Sandy Crag —

A Climbing and Bouldering Guide

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A series of downloadable PDF guides to new bouldering venues , problems, highballs and routes in Northumberland. Including:

The Stell Whiteheugh Raven’s Crag

Caller Crag , Corby’s and Edlingham Greensheen Hill Parkside Wood

The Maiden Chambers Area St Cuthbert’s Cave The Bowden Area

The Wanneys Group Beanly Moor and Hunterheugh Blakey’s Bloc

Cockenheugh Kyloe Out Rothley

The Ravensheugh Area Banno Crags Titlington and the Turban

South Yardhope Brady’s Crag Coquet View

Shitlington The Lost World Lookwide

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NMC Northumbrian

Mountaineering

Club

Introduction... ...Northumberland Bouldering

TECHNICAL NOTES

The location of each crag is indicated by its Grid Reference.

Maps

The County is covered by seven Ordnance Survey Explorer (1:25,000) maps. Sheets 339 (Kelso), 340 (Holy Island), OL16 (The Cheviot Hills), 332 (Alnwick and Amble), OL42 (Kielder Water), 325 (Morpeth) and OL43 (Hadrian’s Wall). The majority of the crags lie on sheets 340 and 332.

General

On occasions the problems are referenced to routes that are not described in the climbing guide, or in the second edition bouldering guide. You may need these guides or to ask a local climber help you locate the problems.

Sit Starts

Most problems are written up as standing starts off one mat only! Generally sit starts are added at the end of a description where they add either to the difficulty, or quality. Only rarely will a sit start be separately named.

Rules

It has long been understood in Northumberland that if a twig is found on a ‘good’ foothold, then the foothold is out of bounds. The same applies to bedding planes , ledges and footholds in contact with the ground. Usually these are out of bounds. The previous guide wisely suggested that if you are wondering if the foothold is in, then it probably is not!

Further Information

The NMC website has a variety of resources relating to climbing in the County. If you have this PDF you’ve probably found it already. Otherwise go to: www.thenmc.org.uk

New Problems

Descriptions of new problems and routes should be sent to newroutes @thenmc.org.uk. A descrip-tion, grade, date and name of first ascentionist should be included. A photo with a line marking the route would also help.

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Bob Smith

Greensheen Slopers Traverse

Greensheen Hill

BOULDERING GRADES

It is true to say that there are only two grades, the problems and routes you can do, and those you can’t. To the keen boulderer however it soon becomes apparent that this can be sub divided into the problems you can do and your mates can’t, and vice versa! Grading boulder problems (and some routes) is an almost impossible task. The table below is a rough comparison of the common systems in use. Visitors to the County will probably find that, until they get used to the style of the problems and the intricacies of climbing on the County’s various Sandstones, the accuracy of the table will be questionable. Grades are an art rather than a science, and while difficulty is central to bouldering , it is easily confused with quali-ty. The pursuit of which is an equally rewarding endeavour.

The various grading systems are well understood, and like grades are an ongoing source of debate regarding their respective mer-its.

In these PDF guides we have retained the Font grades introduced in the last guidebook and their use is now established and un-derstood.

Highballs

The height of many crags in the County demands a highball ap-proach. Mats can reduce the consequences when highballing goes wrong, but there comes a point when they look very small. Many of these ‘problems’ would have been considered small routes not long back, (though some in this new series are not so small) and occasionally are compounded with bad landings. Fall-ing off them should not be treated casually. While highballs are self-evident, many shorter problems have bad landings and need careful padding and spotting. Be careful!

Steve Blake

Dutch Courage

Shitlington

Photo: Alec Burns

FONT GRADE

UK TECH GRADE

V GRADE

3 4c VB

4 5a

V0

4+ 5b

5 V1

5+ 5c

6a V2

6a+ 6a V3

6b

6b+ V4

6c

6c+

6b V5

7a V6

7a+ 6c V7

7b

7b+ V8

7c V9

7c+ V10

8a 7a V11

8a+ V12

8b 7b V13

8b

8b+

8c

8c+

V14

V15

Introduction... ...Northumberland Bouldering

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SUSTAINABILITY

The quality and durability of Sandstone in North-umberland varies significantly both on and be-tween crags. Iron hard rock with a case hard-ened patina can coexist with a super soft cheesy substance soft enough to be shaped by hand. Sadly there is much evidence that the tough pati-na when worn away reveals a soft inner that rap-idly erodes. There are many examples, but Vien-na at Bowden Doors is probably the most famous example, which in its current deplorable state is a much easier and sad shadow of the original .

Over the last thirty years the popularity of Rock Climbing and Bouldering has accelerated and there is much similar evidence of our impact on the crags. Routes and problems on Sandstone, especially on fragile and well-used Sandstone, are a finite resource and need careful and sensitive protection if they are to survive.

It is worth repeating that you should not climb on sandstone when there is any evidence of damp-ness. The rock becomes significantly weaker los-ing its bonding when damp, and is susceptible to accelerated erosion and breakage. Once a break occurs, or the outer patina is penetrated, then the effects of erosion are exponential.

Many magnificent routes in Northumberland have escaped significant damage, principally because the habit of top roping hard routes has not been adopted as readily as elsewhere. Bouldering however, is a particular-ly intensive game which can see a team cycling through repeated attempts on a problem, brushing and ragging between each effort. The impact of this can be seen on relatively recent problems on which holds are already bleaching out., and this is on rock thought of as hard.

We are the stewards of these places. There are many things we can do to minimise our direct impact on them:

1. Everyone should acknowledge and understand the fragility of the medium and learn to walk away if there is any suggestion of dampness and the rock is not in condi-tion.

2. Set yourself a realistic number of attempts at a prob-lem, if you can’t do it, leave it until you can do it without beating it into submission. We need to have enough hu-

mility to understand that the rock’s needs are more important than our egos. Learn to walk away and come back when you’re capable.

Vienna

Bowden Doors

David Murray

On Barnaby Rudge

The Good Book Section, The Stell.

Alec Burns collection

3.3. Be gentle with brushwork, and minimal with your chalk. Climbing indoors, we can brush the holds to our hearts content; outdoors, the effect can be catastrophic.

4.4. Poor footwork also impacts, so clean your shoes before you begin an attempt. Modern shoes allow a huge amount of force to be exerted through the feet, eg twisting on smears has a grinding effect that speeds up erosion. Be aware, use good footwork and tread lightly.

5.5. Don’t use the problems for training. Running laps may look cool, but do it indoors on plas-tic, not on the rock.

6.6. Take your junk home, don’t light fires, don’t leave gates open. If you must, learn how to shit in the woods. Do not be generally antisocial.

Introduction... ...Sandy Crag

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Aspect and Approach

Approach from Rothbury in the East, or Elsdon in the West via the B6341

Sandy Crags, (not to be confused with Key Heugh which is 500m SW, sits on the edge of the Hepple

Moor escarpment and is part of the same exposed bedding plane that includes Key Heugh, Tosson, Ra-

vensheugh and Simonside. The crag, like the others mentioned earlier is in a fine position and looks

North to the Cheviots and beyond. Like all of these crags it is an exposed venue, but is ideal for a sum-

mers day when lower crags are oppressively hot. The orientation of the boulders means that some-

thing shady will be found until mid afternoon when the sun eventually hits the main face.

The approach is similar to that for Sandy and has been agreed with the Estate. While the crag is on ac-

cess land (and can be accessed by Public Footpath) the approach described is by far the easiest. Please

call the keeper before heading out as there are occasional shoots on the moor that could be disrupted.

Park at the National Trust car park 250m North of the entrance to Midge Ha at Hepplewoodside Bridge.

Walk back and go through the entrance to the Hepplewoodside track, follow this past the keepers lodge

and continue until Midge Ha comes into view. At this point there is a dry stone wall and stile next to the

track.

Turn left and with the dry stone wall on your left cross another fence and pole stile onto the access

land/moor. Follow the wall around to the left. After about 400m there is a gap in the wall that is missing

the gate. A small cairn on the right marks the start of a track through the heather. Continue to a junction

with a larger track and turn right, after 40m another cairn marks a track heading diagonally left. Follow

this, aiming for the left hand side of the Bilberry covered slope ahead. Some subtle tracks go diagonally

through this and deposit you on the small plateau below the crag. At this point a number of tracks head

to the two sections of the crag, pick your way across to whichever section you’re headed to.

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Crag Location Data

Crag Lat Long:

WGS 84 55.272097 –2.044111

Crag GR: NY 97586 97273

Crag Detail

Sandy Crag

Missing Gate

Midge Ha

Cairn

Key Heugh

The crag is on CROW land, and there is a right of access to

it. There are however , restrictions in place and dogs are

not allowed.

The approach route described should be used. Note that

this is a working moor and as a curtesy the Gamekeeper should be

called on 01669640272

Sandy Crags (The Land of Milk and Honey) OS Map Sheet OL42 : GR NY 97586 97273

Altitude: 314m

Aspect: North and West Facing

Approach: @35 Minutes

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Crag Overview

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Tosson Simonside

Ravensheugh

Sandy Crag

Key Heugh

Location Data

Parking Lat Long: WGS84 55.288488 –2.049178

Parking GR: NY 96974 9378

Drystone Wall

Cairn

Tosson Approach

Bilberry Slope

Northumberland Bouldering ...Sandy Crag Northumberland Bouldering ...Sandy Crag

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History

It is thought that the crag was first visited by Andrew Earl and Mick Rudden who were reported as say-

ing the crag wasn't suitable for climbing! This legend persisted until 2015 when Steve Blake walked up

to the crag and discovered the potential for bouldering and routes. Bob Smith was recruited and in ear-

ly 2015 the two developed the early routes on the West boulders. Almost simultaneously Franco Coock-

son (who had moved to the area fron Yorkshire) was investigating the aretes on Key Heugh and wan-

dered over to have a look at the crag. He quietly worked several routes, eventually succeeding on the

Horse. Meanwhile Tim Blake, supported by his dad did the classic corner line of Tradmans Crack . Fran-

co was also working several other lines: the large wall left of the corner, but in working the route he

unfortunately broke many of the holds, what remains proved too difficult for him and remains a consid-

erable challenge. Similarly the wall right of the Horse has an obvious line that he attempted. Franco

then published a video of the Horse and Steve Blake became aware of his interest.

With the crag in the public domain, Steve introduced Dan Varian to the crag. On his first visit Dan

cleaned and climbed the left hand arête resulting in Night Moves a very highball 6c+ and repeated on-

sight and ground up, the Horse. Si Lichfield established the left hand line on the rear arête of the pinna-

cle ‘Glue Factory,’ while Steve Blake climbed the centre of the wall ‘Hoarse Whisperer’.

There is scope for further development, the plateau above the crag is littered with buttresses and

craglets that await the enthusiast. Some problems have been established by Steve and Tim Blake on the

Mushroom and Reptiles Back blocs. These lie some 500m South of the crag and will be included in a

subsequent miniguide

Steve Blake

On Cushy Butterfield’s teetering mantle.

Photo: Bob Smith

Northumberland Bouldering ...Sandy crag Northumberland Bouldering …Sandy Crag

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The Pinnacle

Bob’s Bloc

The Aretes

Slab & Crack

The Diamond

The Shire

The Horse The Far Side The Land of Milk and Honey

Bob Smith

Bird of Pray

Bob Smith Collection

Dan Varian

On the First Ascent of:

Night Moves 6c+

Steve Blake Collection

Northumberland Bouldering ….The Land of Milk and Honey Northumberland Bouldering …The Land of Milk and Honey

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Steve Blake

Making use of his span.

Stuck in the Middle.

Bob Smith

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1. All Alone. 6c. SB. The left side of the base of

the pinnacle. Pull up and trend right to the flake

then back left to the heather ledge. The arête/slab

above may be possible and is an open project.

P. The right overhanging arête is an open project.

clamp your way to success or the hospital.

2. The Glue Factory. E3 5c. SL. On the rear of the

pinnace, the up the left arête and span across to the

flake. Up this to the notch.

3. The Night Porter. 6a+ SB. The centre of the

back wall. To the same flake. Less likely to deposit

you on the boulders below.

4. Positive Contact 8a. DV. The wall and blunt

rib behind the pinnacle . A short bu brilliant

problem culminating in a hard slap to the sloper

5. Night Moves. 6c+. DV. The fine left hand

arête of the main buttress. Technically not a high

number, but very highball! Climb (relatively) eas-

ily up to the undercut. Pull up to a decent pinch

high on the arête this brings good holds in the

base of the diagonal crack into reach.

P… The large wall was shunted by Franco Cook-

son but proved too brittle and key holds broke. It

may or may not be climbable. If it is, it will likely

prove hard.

7. Pegasus. HVS. TB. The corner crack is a clas-

6. Tradman’s Crack. HVS 5a TB. The rattling

scrattling corner crack is followed throughout.

7. The Horse. E8 f6c/7a? FC. Climb easily up to

the ‘hole’, continue to some small crimps and an

obvious small layaway crimp for the right hand.

P.The diagonal line to the right of the Horse is an

open project.

8. The Shetland Pony. 6a SB. Diminutive. At the

extreme right hand side of the wall a small and del-

icate ironstone seam is apparent. Use this CARE-

FULLY to reach up and left to a mantleshelf finish.

Dan Varian

The ‘good pinch’ on Night moves

Steve Blake collection.

Northumberland Bouldering ….Sandy Crag Northumberland Bouldering …Sandy Crag

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2. The Glue Factory. E4 5c.

SL.

This palms the left arete, kick-

ing right to reach the flake and

thus the notch in the top of the

pinnacle. Because of it’s prox-

iminty to the edge, a fall may

see you deposited on the boul-

ders below. The trad grade sug-

gested by Si Litchfield reflects

this.

3. The Hoarse Whisperer . 6a+

SB. This climbs the centre of

the pinnacle to the diagonal

rail, via a prominent ironstone

nodule. Much safer than the

previous route!

The descent from the pinnacle

is down the East side at about

VS. via the prominent (and hol-

low) flat hold.

Dan Varian

On Positive Contact

Steve Blake Collection

Rich Lanham

On The Hoarse Whisperer

Steve Blake Collection

Steve Blake

Finishing Bird of Pray

Bob Smith Collection

Northumberland Bouldering ….The Far Side Northumberland ...Bobs Bloc

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6 5

Bobs Block North Side 1. Bird of Pray Right Hand Start. 6b+ BS. Sit Start, pull up the rib

and continue.

2. Scooper Trooper. 7b. DV. Pull into the scoop using some small

crimps and a testy rock over.

4

5. Dan’s Line Use the footholds just

over the lip to reach the blunt rib.

6. The Sneak Thief. 6b SB. Step onto

the extreme right rib and pad up the

lip of the slab to the blunt rib.

7. Tic Tac Toe. 6a SB. The line up the

slab right of the rib.

1. Bird of Pray Left Hand Start. 6c BS. Standing ,

pull up the rib using the feint slopers and continue.

To a difficult pull over

2. A Cry for Help. 7a+. DV. Pull up to the obvious

hold on the wall above the crack, span to the arête

and roll over to finish as for Bird of Prey.

7. Tic Tac Toe. 6a SB. The line up the

slab right of the rib.

8. Whaleback. 4. SB. Pad up the

blunt rib.

Northumberland Bouldering ….The Far Side - The Shire Bloc Northumberland ...The Far Side—Slab and Crack

17 18

Bobs Block North Side

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12. The Shire 6a+.SB. The wall just left

of the right arête. A little hollow—be

careful.

13. The Retirement Plan. 7a. SB. Pull

onto the slabby left arête, continue to a

difficult mantleshelf and finish (A sit start

awaits someone). It is best not to look

over your rights shoulder!

14. The Traverse Start. 7a. SB. Traverse

in from the obvious large holds to a very

delicate section (don’t look down) and

continue up the arête.

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9. The Crack. 6b. SB. The crack is difficult to start but eases

quickly.

10. The Left Hand Finish. 6a. SB. Span up and left to the arête.

11. The Slab. 6b/6c?. SB Traverse in from the left , a scary high-

ball that could eject you onto the slope below. This is not the

stroll it looks—Be careful!

11a. The Groove Start. Pull, press, squirm and roll onto the slab

from the groove .

11a

The Shire Bloc

Steve Blake

Finishing his Retirement

Plan

Bob Smith Collection

The Shire Bloc can be climbed easily on it’s backside and slith-

ered down in descent. There is scope for more lines up the

centre of the slab, but it’s pretty tall and the ground below

slopes away sharply!