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Editor’s Letter

12

Emma Cheevers

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Prague

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Tokyo

Vienna

Vilnius

Welcome to London

Let SHOP guide you as you explore London.

Read about Teatum Jones, an exciting women’s

label available at Liberty (page 44), Barnyard,

a recently opened no-bookings restaurant

(page 61), and much more.

SHOP is part of Global Blue, a Tax Free

Shopping market leader, and publishes guides

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ILLU

ST

RAT

ION

: PIN

G Z

HU

Contributors

14

globalblue.com

Katy Young

Katy Young has been a beauty

journalist for more than a decade,

mainly at Harper’s Bazaar

magazine and more recently as

beauty editor of the Telegraph

Online newspaper. For this edition

of SHOP, Katy spoke to the high-

profle perfume expert Jo Malone

for her advice about how to select

the perfect fragrance.

Dominique Fenn

Fashion writer Dominique Fenn

contributed our Wool’s Worth

feature for this edition, which

looks at the high-quality natural

fabric available from British

manufacturers. Dominique

studied fashion journalism at the

London College of Fashion and she

considers London to be the most

exciting city in the world.

ILL

US

TR

AT

ION

: MA

RIc

OR

MA

RIc

AR

MaricorMaricar

Design duo MaricorMaricar

created this season's cover for

SHOP London Style. The

intricate embroidered design

refects our feature on page 44

about the fashion labels that

are proudly using British-made

fabrics. The red, white and

blue stitching represents the

colours of the Union Jack fag.

MaricorMaricar has stitched

artwork for Toms and Wired

Magazine UK among others.

Read more about our cover

illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.

Our commitment to value means that we match the prices of high street competitors (this excludes online-only or mail order businesses). Service conditions must be comparable. See our ‘Never Knowingly Undersold’ leafet in our shops or online for details.

DISCOVERA WORLD OF BEAUTY

At John Lewis Oxford Street

we've got all the make-up

and beauty tools you need

to create your perfect look.

Shop Floor

16

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every

care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after

publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide.

All rights reserved. ©2014 Global Blue

E DI TOR I A L

Editor-in-chiefEmma Cheevers

Managing editor Sally McIlhone

Cover illustratorMaricorMaricar

ContributorsDominique Fenn, Katy Young

Production editorCaterina Mazzolai

Assistant production editorRuairidh Pritchard

Features editorStephen Doig

City guide and lifestyle editorVerity Hogan

Acting fashion editorXimena Daneri

Acting news editorHannah Lewis

Associate news and lifestyle editorIsabella Redmond Styles

Assistant fashion and news editorGemma Latham

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PU BL I SH I NG

PublisherJames Morris

Contents

18

Produc ts

20 Check Out

sHoP selects a standout piece

from London this season

24 My Favourites

shoe designer Liam Fahy

reveals his top tips for

autumn/winter 2014/15

26 Products

Key looks for the season,

from fashion and footwear

to jewellery and accessories

32 Street Style

our pick of the city’s best

dressed during London

Fashion Week

N e Ws

35 Shop Window

one store not to be missed

in London

36 News

seasonal updates on shops,

services and new products

42 In Store …

… with Lulu roper-caldbeck

in her boutique, darkroom

F e At u r e s

44 Cover Story: Wool’s Worth

From Prada to Paul smith,

leading international fashion

houses are sourcing their

natural fabrics in Britain,

dominique Fenn reports

52 Ask The Expert: Jo Malone

What should you look for

when selecting a fragrance?

Jo Malone reveals the secrets

to Katy Young

e x Pe r i e Nce

60 Table Talk

London’s no-reservations

restaurants are among the

most popular in the city.

Verity Hogan joins the crowds

at some of the best

ci t Y Gu i de

69 Maps and guides to the key

shopping areas of London

84 My Neighbourhood

chef Vivek singh takes

sHoP on a tour of south-

east London and of his other

favourite places in the city

e sse N t i A L s

88 How To Shop Tax Free

the simple steps to saving

money on your shopping

t r A NsL At ioNs

92 Русский Перевод

96 美文翻译

103

sou V e N i r

104 the essential item to

bring home

Check Out

Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 88

see why, with such cheerful and

charming creations. This playful,

train-shaped clutch is a conversa-

tion starter, featuring a quirky cut-

out shape and eye-catching gold

details. Made from high-quality

navy blue and patent black leather,

the bag is sure to see you through

the party season in style. gl

Kate Spade All Aboard Train

clutch, £285,

Kate Spade,

1-4 Langley Court,

London WC2E 9JY,

+44 (0)20 7836 3988,

katespade.com

ON THE RIGHT TRACK

When former accessories editor

Kate Spade was unable to fnd

an ideal handbag, she took on the

project of designing one herself.

Following this success, she devel-

oped a line of accessories in dis-

tinctively simple styles combining

fun prints and bold colours. The

Kate Spade brand is now popular

around the world, with stores on

every continent, and it’s easy to

20 | PRODUC TS

London & surrounding areas:

Bicester Village / Bluewater / Cambridge /

Covent Garden / Gatwick North & South /

Heathrow T1, T2 & T5 / Knightsbridge

Manchester New Cathedral Street / Regent Street

South Molton Street / Westfeld

TEDBAKER.COM

TEDBAKERBLOG.COM

#TAKETHELEAD

#TEDBAKERAW14

OXFORD STREET, LONDON...ACCESSORIZE / ADIDAS / ALDO

BHS / BOOTS / BURTONS

CARPHONE WAREHOUSE / CLAIRE’S

CLARKS / CURRY’S PC WORLD

DEBENHAMS / DISNEY STORE

DOROTHY PERKINS / EVANS

FOREVER 21 / FRENCH CONNECTION

GAP / G-STAR RAW / HMV

HOUSE OF FRASER / H&M

JOHN LEWIS / MANGO MISS SELFRIDGE / MONSOON

MOTHERCARE / M&S / NEW LOOK

NEXT / NIKE / OFFICE / PANDORA

PRIMARK / RIVER ISLAND

RUSSELL & BROMLEY / SCHUH

SELFRIDGES / SUNGLASS HUT

SWAROVSKI / SWATCH / TIGER TOPMAN / TOPSHOP / UNIQLO

URBAN OUTFITTERS / WALLIS

WAREHOUSE / WATERSTONES / ZARA...

LONDONSHOPPINGIT ALLSTARTSHERE

Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 88

London-based shoe designer Liam Fahy

collaborates with the fnest Italian artisans

to create luxurious footwear for women.

Liam’s shoes can be identifed by the signature

nickel-embellished soles, and his original ideas

and exacting eye won him a British Fashion

Council Newgen award. Here he shares some

of his favourite brands, stores

and designers with Gemma Latham

MY FAVOURITES: Liam Fahy

24 | PRODUC TS

1. ‘I don’t really have a signature fragrance, but I like Penhaligon’s packaging’

Penhaligon’s Bayolea

eau de toilette,

100ml, £85, Penhaligon’s, 41 Wellington Street, London WC2E 7BN, +44 (0)20 7836 2150, penhaligons.com

2. ‘My Lula shoes are classic, elegant and seasonless. They look simple but we spent months making sure the pattern and height was just right on the foot’

Liam Fahy Lula shoes,

£375, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road, London SW1X 7XL, +44 (0)20 7730 1234, liamfahy.com

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SHOP | 25

4. ‘There’s a great store just of Oxford Street called The New Craftsmen that sells handmade British crafts, including one-of items’

The New Craftsmen, 34 North Row, London W1K 6DG, +44 (0)20 7148 3190, thenewcraftsmen.com

5. ‘Conceptual Perspex jewellery from British designer Sarah Angold makes a distinctive souvenir’

Sarah Angold jewellery,

price on request, Fenwick, 63 New Bond Street, London W1S 1RQ, +44 (0)20 7629 9161, sarahangold.com

6. ‘Emma J Shipley’s Polar scarf collection caught my eye this season for the unique hand-illustrated drawings’

Emma J Shipley Aurora

Polar scarf, £280, Liberty, Regent Street, London W1B 5AH, +44 (0)20 7734 1234, emmajshipley.com

4

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26 | PRODUCTS

Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 88

1. Skagen leather backpack, £299,

Skagen, Westfeld Stratford City,

168 The Arcade, Montfchet Road,

Olympic Park, London E20 1EL,

+44 (0)20 8536 0674, skagen.com

2. Filippa K leather gloves, £80,

Liberty, Regent Street,

London W1B 5AH,

+44 (0)20 7734 1234, flippa-k.com

3. Ofce Tyron boots, £79.99,

Ofce, 190 Oxford Street,

London W1D 1NR, +44 (0)20 7255 2410,

ofce.co.uk

4. Diesel jeans, £290,

Diesel, 43 Earlham Street,

London WC2H 9LX,

+44 (0)20 7497 5543, diesel.com

URBAN LIFE

Dressed-down denim is given a sophisticated update

with classic winter checks and leather accessories

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SHOP | 27

globalblue.com

5. Cos hat, £25,

Cos, 222 Regent Street,

London W1B 5BD,

+44 (0)20 7478 0400, cosstores.com

6. Ted Baker coat, £199,

Ted Baker, 9-10 Floral Street,

London WC2E 9HW,

+44 (0)20 7836 7808, tedbaker.com

7. Ben Sherman checked scarf, £40,

Ben Sherman, 50 Carnaby Street,

London W1F 9QA, +44 (0)20 7437 2031,

bensherman.com

8. Triwa Nevil watch, £230,

Article, 90 Kingsland Road,

London E2 8DP,

+44 (0)20 7739 6751, triwa.com

5

6

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28 | PRODUCTS

Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 88

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LONDON

CALLING

Stand out from the

crowd in bright and

bold pillar-box red

1. Ludwig Reiter boots, £579,

Ludwig Reiter, 6 Brook Street,

London W1S 1BB, +44 (0)20 3302 3421,

ludwig-reiter.com

2. Eric Bompard scarf, £95,

Eric Bompard, 29 Kings Road,

London SW3 4RP, +44 (0)20 7730 9826,

eric-bompard.com

3. Adolfo Dominguez jacket, £249,

Adolfo Dominguez, 15 Endell Street,

London WC2H 9BJ, +44 (0)20 7836 5013,

adolfodominguez.com

4. Jimmy Choo special-edition bag, £595,

Jimmy Choo, 27 New Bond Street,

London W1S 2RH, +44 (0)20 7493 5858,

jimmychoo.com

2

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30 | PRODUCTS

Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 88

1. Hobbs dress, £349,

Hobbs, 112-115 Long Acre,

London WC2E 9PA,

+44 (0)20 7836 0625, hobbs.co.uk

2. Links of London watch, £395,

Links of London, 5A The Market,

London WC2 8RF, +44 (0)20 7240 7391,

linksofondon.com

3. Accessorize scarf, £25,

Accessorize, 386 Oxford Street,

London W1N 9HE, +44 (0)20 7491 9424,

accessorize.com

4. Folli Follie necklace, £110,

Folli Follie, 124 Regent Street,

London W1B 5SB, +44 (0)20 7287 9912,

follifollie.com

FREE SPIRIT

Combine prints and textures in autumnal

tones to exude bohemian elegance

1

2

3

4

Find your nearest Camper Store at camper.com

39 Floral St. / 34 Shelton St. / 28 Old Bond St. / 5-7 Fouberts Place409 Oxford St. / 207-209 Regent St. / Westfield Shopping Centre

Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 88

Street Style

Spacious envelope clutches and convenient cross-body bags are staple items at London Fashion Week, and should be a part of any wardrobe

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globalblue.com

SHOP | 33

Now delivering worldwide to over 50 countries, visit hobbs.com for further information

HOBBS FLAGSHIP STORE

112-115 LONG ACRE | LONDON | WC2E 9PA

HOBBS.COM

NEWS | 35

Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 88

Shop Window

GENTLEMEN’S CLUB

British tailor Aquascutum, which

has more than 160 years of exper-

tise, has opened a new menswear

store on Jermyn Street. The compa-

ny’s founder John Emary was a pio-

neer of waterproof fabric, and it’s no

surprise that Aquascutum’s stylish

and elegant yet practical raincoats

proved popular with the British

public. This boutique, designed

by AMD Interior Architecture,

has the feel of a modern gentle-

men’s club, with marbled fooring,

wooden cabinets, retro chairs and

a snooker table. For exquisitely

crafted outerwear, casual clothing

and luxury tailoring, Aquascutum

still provides quintessential British

style, informed by the skill it has

been developing since 1851. gl

Aquascutum,

78-79 Jermyn Street,

London SW1Y 6NP,

+44 (0)20 3096 1865,

aquascutum.co.uk

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36 | NEWS

Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 88

IMMERSE YOURSELF

Situated in an historic building,

the Clerkenwell Collection ofers an

unorthodox approach to retail. Visi-

tors can discover an eclectic selec-

tion including men’s fashion, fur-

niture, jewellery and artwork from

brands which believe that good

craftsmanship requires the luxury

of time. A unique store that houses

within its walls a gallery space, tai-

loring studio, tasting bar and spa,

the Clerkenwell Collection gives

visitors the ideal opportunity to lose

themselves for a while. gl

The Clerkenwell Collection,

155 Farringdon Road,

London EC1R 3AD,

+44 (0)20 3675 8847,

theclerkenwellcollection.com

DANISH DESIGNS

Danish brand Designers Remix

is one of Copenhagen’s most excit-

ing exports. Producing beautiful

womenswear informed by mini-

malism and architectural forms,

the brand presents a modern and

refned take on Scandinavian style.

Designers Remix is currently ex-

panding around the globe and can

be found in Selfridges. hl

Selfridges, 400 Oxford Street,

London W1A 1AB,

0800 123400 (UK),

+44 (0)113 369 8040

(international),

designersremix.com

* for map go to page 77

globalblue.com

MAKE A SPLASH

For those planning a trip to

warmer countries, or who want to

look stylish by the pool, Vilebre-

quin has opened a new boutique

close to London’s famous Por-

tobello Road market. Created in

St Tropez in 1971, Vilebrequin is

one of the world’s premier luxury

swimwear brands, and every water

lover should own one of its swim-

suits, which are available for men,

women and children in a delightful

varety of colours and prints. irs

Vilebrequin,

57 Ledbury Road,

London W11 2AA,

+44 (0)20 7792 5148,

vilebrequin.com

SHOP | 37

THE BEST AT BENTALLS

Located in the leafy Royal Borough

of Kingston Upon Thames, and

close to central London, Bentalls

department store is well worth vis-

iting. Bentalls can be reached by

train from Waterloo station and

once there, you’ll fnd an impressive

range of clothing as well as beauty

items and homewares. Look out for

the recently expanded handbag de-

partment which includes items by

Mulberry, Michael Kors, Joules and

Marc by Marc Jacobs. irs

Bentalls,

Wood Street,

Kingston Upon Thames,

Surrey KT1 1TX,

+44 (0)20 8546 1001,

bentalls.co.uk

38 | NEWS

Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 88

NEW KNITS

Central Saint Martins knit-

wear graduate Alice Ashby honed

her skills at New York label Rag &

Bone before establishing her own

label, Blake Ldn, in 2012. Her vi-

sion was to create contemporary

knitwear using traditional meth-

ods, sourcing the fnest yarns from

around the world and manufactur-

ing in Britain. The autumn/winter

collection uses contrasting colours

to achieve a panelled efect. Cut

outs, oversized funnel necks and

chunky ribbing patterns create dis-

tinctive pieces that are as comfort-

able as they are stylish, challenging

knitwear as we know it. Discover

the brand at the delightful Viola

boutique on Connaught Street. gl

Viola,

25 Connaught Street,

London W2 2AY,

+44 (0)20 7262 2722,

blake-ldn.com

SHOP THE WORLD

Using our wealth of insider knowledge,

we have created a smartphone app to

help you to plan your trip. The app gives

information on 45 cities in 22 countries

– thousands of stores are listed and

located on maps, with full contact details

and a description of what each store

sells. Our maps guide you right to the

store and can also be downloaded for

offline use allowing you to create your

own itinerary. You can also sign up for

the GB card and, once logged in, the

My Tax refund wallet becomes available

allowing you to track pending refunds.

The app is available in Chinese, English

and Russian, and includes a Tax Refund

Calculator to tell you how much you’ll

save on every purchase you make in every

different country you visit. There are also

instructions on how to use Currency

Choice, our service that allows you to pay

in your home currency.

globalblue.com

Download the Global Blue guide

from the App Store or Play Store

LONDON | 49 Jermyn Street | Tel. +44 207 629 2495

| 28 Sloane Square | Tel. +44 207 823 5044

40 | NEWS

Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 88

HIGH FASHION

Playing with the idea of ev-

eryday couture, designer Claire

Campbell established her label

High as a middle ground between

bespoke and ready-to-wear fash-

ion, and as a link between formal

and casual dressing. Focusing

on design, quality and utility,

Campbell’s designs are exquisitely

well made without being fussy, and

provide a seasonless wardrobe for

modern women. Her simple but

A STEP AHEAD

Mr Hare, a London-based com-

pany which brings a new and very

trendy lease of life to classic men’s

shoes, has opened a new store in

Notting Hill. The brand, whose

footwear is designed in Britain and

beautiful clothing is created with

soft fabrics and features traditional

techniques such as hand-stitch-

ing. In the London fagship store,

visitors can browse pieces from

Campbell’s tailored line, High, and

her casual line, High Use, in a calm

and elegant environment which

has been designed to refect the

label’s aesthetic. hl

High,

107 New Bond Street,

London W1S 1ED,

+44 (0)20 7495 2595,

high-everydaycouture.com

made in Italy, already has a store in

Mayfair and the boutique on West-

bourne Grove is certain to attract

equally stylish customers. irs

Mr Hare,

178A Westbourne Grove,

London W11 2RH,

+44 (0)20 7221 4025,

mrhare.com

Founded 1798

BY APPOINTMENT TO

HER MAJESTY THE QUEEN

PHARMACISTS

JOHN BELL & CROYDEN LIMITED

LONDON

Wellbeing Emporium & Pharmacy

42 | NEWS

Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 88

In Store: Darkroom

‘Lulu’s background is in fashion

and Rhonda’s is in interiors and

graphic design. We wanted to de-

sign our own ranges, and opening

a shop seemed the perfect way to

showcase them. From the outset

we knew the store had to merge

fashion and interiors and would be

a combination of our own pieces

alongside a carefully curated mix

of items by other designers whose

work we admire. Other stores at

the time seemed very clean and

minimal, focusing a lot on mid-

century modern design. Our plan

was to create something very dif-

ferent – something bolder, brighter

and much more full-on – and we

opened Darkroom fve years ago.

‘We knew this area already and

while there were a few shops here,

it was relatively unknown and

afordable, while being easily ac-

cessible to central London and full

of character. The same landlords

have owned the shops on the street

for generations and have tried to

ensure it remains an independent

shopping destination.

‘We had a clear vision of how

we wanted the space to look, but

as we had a very limited budget,

we designed the shop ourselves

and got stuck in with all the messy

work such as clearing the space,

painting and laying foors.

‘It is ideal as it’s on a corner

and has a large shop front and win-

dow where we can create diferent

displays and installations. The

shop foor has nothing permanent

or built in – this fexibility is vital

as it has given us the chance

to continuously evolve within

the space.

‘All of our own designs are

exclusive to this store, as are many

other items. We work closely with

our suppliers and quite often

commission pieces to ft in with

the store. When selecting pieces

to buy, we try to avoid the bigger

trade shows but instead go to the

smaller, more unusual ones. We

also look online and in magazines,

go to graduate shows and travel

for inspiration.’

Darkroom,

52 Lamb’s Conduit Street,

London WC1N 3LL,

+44 (0)20 7831 7244,

darkroomlondon.com

Located in Bloomsbury, Darkroom is an independent boutique founded by Lulu Roper-Caldbeck and her friend Rhonda Drakeford. Ximena Daneri met met the duo in the eclectic store

N E WS | 43

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SHOP | 45

Opposite: Teatum Jones autumn/winter 2014/15/92 98

103

From Prada to Paul Smith, leading international fashion houses are sourcing their natural fabrics

in Britain, Dominique Fenn reports

One hundred years ago, it wasn’t

London that infuenced interna-

tional fashion, but a city in the

north of England. Bradford was

at the heart of the British manu-

facturing industry and was recog-

nised as the global capital for wool,

with hundreds of factories in the

surrounding area. One of the rea-

sons for Bradford’s dominance

in this sector was because of the

availability of soft water, which was

used to clean the wool.

Over the years, the num-

ber of working factories (also

known as mills) has decreased

46 | FEATURES

Above (from top): inspecting the fabric at Luxury Fabrics’ mill in Bradford, circa 1970s; fabric with a ‘made in England’ label on the loom at Luxury Fabrics

signifcantly, with only a handful

still in existence. Yet many of the

skills that were learned have been

passed down through the genera-

tions and are still invaluable to this

competitive industry, despite de-

velopments with machinery.

The Woolmark Company, the

world’s leading wool textile organ-

isation, recently celebrated its 50th

anniversary. It has been working

to support young designers and

to raise awareness of the skills

available in British manufacturing.

The International Woolmark Prize PH

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SHOP | 47

Above: Sibling, winner of the International Woolmark Prize 2013/14

Teatum Jones joins a long list of UK and international interiors and fashion labels that are putting their trust in British factories

is quickly becoming one of the

most coveted designer awards;

previous winners include British

label Sibling and Belgian designer

Christian Wijnants.

Launched three years ago,

Woolmark’s Loom to London ini-

tiative introduces young design-

ers to the manufacturing options

in this country. One such label

is Teatum Jones, a luxury wom-

enswear brand based in London.

Now in its third year, Teatum Jones

is celebrated for its beautiful prints

and innovative approach to textiles

48 | FEATURES

Above (from top): Teatum Jones autumn/winter 2014/15; Teatum Jones’ creative directors Rob Jones and Catherine Teatum

development and as a result be-

came the bestselling womenswear

label on the international foor

at Liberty.

With the help of The Wool-

mark Company and British mills,

the company created a 3D-relief

jacquard fabric. ‘We developed

and created this using very new

techniques,’ says designer Rob

Jones, who set up Teatum Jones

with Catherine Teatum. Once

the 3D fabric had been devised,

another mill helped Teatum Jones

50 | FEATURES

Above (lef to right): Dunhill autumn/winter 2014/15; thread reels at Luxury Fabrics, Bradford; Paul Smith autumn/winter 2014/15

to laminate the jacquard with-

out fattening the 3D element

of the fabric.

‘Our passion for making ev-

erything in the UK has come out

of the need to have an authentic re-

lationship with the manufacturers

and mills that we use,’ says Jones.

‘Working on such highly developed

intricate garments and fabrics, it has

become essential to work closely

with each of our suppliers. We are

very lucky to have such highly

skilled craftsmanship right on our

doorstep to be able to do this.’

Teatum Jones joins a long list

of UK and international interiors

and fashion labels that are putting

their trust in British factories, such

as Luxury Fabrics in Bradford:

Prada and Louis Vuitton, for ex-

ample, source certain fabrics from

British factories because of the

expertise and innovation avail-

able here.

Dunhill, the quintessential

British menswear label, has a mod-

ern approach, despite its 100-year

heritage. The company is investing

in a new factory in east London

SHOP | 51

and is a strong supporter of Brit-

ish manufacturers. Paul Smith,

another British label, produces

suits which are coveted around the

world, including in countries with

much hotter climates than the UK,

so the company uses Cool Wool,

a fner, lightweight fabric, made

by Joseph H Clissold in Bradford.

A commitment to meeting the

needs of customers around the

world is why British fabric frms

are so successful. ‘We get all sorts

of requests from clients,’ says Ni-

gel Birch, product development

manager at WT Johnson & Sons,

which dyes and fnishes fabrics for

clients around the globe. ‘We wove

24-carat gold into a fabric for

a £700,000 suit and we fnished

a fabric woven with jade to hope-

fully bring good fortune for a Japa-

nese client. We also had a Scottish

client who wanted their fabrics

laced with whisky – we always try

to fulfl our clients’ requests!’

woolmark.com, teatumjones.com,

dunhill.co.uk, paulsmith.co.uk,

clissold.co.uk,

wtjohnson.co.uk

A commitment to meeting the needs of customers around the world is why British fabric firms are so successful

PH

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52 | FEATURES

Ask The Expert

/94 98 Opposite: Jo Malone

Jo MaloneInspired by her beautician mother, Jo Malone started to make fragrances using fowers when she was a child. She worked as a forist before setting up Jo Malone London, selling her own bath oils, creams and candles. The business went on to establish stores around the globe and in 2011 it was taken over by Estée Lauder. Malone has now launched Jo Loves, a sophisticated line comprising beauty products and items for the home. Here, she divulges her tips on how to shop for perfume with Katy Youngjomalone.co.uk, joloves.com

1 Find your personal taste

‘I think the biggest mistake

we make is buying something that

smells good on someone else; all

of our skin chemistry is diferent,’

says Jo Malone. Avoid being be-

guiled by a friend’s scent as it won’t

emit the same notes on your skin.

‘The trick is to fnd things you like

about your top three fragrances

– there’s often a thread, a note

or a feeling.’ Look at a fragrance

for its characteristics and ask your-

self if it’s light, fresh or warm,

for example.

2 Colour code

Don’t just use your nose to deter-

mine your signature scent, says

Malone. Thinking of a fragrance

in terms of what colour you think

it ties in with is an intuitive and

102

54 | FEATURES

Above (from top): Jo Loves Green Orange & Coriander fragrance; Jo Loves Pink Vetiver bath cologne

nuanced way to hone in on the

scent you’re seeking (Malone says

she picked up this trick as a result

of being dyslexic). ‘In looking for

a fragrance, you should almost

want to think about looking for

what colour you’d like to paint.

For example, towards autumn

and Christmas with various black-

tie events, you might be wearing

something red. Reds translate

into a rich, ruby and heated scent.

Or a beautiful emerald green

might mean coolness like fresh

open gardenia; yellow translates

Different skin types hold perfume on their surfaces in different ways

PH

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56 | FEATURES

Above: Jo Loves Mango Nectar fragrance

as sunshine, light and citrus, and

orange means burnt cinnamon.’

Colour-coding your wardrobe to

your scent can provide an harmo-

nious balance, because often the

shades we wear refect the seasons.

3 Understand skin tones

Take note of your skin colour

before you invest in a fragrance

as diferent skin types hold per-

fume on their surfaces in difer-

ent ways. People with darker skin

tones are more suited to heavier

notes, while those with lighter skin

suit light forals. ‘It’s down to body

chemistry. It even depends on what

we eat. Dark, tanned skins are used

to being exposed to the sun and of-

ten contain more oil, which can af-

fect fragrance hugely.’

4 Don’t rush

Time and space are needed when

selecting a perfume. ‘Choose four

or fve fragrances maximum, and

then take a break and breathe in cof-

fee beans or lemon sorbet to clear

your nose,’ says Malone, noting that

premium fragrance labels should

at least have cofee beans to hand.

For the best indication of how

a fragrance will smell on you, spray

testers on your skin. Narrow your

choice to three and come back the

next day to make your decision.

PH

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ECCO Kensington - 102 Kensington High Street

W8 4SG London - +44 207 938 25 83

ECCO Oxford Circus - 261 Oxford Street, WC1 2DE London

ECCO Knightsbr idge - 45 Brompton RoadSW3 1DE London - +44 207 584 57 37

ECCO Covent Garden - 36 Long Acre - WC2E 9JT London - +44 207 379 51 45

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S C A N D I N A V I A N

D E S I G N F O R E V E R Y O N E

58 | FEATURES

Above (from top): Jo Loves new London store on Elizabeth Street; Jo Loves fragrance bar in the new London store

5 Seasonal scents

Select fragrances for diferent

times of the year. ‘If you like chy-

pre in the summer, stick to oaks

and mosses in winter – you’ll like

the woody, spicy notes in win-

ter, and those leather notes,’ says

Malone. ‘If you like something like

Annick Goutal’s Passion for in-

stance, which is known for its sweet

vanilla and jasmine notes, stick

to something sweet but with am-

ber foral notes – your preference

is that you need something with

a honey note in it. Similarly, if you

like heady rich forals, go for night

jasmine.’ Malone also says that

how the scent is used can be varied

according to the seasons: ‘In win-

ter, I love to spray it on my big roll-

neck cashmere sweaters or onto

a large cashmere scarf.’ PH

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: © A

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globalblue.com

60 | EXPER IENCE

The most exciting restaurants in

London are setting themselves

apart by not taking bookings, lead-

ing to a host of eateries with an im-

promptu, casual feel, similar to the

laid-back style of Mediterranean

tapas bars. as the trend continues

to grow among the capital’s inde-

pendent restaurants, ‘no reserva-

tions’ is quickly becoming associ-

ated with the next big thing.

The practice allows smaller res-

taurants to open and stay in busi-

ness while also bringing a touch of

democracy to dining out. These

places are perfect for those who are

spontaneous and who want to de-

cide where to eat at the last minute.

The most popular no-reservations

restaurants quickly become de-

fned by the length of their queues

but the food is well worth the wait.

Table Talk

London’s no-reservations restaurants

are among the most popular in the

city, serving gourmet fast food in

unique settings and attracting loyal

followings. Verity Hogan joins the

crowds at some of the best

SHOP | 61

B a r n y a r d

Ollie dabbous’ latest venture ofers

wholesome, home-cooked dishes

in a relaxed, rustic setting. The

dining room décor has an agricul-

tural theme, featuring reclaimed

timber and corrugated tin, while

menu options include sausage rolls

with piccalilli and beef on toast

with warm horseradish buttermilk.

The drinks and dessert selection is

sure to have wide-ranging appeal;

the apple and cloudberry crumble

with clotted cream is a typical pud-

ding while the Hedgerow Shandy

cocktail, with its mix of sloe gin, ci-

der, pink grapefruit and tonic, pro-

vides a refreshing accompaniment

to the hearty food on ofer.

Barnyard,

18 Charlotte Street,

London W1T 2LZ,

+44 (0)20 7580 3842,

barnyard-london.com

62 | EXPER IENCE

globalblue.com

C h i C k e n S h o p

Fried chicken becomes fne-dining

fare at Chicken Shop’s intimate

kentish Town branch. This low-lit

basement restaurant contrasts with

typical brightly lit fast-food eater-

ies while all of the chicken served

is reared free range at Banham’s

Farm in norfolk. Diners can order

a whole, half or quarter chicken,

blackened to perfection with just

the right amount of spice. Side or-

ders are similarly tempting, rang-

ing from crinkle-cut fries with a

generous helping of garlic aioli

to corn on the cob smothered in

garlic and coriander butter. Be sure

to order a locally brewed pint of

Camden pale Ale with your

meal – it’s a perfect match for the

chicken’s intense favours.

Chicken Shop,

79 highgate Road,

London nW5 1TL,

+44 (0)20 3310 2020,

chickenshop.com

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EXPER IENCE | 65

globalblue.com

B u r g e r & L o B s t e r

As its name suggests, Burger &

Lobster serves burgers and lobster;

in fact, the menu options are limited

to a beef burger, grilled or steamed

lobster, and a lobster brioche roll.

Whole lobsters are served with a

rich lemon and garlic-drawn but-

ter while burgers are made from

the fnest grass-fed Irish and corn-

fed Nebraskan beef. Main meals

are served with chips and salad

while diners can choose between a

chocolate or lime mousse for des-

sert. the dining room has a relaxed

atmosphere with seating divided

between banquettes and high stools

while the reliably friendly service

also helps to set the scene.

Burger & Lobster,

29 Clarges street,

London W1J 7eF,

+44 (0)20 7409 1699,

burgerandlobster.com

66 | EXPER IENCE

globalblue.com

P i t t C u e C o

Visitors will almost certainly need

to wait in line to enjoy Pitt Cue

Co’s perfectly smoked meat, but

they will be well rewarded. the

dishes are faultlessly executed,

from the sticky St Louis pork ribs

with crunchy pickle side to the

richly sauced beef brisket. the in-

tense favour of the meat is created

by dry rubbing with sugar, spice

and mustard glaze before it is dry

smoked for fve hours and slowly

roasted on hickory chips. the low

lighting and stripped-back décor

creates an intimate atmosphere;

head to the restaurant’s bar area

while you wait for a table to enjoy

homemade pork scratchings and

bourbon-based cocktails.

Pitt Cue Co,

1 Newburgh Street,

London W1F 7RB,

pittcue.co.uk

B u B B L e d o g S

With its unusual yet winning

combination of Champagne and

hot dogs, Bubbledogs has become

one of London’s evening hotspots.

Pork, beef and vegetarian hot dogs

are ofered with various toppings;

options range from the New York-

er with its grilled sauerkraut to the

Sloppy Joe made with beef chilli,

Cheddar cheese and chopped on-

ions. Champagne is available by

the glass or bottle and is sourced

from small producers to ensure a

distinctive taste. Be sure to order

a side of potato tots (croquettes)

or sweet potato fries which are

perfect partners for a chilled glass

of Champagne.

Bubbledogs,

70 Charlotte Street,

London W1t 4Qg,

+44 (0)20 7637 7760,

bubbledogs.co.uk

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VANS STORES:

47 Carnaby Street / Westfeld London – ground foor

191-209 Camden High Street / Westfeld Stratford – ground foor

A V A N S D O C U M E N T A R Y S E R I E S

moveyour lee

Let’s celebrate 125 years of denim expertise

STORES IN LONDON

COVENT GARDEN, 35 NEAL STREETWESTFIELD SHOPPING CENTER, SHEPARDS BUSH

Guide

GUIDE | 69

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Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most

of your trip to London with a look at the city’s

must-visit destinations, from the fnest chocolate

shops to the best Covent Garden boutiques. Start

with SHOP’s highlights before delving deeper

with expert guidance from our well-travelled team.

For more helpful hints and detailed city guides,

check out globalblue.com/london.

A GLimPSe OF LOndOn

The Thames is one of London’s most famous

attractions; take a cruise to see the sights or visit one

of the many bars and restaurants on the Southbank

ofering riverside views.

globalblue.com

70 | GUIDE

London

BROMPTON R

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BAYSWATER RD

S USSEX GARDENS

HARROW RD

FULHAM

RD

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RD

KENSINGTON RD

PONT ST.

The LongWater

The Serpentine

EDG

WARE RD

P

RAED ST.

MARBLE ARCH

EDGWARE ROAD

EDGWARE ROAD

MARYLEBONEBAKER

STREET

KNIGHTSBRIDGE

SLOANE SQUARE

SOUTHKENSINGTON

VICTORIA & ALBERT

MUSEUM

SERPENTINE GALLERY

HYDE PARK

1 Barnyard

Enjoy a menu of homespun

cuisine served in an appropriately

rustic setting at Barnyard.

18 Charlotte Street, London W1T 2LZ, +44 (0)20 7580 3842, barnyard-london.com

* featured on page 61

2 Dunhill

Admire the British manufacturing

processes used in Dunhill’s

modern menswear collections.

2 Davies Street, London W1K 3DJ, +44 (0)20 7853 4440,dunhill.co.uk

* featured on page 44

3 Selfridges Chocolate Library

Visitors with a sweet tooth will

be spoilt for choice with the

extensive selection at Selfridges

Chocolate Library.

400 Oxford Street, London W1A 1AB, 0800 123400 (UK), +44 (0)113 369 8040 (international), selfridges.com

* featured on page 77

4 Aquascutum

The new menswear store by

British tailors Aquascutum has

been designed to resemble a

modern gentlemen’s club and

even features a snooker table.

78-79 Jermyn Street, London SW1Y 6NP, +44 (0)20 3096 1865, aquascutum.co.uk

* featured on page 35

SHOP’S HIGHLIGHTS

page

77

Place Of Interest Train Station

SHOP | 71

NE

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VAUXHALL BRIDGE RD

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VICTOR IA ST.

PICC ADIL

LY

ALDWYCH

LAMBETH ROAD

STRAND

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PALL MALL

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SBURY AVE .

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HIGH HOLBORN

THEOBOLD’S RD

WH

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OXFORD ST.

KIN

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WA

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JERMYN ST.

COVENTGARDEN

LEICESTERSQUARE

PICCADILLYCIRCUS

OXFORD CIRCUS

TOTTENHAMCOURT ROAD

HOLBORN

BOND STREET

GOODGE STREET

GREEN PARKEMBANKMENT

TEMPLE

HYDE PARK CORNER

VICTORIA

ST. JAMES PARK

PIMLICO

WESTMINSTER

WATERLOO

CHARINGCROSS

BUCKINGHAM

PALACEAPSLEY HOUSE

WESTMINSTER

ABBEY

BIG BEN

TATE GALLERY

LONDON EYE

NATIONAL

THEATRE

BRITISH

MUSEUM

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London Underground Station

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72 | GUIDE

Oxford Street (North)

EA

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NO

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MARKET PL .

D’A

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WELLS STREET

BERWICK ST.

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WATERSTONES ●

THE PERFUME SHOP ●ACCESSORIZE ●

MOSS ●

ESPRIT ●

AMERICAN APPAREL ●

SPORTS DIRECT ●

JEANS WEST ●

DUNE ●

UNIQLO ●

H&M ●

ALDO ●OFFICE ●

RUSSELL &BROMLEY ●

● RETRO LONDON● JESSOPS● SWAROVSKI● COOLWAY● THE ORANGE SHOP● FLIGHT CENTRE

● H. SAMUEL

● MARKS & SPENCER

VERO MODA/● JACK & JONES

● MUJI

● BOOTS

● PHONES 4 U

● NEXT

● NEW LOOK

● RIVER ISLAND

● ZARASCHUH ●

THE PHOTOGRAPHERS

GALLERY

The Plaza NUDIE JEANS ●

WEEKEND

OFFENDER ●

FOOT PATROL ●

Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer

Place Of Interest

Shopping Centre/Mall

1. Jamaica Patty Co

Bringing authentic Jamaican cuisine to

central London, Jamaica Patty Co serves

freshly baked patties flled with jerk

chicken, prawns, curried goat or saltfsh

and ackee. Be sure to try the Tortuga rum

cake for dessert.

Jamaica Patty Co, 26 New Row, London WC2N 4LA, jamaicapatty.co.uk

* for map go to page 00

2. Yard Sale Pizza

The handmade, stone-baked pizzas from

Yard Sale Pizza have a distinctive favour

and come in generous portion sizes,

attracting hipster customers. Choose the

Full House version to enjoy toppings of

pepperoni, fennel sausage, spicy ground

beef, black olives, mixed peppers and

1. Jamaica Patty Co

Bringing authentic Jamaican cuisine to

central London, Jamaica Patty Co serves

freshly baked patties flled with jerk

chicken, prawns, curried goat or saltfsh

and ackee. Be sure to try the Tortuga rum

cake for dessert.

Jamaica Patty Co, 26 New Row, London WC2N 4LA, jamaicapatty.co.uk

2. Yard Sale Pizza

The handmade, stone-baked pizzas

available from Yard Sale Pizza have a

distinctive favour and come in generous

portion sizes, attracting a varied clientele.

Choose the Full House pizza to enjoy

toppings of pepperoni, fennel sausage,

spicy ground beef, black olives, mixed

peppers and mushrooms.

Yard Sale Pizza, 105 Lower Clapton Road, London E5 0NP, +44 (0)20 3602 9090, yardsalepizza.com

3. The Bayou

The Bayou is London’s frst all-day Creole

restaurant and serves favourful dishes

that combine cuisine from the US southern

states with French, Spanish, Italian and

African infuences. Dishes range from

juicy ribs and crispy buttermilk chicken

to a hearty crayfsh gumbo which is

perfect when accompanied by a

Bourbon-based cocktail.

The Bayou, 20 Inverness Street, London NW1 7HJ, +44 (0)20 7284 0989, thebayoucamden.com

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74 | GUIDE

La Porte des Indes

La Porte des Indes (Gateway to

India) transports diners to the

distinctive Pondicherry region

of India as soon as they step

through the door. the din-

ing room is spectacular: set in

a former edwardian ballroom,

the space features an array of

artefacts, a marble staircase

and 12-metre-high waterfall.

the best way to try the cuisine

is to order a thali, compris-

ing a number of small dishes.

options range from sautéed

green okra with tomatoes and

onion to a spiced seafood stew.

La Porte des Indes,

32 Bryanston street,

London W1H 7eG,

+44 (0)20 7224 0055,

laportedesindes.com

Oxford Street (Central)

JOHN PRINCE'S ST.

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WELBECK STREET

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WELBECK STREET

VE RE ST.

NEW BOND STREET

BR

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REGENT STREET REGENT STREET

GREAT PORTLAND STREET

OX

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OX

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WIG

MO

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OXFORD CIRCUS

Bureau De Change

JO MALONE ●

LINKS OFLONDON ●

MISS SELFRIDGE ●

TOPSHOP / TOPMAN ●

NIKETOWN ●

H&M ●

ZARA ●

H. SAMUEL ●

CLARKS ●

WAREHOUSE ●

GEOX ●

THE BODY SHOP ●

COAST ●

FOSSIL ●

SUNGLASS HUT ●

THE DISNEY STORE ●

● MANGO

● GAP● BUREAU DE CHANGE

● TEZENIS

● BENETTON

● PANDORA

● ECCO

● VISION EXPRESS

● JD SPORTS

● ERNEST JONES

● SALVATION FOOT

● CARPISA

● EE

● ACCESSORIZE

● TIE RACK

● MOSS

● RIVER ISLAND

● ALDO

● UNIQLO

● SWATCH

● PULL & BEAR

● MASSIMO DUTTI

● SWAROVSKI

● NEXT

● ZARA

● THORNTONS

HanoverSquare

CavendishSquare

Gardens

HANDEL HOUSEMUSEUM

● BERSHKAURBAN OUTFITTERS ●

House Of Fraser

Debenhams

John Lewis

BHS

Meat Liquor

BROWNS ● FOCUS

Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer Department Store

RestaurantGlobal Blue Refund Ofce London Underground Station

11B, King Street

WC2E 8HN

228, Westbourne Grove

W11 2RH

225, Regent Street

W1B 2ER

LONDON

7forallmankind.com

SHOP | 77

Oxford Street (South)

JAMES STREET

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PARK STREET

PORTMAN ST.

ORCHARD ST. NORTH AUDLEY ST.

OX

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DUKE STREET

PARK LANE

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MARBLE ARCH

BOND STREET

JOHN BELL ●& CROYDEN

SONY

● CENTRE

SUNGLASS HUT ●

FOREVER 21 ●

H&M ●INTIMISSI ●

SPRING STORE ●THE BODY SHOP ●

GAP ●

ACCESSORIZE ●

JANE NORMAN ●

FRENCH CONNECTION ●

MARKS & SPENCER ●

SCHUH ●

VODAFONE ●

CLARKS ●

LA SENZA ●

CLAIRE’S ●

DUNE ●

RUSSELL & BROMLEY ●

MONSOON ●

NEW LOOK ●

NEXT ●

SUPERDRUG ●

BOOTS ●

ANN SUMMERS ●

HOLLAND & BARRETT ●

MOTHERCARE ●

GEOX ●

WALLIS ●

TOPSHOP ●

● BOOTS● HMV

BUREAU● DE CHANGE

● OMEGA

DOROTHY PERKINS/● BURTON

● BOOTS● RUSSELL & BROMLEY

● CARPHONE WAREHOUSE

● CAMPER

● SWAROVSKIWATCHES OF ● SWITZERLAND

● ADIDAS

● WATERSTONES

● 3

● THE PERFUME SHOP

● THE HOUR PASSION

● ARABIAN OUD

● ZARA

● PANDORA

● BERSHKA

● RIVER ISLAND

● URBAN OUTFITTERS

● PRIMARK

● BASICS

West One Centre

Selfridges

PHASE EIGHT ●

● EVANS

VIVIENNE ● WESTWOOD

PENELOPE CHILVERS ●

Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer

London Underground Station

Shopping Centre/Mall

Department Store

1. Selfridges Chocolate Library

Stocking more than 400 varieties

of chocolate from over 50 brands,

the choice at Selfridges Chocolate

Library is extensive.

Selfridges, 400 Oxford Street, London W1A 1AB, 0800 123400 (UK), +44 (0)113 369 8040 (international), selfridges.com

2. Paul A Young

Artisan chocolatier Paul A Young is

famous for his innovative approach

and ability to balance daring favour

combinations. Chocolates are guaran-

teed to be fresh and favourful.

Paul A Young,143 Wardour Street, London W1F 8WA, +44 (0)20 7437 0011, paulayoung.co.uk

3. Charbonnel et Walker

Illustrious chocolate maker

Charbonnel et Walker has a

prestigious range of chocolates,

handmade from traditional recipes.

Charbonnel et Walker, One The Royal Arcade, 28 Old Bond Street, London W1S 4BT, +44 (0)20 7491 0939, charbonnel.co.uk

BEST CHOCOLATE SHOPS

2

Featured In This Issue

P.36

78 | GUIDE

Regent Street & Carnaby Street

HANOVER STREET

MA

RS

HA

LL

ST

RE

ET

BEAK ST.

LO

WE

R JA

ME

S S

TR

EE

T

LO

WE

R JO

HN

ST

RE

ET

RE

GE

NT

ST

RE

ET

RE

GE

NT

ST

RE

ET

OXFORD STREET

GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET

CA

RN

AB

Y S

TR

EE

T

MADDOX STREET

SA

VIL

E R

OW

VIG

O S

TR

EE

T

BREWER STREET

C

ONDUIT STREET

OXFORD CIRCUS

THE MAKEUP STORE ●

SIZE? ●IRREGULAR CHOICE ●

GOLA ●MUJI ●

EL GANSO●

WESC ●

REPLAY ●HILFIGER

DENIM ●

VANS ●

HENRI LLOYD ●

BEN SHERMAN ●LEVI’S ●

PUMA ●SOCCER SCENE ●

PRETTY GREEN ●

● MISS SIXTY

● FORNARINA● LAMBRETTA● PYLONES● PEPE JEANS● DIESEL● THE KOOPLES

● STORM

● OFFICE● DAVID AND GOLIATH● LEE● G-STAR RAW● MERC

● MUJI● HUGO BOSS

● THE NORTH FACE

● BOOTS

● AMERICAN APPAREL

● EASTPAK

● TEZENISBENETTON ●

● NIKETOWN● TOPSHOP / TOPMAN

H&M ●

LEVI’S ●

FRENCH CONNECTION ●

KAREN MILLEN ●

TED BAKER ●

APPLE STORE ●

LACOSTE ●

LONGCHAMP ●

MOLTON BROWN ●7 FOR ALL

MANKIND ●MICHAEL KORS ●

FURLA ●HOBBS ●

BARKER ● TUMI ●

CAMPER ●KIPLING ●CLARKS ●

CHURCH’S ●

THE PEN SHOP ●

FERRARI ●

GANT ●

BOSE ●

JACK WOLFSKIN ●HAWES & CURTIS ●

T.M. LEWIN ●7 FOR ALL MAN KIND ●

THE EXCHANGE GROUP ●

JCREW ●

CRABTREE &EVELYN ●

L’OCCITANE ●

KARL LAGERFIELD ●

OXFORDS ●

GODIVA ●

SWAROVSKI ●

ZARA HOME ●

PENHALIGON’S ●

TOYWATCH ●

BURBERRY ●

HO

US

E O

F●

HA

NO

VE

R

BANANA

● REPUBLIC

● KIKO● OMEGA● & OTHER STORIES● KIKI MAKEUP

● ACCESSORIZE

● ARMANI EXCHANGE

● ALL SAINTS

● H&M

● COS

● DESIGUAL

● GAP

JUICY● COUTURE

● JAEGER

● HAMLEYS

● HUGO BOSS

● ESPRIT

● LEVI’S● J CREW● REISS

CALVIN KLEIN● JEANS

● GUESS

● ANTHROPOLOGIE

● MASSIMO DUTTI

● BROOKS BROTHERS

● TIMBERLAND

● TOMMY HILFIGER

● MAPPIN & WEBB

● RUSSELL & BROMLEY

● T.M. LEWIN

● FOLLI FOLLIE

● THE BODY SHOP

● ZARA

● MANGO

SWAROVSKI

● CRYSTALLIZED

● SWEATY BETTY● ILLAMASQUA

THE EAST INDIA COMPANY ●

Liber t y

VIVIENNE ● WESTWOOD

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD MAN ●

Department StoreGlobal Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer

London Underground Station

80 | GUIDE

Regent Street & Piccadilly Circus

LO

WE

R R

EG

EN

T S

TR

.

PICCADILLY

REGENT STREET

S

HA

FT

ES

BU

RY

AV

E

BREWER STREET

PICCADILLY CIRCUS

PiccadillyCircus

EX

CE

LL

EN

CE

OF

LO

ND

ON

●

H

AW

ES

& C

UR

TIS

●T

HE

ST

ING

●

BA

RB

OU

R ●

RO

YA

L C

HIN

A S

HO

P ●

PA

RIS

MIK

I ●W

HIT

TAR

D ●

REISS ●

SUPERDRY ●

CLARKS ●

LONDON TEXTILE CO ●

● LILLYWHITES

● AUSTIN REED● VIYELLA

● CHARLES TYRWHITT● MOSS

● UNIQLO● LUSH

● COACHHOLLISTER ●

CA

MP

O M

AR

ZIO

●

HUNTER ●● NESPRESSO

● LOTUS● WOLFORD

OSPREY ●

Non-Global Blue Retailer London Underground StationGlobal Blue Retailer

1. Pace Gallery

Contemporary art gallery Pace is known

for featuring exhibitions by some of the

most signifcant international artists of

the 20th and 21st centuries. This winter,

the gallery will hold a retrospective of the

Italian artist Mario Merz, comprising 10 of

his most famous sculptures, installations

and paintings.

Pace Gallery, 6 Burlington Gardens, London W1S 3ET, +44 (0)20 3206 7600,pacegallery.com

2. Fulham Palace

A spectacular Grade I-listed building set

on the banks of the Thames, historic

Fulham Palace has been home to the

bishops of London since the 700s.

The building now houses a museum

charting its history as well as an

in-house café which serves freshly

made sandwiches, cakes and pastries.

Fulham Palace,Bishop’s Avenue, London SW6 6EA, +44 (0)20 7736 3233,fulhampalace.org

3. Wilton’s Music Hall

Grand 19th-century music hall Wilton’s

was left derelict for decades before being

sympathetically restored to become a

thriving arts and heritage venue. A host

of original features still remains; classical

arches, a carved balcony, sloping wooden

foor and artfully dishevelled wallpaper all

add to the hall’s distinctive atmosphere.

Wilton’s Music Hall, 1 Graces Alley, London E1 8JB, +44 (0)20 3468 5670,wiltons.org.uk

LONDON’S HIDDEN ATTRACTIONS

3

PH

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’S M

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WIG

G

SHOP | 81

JAMES STREET

TAVISTOCKSTREET

MAIDENLANE

KINGSTREET

CoventGardenMarket

HENRIETTASTREET

SOUTHAMPTON STREET

EXETERSTREET

LONDON

TRANSPORT

MUSEUM

● MOLTON BROWN

● PENHALIGON’S

● TEA PALACE

● AESOP

● JOY

● BRORA

● LUSH

● L’OCCITANE

● CRABTREE & EVELYN

CARAT ●

KABIRI ●

PIAZZA ●

JAMIE’S ●

G SHOCK ●

CASIO ●

LINKS ●

DIOR ●

CHANEL ●

BURBERRY ●

GODIVA ●

LADURÉE ●

QUIKSILVER ●

ORIGINAL PENGUIN ●

BUILD-A-BEAR ●

THE DISNEY STORE ●

BRIDGES ●

KURT GEIGER ●

APPLE STORE ●

RUGBY RALPH LAUREN ●

MOLESKIN ●

BURBERRY ●

LYLE & SCOTT ●

PALMS ●

OPENING CEREMONY ●

THE SUIT COMPANY ●

MOSS ●

● OAKLEY

● DESTINY

● VILBREQUIN

● JO MALOME

● 7 FOR ALL MANKIND

● OLIVER SWEENEY

● MELISSA

PARAMO ●

THE ARMY GYM ●

KATHMANDU ●

EA

ST

●

PR

ET

TY

GR

EE

N ●

FR

ED

PE

RR

Y ●

PA

PE

RC

HA

SE

●

CO

TS

WO

LD

●

EL

LIS

BR

IGH

AM

MO

UN

TA

IN S

PO

RT

S ●

● T

RE

SP

AS

S

● T

HE

NO

RT

H F

AC

E

ROYAL OPERA HOUSE

AFRICA CENTRE

ShakeShack

Rules

Covent Garden Market Hall, King Street, Henrietta Street & Southampton Street

Aesop

Designer beauty brand Aesop

has a strong aesthetic, which is

evident throughout its product

range and refected in its Covent

Garden boutique. parisian ar-

chitects Ciguë devised the store’s

inter ior, where whitewashed

walls, industrial exposed copper

plumbing and light fxtures, and

an engraved green cement tiled

foor echo the architecture of the

surrounding area.

Aesop,

7 King street,

London WC2e 8HN,

+44 (0)20 7836 8389,

aesop.com

Place Of InterestRestaurant Featured In This Issue

PH

OTO

: © T

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Ka

LOR

y a

Ge

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y

P.83

P.83

82 | GUIDE

Long Acre

KINGSTREET

MERCERSTREET

SHELTONSTREET

Covent GardenMarket

JAMESSTREET

NEALSTREET

FLORALSTREET

LONGACRE

LONGACRE

COVENT GARDEN

FRENCH CONNECTION ●

GEOX ●

MARKS & SPENCER ●

HOBBS ●

REISS ●

RUSSELL & BROMLEY ●

GARDEN PHARMACY ●

CALVIN KLEIN ●

GAP KIDS ●

JACK WOLFSKIN ●

MASSIMO DUTTI ●

THE WATCH HUT ●

COS ●BANANA REPUBLIC ●

BARBOUR ●JACK WILLS ●

L.K.BENNETT ●

● RYMANALL

● SAINTS

● ZARA● HAWES & CURTIS

● BEN SHERMAN● RAY BAN

● SUNGLASS HUT

● UGG AUSTRALIA

● MUJI

● ECCO

● LES NEREIDES

● ASPINAL OF LONDON

● REEBOK

● GAP● H&M

● RABEANCO

● WHISTLES● PANDORA

● CANDELA● JIGSAW

● ESPRIT● TK MAXX

● STANFORDS

● MCA

● REISS

ELLIOT RHODES ●

● SNOW & ROCKSt. Martins Courtyard

RELAX ●

YOTOPIA ●

Bill’s

Dalla Terra

● DUO

JOULES ●

Floral Street & James Street

JAMESSTREET

KINGSTREET

MERCERSTREET

Covent Garden Market

FLORALSTREET

LONGACRE

COVENT GARDEN

KAREN MILLEN ●

DUNE ●TRUE

RELIGION ●

FOSSIL ●

THE BODY SHOP ●

SWAROVSKI ●

● SUNGLASS HUT

● OASIS

● ACCESSORIZE

● MONSOON

● BOOTS

● SKECHERS

PAUL SMITH SHOES ●

PAUL SMITH ●

CAMPER ●

MULBERRY ●

RADLEY ●

AGNÈS B. ●

TINTIN SHOP ●

PAUL & JOE ●

H&M ●

BETSEY JOHNSON ●

ASH ●

● TED BAKER

● NICOLE FARHI

● THE SANCTUARY

● AUBIN & WILLS

● Y-3

● NIGEL HALL

Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer

London Underground StationFeatured In This Issue

Shopping Centre/Mall

Restaurant

SHOP | 83

Monmouth Street & Neal Street

SH

OR

TS

GA

RD

EN

S

EARLHAM STREET

ME

RC

ER

ST

RE

ET

SHELTO

N S

TREET

NE

AL

ST

RE

ET

NE

AL

ST

RE

ET

EN

DE

LL S

T

MO

NM

OU

TH

ST

RE

ET

MO

NM

OU

TH

ST

RE

ET

LO

NG

AC

RE

COVENT GARDEN

CAMPER ●

TIMBERLAND ●

DR. MARTENS ●

THE TEA H

OUSE ●

NATURAL SHO

E STO

RE ●

ALDO ●

SIZE? ●

JOSEF SEIB

EL ●

WESC ●

PEPE JEANS ●

FOOD F

OR

THOUGHT ●

TOM

CAT

LEATHER ●

● CANELA

● N

IKE S

TORE

●M

ANGO

DAVID

● C

LULO

W

●GU

ESS

●BARE E

SCENTUALS

●M

AC

●THE O

RGANIC P

HARMACY

●FREDDY

●AM

ERICAN A

PPAREL

● S

HU UEM

URA

●TABIO

●VIV

O BAREFO

OT

●Y

UMI

●O

FFSPRING

●FO

CUS

●CARHARTT

●PY

LONES

●CRO

CS

AS

TR

OL

OG

Y

●S

HO

P●

SO

LE

●B

IRK

EN

ST

OC

K

● F

ILO

FA

X

URBAN OUTFIT

TERS ●

DIESEL ●

DESTINY ●

OROGOLD COSMETICS ●

HOTEL CHOCOLAT ●

SCRIBBLER ●

FRED PERRY ●

OFFICE ●

LOLLIPOPS PARIS ●

SUPERGA ●

ENERGIE ●

SPEEDO ●

MISS SIXTY ●

● BARACUTTA

● G-STAR RAW

● LONDON GRAPHIC CENTRE

● S

PACE N.K

.

CATH KID

STON ●

ADOLFO

DOM

INGUEZ ●

DEZEEN SUPER STORE ●

LAURA LEEJEWELLERY ●

TATTY DEVINE ●

SCREEN FACE ●

POP BOUTIQUE ●

MILLER HARRIS ●

UNCONDITIONAL ●

MURDOCK LONDON ●

● SASSOON

● GILDA’S TRYST

● BASE

● DRESS CIRCLE

● POSTE MISTRESS

● GUDRUN SJODEN

● MARKET

● BREAKPOINT

● ROSSODESIRA

● MYSTERIES

● ORION

● COCO DE MER

● STUART PHILIPS

● KIEHL’S

● ORLA KIELY

● THE LOFT

● WOLSEY

● ALBAM

Opening Ceremony

Loved by fashion editors, Opening

Ceremony stocks its own directional

designs alongside a carefully selected

range of pieces by international designers.

Opening Ceremony, 35 King Street, London WC2E 8JG, +44 (0)20 7836 4978, openingceremony.us

* featured on page 81

Russell & Bromley

British footwear brand Russell &

Bromley is known for creating high-

quality pieces that reference trends

while maintaining timeless appeal.

Russell & Bromley, 117 Long Acre, London WC2E 9PA, +44 (0)20 7240 1654, russellandbromley.co.uk

Penhaligon’s

Penhaligon’s 34 distinctive scents

incorporate fne and rare ingredients

including vetiver, cedar, vanilla, plum

and tea.

Penhaligon’s, 13 Market Building, The Piazza, London WC2E 8RB, +44 (0)20 3040 3030, penhaligons.com

* featured on page 81

COVENT GARDEN’S BEST BOUTIQUES

P.104

globalblue.com

84 | GU I DE

Above (from lef): crispy noodles with crab at the Begging Bowl; the London Particular café

MY NEIGHBOURHOOD: Vivek Singh

‘My favourite parts of London

are in the south-east – Peckham,

Camberwell and New Cross – as

so many things are currently

happening in these places,

there’s never a dull moment!

‘I love to visit Peckham Rye

Park and Common, which is

beautiful at any time of year,

with everything from ornamen-

tal gardens to woods, streams,

a lake and a meadow; it really is

very special.

‘Peckham is constantly

changing and always surprises

me with new things to do. I love

the local independent cinema

PeckhamPlex, and a visit to

Persepolis, a corner shop of

Persian delights selling every-

thing from books to gifts and

snacks, is a must. I often take my

wife and children to the South

London Gallery where exhibi-

tions are free and there are usu-

ally some fun activities.

‘The London Particu-

lar on New Cross Road is my

regular café. There are always

plenty of freshly made cakes and

Vivek Singh is regarded as one of Britain’s top chefs. Through his three restaurants – the Cinammon Club, Cinammon Kitchen and Cinnamon Soho – he has transformed perceptions

of Indian food. He is also the author of several well-received cookbooks. Here, Vivek introduces Isabella

Redmond Styles to his top places to visit in London cinammonclub.com

SHOP | 85

the members of staf are really

friendly. Another café, No 178,

in New Cross is also nice as it

always has something diferent

and unexpected going on. It’s a

great community spot – and the

cofee is pretty good too. One of

my best recent fnds has been a

Chinese restaurant called Silk

Road where I had one of the

best meals this year, I can’t rec-

ommend it highly enough. The

Begging Bowl in Peckham is a

great place for full and favour-

some Thai street food. The

food is simple, no nonsense and

completely delicious.

‘If I’m in the City, I’m usu-

ally at Cinnamon Kitchen, my

second restaurant, in Devon-

shire Square, but if I’m not

working I do like to go to 5CC

near St Paul’s Cathedral for

a drink. I also like to visit the

Monument, which provides

fabulous views of London

and commemorates the Great

Fire of London, for just £4

– be prepared for some exercise

going up the stairs! At night,

you can’t beat the Southbank

for the stunning views – it really

makes you appreciate how beau-

tiful London can be.

‘On my days of I spend time

with my family or I might take

my favourite walk from Lon-

don Bridge to Shakespeare’s

Globe theatre. There are plen-

ty of little streets to meander

through on the way and a great

view of the river; this is an area

where you feel there’s a huge

amount of history. If I’m hav-

ing some ‘me’ time then I love

to read suf poetry and, as I’m a

big cricket fan, I like to catch a

match when I can.

‘My tips for visitors to Lon-

don are to see the exhibitions

and museums, and to walk a lot.

I fnd you only really get a true

sense of a place when you walk

around it – it’s only then that

you notice those hidden-away

shops and bars.’

globalblue.com

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86 | GUIDE

Bicester Village

Located just one hour away

from central London, Bices-

ter Village is surrounded by

picturesque countryside and

is close to the historic city

of oxford. Bicester Village

plays host to more than 130

boutiques from leading big-

name brands and creative

up-and-coming labels.

Bicester Village,

50 Pingle Drive, Bicester,

oxfordshire oX26 6wD,

+44 (0)1869 323200,

bicestervillage.com

Opening times

Monday-Friday:

10am – 7pm

Saturday: 9am – 8pm

Sunday: 10am – 7pm*

*on Sundays Burber-

ry, gucci, Hugo Boss and

Polo Ralph Lauren open at

11.30am for browsing and

at 12pm for shopping; they

close at 6pm. Prada and

Versace open from 12pm to

6pm for shopping.

Gina

gina’s shoes come in sculp-

tural styles that demonstrate

an imaginative use of cut, co-

lour and fabric. Peruse the

collection and admire the

meticulous attention to detail

evident in each pair.

New oPeNINgS

Oscar de la Renta

Add a touch of Hollywood

glamour to your ward-

robe with a trip to oscar de

la Renta. the designer is

known for producing inher-

ently feminine pieces that are

red-carpet ready.

British Designers’

Collective

Curated by gQ associate

editor Robert Johnston, the

British Designers’ Collective

pop-up features collections

from more than 15 of Brit-

ain’s emerging and estab-

lished menswear designers.

globalblue.com

SHOP | 87

How to get tHeRe

By Shopping Express®

the Shopping express®

is the daily* coach ser-

vice from central London

to Bicester Village, one of

the world’s premier luxury

shopping destinations.

*excludes 25 December

ticket prices:

Adult return £25

Child return £20

(up to 15 years of age)

By Train

there are regular ser-

vices – up to four an hour

– from London Maryle-

bone to Bicester North sta-

tion; the journey can take

as little as 42 minutes. the

Bicester Village Shuttle

Bus will whisk you to your

favourite boutiques.

By Car

the journey from London

takes 60 minutes. take the

M40 motorway to exit nine.

Follow the A41 for two miles

towards Bicester and then

follow the signs to Village

Retail Park and Bicester Vil-

lage outlet Centre. the car

park is free. If you are using

a satellite navigation system,

the postcode is oX26 6wD.

10am

whether you’re looking for

sandals, boots, platforms or

ballerina pumps, the sophisti-

cated range at Rupert Sand-

erson is sure to impress.

11am

Stop for lunch at Italian res-

taurant Carluccio’s. the

menu includes fresh pas-

ta, risotto and salad dishes

while the atmosphere is lively

and relaxed.

PeRFeCt DAY

5pm

end your day admiring the

stylish, hardwearing and

practical luggage at Sam-

sonite. An item from here

will be ideal for transporting

your purchases home safely.

3pm

Hearts on Fire provides a

selection of the world’s fnest

cut diamonds and is known

as a leader in the international

feld. Prepare to be dazzled.

88

When you shop the world, shop tax free

/97 100

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1. Shop

Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form and remember to keep your receipts.

100

samsonite.com

A REVOLUTION IN LIGHTNESS,

STRENGTH AND SECURITY

The frst Samsonite combining

Curv® Technology and a 3-point Lock

LITE-LOCKED

globalblue.com

90

Refund Ofces

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Translations

РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД

44: Wool's Worth

Модная овечка

Ведущие дома моды от Prada до Paul Smith закупают натуральные ткани в Великобритании, – рассказывает Доминик Фенн

Сто лет назад один из британских городов оказал значительное влияние на всю мировую моду. Многие наверняка предположили, что это Лондон, однако речь идет совсем о другом городе на севере Англии под названием Брэдфорд. В те времена Брэдфорд был крупным промышленным центром Британии с сотней текстильных фабрик, которые занимались производством известной на весь мир шерсти. Одной из причин такого успеха было обилие пресной воды, необходимой для очистки шерсти

Со временем количество действующих заводов значительно сократилось, и лишь немногим удалось просуществовать до наших дней. Тем не менее, многие из традиционные навыков производства продолжали передаваться от поколения к поколению и даже сейчас в эпоху современных технологий, они все еще не теряют своей ценности.

Крупнейшая в мире текстильная компания Woolmark Company совсем недавно отметила свое 50-летие. Помимо оказания поддержки молодым британским дизайнерам, компания способствует развитию технологий производства и

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переработки шерсти по всей стране. Международная премия Woolmark быстро становится одной из самых желанных наград среди дизайнеров. В числе ее лауреатов – британский бренд Sibling и бельгийский дизайнер Христиан Вийнантс.

Три года назад компания Woolmark запустила проект под названием Loom to London, который помогает молодым дизайнерам завоевать новые горизонты. Одтн из таких дизайнерских брендов – Teatum Jones, расположенный в Лондоне и занимающийся созданием роскошной женской одежды. Бренд существует уже три года и за это время ему удалось завоевать немало поклонников, очарованных оригинальными принтами и инновационным подходом к текстилю. В результате изделия марки стали самыми продаваемыми в универмаге Liberty в отделе международных товаров.

Благодаря организации Woolmark Company и ряду британских фабрик, компания смогла создать жаккардовые ткани с 3D-рельефом. «Их создание стало возможным благодаря современным технологиям», – говорит дизайнер Роб Джонс, который совместно с Катериной Театум основал марку Teatum Jones. После того, как 3D ткань была готова, другая фабрика помогла Джонсу с ламинированием жаккарда, сохранив при этом

3D элементы ткани. «Наше стремление

производить все вещи на территории Великобритании потребовало особых отношений с производителями сырья и фабриками», – говорит Джонс. «Работая с такими сложными по структуре тканями, мы осознали необходимость тесного сотрудничества с каждым из производителей. Нам очень повезло, что практически у нашего порога существуют такие талантливые мастера, творящие с тканью буквально чудеса».

Бренд Teatum Jones присоединился к длинному списку производителей предметов интерьера и модной одежды, которые всецело или отчасти полагаются на британские фабрики. Prada и Louis Vuitton, например, предпочитают закупать определенные материалы у британских поставщиков, причиной тому – высочайшее мастерство и многочисленные инновации.

Традиционный британский лейбл мужской одежды Dunhill знаменит своим современным подходом к моде, несмотря на более чем столетнюю историю. В последнее время компания направляет множество инвестиций в строительство новой фабрики в восточной части Лондона, а также не перестает отдавать предпочтение качественным тканям британского

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производства. Paul Smith – еще одна подлинно британская марка. Ее костюмы ценятся по всему миру, включая те страны, где климат намного жарче английского, именно поэтому компания использует тонкую и легкую ткань Cool Wool, которую производит фабрика Joseph H Clissold в Брэдфорде.

Конечно, успех британских текстильных фабрик стал возможен благодаря удовлетворению нужд клиентов по всему миру. «Порой мы получаем самые невероятные заказы от клиентов», – говорит Найджел Берч, управляющий модернизацией и совершенствованием продукции в компании WT Johnson & Sons, которая занимается покраской и окончательной обработкой ткани для клиентов из разных стран мира. «Однажды мы вплели нить из 24-каратного золота в ткань для костюма стоимостью 700 000 фунтов, а также украсили ткань нефритом для одного из наших японских клиентов. У нас также был заказчик в Шотлании, который хотел получить ткань, вымоченную в виски, – мы всегда стараемся выполнить желания наших клиентов!». woolmark.com, teatumjones.com, dunhill.co.uk, paulsmith.co.uk, clissold.co.uk, wtjohnson.co.uk

52: Ask The Expert:

Jo Malone

Мнение эксперта: Джо Мэлоун

В детстве Джо Мэлоун создавала парфюмерные композиции из цветов, подражая матери – профессиональному косметологу. Прежде чем открыть Jo Malone London, она работала флористом и готовила масла для ванны, крема и ароматические свечи. Постепенно дело развивалось, салоны открывались по всему миру, и в 2011 году компания Estée Lauder взяла на себя управление молодым брендом. Совсем недавно Мэлоун представила изысканную серию Jo Loves, в которую вошли косметика и аксессуары для дома. Джо Мэлоун поделилась с Кэти Янг профессиональными рекомендациями по выбору парфюмаjomalone.co.uk, joloves.com

1. Определите собственный аромат кожи «Одна из самых больших ошибок, на мой взгляд, ориентироваться на опыт других людей в вопросах выбора духов. Кожа каждого из нас обладает уникальной химией, поэтому аромат может приобретать самые разные оттенки», - размышляет Мэлоун. Не дайте себя обмануть: прекрасный парфюм

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подруги может совершенно иначе восприниматься на вашей коже. «Важно осознать, что вам больше всего нравится в трех любимых запахах: обычно это шлейф, отдельные нотки или общие ощущения». Проанализируйте ключевые характеристики аромата: например, он может быть легким, свежим или теплым.

2. Используйте цветовой шифр Выбирая персональный аромат, прислушивайтесь не только к обонянию. Имеет смысл представить, с каким цветом ассоциируется тот или иной запах, и тогда интуитивно можно определить, что именно подходит больше. Сама Мэлоун утверждает, что ее этому приему научила дислексия: «По сути,

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поиск аромата – это как выбор цвета, в который вы собираетесь себя раскрасить. Например, осенью и в канун Рождества будет много официальных мероприятий, на которые часто надевают что-нибудь красное. Красный цвет связан с рубиновым, насыщенным и ярким ароматом. Изумрудный зеленый – со спокойным цветочным запахом свежей гардении. Желтый напоминает о солнечном свете, легкости и цитрусах, а оранжевый – о терпкой корице». Цветовой шифр, объединяющий гардероб и парфюм, может гармонизировать образ, тем более что зачастую мы выбираем оттенки, характерные для конкретного сезона.

3. Учитывайте оттенок кожи

В зависимости от тона кожи букет парфюма может также раскрываться по-разному. Людям с более темной кожей подойдут насыщенные запахи, со светлой – легкие и цветочные. «Это тоже связано с химией тела, - считает Мэлоун. – Даже рацион питания имеет значение. Загоревшая кожа привычна к солнечному воздействию, и обычно в ней больше масла, а это серьезно влияет на раскрытие аромата».

4. Не торопитесь

Для правильного выбора, нужно немало времени: «Выберите четыре или пять вариантов и сделайте небольшой

перерыв. Лучше всего вдохнуть запах кофейных зерен или лимонного шербета, чтобы дать отдохнуть рецепторам», - советует Мэлоун. Не зря в бутиках парфюмерных лейблов премиум-класса принято всегда держать кофейные зерна под рукой. Чтобы понять, подходит ли вам конкретный парфюм, нанесите его именно на кожу, а не на одежду или тестер. Мэлоун рекомендует остановиться на трех лучших вариантах - и только на следующий день принять окончательное решение.

5. Не забывайте про сезонность

Выбирать ароматы лучше в соответствии с временем года. «Если летом вам понравились сандаловые нотки, то обратите внимание на теплые дубовые тона к зиме. В холодное время года уместны будут древесные, пряные и кожаные оттенки, - утверждает Мэлоун. – Если вам по душе, например, Passion от Annick Goutal с его ванилью и жасмином, то присмотритесь к сладким парфюмам с янтарными цветочными нотами и, лучше всего, медом. Поклонникам насыщенных цветочных мотивов, точно понравится более спокойный ночной жасмин». Мэлоун также рекомендует по-разному использовать парфюмы в зависимости от времени года: «Зимой я наношу духи прямо на кашемировые свитера с объемным воротом или большие мягкие шарфы».

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受美容师母亲的启发，Jo Malone自

童年时代就开始使用鲜花制作香水。

在伦敦创建 Jo Malone品牌并贩卖

沐浴油、面霜与蜡烛之前，她曾是一

名花匠。目前品牌已在全球范围内设

52: Ask The Expert: Jo Malone

提问行家

从Prada到 Paul Smith，Dominique

Fenn带我们观察英国先锋时装大牌

如何使用天然面料

一百年前的伦敦还仅仅是英格兰北部

的一个城市，尚未成为国际时装先锋。

而布拉德福德是当时英国的工业中

心，被称为国际上的羊毛之都，拥有上

百家羊毛工厂。布拉德福德盛产羊毛

的原因之一来当地于用来清洗羊毛的

软质水源 。

多年来，运作的羊毛工厂（也称

作坊）大幅减少，仅存下来工厂的屈指

可数。所幸很多手工艺被世世代代流

传下来，为机械化的面料行业存留了

宝贵的竞争力。

Woolmark公司是世界顶尖的羊

毛面料机构，最近刚刚庆祝了它的50

年周年纪念。它一直致力于赞助年轻

的设计师，并支持英国工厂化生产中

存留的手工业制造。国际Woolmark

奖迅速成为设计师奖项中最炙手可热

的奖项；之前的获奖者包括英国品牌

Sibling和比利时品牌Christian Wi-

jnants。

三年前进驻伦敦的Woolmark给

新新设计师提供了更多工厂生产的选

择，如 Teatum Jones这个伦敦奢华女

装品牌。三年后的今天Teatum Jones

以其美丽的印花和创意的改造面料著

称，成了Liberty百货里最热卖的女装

品牌。

感谢Woolmark公司和英国制

造，Teatum Jones成功地创造出了

3D提花布料。与Catherine Teatum

合伙创建Teatum Jones的首席设计

师Rob Jones说：“我们运用最新的技

术研制出了这种面料”。3D面料被打

印出来的同时，Teatum Jones在3D面

44: Wool's Worth

羊毛的价值

美文翻译 料不被压平的状态下叠加提花。

“对于 英国制 造的热忱源于

我们搭建工厂设计与手工作坊的桥

梁，”Johns说。“加工如此精致的面料

和衣服要求我们与每一位供应商保持

紧密的联系。我们为能垂手可得如此

精湛的手工艺而感到万分幸运。”

Teatum Jones像众多英国乃至

国际品牌一样，加入了携手英国制造

的行列：例如Prada和Luis Vuitton，

他们也从英国制造业引进专业的创新

面料。

至臻英国男装品牌Dunh i l l在

创建一百年后仍保有摩登的气质，品

牌正在建立新的东伦敦工厂，鼎力支

持英国工厂制造中的面料品质。Paul

Smith是另一个富有英国性格的品

牌，他的西装遍布世界包括一些比英

国气候炎热的国家，所以使用由布拉

德福德面料供应商Joseph H Clissold

制造的凉爽羊毛、上乘轻质面料。

当然满足顾客需求是英国面料工

厂的成功缘故。WT Johnson & Sons

是面料染色和加工专供商，其产品研

发经理Nigel Birch说：“我们收到

来自客户的各种要求。一次将24克拉

金织进一件价值七十万英镑的西装

面料当中。我们还把玉缝进面料为一

个日本客户带来好运。还有一个苏格

兰顾客希望他们的面料中能有威士

忌——我们总是试着满足我们顾客的

需求！”

woolmark.com, teatumjones.com,

dunhill.co.uk, paulsmith.co.uk,

clissold.co.uk, wtjohnson.co.uk

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店，并于2011年被雅诗兰黛集团收

购。Malone之后推出了Jo Loves系

列，这条精致的产品线包括美容产品

与家居用品。在此，她与Katy Young

分享了选购香水的私房秘诀

jomalone.co.uk, joloves.com

1.找到自己的味道

“我认为人们最大的误 区就是购买

在他人身上闻起来不错的香水；实

际上，所有人的皮肤基因都是不同

的，”Malone指出。不要轻易为朋友使

用的香水动心，因为它在你的皮肤上

不会散发出同样的味道。“窍门是要

找到你最喜欢的三款香水的共性——

可能是一种思绪、一种香调或是一种

感觉。”例如去钻研某款香水的个性，

并自问其是否淡雅、清新或是温暖。

2.色彩解码

不要只使用鼻子来决定自己的招牌

香味，Malone建议。想象一种香水

可以用什么“颜 色”来代表，是一种

直观与细致的寻觅合适香氛的方法

（Malone表示她是在克服阅读障碍

症的时候发现了这一诀窍）。“在寻找

某种味道时，你差不多该去试想你想

要表现哪种颜色。譬如，在各种正式

场合频繁的秋季与圣诞季，你或许会

穿戴红色。红色可通感为浓郁、红宝石

色与经过加热的香味。而美丽的翠绿

则让人联想到初绽栀子花的清雅；黄

色可理解为阳光、清淡与柑橘味，橙色

则代表焦肉桂。”为您的衣橱进行色

彩解码并搭配香氛，或许是一种使味

道和谐平衡的做法，因为我们的穿着

往往反映着季节的变化。

3.了解肌肤色调

在投资香水前需要先了解自己的皮肤

颜色，因为香水在不同类型的皮肤表

面停留的方式并不相同。深色肌肤人

群更适合较为浓重的香调，而浅色肌

肤人群则适合清淡花香调。“这与身

体化学有关，”Malone表示。“这甚至

与我们的饮食也有关系。深色、经过日

晒的皮肤往往习惯于暴露在日光之中，

并含有更多油脂，这会极大地影响香

水的表现。”

4. 切勿急躁

挑选一款香水需要时间与空间。“最多

同时试闻四或五种香水，中途休息一

下并嗅闻咖啡豆或柠檬冰霜来清清鼻

子，”Malone建议，并指出高级香氛品

牌至少会常备咖啡豆。为准确了解香

水是否真的在自己身上闻起来不错，

应该将其喷在皮肤上进行测试。将您

的选择范围缩小到三个，然后在第二

天返回店中进行最终选择，Malone

提议。

5.季节性香氛

为一年中的不同时节选择不同的香

水。“如果你在夏天喜欢素心兰，在冬PH

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88: When You Shop The

World, Shop Tax Free

عندما تتسوق حول العال، تسوق من دون دفع الضيبة

تقدم لك غلوبل بلو Global Blue خدمةTax التسوق من دون دفع الضيبة

من أكث تسوقك ف لدى الال Free لتدخر

التسوق مناطق أبرز 270,000 متجر ف

حول العال.الذين مسافر فلم ل تنضم إل الـ 26 مليون

يتسوقون من دون دفع الضيبة من خللغلوبل بلو Global Blue كل سنة؟ ماعليك إل أن تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو

تسأل عن غلوبل بلو Global Blue وتتبعخطواتنا السهلة.

1.تسوقأينم تسوقت، أطلب الحصول عل طلب

Global استداد الضيبة الخاص بغلوبل بلوباليصالت. تحتفظ أن Blue وتذكر

2.أطلبف طريق العودة إل وطنك، أقصد مكتب

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w.الستداد الخاصة بناللتصال:

taxfree@globalblue.com

+421 232 111 111

أنفق حدا أدن قدره 50£-30£ وادخرمبلغ مشتياتك. يشمل ثن حتى %11 من الستداد النهائ الذي ستحصل عليه مجموع

الضيبة عل القيمة الضافة ناقص رسمإداري. ف بعض الطارات، يفرض رسم خدمة

نقدي عل كل طلب استداد ضيبة ف حالرغبت بالحصول عل استداد فوري نقدي.

الفانيل والياسمي الناعمة(، اختاري عطراناعم برائحة العنب والزهور، والفضل أنتختاري شيئا فيه رائحة العسل. وإن كنت

ي عطور الزهار القوية، اختاري ياسمي تحبتغيي يكن الليل". كم تشح Malone أنه

طريقة استخدام العطر بحسب الوسم: العالية أرشه عل كنزات أن الشتاء "أحب ف

الياقات من الكشمي أو عل وشاح كبيمن الكشمي."

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88: When You Shop The

World, Shop Tax Free

畅购全球，尊享退税

天偏爱橡树与苔藓——那么你在冬天

也会喜欢木质与辛辣香调，以及皮革

香调，”Malone表示。“举例而言，如

果你喜欢Annick Goutal的Passion

（以甜美香草和茉莉香味著称），执

着于气味香甜的琥珀花香调——带有

蜂蜜香调的香氛也会是你的心头好。

同样的，如果您喜爱浓郁上头的花香

调，那就选夜茉莉。”Malone还表示

同款香氛在不同季节的使用方法也不

尽相同：“在冬天，我喜欢将香水喷在

大翻领羊绒衫或大羊绒围巾 上。”

globalblue.com

101

الخاص ذوقك 1.اعرف

الكب أن الخطأ تقول Malone: "أعتقد الذي نرتكبه هو اختيار عطر زك عل شخص

ا بشة مختلفة". ل آخر؛فلكل واحد من تدعي عطر صديقتك يخدعك إذ لن يبعث

الرائحة نفسها عل بشتك. "يكمن الس فإيجاد أمور تحبينها ف أجمل ثلثة عطور لديك؛غالبا ما يوجد ميزة أو عنص أو شعور." فكريبخصائص العطر واسأل نفسك إن كان خفيفا أو

منعشا أو دافئا عل سبيل الثال.

اللون 2.عنص مجرد تستخدمي ل تنصح Malone بأن

أنفك لتحددي عطرك الفضل. تعتب أنالتفكي بالعطر من حيث "اللون" الذي

تعتقدين أنه يتناسب معه هو طريقة بديهيةوبسيطة للتكيز عل العطر الذي تسعي إليه

إل هذه توصلت )تقول Malone إنها

الخدعة لنها تعان عسا ف القراءة(. "عندما ل أنك تختارين لونا تريدين اختيار عطر، تخي

ترسمي به. عل سبيل الثال، ف فصل الخريفوعيد اليلد حي تكث الناسبات الرسمية، قد

ترتدين اللون الحمر الذي يتجم إل عطر غنيومحموم. قد يعني اللون الخض الزمرديالجميل الهدوء مثل زهرة غاردينيا جديدةمتفتحة؛ والصفر يعني الشمس والضوء

ات والبتقال يعني قرفة محروقة." والحمضي يكن تنسيق ألوان ملبسك مع عطرك إذ غالبا

ما تعب ألوان ملبسنا عن الوسم.

البشة ألوان 3.إفهمي خذي بعي العتبار لون بشتك قبل أن

تختاري عطرا إذ يستجيب كل نوع بشة إلالرائحة بطريقة مختلفة. تلئم العطور القوية

البشة الدكن ف حي تناسب روائح الزهارالخفيفة البشة الفتح. تقول Malone فهذا الصدد: "المر متعلق بطريقة تفاعلالجسم وبا نأكل. البشة السمراء الداكنةة الشمس وغالبا ما تكون

معتادة عل أشعغنية بالزيوت، المر الذي يؤثر عل الرائحة

إل حد كبي."

تستعجل 4.ل

ستحتاجي إل الوقت والجال لدى اختيار عطر. العطور تعتقد Malone أنه عل علمات ات بن عل الفاخرة أن تقدم ف محلتها حب

القل وتشح قائلة: "اختاري أربعة أو خمسةات استيحي وتنشقي حب عطور كحد أقص ثمبن أو مثلجات بنكهة الليمون لتنقية أنفك."

الطريقة الفضل لتعرف كيف ستكون رائحةالعطر عليك، هي أن ترش العطر التجريبي

عل بشتك. احصي خياراتك بثلثة ثم عودياليوم التال لتختاري.

موسمية 5.روائح اختاري عطورا لختلف أوقات السنة. تقولالشيب ي عطور تحب Malone: "إن كنت

ف الصيف، استخدمي روائح السنديانوالطحالب ف الشتاء، ستحبي ف هذا الفصل

روائح الخشاب والتوابل والجلود. إن كنت عل سبيل الثال تحبي عطر Passion من

بروائح Annick Goutal )العروف

102

الصدد: "تولد هذا يقول Jones ف شغفنا لتصنيع كل شء ف بريطانيا منحاجتنا لخلق علقة وطيدة مع الصنعي

والغازل التي نتعامل معها. لننا نعمل علملبس وأقمشة دقيقة ومبتكرة، بات منالضوري أن نعمل عن قرب مع كل منمزودينا. من حسن حظنا أنه لدينا حرفيي

ماهرين قريبي منا لنتمكن من تحقيق ذلك."إحدى ما Teatum Jones إل العلمات التجارية البيطانية والدولية

الختصة بالديكور الداخل والزياء التي تضعثقتها بالعامل البيطانية: للحصول عل بعضLouis Vuittonو Prada القمشة، تلجأعل سبيل الثال إل معامل بريطانية لتمتعها

بالخبة والبتكار.تعتمد علمة Dunhill البيطانية

الشهية ف مجال ملبس الرجال مقاربةعصية بالرغم من إرثها العريق. تستثمرالشكة ف معمل جديد شقي لندن وتدعمجودة الصناعة البيطانية بقوة. من العلماتPaul الخرى الغنية بالزايا البطيانية علمة

با العال حول بدلتها Smith. تشتهر

ف ذلك ف البلدان الكث حرا من بريطانيا،Cool Wool لذا تستخدم الشكة قمش

Joseph H الناعم الخفيف الوزن من صنع.Bradford ف Clissold

بالطبع، حققت شكات القمشةالبيطانية نجاحات باهرة لتلبيتها طلبات

الزبائن. يقول Nigel Birch مدير تطويرWT Johnson & Sons النتج ف شكة

التي تصبغ وتصنع القمشة لزبائن حول العال: الزبائن. قمنا الطلبات من أنواع كافة "نتلقى استخدم قمش بحياكة ذهب عيار 24 ف جنيه لخياطة بدلة بلغت قيمتها 700 ألف استليني وصنعنا قمشا محبوكا بحجر الجادالكريم آملي أن يجلب الحظ لزبون يابان.

كم طلب منا زبون اسكتلندي مرة إضافةالويسك إل القمش – نحاول دائا تلبية

طلبات زبائننا!"،woolmark.com

،teatumjones.com

،dunhill.co.uk ،paulsmith.co.uk

clissold.co.uk ،wtjohnson.co.uk

التجميل خبية تأثرت Jo Malone بوالدتها فبدأت تصنع العطور من الزهار عندما

كانت طفلة. عملت كمنسقة أزهار قبل أنتنشئ علمة Jo Malone London وتبيعزيوت استحمم ودهانات وشموعا من صنعها. ازدهرت العلمة وافتتحت متاجر حول العال

ثم انتقلت ملكيتها إل Estée Lauder سنةJo حديثا خط Malone 2011. أطلقت

تجميل Loves الذي يشمل مستحضات

وأغراضا للمنزل. تفصح ف هذا الحديث معاختيار عطر أسار Katy Young عن

jomalone.co.uk ،joloves.com

52: Ask The Expert: Jo Malone

إسأل الخبية

globalblue.com

103

من Prada إل Paul Smith، تلجأ دورالزياء الرائدة عاليا إل بريطانيا كمصدر

لقمشتها الطبيعية، تقريرDominique Fenn

منذ مئة سنة، ل يكن للندن أي تأثي عل الزياءالعالية، بل مدينة أخرى شمل إنكلتا. كانت

البيطانية الصناعة قلب Bradford ف

واشتهرت كعاصمة عالية للصوف إذ ضمتالنطقة الحيطة مئات العامل. وقد تفوقت

الياه توافر نتيجة الجال هذا Bradford ف

العذبة الستخدمة لتنظيف الصوف.ومع مرور الوقت، انخفض عدد العاملالعاملة )العروفة أيضا بالغازل( بشكلملحوظ ول يبق منها سوى قلة. لكن ورثتالجيال التعاقبة الهارات الكتسبة التي مازالت بالغة الهمية ف هذا الجال التنافس

بالرغم من التطور الحرز بوجود اللت.The احتفلت مؤخرا منظمة

عاليا Woolmark Company الرائدة

ف مجال صناعة الصوف بعيدها الخمسي. لطالا عملت عل دعم الصممي الشباب

44: Wool's Worth

صنع ف بريطانيا

ونش التوعية عن الهارات الوجودة فترجمة باللغة العربيةالصناعة البيطانية. ونشي ف هذا الطار إل

International Woolmark ازدياد شهرةالصممي جوائز أبرز Prize كإحدى

ونذكر من الفائزين السابقي العلمةالبلجيك البيطانية Sibling والصمم

.Christian Wijnants

Woolmark منذ ثلث سنوات، أطلقتمبادرة Loom to London لتعرفالصممي الشباب إل خيارات التصنيع ف

Teatum Jones هذه البلد ومنها علمةالختصة باللبس النسائية الفاخرة والتمركزة

ف لندن. اليوم وف عامها الثالث، تشتهرالعلمة بنقوشها الجميلة ومقاربتها البتكرة

إل تطوير القمشة والتي باتت بفضلها العلمةالكث مبيعا ف مجال اللبس النسائية ف

.Liberty متجرThe Wool بساعدة منظمة

البيطانية، ابتكرت Company والغازل

الشكة قمش جاكار ثلث البعاد. يقولTeatum أنشأ الصمم Rob Jones الذي

:Catherine Teatum مع Jones

وأعددناه مستخدمي القمش "ابتكرنا تقنيات بالغة الحداثة". بعد ابتكار القمش

الثلث البعاد، ساعد مغزل آخر الشكة علتلميع الجاكار من دون إلغاء العنص الثلث

البعاد فيه.

104 | PRODUCTS

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