping

of all the public fruit in our Los Angeles neighborhood,

Silver Lake. We encourage everyone to harvest, map,

plant, and sample public fruit, which is what we call all

fruit on or overhanging public spaces such as sidewalks,

streets, or parking lots. We believe fruit in public space is a

resource that should be commonly shared, like shells from

the beach or mushrooms from the forest. Fruit is universal

and uniquely democratic, crossing all classes as a symbol

of generosity and bounty. It is a healthy food, unrefined

and unprocessed; eaten virtually off the tree, it symbolizes

the uncomplicated goodness of nature, beauty, fertility,

and hospitality, not the excess or waste of commercial or

industrial culture.

We’re intrigued by the status of fruit hanging from a tree

in public space. Los Angeles is a city of moderate density

spread over a large area peppered with lawns, shrubs, trees,

and even survivors of long-gone fruit orchards, and public

fruit is found on almost every block. Bananas, peaches,

avocados, lemons, oranges, limes, kumquats, loquats,

apples, plums, passion fruits, walnuts, pomegranates,

guavas, and more grow year round in every neighborhood

in the city.

Urban public fruit, whether deliberate or accidental,

is more efficient to grow than farmed fruit because it

eliminates the cost of transport. Since it is not a mono-

crop, as in an orchard of a single variety of apple, there

are fewer pests and less chemicals required to treat them.

A further irony is that most public fruit in Los Angeles is

organic, blessed by neglect.

We began mapping the public fruit in our neighborhood,

just the triangle between our three houses. We appear in

our first images wearing plastic suits and rubber gloves, as

if we’d fallen to earth from another world and began by

investigating what there was to eat. The conceit was to

The most ancient forms of communion among people came through food. Hunters and gatherers

banded together for survival, and gatherers became farmers; farming laid the ground for human’s

connections to the earth and farms became the first communities. The social exchange of food

forms the basis of the culture. Among all the foods, fruit holds a special place as a symbol of bounty.

Signifying fertility, beauty, and hospitality, fruit is grown everywhere that people live, which is perhaps

why of all foods we most like to give fruit as a gift. The gift model, giving without expectation of

return, forms the basis and connecting thread of Fallen Fruit’s work.

(DAVID BURNS, MATIAS VIEGENER AND AUSTIN YOUNG)

Build A Community Connected By Fruit by Fallen Fruit

Page 27: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

27 27

PUBLIC FRUIT I GARDEN CULTURE

gardenculture.net

“FRUIT IS UNIVERSAL AND UNIQUELY DEMOCRATIC, CROSSING ALL CLASSES

AS A SYMBOL OF GENEROSITY AND BOUNTY. IT IS A HEALTHY FOOD, UNREFINED AND UNPROCESSED; EATEN VIRTUALLY OFF THE TREE ”

make ourselves look unnatural, wrapping

ourselves instead of the fruit in plastic,

which is how fruit increasingly appears to

us in the world. Perhaps a bit of our own

alienation manifests

itself in these images. We coined the term

“public fruit” as it expressed the way in

which a certain public or communal or

shared quality was lacking in these streets.

Overlaid with our fascination with space is

our interest in fruit. Three forms of fruit

presented themselves very quickly: the

private, the public, and the fallen fruit — no one’s fruit,

the waste of fruit. Whose banana is this, we began to

wonder, this banana that presented itself at arm’s length on

a city sidewalk? Certain residents prune their fruit tree’s

branches at the very edge of their property, and not an

inch further, while others clearly let their

trees spill into the public sphere. As we

came to know neighborhoods and spoke

to people who lived there we learned

that some residents were indeed inviting

strangers to pick. Their generosity is a

grassroots model for alternative thinking

about public space, property, and

resources.

An outgrowth of our maps and public

urban plantings, we regularly stage

Public Fruit Jams, inviting the public to

join us in making communal jam. The Public Fruit Jam

is our favorite public project because it forms dynamic

temporary communities. Since its beginnings it was

always considered an experiment in public participation

and social relations.

(DAVID BURNS, MATIAS VIEGENER AND AUSTIN YOUNG)

by Fallen Fruit

Page 28: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

Represent this premiumnutrient from Hollandin your store.

Page 29: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

29 gardenculture.net

PUBLIC FRUIT I GARDEN CULTURE

The jam is a classic collaboration. The ingredients can be

anything the participants bring, as well as fruit from the

communal table. Funded by arts grants and taking place

mostly in galleries and museums, these free events bring

strangers together around a table to cook. The fruit

is picked from the streets or grown at home, though

participants with store-bought fruit are not turned away.

We don’t use recipes, just simple proportions, and the jams

are negotiations among each group

of three to six people. Collaborative

and experimental, the process

echoes ancient rituals of communal

food preparation in contrast to the

anonymity of contemporary urban

life. Unusual jams are more tempting

than the kinds you see in a store:

apple pumpkin jam or quince and pear

with lavender. (Almost any fruits can

be jammed, even bananas, if you dare.)

Urban fruit is blessed by neglect,

almost always untended and thus

organic; it is like the electric wires or

the water systems underground, a layer

of urban infrastructure that could be

utilized far more than it is. Many people

are uncertain about its basic edibility.

They don’t need to worry; it is entirely

safe to eat. Even automobile soot

simply wipes off. It’s essentially organic

status, never sprayed or fertilized,

often barely watered, is striking to

the health-conscious consumer. In a playful way it starts a

conversation on our relationship to the natural world, and

to each other. 3

“THE PUBLIC FRUIT JAM IS

OUR FAVORITE PUBLIC PROJECT

BECAUSE IT FORMS DYNAMIC

TEMPORARY COMMUNITIES”

“URBAN FRUIT IS BLESSED BY NEGLECT, ALMOST ALWAYS UNTENDED AND THUS ORGANIC”

1st Public Fruit Park PlantedThe Forbidden Fruit guys recently

finished their first installation

in Los Angeles. They’re already

planning a new one in the city of

London, UK for 2015.

Learn more about

their unique venture at

www.ForbiddenFruit.org.

“The social exchange of food forms the basis of

the culture”

Page 30: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

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Page 31: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

31 31

A TRULY EFFICIENT CROP Excellent pest and disease resistance combined with very

little waste. Salanova is the result of many years of traditional

breeding. The leaves are precisely arranged around the core,

making it simple to a choice of green or red leaf in each type.

Coring has never been easier. Using a sharp knife or a special

cutter developed just for freeing these awesome greens from

the stem, you’ll be done in one swift movement.

A fast growing crop, with staggered germination, it is possible

to have uber fresh lettuce always available for a lovely garnish, a

sandwich crisper or a full-blown salad. Mix it up for a gourmet

look and taste. One commercial grower of Salanova in Germany

seeds 3 different varieties per growing block for instant salad

variety at market where it’s an instant hit with bouquet flair. Why

select plain green lettuce when you can have three colors and

types of goodness instead? A trick that you can easily duplicate

to get more exciting salads in the small grow room too.

THE COOLEST FRESH LETTUCE IN TOWNCreating a beautiful salad is super easy with these varieties. The

leaves are much smaller than regular lettuces. They’re ready to

eat, as is, and require no chopping or tearing into bite size pieces.

Just one cut to remove them from the head is all the prep work

SALANOVA I GARDEN CULTURE

gardenculture.net

Grow Your Own Series

“BESIDES BEING SIMPLY BEAUTIFUL, SALANOVA

HEADS PRODUCE 42% MORE FRESH

GREENS PER SQUARE FOOT THAN ANY

OTHER LEAF LETTUCE VARIETY”

BY TAMMY CLAYTON

Heads up! There’s something to get ex-

cited about in lettuce land. Salanova let-

tuces have much to offer the indoor gar-

dener and urban farmer, whether you’re

growing fresh food for your own table

or feeding your community.

Besides being simply beautiful, the heads

produce 42% more fresh greens per

square foot than any other leaf lettuce

variety. Salanova Crispy, Lollo, Oakleaf

and Butter are delicious new stars for

the salad plate. You’ve got a choice of

green or red leaf in each type, making it

a cinch to produce your own salad mix

in either soil or hydro culture.

L e t t u c eSalanovaA Wh o l e N ew L e a f

Page 32: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3
Page 33: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

MULTI -LEAF TYPESForming heads with a multitude of uniform baby leaves

arranged around a central core, the multi-leaf Oakleaf

and Butter varieties add flavor and color so desirable in a

beautiful salad. Use them alone or as a group to create the

popular baby greens mix. Fast and clean coring is done with

one cut using the ingenious Salanova cutter, with no waste

whatsoever. 3

33 33 gardenculture.net

Growing Salanova

Like all lettuces, this is a cool season crop. One you

can easily grow on a sunny balcony, patio, in a flower

bed or backyard garden in spring and early summer,

but it’s perfect for indoor gardens year around. Sala-

nova varieties finish out at one foot across, so be

sure to give it room. From germination to harvest

takes 8 weeks in the outdoor garden, and 6 weeks

in the indoor hydro garden. Seeding every 3 weeks

will keep you in a never-ending supply of fresh salad

greens.

SALANOVA I GARDEN CULTURE

OPTIMIZE YOUR SPACE: SALANOVA VARIETIES GIVE YOU FAR MORE YIELD THAN OTHER LEAF TYPES AND HAVE

AN IMPROVED SHELF LIFE. ON TOP OF ALL THAT, THE SEED IS ORGANIC AND

THE PLANTS ARE GMO FREE.

needed. The leaves are thicker than standard leaf lettuce,

giving you more crunchy goodness and better shaping

that keeps a salad from turning into a glob after adding the

dressing.

With all this eye-catching color, flavor and fresh convenience,

it’s pretty hard to resist Salanova lettuces - as a grower and

as a consumer. You can also optimize your space, because

Salanova varieties give you far more yield than other leaf

types and have an improved shelf life. On top of all that,

the seed is organic and the plants are GMO free. For more

business info, visit www.business.salanova.com. In

the US & Canada you will find Salanova seed available at

www. JohnnysSeeds.com.

ABOUT THE VARIETIESWith so many lettuce types on the market, it’s hard choosing

a selection to grow. The process of elimination gets much

easier after investigating Salanova. While it is a comparable

green to baby leaf lettuces, it offers so much more, including

stronger leaves at maturity, and a noticeably increased 3D

structure.

Salanova selections are easily divided into incised leaf

and multi-leaf types. You can use both types a few leaves

at a time too, so it’s a vegetable that fills anyone’s needs.

Harvested as living lettuce with roots attached, they remain

fresh without refrigeration.

INCISED TYPESIncised varieties, Lollo and Crispy, have rather frilly, deeply

cut leaf edges and give a mixed salad weight, more texture

and loft. The Lollo types provide a flavorful base that gives

a baby leaf salad much needed structure, loft and weight.

The newer Crispy types provide that iceberg crunch as well.

All of these hold up well to dressings. Separating the bunch

is easily done with a single slice of a sharp knife across the

lower stem.

“HARVEST A HANDFUL AT A TIME

OR AN ENTIRE HEAD”

Page 34: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

34

The barn is on fire.

It’s too late to put it out.

We’ll just let it burn.

~ Everest Fernandez,

‘Haiku for Stress’

PEACE

Page 35: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

35 gardenculture.net

PEACE I GARDEN CULTUREBY EVEREST FERNANDEZ

The night was old and I needed a cab home. I’m a happy, “love everybody” type of drunk—a

good drunk—but not a good walker. Don’t get me wrong—I was perfectly capable of strolling

home, I just didn’t want to. Some people relish the nocturnal stumble, the elephant meat

kebab, the falling face-first into bushes, the urinating into trash cans and the acquisition of

traffic cones and other urban souvenirs, but not me. Just get me home to bed, bed, bed. Taxi!

there” as some sort of underhand slight

against their resplendent femininity? I

mean, how dare I fail to notice them!

Had I unwittingly punctuated decades

of bitter anguish with one final, camel’s

back-breaking insult?

“Please, go ahead,” I smiled and made

a passive, open-handed gesture toward

the cab’s open door.

“Fuck off twat, it was ours anyway!”

The mouthy one barged past me and,

in a comically petulant display of non-

compliance, stomped over to the other side of the cab. The

suspension sank and both doors slammed shut. The less

vocal of the pair seized her final opportunity to issue one

last scowl through the car window as their wagon of joy

sped them away into the night. And then, mercifully, they

were gone.

I felt sober again but, before I could wonder about where

my buzz had gone, another identical taxi emerged from

around the corner. (Taxi ranks work like that.) This time

I glanced left and right to see if there was anyone else I

hadn’t noticed but the coast was clear. On the way home

I pondered the possible origins of such bilious aggression.

It seemed more vehement coming from females—I could

see they really meant it. That sore contempt in their eyes

was real, not just macho posturing. Still, what exactly were

these women so pissed about? It was as if they inhabited an

entirely different world.

Magically it appeared to come out

of nowhere, its rear door stopping

perfectly adjacent to me as if somehow

reading my need. All my right hand

needed to do was regally reach out

for the handle. Don’t you just love it

when stuff like that happens?

“Hey! Wait your fucking turn you

prick! We were waiting here first!”

That’s how I became aware of the

presence of two rather angry-

sounding Welsh women who were

apparently also standing in the

vicinity of the taxi rank. Ah … not so magical after all.

“I’m dreadfully sorry,” I said in my plummy English accent, “I

didn’t see you there.”

Alas a plummy English accent counts for even less in Wales

than it does in England and there I was stood alone in its

Chlamydia-ridden capital, Cardiff, late on a Saturday night,

beneath the bright lights of St. Mary’s Street. If that means

nothing to you then grab your mobile device and allow a

Google image search of “cardiff st marys street vomit”

(vomit is optional) to put you unequivocally in the picture.

The cantankerous Celts were fiery with an overblown

rage and my well-enunciated apology seemed only to fan

the flames. I surmised that their evening had fallen short of

expectations somehow and now their crosshairs were set

on yours truly. Perhaps they’d mistaken my “didn’t see you

That sore contempt in their eyes was

real, not just macho posturing.

Still, what exactly were these women so pissed about?

It was as if they inhabited an entirely different

world

PEACE

Page 36: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

36

Recently Tony Blair recounted a “ghastly roll call of

terror attacks in the obvious places” and listed “Syria,

Libya, Iraq, Lebanon, Egypt, Yemen, Tunisia and

Pakistan” as examples. (He broadly cited “religious

extremism” as the cause of all the troubles and not

economic inequality, debt slavery, poverty-by-design,

land grabs / illegal occupations and drone strikes.)

Compared with all this “major league stuff” going down

around the globe my petty little taxi rank squabble might

seem trivial and insignificant. And yet I think there’s a

gem in here somewhere—a veritable pearl in the mire.

The world is not separate from us. It is us. We have

created it! The catastrophic wars we see on our TVs

are just the enlargement of our everyday lives. Once

you see this clearly and the importance of your role

within the vast matrix of human relationships then it’s

hard not to become radically peaceful. What was once an

“Anybody can become angry – that’s easy. But to be angry with the right person and to the right degree and at the right time and for the right purpose, and in the right way – that’s not within everybody’s power and is not easy.”~ Aristotle

Few words have loftier ambitions than “peace”. Take the

word “table” for instance. Whether it’s a small table,

an eighteen-seater, or even Table friggin’ Mountain, it’s

still pretty humble furniture in the house of semantics.

Table is as table does. It is what it is. Wooden, plastic,

metal or rock.

Peace is another thing altogether. For one, you can’t

buy it flat-packed from Ikea. In fact, it’s not available

to purchase, period. Even labeling it is tricky. Best to

keep schtum about it—just as with words like “silence”

and “ineffable”. Silly words that only destroy that

which they seek to describe like a clumsy, stubby finger

prodding a Ming vase to check if it’s real.

The incessant planetary soap opera played out on

our flat-screened goggleboxes makes us all too apt

to externalize our notions of peace—or lack thereof.

The 24-hour news implies that peace is something

that first needs to happen “out there” in far off lands

before there’s even a faint hope of its tender arms

spreading out to a planetary hug. Peace is a distant

prospect, an ideal. But right now all we have are “peace

problems” begging to be solved—complicated, global

quandaries necessitating the involvement of fulltime

professionals such as Kofi Annan—certainly nothing

for you to worry your pretty little heads about.

Page 37: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

37 gardenculture.net

PEACE I GARDEN CULTURE

isolated microcosm of meaningless existence

becomes a dynamic, pulsating epicenter

of loveliness. Peace suffuses out of you,

infecting others whether they like it or not.

“Peace is every step.”~ Nhat Hanh

Anyway, back to our Welsh ladies. Clearly

they wanted a drama—a shouting match—

perhaps even a few fists, boots and claws. And

yet all they received from me was a big blob

of soft, gooey, hippy peace dough—a warm

gift to take home and examine, squeeze,

stretch and pummel at their leisure. After

all, who knows what those poor women had

gone through that day? I certainly didn’t.

Perhaps they were sisters (as I recall they

sort of looked related) who’d just boxed-up

and buried their old man after he’d finally

succumbed to decades of stress created by

the incessant fiscal demands of a heartless

English landlord? Yeah. That would fit…

Seriously, would I feel the same if there were unmanned

robotic aircraft hovering above my head? Well—to be

honest—that really depends on whether they were

about to drop a bomb on my head or deliver an Amazon

order. What I’m not going to be is afraid because fear

is the destroyer of peace. If you begin to address your

fear then peace is already in the mail.

“A man who is not afraid is not aggressive, a man who has no sense of fear of any kind is really a free, a peaceful man.” ~ Jiddu Krishnamurti

The acclaimed documentary maker Adam Curtis

suggested that western governments, realizing that

there was no more power to be gained by selling the

people a dream of a brighter future (robots doing all

the work for us, etc), decided instead to extract their

power and raison d’être from a different place in the

human psyche—the power of nightmares. (Also the

title of his excellent three-part BBC series.) Instead

of presenting us with dreams, governments claimed to

protect us from our nightmares.

This segways us neatly to the role of the mainstream media,

specifically that of keeping most of us in a perennial state

of fear—whether by some nefarious decree or cosmic

side-effect. The threat level can be orange, red, maroon

or flashing epileptically—but the unnamed, non-specific

“threat” is always there—if we acquiesce to give it residence.

Our fear makes us controllable. Virtually anything—the

mass surveillance of our everyday telecommunications, the

censorship of the Internet, the militarization of our police

force, or even forced medication through fluoridation

of our municipal water supplies—all of it can be vaguely

rationalized through the necessity of societal protection.

Peace isn’t to be found in heightened homeland

security or some distant, imagined utopia. It simply

waits patiently for our recognition, the cessation of

our selfish struggles, our quests for knowledge, wealth,

power and all the rest of it. Peace is realizing who you

are at the deepest level. (Everybody and everything.)

Peace is the ending of the illusion of separation from

the rest of the universe. Peace is so ubiquitous, so

persistent and pervasive you’ll find it in the most

unlikely of places—and yes, apparently lurking within

the pages of obscure indoor gardening publications. 3

“There is no ‘way to peace,’ there is only ‘peace.” ~ Mahatma Gandhi

What I’m not going to be is afraid because fear is the destroyer of peace. If you begin to address your fear then

peace is already in the mail.

Page 38: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

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Page 39: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3
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40

A G O O D

S TA R TIndoor garden productivity requires good

practices and techniques from the beginning.

Abundant harvests from any herb, fruit or ve-

getable plant depends on seed quality - and

everything that happens during each of its

growth stages. Even in your garden, excellence

is never the result of inferior materials or shod-

dy workmanship. Remember that and deliver

perfect conditions from the very start.

Page 41: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

41

Always obtain seed from reputable

sources. An established seed house is

best. Your seed will be fresh and come

from disease-free plants. It will also be

handled and stored properly to make

sure the best germination results are

possible. Stick with suppliers who have

signed the Safe Seed Pledge as your

GMO-free source for garden seed.

Check out: www.councilforrespon-

siblegenetics.org

A seed is a dormant embryo. Each one comes packed with the

knowledge the new plant needs to grow roots, leaves, flowers,

fruit and set seed to continue the species. Powering it up re-

quires only consistent moisture, air and the right temperature.

It comes with its own start-up energy source. They need no

fertilizer or nutrients during the germination stage. Light isn’t

even needed for the first week or two.

SETTING THE STAGEA plant’s idea of the gray area between right and wrong is a

pretty slim window. In your indoor garden, you can’t blame

poor germination on thieving birds and squirrels. If your seeds

don’t germinate, either you have not purchased quality seed,

failed to monitor environmental conditions, or ignored this

particular seed’s needs.

41

There are cool season and warm

season plants. Understanding this is

important. Before you get started,

you need to create the perfect sea-

son for your selected crop. Cool

season plants grow beautifully in an

environment that will send warm

season plants like tomatoes into

a sickly tizzy. You can grow both

types simultaneously with separate

germination chambers and grow

rooms. You can’t force a plant’s vigor in the wrong condi-

tions. It leads to weak plants, climatic disease issues and

poor harvests... or total failure.

Maximizing your harvest while reducing costs starts

with discovering your seeds’ needs for germination

and providing the best circumstances. Seeds sprout

in cooler conditions than for flower and fruit stages.

It’s Nature’s way of protecting their fragile parts from

more intense sunlight and long, hot days. Maintaining

the proper temperature is easily done with a heat mat

beneath your germination chamber. This will allow for

faster, more robust and uniform development. Do in-

vest in a grower’s mat with a thermostat to avoid cook-

ing your seeds or sprouts.

A GOOD START I GARDEN CULTURE

“A SEED IS A DORMANT EMBRYO. EACH ONE COMES PACKED WITH THE KNOWLEDGE THE NEW PLANT NEEDS TO GROW ROOTS, LEAVES,

FLOWERS, FRUIT AND SET SEED TO CONTINUE THE

SPECIES”

A G O O D

S TA R T

gardenculture.net

“MAXIMIZING YOUR HARVEST WHILE REDUCING COSTS STARTS WITH DISCOVERING YOUR SEEDS’ NEEDS FOR GERMINATION AND

PROVIDING THE BEST CIRCUMSTANCES”

BY TAMMY CLAYTON

Page 42: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

42

SELECTING THE MEDIAUnlike planting outdoors, you want thoroughly moistened me-

dia for indoor garden seeding. There are a variety of materials

you can use, dependent on your growing system. Some people

swear by the wet paper towels enclosed in a plastic baggie

routine. Handling just sprouted seeds is a delicate matter. You

run the risk of breaking or damaging the fragile young root or

shoot. You don’t have to work this hard or introduce such

intricacy to getting a grow going.

Jiffy peat pellets (a.k.a. pucks) aren’t your best option. Issues

include slow germination and root growth, poor air flow ca-

pacity and high acidity. Finally, it is the nature of peat moss to

tie up nitrogen. Thinking of using Jiffy peat pots filled with pot-

ting mix? Wood pulp added to their composition increases this

removal of nitrogen for breaking down. There is also a danger

of peat pucks holding too much moisture causing rot, diseases

or damping off.

Rockwool starter cubes or

propagation plugs commonly

used in hydroponics offer a

perfect balance of air, moisture

and drainage. Sprouting varies

by seed type and takes 2-8 days.

Consistent saturation and a pH

level of 4.5-5.5 is needed (de-

pendent on seed type) and accomplished by soaking the cubes

for 24 hours. Chlorinated tap water can harm sprouting action.

Use distilled water or mineral water instead. Adjust the soak-

ing solution’s pH level to correct your water’s pH and that of

the rockwool’s alkalinity. Do this by slowly adding acid solution

to lower pH or alkaline solution to raise it. Measure the water

pH until you meet the desired level for the plant type.

Put your prepped rockwool starters in a standard nursery tray

with a dome. Sow the seed at the required depth. Keep the

Essential: start off with good seeds

and always read the package

ALL THE NUTRITION NEW SPROUTS NEED IS IN THE COTYLEDON. JUST BECAUSE YOU HAVE SIGNS OF LIFE, DOESN’T MEAN IT IS TIME TO FEED. PATIENCE. YOU NEED ROBUST ROOT SYSTEMS FOR AN OPTIMUM HARVEST, WHICH DEVELOP AT THIS STAGE.

Page 43: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

43 gardenculture.net

covered tray in a warm, moist place until vegetation appears.

Note that proper temperature ranges are generally only 5-7

degrees apart. Five degrees might not seem like much, but you

aren’t a plant. Deliver the happiness zone.

Seed starting mixes shouldn’t have huge chunks of material.

It should hug your seed loosely without leaving large tunnels

exposing the seed or roots to too much air. Mist if you must

moisten again soon after sowing. Overhead watering causes

light media and seed float resulting in losing planting depth and

central placement. For small seed at a shallow depth, this could

mean failure to sprout due to ending up on top of the media.

A QUESTION OF DEPTHMost seeds grow best when covered with media to their pre-

ferred depth, though some seed types can do well on the sur-

face with enough moisture. Plant too deep or too shallow, and

your germination success is doubtful. Don’t guess - read the

seed packet. The purpose of planting depth ensures that the

seed can absorb enough moisture to activate.

A seed must absorb 50% of its weight in moisture to germi-

nate. Poor drainage, improper planting depth, and loss of mois-

ture due to evaporation are all things you can’t allow to happen

if you are going to eat. Depending on what you want to grow,

it can vary from 1/8 inch to a full inch or more. As a rule of

thumb, fine seeds need a shallow depth, while large seeds get

planted deep.

FEEDING THE BABIESAll the nutrition new sprouts need is in the cotyledon. Just

because you have signs of life, doesn’t mean it is time to feed.

Patience. You need robust root systems for an optimum har-

vest, which develop at this stage. Seedlings are fragile, and even

a weak nutrient solution can burn leaves and roots, as well as

make them focus on producing top growth. Don’t mess up their

programming!

If you continue to supply enough pH balanced water, your new

plants will swiftly send roots down deep and in all directions

seeking a food source. The harder they search, the more devel-

oped the roots will become. Nature provides plenty of nutri-

tion with the seed to fortify young plants until they reach the

vegetative stage of growth.

SEEKING THE SUNOnce small seedling leaves appear, plants start reaching to find

sunlight. Remove the dome and get your seedlings under lights

right away. Cover all roots to

prevent damage and support

rapid growth. If you don’t act

fast enough, they will stretch

and get leggy searching for the

sun, leading to less robust plants

and harvest. Give them 12-16

hours a day under CFL lamps.

The heat of HID grow lights will

overheat or fry tender seed-

lings.

Closely monitor temperature

and moisture. In 10-14 days ac-

tual leaves and rooting through the bottom of your media are

present. It is time for transplanting. Your young crop has en-

tered the vegetative stage. Now they need intense light, grow-

ing temps and nutrients. 3

DON’T GUESS - READ THE SEED PACKET.

THE PURPOSE OF DETERMINING THE RIGHT PLANTING DEPTH ENSURES

THAT THE SEED CAN ABSORB ENOUGH MOISTURE TO

ACTIVATE Rockwool starters

A GOOD START I GARDEN CULTURE

Page 44: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

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Page 45: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3
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46

G R A F T I N G T H E O N E T R U N K O R C H A R D“MULTI-GRAFTED FRUIT TREES ARE PERFECT FOR SMALL GARDENS” Seeds and cuttings aren’t the only way

to acquire new plants for your garden.

Grafting is more tedious, but allows

a gardener to accomplish things with

plants not possible in any other way. It

is the technique of joining the parts of

two or more plants to create one plant.

Ornamental plants used in landscaping

and flower gardens are more commonly

seen grafted than with fruits or vegeta-

bles. In the realm of food plants, grafting

is usually found in trees - but not always.

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47 47

GRAFTING I GARDEN CULTURE

gardenculture.net

WHY LEARN ABOUT GRAFTING? Let’s say you have a tomato variety that is now impossible

to find seed for. Maybe you live in a cold climate that makes

it difficult to grow really awesome tomatoes to vine ripened

harvest due to early frosts. Grafting allows you to stick

stem cuttings to a more developed root system, or a more

robust and disease resistant variety to make the impossible...

possible. It can also make certain crops possible at all.

All sweet orange trees are grafted onto sour orange variety

stock because sweet orange trees are highly susceptible to

root disease. In the 1880s a Texas scientist actually saved the

wine industry in France by grafting French grape varieties

onto wild grape roots when a disease epidemic threatened

to drive the French varieties into extinction. Wild Texas

grapes are immune to this grapevine plague and are the only

reason fine French wines are enjoyed around the world today.

While lots of people would love to have an organic fruit

orchard just outside their door, small yard space makes it

impossible. Multi-grafted fruit trees are perfect for small

gardens. It’s your one trunk solution for orchard variety

harvest in limited space. This growing technique lets you

have several types of apples on one tree; or peaches, pears,

cherries, plums and citrus. As long as you stick to the same

type of fruit, it works well.

THE FRUIT COCKTAIL TREESometimes it is possible to graft types of fruit trees

to a single trunk that are less similar. Stone fruits and

citrus plants are easily adapted to each other, making for

successful grafting of a wider variety of fruit grown in

one spot. The Fruit Cocktail Tree gives you a source for

tree-ripened fruit salad even in a tiny outdoor garden.

Stone fruits are those that have pits, like cherries, peaches,

plums, apricots and nectarines. Citrus gives you limes,

lemons, grapefruits, oranges and tangelos variety. You’ll find

both orchard-on-a-trunk delights available pre-grafted from

online nurseries. Or you could try your hand at grafting and

create your own Fruit Cocktail Tree. Not only could it be

an interesting project, what if one type of fruit on a ready-

made tree isn’t hardy where you live? What if you want only

heirloom varieties or a different mix than you can buy?

NO YARD AT ALL?You can grow fruit trees in large containers where they will

never get more than 6 feet tall. A sort of bonsai orchard

in a movable box that produces full size fruit. So it’s

possible to grow truly dwarf fruit trees on a rooftop, the

balcony or patio. This method would also allow you to take

your orchard with you if you move to a new residence.

Be sure you have proper winter storage for outdoor

container grown fruit trees in a cold climate. Frigid

winter temps aren’t kind to roots above ground. If you

live in the north, container grown fruit trees with proper

winter storage will allow you to grow fresh peaches and

less hardy crops that would never fruit when planted

in the ground. A garage or seasonal room will work for

overwintering. You just need to make sure the temperature

never drops below the lowest range for any given tree.

“GRAFTING ALLOWS YOU TO STICK STEM CUTTINGS TO A MORE DEVELOPED ROOT SYSTEM, OR A MORE ROBUST AND DISEASE RESISTANT VARIETY TO MAKE THE IMPOSSIBLE... POSSIBLE”

Multi-grafted fruit tree

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Page 49: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

GRAFTING I GARDEN CULTURE

49 49 gardenculture.net

GRAFTING I GARDEN CULTURE

WHAT DO I NEED?Obviously, you will need to gather the plants you will use

to make your grafted wonder. Depending on the type

of plant (woody or soft stemmed) you need to decide

if it is best to do stem or bud grafting. The best way

to start your research is searching for answers online.

Next you will need the proper tools and supplies.

Grafting is a precise science, so don’t set yourself up

for failure by trying to improvise. For small projects,

look for a grafting kit online. The basic kits aren’t that

expensive, so it is within most people’s budget to

arm themselves with the stuff that is proven to allow

success. At the very least you need a grafting knife,

grafting tape and grafting wax. To do bud grafts you also

need rubber bud strips. A good grafting kit will also

include a guide booklet you can follow step-by-step.

INVEST IN QUALITY PLANTSNo matter what type of grow you want to do, never

forget that ‘quality in, quality out’ applies to gardening

too. The better the health of the plants you use to graft

your new tree, the easier it will be for you to succeed.

The main tree you use for the trunk should have a well-

developed root system for faster growth and better

graft support. A more whip-like version of what you’re

budding or stem grafting makes more economic sense

as you only need a small piece for your project. Well

developed root systems will cost more as they have

been kept in the nursery at least a year longer for this

purpose.3

Suitable Veggies for Grafting

• Tomatoes

• Peppers

• Eggplants

• Melons

• Cucumbers

“DECIDE IF IT IS BEST TO DO STEM OR BUD GRAFTING”

Page 50: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

50

Mobile farm markets are riding high on the heels of the

white-hot food truck trend. It’s a new take on the old fash-

ioned neighborhood ice cream truck. Instead of selling ice

cream to screaming kids running after a lighthearted tune

coming from a colorful van, you are selling your locally

grown food to enthusiastic urban hipsters. Calling them to

your mobile market with Twitter, FourSquare, geo location

apps like Google Latitude or blasting obscure indie techno

music from your speakers in dense urban neighborhoods.

Pick your vehicle for your mobile market wisely, just re-

member that character matters. Think converted airstream

trailers, ironic postal jeeps or your grandfather’s old pickup.

For some great examples, be sure to check out Lomo Mar-

ket in Raleigh-Durham, NC (www.lomomarket.com) or the

Honeybee Mobile Market (http://www.honeybeemobile-

market.com/). Cost: About the price of a small row tractor.

Mobile markets created from trailers, trucks or vans

are great for when you have planned stops and a bit of

cash. Perhaps you need something cheaper and easi-

er to do without much planning required. Consider a

slower, more approachable alternative: your bike pull-

ing a trailer full of produce. Turning your bike into a

mobile produce stand offers a charming, approachable

venue to sell to urban dwellers as they stroll through

their neighborhoods and downtown restaurant districts.

The slow speed of a bike-borne market makes it easy for

people to stop and buy, keeping you from having to stop for

extended periods and having to get permits or ask permis-

sion from establishments. There are a few farmers expe-

riencing great success with this technique. If you’d like to

try it out yourself “the Mattapan Mobile Farm Stand” is a

great design, view

it here: www.mat-

tapanfoodandf it-

ness.org. Cost:

A new implement

for your tractor.

Celebrate your un-

sold surplus as an

occasion by cook-

ing a farm dinner

at your farm from

your surplus crops.

Agritourism has

proven a very prof-

itable venture for

many farms. There is actually more money in selling the small

farming experience than the products you’ve produced.

Create a “dinner club” and spread the word through your

Twitter, Facebook and Pinterest accounts. Contact a couple

local food bloggers and invite them to a couple in exchange

for posting about the “privileged opportunity” to attend

Tu r n Surplus Crops i n t o You know the routine; you’ve spent months looking after your crops, cared for them and

watched over them carefully. After all your hard work, on the day you harvest your un-

able to sell your gorgeous harvest at the farmers market because it rained, it’s a holiday, or just

bad luck. Perk up! Turn that surplus harvest into an opportunity to experiment with new ex-

citing approaches to direct to customer business models that are a rising trend across the nation.

Marketing Techniques

Ca$h

Mattapan Mobile Farm Stand

“A BIKE-BORNE MARKET MAKES IT

EASY FOR PEOPLE TO STOP AND BUY. NO

PERMITS NEEDED.”

Page 51: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

“CALL YOUR SHOPPERS TO

MARKET ON TWITTER AND FOURSQUARE”

51 51

GOING TO MARKET I GARDEN CULTURE

gardenculture.net

BY BEN GREENE

your farm surplus dinner.

And if your ‘farm’ is in an

urban basement or small

backyard greenhouse?

Improvise! People love

the unique and unusual.

Its not just where you’re

growing, but what you’re

growing that they’re after.

Follow the recipe for success other’s have done well with.

Don’t have enough diversity in your surplus to create an

entire dinner? Create what you can and make it a potluck,

where the cost is half price if the attendees bring a dish.

Lots of candles, white linen covered picnic tables and am-

ple mason jars are sure to create the perfect mood. Some

great examples of farms using on-farm or local pub dinner

clubs effectively are the Rogowski Farm (rogowskifarm.

com) and the Land’s Sake Supper Club (http://www.lands-

sake.org/). Also check out dinner clubs that travel to many

dinners like the Highlands dinner club (highlandsdinner-

club.com) and City Provisions (cityprovisions.com) Cost:

Free meal for friends in exchange for labor and supplies.

Of course, the best option is to eliminate next week’s sur-

plus! Surplus produce is often surplus because your custom-

ers are not familiar with your crop’s use, preparation or just

simply haven’t been inspired to use it. Give them some sug-

gestions by grouping the produce together in “meal packs”.

For example, create a stir fry kit by placing your Asian

greens with a recipe and some bulk seasonings together.

There are many online resources that allow you to type

in your ingredients and an ideal recipe will be generated

from your input, my favorite is gojee.com. This makes

it easy to find a recipe and create soul food meal kits,

salad kits, kids lunch kits, tapas kits, ethnic meal kits, or

create special diet kits like gluten-free, diabetic or pa-

leolithic diets. Cost: Extra labor and sleek packaging.

The prices for these new economic models are within reach

and the most ambitious are often no more expensive than

a piece of production equipment. Instead of increasing your

production this year by 10% with new equipment, consider

receiving twice the price you’d normally receive with an in-

vestment into unique approaches to direct to consumer mar-

keting.3

“PICK YOUR VEHICLE FOR YOUR MOBILE MARKET WISELY... CHARACTER MATTERS”Ca$h

Mattapan Mobile Farm Stand

Page 52: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3
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54

Mothering TECHNIQUES

H O W T O

C A R E F O R

A M O M

Page 55: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

55

MOTHERING TECHNIQUES I GARDEN CULTURE

gardenculture.net

BY JENN DIGIOIA

“IT ONLY TAKES ONE MOTHER PLANT TO CREATE A WHOLE GARDEN OF PLANTS”

Genetically speaking, everyone has a mother. In the horticultural world, being a mom means you

either produce seeds sexually or clones asexually. There are a few different techniques you can use to

reproduce plants without needing pollen from a parent plant(s) to produce seeds. The newest, most

scientific way to do this is tissue culture. This uses a series of chemical processes to grow a full size plant

from a tiny piece of plant tissue, in a test tube. While this method isn’t practical for most gardeners, it

is definitely neat! There are two methods any gardener can easily use: grafting and cloning.

plant. This allows the mother to search out more fertile

ground or better sunlight for her offspring. A mother al-

ways wants the best for her children and the strawberry

mom is no exception. In your garden, you can aim the run-

ners to root into a pot or a desired spot. After the run-

ners have established roots they can

then be cut from the mother plant

for sale or replanting.

Most plants won’t do this naturally,

conveniently creating clones as the

strawberry plant will. So it is impor-

tant to know what to look for when

selecting a mom. You will be making

exact copies of her so choose the

best, strongest looking one you can

find. Keep her planted in a pot that’s large enough to hold

her root mass. The new fabric pots on the market like

smart pots or root pouches are great for mothering pur-

poses. The fabric is a felt-like material and allows air thru

the walls, yet it is enough to not allow light in. This pot can

prevent root rot and root circling known as being ‘root

bound’. Both can stunt or hinder growth at best.

FEEDING YOUR MOTHER Most nutrient product lines have a ‘grow’ formula that,

when fed lightly, will work great for your mom. A few

examples for this are: Botanicare’s Pure Blend Pro Grow

with a liquid N-P-K of (3-2-4), Fox Farms Grow Big (6-4-

4) or General Organics Biothrive Grow (4-3-3).

Need a lot of clones? You may want to train a young seed-

ling to be your mother plant, pruning her to promote

more branching before taking any cuts. We can do this by

WHY DO I NEED A MOTHER PLANT? To get more plants for your garden. Our need for cloning

stems from the gardener’s mantra: bigger, stronger, faster.

One of the big reasons for avid gardeners is to retain ex-

act copies of very rare plants. Cloning can even keep your

grandmother’s heirloom tomato strain

alive for generations to come. It only

takes one mother plant to create a

whole garden of plants. No waiting for

spring to buy plants or for seedlings to

mature. Using cloning to sustainably

manage your vegetable garden just

makes sense. You can make clones of

plants that you consume the most of...

forever.

Cloning is a necessity for some plants. Most of the bananas

we eat today are clones! A devastating genetic mutation

in the edible varieties made the fruits of the banana plants

sterile. In nature this usually means a road to extinction.

Savvy farmers propagated the yummy fruit plants, spread-

ing them around the world centuries ago. Thanks to this

process of cutting the ‘suckers’ from the base of a plant in

the vegetative stage and cloning them, we still have bananas

today. Nor would we have French wine. A set of devastat-

ing disease and pest plagues almost wiped out the vines.

Cloning via grafting with resistant roots saved France’s

vineyards more than a century ago. Obviously, cloning and

mother plants are important to know about.

Nature has cloned on its own forever. Strawberry plants

are a perfect example. The plant will send out a ‘runner’

shoot at the base parallel to the ground. When it reaches

fertile soil, it automatically produces roots, forming a new

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57

MOTHERING TECHNIQUES I GARDEN CULTURE

TAKING THE CUTAlways start the cutting process with clean equipment

and have everything ready to go. You will need a sterile

blade or scissors, growing medium or rooting plugs, a

rooting hormone to aid in the process and of course

your mother plant. Choose a branch for the cutting that

includes new growth with at least 2-3 sets of leaves. Cut

at a 45 degree angle and quickly get the cut end into the

rooting hormone, then push the dipped end down into

growing medium. Mist cuttings daily with water to keep

them happy until roots begin to form.

THE MOTHER OF INVENTION & SPEEDGrafting takes the root sys-

tem of one plant called a

‘rootstock’ and fuses a cut-

ting called a ‘scion’ to the

top. The plant created has

the genetics of the mother

plant and the rootstock will

supply the uptake of nutrients

through its root system. You can

use the grafting technique to get cre-

ative, combining different mixes of colors

and types of desired crop characteristics of rootstock

and cuttings. It can also allow your plants to overcome

stress factors like diseases or pests, and even the soil

quality of an outdoor garden.

Grafting can make your indoor garden more efficient.

Grafted vegetable plants can also

deliver an earlier harvest and

a much longer harvest pe-

riod. Reproducing ready

to bloom plants offers a

variety of benefits. Suc-

cess starts with a healthy,

happy mom and knowing

when to make the cut. 3

“IT IS IMPORTANT TO KNOW WHAT TO LOOK FOR WHEN SELECTING A MOM”

simply trimming the top new growth of the main branch-

es as the plant gets bigger. Remember, less is more when

pruning anything! Be sure to make cuts above at least

two sets of growth so that when you cut one main stalk,

two branches will form from the leaf sets below.

You can continue to use this manipulation trick as the

mother plant grows until you have enough branches to

accommodate your cloning needs. For faster branching,

try an extra nutrient boost using a marine algae product

such as Nitrozime or Bioweed. These help to create the

burst of new shoots at the right time. It can also help

with the rooting process, so include it with the week-of-

cutting feeding too.

MAKING GOOD BABIESCloning is best done in the vegetative stage of growth

for almost all plants. You will need to set up a light to

provide 18 hours of light for your mom to keep her in

that stage (ready) for vegetative propagation.

Mother plants need a regular schedule for nutrients and

water. Being careful not to overdo it on either. Over-

feeding can lock out essential nutrients your mom needs

to thrive. Overwatering can cause a multitude of mold,

fungus and bug problems. An over flux of food or water

in your mom’s system when it comes time to take cut-

tings can also make rooting more difficult. Giving your

mom the right food before cloning her can make a

world of difference in the babies. Remember what-

ever is in her system at the time of cutting will also be

in the system of the clone.

A good rule of thumb is to cut your normal fertilizer

mixing directions in half a week before taking cuttings.

Adding a bit of vitamins and hormones to that week’s

feeding is also a good idea. A dose of Superthrive is also

great for the expectant mother. Follow label directions

for mixing. When deciding how much to water take the

simple route and touch the growing medium. You want

moist media, not wet. If the media dries up between

feedings just use plain water to supplement.

Page 58: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

58

on the greenhouse project took

2 years to complete, and started

the first crop in February 2013

with a first harvest planned for

late spring. Along the way, Agoa-

da formed partnerships with a

team of highly qualified professionals, each with a distinct

set of skills and knowledge to take the fledgling farm from

startup to success in short order. The scientific advisory

board includes Will Allen from Milwaukee’s Growing Pow-

er, and Michael Christian from American Hydroponics.

The South Bronx is a place that has distinct cultural groups,

each with their own organizations. In forming partnerships

with local neighborhood groups, Sky Vegetables ensure

that good food is being made available to people living in

the blocks surrounding the farm. Plans include hiring and

training from the neighborhood to fill the duties of caring

While urban farms aren’t new to

New York City, the Sky site toward

the north end of the metropolis

isn’t a touring stop. It’s a serious

agricultural operation that will sup-

ply fresh, locally grown food to the

neighborhood via harvest boxes through community sup-

ported agriculture programs, as well as through markets

across the Bronx borough. All produce is grown without

pesticides or insecticides in greenhouses that will use solar

power and rainwater harvesting. Unlike many other urban

farms across the country, Sky Farm is a totally hydroponic

operation.

Partnerships Are Big At SkyKeith Agoada, founder of Sky Vegetables, began planning

the now functioning rooftop farm in 2009. Construction

Sustainable urban farming hits the roof - literally, and on several levels. In the low income food desert known

as the South Bronx, Sky Vegetables is paving the way to greener inner city neighborhoods everywhere. It’s

a farm that residents will no doubt look up to for multiple reasons, the most obvious being that the totally

closed unit occupies the rooftop of a newly constructed 8-story apartment building.

GREEN

“ T H E M A R R I A G E O F G R E E N B U I L D I N G

TO R O O F TO P G R E E N H O U S E FA R M ”

“ N OT H I N G Q U I T E L I K E I T E X I S T S E L S E W H E R E”

FARM ABOVEUBER

Page 59: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

59

for the crops, harvest, distribution and community out-

reach. Since his initial concept to what is now a reality,

Agoada always saw teaching people in the neighborhood

how the growing operation ticks as part of his big picture.

Green InnovationsArbor House, that sits beneath Sky Farm, is not your aver-

age affordable rent building. Freshly completed by Blue Sea

Development, 124-unit housing project is a model in green

building and sustainable living for the city, the state, and

literally all of the United States. Adding a vegetable farm

to the roof is like the icing on the cake. “It is an exciting

project,” as Laurie Schoeman, NYC Community Relations

Manager for Sky puts it. Nothing quite like it exists else-

where.

Innovation abounds between the marriage of green build-

ing to rooftop greenhouse farm. The partnership between

59

Sky Vegetables and Blue Sea is one to be proud of. For

residents, the place is full of healthy lifestyle perks from

the living green wall in the foyer to music in the stairways,

and on to energy efficiency that will allow them more af-

fordable utility bills. While residents might not be able to

access the farm casually, it provides important heating and

cooling benefits to their homes. Arbor House is construct-

ed mainly with recycled materials, and was awarded both

a Platinum LEEDS certification and NAHB Green certifica-

tion.

The Crops and SystemsUnder the direction of master hydro farmer, Joe Schwartz

and his assistant Kate Ahearn, winter crops provide the

neighborhood with lots of fresh greens, including kale, 5

kinds of lettuce, chard and basil. Warmer weather will

bring more sunshine and the crops will change to take ad-

UBERGREEN FARM I GARDEN CULTURE

gardenculture.net

GREEN

BY TAMMY CLAYTON

“SKY VEGETABLES IS PAVING THE WAY TO GREENER INNER CITY

NEIGHBOURHOODS EVERYWHERE”

Page 60: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

Vertical garden in lobby

60

GARDEN CULTURE I UBERGREEN FARM

vantage of that, versus the use of grow lights that is needed

to supplement on days with less than 6 hours of sunlight.

Grow lights are also used for germination to ensure the

process is smooth.

All growing equipment used in the rooftop farm comes

from American Hydroponics. Sky Farm will employ 20 full

time and 10 part time workers. They’re using NFT and

flood and drain setups for seed germination. Anticipated

yields of 300-400 tons of local fresh produce are expected

every year from the 8000 square foot growing space.

Aiming HighSky Farm and Arbor House in the Bronx offers the world a

model for sustainable development and building integrated

agriculture. On a mission to improve city dweller’s health

and nutrition, Sky Vegetables also seeks to help localize the

economy, help educate community residents and youth to

growing fresh food, create new jobs, as well as promoting

healthy eating through community programming.

For Sky Vegetables, anticipation for germinating that first

crop’s seeds spanned years. It’s not the end of new begin-

nings for this urban agriculture company. They are already

busy planning the next Sky Farm. Where it will appear has

not been decided, though possible locations exist. One

thing you can most likely count on, it won’t grace the top

of just any building. The project will no doubt be greener

than green.3

“ANTICIPATED YIELDS OF 300-400 TONS OF LOCAL FRESH PRODUCE ARE EXPECTED EVERY YEAR”

On a mission to improve city dweller’s nutrition, Sky

Vegetables also seeks to help localize the economy, help

educate community residents and youth to growing fresh

food, create new jobs, as well as promoting healthy eating

through community programming

Page 61: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3
Page 62: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

62

If you’ve eaten fresh

ginger, you haven’t

really experi-

enced it at its

finest, until

you’ve had Bik-

er Dude Ginger.

You won’t find

it just anywhere, but

those who frequent Whole

Foods, and other specialty organic

grocery stores, have easy access to the best ginger avail-

able in the country. It’s the only brand of ginger you can

buy that is completely disease-free.

Not that all other fresh ginger in stores is harmful if eat-

en. Ginger is so prone to plant pests and diseases that it’s

surely tainted when grown in soil. The trick for traditional

growers is getting the crop out of the ground before the

root quality diminishes to an unsellable state. It’s a field

crop relying heavily on chemicals to bring it to the harvest

stage. Biker Dude Ginger stands apart from the competi-

tion by a mile. It never touches the soil - or the average

grocery store shelf.

Grown in a remote part of Hawaii, even the seed is pris-

tine. A feat possible only through tissue culture. Like many

root crops, sterile ginger is grown from pieces of a mature

root. All ginger seed produced in soil may already be infect-

ed with fusarium or bacterial wilt. When fusarium strikes,

Hugh Johnson will tell you that he’s just a dirt farmer from North Carolina, but Biker Dude Organic

Hawaiian Ginger is cream of the crop. A brand with such a reputation for quality in the U.S. that picky

retailers, discerning chefs, and high-end organic consumers know it by name. The branding alone is unfor-

gettable. The quality is superior.

“Puna Organics is the oldest organic ginger farm in Hawaii”

BY TAMMY CLAYTON

BikerDude

King of Organic

Hawaiian Ginger

“Biker Dude Organic Hawaiian Ginger is cream of the crop”

Page 63: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

63 63 gardenculture.net

the grower is lucky to harvest half of the crop. If it’s the

dreaded bacterial wilt, the entire crop is lost, and the dis-

ease remains active in the soil for 10 years. Both of these

pathogens are huge problems due to Hawaii’s wet climate.

Up until about 5 years ago, Hugh grew ginger for the U.S.

market organically in soil. Farming

is hard enough, but the persistent

soil-borne disease issues brought

him to join forces with Daniel Kel-

ly. Dan brought tissue culture and

off-ground growing in coir to Biker

Dude Ginger production. Puna Or-

ganics is the oldest organic ginger

farm in Hawaii, and light-years ahead

of the competition, which is why their fresh ginger is in big

demand on the high-end organic market coast to coast.

Hugh and Dan have other irons in the fire, and edible ginger

is only part of the Biker Dude enterprise. They also grow

organic turmeric, and can import fresh ginger and turmer-

ic to Canada as a food. The Puna Organics operation is

more diversified than edible harvests. They sell coir from

inland Thailand too. Their coir is much lower in salts than

any other product on the market,

because it doesn’t come from a

coastal area. Always aged 2 years,

and washed to have below .5 EC.

In 2014, they’re introducing 10 va-

rieties of medicinal ginger. They

also sell disease-free organic turmeric and ginger seed to

mainland growers. You can grow organic baby ginger in

most climates, even in the northern states, and it’s a huge

hit at farm markets everywhere. For market growers, fresh

baby ginger is an exciting crop with a lucrative price tag for

produce that has a waiting market. They’d love to ship their

top quality ginger seed beyond the U.S., though importing

regulations are tricky.

“the only brand of ginger you can buy that is completely

disease-free”

ORGANIC GINGER I GARDEN CULTURE

Page 64: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

64

And finally,

Hugh and

his wife, El-

vira run a

sus t a inab le

resort serving

up a funky blend

of southern hospital-

ity and aloha in the middle

of beautiful Hawaiian nowhere.

Ginger is best grown in bags off the ground using drip ir-

rigation. It’s a crop that requires hilling, like potatoes and

leeks. Sunburn is an issue without covering the rhizomes

as they develop, decreasing it’s marketability, so it’s not

well-suited for hydroponics. It’s most efficiently grown

outdoors or in a greenhouse, and not under lights. The

crop takes a full season to reach the baby ginger harvest

state in subtropical climates.

Toying with the idea of growing baby ginger from root-

stock bought at the grocery store? Unless it’s Biker Dude

brand - don’t plant it in the ground! Fusarium spreads like

the plague on your hands, shoes, clothes, and garden tools.

You’ll infect your soil with pathogens that can attack a lot

of other crops in your garden.

“A field crop relying heavily on chemicals...”

“Ginger is best grown in bags off the ground using drip irrigation.”

ginger tissue culture

“their fresh ginger is in big demand on the

high-end organic market”

Want more info on Puna Organics?www.hawaiianorganicginger.com

Page 65: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

65

ORGANIC GINGER I GARDEN CULTURE

Love ginger ale? Make your own - it puts the stuff you buy at the store to shame. Best of all, it’s

super easy to whip up. Add some ice and enjoy!

Homemade Ginger Ale

RECIPE

Ingredients:• 2 cups peeled, coarsely chopped fresh organic ginger

(about 10 ounces)

• 3 strips lemon peel (about 4 inches each),

yellow part only

• 1-1/2 cups sugar

• 4 cups water

• 3 quarts chilled club soda

• Ice cubes

Directions:Put ginger, lemon peel, and water in a 4-quart pan. Bring to a

boil over high heat. Reduce heat a bit, and simmer 10 minutes

uncovered at a low boil. Add sugar, stirring constantly, and con-

tinue to boil until reduced to about 3 cups - about 15 minutes.

Cover a large bowl with a fine wire strainer, and pour in

your ginger mixture to separate solids from liquid. Discard

the lemon peel, but save the candied ginger. It’s great for

topping ice cream, stirred into yogurt, among other uses.

Cool the syrup, pour into a glass container, seal tightly, and

chill at least 1 hour until cold. Can be stored up to 1 week.

For each 16-ounce serving, mix 1/4 cup ginger syrup

with 1 cup cold club soda and pour over ice. Addi-

tional ginger syrup and/or sugar may be added to taste.

Yield: 4 quarts. 3

65 gardenculture.net

Page 66: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

we’ve got an eye

GARDEN CULTURE OFFERS ADVERTISERS: · EXCELLENT EXPOSURE · STRATEGIC PLACEMENTS· GREAT RATESMORE INFO ON WWW.GARDENCULTURE.NET

for green business

GARDENCU LT U R E

caughtyour

EYE?

Page 67: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

GARDENCU LT U R E

caughtyour

EYE?

Page 68: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

68

Soil Techniques in hydroponics

“Does a human truly know what a plant WANTS?”

When people are first introduced to hydroponics many marvel at the concept of roots

growing in water and the “technology” involved, or the magic of producing yields ten

and even twenty times larger per acre than those accomplished in soil. While these are

certainly real and relevant ideas, the reality is that a plant is a plant. Even if it was growing

on Mars it would still require the same basic requirements provided by Mother Nature.

The name of the growing game is how to deliver these most efficiently and effectively.

This is best accomplished by considering what the plant wants, not what we want to get

out of the plant. Think of it this way, it is one thing to allow a plant to grow, but it’s another

entirely to allow your plants to thrive.

Page 69: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

69 69

SOIL TECHNIQUES I GARDEN CULTURE

gardenculture.net

BY EVAN FOLDS

For instance, as is attested to by anyone who has used

them, a basic hydroponic nutrient is sufficient to grow a

plant successfully. In other words, it’s designed to provide

everything the plant requires to grow, which amounts to

anywhere from 15-17 elements, depending on who you ask.

Now let’s ask ourselves a question. There are over 90

Earth-bound elements on the periodic table, so why would

Mother Nature make an element not needed in the garden?

Think about that. Does a human truly know what a plant

wants?

The fact is that using natural and “organic” products al-

low people to use a wider variety of elemental nutrition

unconsciously without choosing to bring these materials to

the table because they are diverse by Nature. This is the

basis for the generally accepted concept that hydroponics

delivers higher yields, but “organics” brings a higher quality.

There is truth to this idea. But it is also true that you can

get the best of both worlds.

In order to express these ideas fully it helps to have a clear

delineation of soil growing versus hydroponic growing. In

the simplest terms, hydroponic gardening is an emphasis on

growing the plant, while growing in soil is a focus on grow-

ing the soil, or more directly, growing microorganisms.

Microbes are beneficial to plants directly through making

perfect plant food and helping them eat it, as well as indi-

rectly by acting as a preventive measure towards root and

foliar disease and pest infestations.

It is an apt analogy to compare the living organisms that

make up the soil food web to that of the ocean food web.

Microscopic organism activity supports the entire ecosys-

tem of the ocean, such as photosynthetic bacteria or plank-

ton. In general terms, the big fish eats the small fish and all

survive by attaining biological balance. The strength of the

system is in the diversity and the magic is found, not in a

single component, but in the symbiosis and synergy of the

web of life.

The same is true in the soil. Microorganisms, or microbes,

are the plankton of the soil food web. Up to 50% of the

food plants make for themselves in photosynthesis is actu-

ally fed through its roots as an exudate to attract microbes.

There is an intelligence to this system, and take note that

this teamwork is generally absent from a conventional hy-

droponic system offering only 15-17 elements and water.

Thinking about these systems properly is very important.

In fact, it is the very act of treating soil environments like

hydroponic applications that cause so many of the issues

we experience on our farms and in our residential land-

scapes. Artificial products do not feed microbes. And mi-

crobes make plant food, people don’t.

Given this understanding, the trick is in how to get mi-

crobes and the natural processes of Nature to support the

yield enhancing benefits of hydroponic applications. One of

the best ways to do this is using living compost tea.

Compost tea is the act of growing microbes using diverse

food and mineral sources within aerated water. The result

is microbiological reproduction and the perfect plant food

being created.

While many choose to maintain “cleanliness”, in all real-

ity considering the above arguments, the most important

place to use compost tea is in a hydroponic system.

For instance, budget fertilizers contain maybe 7-8 total

elements, a hydroponic fertilizer maybe 17, but a good

compost tea recipe contains over 90 elements. Not only

are there more elements, but they are more available and

there are more forms of them. Nature makes isotopes, or

different forms of the same element. Never heard of it?

Look it up.

So there’s the total number of elements and the form po-

tential of those elements, but let’s take it one step further.

The different elements actually work together to produce

superior results in the garden.

That’s right. It’s accepted knowledge in good agronomy

that, for example, you want manganese at ½ of iron, or

“A PLANT IS A PLANT - REQUIRING THE SAME BASIC ELEMENTS EVEN IF YOU’RE GROWING ON MARS”

Page 70: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

Compost tea can, and should be, used

in every garden. Water culture

hydroponics is a technique

most vulnerable to root dis-

ease because the roots are

constantly submerged in

the reservoir solution.

The above illustration il-

lustrates this. The fertilizer

solution constantly aerates the

roots from the bottom as they

grow into the solution.

The organisms that cause common

rooting diseases are always pres-

ent in a hydroponic reservoir in the

same way that mold grows when a

room is humid. Again, it is weak

plants and inferior conditions that

allow them to express themselves.

This grower had some browning

roots that were limp and looked

disease prone (pic at left). The

roots were not yet rotten, but slime coated and the plant

growth was limping along.

Once the severely damaged roots were

removed, and compost tea was added

to the reservoir, BOOM, the fresh new

white roots are popping out like crazy.

The picture to the right shows the dif-

ference only 48 hours after adding com-

post tea to the reservoir.

that zinc is 1/10th of phosphorous in or-

der for plants to have adequate ac-

cess to these elements. In other

words, certain elements un-

lock others in proper ratios.

The idea is not to figure all

of this out, it is arguable if

that is even possible. But

one thing is for sure, if

you don’t put all the play-

ers on the field... your

team will not win as many

games.

The diagram on the right is

not proof of anything. It was put

together by many people through

many anecdotal experiences. And it is

only scratching the surface. But most of the

important information cannot be measured directly. Such

is life.

Regardless, it provides a window into the complexity and

potential of balanced growing with natural potential and

hopefully challenges the grower to think outside of the box

of good enough. We need to start asking ourselves what

we’re missing before all we are left with are empty geneti-

cally modified plants. But that’s another article. (Note - A

smilie was here)

Even one step further, it is important to consider elemen-

tal diversity from a plants perspective, but it may even be

more important to consider it from a microbes perspec-

tive. Microbes create and use enzymes to do their work

and every element on the period table has an enzyme po-

tential. It’s called a co-factor, meaning the specific element

defines the enzyme and acts as a backbone, so to speak.

So in a very real sense, without all elements in your garden

it’s like hiring microbes to build a house and giving them

only half the tools.

“THERE ARE OVER 90 EARTH-BOUND ELEMENTS ON THE PERIODIC TABLE, SO WHY WOULD MOTHER NATURE MAKE AN ELEMENT NOT NEEDED IN THE GARDEN? BASIC HYDROPONIC NUTRIENTS HAVE ONLY 15-17 ELEMENTS”

70

elemental connection

root slime

no slime left!

Page 71: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

71

Below is 72 hours after adding compost tea to the reser-

voir with images of two more plants that were in the same

system. All of them have pearly white roots exploding from

the root system. The above images are the middle plant

below.

Here is another side-by-side from a customer using com-

post tea in hydroponics. In the image to the left you see

rooting before adding compost tea. The image to the right

shows the same plant 48 hours after adding it.

Following is a side-by-side we did in-house in an ebb & flow

hydroponic system. They were grown next to each other

in separate systems.

The plant on the left was the control and grown with a base

hydroponic fertilizer and water. The plant on the right re-

ceived 1 cup per gallon of compost tea with the same base

hydroponic fertilizer. The results speak for themselves.

SOIL TECHNIQUES I GARDEN CULTURE

gardenculture.net

“UP TO 50% OF THE FOOD PLANTS MAKE IS ACTUALLY EXUDED THROUGH ITS ROOTS TO ATTRACT MICROBES”

Pearly white root system after 72 hours with compost tea

before addition of compost teaafter 48 hours with compost tea

WITHOUT Compost Tea WITH Compost Tea

Many already use hybrid approaches using “soilless” mixes

containing peat moss or coir fiber. They cost less and are a

suitable for making custom mixes. They are also more suit-

able for establishing healthy microbiological activity.

And if you’re wondering. Don’t be concerned about kill-

ing microbes with artificial hydroponic nutrients. You’re

not helping them, but microbes are extremely resilient and,

generally speaking, if you are not harming plants with the

salt toxicity you are not hurting the microbes.

Besides, microbes actually act as a clearing solution. Most

hydroponic growers tell themselves that living compost tea

solutions will “contaminate” or “gunk up” their systems

with bioslimes and all sorts of other scary things, when, in

fact, the opposite is true. Use compost tea at a 1:20 ratio on

reservoir changes and you will have the cleanest reservoir

you’ve ever seen. Try it.

Just goes to show that sometimes life is not as it seems.

Consider the perspective that the first thing that we should

know is that we don’t. The humility in this approach is

where real progress is made.

Happy growing. 3

Page 72: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

72

The problem with standard containers and planters is the you must pour lots of water in through the top

to get good consistent moisture to all the roots. Potting mix has sharp drainage to protect roots from rot,

so you have very low moisture retention as all unabsorbed moisture quickly exits at the bottom. This is

great on automated irrigation. At home, it results in plants enjoying a heavy drink, getting parched, binge

again existence... and the cycle continues for the length of their life.

Not only is this a huge waste of water, it throws your plants off-balance. First they’re lovin’ life. Next

they’re battling stress. Then it’s back to living large again when you come by with the watering can.

You know what this kind of constant mood and energy swing does to you. Imagine what it does to

plants and their ability to grow food!

(self irrigating planter)

“THIS TECHNIQUE IS ALSO KNOWN

AS PASSIVE HYDROPONICS”

PLANTS AREN’T MADE FOR CONTAINERSContainer growing any plant means being super vigilant

in staying on top of your watering. Let it get too dry and

you have foliar damage at best. This situation can maim

or kill even a rugged plant quickly under the midday sun

outdoors. Inside a building won’t make parched potting

mix any friendlier. In fact, it’s much more critical. Modern

homes and offices are climate controlled, free of dew and

rainfall.

With a SIP system, or self irrigating planter, you can still en-

joy just picked delicious produce at a far lower cost. You’ll

also use way less water and none of it is wasted. The bonus

with these growing systems is that you have greatly re-

duced your risk of crop loss because you forgot to water.

autopot

Page 73: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

73 73

seeds. Here your containers sit on an absorbent mat with

ends that drop over a riser stand to draw water from the

pan below. In a seed starting tray like this, a clear plastic

dome keeps moisture from simply evaporating and disap-

pearing too quickly. Self watering growing systems today

also enclose the water tray and reservoir for this same

reason.

Old fashioned methods of wicking into containers used

cotton rope to pull water from the reservoir into the con-

tainer where the media and roots could do their thing.

Technology and advanced knowledge has improved this

technique of low maintenance growing. Some SIP systems

still use a wick, others use the wicking action naturally

present in soil or moisture holding media.

Water is heavy, but with proper aeration, any of it stored

below is drawn up into the substrate easily without a

wick. That is what capillary action is all about. When fine

tunnels are available in the soil or potting mix, water can

defy gravity and rise. Your plants make full use of it where

it counts most - at the root zone. A huge reduction in

water use and foliar issues from overhead watering.

You can increase your water conservation with the use of

lightweight sheet mulch covering the surface of the grow-

ing media. Additionally, these techniques allow fruits and

veggies grown anywhere with minimal labor while deliver-

ing high yields in a very compact space.

HOW DO I GET ONE?You can buy ready to use systems online, at local garden

centres and hydro shops. What you can grow this way

runs the full gamut. There are shallow planters perfect

for herbs and greens to those large enough to grow sweet

corn and full-sized tomato plants. Plant a mixed mini plot

in a single container, or a whole garden of goodness grow-

ing in several containers at once.

SIP GARDENING I GARDEN CULTURE

gardenculture.net

BY TAMMY CLAYTON

You can also go away for a week and not come home to

dead plants. The biggest benefit might be that your har-

vest will ripen more quickly than in a traditional summer

garden and with a higher yield.

Here’s the really cool part. You can grow totally organic

food this way - indoors or outside. SIP gardens are per-

fect for an empty corner, a windowsill, rooftop gardens,

patios, balconies, classrooms, greenhouses and even your

office. For best results indoors, do plan on using full sun

intensity grow lights.

HOW DOES THIS WORK?Any self watering planting system will hold a great deal of

water in a reservoir with a storage capacity ranging from

one to many gallons. Some are battery operated drip sys-

tems and others use natural gravity, water pressure and a

specially designed container. An important note about in-

expensive automated drip systems. Your tap water could

cause problems with valve functioning. Claber makes one

you’ll find easy to locate that can water 20 plants for 40

days, but the reviews are anything but glowing. Why both-

er if it’s not reliable?

Gravity is free and far less prone to issues. Plants know

exactly how to make this system work. The simplest form

of self irrigating system uses what is known as wicking

or capillary action. This has long been used for starting

“WITH A SIP SYSTEM, OR SELF IRRIGATING

PLANTER... ENJOY JUST PICKED DELICIOUS

PRODUCE AT A FAR LOWER COST. YOU’LL ALSO USE WAY LESS

WATER AND NONE OF IT WILL BE WASTED”

homemade set-up

EARTHBOX SHOOL GARDEN

Page 74: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

 

Page 75: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

75 gardenculture.net

“WATER CAN DEFY GRAVITY AND RISE INTO MEDIA USING CAPILLARY ACTION.”“.”“YOU CAN GROW INDOORS AND OUTDOORS WITH ONE UNIT - DEPENDING ON THE SEASON.”

SIP GARDENING I GARDEN CULTURE

BRANDS TO INVESTIGATEAll of these function without timers or power,

though you do need electricity for grow lights

for reliable indoor gardening. If the SIP system

has a pump, it operates using gravity triggered by

water level when needed. This technique is also

known as passive hydroponics.

EarthBox• Window box styling; 2 sizes & 3 colors

• Fill your own or purchase a full kit

• Organic kit available

• Accessories & supplies available

• Priced from $25

• More info and dealer location:

www.earthbox.com

Lucheza• Gorgeous individual pots for discerning

indoor gardeners

• Priced from $25

• Supplies & accessories available

• Visual reservoir level monitor

• Stacking systems available

• More info: www.lechuza.es

Autopot Easy 2 Grow• Gravity triggered pump

• Passive hydroponics

• Natural capillary activity

• Reservoir feeds & waters up to 4 weeks

• 2 pot system kit with reservoir

• Used in homes and commercial growing

• Expandable system with 1-2 pot trays

• Larger reservoirs available

• Priced from $70

• More info: www.autopot-usa.com

STRAPPED FOR CASH?You can build your own SIP planters. Check

out these great plans that could cost as

little as $6 to complete here: http://www.

seattleoil.com/Flyers/Earthbox.pdf. Prac-

tice some savvy repurposing or recycling,

and you might do it for less. If you’re new

to growing food,

the DIY directions

on that web page

explains what you

need once you’ve

got your planter

built. There are also

winterization tips

if gardening solely outdoors, but you can

grow indoors and outdoors with one unit

- depending on the season.

A note about building your own. Look for

plastic tubs that are safe, like recyclable

symbol 5 on the bottom, which identifies

food grade polypropylene construction.

WHICH IS BETTER?Factory produced systems are probably

much more durable and they are the clos-

est thing to a plug and play SIP garden pos-

sible. If you’re not real handy and can afford

them, buying a ready made gardening sys-

tem might be your key to success. 3

“CONTAINER GROWING ANY PLANT MEANS

BEING SUPER VIGILANT IN STAYING ON TOP OF

YOUR WATERING”

YOU CAN BUY SIP

PLANTERS OR BUILD YOUR

OWN

EarthBox

Lucheza

autopot

quadgrow slim

 

Page 76: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

76

Cuttings are ideal for

aeroponic systems be-

cause the roots grow

much faster than in

growing medium and

they are less prone to

diseases because the

roots are in air instead

of lying in growing sub-

strates that provide a

habitat for pathogens.

Cuttings rooted in

aeroponics are ideal for

transplanting into hydro-

ponic and soil based growing systems. Often, many grow-

ers use aeroponic rooting machines like the EZ-CLONE

aeroponic cloning machine or they may create their own

system from a plastic storage bin and spare plumbing parts

from their local hydroponic retailer.

Here are the some simple steps to use a rooting machine

to turn your fresh cuttings into a rooting extravaganza!

Embrace the Awesome

Power of Air

STEP 1. Fill ‘er up!Fill your machine with room temperature water.

You might be inclined to throw some nutrients into the wa-

ter at this stage, but your cuttings will not uptake the nutri-

ents because they lack roots. As you begin to notice roots,

you can gradually add nutrients to feed your cuttings. It’s

recommended to use non organic mineral based nutrients

over organic nutrients because the plant can immediately

absorb the nutrients. There are numerous nutrient mixes

on the market designed for rooting cuttings. Look for nu-

trient products with phosphorus to encourage the growth

of your roots. Try to get you’re your EC between 0.4 and

0.6.

STEP 2. Environment ControlsPamper your cuttings with an ideal temperature of around

75 degrees Fahrenheit and try to keep the highest tem-

perature to below 84ºF to reduce stress. The nutrient

solution should stay between 79-84ºF. Keep an eye on the

submerged pumps, air vents, and placement on appliances,

or strong sunlight that could vary the temperature of the

nutrient solution.

If you’ve got the need for speed let go of your dir t and water! Aeroponics, cultivating plants in

an air or mist environment without a growing medium. Aeroponics often uses misting nozzles to

create a humid environment that roots thrive in.

“Pamper your cuttings”

All images courtesy of EZCLONE, INC (http://www.ezclone.com/)

“Cuttings are ideal for aeroponic systems because the roots grow much faster...”

Page 77: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

77 77

CUTTINGS I GARDEN CULTUREBY BEN GREENE

gardenculture.net

Embrace the Awesome

Power of Air

STEP 3. Light it up!Cuttings require much less light than they will need dur-

ing later stages of their life. Avoid intense light and direct

sunlight as it distracts the plants from rooting. Window

sills are fine, but growers prefer the control of 55 watt T5

fluorescent lights placed 12-14 inches above the cuttings.

The lights should stay on for 18-24 hours a day for maxi-

mum growth.

STEP 4. Place your cuttings into the aeroponic machineMany aeroponic machines use neoprene foam inserts. En-

sure that your foam inserts are clean and free from debris

to prevent disease. You should insert the cuttings into the

slit in the foam, allowing 2” of the stem to dangle into the

misting chamber. Only bare stems should be placed in the

misting chamber.

STEP 5. Go Forth and Grow!Expect the leaves on your cutting to wilt slightly for a few

hours while they are becoming adjusted to their new envi-

ronment. If the cuttings continue to wilt, mist the leaves

with water. If it looks like you may lose a couple of cuttings

after the first 24 hours, go ahead and create a replacement

for those. You should begin to see white roots forming on

the cuttings by day 3. At this stage you can begin to add

your nutrient solution.

Keep an eye on the machine and ensure that your nozzles

don’t clog, this is very important, because extended peri-

ods of dry air will lead to a quick death for your cuttings!

On day 7, you should notice a proliferation of roots form-

ing. This is just the beginning! Give your cutting 4 more

days to develop its root system and mature into its own

plant. Root hair formation is a sure sign that your cuttings

are ready to transplant. If you’re not in a hurry to plant,

your plants can survive for weeks in the aeroponic ma-

chine. Go forth and grow! 3

“Use non organic mineral based

nutrients”

: “If you’ve got the need for speed

let go of your dirt and water!”

Page 78: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3
Page 79: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

79 gardenculture.net

SOIL-TACOS I GARDEN CULTUREBY: TAMMY CLAYTON, PHOTOS:GABY BRONSTEIN

HOW TO MAKE SOIL TACOS FOR GROWING MICRO GREENS

Give the micro greens a treatment of Earth Tonic Concentrated Ocean Water now and once a week until harvest. Water the

trays daily. Here’s Gaby Bronstein’s micro greens potting mix recipe: 80% peat moss, 20% perlite. Add a little oyster shell to

improve pH, a little Earth Recharge from Progressive Earth, and a tiny bit of worm castings. Mix well and moisten before filling

micro green growing trays. 3

Use 46” of good 2-ply paper toweling.

Cheap brands or recycled towels don’t

work. Try Bounty or Brawny..

Lay one end of toweling in tray. Spray

the towel in the bottom of the tray with

water to hold in place.

Add your micro green growing mix.

Spread and smooth it out. Only half fill

the tray’s depth.

Fold other half of the toweling over to

cover your growth media in the tray.

Tuck the paper towel in between media

and tray on the end and both sides.

Wet down the top of your soil taco

with water from your sprayer.

Sprinkle a handful of seed over the wet

surface. Mist the seed. Cover with an

empty tray.

Mist with plain water 3 times a day.

Constant moisture and you’ll have this

2 days later.

Remove the tray on day 3. The yellowish

sprouts will quickly green up under lights.

31 2

64 5

97 8

Page 80: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

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Page 82: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

82

Growing Micro Greens Indoors at John Ash and Co.

BY GABY BRONSTEIN

Bringing the Farm intothe Kitchen…

Thanks to chefs like Alice Waters and John Ash in California, the “Farm to Table” movement has seen

exponential growth in restaurants across the country in recent years. The philosophy of farm to table

is simple one, based on restaurants using locally grown, seasonal ingredients on their menus. In most

cases, this establishes a relationship between the restaurant and the farm. Often times, the restaurant

may actually be on the same property as the farm. This blended model not only allows the chef to give

input on what’s grown, but it also allows for harvesting the fruits and vegetables at peak ripeness and

plated within minutes harvest. Foods delivered to your plate with this method not only have peak flavor,

they also have maximum nutritional value.

Page 83: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

83 83 gardenculture.net

I find it interesting even with the rapid growth of the Farm To

Table movement, very few, if any restaurants grow their own

micro greens on-site. The restaurants

I spoke to buy their micro greens from

local farms or farmers markets, and

refrigerate them for a few days before

using them. I realized this presented

a unique opportunity to help restau-

rants to not only increase freshness

and nutritional value, but to also lower food costs simultane-

ously. Much of the cost of micro greens is the packaging, deliv-

ery and marketing, and nothing is more nutritious pound for

pound as garden fresh micro greens.

Following a good friend’s suggestion, I contacted some restau-

rants to see if they would be interested in me helping them

grow micro greens on-site. I did a quick internet search where

I live for “Top Restaurants Santa Rosa California.“ The num-

ber one response was “John Ash & Co. ” PERFECT!!! Not

only is John Ash and Co. one of Sonoma County’s top restau-

rants, but the namesake, John Ash, is both the “The Father of

Wine Country Cuisine,“ and one of the pioneers of the Farm

to Table movement.

I emailed the Executive Chef, Thomas Schmidt, with the pro-

posal of helping them grow micro greens indoors on-site. I

asked if I could deliver a sample so

he could see what we could produce

there. To my joy and amazement a

response to my email arrived imme-

diately, because the chef was inter-

ested!

I made arrangements to deliver samples and to speak with

Chef Schmidt later on that week. Arriving at the restaurant

for our meeting, I could see he was pleasantly surprised that

I brought flats of LIVE micro greens. The samples included

Arugula , Red Russian Kale, Daikon and Red Rambo Radishes,

Broccoli, Opal Basil , Snap Peas, 3 types of Mustards, as well as

a Spicy and Mild Mix.

The vibrancy and flavor of my micro green samples impressed

Chef Schmidt, but he was a little concerned about how much

space would be needed to grow enough micro greens to sup-

ply the restaurant. I explained that if we used Growlab Hor-

ticultural’s Clonelab Tall (with some shelves added) from that

we could grow 20 flats in an area of 2’W x 4’L x6’H. The micro

greens take 5 - 14 days to grow, and we would have no less

than 10 flats a week ready for harvest. We located an unused

“the Farm to Table movement has seen

exponential growth”

FARM TO TABLE I GARDEN CULTURE

Germinating Russian red kale

Gaby Bronstein and Sous-chef Devin Kellogg (left)

“very few, if any restaurants grow their own micro greens”

Page 84: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3
Page 85: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

85

“growing micro greens couldn’t

be easier!”

FARM TO TABLE I GARDEN CULTURE

Etoliation

space behind a door in the staff break room … PERFECT! This

was an empty space just a few steps away from the kitchen.

Less than one week later, the micro green garden was up and

running. To ensure the restaurant’s success, we started seeds at

my indoor garden shop, The Garden Spout. I prepared the soil

using a new technique I saw being used

in a micro green forum I follow. This

technique involves making what I call

“Soil Tacos.“ We cut out a long sheet

of paper towels. We place the beginning

of the towel in the flat, we then add soil

and finally we wrap the paper towels

back over the soil and tuck it in.

This Soil Taco method serves 2 main functions. Firstly, many

micro green seeds are quite small, and when planting such fine

seed they can fall into the cracks of the soil, burying them too

deep for good germination rates. Secondly, and this is even

more important and useful, is how clean the paper towel meth-

od is. Most micro greens can simply be plucked out of the paper

towel with the roots attached, and harvested free of soil, mak-

ing cleaning as simple as a quick rinse.

The seeds are sown directly on the paper towel, and are then

covered with a sheet of white plastic. This gives the seeds

the darkness they need, and protects them from drying out

since they are on the surface. Without this plastic sheet, the

seeds dry out very quickly unless they are misted multiple times

a day. The planted flats are then placed on a heating pad, and

left to do their thing with nothing more than a daily misting for

3 days needed.

Now it’s time for finishing off the crop. All the seeds have germi-

nated and started growing in that short span of time. Removing

the plastic, you find many seedlings are yellow colored due to

the lack of exposure to light. This green pigment deficiency is

called “etiolation.“ Within a few hours of exposure to light the

micro green seedlings green up nicely.

The last thing I do before delivering

these starts is to thoroughly water

them with Earth Tonic, an ocean

water concentrate with added bio-

dynamic preparations. Besides the

small amounts of compost in the soil

mix, the Earth Tonic is the only plant

food used. Ocean water has all the elements on earth in their

most natural form. When used properly these solutions help

grow even more nutrient dense crops, which translate into

stronger flavors as well.

From this point on, the restaurant staff only needs to make

sure the micro greens do not dry out. We set up a simple

system that allows them to water all the flats in less than 5

minutes. Making this process easy helps ensure that it is not

forgotten.

Within 2 days from this point, the Chef can harvest the micro

greens as needed. To serve patrons the most vibrant greens,

while at the same time ensuring little to no waste, harvesting

will take place as often as 3 - 4 times in a service.

In the following weeks I will be training the culinary gardener

at John Ash how to prepare the soil mix for the Soil Tacos,

and the planting procedures so they can become fully self-suffi-

cient… but growing micro greens couldn’t be easier! Anyone

can grow them. I would even go as far to say it’s the easiest

crop of all, and offers the highest possible nutritional value.

So get a Micro Green Garden growing for Macro results. 3

85 gardenculture.net

Red-Rambo radish seedling

Aragula in Soil-Taco

Page 86: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

86

S E C R E T T O B E T T E R TA S T I N G V E G E TA B L E S

Attention all home growers! Did you know there are

ways to make your vegetables taste better than they

already do? What if I was to tell you this way only in-

volves some rapidly boiled water, a couple of bowls,

a strainer and about the same amount of time it will

take you to read this article? It sounds crazy, I know,

but bear with me for your own benefit.

“These (cooking) methods preserve nutrients, provide great flavor, a nice crunch and does not cook it to baby food hell. ”

What if I told you these methods would preserve nutrients,

provide great flavor, a nice crunch and won’t involve any ge-

netic “enhancements?” Oh what is this wondrous witchcraft

I’m spouting, you may ask? It’s called blanching and steaming. It

may sound familiar. It may sound like it’s a myth. But it is real.

So what is the difference between blanching and steaming?

How can I do this myself without a trained chef? Well that’s

where I come in.

Blanching is a process of flash cooking and cooling. You take a

pot of rapidly boiling water and add a bit of salt. Put your fresh

veggies in (cutting off stems and cleaning beforehand). Cook

for around two to no more than five minutes (depending on

the veggie toughness factor; broccoli takes longer than green

beans, etc.), and then immediately transfer to an ice water

bath for about thirty seconds. That’s it! So why should you do

this few minutes of labor?

I recently visited a small, family owned dining establishment

in Lancaster, CA. While I was there I spoke to head chef and

manager of Barones on the Blvd, Thomas Powers. According

to chef Powers, blanching is reserved for vegetables with a

cell structure that will break down when overcooked. Veg-

gies like broccoli, cauliflower and squashes he says. When

you overcook these types of veggies, they turn to mush in a

pale shade of what was. But, chef Powers says, if you blanch,

you preserve the crunchy bite, the lush color and best of all,

the nutrients. Blanching does quick cook the fresh veggie, but

does not cook it to baby food hell.

But wait! Don’t leave your love seat just yet. All this talk about

blanching may have made you jump up and go on a food ad-

venture. Yet we haven’t even touched the other way to make

crunchy, nutrient rich veggies, steaming.

Page 87: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

87 87

TASTY VEGETABLES I GARDEN CULTURE

gardenculture.net

Instead of asking a professional chef for steaming advice, I

went to my local resident expert and parent, Lucy Burk. My

mother has been cooking veggies and local foods for years.

She has worked in various restaurants as well as feeding my

well for eighteen years of my life. I don’t know a better cook.

When I asked her about what steaming is, she stated, “Steam-

ing is a method of using high heat (to boil water) to steam the

vegetables without making them wilt.”

Just like blanching, this method preserves flavor and nutri-

ents. This method is quicker, because you don’t need the

ice bath step. But, you may lose some color. Any vegetable can

be preserved this way. All you need to do is get a boiling pot

of water on your stove. Add a bit of salt for flavor. Once the

water is boiling, put your veggies in a good strainer and place

it on the top of the pot. The veggies should be ABOVE the

water, not soaked in it. Vegetables that are more dense may

take about four or five minutes to steam. Veggies that are less

dense could take around two or three minutes to cook. Again,

like blanching, this method preserves flavor and texture.

Now there are some differences between blanching and steam-

ing. Blanching can preserve the color more than steaming will,

but you may lose some nutrients since the vegetables are being

fully immersed in the boiling water. Steaming may cause some

loss of color, but will keep more of the nutritional benefit. Serv-

ing time wise, blanching is better if you’re planning on serving a

bit later in the day or the next day. Steaming, on the other hand,

may be better if you’re planning on serving your fresh vegetables

right after the steaming process.

When you look at it side by side, you can’t go wrong either

way. Blanching or steaming will get you great results as long

as you don’t cook the vegetables too long. Too much cooking,

with either method, will result in mushy lumps of lost nutri-

tion that you couldn’t pick up with a fork. Also, make sure you

clean and cut off all the non-edibles BEFORE you do either

method. So you have your home garden, try something new.

When you have that party, or friends come over for some din-

ner, or maybe you’re making some food for yourself and you

want some great healthy flavor, try one of these methods. Go

ahead. Get up and do it. 3

BY BRIAN BURK

STEAMING IS A METHOD OF USING HIGH HEAT... THE VEGGIES GO ABOVE THE WATER

“TOO MUCH COOKING WILL RESULT IN MUSHY LUMPS OF LOST NUTRITION”

Page 88: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3
Page 89: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

89

KORN I GARDEN CULTURE

gardenculture.net

The original plan proved to be a little over ambitious,

we needed to simplify. Once again, my buddy Nick and I

were off to Bakersfield to build a garden for Korn. We

completely tore down everything and started again from

scratch. We built a beautiful 12’ x 4’ 5 channel NFT garden.

Lit on one side by an OG reflector running a 1000W ‘blue’

bulb, and the other end has an Inda-Gro Induction Light

with “pontoons.”

Korn was touring when we were there so they didn’t get

to see the garden then, but when they got back they were

quick to call. They are loving the new design and can’t wait

to see it full of life.

Just reading Korn’s 2013 touring schedule will make you

tired. They just released their 11th studio album, The Par-

adigm Shift, and have been all over the world promoting

it. We were there working on the first garden when they

were recording it. At one point during the build Ray Luzzier

came down and gave me the drumsticks he used to record

that day. I took a picture of him and my kid’s stuffed animal.

Now they are back, and will be spending a lot more time in

the studio, and in their garden.

I am very pleased to say that the Hydro Nerds will be

maintaining the garden, which pretty much guarantees

its success.

Stay tuned as this garden is about to take off. 3

BY ERIC COULOMBE

KornIs

corn?still growing

Right now the band’s garden is growing kale, basil, and other yummy veggies. Unfortunately, the corn

crop didn’t really work out. Like so many indoor gardeners Korn had to learn their gardening lessons

the hard way. They killed every plant in their first grow. Instead of throwing in the towel, total failure

seemed to increase their resolve to make it work.

Page 90: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

90 90

(A.K.A. SEWAGE SLUDGE)

BIOSOLIDS

“BIOSOLID” IS A MISLEADING PUBLIC RELATIONS TERM”

“A PROBLEM BY-PRODUCT OF SEWAGE TREATMENT...”

Page 91: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

91 gardenculture.net

BIO-SOLIDS I GARDEN CULTUREBY GRUBBYCUP

Gardeners and health conscious consumers may be shocked to learn that the organic sounding

ingredient “biosolids” found in some potting and compost mixes is actually municipal sewage sludge.

and 1% domestic waste can still be considered “biosolids”

after treatment since it contains some domestic wastewa-

ter product.

The details of treatment vary, but they generally start with

using a bar screen to remove large objects such as shopping

carts that could damage the processing equipment. The

waste is then allowed to settle. The portion that

sinks to the bottom is the sewage sludge, and

the portion that floats is known as scum.

The water between the two layers is

then removed, filtered and treated,

and released into rivers or oceans.

The scum from the top is some-

times collected and reintroduced to

the collected sewage sludge from the

bottom. Most studies on sewage treat-

ment effectiveness have centered around

the removed wastewater effluent layer, and

not the leftover sewage sludge.

Treatment to convert the sewage sludge into “Class A

biosolids” can be accomplished by aerobic composting, an-

erobic composting, heat drying, or pasteurization. These

methods reduce the amount of active live pathogens pres-

ent in the material. Class B biosolids have less stringent re-

quirements, and use restrictions. It can only be applied to

areas where public access is “limited”, such as commercial

food crop production. Some studies suggest that at least

some of the inactive pathogens in the sludge may reactivate

when exposed to wet conditions (such as watering of plants

treated with sludge).

Biosolids may be spread on agricultural fields, which they

consider as “surface disposal sites”. Cattle and other ani-

mals meant for human consumption are allowed to graze

on surface disposal sites as long as there is documentation

that steps are taken to “ensure protection of public health

“Biosolid” is a misleading public relations term for semi-

treated municipal sewage sludge. The sludge is sometimes

sold or given to consumers and farms for use as a free or

low-cost fertilizer. It is also used in some low grade pot-

ting and compost mixes. While biosolids do contain about

4% nitrogen, and several micronutrients, they also contain

elevated levels of harmful bacteria, heavy metals, medical

waste, and other hazardous materials. An esti-

mated 3-5 million dry tons of biosolids fertil-

izer is in use annually on farms, in land-

scapes, and by unwitting homeowners.

Biosolids are a problem by-product

of sewage treatment. Since the ban

on ocean dumping went into effect,

waste management companies have

increased efforts to sneak more and

more of the toxic substance into the con-

sumer food chain. Waste products enter the

sewage system through toilets, sewers, industrial

and medical drains, and then collected at sewage facilities.

Untreated sewage contains everything dumped into the

sewer, not only human waste products, but anything else

that gets poured down a drain. Considered to be a danger-

ous biohazard, untreated sewage generally contains human

pathogens, and at least some form of medical waste. It can

also be a chemical hazard depending on the amount of drain

cleaners, solvents, heavy metals, radioactive materials, or

other potentially toxic chemicals present.

The EPA defines sewage sludge as a solid, semi-solid, or liq-

uid residue generated from processing domestic sewage in

a treatment works. “Sewage sludge includes scum or solids

removed in primary, secondary, or advanced wastewater

treatment processes and any material derived from sewage

sludge” (The Standards for the Use or Disposal of Sewage

Sludge– Part 503 - US Environmental Protection Agency). It

also mentions that material containing 99% industrial waste

“CLASS B BIOSOLIDS MAY BE APPLIED TO FOOD CROPS OR GRAZING LAND”

“CONTAIN ELEVATED LEVELS OF HARMFUL

BACTERIA, HEAVY METALS, MEDICAL

WASTE, AND OTHER HAZARDOUS MATERIALS.”

Page 92: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

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Page 93: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

93 gardenculture.net

BIO-SOLIDS I GARDEN CULTURE

“USED AS A FREE OR LOW-COST

FERTILIZER”

and the environment from any reasonably anticipated ad-

verse effects of certain pollutants that can be present in

biosolids.”(also from The Standards for the Use or Disposal

of Sewage Sludge– Part 503 - US Environmental Protection

Agency). Class B biosolids may be applied to food crops or

grazing land as long as the edible portions do not touch the

surface of the soil, and harvest is at least 30 days after the

last application. If the edible portions come in contact with

the soil, the last application must have been over 14 months

before harvest. Grazing animals cannot be allowed back on

the pasture for the first 30 days after application. People

without protective suits are also restricted from the site for

30 days on a farm, or 1 year for public

access (although these restrictions are

lower for the actual food produced in

such fields).

“EQ” biosolids show lower (but mea-

surable) levels of heavy metals and

pathogens, and are exempt from these restrictions. These

biosolids can be sold or given away in bulk, mixed with soil

amendments and sold to consumers, or bagged for direct

consumer use.

The United States Geological Survey (USGS) purchased

nine off the shelf samples of biosolids available to consumers

for study. They tested the samples for 87 different pollut-

ant chemicals selected for their ability to pass through cur-

rent treatments essentially intact. Out of the 87 chemicals

tested, 55 were present in at least one of the samples. Every

sample had 25 chemicals in common, with one sample hav-

ing measurable levels of 45. Some of the organic wastewa-

ter contaminants (OWCs) they all had in common include

an antimicrobial disinfectant, an antihistamine, an antiepilep-

tic drug, and steroids. These contaminants were found to

comprise up to 1,800 ppm of the biosolids tested. The study

concluded that “the results indicate that biosolids have high

concentrations of these emerging contaminants compared

to treated liquid wastewater effluent.” (Household Chemi-

cals and Drugs Found in Biosolids from Wastewater Treat-

ment Plants - United States Geological Survey). Another

study found elevated levels of these types of chemicals

found in earthworms taken from areas of repeated biosolid

use. (Environmental Science and Technology – Colorado

State University of Pueblo, USGS)

Although the information on long-term effects of the use

of biosolids is inconclusive at this time, a USGS study of

long-term intensive land disposal of treated sewage in Cape

Cod has shown the damage caused to a nearby aquifer will

take at least decades to return to

pre-contamination conditions. (Toxic

Substances Hydrology Program -

United States Geological Survey).

We don’t have to spread sewage

sludge on our food crops and home

gardens; alternative uses include using it as a fuel source

for bioreactors, or used to help restore landscapes already

damaged from mining and landfills.

The intentional misrepresentation of the product to the

consumer is a cause for concern. Amendment products

that contain biosolids may or may not be labeled clearly as

such, and the meaning of the organic sounding word “bio-

solid” is not commonly understood by the public. Foods

grown under conditions where they are exposed to bio-

solids, even under direct contact, are not required to bear

any indication to allow the consumer to make an informed

choice in making purchasing selections.

When in doubt as to whether a product contains biosolids,

contact the manufacturer. If they do not use sewage sludge

in their products, they will likely be quick to say so. If they do

use biosolids, be prepared for an obtuse or confusing answer

as they try to cover up the reality of their ingredients. 3

“99% INDUSTRIAL WASTE AND 1% DOMESTIC WASTE CAN STILL BE

CONSIDERED “BIOSOLIDS””

Page 94: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

94

Looking at Air

Hot air is just high energy air, and by removing it close to the

heat source, you can pull the energy out of the garden before

it transfers much of its heat to the surrounding air. To lower

the garden temperature to growing temperatures it is more

efficient to vent off the hottest air than it is to try to dilute

it with cold air.

Since lights are likely your largest source of waste heat in the

garden, they are one of the biggest climate concerns. When-

ever possible, keep the ballast outside of the garden proper.

As part of their functioning, ballasts generate a fair amount

of waste heat, and any heat you can avoid putting into the

garden is heat you don’t have to worry about dealing with.

Tents in particular should have the ballasts located outside of

the garden environment.

Using sealed and vented hoods are a way to remove the

waste heat from bulbs quickly and efficiently. A fan and duct-

ing brings cooler outside air to the hood, then across the

bulb, where it captures heat, before being sent out of the

garden. Ideally this creates a closed path for outside air to

pass through the garden and return without mixing with the

In a natural setting such as a meadow; an ocean of air washes

over and though the plant life. Waves of air push away excess

humidity and oxygen, and they carry carbon dioxide in. When

a plant is removed from its native habitat, the natural sources

of light, rain, and wind are lost, and the gardener becomes

responsible for meeting the environmental needs of the plant.

Indoor gardeners take their plants away from the wind, and

fans or other environmental measures are used to replace it.

Plants grown in still air tend to have more problems with

molds, insects, and disease. Moving air from fans helps to

keep moisture from collecting and encouraging mold spore

growth. Fans can also help remove excess heat, to help de-

fend against heat loving spider mites.

Indoor gardens tend to have more trouble with heat than

cold. This makes sense if you consider you are adding energy

into a closed room in the form of electricity, which converts

into light and heat by the lighting fixtures. The plants absorb

and use some of that energy, but the rest can cause heat

buildup if the amount of heat generated by the equipment

is higher than the amount of heat removed from the room.

(Climate Techniques) “PLANTS GROWN

IN STILL AIR TEND TO

HAVE MORE PROBLEMS”

When all of the beverage from a drinking cup has

been imbibed, it is considered to be “empty”, and

admittedly that definition tends to work as far as

drinking needs go in gardening. It is sometimes

helpful to remember that it is not empty at all, but

rather full to the brim with air.

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95 95

as much light energy than one at 2’. Ideally, you want the tops

of the plants in the “sweet spot” where they are close enough

to the light to grow well, without being so close to the light

that the heat damages them.

Fortunately, with a couple reasonably priced meters, it is easy

to find exactly how far away the “sweet spot” for plant growth

is. The two devices you need are a light meter ($20-$100) and

a quick acting digital indoor thermometer ($10-S20).

Put the temperature sensor next to the light sensor, and hold

them below the light. Ideal temperatures are between 70-

85ºF so raise and lower the sensors until you find the place

where it reads 80ºF, and check to make sure the light levels

are at least 25,000 lux (in general, more is better). That is as

close to the light as the tops of your plants should get. Then

lower the meter until the light level drops to 20,000 lux or

so, that is about the bottom of the “sweet spot” where un-

blocked light is still strong enough that it’s useful.

By using this pair of meters, it becomes very clear that hav-

ing the light cool enough placed reasonably close to the tops

of the plants that has a strong benefit in the amount of light

available to the plants. Bright sunlight is about 100,000 lux

and free, which is why even partial natural lighting can often

be cost-effective.

Aside from transporting excess heat out of the garden, air

circulation is also important for evaporation and available car-

bon dioxide (CO2).

Evaporation in a garden is important to remove stray droplets

of moisture that may collect. This moisture, if left unchecked,

can encourage unwanted mold and bacterial growth. Mold

does not grow as well in low humidity, so one of the first

steps to treat a mold issue in an indoor garden is to increase

air circulation (although you must do so with care and not to

spread the pathogen in the process).

Excessive evaporation however, indicates low humidity, which

can attract dreaded pests. Too low of a humidity level can

CLIMATE TECHNIQUES I GARDEN CULTURE

gardenculture.net

BY GRUBBYCUP

air in the garden room itself. The total amount of air moved

is small, and concentrated around the heat source, so you’ve

dealt with much of the heat before it spreads.

When designing ducting layouts, keep in mind that wide turns

are better than sharp turns, and that unwanted hot air rises.

If a passive air vent is required to replace vented air (depend-

ing on how airtight the garden is), the incoming air needs to

be taken from cooler air from the outside of the garden and

located opposite to the exhaust vent.

To calculate how many cubic feet per minute of ventilation

you need, start with calculating the size of the garden in cubic

feet. You do this by multiplying the height, length, and width

of the room. A 8’x10’x10’ room would make for 800 cubic

feet of garden space. A single 800 cfm fan would move the

room’s area air mass every minute, and a 400 cfm fan would

do the same every two minutes. Two 400 cfm fans would

again clear the air once a minute, and so on. Read the listed

cfm on the box, but keep in mind that fans are usually rated

while under a very low load, so any ducting can reduce cfm

dramatically.

Since the lights are usually the largest source of waste heat

in the garden, when you’ve dealt with that, then controlling

the temperatures in the rest of the garden usually becomes

a lot simpler. If hot air is collecting in a particular area of the

room, try to vent it off. Although more expensive initially,

using solar-powered fans to give an extra boost during the

hottest part of the day without adding to the electric bill. If

the garden still needs more cooling, bring in cooler outside

air or air-conditioned cold air.

One of the reasons that the temperature around the lights is

so important, is that the cooler the lights are, the closer you

can get them to the plants. Since light is broadcast across an

area; a plant at 1’ away from the light source receives 4 times

“THE “EMPTY” SPACE AROUND US ISN’T ALL THAT EMPTY. ATMOSPHERIC GASES LIKE

OXYGEN, CARBON DIOXIDE, AND WATER VAPOR ARE ALL

TRANSPARENT TO OUR EYES”

Page 96: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

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Page 97: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

97

CLIMATE TECHNIQUES I GARDEN CULTURE

“WAVES OF AIR PUSH AWAY EXCESS HUMIDITY AND OXYGEN, AND THEY CARRY CARBON DIOXIDE IN”

biological reaction, or slowly released from pressurized tanks.

My preference is for the gardener, who is as much a part of

the system as anything else, to spend time in the garden, and

contribute their breath to the system. If you think that your

garden isn’t getting enough CO2, consider bringing a friend

in and do some heavy breathing together. Human beings are

fairly large animals, and generate quite a bit of carbon dioxide

when exercising, just make sure there is enough fresh air to

be healthy for the humans involved.

The “empty” space around us isn’t all that empty. Atmospher-

ic gases like oxygen, carbon dioxide, and water vapor are all

transparent to our eyes, and therefore easy to forget, but

these gases in the proper amounts are important for proper

plant health and growth. We live in an ocean of air, complete

with currents, flow, and volume. By giving plants the fresh

air and airflow they need, not only will the plants be happier,

but it can help keep molds and moisture loving fungus gnats

at bay. 3

lead to spider mites and too high leads to molds. If the garden

is kept between these two extremes, things tend to go a lot

smoother. If a problem with one or the other arises, change

the environment to disfavor the pathogen. Mist spider-mites

regularly, and let areas of mold outbreaks dry out a bit more

than usual.

Photosynthesis in plants requires light and heat energy, water

and carbon dioxide (CO2). Chlorophyll collects light in leaves.

Plants use part of this energy to split water molecules into

free oxygen gas (O2), and hydrogen (H). The hydrogen is then

bonded with carbon dioxide (CO2) to form the sugars the

plant can use to grow. If light and water are already present

in sufficient quantities, then you can increase the heat slightly

as carbon dioxide levels will raise. Without air movement this

process can result in the plants sitting in a cloud of oxygen and

not receiving enough carbon dioxide.

CO2 is naturally occurring in fresh air, but it is also sometimes

added to the garden environment artificially. In the garden,

CO2 is usually generated by chemical reaction, combustion,

Page 98: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

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Page 99: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3

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Page 100: Garden Culture Magazine: US 3