Guinea Pig Care Guide-- Editted 2011

8/7/2019 Guinea Pig Care Guide-- Editted 2011

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Cavy Galore Guinea GuideA Simple guide to help you provide the best life for your furry friend

Brought to you by: Cavy Galorewww.cavygalore.proboards.com

Index

The Basics of Guinea Pig Care------------------------------------------------------------Pg. 2-10

Diet..............Pg. 2-5

Housing.........Pg. 5-7

Quarantine.....Pg. 7-8

Health...........Pg. 8-9

Handling........Pg. 9-10

Harmful Products-------------------------------------------------------------------------Pg. 10-12

Guinea Pig FAQs-------------------------------------------------------------------------Pg. 13-14

Why Adopt?----------------------------------------------------------------------------Pg. 14-18

Health 101-------------------------------------------------------------------------------Pg. 18-20

Living Indoors---------------------------------------------------------------------------Pg. 20-21


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The Basics of Guinea Pig Care

Written By: Babys Mom of Cavy Galore

Some basic things that guinea pigs need are very important. These basic needs are

what keep all guinea pigs happy and healthy. Such needs are easy to fulfill and provide a

comfortable life for your guinea pig.

Basic needs include:

- Your guinea pigs' diet--A well balanced diet is made up of fourparts.

- A comfortable home for your friend

- Healthy living

- General Happiness

Lets go a bit more in depth, shall we?

Diet

As previously mentioned, a guinea pigs diet consists of four vital parts and we will be

touching upon each one.

Pellets

o To feed adult guinea pigs, you

should give them a hay-based

pellet like "Oxbow's Cavy Cuisine,

for example. Please keep in mind

that adult guinea pigs are

considered any pig one year of age

or greater.

o For young guinea pigs that are

under 1 year old, and for pregnant

pigs as well, a pellet that has both

alfalfa and hay should be provided.

For example, "Oxbow's Cavy

Performance" is highly recommended.

o

Amount: Every pig is different, but most eat about 1/8 cup of pelletsper pig/per day.

Buying pellets in small quantities is a good idea because after a

limited time the strength of the vitamin C is no longer effective.

Your pellets are now no longer useful once this takes place.


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o Remember that guinea pigs, much like humans, cannot produce their

own vitamin C. Because of this, guinea pigs need to be supplied with a

vitamin C enriched pellet.

Please remember: Guinea Pigs should not eat nuts, colored bits or seeds. They

can easily choke on them. Therefore, your pellet food shouldnotcontain any nuts, seeds,

colored bits, corn products, or animal products.

Hay

o Grass hay is best for adult guinea pigs.

Some examples are: Timothy hay,

Orchard Grass and Blue Grass.

o Alfalfa hay mixed with grass hay is

better for young or pregnant guinea

pigs. Do not feed to a pig older than 1

year old, as it can cause bladder or

kidney stones as well as othercomplications due to the increase in

calcium.

o Remember that all guinea pigs,

regardless of age, need to be supplied

with grass hay.

o A constant supply of hay is required and helps to prevent teeth over

growth due to repetitive chewing.

Part of your guinea pigs' diet should also be fruits, vegetables, and other forages.Canned, frozen, and cooked vegetables are not the best source of vitamins, and nutrients.

They contain too much salt, sugar, and preservatives. The best source for proper nutrition is

fresh, raw vegetables.

Vegetables

o Fresh, raw vegetables are always best. Look for vegetables such as:

Leafy Greens (a stable in many pigs dietsCan be fed daily)

Romaine

Butterhead

Green Leaf

Red Leaf Swiss Chard

AVOID Iceberg lettuce! It is far too moist and contains

no nutritional value.

Herbs

CilantroCan be fed daily


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ParsleyFed occasional due to calcium content

DillFed occasionally

Occasional foods

Yellow bell peppers ( Yellow bell peppers, unlike red andgreen which can also be fed, have a higher sugar

content)

Carrots (One baby carrot per day is sufficient)

Grape (should be fed only occasionally due to sugar

content)

Blueberries

Kale (feed sparinglycan cause intestinal upset)

Cherry tomatoes (High acid content can cause mouth

sores)

Apple (high sugar contentRemove core and seeds.

Core is poisonous!)

Pears (High sugar contentremove core/seeds)

Oranges (Can cause mouth sores due to acid content)

Yams (NEVER feed potatoes such as Idahoeyes of

Idaho and similar potatoes are poisonous!)

Cucumber (can cause runny stool from excess moisture)

Guinea pig feeding Donts

Please do not give your guinea pig any treats that were

bought from a pet store. They are marketed for guinea

pigs, but they are not a good source of healthy foods. Guinea pigs do not eat milk products such as, milk, or

eggs. They also do not eat animal products such as,

hamburger, or steak. They eat strictly plants.

Do not use mineral wheels/ salt licks. Guinea pigs have

no need for these extra minerals.

Do not mix anything into a guinea pigs water. This can

alter the waters taste and prevent the pig from drinking

in general.

To maintain a healthy diet, guinea pigs should eat at least 1 cup of fresh, raw

vegetables per day/per pig. It would also be a good idea to divide this amount into 2 or 3

smaller meals, instead of one large meal. For a complete list of fruits, vegetables, and other

forages, go to www.guineapigcages.comand look under the diet, and nutrition section or

www.guinealynx.com/diet.html


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Water

o Some guinea pigs use a water

bottle to drink from, while others

use a water bowl, depending on

what you and your pigs like best.

o All guinea pigs need fresh water day

and night. Changing their water

every day means that your pig will

always have fresh water to drink.

o Never put vitamin C supplements,

or medicine in your guinea pigs

water. Your guinea pig may not get

the correct dosage. It may also distaste the water and, in turn, cause

your pig to stop drinking the water. Always give medicine and vitamin

C supplements through a small syringe.

Housing

There are only three simple parts to providing your guinea pig with a comfortable

home to reside in. We will discuss these components below.

Cubes and Coroplast Cages

o Cubes and Coroplast cages offer your guinea pig lots of space to run

around. It is always best to have their cage inside where they are safe.Having their cage outside poses many dangers to your guinea pig. Somedangers are:

Guinea pigs need a consistent temperature between 70-80F

because they cannot handle extreme weather conditions. The rapidchange in weather conditions can cause an outside dwelling pig to

become very ill.

Other animals such as dogs, cats, or foxes could possibly find away to get into your pig's outdoor cage. Obviously, this would bevery harmful for your pig.

Guinea pigs get sick very fast. If you have them with you insideyour house, you will notice a sick guinea pig far faster than you


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would with an outdoor pig. This speedy observation could mean thedifference between life and death for your furry friend.

Outdoor guinea pigs tend to receive less attention. As the old

saying goes, out of sight; out of mind.o Never house a guinea pig with any other species of animal, including

rabbits. Guinea pigs can easily catch deadly diseases carried by rabbits

and their strength alone is enough to kill a pig with one swift kick.o Components of a Cubes and Coroplast Cage are:

Coroplast, or corrugated plastic which can often be bought at signshops, provides for a large, sturdy, and easy to clean cage base.

Many sign shops will be happy to accommodate you and evenorder special colors of corrugated plastic.

Storage cubes make the walls of the cage and can be customized

to create any size and shape of cage. They also come in variouscolors and can be purchased online atwww.walmart.com or instores at Target.

When purchasing storage cube grids, make sure you are

purchasing grids that have 9 inner cubes by 9 inner cubes.Any larger size inner cube can result in your guinea

pig getting its head stuck in the opening. Please do notbe afraid to open the box and look!

Zip Ties/Cable ties are very handy and can be used to attach all ofthe grids together. They also can be used to reinforce cage wallsand provide for an even sturdier cage.

Packing Tape is used to construct the cage base as well as scissorsor an Exacto knife, a ruler and patience. Be sure to place the

packing tape on the outside of the base because some pigs do

enjoy chewing on it.

If you have a very small pig or a baby pig, baby proofing your cageis a must! This can be very easily done by zip tying two gridstogether to form smaller squares, using scrap cardboard or

coroplast to create high walls, or fastening fleece up the walls ofthe cage. For information on baby proofing, please visithttp://www.guineapigcages.com/photos/showgallery.php/cat/532

If you have other pets and would like to prevent your cage from

having an open top, wire shelving is a great solution. Forinformation about cage safety, please visit:http://www.guineapigcages.com/photos/showgallery.php/cat/508

For alternate cage ideas, additional information and cage sizerecommendations, please visitwww.guineapigcages.com.

Bedding

o Carefresh or Critter Care Recycled paper bedding

Can be somewhat doesnt and is notrecommended for pigs with allergies.

Somewhat expensive

Be sure to use 1-2 inches on the bottom of

your cage

o Kiln Dried Aspen or Kiln Dried Pine Easily available

Low cost


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Not for allergy sufferers

Be sure to use 1-2 inches on the bottom of

your cage

Always buy kiln driedo Towels and Fleece

With a layer of towels, and a layer of fleece

over top, this makes a soft, re-usable beddingthat guinea pigs love.

Wash the fleece 3 times (without any kind offabric softener) before use.

Economical Reusable/ easy to clean

o Do not use!

Sawdust (can cause upper respiratory infections/ choking hazard) Cat litter ( can cause upper respiratory infections/ dusty/ choking

hazard)

Cedar or raw pine shavings (These give a strong odor that can cause

guinea pigs to have respiratory problems.)

Maintenanceo Daily spot clean--vacuum, or sweep the poop

-change heavily soiled areas.

Heavy duty hand vacuums work well for this

job. Replace any leftover food

Refill water and food if needed

o Weekly Clean--A complete clean should be done once,

or twice a week. Strip everything in the cage. Washbottom of cage and bowls with a solution of vinegarand water.

o For more information, please visit:www.guinealynx.com

Quarantine

It is best to quarantine any new guinea pig that is brought to your home as well as

any guinea pig that becomes sick. Illnesses and parasites like to transfer themselves from

one pig to another. By keeping your guinea pig separate from any other, means that youare protecting all of your guinea pigs. This is not required when rescued from a reputable

shelter that already quarantines its guinea pigs.

How to Quarantineo Keep the new or sick pig in its own cage (by itself) in its own room, with

the door closed.

o Wash hands and arms well between handling any other guinea pigs


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o Change shirt if you were holding the sick/new guinea pig

o This process takes about 3 weeks to properly quarantine your guinea pig.

o In the meantime, you should have your new or sick pig examined by a

qualified vet.

Health

Like any animal, large or small, guinea pigs need to be seen by a qualified

veterinarian if they become ill or show signs of illness. When looking for a veterinarian,please keep in mind that guinea pigs are considered exotic animals and need to be seen bya qualified, certified small animal/exotic veterinarian.

Visiting the Veto Have your guinea pig weighed

An adult guinea pig should weigh roughly between 2.5-3.5 lbs

Weighing is often performed by the veterinary technician uponentering the exam room

o The examination Typically, the veterinarian will ask you what the nature of your visit

is, assuming you are not bring your pet for an annual checkup. Once the doctor has heard what you have to say, he/she will use a

stethoscope and listen closely to the heart as well as the lungs to

rule out any respiratory conditions.

Next, the doctor will exam the guinea pigs entire body and feel forany lumps or abnormalities.

An otoscope will be used to exam the ears, eyes, and nose.

Some veterinarians will take a skin scraping to test for mites orother types of skin infection, but we have found that skin scrapingsare often inconclusive with barrowing insects.

If you suspect your pig has mites, do not be afraid to askfor a medication to use as treatment. Revolution in puppyand kitten formula is a monthly, pre-dosed application that

does a very affective job, as well as Ivermectin and

Advantage. If your veterinarian does find something wrong, he/she will explain

treatment with you and often prescribe medication.

Please be aware that not all medications are safe for use in

guinea pigs. For a complete guide of safe medications,please visit: http://www.guinealynx.info/antibiotics.html

If your veterinarian does provide you with a safe antibiotic,please ask for a probiotic as well. Probiotics are used to

keep the healthy gut flora in the stomach and are essential

to herbivores.o If you have a healthy cavy, you can take half a piece

of cecal pellet, dissolve in water, and administer tothe ill cavy.

o If you do not have any other guinea pig, acidophilusfound in drugstores can be used.

o Avoid using yogurt or any kind of diary product as aprobiotic!


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Weigh Weekly!

o It is a good idea to weigh your guinea pig once a

week. Becoming sick can affect a guinea pigsweight. So by weighing your guinea pig once aweek, you will notice fluctuations in their weight

right away, which could be early signs ofillnesses.

o When your guinea pig does get sick, it is also agood idea to weigh DAILY, just to make sure that

they are still eating.o If your guinea pigs weigh fluctuates more than 2

ounces, please visit a veterinarian as soon as

possible. A five-pound kitchen scale is one of the

best methods for weighing your guineapig. Either digital or manual will work

well; however, some Cavy Galoremembers feel digital scales are more

accurate.

Grooming

o Nails Nails need to be clipped roughly once a month. You can either do

this yourself or find a local groomer, which ever you prefer. Some

owners use human nail clippers while others use small animal or

cat clippers. Be sure to have styptic powder or flour on hand in case the quick,

a small vein running through the nail, is clipped.

o Hair Daily brushing will help reduce the amount of loose hair, so your

pig may not shed as much. Longhaired guinea pigs may need more

brushing.

Some Cavy Galore members find that brushing with a soft bristlebrush or fine toothed comb works well. Also, a tooth brush canhelp brush out any tricky sections.

o Bathing Guinea pigs hardly ever need baths. However, when the time

comes to give him/her a bath, the best shampoo to use is either

Bunny Bath shampoo, kitten shampoo, or small animal shampoo.

WARNING: Only wash a guinea pig when absolutely needed--overwashing results in dry, flakey skin.

Do notbath a guinea pig that is currently being treated for mitesor other parasites. Not only will the medication for treatment be

rendered ineffective, but the bath itself can exacerbate miteinfestations and cause severe pain.


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Handling

Guinea pigs get easily scared. Being picked up and put down can be very stressful

for them. They will squirm, kick, scratch, or maybe bite. There are two ways that are less

stressful for moving guinea pigs around. Please be aware that guinea pigs are pray animals

and, by instinct, tend to run from your hand until they become

acquainted.

Methodso Cuddle Sacks, or an empty pillowcase if you do not

own a Cuddle Sack, are great for holding your

guinea pig and make them feel far more

comfortable. Put your cuddle sack in the cage, and

encourage your guinea pig to go inside the

cuddle sack. Gently lift cuddle sack, with pig inside, out

of the cage.

o Gentle Handling Using 2 hands gently lift your pig out of the cage

Making sure that one hand is around its body,

his front paw is between your first two fingers.Your other hand supports his bottom.

Hold him against your body firmly, but not

tightly.

Floor Time

Every guinea pig needs daily exercise. Evenif you have your pig in a huge cage, he/she stillneeds to get out and explore new surroundings. If

you are using a smooth floor, such as ceramic tile,

it is recommended that you put towels or fleecedown, since guinea pigs slip easily on smooth

surfaces. Floor time can be easily set up usingextra grids from your Cubes and Coroplast cage.

While your guinea pig is enjoying floor time,please be sure to provide food, water and hay as

well.


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Harmful Products

Written by Amy of Cavy Galore

Even though an item is marketed for guinea pigs, this does NOT mean they are

actually suitable for a guinea pig to use. The following is a list of objects that should be

avoided:

1. The exercise ball- Guinea pigs have fairly ridged spines that cannot bend the way a

hamster or ferret spine can. Because of this, exercise balls are extremely harmful

and can cause severe spinal injury. Also, since guinea pigs have short appendages

and are fragile, bones can break easily. Exercise balls should never be used!

2. Large wheels- These present the same hazard as an exercise ball. Anything round

causes the pig's spine to curve and since the spine is so ridged this is very harmful.

These should not be used! A great alternative is giving your pig a daily allotment of

floor time. Find a piggy-proof area and allow your pig to wander. Make sure cords

are nowhere around and that the space is free of areas a pig could get trapped in.

3. Harnesses- In my opinion, this is a dumb idea for any small animal. Although they

market harnesses for guinea pigs, hamsters and ferrets, I dont see much of a point

to using one. For instance, using a harness on a hamster can crush its fragile lungs.

Once again, since guinea pigs have stiff spines, a harness forces the spine in an

unnatural position, which can cause serious injury.

4. Cat toys with jingle bells- Do not leave these in a cage for your little one. If they

were to break, the bells could fall out and pose a severe choking hazard. If your

piggy enjoys playing with something that jingles, look for small ferret tennis balls

that have bells inside. The rubber from the tennis ball is thick so the bell cannot get

out.

5. Snack Shak toys- The main components in Snack Shak tunnels are not suitable for

guinea pigs. Snack Shaks contain honey, nuts, sawdust, and many other undesirable

components. If your piggy has the urge to chew, try a wooden, untreated hidey

house, untreated wooden nibble sticks, or chewable blocks.

6. Glass sipper tube bottles- Never buy a water bottle with a glass sipper tube for

any small animal. If the animal would chew on the glass, it could break and cause

various injuries such as wounds, eye problems, or even choking.

7. Hay Balls/Managers- Hay balls are dangerous because they can puncture a guinea

pigs eye or even worse! Some owners have reported that their guinea pigs have


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gotten their heads stuck in the small openings. Hay managers are also dangerous.

One owner has even reported that her guinea pig died after getting trapped in the

manager. Please see: http://www.guinealynx.inf...ums/viewtopic.php?t=49758

8. Plastic tubes- This should be obvious, but I will say it never the less. Do not use

small plastic tubes similar to hamster tubes even if they are marketed for guinea

pigs. Most likely, they are far too small and a pig could get stuck. A better alternative

is a Quaker oats container with a slit cut down the middle. If your piggy is too large

for it, the slit will provide an easy way to remove the piggy. In addition, large PVC

pipe can be used as tubes.

9. Any type of plastic cage liner- Plastic cage liners can be dangerous for the same

reason a plastic bag is dangerous for a baby--possible suffocation.

10. Fluffy Cotton-like material- This junk is often found inside a cardboard tube

called a Chube. The Chube itself is safe to use but remove the fluffy material

because it can pose a choking hazard.

11. Guinea Pig Diapers- Yes, someone actually made diapers that are guinea pig sized.

If you have any common sense, you know this is a silly idea and if you think it isnt

then you shouldnt own a guinea pig!

12. Salt Licks- There is absolutely no reason to have these. If your piggy gets a daily

supply of fresh veggies then it is getting all the minerals it needs. Remember,

salt=high cholesterol--even for pigs.

13. Mixed food- Mixed food that contains nuts, seeds or colored pieces shouldnt be

used for guinea pigs as they are fatty and can be choking hazards. Oxbow and

Kleenmama make the best guinea pig foods. Please note that Kleenmama can onlybe purchased over the internet: http://www.kmshayloft.com/pellets.html.

14. Clothing- Although guinea pig costumes/clothing are marketed, do you really think

your piggy cares if it has a pair of pants on or not? If you really feel the urge to put

your piggy in something, make sure the fabric is loose and breathable. Also, dont not

leave your piggy in its clothes unsupervised. Also, do not leave them in clothes for

over 15 minutes.

15. Pet Store Treats- Pet store treats are generally filled with sugar and other

unhealthy ingredients. The best treat to provide your pig is a fresh one! An

occasional slice of apple, pear or a piece of baby carrot will be greatly appreciated byyour piggy.

For more safety information, please check the links below:http://www.guinealynx.info/records/viewtopic.php?t=81

http://www.guinealynx.info/forums/viewtopic.php?t=50743http://www.guinealynx.info/forums/viewtopic.php?t=49758

http://www.guinealynx.info/forums/viewtopic.php?p=1477778


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Guinea Pig FAQs

Written by Guinea Pig Goddess of Cavy Galore

Having proper knowledge is the first step to being a great animal owner, regardlessof the size of the animal. Some owners often find themselves lost upon the arrival of their

new friend, and searching for answers in all the wrong places. Below are some commonly

asked questions involving guinea pigs.

1. Will my two males fight?

a. No, unless one is an adolescent (4 to 8 months), they should get along fine,

assuming a proper introduction has taken place. On occasion, there will betwo or more guinea pigs that cannot stand each other and must be separated

permanently, but usually there is a rectifiable reason that would cause such

behavior.

2. What's fleece?a. Fleece is a fabric used for bedding rather than litter. Fleece wicks the urine to

a second absorbent layer, which leaves dry. It is important to purchase theproper kind of fleece and prepare it accordingly. When purchasing, be sure to

buy thick, anti-pill fleece. When ready to use, wash the fleece three timeswithout fabric softener. This will allow the fabric fibers to break down and

wick urine from the surface.

3. What is a "C&C cage"?

a. C and C cage stands for Cubes and Coroplast, or corrugated plastic. A Cubesand Coroplast cage is the only recommended cage for guinea pigs due to is

large size. The cubes are made into any shape and the coroplast is cut to fitthe cubes, keeping litter, pigs, and fecal matter inside. For more information

on these cages, please review the Basic Care section.

4. Where can I get a guinea pig?

a. Although it may be tempting to purchase the first cute, fuzzy face you see,please seriously consider adopting your guinea pig from a local shelter, rescue

organization or private owner who cannot care for their guinea pig any longer.Pet stores and breeders often provide mis-sexed, pregnant, or even ill pigs.

For more information about adoption and pet store cruelty, please review theWhy Adopt section.

5. What are the guinea pig necessities?

a. The necessities of guinea pigs are hay, healthy vegetables, guinea pig foodswithout colored bits or seeds, water bottle with metal sipper, ceramic food

bowl, a C&C cage, and bedding. Huts are optional because some guinea pigs

are so skittish that they stay in their huts unless there is fresh food. In thatkind of scenario, it would be better forgo the use of a hut, unless you just

recently adopted the guinea pig. If you feel your house is loud or stressful,give your guinea pig somewhere to hide and distress.


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6. Can a male and a female live together?a. A male and female guinea pig can happily live together assuming that one of

them is sterilized, in other words neutered, or spayed. Many owners have

found great success in pairing a dominant, neutered male with a submissivefemale. Two intact guinea pigs of the opposite sex shouldneverbe housedtogether. Additionally, when pairing sterilized males and females, there

should always be more females than males. Males tend to fight for theaffection of a female, so a great amount of females than males will preventthis problem.

Why Adopt?

Written by Amy of Cavy Galore

Animal Cruelty: There is no debate

God loved the birds and invented trees. Man loved the birds and invented cages.

-Jacques Deval, Afin de vivre bel et bien

By definition, cruelty is referred to as a deliberate infliction of pain and suffering,

feelings of extreme heartlessness and the quality of being cruel and causing tension and

annoyance (Cruelty par 5, definitions 2-3). Although society frowns upon cruelty tohumans, often a blind eye is turned when cruelty to animals enters the scene. In 2008,nearly 100 cases of animal cruelty occurred in California alone. Some of these cases include

shooting, beating, stabbing and even strangulation (Yearly Animal Abuse Report par.3). In

figure 1, animal abuse in the state of Pennsylvania is shown and is absolutely astounding.

This graph also includes cases of beating, stabbing and shooting. Animal abuse occurs inmany ways, some of which are not even recognized, such as pet store abuse, mill abuse

and breeding abuse. It is a wonder that there is such a simple solution to end the animalabuse cycle, but it has yet to be put into practice.


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A safe haven. A future. A loving new family. These images are often associated with

pet stores such as PetSmart, PetCo and Petland. Unfortunately, these lovely scenes are not

reality but rather fanciful clouds that mask the truth. PetSmart is just one of the many chain

pet stores that does not provide proper care for the animals they purchase for re-sale. Why

is this? Do these animals not deserve proper health care, housing and food? Why should

they be forced to resort to cannibalism on their dead cage mates? Sadly, there are noreasonable answers for any of these questions. The only response that could possibly exist

is that pet stores do not see these creatures as living, breathing beings but rather as

disposable merchandise kept on hand for impulse buyers (Whats Wrong with PetSmart?

par.1-2). People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals, more commonly known as PETA,

performed an undercover investigation of one PetSmart facility in Manchester, Connecticut.

PETA decided to execute an investigation, after many years of assurance that the facilities

were up to par. Contrary to the guarantee that Pet Smart offered, conditions were horrific to

say the least. Roughly 100 small animals were left for dead in the stores back room seeking

no medical treatment despite Pet Smarts Banfield clinic being only seconds away (PetSmart

Store Investigation par.1).

As PETAs investigation continued, many of theinvestigators kept logs of shocking events that took place. A

bone-chilling entry was made on October 23, 2006 in oneinvestigators daily log. The entry stated:

On October 23, 2006, a hamster in cage 10 in the sick

room was found dead. This was one of the hamstersthat I took to the vet on October 20, 2006, due to her

having wet tail and crusty eyes. [The Pet Care

Manager] had brought her back to the sick roombefore the vet could see her and told me that she

did not need to see the vet. (PetSmart StoreInvestigation par.4)

The hamster in figure 2

is only one of the many

that died while in thecare of PetSmart. Other

animals, such as birds,fish, guinea pigs and rats, have all suffered similar

fates.

PetSmart is not the only store that can becrucified for the treatment of animals, Petland also

decided to join the train of animal abuse and neglect.Some feel that Petland is even worse than any other

chain pet store because they utilize breeders to obtaindogs that will be sold in stores. April 2000 is one of the


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most crucial times in Petland cruelty. NBCs Dateline did an exposition story on puppy mills,and they just so happened to visit a private-breeding facility that was used for Petland.

How bad could private breeding possibly be? The first facility contained roughly 500 dogs all

caged and supplied with maggot-infested food. Many were sick and even wounded. Figure3 shows one puppy mill back-breeding dog, a dog that is bred repeatedly without breaks,that was severely emaciated at its time of rescue. NBC also had the opportunity to speak

with a former Petland supplier who drove trucks for the store. The driver stated that he wasonce instructed by a Petland breeder to take a sick puppy and dispose of it in a trashburner. It is beneficial to remember, these breeders supply Petlands dogs, and with each

purchase of a dog from Petland, the purchaser is supporting the continuation of breeders

(Boycott Petland par.15-18). With every purchase, the never-ending breeding mill-petstore cycle, presented in figure 4, continues to manifest.

In addition toinsufficient care, Petlandbreeders do not even properly

house the animals they arebreeding. The United StatesDepartment of Agriculture,

USDA, states that if an

animals back is touching therear of the cage, it must haveat least six inches in front of

its nose. Sadly, these breedershave violated this law and donot even provide that smallamount of room required

(Violations of USDA

regulations by PetLandBreeders par.6-15). During

an investigation into a report

of poor animal conditions, oneof the USDA investigatorsreported:

July 30, 2004: "Several boxers were found with skin problems... Hair loss was noted

on female #594 and #580, tag gone off adult breeding male. One dog was observedscratching. A dog in an adjacent pen also appeared to be affected...No medical

records were available on these dogs. Outside the pen was noted a dead adult

female, covered with a feed sack... This dog appeared very thinAlso, a returnedboxer pup in broker area was observed with severe skin lesions of hair loss and

areas of inflammation especially over its head as well as having a yellow dischargearound both eyes. XX were instructed to take this pup to a veterinarian for

examination by COB the day of this inspectionMedical records must be kept ondogs with vet care issues. (Violations of USDA regulations by PetLand Breederspar.15)

Despite Petland being the worst of the three chain stores to be mentioned, PetCo is a


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close second. In San Diego, a civil case was brought against PetCo due to inappropriateanimal care, poor cage conditions, and untreated animals. Also, the suit claimed that price

scanners were overcharging items anywhere between the ranges of $0.03 to $0.00.

Thankfully, parts of California took action against PetCo and banned the sales of smallanimals due to the neglect that was seen in various PetCo stores (Animal Abuse CaseDetails par.3). Despite San Francisco, California taking action, nearly 27 other states still

experience various problems with pet care presented at PetCo stores. Spiders in bird cages,fish being removed from tanks and killed inhumanely so they could be fed to turtles, saltwater tanks being filled with fresh water which resulted in the death of fish, small animalsborn at the store and released outside, and worst of all, an employee was seen laughing

while sucking up a pair of Parakeets in a vacuum and still kept his job are just a fewexamples. Even though the San Diego lawsuit resulted in a $900,000 fine to PetCo,obviously they have learned nothing and continue this poor treatment at other facilities

(Animal Abuse Case Details par.20).So how can this problem be fixed? How can the prevention of pet stores from treating

animals so horribly take place? How can a never-ending cycle stop? The answers to thesequestions are simple. Those who would like to own a pet should adopt rather than purchase

one. There are many pets in shelters and rescues waiting to be taken into a loving home.Most come from people who bought these animals on impulse buys or found that they were

sick after the purchase and did not feel like supplying proper care. The animals in sheltersare not defective goods, they are living creatures waiting to enter into someones life andfinally be appreciated. By adopting from a shelter or rescue, there is no funding of petstores and no allowance for them to purchase more animals from breeders who do not

provide proper care. Many do not know that dogs and cats are not the only animals in

rescues. Petfinder.com, an online website listing 299,590 adoptable pets in 12,184 sheltersand rescues, lists dogs, cats, birds, guinea pigs, ferrets and even hamsters that are waitingfor loving homes (Petfinder.com Heading).

In conclusion, all must realize that animals do not have voices. They cannot speak up

and tell the world all of the horrible treatment they are receiving. They cannot ask for helpor tell others when they are sick or suffering. The public must be their voices and speak upfor those who cannot. Each person must take the initiative to inspect local pet stores on

every visit and report any unsightly conditions or ill animals. It is unrealistic to believe thatpet stores will one day be eradicated, but supplying knowledge and facts as well asinforming people about the cruelty presented by pet stores is one small step taken to

deteriorate their success.

Work Cited

"Animal Abuse Case Details." Pet-Abuse.com. 2001-2008. 22 October 2008

.

Cruelty. Dictionary.com. 2008. 2008 October 2008

.

"Boycott Petland." Petstorecruelty.org. 22 October 2008

.

Petfinder.com. 2008. Discovery Company. 22 October 2008 .


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"PetSmart Store Investigation." People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals. 2006-2007. 22

October 2008 .

" Violations of USDA regulations by Pet Land Breeders." Petstorecruelty.org 12 October

2008

< http://www.petstorecruelty.org/USDA%20Violations%20by%20Petland%20breeders.htm>.

"Whats Wrong with Pet Smart?" People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals. 22 October

2008 .

"Yearly Animal Abuse Report." Pet-Abuse.com. 2008. 22 October 2008 .

Health 101Written by Cierra of Cavy Galore

Knowing when your guinea pig is sick is the key to early treatment and prevention of

deadly illnesses. Here is a list of things to look for in a healthy guinea pig, and things to lookout for when suspicious of illness.

Eyes- Color- Cavies can have either dark, red, or ruby colored eyes. Dark eyesare mostly considered to be blue, brown, or black. If your pigs eyes are healthy,they will reflect red when light is cast upon them.

o

Look out for-Always be observant and watch for signs of crusty, watery,cloudy, receding, or protruding eyes. All of the previous symptoms arecause for alarm and could be signs of illnesses such as an upperrespiratory infection, abscess, injury, dental problem, dehydration,

diabetes or cataracts. If you notice any of these eye conditions occurring,please contact your veterinarian immediately.

Teeth- Guinea pigs have 20 pairs of teeth, including a pair of upper and lower

incisors, a pair of upper and lower premolars and three pairs of upper and lowermolars. However, guineas do not have canine teeth like other mammals. Guinea

pig teeth are open-rooted and grow constantly. In a healthy guinea pig, the

biting, chewing and grinding of food, especially hays, grasses, and abrasivefoods, will normally keep the teeth at the proper length -- a length that varies

somewhat from one guinea pig to another. In other words, they need constanthay to ensure healthy teeth as well as Vitamin C for strength.

o Look out for- Observe any changes in how your guinea pig eats food.Examine their teeth regularly, about once a week or so, for breaks orwear- down. Please be sure to weigh them! If their weight changes more

than 3 oz, take them to a veterinarian immediately!


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Feet- First of all, guinea pig nails need to be trimmed regularly. If you dont trustyourself to do it, your veterinarian will most likely trim them for you. Young pigs

tend to have sharp nails, while "elders" tend to have dull nails. Dont worry too

much if your pigs nails slump to a side. Some nails grow straight and somecurve, which is perfectly normal. As long as the nail is short, there is no need toworry.

o Look out for- Polydactyly, or having an extra toe, can snag or tear, and put your

little one in quite a bit of pain. If your guinea pig has an extra toe,see a veterinarian and discuss possible treatment options. The

veterinarian will most likely surgically remove it, assuming the toeis affect the health and wellness of the pig.

Torn Nails- Sometimes, a nail gets stuck in something and tears

completely off. If profuse bleeding occurs, styptic powder or flourwill help. Dab the affected toe in the powder to clot the blood. Itmay take a month for the nail to grow back completely. Alwayskeep an eye on the affected area for any signs of infection. If any

signs of infection, such as redness, puss or swollen appearance,occur please visit a veterinarian as soon as possible.

Spurs--Spurs are tough pieces of skin that stick up from their feetand are similar to a hangnail. It does not have anything to do withthe bedding you use; it has to do with how active they are. Themore active, the bigger chance they will have spurs. Spurs alsoinvolve genetics. Spurs should be cleaned with a diluted solution of

povidone-iodine. The dirtier the cage, the more likely they willdevelop an infection. It is very important to keep your cage clean!Spurs can be carefully removed with a human nail clipper to

prevent accidental tearing. Avoid clipping too closely and causing

bleeding.

Nose- The nose should be clear and free of drainage. Snotty noses and frequent

sneezing can be a sign of a bacterial infection. Fungal infections often start on theface as well. Cheilitis is an inflammation of the lips that sometimes spreadstoward the nose. Nose irritation could be a URI, Fungus,or Cheilitis, so it is

necessary to see a veterinarian.

Ears- Ears should be clean and free of dirt. Dirty ears can be a sign of a fungalinfection, mites, or poor hygiene. If you feel you need to clean your pigs ears,

use the edge of a wet towel and gently wipe the inner ear.

Fur and Skin- A guinea pig should have healthy looking fur and skin. A modest

amount of shedding is normal. No lumps, scabs, dandruff, or hair loss should be

present. If your guinea pig seems to be overly itchy, agitated, is experiencinghair loss or scabbing, please visit your veterinarian.


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The Importance of Indoor Living

Written by Cielo of Cavy Galore

I wanted to share this with you since there are many people that believe theirbackyard is a safe place to house guinea pigs. I live in a nice neighborhood in Florida. Most

of the time, our weather is not out of the recommendable range for guinea pigs. Although

most people feel predators are not present in communities, I have several stories that proveotherwise and make me thankful that I house my guinea pigs indoors.

When my most beautiful piggy passed, Linny, we made a burial in our backyard. We

made a small hole for him that was deep enough so that his body could rest in peace there.

The next day, my husband called my attention toward a horrible thing. Even though wenever thought we had predators in our backyard, somehow Linnys little body was taken out

of his last resting place and disappeared completely. Only some hairs were left behind. It

was an awful feeling knowing that a predator took him away from us so easily.A couple of weeks ago, I was browsing Craigslist and I read something unbelievable.

A person was encouraging people to take their pets indoors. He/she had a neighbor thathoused his dogs outside. Someone tried to steal his neighbors dogs during the night. This

occurred not once, but twice. The thief was stopped because other neighbors were braveenough to stop the intruder before he could take the dogs. I never thought that people were

capable of doing something so heartless. With so many pets in shelters, rescues andavailable for private adoption, why would somebody want to steal dogs that have a home?

This morning, my husband told me that there were two loose dogs roaming around. Iasked him if he got them so we could help find their owner. He said that somebody called

the shelter. I said, why the shelter? That is an ugly place to wait for your owner. He told

me that they were aggressive. He went to our backyard and when he opened the door,there was a Rottweiler and a Chihuahua. As soon as he opened the door, they started

barking ferociously at him. Those same dogs chased two different neighbors as well. I askedhim the attitude of the dogs and he reassured me that they were ready to attack from their

body language. Scary, don't you think?Predator threats in addition to the possibility of the temperature dropping too low in

the night, too high during the day, or whatever emergency that might arise just increase

the risk of losing your guinea pig due to the outdoors. It is just not safe to leave themoutside alone. Also, it is far less likely for owners to interact with their pets or notice

illnesses if that pet is out of site. Please provide a good house to your guinea pigs, keepthem inside. They are small, easy, fragile prey.


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