Home-DzineIDEAS AND INSPIRATION FOR YOUR HOME

April 2012

online

DESIGNDECORATINGDIY

DESIGNDECORATINGDIY

BULB SEASONBULB SEASONHAPPY EASTERHAPPY EASTER

Home-Dzine Online is written and compiled by Janice Anderssen. All projects in this issue, or any other issue, remain the property of Home-Dzine and Janice Anderssen, or the respective copyright holders, and may not be copied or reproduced in any manner whatsoever without written permission.

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We’ve just finished a bunch of amazingprojects - both for this issue of HDO, and for the next issue of Easy DIY. My favourite is the sliding door that I made for my bathroom, and I love my new door so much that I will be doing another version of the project for HDO. Also, the wine rack in this month’s issue is so easy to make and is a great gift idea - keep in mind for Father’s Day!

Don’t forget to drop us a line at any time (home-dzine@iburst.co.za) if there is a particular project you would like to tackle.

Enjoy!

Janice

a word or two 5BATHING

BEAUTIES

9LIGHTING FOR KIDS’ ROOMS

12EASY HOW DECOR

PROJECTS

23DISCOVER THE ‘POWER’ OF TOOLS

3 ‘MUST-HAVE’ POWER TOOLS

STAND A CHANCE TO WIN BOSCH, DREMEL & SKIL TOOLS HAMPERS

THROUGHOUT THE YEAR.

ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS SEND ‘BEFORE’ & ‘AFTER’ PICS OF YOUR

HOME IMPROVEMENT OR DIY PROJECT TO ENTER.

CLICK HERE FOR DETAILS

29KITCHEN COUNTERTOP MAKEOVER

33BREAKFAST ON THE GO!

35 EASTER CRAFTS

39BULB TIME

43NEAT EDGES FOR BEDS AND BORDERS

45‘MONA LAVENDER’

50MOTHER’S DAY CRAFTS

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BATHINGBEAUTIIES

decor and design

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How many of us really love our master bath?We asked three design experts for their advice on how to make the master bath the tranquil, functional and fabulous space you deserve it to be. As with any scenario, there’s the dream and then reality.

If you’re lucky enough to redo your master bath, here are some rules to renovate by:

“You’re going to use your bathroom every day and if you are making the investment in renovation, make it a room you will love every single day.”

Instead of the standard double vanity, one client asked for a single sink. By adding a marble apron and adding heft with furniture styling, she was able to give the single vanity ample substance while saving space for a larger shower and commode with a door.

“Think outside the box.”

Take a second look at your floor plan tomaximize space, natural light and comfort. Where can you add or enlarge a window? Can you bump out a wall to make room for a larger tub? Can you transform dead space in a wall to a built-in dressing table or inset shelving?

Put your money where it will have the most impact. And remember, quality first, sincethis is one room that gets a lot of use.

Don’t skimp when it comes to the tile guy.Water can be your worst enemy, so make sure to use a reputable tile and stone installer. Ask them if they’re using the proper wallboard behind your shower walls. Are they pitching the shower floor to ensuregood drainage? Is the veining in the marble being book matched so it flows at theseams?

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But what if you don’t have a renovation in your future? There’s still hope:

“Start with the knobs and move on to the taps.”

Even if you’re committed to your cabinets and countertops, changing out your vanity, tub and shower taps and fixtures cantransform dated and faded to classic and clean, and rarely involves more than a couple hours of the plumber’s time. Keep it simple by noting the current tap set-up (for

example, single hole mounting versus three; wall or deck mounted) and sticking with it. Same goes for the cabinet knobs or pulls, and all you’ll need is a screwdriver.

Paint is the fastest, cheapest and easiest way to make a major design impact. When choosing your paint colour and finish,connect the materials in your bathroom through tone and substance. For example, pair creamy marble with a soft paint finish to keep the spaceserene and give it a timeless quality.

Take into account the colours in your marble or granite, and think about the effect this colour will have when you look at your face in the mirror.

“After paint, lighting could be the easiest thing to switch out or add in.”

From a functional standpoint, you need more than just overhead lighting that can cast shadows on the face. Side lighting is important for shaving and applying make-up.

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Feel free to choose lighting that adds glamour and impact, and remember that unless the

light is in the shower, you can expand beyond bathroom fixtures byadding oversized polished

fittings to add formalityand sophistication to a master bath.

Pair this with simple candle sconces above the

tub, making sure to stick with the same finish,plumbing fixtures and cabinet hardware toensure a clean look.

Take a look at the latest range of Eurolux fittings and lamps at

your local Builders Warehouse or lighting store.

“Add a personal touch.”

Balance hard and slick bathroom surfaces with softer textures. Ditch the bathroom mat and lay a luxurious rug in a style that complements your bathroom.

Wallpaper the back of your linen closet in a fun pattern, even hang a precious oil painting above the commode. If your kids use your tub, make sure there’s a comfortable chair for you to sit on while they’re soaking.

And don’t forget to dress your windows for more than just privacy (and if you’re concerned about moisture, use an outdoor fabric—there are hundreds to choose from).

Remember, whatever touches you add, make sure they are authentic and reflect yourpersonal style.

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As your youngster begins growing up, he or she may want the comfort of a night light, which can be left on all night, or alternatively put a mobile battery-operated touch-lamp on the

bedside table, which your toddler can push on and off at will.

Another option is to install a timer-controlled lamp that can be plugged

into the wall, and will switch off after a predetermined time.

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• Lights to stimulate brain activity

Mobile lights splash soft colours and pictures onto a wall and are ideal for stimulating infant brains. A white wall is boring and dull to look at, and babies need colour and movement to promote brain activity.

Rest is equally important for a baby’s brain, making it is a good idea to install a dimmer control switch on your main light, so that when you feed at night, or when your baby wakes up, you can encourage him or her to go back to sleep as quickly and easily as possible.

• Bedtime stories

Bedtime reading has a dual purpose of educating your toddler, and helping him or her to sleep. Consider installing an intense directional bedside lamp. This will ensure that you can see what you’re reading, but won’t interfere with the little one falling asleep.

• Just for fun

Light up your child’s bedroom or playroom with a delightful Eglo or Disney light fitting (from Eurolux) that will add an element of fun, and allow decorators and parents to express their creativity. You’ll find both age-appropriatefittings as well as ones that will be suitable formany years. Innovative designs include a cloud, a clown, the sun, an elephant, an aeroplane, a bee, and more.

• The right light improves concentration

Many kids’ bedrooms double as a study, and it is important to choose a study lamp best suited to your child’s needs. These needs change as your child grows up – a young child needs a small light focused onto a single book, whereas an older child studying from several books such as a workbook, a maths book, a calculator, etc, needs a greater spread of light to aid concentration. The spread of light needs to be where the child is working to keep his attention on his books. In fact research shows that concentration levels increase when working in a well-lit area. If concentration is increased, understanding of the work is easier and the time spent studying is reduced.

Lighting Baby & Kids BedroomsThere are several factors to consider when lighting your baby’s room and taking note of these before selecting the light source for that room would be wise.

Lighting Baby & Kids Bedrooms

TIPColour-match lamps to room

decor

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Fluorescent desk and floor lamps are ideal forpeople working for long periods of time since they don’t produce a lot of heat. If however, you are working on something intense such as studying from a textbook or writing an article, then a halogen lamp is more effective as its colour rendering is superior.

• Safety hazards and children

Ever wondered what the world looks like from your child’s perspective? Get down on your hands and knees and take a look around.

You might be surprised to see some of the following:

• Electrical outlets are now at eye-level, • Cords that can be pulled or wrapped

around necks • Table or floor lamps that can be

knocked or pulled over

Electrical outlets or plug points that are not in use should be covered with special covers. Remember that small fingers can be strongand nimble enough to pry things off, so be sure the plug covers are too big to swallow.

All cords, including those attached to lamps and other appliances, on blinds, and any other ties should be gathered securely and placed out of reach, or put into a cord corral, or tacked to the skirting board. Remember that’s what’s behind the couch may not be visible to you, but certainly is to a child crawling around on the floor. Young childrenlike to put loose objects into their mouths, and electrical wire can be a great (but lethal) teething toy!

Consider securing wobbly table or floorlamps by using double-sided tape or prestik (provided your furniture or floor will allow).

Avoid using glass lampshades if you have young children, as these can present a serious safety hazard if they break or shatter.

Use energy saver globes rather than incandescent globes because they don’t get as hot and you won’t run the risk of little fingersgetting burnt. Energy savers burn much cooler than an incandescent globe because they convert 80% of electricity into light and 20% into heat, whereas incandescents work the other way around, converting 80% of electricity into heat and only 20% into light.

And finally, pay attention to how yourfurniture is arranged, ensuring that it does not provide a climbing toddler with opportunities to investigate new heights. Be especially careful that there is nothing under a window that a child could climb up on!

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Take a look at the latest range of Eurolux fittings andlamps at your local Builders Warehouse or lighting store.

TIPIn a shared

room, provide matched

fittings

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QUICK & EASYHOME DECOR

This wine rack is actually made using 9mm PG Bison SupaWood that is stained to give it a natural wood effect. We would have made it out of timber, but it’s very difficult to find timberthis thin.

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quick and easyYou will need:

2 x 150 x 630mm front/back6 x 150 x 150mm sidesJoiner’s Mate adhesiveWoodoc gel stain in - traditional teak - imbuiaFoam applicatorPaintbrushAcrylic PVA - pale yellowRubber glovesTape measurePencilRuler

TOOLSDrill89mm hole sawClampsWorkbench

Here’s how:

1. It’s far easier to have all your pieces cut to size, but if this isn’t possible you can easily cut 9mm supawood with a jigsaw.

2. Mark the front section to allow for a 30mm gap between the 90mm bottle holes and edges.

3. Where you have marked for the bottle holes, draw diagonal lines to determine the centre point. This is where you will place the drill bit on the hole saw.

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4. Place the front and back sections together on a scrap piece of pine and clamp securely to your workbench.

When using a hole saw I place a scrap piece of pine underneath to

prevent my workbench.

5. Only mark the front and sections with the drill bit on the hole saw. By doing this you only have to mark on one piece. Remove once section.

6. Use the hole saw to cut out to half the depth of the hole and then turn over to continue to cut out the hole. This gives you neat edges on both sides.

7. Cut 6 sections 150 x 150mm for the ends and dividers.

8. Before assembling the pieces I did a paint technique on the supawood so that it resembled wood.

- First I applied a quick coat of pale yellow acrylic PVA.

- Using a foam sponge I applied Woodoc gel stain in teak and imbuia in a layered effect, softly brushed with a paintbrush before it had chance to dry.

Assembly

Use Joiner’s Mate to attach the ends and dividers to the front and back. Both ends are inset by 5mm to allow for stacking if you want to make more than one wine rack.

You will also find this project in the latestissue of Easy DIY magazine.

inset by 5mm

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fauxsupawoodWhilst I have previously advised that it isn’t easy to make PG Bison SupaWood look like real wood unless you have a rocker, this weekend I discovered that you can actually use a faux technique to do it. The trick is to apply a light, patchy coat of paint before applying the gel stain.

This is an exciting discovery for me, as it means I can be more creative with SupaWood.

MAKE SUPAWOOD LOOK LIKE

WOOD

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1. Apply a thin, patchy layer of acrylic paint with a paint brush. Where you leave patches, these will be darker in colour and the brush strokes add texture.

2. Use a foam applicator to apply uneven lines of light colour gel stain to simulate the grain of wood. Don’t be too perfect - have a piece of pine handy as a guideline.

3. After applying enough detail, use the pad of the foam applicator to lightly spread more gel stain over the area. The lines previously applied will now be darker and the new stain lighter.

4. Continue to apply streaks and soften until you are satisfied with the result.You can add a darker stain over this for even more detailed grain effect.

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Build a portable shelf that tapers from large storage shelf at the base to a narrow display space at its top. It’s ideal for bathrooms, but works well in any room of your house.

step upYOUR STORAGE

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YOU WILL NEED:

CUTTING LIST

All items are pine and cut to sizeA 2 19mm 60mm 1370mm rear legsB 2 19mm 60mm 1450mm front legsC 9 19mm 60mm 400mm sides/stretchersD 2 19mm 60mm 410mm bottom endsE 2 19mm 60mm 330mm lower middle endsF 2 19mm 60mm 250mm upper middle endsG 2 19mm 60mm 170mm top endsH 8 10mm 10mm 360mm side cleatsI 2 10mm 10mm 350mm bottom end cleatsJ 2 10mm 10mm 270mm lower middle end cleatsK 2 10mm 10mm 194mm upper middle end cleatsL 2 10mm 10mm 114mm lower middle end cleatsM 1 12mm 370mm 360mm bottom panelN 1 12mm 290mm 360mm lower middle panelO 1 12mm 210mm 360mm upper middle panelP 1 12mm 130mm 360mm top panel

30mm wood screwsMasking tapeWood glueWood fillerProminent Paints Universal UndercoatRust-Oleum 2X spray paintDropcloths

TOOLSJigsaw, circular saw or Dremel Saw MaxMitre saw or mitre box and backsawDrill/Driver + assorted bitsCountersink bitOrbital sander + 120- and 220-grit padsFraming squareClampsTape measurePencil

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TRAY DIAGRAM

LEG DIAGRAM

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HERE’S HOW:

BUILD THE LEGS

1. To cut the long tapers at the tops of the front legs (see diagram), mark the back edges 254mm from the top ends. Draw diagonal cut lines from the top front corners to the marks. Lay the blanks edge to edge on your workbench, staggering the blanks so the two pencil marks form a single straight line.

2. Keeping the blanks in this staggered orientation, position them so the cut lines clear the edge of the workbench. Clamp the blanks to each other and to the workbench to cut the tapers.

GOOD TO KNOWSave the triangular front-leg cut-offs and use them to help clamp the front and rear legs flat to your worksurface for gluing and fastening them together.

3. Glue and clamp the front legs (B) to the rear legs (A), aligning the tips of the front leg angle cuts with the tops of the rear legs. After the glue dries, drill countersunk pilot holes through the front legs and into the rear legs. Make the countersinks deep enough to allow a 1mm covering of wood filler over thescrew heads. Drive in the screws.

4. To angle-cut the bottom ends of the front leg blanks (B) to length, lay a leg assembly on your workbench. Using a carpenter’s square and a straightedge, mark the bottoms of the legs where you’ll make your cuts.

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MAKE THE SHELF TRAYS

1. Mitre-cut the eight sides (C), bottom ends (D), lower middle ends (E), upper middle ends (F), and top ends (G) to length. Square-cut the stretcher (C) to length and set it aside.

2. Before assembling the bottom shelf frame, finish-sand the inside faces ofthe frame parts (C,D).

3. To assemble shelf frames without lots of clamps, first arrange the sides (C)and ends (D) on your workbench with the outside faces up and the mitre tips touching. Align the part edges with a straightedge and stretch masking tape to bridge the still-touching mitre tips.

4. Flip the taped parts and apply glue to both faces of the ‘V’ formed

by the taped-together mitres and to both end mitres. As

you fold the parts into a rectangular frame, the tape should pull the mitres tightly together. A piece of tape joining the end mitres will do the same. Remove excess

glue with a damp cloth. Place the frame on a flat

surface and check it for square. To ensure that the

frame stays flat, place weights,such as cans of paint or varnish, on the corners. Repeat with the remaining sides (C), lower middle ends (E), upper middle ends (F), and top ends (G). After the glue dries, remove the masking tape.

Glue and clamp cleats to the inside edges of the tray

TIPTo check frames for

square, measure the diagonals. If one diagonal is longer, squeeze the frame

across this diagonal. When the diagonals

are equal, the frame is square.

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5. Glue and clamp the cleats to the inside of the respective shelf frame with the bottom edges of the cleats and frames flush.

6. Apply glue to the top surfaces of the cleats in each shelf frame and place the panels on them. Clamp the panels in place, using scrap wood blocks inside the frames to transfer clamp pressure to the panels. Finish-sand the outside faces and top and bottom edges of the shelves. Ease all edges with fine sandpaper and asanding block.

ASSEMBLE AND FINISH

1. Position the leg assemblies (A/B) with the bottom shelf between them on a flat surface. Space the bottomshelf 50mm from the bottoms of the legs and clamp it in place. Stand the assembly upright and make sure the back edges of the rear legs (A) and shelf are flush. Drill countersunk pilotholes for screws through the shelf ends (D) into the front and rear legs. Make the countersinks deep enough to allow a 1mm covering of wood filler over the screw heads. Drive inscrews.

2. Cut four 250mm-long scrap-wood spacers, place them on the edges of the bottom ends (D), and place the lower middle shelf (C/E/H/J/N) on the spacers. Align the back of the shelf with the back edges of the rear legs and clamp the shelf to the legs. Drill countersunk screw holes through the ends into the front and rear legs and drive screws. Repeat with the upper middle and top shelves.

Clamp the second tray in position using spacers

3. Retrieve stretcher (C) and clamp between the rear legs (A), flush at theback and top. Drill countersunk holes through the legs into the stretcher, making the countersinks deep enough to accept wood filler. Drive in screws.

4. Apply wood filler to all the countersinks.When dry, sand the filler flush with thesurrounding surfaces. Examine all parts and finish-sand where needed. Wipeclean before applying undercoat and paint, lightly sanding after the prime coat with fine sandpaper to smoothany raised grain.

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Over the past five years Ihave trained hundreds of ladies (and guys) on the basics of powers tools and the various tips, tricks and techniques used in DIY.

The inherent fear and lack of knowledge has led most people to believe that power tools are dangerous, yet I continue to say that power tools themselves are not dangerous - it’s the person using them that makes them so.

Use a power tool for the first time withoutconfidence and a general know-how ofthe tool and if something can go wrong - it probably will.

So many women, and more than a few guys, have never picked up a power tool because of this fear or lack of knowledge, yet these tools are designed to make DIY easy for the average person.

To discover the ‘power’ of power tools and the sense of empowerment that these tools provide is as easy as reading the instruction manual and acquainting yourself with the tool in question. While using a drill/driver is not as daunting as a circular saw, by knowing what can and cannot be done, how it should be done, and the safety precautions to be followed, after a few practice runs you will come to realise that there was nothing to be afraid of.

Discover the ‘power’ of tools

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Today’s power tools are designed to be as safe as possible. For example: A circular saw has a large, sharp-toothed blade that cuts easily through timber and board, but when holding the saw in your hands - the blade is contained within a safety guard.

Built in safety features mean that power tools, when used as designed and within the recommended guidelines are fun to use, and with this in mind I always recommend a few ‘play’ sessions to gain confidence and become morecomfortable with your power tools.

PlaytimeHave some scrap wood on hand - a selection of various boards and some timber - and practice with the various power tools you own. In this way you don’t have to worry about destroying something, or making an item that looks absolutely awful, but rather experience what the tool can do; how to hold it so that it feels comfortable, the best way to control the tool and so on.

Martie using an Angle Grinder to cut ceramic tiles.

EMPOWER YOURSELF

“At one of our very first AdvancedWorkshops where we had a ‘hands-on’ class on using an angle grinder, I can clearly see a group of ladies standing around waiting for their turn, and literally shaking in their boots! At the recent Homemakers Expo, one of these ladies (Martie) came up to me and told me that she now manufactures concrete countertops and uses an industrial angle grinder to cut concrete. Imagine that; going from absolute fear to using one of the most feared power tools as

part of her own business.”

As you discover how easy it is to do-it-yourself and use power tools, you will view things differently - and by things I mean items that you would normally purchase.

Ladies who have attended a DIY Divas workshop agree that more attention is given to inspecting items that they need for the home.

No longer simply buying without question, by having an understanding of how things are done (or made), you pay more attention to how items are manufactured, what they are made of and whether or not you could make it yourself.

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MUST HAVEPOWER TOOLS3

Whether you are putting in, taking out, repairing or making, a drill/driver will provide all the power you need to make every job easier, faster and more enjoyable. A cordless drill/driver is a screwdriver and drill - in one lightweight and portable tool.

If it wasn’t for Bosch I probably wouldn’t be where I am today! They have pioneered a range of Lithium-Ion tools that are not only easy to use, they are extremely powerful.

Back in the day, it was downright frustrating to use a screwdriver to take out or drive in screws. It used to take ages and by the time you were finished you’d had enough. I hatedscrewdrivers. Even piddly little cordless screwdrivers were more talk than action. It was the introduction of the Bosch cordless drill/driver that changed DIY for me.

With enough torque to take out the tightest screw on slow speed, and plenty of power for drilling into plaster, a drill/driver is the type of tool you need in your home workshop.

Don’t waste your money on inferior tools when you can invest in a quality drill/driver that will last a lifetime when properly used and maintained.

Consider a Bosch PSR-12, PSR-18 (NiCad) or PSR 14,4 or 18 LI-2 Lithium Ion Drill/Driver.

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It’s amazing how many ladies attend the DIY Divas workshops having never used a jigsaw before, and yet, after using it - they want one!

While you can have all your timber and board cut to size at your local Builders Warehouse, what happens when you want a curved edge, or a circular shape, or perhaps something was cut to the wrong size and you need to trim. Owning a jigsaw makes all these possible, plus a few more tips and tricks you can do as well.

Create and make your own headboard with cut-out design, or make panel screens with detailing, a jigsaw not only cuts straight lines and curves, it’s great for fretwork too.

If you are going to spoil yourself with a jigsaw, even the bottom of the range Bosch models are excellent. But as an investment for those who will use it often, the cordless PST 18 LI Li-Ion jigsaw is my tool of choice.

For sanding I always say that you should have two sanders: a multi-sander for getting into tight spots and corners, and a Random Orbit Sander for fine sanding and polishing.In fact, if you’re really into DIY you should kit yourself out with a multi-sander, an orbital sander AND a random orbit sander. Each one has its advantages when it comes to specific tasks.

LEFT: While I love the new cordless Li-Ion sander, for the cost, I would rather buy the two sanders that I need. However, if you are planning any repairs and don’t have access to

power supply, then the Bosch PSM 18 LI is a good choice.

stock up on tools and

accessories at your local

builders warehouse

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and the winner is ...

Over a single weekend, Eugene van Rensburg fitted Airostone(veneer wall cladding), using a hacksaw and mitre box from his local Builders Warehouse in Strubens Valley builder warehouse.

The project transformed a dull lounge wall into a modern feature for an affordable and way to update the decor in his home.

Thank you for submitting your Home Improvement Projects. It’s nice to know that there are homeowners out there that know how affordable it is to DIY-it. Eugene van Rensburg is our first winner of a hamper of Bosch & Skil power tools. Well done!

Don’t forget to submit your entries via the Home Improvement section on Home-Dzine. We have power tool hampers up for grabs throughout the year.

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IF YOU ARE TACKLING ANY TYPE OF DECORATING, HOME IMPROVEMENT OR DIY PROJECT - WE WANT TO KNOW! IN FACT, WE WANT TO SHARE YOUR PROJECT AND ENTER YOU INTO THE QUARTERLY DRAW FOR BOSCH, SKILL AND DREMEL TOOL HAMPERS.

ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS USE YOUR BOSCH, SKIL OR DREMEL TOOLS TO MAKE, REPAIR OR INSTALL AND SEND US A FEW ‘BEFORE’ AND ‘AFTER’ PICS. THEN TELL US HOW YOU TACKLED THE PROJECT.

SEND IMAGES AND DETAILS TO: home-dzine@iburst.co.za

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Reuse - R

ecycle - Repurpose

I know there are a lot of homeowners out there who are looking for ways to cover up or makeover an ugly kitchen countertop and, not too long ago, I posted an article on the Home-Dzine.co.za website about restoring my countertop after one of the kids badly scratched the finish.

As I was dozing off to sleep the other night I had an idea for giving the countertop a new look, not just restoring the finish. The projectI had in mind was to use an old (very old) recipe book and stick the pages onto the countertop. Well, today I tackled the project and by the time this issue goes out to print I will be able to tell you whether or not it worked (fingers crossed)!

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You will need:Acrylic sealerFoam rollerPaint trayCraft knifeRecipe book*

*You could also use newspaper, vintage leaflets, or anything else youthink might work or tickles your fancy!

Buy a 5 litre tin of acrylic sealer, as you will need to apply several coats for best protection. The finished resultwill be waterproof, as long as any spills are cleaned up quickly.

Not easy to see,but the countertop has deep scratches all over the surface.

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Here’s how:

1. First, clean the surface with Sugar Soap or a good de-greaser, rinse and dry thoroughly. Use a foam roller to apply a liberal amount of acrylic sealer to a small section.

2. Place the first sheet of paper onto the wetacrylic sealer and then roll over the top with more sealer.

3. Continue to add more pages in this way, always making sure the surface is wet and applying sealer over the top of the paper. Cover the entire countertop with pages. I have also covered the edges of the countertop to prevent it from peeling off at a later stage.

4. After the first coat of sealer hasdried, use a sharp craft knife to pop where there are air bubbles and force these out with your fingertip.

5. Once all the pages are down, apply another liberal coat of acrylic sealer. Let this dry. You will repeat the application of sealer for another 5 coats. Luckily the sealer dries quite fast.

6. Let the sealer dry overnight and the following morning use 220-grit sandpaper to lightly sand to remove any bumps.

7. Continue steps 5 and 6 until you have a perfectly smooth finish.

The finished result will be waterproof andeasy to clean and provide your kitchen countertops with a new improved finish -without the cost of buying new!

GOOD TO KNOWAs you work you will

notice air pockets under the paper - use your fingertip to squeeze

these out as much as possible.

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remember my pole dance in the kitchen project!

ALUMINIUM ROOFING TAPE APPLIED AROUND THE EDGE

THE PHOTOS REALLY DON’T DO JUSTICE TO THE FINISHED PROJECT - IT LOOKS GREAT!

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food fun

BreakfastON THE GO

Love this recipe from Adventures of our family - what a great way to prepare breakfast in advance!

If you don’t eat breakfast because you don’t have the time, or the early morning appetite - now you can make it and eat it at your leisure with these easy to make and appetising Breakfast Cups.

These breakfast cups made from scrambled eggs, bacon, and shredded cheese are the perfect addition to a brunch spread or breakfast table. And since the egg, bacon, and cheese is contained in a delicious doughy cup, they are super portable and easy for kids to eat!

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1. Preheat oven to 180 degrees. Spray muffin tinwith non-stick cooking spray. You want to get good coverage of the spray inside of each of the muffin cups so everything comes out niceand easy later on.

2. Cut the puff pastry dough into triangles.

3. Take one triangle and place the widest part of it on the bottom of a muffin cup. A tail ofdough should be hanging out the side.

4. Take a sharp knife and cut off the ‘tail’ and then use it to line the part of the muffin cupthat isn’t already covered in dough. Repeat this process for the remaining muffin cups. Then,put the muffin tin in the refrigerator to chill whileyou prepare the filling.

5. Place your bacon on a microwave safe plate and cook in the microwave. You could also cook it on the stove but this method is faster and you don’t have to worry about watching it in a pan.

6. Crack 5 eggs into a bowl. Add 1/4 cup milk and scramble the yolks using a fork or wire whisk. Then, add salt and pepper to taste.

7. Put your egg mixture into a pan and cook over medium-low heat for approximately 5-8 minutes. You want the eggs to be firm butslightly runny. The eggs will finish cooking laterin the oven.

8. Take your muffin tin out of the fridge and spoonthe scrambled eggs into each cup. (As you can see from the glare on the pan I used lots of non-stick spray!). Crumble pieces of bacon on top of the eggs and finish off with gratedcheese.

9. Place the breakfast cups into the pre-heated oven and cook for 15 minutes or until the edges are golden brown and the cheese is melted.

Once finished, remove from the oven and run asharp knife around the edges of each muffin cup.

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Easter delights

These glittery Easter eggs take minutes to put together and are sure to add a little pizzazz to your tabletop decor. Simply cover each egg with a thin layer of all-purpose glue and then place in a sealable plastic bag filled with gold glitter. Close the bag and shake. Gently remove the egg,tap off excess and leave to set.

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Turquoise Easter eggs

These eggs would make a wonderful addition to an Easter dinner as tabletop decor. Simply paint some eggs using turquoise paint and cover others using patterned tape. We love the monochromatic look of this set - which would also look lovely paired with yellow or pink hues.

Patterned Easter eggs

Add a few drops of food colouring to a bowl of cold water. Test the colour by dipping a piece of paper in the water and add more colouring if needed.

Place a few elastics around each egg in a whimsical pattern, making sure they hold tightly around the egg. Gently add the eggs to your dye. Turn the eggs over to ensure that they are evenly coloured. Remove from the water and leave to dry. Once the eggs are completely dry, remove the elastic bands to reveal your pattern.

Flowery Easter eggs

These eggs are simply adorned with paper flowers. You can purchase these at craftstores or make your own using a flower-shaped hole puncher.

Using a dab of all-purpose glue, secure the flowers to the surface of the egg. Leave todry completely before displaying.

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Create this table setting using a dyeing technique that requires little more than vinegar, oil, and food colouring.

1. With an egg blower, pierce the top and bottom of each egg, puncturing the yolk; carefully expel the contents. Rinse and let dry.

2. In a small mixing bowl, combine 3 cups warm water, 2 tablespoons vinegar, and a few drops of food colouring. Place egg in dye, and leave it submerged until it turns the desired shade.

3. In a wide, shallow bowl, prepare a second batch of dye -- to provide the swirls -- in a darker shade or a different colour. Liquid should be 2 cm deep. Add 1 tablespoon olive oil. Run a fork through this mixture, creating curlicues of oil on the surface.

4. As oil swirls, place dyed egg in mixture, and roll it once around the bowl to pick up oil streaks; remove the egg.

5. Gently pat egg with a paper towel.

Marbelized Easter egg table setting

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Brighten a clutch of undyed eggs with stylized patterns from paper napkins, then tuck them into baskets to give as Easter favours.

If you’re going to try our Kitchen Countertop makeover (pg 29) - you will have plenty of acrylic sealer left over for this project.

TIP: Any easy way to blow out eggs is to pierce the shell with a sharp

knife tip; insert a long paperclip to stir up the contents and

allow for blowing out.

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Here’s how1. Trim loosely around the designs on a white

napkin using small scissors. Separate printed top layer; discard lower sheets.

2. Coat part of your egg with acrylic sealer using a small brush. Apply cutout design to egg; smooth with brush. Let dry. Repeat, adding designs as desired.

3. Apply acrylic sealer with a medium brush to entire egg. Let dry.

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gardening delights

I might not have a green thumb, but there is something so utterly gorgeous about bulbs that attracts my attention each and every year.

Every year I faithfully dig over the beds and add the required compost to ensure a nice rich soil for planting and then I pop into my local garden centre to see what offerings they have. Usually, while I’m out shopping the dogs take the time to find out what I am doing and continue to dig, and dig,and dig. By the time I get home I have to put all the soil back into the beds.

I really don’t know why my bulbs never do well. Following the instructions I regularly water, feed, and plant the bulbs in full sun, semi-shade, or shade, as specified. It’s high excitement when the bulb start to shoot in abundance,only for the low of disappointment as one or two bulbs start to flower. Ahwell, there’s nothing wrong with continuing to try and perhaps one year I’ll get it right!

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Bulbs like their roots to be kept continually moist from planting time onwards for optimum flowering.

The ideal soil, for improved texture and drainage, consists of roughly equal parts sand, clay and organic matter. You may, if you wish, pamper your bulbs even more by providing a mulch of about 3 centimetres above the soil (like a blanket) to keep the soil temperature more constant and to help retain moisture.

All your bulbs need to set them growing is a reasonable soil, loosened to a depth of about 20 centimetres and regular, generous watering every 4 to 5 days, enabling the roots to drink continually from planting time onwards.

Feed them with special Hadeco flower bulb foodonce in a while and you will be rewarded with a spectacular show which only flower bulbs can give.

One of my favourite bulbs, perhaps because it never lets me down, is Hyacinth. I normally pop a few bulbs into a pot and some into glass vases for the kitchen windowsill. Their beautiful scent fills thekitchen from opening to the end of their season.

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Local is lekker

Consider that nearly half of the bulbs grown in gardens all over the world have their origins in South Africa and you will understand with “Local is lekker” is the buzz word in gardening circles.

Flower bulbs are an easy and effective way of bringing gorgeous colour into your summer garden and Hadeco bulbs have all the nutrients they need to grow and flower already stored up inside their tightfolds.

Bulbs will grow in almost any type of soil, as long as it drains well. Once they are planted, all they need from you to flowersuccessfully is sufficient water. The bulb’sroots need to be kept continuously moist from planting time onwards.

Water with a sprinkler every four days, for forty minutes and don’t

forget it!

If your bulbs go through a period of drought they may fail to flower. Onceyour bulbs are planted and are well watered, all you have to do is sit back and enjoy the colour spectacle when the blooms appear.

Check the back of their bulb packs for full planting instructions – this will give you all the information about when they flower, how tall they grow, whether theygrow in full sun or semi shade, etc.

Gardeners in general and indigenous enthusiasts in particular are in for a treat this spring with the release of 9 new indigenous bulbs.

Related to the Flame lily, Christmas bells (Sandersonia) are a delightful addition to gardens, bearing slender 30cm stems adorned with nodding, bell-like orange or yellow blooms. Found growing naturally in rocky terrain, they are particularly well suited for growing in pots and rockeries.

Although only suitable for planting from mid-August to October, this is definitelyone variety to look out for at your local garden centre or nursery.

The like a semi-shade position and reach a height of up to 30 centimetres.

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Another beauty that never lets me down is Zantedeschia ‘Black Star’.

Blooming from early to late summer, the truly magnificent blooms that Zantedeschia bear against a background of lush, arrow-shaped leaves are a must in any garden or balcony. South African gardeners have a whopping 21 different hybrids to choose from. These range from pinks and oranges through to reds, deep purples and blacks. Once you have planted your arums it is best to leave them undisturbed for many years. They will benefit from a top dressing of well-rotted manure in spring and aregular dose of bulb food. Consistent, deep watering during the growing months will stimulate flowering.

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Both concrete and brick pavers make a simple, handsome border and work well as edging material too. They’re ideal when you want a wide border that keeps grass out of the garden, yet allows flowers and other plants to spill over withoutintruding onto the grass. You’re less likely to chop them up with the lawn mower.

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The paver design shown here provide a nice, flat surface for the lawn mower wheel to rollalong and make a clean cut. You shouldn’t have to trim the edges after mowing.

Concrete pavers are designed for rugged outdoor use. Brick pavers are too, but don’t confuse them with regular bricks, which are typically softer and more likely to break down. Set the pavers in a bed of sand for easier positioning and levelling.

1. Use a garden hose to mark the best-looking border shape and to make gradual curves. Don’t hesitate to trim the trench a bit here or there as you cut the edge to smooth curves or alter the garden bed shape. For straight borders, follow a tightly stretched string line.

DIY TIP: It’s important to set the front edge of

the pavers about 1 centimetre above the soil in the lawn so the lawn mower can cut the grass cleanly. Just make sure the top of each paver sits flush withits neighbour and that the front edges create a smooth line. You can go back later and whack them perfectly flushwith a block of wood and a hammer or a rubber mallet.

2. The 10 centimetre deep sand bed that you lay over landscape fabric keeps most grass types from sending roots under the edging and getting into the garden.

DIY TIP: The pavers we set on edge are primarily

decorative, but they also raise the garden bed slightly and help retain mulch. Set them higher or lower to fitthe needs of your garden.

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mona lavender

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Plectranthus ‘Mona Lavender’ is a hybrid developed at our very own Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens and is becoming a hit around the world!

There are many Plectranthus species that are used as ornamental herbaceous plants for the garden, not only in South Africa, but all around the world. Most of these come from the more subtropical/tropical areas of southern Africa.

Home-Dzine reader Ian Jamieson shares his top for an indigenous shade-loving

plant.

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There are many Plectranthus species that are used as ornamental herbaceous plants for the garden and, being so easy to propagate from cuttings, they are readily shared amongst keen gardeners and are one of the few plants that grow well in shade.

‘Mona Lavender’ is a quick-growing, herbaceous, perennial shrub reaching up to 0.75 m in height, forming a lovely, rounded, dense bush. It has dark green, glossy leaves with intensely purple undersides and sprays of lavender flowers dashedwith purple markings.

Growing ‘Mona Lavender’ is a pleasure for any gardener as it is relatively adaptable and trouble free. It does very well in either shaded or partly sunny positions. When it receives sun it tends to stay smaller and more compact and the leaves exhibit a much more intense colouring - especially on the purple undersides of the leaf.

’Mona Lavender’ flowers veryunpredictably, but does well in shortened daylight, which starts in autumn, but depending on how old the plant is and how much it has been pinched back, flowering can be extended right intoearly summer.

The plant enjoys a rich soil with plenty of humus, and won’t say no to extra compost! It is quite a thirsty plant, so water every few days to keep it fresh and turgid. The plants enjoy being pinched back to make great bedding plant - looking good when planted en masse.

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CLICK TO SUBMIT YOUR ENTRYCLICK TO SUBMIT YOUR ENTRY

THE BUILDERS MUSEUM OF ART ISCALLING ALL ASPIRING ARTISTS!THE BUILDERS MUSEUM OF ART ISCALLING ALL ASPIRING ARTISTS!

INSPIRE US WITH YOUR CREATIVITY.INSPIRE US WITH YOUR CREATIVITY.Entries close 30 April 2012, after which we’ll open the Builders Museum of Art to the online public - the masterpiece which receives the most votes online wins! T&Cs apply.

Stand a chance to WIN a fine arts hamper from Builders Express & Builders Warehouse in 3 simple steps!To enter, buy any KAIBO, RENOIR OR PRO ART product from Builders Warehouse or Builders Express between 27 March and 15 April 2012.

Create a painting masterpiece with the products and take a photograph. Visit facebook.com/Builders Fan or BuildersFan.com to enter this masterpiece in the “Builders Museum of Art.”

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Be creative,

use your

imagination,

have fun!

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Make a gift for Mother’s Day

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Print out the bookmark template

onto thick paper and cut out the shape. Cut out the centre

hole.

Wrap white pipe cleaners around arms, ears, and head of cutout.

Cut your photo slightly larger than the centre hole and glue onto the back of the bookmark.

Use scissors to cut off any

extra bits.

Make a gift for Mother’s Day

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TAKE A LOOK AT OUR SCHEDULE FOR 2012

More great projects for you to make and take homeBeginners & Advanced Workshops

Basic Electrical and Plumbing WorkshopsSoul Sisters for our Cape Town DIY Divas

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Every Saturday morning from 09:00 to 12:00at a venue near you.

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