South America 14 - Preview (Chapter) - Lonely Planet...to San Agustín to explore pre-Columbian ruins, and on to Parque Nacional Natural Puracé , for Andean treks. Then go to Pasto

South America

Regis St Louis, Isabel Albiston, Celeste Brash, Brendan Sainsbury, Robert Balkovich, Jade Bremner, Cathy Brown, Gregor Clark,

Alex Egerton, Michael Grosberg, Anthony Ham, Mark Johanson, Anna Kaminski, Brian Kluepfel, Tom Masters, Carolyn McCarthy,

MaSovaida Morgan, Anja Mutić, Kevin Raub, Adam Skolnick, Paul Smith, Andy Symington, Phillip Tang,

Luke Waterson, Wendy Yanagihara

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Welcome to South America . . . . . . . . . .6

South America Map . . . . . .8

South America’s Top 15 . . 10

Need to Know . . . . . . . . . 20

First Time South America . . . . . . . . 22

If You Like . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24Month by Month . . . . . . . .27

Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . .31

Big Adventures, Small Budgets . . . . . . . . 40

Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . .47

Countries at a Glance . . . 55

ARGENTINA . . . . . . . . 60Buenos Aires . . . . . . . . . . 63Northeast Argentina . . . 87Rosario . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87Santa Fe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94Paraná . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97Parque Esteros del Iberá . . .99Corrientes . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100Resistencia . . . . . . . . . . . . 102Posadas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105San Ignacio . . . . . . . . . . . . 106Puerto Iguazú . . . . . . . . . . 107Parque Nacional Iguazú . . 110Northwest Argentina . . . 111Córdoba . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .111La Rioja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .117Santiago del Estero . . . . . 119Tucumán . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119Tafí del Valle . . . . . . . . . . . 121Cafayate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122Salta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126Jujuy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130Quebrada de Humahuaca . . . . . . . . . . . . 132Atlantic Coast . . . . . . . . 134Mar del Plata . . . . . . . . . . . 134Villa Gesell . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136Pinamar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137Bahía Blanca . . . . . . . . . . . 138Sierra de la Ventana . . . . 139Central Argentina . . . . . 140San Luis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140Mendoza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140Uspallata . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147San Juan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148Malargüe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150Las Leñas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150The Lake District . . . . . .151Neuquén . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151Junín de los Andes . . . . . . 153Parque Nacional Lanín . . .154

San Martín de los Andes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154Villa la Angostura . . . . . . . 156Bariloche . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi . . . . . . . . . . 162El Bolsón . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162Esquel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164Parque Nacional Los Alerces . . . . . . . . . . . . 165Patagonia . . . . . . . . . . . . 166Puerto Madryn . . . . . . . . . 166Reserva Faunística Península Valdés . . . . . . . 170Trelew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .171Comodoro Rivadavia . . . . 172Los Antiguos . . . . . . . . . . . 173El Chaltén . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173El Calafate . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175Tierra del Fuego . . . . . . 180Ushuaia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181

BOLIVIA . . . . . . . . . . 199La Paz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201Lake Titicaca . . . . . . . . . 219Copacabana . . . . . . . . . . . 219Isla del Sol . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223The Cordilleras & Yungas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226Coroico & Yolosa . . . . . . . 226Chulumani . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229Sorata . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231Southern Altiplano . . . . 232Oruro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234Uyuni . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 237Tupiza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 243Tarija . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 246Central Highlands . . . . 250Cochabamba . . . . . . . . . . . 251Sucre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 257Potosí . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .264Santa Cruz & Gran Chiquitania . . . . . . . . . . 268

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Contents

Santa Cruz . . . . . . . . . . . . . 268Samaipata . . . . . . . . . . . . . 273Jesuit Mission Circuit . . . 274Amazon Basin . . . . . . . . 275Rurrenabaque . . . . . . . . . . 276Parque Nacional Madidi . . 281Trinidad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 281

BRAZIL . . . . . . . . . . . 300Rio de Janeiro . . . . . . . . 304The Southeast . . . . . . . 327Búzios . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 327Ilha Grande . . . . . . . . . . . . 329Paraty . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 331São Paulo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 332Belo Horizonte . . . . . . . . . 341Ouro Prêto . . . . . . . . . . . . .344Tiradentes . . . . . . . . . . . . .346The South . . . . . . . . . . . 347Curitiba . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .348Paranaguá . . . . . . . . . . . . .350Ilha do Mel . . . . . . . . . . . . .350Florianópolis & Ilha de Santa Catarina . . . . . . . . . 351Porto Alegre . . . . . . . . . . . 355Foz do Iguaçu . . . . . . . . . . 358The Central West . . . . . 361Brasília . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 362The Pantanal . . . . . . . . . . .364Cuiabá . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 367Campo Grande . . . . . . . . . 370Bonito & Around . . . . . . . . 371Corumbá . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 373The Northeast . . . . . . . . 374Salvador . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 375Lençóis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 381Morro de São Paulo . . . . . 382Itacaré . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 383Ilhéus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .384Porto Seguro . . . . . . . . . . . 385Arraial d’Ajuda . . . . . . . . .386

Trancoso . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 387Maceió . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 387Recife . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .388Olinda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 392Praia da Pipa . . . . . . . . . . . 395Natal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .396Canoa Quebrada . . . . . . .398Fortaleza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .398Jericoacoara . . . . . . . . . . . 401São Luís . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .405Parque Nacional dos Lençóis Maranhenses . . .408The North . . . . . . . . . . . . 408Belém . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .409Algodoal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 414Ilha de Marajó . . . . . . . . . . 414Santarém . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 415Manaus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 418Novo Airão . . . . . . . . . . . . . 422The Amazon . . . . . . . . . . . 424Porto Velho . . . . . . . . . . . . 425Guajará-Mirim . . . . . . . . . .426Rio Branco . . . . . . . . . . . . .426Xapuri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .426

CHILE . . . . . . . . . . . . 444Santiago . . . . . . . . . . . . . 446Around Santiago . . . . . . 463Valparaíso . . . . . . . . . . . . .465Northern Chile . . . . . . . 474La Serena . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 474Elqui Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . 479Copiapó . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .482Parque Nacional Pan de Azúcar . . . . . . . . . .484Antofagasta . . . . . . . . . . . .484Calama . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .485Chuquicamata . . . . . . . . .486San Pedro de Atacama . . . 488Iquique . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 493Arica . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .498Route 11 & Putre . . . . . . . . 501

Parque Nacional Lauca . . .501Middle Chile . . . . . . . . . 502Pichilemu . . . . . . . . . . . . . .502Curicó . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .504Maule Valley . . . . . . . . . . .504Chillán . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .505Nevados de Chillán & Valle Las Trancas . . . . . . .506Concepción . . . . . . . . . . . .506Los Ángeles . . . . . . . . . . . .508The Lakes District . . . . 508Temuco . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .508Parque Nacional Conguillío . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 512Villarrica . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 512Pucón . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 514Parque Nacional Huerquehue . . . . . . . . . . . 518Valdivia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 519Osorno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 522Parque Nacional Puyehue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 523Puerto Varas . . . . . . . . . . . 524Ensenada . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 528Parque Nacional Vicente Pérez Rosales . . . . . . . . . . 528Puerto Montt . . . . . . . . . . . 529Chiloé . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 532Ancud . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 532Castro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 534Dalcahue & Isla Quinchao . . . . . . . . . . 537Parque Nacional Chiloé . . .537Quellón . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 538Northern Patagonia . . . 538Parque Nacional Pumalín . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 538Futaleufú . . . . . . . . . . . . . .540Coyhaique . . . . . . . . . . . . . 541Lago General Carrera . . . 543Chile Chico . . . . . . . . . . . .544Villa O’Higgins . . . . . . . . . 545Southern Patagonia . . . 546

Punta Arenas . . . . . . . . . . 547Puerto Natales . . . . . . . . . 549Parque Nacional Torres del Paine . . . . . . . . 552Tierra del Fuego . . . . . . 555Rapa Nui (Easter Island) . . . . . . . 556

COLOMBIA . . . . . . . 570Bogotá . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 574North of Bogotá . . . . . . 587Villa de Leyva . . . . . . . . . . 587Santuario de Iguaque . . . 591Parque Nacional Natural El Cocuy . . . . . . . 592San Gil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 593Barichara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 596Cañon del Chicamocha . . .597Bucaramanga . . . . . . . . . . 598Caribbean Coast . . . . . . 599Santa Marta . . . . . . . . . . . 599Minca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .602Parque Nacional Natural Tayrona . . . . . . . .603Palomino . . . . . . . . . . . . . .605Ciudad Perdida . . . . . . . . .606La Guajira Peninsula . . . .608Barranquilla . . . . . . . . . . . .609Cartagena . . . . . . . . . . . . . 610Golfo de Urabá . . . . . . . . . 618San Andrés & Providencia . . . . . . . . . . 621Northwest Colombia . . . 623Medellín . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 623Jardín . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .630Santa Fe de Antioquia . . . 632Guatapé . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 632Manizales . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 633Parque Nacional Natural Los Nevados . . . . 635Armenia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .636Salento . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 637Valle de Cocora . . . . . . . . .638

Southwest Colombia . . . 639Cali . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .639Popayán . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .644San Agustín . . . . . . . . . . . . 647Tierradentro . . . . . . . . . . .649Desierto de la Tatacoa . . .650Los Llanos . . . . . . . . . . . 652Amazon Basin . . . . . . . . 654Leticia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .654

ECUADOR . . . . . . . . 672Quito . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 676Northern Highlands . . . 696Mindo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .696Otavalo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .698Ibarra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 702Central Highlands . . . . 703Parque Nacional Cotopaxi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 704Latacunga . . . . . . . . . . . . . 704The Quilotoa Loop . . . . . . 706Baños . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 707Salinas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 711Riobamba . . . . . . . . . . . . . 712Volcán Chimborazo . . . . . 714Southern Highlands . . . 715Cuenca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 715Saraguro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 722Loja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 723Zamora . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 724Parque Nacional Podocarpus . . . . . . . . . . . . 725Vilcabamba . . . . . . . . . . . . 725The Oriente . . . . . . . . . . 727Lago Agrio . . . . . . . . . . . . . 727Reserva Producción Faunística Cuyabeno . . . . 727Coca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 728Tena . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 730Misahuallí . . . . . . . . . . . . . 731Puyo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 733Macas & Around . . . . . . . . 734

Pacific Coast & Lowlands . . . . . . . . . . . . 735Esmeraldas . . . . . . . . . . . . 735Same & Tonchigüe . . . . . . 736Mompiche . . . . . . . . . . . . . 737Canoa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 738Manta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 739Puerto López . . . . . . . . . . . 741Ruta Spondylus . . . . . . . . 743Guayaquil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 747Machala . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 752Galápagos Islands . . . . 753

FRENCH GUIANA . . . 775Cayenne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 778Cacao . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 781Trésor & Kaw Nature Reserves . . . . . . . . 782Kourou . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 782Îles du Salut . . . . . . . . . . . 784St Laurent du Maroni . . . 785Mana & Awala-Yalimopo . . . . . . . . . 788

GUYANA . . . . . . . . . . 793Georgetown . . . . . . . . . . . . 796Northwest Coast . . . . . . . 801Kaieteur National Park . . . . . . . . . .802Iwokrama Rainforest . . . .803North Rupununi . . . . . . . .804South Rupununi . . . . . . . .805

PARAGUAY . . . . . . . . 813Asunción . . . . . . . . . . . . 816Southern Paraguay . . . 825Encarnación . . . . . . . . . . . 825Pilar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .829Jesuit Missions . . . . . . . . .830Parque Nacional San Rafael . . . . . . . . . . . . .830Eastern Paraguay . . . . . 831

ON THE ROAD

Contents

Ciudad del Este . . . . . . . . 831Mbaracayú Biosphere Reserve . . . . . . 833Northern Paraguay . . . . 833Concepción . . . . . . . . . . . . 833Bahía Negra & the Pantanal Paraguayo . . . . .834The Chaco . . . . . . . . . . . 835

PERU . . . . . . . . . . . . . 848Lima . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 852South Coast . . . . . . . . . 868Paracas & the Islas Ballestas . . . . . . . . . .868Ica . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .869Huacachina . . . . . . . . . . . . 871Nazca & Around . . . . . . . . 872Tacna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 874Arequipa & Canyon Country . . . . . . 875Lake Titicaca . . . . . . . . . 885Cuzco & the Sacred Valley . . . . . . . . . 890Cuzco . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .890The Sacred Valley . . . . . . . 901Aguas Calientes . . . . . . . .904Machu Picchu . . . . . . . . . .906The Inca Trail . . . . . . . . . . .909Choquequirao . . . . . . . . . . 911Central Highlands . . . . 912North Coast . . . . . . . . . . 915Trujillo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 915Huanchaco . . . . . . . . . . . .920Chiclayo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 921Piura . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 923Máncora . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 924Huaraz & the Cordilleras . . . . . . . . . . . 927Northern Highlands . . . 934Cajamarca . . . . . . . . . . . . . 934Chachapoyas . . . . . . . . . . 937Kuélap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 939Tarapoto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .940

Amazon Basin . . . . . . . . 942Puerto Maldonado . . . . . .942Parque Nacional Manu . . . 944Pucallpa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 945Yarinacocha . . . . . . . . . . . .946Iquitos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 947Reserva Nacional Pacaya-Samiria . . . . . . . . .950

SURINAME . . . . . . . 964Paramaribo . . . . . . . . . . . . 967Commewijne River . . . . . . 973Upper Suriname River . . . 973Brownsberg Nature Reserve & Brokopondo . . .975Central Suriname Nature Reserve . . . . . . . . . 975Nieuw Nickerie . . . . . . . . . 976Galibi & Coppename Nature Reserves . . . . . . . . 976

URUGUAY . . . . . . . . . 981Montevideo . . . . . . . . . . 984Western Uruguay . . . . . 992Colonia del Sacramento . . . . . . . . . . . . 993Carmelo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 997Mercedes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 997Paysandú . . . . . . . . . . . . . .998Salto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .999Tacuarembó & Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1000Eastern Uruguay . . . . . 1002Piriápolis . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1002Punta del Este . . . . . . . . . 1003Cabo Polonio . . . . . . . . . .1006Punta del Diablo . . . . . . . 1007Parque Nacional Santa Teresa . . . . . . . . . .1008

VENEZUELA . . . . . . 1015Venezuela Today . . . . . . . 1016History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1017

History . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1022

People & Culture . . . . 1029

Directory A–Z . . . . . . . 1034

Transportation . . . . . . 1042

Health . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1049

Language . . . . . . . . . . . 1054

Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1070

Map Legend . . . . . . . . . 1084

SURVIVAL GUIDE

UNDERSTAND

SPECIAL FEATURESFirst Time South America . . . . . . . . 22

Off the Beaten Track Map . . . . . . . . . . . . 38Big Adventures, Small Budgets . . . . . . . . 40Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47

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The Big Loop

This classic South American journey takes in some of the continent’s most famous sites, including Andean peaks, Amazonian rainforest, Machu Picchu, Iguazú Falls and the Galápagos Islands.

Start off in Buenos Aires. Spend several days exploring the mesmerizing Argentine capital. Go west to Bariloche for spectacular scenery then head to Chile’s verdant Lake District at Puerto Varas. Continue north to Santiago, then cross back into Argentina to Córdoba and gorgeous Salta before re-entering Chile at the desert oasis of San Pe-dro de Atacama. Head into Bolivia to experience the surreal Salar de Uyuni. Continue to La Paz and on to Peru via Lake Titicaca. Linger at ancient Cuzco and Machu Pic-chu before going to Lima and on to Ecuador.

From Guayaquil, fly to the Galápagos Islands. Back on the mainland, visit colonial Cuenca and historic Quito. Pass into Colombia to the lush Zona Cafetera and bustling Medellín, then go to Cartagena for Caribbean allure. See beautiful Parque Nacional Natural Tayrona, then head towards Leticia and cross into Brazil. Head to Manaus for a jungle trip. Afterwards fly down to Rio de Janeiro for beaches and nightlife. Visit thundering Iguazú Falls and return to Buenos Aires.

20 WEEKS

31©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

For rugged adventure, unparalleled alpine vistas, rich indigenous cultures and colorful market towns, journey down the Andes from Colombia to Argentina. Along the way, you’ll pass through colonial towns, cloud forests and surreal desert landscapes.

Fly into Bogotá, taking in the old historic center and lively nightlife. Continue south to San Agustín to explore pre-Columbian ruins, and on to Parque Nacional Natural Puracé, for Andean treks. Then go to Pasto and on to the beautifully set Laguna de la Cocha.

Cross into Ecuador and visit Otavalo for markets and day trips to alpine lakes. Head west to Mindo for misty cloud-forest adventures. Continue south through Quito and on to Volcán Cotopaxi for hikes and majestic scenery.

Visit colonial Cuenca, relax in laid-back Vilcabamba, then continue into Peru and down to Huaraz for trekking in the Cordillera Blanca.

Spend a few days in Cuzco, then hike the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu. Head across shimmering Lake Titicaca into Bolivia for more hiking in the Cordillera Real. Con-tinue south to the Salar de Uyuni, before crossing to Argentina by way of the spectacu-lar Quebrada de Humahuaca. In Argentina end the trip at enchanting Mendoza, near massive Cerro Aconcagua, the western hemisphere’s highest peak.

8 WEEKS

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QUITOVolcán Cotopaxi

CerroAconcagua

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Salar de Uyuni

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Mysterious, windswept, glacier-riddled Patagonia is one of South America’s most magi-cal destinations. Patagonia – and the archipelago of Tierra del Fuego – is best visited November through March, and you can see more for less money if you camp.

Start in the outdoors-loving town of Bariloche. Take in the stunning Parque Na-cional Nahuel Huapi and Parque Nacional Lanín. Head south to Esquel, for a taste of the Old Patagonian Express.

Travel west into Chile to the Andean hamlet of Futaleufú for outstanding rafting. Take the scenic Carretera Austral to Coyhaique and visit the caves of Capilla de Már-mol. Head to windswept Chile Chico on Lago General Carrera, then cross into Argen-tina to Los Antiguos.

Bounce down to El Chaltén in spectacular Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, home of the wondrous Glaciar Perito Moreno, near El Calafate.

Cross back into Chile at Puerto Natales to hike beneath the granite spires of Parque Nacional Torres del Paine. Head to Punta Arenas, then south into Argentina’s Tier-ra del Fuego and bottom out at edge-of-the-earth Ushuaia.

Travel north along the Atlantic, stopping for penguins in Área Natural Protegida Punta Tombo and whales in Reserva Faunística Península Valdés. End the trip in Buenos Aires.

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This tough but rewarding journey travels the length of the fabled Amazon, incorporating wildlife-watching, historic cities and beautiful river beaches.

Start in Pucallpa, Peru (a flight or bus ride from Lima). Before hitting the river, spend the night in nearby Yarinacocha, a lovely oxbow lake ringed by tribal villages. From Pucallpa, begin the classic slow riverboat journey north along the Río Ucayali to Iquitos. This northern jungle capital has a buoyant cultural scene and a bustling port, where you can catch a more comfortable cruise into Peru’s largest protected space, Reserva Nacional Pacaya-Samiria. From Iquitos, get a boat to the tri-border region of Peru, Colombia and Brazil, and take a break in Colombia’s Leticia.

From Leticia, it’s three more arduous days to the bustling city of Manaus, which is famed for its 19th-century opera house and buzzing markets. This is also a great base for jungle excursions.

Chug east to Santarém, where you can visit the white-sand beaches of Alter do Chão. Another 3½ days further, and you’ll reach culturally rich Belém, a good spot for sampling traditional Amazonian cuisine.

From here, cross over to Ilha de Marajó, a massive river island dotted with friendly towns, wandering buffaloes and pleasant beaches.

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They’re expensive, they’re hard to reach, they’re largely unpopulated, and they can be very, very captivating. And they’re definitely off the beaten path. Where you start depends on where you’re coming from: Guyana via New York, Cayenne via Paris or Para-maribo via Amsterdam. For the sake of argument, let’s say you’re traveling overland from Brazil.

From Oiapoque in Brazil, cross the border via the new bridge spanning the Rio Oi-apoque into French Guiana. You’re now officially off the beaten track. Make your way by bus across the verdant, forgotten landscape (complete with burned-out cars along the roadside) to Cacao. From here, embark upon the two-day hike along Sentier Molokoï for some wildlife-spotting fun. Then make your way up to Kourou, where you can witness rockets blast off from South America’s only satellite launcher. Take a ferry (or a more comfy catamaran) across shark-infested waters to the Îles du Salut, a former island prison where you can sling up a hammock in the old prison dormitories! Back on the mainland, head up the coast and watch the turtles nesting (April to July only) at Awala-Yalimopo before crossing into Suriname. Hang out for a few days in weirdly wonderful Paramaribo, and set up a tour into the majestic Central Suriname Na-ture Reserve. From Paramaribo, continue west to Nieuw Nickerie, where you cross into Guyana. Head up to Georgetown, and make a detour by boat up to isolated Shell Beach or to see the spectacular Kaieteur Falls. Back in Georgetown, get a bus south across the majestic Rupununi Savannas, stopping in Annai and Lethem to savor the vast isolation.

4 WEEKS

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Colonial towns, Afro-Brazilian culture, gorgeous beaches and buzzing nightlife set the stage for an epic 7400km ramble up the Atlantic coast. Surfing, snorkeling, forest treks and urban exploring are all essential experiences along the way.

Start off in Argentina, spending a few days taking in the charms of Buenos Aires before ferrying over to historic Montevideo. Follow Uruguay’s coastline north through glitzy Punta del Este, dune-fringed Cabo Polonio and the laid-back beach town of Punta del Diablo.

Make your way to Florianópolis, gateway to secluded beaches and stunning scen-ery, then head up to the scenic colonial town of Paraty, and rainforest-covered Ilha Grande. Continue to Rio de Janeiro for pretty beaches, lush scenery and samba-fueled nightlife.

Fly to Porto Seguro and continue to Trancoso and Arraial d’Ajuda – both entic-ing, laid-back towns near cliff-backed beaches. Spend a few days in Salvador, Brazil’s mesmerizing Afro-Brazilian gem. Further up the coast, visit pretty Olinda, then catch a flight from Recife to the spectacular Fernando de Noronha.

Back on the mainland, travel north, stopping at the backpackers’ paradise of Jeri-coacoara and the surreal dunes of Parque Nacional dos Lençóis Maranhenses. The final stops are reggae-charged São Luís and colonial Alcântara.

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SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travelers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-traveled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed-back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

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10671067

OUR READERSMany thanks to the travelers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anec-dotes: Amélie Baechler, Anne Jachmann, Anouk Lubbe, Arthur Châteauvert, Bethan Phillips, Boon Quek, Cain Papettas, Carla Doyle, Catalina Tanasescu, Chris Verrill, Ciarán Ó Súilleabháin, Dominik Hofmann, Elin Lyckestam, Etienne Rompre, Hannah Wallin, Heather Monell, Lisa Howarth, Lucas Liu, Luke Porter, Manuel Gaviria, Marcus Draxler, Marta Alfonsea Zaragoza, Michael Weber, Natasha Walker, Piotr Dziadosz, Reiss Draper & Kaylie McArthur, Susanne Neuenschwander, Zak Hirsch

WRITER THANKSRegis St LouisCountless locals and expats provided help and friendship along the way, and I’m deeply grateful to Cristiano Nogueira, Jackki Saysell, Eduardo Cruxen, Ian Papareskos, Alberto Ar-mendáriz, Bindu Mathur, Tom Lemesurier, Ger-man and Daniel Olano, Michael Nagy, Marcelo Esteves, André Paranhos, Toninho, Kevin Raub, Samantha Aquim, Gilson Martins, Antônia Leite Barbosa, and Lenny Niemeyer. As always heartfelt thanks to Cassandra, Magdalena and Genevieve for their continued support.

Isabel AlbistonHuge thanks to MaSovaida Morgan, Patricio Santos, Cé Martínez, Jessica Pollack, Madi Lang, Miles Lewis, Sorrel Moseley-Williams, Jazmín Arellano, Mercedes Fauda, Lorena Polo, Alan Seabright, Bárbara Poey, Patricia Franco, Nano Aznarez, Maria Elia Capella, Magda Dobrajska and my family. Your insider tips, friendship and support are greatly appre-ciated. Besos for Facundo, Verita, Felipe, Ciro and Lottie and Alice, and special thanks to asadores Marcelo Larroque and Julian Mule – un aplauso!

Gregor ClarkMuchísimas gracias to the many Uruguayans and resident expatriates who shared their love of the country and local knowledge with me, especially Gloria, Tino, Miguel, Monica, Alain, Cecilia, Eduardo, Aaron, Victoria, Karen, Juan Manuel, Nahir and Pedro. Back home, besos y abrazos to Gaen, Meigan and Chloe, who always make coming home the best part of the trip.

Mark JohansonMuchas gracias to all the Chilean and Rapa Nui people who warmed my heart and filled my belly with so much manjar and Carmenere that it was often impossible to work. Thanks to Felipe Bascuñán, Megan Snedden, Vanessa Petersen and Carla Andrade for joining me for portions of the trip and offering expertise.

Behind the Scenes


1068

BEHIN

D THE SCEN

ES

Additional thanks go out to Paula Santa Ana, Franz Schubert, Grant Phelps, Gonzalo Silva and Sandra Luz La Torre for being fountains of knowledge along the way.

Anna KaminskiHuge thanks to Bailey for entrusting me with half of this beguiling country, to my fellow scribe Brendan and to everyone who’s helped me along the way. In particular: Jose and the Graffiti Tour folks in Medellin; Tony in Popayán, Soledad; and the mountain biking folk of Salento; Kolibri Hostel in Pereira; Glo-ria in Guatape; Finca El Maco and Pacho in San Agustín; plus the driver who successfully navigated the Trampolin de la Muerte.

Brian KluepfelMy wife Paula Paz, who is always with me, even when we are apart. My editor Bailey, for putting up with all the silly WhatsApp photos. My amigo para siempre Goyo, a voice of reason in traveling tempests. My Lonely plan-et colleagues Neill and Cheree for overseas cheer. My family, who don’t like me doing this, but nonetheless pray for me. For every bus driver in Ecuador: I wouldn’t have made it without you guys!

Tom MastersHuge thanks to the cast of colourful charac-ters in three countries that helped me with research, but in particular to Amarylis Lewis at Wilderness Expeditions, Candace Phillips at Visit Rupununi, Charlie and Christian in Georgetown, Celeste Brash and Anna Kamin-ski, Oren Jarvis, Ayla Kenyon, Sebastian De-Freitas, Kayla DeFreitas, Leroy Ignacio, Colin Edwards and Erienne Hynes-Lourens.

Brendan SainsburyMuchas gracias to all the skilled bus drivers, helpful tourist information staff, generous

hotel owners, expert arepa makers, and inno-cent passersby who helped me, unwittingly or otherwise, during my research trip. Special thanks to my wife, Liz for joining me on the road in Cartagena and Santa Marta.

Paul SmithThanks to my family Carol, Shawn and Ewan for their patience with me being away. Karina Atkinson and Joe Sarvary in Pilar and Irma Ramírez in Sta Maria de Fe were extremely helpful. Bailey Freeman was always quick with replies to my questions. Special thanks also for the great social and conservation work being done by Para La Tierra, Santa Maria Education Fund, Pro Cosara, Guyra Paraguay and FMB to make Paraguay a bet-ter place to live and visit.

Luke WatersonCombining a huge capital like Quito with the Andes, Amazon and Galápagos in one research trip is an endeavour – and I couldn’t have done it without the help of Mark Thurb-er in Quito, Fausto Andi in Coca, Matt Terry in Tena and Tony Lloyd in Cuenca. Thanks to the unnamed bus drivers, taxi drivers, speedboat and canoe operators, pilots and administrative assistants at umpteen hotels, restaurants and other businesses that eased the passage by providing me with insightful information.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrol-ogy and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633-44.Cover photograph: Llama, Peru, Agatha Kadar/Shutterstock ©

1069BEH

IND TH

E SCENES

THIS BOOKThis 14th edition of Lonely Planet’s South America guidebook was researched and written by Regis St Louis, Isabel Albiston, Robert Balk-ovich, Celeste Brash, Jade Bremner, Cathy Brown, Gregor Clark, Alex Egerton, Michael Grosberg, Anthony Ham, Mark Johanson, Anna Kaminski, Brian Kluepfel, Tom Masters, Carolyn McCarthy, MaSovaida Morgan, Anja Mutić, Kevin Raub, Brendan Sainsbury, Adam Skolnick, Paul Smith,

Andy Symington, Phillip Tang, Luke Waterson and Wendy Yanagihara. It was curated by Regis St Louis, Isabel Albiston, Celeste Brash, Bailey Freeman and Brendan Sainsbury. This guidebook was produced by the following:Destination Editor Bailey FreemanSenior Product Editor Saralinda TurnerRegional Senior Cartographer Corey HutchisonProduct Editor Sandie Kestell

Book Designer Mazzy Prinsep Assisting Editors Sarah Bailey, Michelle Bennett, Nigel Chin, Joel Cotterell, Barbara Delissen, Carly Hall, Gabrielle Innes, Jodie Martire, Lou McGregor, Alison Morris, Lau-ren O’Connell, Charlotte Orr, Monique Perrin, Sam WheelerAssisting Cartographers Mick Garrett, Valentina KremenchutskayaCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Melanie Dankel, Amy Lynch, Claire Rourke

1070

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

ABBREVIATIONSArg ArgentinaBol BoliviaBra BrazilChi ChileCol ColombiaEcu EcuadorFG French GuianaGuy GuyanaPar ParaguayPer PeruSur SurinameUru Uruguay

Aaccessible travel 1034, see

also individual countriesaccommodations 22, 1034-5,

see also individual cities, individual countries

activities 25-6, 27-30, 40-6, 47-54, see also individual activities, individual countries

Achupallas (Ecu) 721Aguas Calientes (Per) 904-

6, 905air passes 1044air travel 1042-3, 1044

to/from Argentina 197to/from Bolivia 297to/from Brazil 441to/from Chile 568to/from Colombia 670to/from Ecuador 772to/from French

Guiana 792to/from Guyana 811to/from Paraguay 846to/from Peru 962to/from Suriname 980to/from Uruguay 1014

within Argentina 197within Bolivia 297within Brazil 442within Chile 569within Colombia 671within Ecuador 772within French Guiana 792within Guyana 811-12within Paraguay 846within Peru 962-3within Suriname 980

Alausí (Ecu) 715Alcântara (Bra) 405Aleijadinho 344, 347, 431Algodoal (Bra) 414Allende, Isabel 562Allende, Salvador 451, 560Alta Gracia (Arg) 116-17Alter do Chão (Bra) 417-18altitude sickness 1052Altos de Lircay (Chi) 506Amazon Basin 11, 34, 11

Bolivia 275-84, 276-7Brazil 424-5, 40Colombia 654-9Peru 942-51

Ancud (Chi) 532-4Andes, the 32animal bites 1052animals, see wildlife-

watching, individual species

Antarctica 185Anticura (Chi) 523Antofagasta (Chi) 484-5archaeological sites, see

also Inca sitesAyacucho (Per) 912-15Buenos Aires (Arg) 69Chan Chan (Per) 919Ciudad Perdida (Col)

606-7El Fósil (Col) 591El Fuerte (Bol) 273Huaraz (Per) 928Iquique area (Chi) 497-8

Kuélap (Per) 939-40Las Huacas del Sol y de la

Luna (Per) 919-20Lima (Per) 855Nazca Lines (Per) 872-3Parque Nacional Rapa Nui

(Chi) 558-9Quilmes (Arg) 126San Agustín (Col) 647-8San Ignacio Miní (Arg)

106Tafí del Valle (Arg) 121Tierradentro (Col) 650Tilcara (Arg) 132Tiwanaku (Bol) 218-19Túcume (Per) 923Uspallata (Arg) 147

architectureBrazil 431colonial 24Ecuador 765

Área Natural Protegida Punta Tombo (Arg) 172

Areguá (Par) 823Arequipa (Per) 875-83, 876,

878-9Argentina 55, 60-198, 62,

88, 112, 141, 152accommodations 60,

192, 193activities 192arts 189-90bathrooms 196border crossings 99, 104,

106, 109, 133, 173budgeting 61business hours 195climate 60consulates 193costs 193, 194-5culture 188-9currency 194-5cycling 197drinks 61, 190-1electricity 192-3embassies 193environment 191-2

exchange rates 61food 60, 61, 190, 193gay travelers 194health 193highlights 62history 186-8hitchhiking 198holidays 195-6indigenous peoples 188-9inflation 194internet access 193-4internet resources 61itineraries 61language 194legal matters 194LGBT+ travelers 194local transportation 198money 194-5music 190national parks 192opening hours 195politics 186population 188-9postal services 195religion 189safety 196sports 191telephone services 196toilets 196tourist information 196tours 198travel seasons 60travel to/from 197travel within 197-8vacations 195-6visas 196volunteering 196-7weather 60wildlife 191-2women travelers 197work 197

Arica (Chi) 498-500Armenia (Col) 636-7Arraial d’Ajuda (Bra) 386-7arts, see individual arts,

individual countries


1071IN

DEX A

–B

Assis, Joaquim Maria Machado de 432

Asunción (Par) 816-22, 820-1, 818-19

accommodations 817-19drinking & nightlife 821entertainment 821, events 817festivals 817medical services 821money 822safety 821shopping 821tourist information 822tours 817travel to/from 822travel within 822

Atacama Desert (Chi) 14, 490, 491, 15

Atacames (Ecu) 736Atins (Bra) 408ATMs 1036-7Awala-Yalimopo (FG) 788-9Ayacucho (Per) 912-15Ayampe (Ecu) 743-5Aymará language 1063Aymará New Year 219

BBachelet, Michelle 561Bahía Blanca (Arg) 138-9Bahía de Caráquez (Ecu)

739Bahía Inglesa (Chi) 484Bahía Negra (Par) 834-5Bañado la Estrella (Arg) 104Baños (Ecu) 707-11,

708, 45bargaining 23, 1037Barichara (Col) 596-7Bariloche (Arg) 157-61, 158Barra (Bra) 375Barranquilla (Col) 609-10Barreirinhas (Bra) 408bathrooms 1040, see also

individual countriesbeaches 25, 41

Algodal (Bra) 414Alter do Chão (Bra) 417Arica (Chi) 498Arraial d’Ajuda (Bra) 386Atacames (Ecu) 736Awala-Yalimopo (FG) 788Bahía Inglesa (Chi) 484Baia do Sancho (Bra)

392Búzios (Bra) 327Cabo de la Vele (Col)

608-9

Cabo San Juan del Guía (Col) 604

Canoa (Ecu) 738Canoa Quebrada (Bra)

398Capurganá (Col) 619Commewijne River

(Sur) 973Encarnación (Par) 825Fortaleza (Bra) 399Ilha de Marajó (Bra)

414-15Ilha do Mel (Bra) 351Ilha Grande (Bra) 329Iquique (Chi) 493-514Itacaré (Bra) 383-4Jericoacoara (Bra) 401-2La Serena (Chi) 474Maceió (Bra) 388Máncora (Per) 924-5Manta (Ecu) 740Mompiche (Ecu) 737Natal (Bra) 396Palomino (Col) 605Parque Nacional Marinho

de Fernando de Noronha (Bra) 392

Parque Nacional Natural Tayrona (Col) 603

Pichilemu (Chi) 502-3Pinamar (Arg) 137Playa Blanca (Col) 617Porto Seguro (Bra) 385Praia da Pipa (Bra) 395Providencia (Col) 623Puerto Ayora (Ecu) 757Puerto Baquerizo

Moreno (Ecu) 759Punta del Diablo (Uru)

1007Punta del Este (Uru)

1003Rémire-Montjoly (FG)

783Rio de Janeiro (Bra) 305Same (Ecu) 736-7Sapzurro (Col) 619Shell Beach (Guy) 801Trancoso (Bra) 387Villa Gesell (Arg) 136

Belém (Bra) 409-14, 412, 35

Belo Horizonte (Bra) 341-4bicycle travel, see cyclingBiocentro Güembé (Bol)

269bird-watching

Área Natural Protegida Punta Tombo (Arg) 172

Ayampe (Ecu) 744

Bahía de Caráquez (Ecuu) 739

Bonito (Bra) 372Chaco, the (Par) 835Foz do Iguaçu (Bra) 358Isla Isabela (Ecu) 759-60Islas Ballestas (Per)

868-9Mbaracayú Biosphere

Reserve (Par) 833Minca (Col) 603Mindo (Ecu) 697Parque Nacional Lauca

(Chi) 501Parque Nacional Madidi

(Bol) 281Parque Nacional San

Rafael (Par) 830Parque Nacional Torres

del Paine (Chi) 552Peperpot Nature Park

(Sur) 973Santa Cruz (Bol) 269

boat travel 1043-4, 1045to/from Argentina 197to/from Ecuador 772to/from French Guiana

792to/from Paraguay 846to/from Peru 962to/from Suriname 980to/from Uruguay 1014within Bolivia 297-8within Brazil 442within Chile 569within Ecuador 772-3within French Guiana

792within Guyana 812within Paraguay 847within Peru 963within Suriname 980

Bogotá (Col) 574-87, 576-7accommodations 578-80courses 575drinking & nightlife

582-4entertainment 584events 578festivals 578food 580-2safety 585shopping 584sights 574-5tourist information 584tours 575-8travel to/from 585-7travel within 587

Bolívar, Simón 611, 660, 1018, 1026

Bolivia 55, 199-299, 202-3, 233

accommodations 199, 292

activities 292arts 289-90border crossings 200,

223, 242, 244, 249, 275business hours 294climate 199consulates 292-3costs 200culture 288-91currency 200economy 284-5electricity 292embassies 292-3environment 290-1exchange rates 200food 199, 200, 293gay travelers 293-4health 293highlights 202-3history 284-8holidays 295indigenous peoples 288internet access 293internet resources 200itineraries 200legal matters 293LGBT+ travelers 293-4maps 294money 294national parks &

reserves 291opening hours 294politics 286-8population 289postal services 295religion 289safety 295sports 290telephone services 295tourist information 295-6travel seasons 199travel to/from 296-7travel within 297vacations 295visas 296volunteering 296weather 199wildlife 291wineries 250work 296-7

Bonito (Bra) 371-3books 21, see also

literature, individual countries

history 1024, 1025, 1027

1072

IND

EX B–

C

border crossings 1043Argentina-Bolivia 133Argentina-Brazil 99, 109Argentina-Chile 173Argentina-Paraguay 104,

106, 109Bolivia-Argentina 244,

249Bolivia-Brazil 275Bolivia-Chile 242Bolivia-Peru 223Brazil-Bolivia 372, 426,

427Brazil-Colombia 423Brazil-Guyana 421Brazil-Peru 423, 427Chile-Argentina 545Chile-Bolivia 492, 500Chile-Peru 500Colombia-Brazil 657Colombia-Ecuador 652Colombia-Panama 620Colombia-Peru 657Ecuador-Colombia 703Ecuador-Peru 724, 726,

729, 753French Guiana-Brazil

788French Guiana-Suriname

787Guyana-Brazil 807Guyana-Suriname 801Paraguay-Argentina 822,

828, 830Paraguay-Bolivia 836Paraguay-Brazil 832Peru-Bolivia 889, 946Peru-Brazil 946, 950Peru-Chile 875Peru-Colombia 950Peru-Ecuador 925Suriname-French Guiana

971Suriname-Guyana 976Uruguay-Argentina 992Uruguay-Brazil 1009

Borges, Jorge Luis 189Bouterse, Desiré 976-7Brasília (Bra) 362-4, 363Brazil 56, 300-443, 302-3,

328, 348, 361, 374, 410-11

accessible travel 435accommodations 300,

435

arts 431-2bathrooms 439border crossings 372,

421, 423, 426, 427, 441-2

business hours 438climate 300consulates 436costs 301culture 430-1currency 438drinks 301economy 430electricity 435embassies 436environment 433-5exchange rates 301food 300, 301, 338,

436-7fraud 439gay travelers 438health 437highlights 302-3history 428-30hitchhiking 443holidays 438-9indigenous peoples 428internet access 437internet resources 301itineraries 301language courses 437-8legal matters 438LGBT+ travelers 438maps 438money 438music 432-3national parks 434opening hours 438politics 427-8, 430population 430public holidays 438-9religion 431responsible travel 439safety 439sports 433telephone services 439toilets 439tourist information 439tours 443travel to/from 441-2travel within 339, 442-3vacations 438-9visas 439-40volunteering 440weather 300wildlife 433-4women travelers 440work 440-1

breweriesSanta Fe (Arg) 94Valdivia (Chi) 519Vicuña (Chi) 479

Brokopondo (Sur) 975Brownsberg Nature

Reserve (Sur) 975Bucaramanga (Col) 598-9budgeting 21, 42-6,

see also individual countries

Buenos Aires (Arg) 12, 63-86, 64, 66-7, 76-7, 13

accommodations 72-5activities 71courses 71-2drinking & nightlife 79-81entertainment 81-3events 72festivals 72food 75-9safety 83shopping 83sights 63-71tourist information 84-5tours 72travel to/from 84, 85-6travel within 86

bus travel 1043, 1045-6, see also travel within under individual cities

to/from Argentina 197to/from Bolivia 297to/from Brazil 441-2to/from Chile 568to/from Peru 962to/from Uruguay 1014within Argentina 197-8within Bolivia 298within Brazil 442within Chile 569within Colombia 671within Ecuador 773within Guyana 812within Paraguay 847within Peru 963within Suriname 980within Uruguay 1014

business hours, see individual countries

Búzios (Bra) 327-9

CCaacupé (Par) 823Cabanaconde (Per) 884-5Cabo de la Vela (Col)

608-9Cabo Polonio (Uru) 1006-7Cacao (FG) 781-2

Cachagua (Chi) 473Cachi (Arg) 125-6Cafayate (Arg) 122-5, 123Cajamarca (Per) 934-7,

935Cajón del Maipo (Chi) 463-5Calama (Chi) 485-6Caleta Tortel (Chi) 544Cali (Col) 639-44, 640Campo Grande (Bra) 370-1Caño Cristales (Col) 652-4Canoa (Ecu) 738-9Canoa Quebrada (Bra) 398Cañon del Chicamocha

(Col) 597-8Cañón Del Colca (Per)

883-5canyoning

Cuenca (Ecu) 718Esquel (Arg) 164Jardín (Col) 631Puerto Varas (Chi) 524

Capilla del Monte (Arg) 116Capurganá (Col) 619car & motorcycle travel

to/from Bolivia 297to/from Chile 569to/from Peru 962within Argentina 198within Bolivia 298within Brazil 442-3within Chile 569within Colombia 671within Ecuador 773within French Guiana 792within Guyana 812within Paraguay 847within Peru 963within Suriname 980within Uruguay 1014

Caraíva (Bra) 387Carmelo (Uru) 997Carnaval 27

Cajamarca (Per) 935Cayenne (FG) 778Circuito de Oro (Par) 823Encarnación (Par) 19, 27,

825, 19Gualeguaychú (Arg) 98Montevideo (Uru) 989Olinda (Bra) 393Oruro (Bol) 236Paraguay 823Quito (Ecu) 682Recife (Bra) 390Rio de Janeiro (Bra)

311, 7Salvador (Bra) 377


1073IN

DEX C

Carretera Austra (Chi) 538, 539

Cartagena (Col) 17, 610-17, 612-13, 17

Castro (Chi) 534-6Catarata de Gocta (Per)

939caves

Caverna de los Guácharos (Col) 631

Cueva de los Tayos (Ecu) 734-5

Cueva del Esplendor (Col) 630

Gruta de San Pedro (Bol) 231

Roteiro da Caverna Aroe Jari e Lagoa Azul (Bra) 369

Cayenne (FG) 778-81, 780-1

cell phones 20, 1040, see also telephone services under individual countries

Central Suriname Nature Reserve (Sur) 16, 975-6, 16

Cerro de Monserrate (Col) 575

Cerro Pan de Azúcar (Uru) 1002

Chachapoyas (Per) 937-9Chaco, the (Par) 835-8Chan Chan (Per) 919Chávez, Hugo 1016, 1020Chiclayo (Per) 921-3children, travel with 1035Chile 56, 444-569, 446,

475, 487, 503, 539accommodations 444,

565activities 565arts 562-3border crossings 445,

492, 500, 545, 568-9business hours 567climate 444consulates 565-6costs 445culture 561-2currency 445cycling 569embassies 565-6environment 563-5exchange rates 445food 444, 563, 566gay travelers 566health 566highlights 446history 559-61

holidays 567indigenous peoples 523insurance 566internet access 566internet resources 445itineraries 445language 452legal matters 566LGBT+ travelers 566maps 566money 567national parks 564-5opening hours 567politics 559, 561population 562postal services 567public holidays 567safety 567sports 563telephone services 567-8toilets 568tourist information 568travel seasons 444travel to/from 568-9travel within 569vacations 567visas 568volunteering 568weather 444

Chile Chico (Chi) 544Chilean miners 482, 502Chillán (Chi) 505-6Chiloé (Chi) 532-8, 533Chivay (Per) 883-4Choquequirao (Per) 911-12Chordeleg (Ecu) 722Chugchilán (Ecu) 706Chulumani (Bol) 229-30Chuqui (Chi) 486Chuquicamata (Chi) 486-8cinema, see filmCircuito de Oro (Par) 822-3Ciudad del Este (Par)

831-2Ciudad Perdida (Col) 606-7climate 20, 27-30, see

also individual countries

climbing 51Baños (Ecu) 708-9Cordillera Real (Bol) 230Huaraz (Per) 930La Paz (Bol) 205-6Mendoza (Arg) 143, 144Parque Nacional

Cotopaxi (Ecu) 704Parque Nacional Nevado

Tres Cruces (Chi) 483Pucón (Chi) 515

Rio de Janeiro (Bra) 309Volcán Chimborazo (Ecu)

714-15Volcán Cotopaxi (Ecu)

704clothing 22coca 228Coca (Ecu) 728-30Cochabamba (Bol) 251-6,

252Cochrane (Chi) 544Coelho, Paulo 432Coimata (Bol) 250Colán (Per) 926Colchagua Valley (Chi) 502Colombia 56, 570-671,

572-3accessible travel 664accommodations 570,

664-5activities 665arts 663-4border crossings 620,

652, 657business hours 667climate 570consulates 665costs 571culture 662-3currency 667electricity 665embassies 665environment 664etiquette 667-8exchange rates 571food 570, 571, 665-6gay travelers 666-7health 666highlights 572-3history 659-62holidays 667internet access 666internet resources 571itineraries 571language courses 666legal matters 666LGBT+ travelers 666-7maps 667money 667music 663opening hours 667politics 659postal services 667public holidays 667responsible travel 667-8safety 668sports 664telephone services

668-9

tourist information 669travel to/from 670-1travel within 671vacations 667visas 669volunteering 669weather 570women travelers 669-70work 670

Colonia del Sacramento (Uru) 18, 993-6, 994-5, 19

Commewijne River (Sur) 973

Comodoro Rivadavia (Arg) 172

Concepción (Chi) 506-8Concepción (Par) 833-5consulates 1035, see also

individual countriescooking courses

Arequipa (Per) 879Cuzco (Per) 894Puerto López (Ecu) 742Rio de Janeiro (Bra)

308-9Valparaíso (Chi) 467

Copacabana (Bol) 219-23, 222

Copiapó (Chi) 482-4Coppename Nature

Reserve (Sur) 976Cordillera de los Frailes

(Bol) 263-4Cordilleras, the

Bolivia 226-32Peru 927-34, 927

Córdoba (Arg) 111-16, 114, 43

Coroico (Bol) 226-9Coronel Bogado (Par) 825Correa, Rafael 760, 764Corrientes (Arg) 100-2Corumbá (Bra) 373Cotacachi (Ecu) 702Cosquín (Arg) 117costs 21, 40-6, see also

individual countriescourses, see cooking

courses, dance classes, langauge courses, individual cities

Coyhaique (Chi) 541-3credit cards 1037, see also

money under individual countries

crime, see safetyCruz del Cóndor (Per) 884Cuenca (Ecu) 715-21,

716-17

1074

IND

EX C–

F

Cuiabá (Bra) 367-9culture, see individual

countriesCurarrehue (Chi) 518Curicó (Chi) 504Curitiba (Bra) 348-50currency, see individual

countriescustoms regulations 1035Cuzco (Per) 890-9, 892

accommodations 895-6activities 893-4courses 894drinking & nightlife 897entertainment 897events 895festivals 895food 896-7history 891medical services 898safety 898shopping 897-8sights 891-3tourist information 898tours 894-5travel to/from 898travel within 899

cycling 1044-5, see also mountain biking

La Paz (Bol) 204-5Lima (Per) 855Paramaribo (Sur) 969Quito (Ecu) 681Riobamba (Ecu) 713Ruta de las Cascadas

(Ecu) 709Tafí del Valle (Arg) 122

DDalcahue (Chi) 537dance classes

Buenos Aires (Arg) 71-2Cali (Col) 639, 641Córdoba (Arg) 113Medellín (Col) 625Montevideo (Uru) 985Quito (Ecu) 681Rio de Janeiro (Bra) 309Salvador (Bra) 377

dangers, see safetydengue fever 1050Desierto de la Tatacoa

(Col) 650-1dinosaurs 151, 171, 251

disabilities, travelers with, see accessible travel

Dirty War 187discount cards 1035diseases 1050-2diving

Bonito (Bra) 371-2Capurganá (Col) 619Cartagena (Col) 611Fernando de Noronha

(Bra) 392Hanga Roa (Chi) 557Puerto Ayora (Ecu) 757Puerto Baquerizo

Moreno (Ecu) 759Puerto López (Ecu) 742San Andrés (Col) 621-2Taganga (Col) 606

dog sledding (Chi) 513drinking, see individual

citiesdrinks, see individual

countriesdriving, see car &

motorcycle traveldrugging 1038drugs, see legal matters

under individual countries, see also individual drugs

Dunas de Genipabu (Bra) 396-8

Eearthquakes 1038Easter Island (Chi) 556-9,

557, 25economyEcuador 56, 672-774,

674-5accessible travel 767accommodations 672,

767activities 767arts 765bathrooms 770border crossings 703,

724, 726, 729, 753business hours 769climate 672consulates 767-8costs 673culture 764-5currency 673economy 761-2electricity 767embassies 767-8environment 766-74exchange rates 673food 672

gay travelers 769health 768highlights 674-5history 762-4holidays 770indigenous peoples 763internet access 769internet resources 673itineraries 673language 769legal matters 769LGBT+ travelers 769money 769national parks 766opening hours 769politics 760-2, 763-4population 764public holidays 770religion 765safety 770telephone services 770toilets 770tourist information 770tours 773-4travel seasons 672travel to/from 772travel within 772-4vacations 770visas 770-1volunteering 771weather 672wildlife 766women travelers 771-2

El Bolsón (Arg) 162-3El Calafate (Arg) 175-9, 176El Chaltén (Arg) 173-5El Chato Tortoise Reserve

(Ecu) 758El Gigante de Atacama

(Chi) 497El Tatio (Chi) 493El Valle de la Concepción

(Bol) 250electricity 1035, see


Elqui Valley (Chi) 479-82embassies 1035, see also

individual countriesEncarnación (Par) 19, 825-

8, 826, 19, 45Ensenada (Chi) 528entertainment, see

individual citiesenvironmental hazards

1052-3, see also health under individual countries

Esmeraldas (Ecu) 735-6Esquel (Arg) 164-5

etiquette 23events 27-30, see also

individual citiesexchange rates, see

individual countries

FFalklands War 187-8FARC 585, 659, 661, 662,

668, 770Fernando de Noronha

(Bra) 392Ferreñafe (Per) 923ferries, see boat travelfestivals 27-30, 41, see also

Carnaval, individual cities

film 30, 135, 137Fiesta de la Virgen de

Candelaria 27, 220Filadelfia (Par) 836film

Argentina 189Brazil 431-2Chile 562-3festivals 30, 135, 137

fishingCoyhaique (Chi) 541Futaleufú (Chi) 540Mar del Plata (Arg) 134Parque Nacional Lanín

(Arg) 154Río Gallegos (Arg) 179Villa Gesell (Arg) 136

Floresta Nacional do Tapajós (Bra) 416-17

Florianópolis (Bra) 351-5food 1035-6, see also

cooking courses, individual cities, individual countries

football, see soccerFormosa (Arg) 104Fortaleza (Bra) 398-401,

400-1Foz do Iguaçu (Bra) 358-

61, 359, 2Fray Bentos (Uru) 998French Guiana 57, 775-

92, 777accommodations 775,

790activities 790border crossings 787,

788business hours 791climate 775consulates 790costs 776culture 789-90


1075IN

DEX F–

I currency 776electricity 790embassies 790environment 790food 775health 790highlights 777history 789holidays 791internet access 790internet resources 776itineraries 776language 791maps 791money 791opening hours 791politics 789postal services 791public holidays 791safety 791telephone services 791tourist information 791travel seasons 775travel to/from 792travel within 792vacations 791visas 791-2weather 775

Frutillar (Chi) 524Futaleufú (Chi) 540-1

GGaiman (Arg) 172Galápagos Islands (Ecu)

42, 753-60, 754, 25Galibi Nature Reserve

(Sur) 976gay travelers 1036, see also

individual countriesGeorgetown (Guy) 796-

801, 798-9accommodations 797drinking & nightlife 800food 797-800safety 800sights 796tourist information 800tours 796-7travel to/from 800-1travel within 801

Glaciar Perito Moreno (Arg) 17, 179, 17

Golfo de Urabá (Col) 618-21

Gran Chiquitania (Bol) 268-75

Guajará-Mirim (Bra) 426Gualaceo (Ecu) 722Gualeguaychú (Arg) 98

Guaranda (Ecu) 711Guatapé (Col) 632-3Guayaquil (Ecu) 747-52,

748guerillas, see FARC,

Sendero LuminosoGuevara, Ernesto ‘Che’ 117,

154, 486Guyana 57, 793-812, 795



807business hours 810climate 793consulates 809-10costs 794culture 808-9currency 794electricity 809embassies 809-10environment 809exchange rates 794food 793gay travelers 810health 810highlights 795history 808internet access 810internet resources 794itineraries 794LGBT+ travelers 810money 810opening hours 810politics 807-8postal services 810public holidays 810-11safety 811telephone services 811tourist information 811travel seasons 793travel to/from 811travel within 811-12vacations 810-11visas 811weather 793women travelers 811

Guyanese Space Center 782-3

HHanga Roa (Chi) 556-8hang-gliding 53health 1049-53, see


heatstroke 1052

Hepatitis A 1050hiking 26, 42, 48-9

Arequipa (Per) 877-8Baños (Ecu) 708Barichara (Col) 596Bogotá (Col) 575Capurganá (Col) 619Chachapoyas (Per) 937-8Chivay (Per) 884Choquequirao (Per)

911-12Cuzco (Per) 894El Chaltén (Arg) 173-4Futaleufú (Chi) 540Huaraz (Per) 928-30Ilha de Santa Catarina

(Bra) 353Inca Trail (Per) 909-11Ingapirca (Ecu) 721Isla Navarino (Chi) 555La Paz (Bol) 205, 205-6Lagunas de Mojanda

(Ecu) 701Lençóis (Bra) 381-2Machu Picchu (Per)

908-9Mendoza (Arg) 144Parque Nacional da

Chapada Diamantina (Bra) 381

Parque Nacional da Tijuca (Bra) 309

Parque Nacional Huascarán (Per) 934

Parque Nacional Natural El Cocuy (Col) 592-3

Parque Nacional Torres del Paine (Chi) 552-4

Parque Provincial Aconcagua (Arg) 148

Parque Provincial Ernesto Tornquist (Arg) 140

Pucón (Chi) 514Puerto Natales (Chi) 549Quilotoa Loop (Ecu)

706, 42Reserva Nacional Radal

Siete Tazas (Chi) 506Rio de Janeiro (Bra) 309Ruta de los Siete Lagos

(Arg) 155Salta (Arg) 126-7Sorata (Bol) 231Sucre (Bol) 260

history 1022-8, see also individual countries

books 1024, 1025, 1027hitchhiking 1047

Argentina 198Bolivia 298-9

Brazil 443Ecuador 773

holidays, see individual countries

Horcón (Chi) 473horse riding

Barra de Valizas (Uru) 1006

Colonia Suiza (Uru) 993Parque Nacional Torres

del Paine (Chi) 554Pucón (Chi) 516Puerto Natales (Chi)

549San Agustín (Col) 648San Pedro de Atacama

(Chi) 490Sierra de Rocha (Uru)

1005Urubamba (Per) 902Vilcabamba (Ecu) 725-6

hot springsBaños (Ecu) 707-Pucón (Chi) 516Salto (Uru) 1000Tarapaya (Bol) 268Termas Aguas Calientes

(Chi) 523Termas de Papallacta

(Ecu) 696Termas de Polques

(Bol) 243Termas de Puritama

(Chi) 493Termas de Socos (Chi)

478Termas Jurasi (Chi) 501Valle Hermoso (Chi) 506

Huacachina (Per) 871Huanchaco (Per) 920-1Huaraz (Per) 927-33, 928-

9, 930Huilliche people 523Humahuaca (Arg) 133-4Humala, Ollanta 953Humberstone (Chi) 495hypothermia 1052

IIbarra (Ecu) 702-3Ica (Per) 869-71Iguazú Falls

Argentina 14, 110-11, 14Brazil 358

Îles du Salut (FG) 784-5Ilha de Marajó (Bra) 414-15Ilha de Santa Catarina

(Bra) 351-5, 352Ilha do Mel (Bra) 350-1Ilha Grande (Bra) 329-31

1076

IND

EX I–L

Ilhéus (Bra) 384-5Inca empire 1023Inca sites, see also

archaeological sitesCajamarca (Per) 934-5Cuzco (Per) 893Ingapirca (Ecu) 721-2Machu Picchu (Per) 11,

906-9, 907, 11Ollantaytambo (Per) 903Pisac (Per) 901-2Saqsaywamán (Per)

899-901Tambomachay (Per) 901

Inca Trail Ecuador 721Peru 909-11, 910-11

indigenous peoples 1030Argentina 188-9Bolivia 289Brazil 428Chile 523Ecuador 763Peru 954

infectious diseases 1050-2Ingapirca (Ecu) 721-2insect bites 1052insurance 1036

car 1046health 1049

internet access 1036, see also individual countries

internet resources 21, 1034, 1049-50, see also individual countries

Inti Raymi 28Iquique (Chi) 493-7,

494, 52Iquitos (Per) 947-50,

948, 35Isinliví (Ecu) 706Isla de la Plata (Ecu) 743Isla de los Pájaros (Arg) 170Isla del Sol (Bol) 223-6,

224Isla Floreana (Ecu) 760Isla Isabela (Ecu) 759-60Isla Navarino (Chi) 555-6Isla Negra (Chi) 470Isla Quinchao (Chi) 537Isla San Cristóbal (Ecu)

758-9Isla Santa Cruz (Ecu) 756-8Isla Taquile (Per) 890

Islas Ballestas (Per) 868-9Islas del Rosario (Col) 617Islas Uros (Per) 890, 13Itacaré (Bra) 383Itagipe Peninsula (Bra)

376-7Itaipú Dam (Par) 832-3Itauguá (Par) 823itineraries 31-9, 31, 32, 33,

34, 36, 37Argentina 61Bolivia 200Brazil 301Chile 445Colombia 571Ecuador 673French Guiana 776Guyana 794Paraguay 814Peru 849Suriname 965Uruguay 982

Iwokrama Rainforest (Guy) 803-4

JJamaraquá (Bra) 416-17Jardín (Col) 630-1Jericoacoara (Bra) 401-5Jesuit missions

Bolivia 274-5Brazil 355Paraguay 830

Jesús María (Arg) 116Joanes (Bra) 415Jones, Jim 802Jonestown Massacre 802Jujuy (Arg) 130-1Juliaca (Per) 885jungle tours 41-2

Amazon, the (Bra) 424-5Colombia 654Leticia (Col) 656Parque Nacional Iguazú

(Arg) 110-11Rurrenabaque 277, 280

Junín de los Andes (Arg) 153-4

KKabalebo (Sur) 975Kaieteur National Park

(Guy) 802-3Kaw Nature Reserve (FG)

782kayaking

Bariloche (Arg) 157Castro (Chi) 535

Corrientes (Arg) 101Futaleufú (Chi) 540, 52Parque Nacional Torres

del Paine (Chi) 554Pilar (Par) 829Pucón (Chi) 515, 516Punta Arenas (Chi) 547

kidnapping 1038Kirchner, Cristina 186, 1028Kirchner, Néstor 188kitesurfing 404, 609, 611Kourou (FG) 782-4Kuélap (Per) 939-40

LLa Guajira Peninsula (Col)

608-9La Paloma (Uru) 1007La Paz (Bol) 201-18, 206,

210-11accommodations 207-9activities 204-7courses 207drinking & nightlife 213-14entertainment 214festivals 207food 211-13laundry 215medical services 216safety 215shopping 214-15sights 201-4tourist information 217tours 207travel to/from 216,

217-18travel within 218

La Pedrera (Uru) 1007La Punta (Per) 861La Quiaca (Arg) 133La Rioja (Arg) 117-19La Serena (Chi) 474-9, 476La Violencia 660-1Lago Agrio (Ecu) 727Lago Calafquén (Chi) 519Lago General Carrera (Chi)

543-4Lago Nahuel Huapi (Arg)

162Laguna Parón (Per) 933Laguna Quilotoa (Ecu) 707Lagunas de Kari Kari

(Bol) 268Lagunas de Mojanda

(Ecu) 701Lake Titicaca 12

Bolivia 219-26, 220Peru 885-90, 878-9,

2, 13

Lakes District (Chi) 508-32, 510-11

Lambayeque (Per) 923language courses 1036

Arequipa (Per) 879Asunción (Par) 817Bariloche (Arg) 157Bogotá (Col) 575Brazil 437-8Buenos Aires (Arg) 71Colombia 666Córdoba (Arg) 113Cuenca (Ecu) 718Ecuador 769La Paz (Bol) 207Medellín (Col) 625Mendoza (Arg) 144Montañita (Ecu) 746Montevideo (Uru) 985Otavalo (Ecu) 699Paraguay 844Peru 959Quito (Ecu) 681Rosario (Arg) 89Sucre (Bol) 260Valparaíso (Chi) 467

languages 23, 1054-66, see also language courses

Argentina 194Aymara 1063French Guiana 791Portuguese 1054Quechua 1063Suriname 979Spanish 1059-63

Las Huacas del Sol y de la Luna (Per) 919-20

Las Leñas (Arg) 150-1Las Lomitas (Chi) 484Las Tunas (Ecu) 743-5Latacunga (Ecu) 704-5legal matters 1036,


Lençóis (Bra) 381-2Lethem (Guy) 806Leticia (Col) 654-8, 655LGBT+ travelers 1036,


Lima (Per) 852-68, 853, 854, 856, 858-9, 862, 864

accommodations 856-61

activities 855-6drinking & nightlife

864-5entertainment 865events 856


107 7IN

DEX L–

P festivals 856food 861-4history 852medical services 866money 866safety 865shopping 865sights 852-5tourist information 866tours 856travel to/from 866-7travel within 867

literature 21, see also booksArgentina 189Brazil 432Chile 562Colombia 663Paraguay 842Uruguay 1011

Loja (Ecu) 723-4Loma Plata (Par) 836-7Los Ángeles (Chi) 508Los Antiguos (Arg) 173Los Lípez (Bol) 243Los Llanos (Col) 652-4Los Penitentes (Arg) 147-8

MMacas (Ecu) 734-5Maceió (Bra) 387-8Machala (Ecu) 752-3Machu Picchu (Per) 11,

906-9, 907, 10-11Macri, Mauricio 186Maitencillo (Chi) 473Malargüe (Arg) 150malaria 1050Mamiña (Chi) 495Mana (FG) 788-9Manaus (Bra) 418-22, 419Máncora (Per) 924-7Manizales (Col) 633-5Manta (Ecu) 739-41, 740maps 1036, see also

individual countriesMar del Plata (Arg) 134-6marijuana (Uru) 990markets

Asunción (Par) 821Belém (Bra) 410Buenos Aires (Arg) 69Cacao (FG) 781-2Cayenne (FG) 778Georgetown (Guy) 796Iquitos (Per) 947La Paz (Bol) 201Montevideo (Uru) 984,

991

Otavalo (Ecu) 16, 698, 16Paramaribo (Sur) 967Porto Alegre (Bra) 355Puerto Montt (Chi) 529Santiago (Chi) 451-2,

460São Paulo (Bra) 333Valdivia (Chi) 519Villa Gesell (Arg) 136

Maule Valley (Chi) 504-5Mbaracayú Biosphere

Reserve (Par) 833Medellín (Col) 623-30,

624, 626medical services 1049-50,


Mendoza (Arg) 140-7, 142Mennonite Colonies (Par)

835-7Mercedes (Uru) 997-8Mina San José (Chi) 482Minca (Col) 602-3Mindo (Ecu) 696-8Misahuallí (Ecu) 731-3Mitad del Mundo (Ecu)

695-6mobile phones 20, 1040,

see also telephone services under individual countries

Mompiche (Ecu) 737-8Mompós (Col) 618money 20, 21, 1036-7,


Monguí (Col) 593Montañita (Ecu) 745-7Montecristi (Ecu) 741Montevideo (Uru) 984-92,

986-7accommodations 985activities 985courses 985drinking & nightlife 990events 985festivals 985food 985-9medical services 991money 991shopping 991sights 984-5tourist information 991travel to/from 991-2travel within 992

Monumento Natural El Morado (Chi) 464

Morales, Evo 284, 287-8Morro de São Paulo (Bra)

382-3

motorcycle travel 1046-7, see also car & motorcycle travel

mountain biking 50-1, see also cycling

Arequipa (Per) 878-9Baños (Ecu) 709Cuzco (Per) 894Huaraz (Per) 930La Paz (Bol) 204-5Parque Nacional

Cotopaxi (Ecu) 704Pucón (Chi) 515-16, 516Puerto Varas (Chi) 524Salento (Col) 637San Gil (Col) 594Sorata (Bol) 231

mountaineering, see climbing

music 21, 1031-2Argentina 190Bolivia 289Brazil 432Colombia 663Ecuador 765Peru 954-5

NNatal (Bra) 396-8national parks & reserves,

see also individual parks & reserves

Argentina 192Bolivia 291Brazil 434Chile 564-5Ecuador 766Paraguay 843Peru 956

Nazca (Per) 872-4, 873Nazca Lines (Per) 872-3Necocli (Col) 618-19Neruda, Pablo 470, 562Neuquén (Arg) 151-3Nevados de Chillán (Chi)

506Niemeyer, Oscar 341,

348-9Nieuw Nickerie (Sur) 976Northwestern National

Parks (Par) 838Novo Airão (Bra) 422-4Nuevo Rocafuerte (Ecu)

729

OOlinda (Bra) 392-5, 393Ollantaytambo (Per)

903-4

Olón (Ecu) 745opening hours, see

individual countriesOriente, the (Ecu) 727-35Oruro (Bol) 234-7, 235-6Osorno (Chi) 522-3Otavalo (Ecu) 698-701,

699Ouro Prêto (Bra) 344-6,

345

PPachacamac (Per) 855Palomino (Col) 605-6Pantanal Paraguayo (Par)

834Pantanal, the (Bra) 364-7,

366Papallacta (Ecu) 696Papillon 784Paracas (Per) 868-9paragliding 53

Bucaramanga (Col) 598La Paz (Bol) 206-7Lima (Per) 855Medellín (Col) 625San Gil (Col) 594

Paraguay 57, 813-47, 815, 824-5


843activities 843arts 842bathrooms 845-6border crossings 822,

828, 830, 832, 836business hours 845climate 813consulates 843-4costs 814culture 841-2currency 814electricity 843embassies 843-4environment 842-3exchange rates 814food 813, 844gay travelers 844health 844highlights 815history 839-41internet access 844internet resources 814itineraries 814LGBT+ travelers 844literature 841maps 844money 844-5

1078

IND

EX P

Paraguay continuedopening hours 845politics 838-9, 840-1public holidays 845responsible travel 845safety 845sports 842telephone services 845toilets 845-6tourist information 846travel seasons 813travel to/from 846travel within 847visas 846volunteering 846weather 813women travelers 846

Paramaribo (Sur) 967-73, 968-9

accommodations 970-1activities 968-70drinking & nightlife 972food 971-2safety 972shopping 972sights 967-8tourist information 972tours 968-70travel to/from 972travel within 972-3

Paraná (Arg) 97-9Paranaguá (Bra) 350parasites 1052-3Paraty (Bra) 331-2Parinacota (Chi) 501Parque Estadual da Serra

dos Pireneus (Bra) 365Parque Esteros del Iberá

(Arg) 99-100Parque Nacional & Área de

Uso Múltiple Amboró (Bol) 274

Parque Nacional Bernardo O’Higgins (Chi) 556

Parque Nacional Bosques de Fray Jorge (Chi) 478

Parque Nacional Cajas (Ecu) 722

Parque Nacional Chaco (Arg) 93

Parque Nacional Chiloé (Chi) 537

Parque Nacional Conguillío (Chi) 512

Parque Nacional Cotopaxi (Ecu) 704

Parque Nacional da Chapada Diamantina (Bra) 381

Parque Nacional da Chapada dos Guimarães (Bra) 369-70

Parque Nacional da Chapada dos Veadeiros (Bra) 365

Parque Nacional da Tijuca (Bra) 309

Parque Nacional de Aparados da Serra (Bra) 353

Parque Nacional Defensores del Chaco (Par) 838

Parque Nacional del Chicamocha (Col) 597

Parque Nacional dos Lençóis Maranhenses (Bra) 408

Parque Nacional El Palmar (Arg) 93

Parque Nacional Huascarán (Per) 933-4

Parque Nacional Huerquehue (Chi) 518-19

Parque Nacional Iguazú (Arg) 110-11

Parque Nacional Laguna del Laja (Chi) 507

Parque Nacional Lanín (Arg) 154

Parque Nacional Lauca (Chi) 501-2

Parque Nacional Lihué Calel (Arg) 144

Parque Nacional Los Alerces (Arg) 165-6

Parque Nacional Los Arrayanes (Arg) 156

Parque Nacional Los Glaciares (Arg) 179

Parque Nacional Machalilla (Ecu) 743

Parque Nacional Madidi (Bol) 281

Parque Nacional Manu (Per) 944-5

Parque Nacional Marinho de Fernando de Noronha (Bra) 392

Parque Nacional Médanos del Chaco (Par) 838

Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi (Arg) 162

Parque Nacional Nahuelbuta (Chi) 507

Parque Nacional Natural Amacayacu (Col) 658

Parque Nacional Natural El Cocuy (Col) 592-3

Parque Nacional Natural Los Nevados (Col) 635-6

Parque Nacional Natural Sierra de La Macarena (Col) 653

Parque Nacional Natural Tayrona (Col) 603-5, 604-5

Parque Nacional Nevado Tres Cruces (Chi) 483

Parque Nacional Noel Kempff Mercado (Bol) 281

Parque Nacional Pan de Azúcar (Chi) 484

Parque Nacional Patagonia (Chi) 543

Parque Nacional Podocarpus (Ecu) 725

Parque Nacional Pumalín (Chi) 538-40

Parque Nacional Puyehue (Chi) 523

Parque Nacional Queulat (Chi) 541

Parque Nacional Rapa Nui (Chi) 558-9

Parque Nacional Río Pilcomayo (Arg) 93

Parque Nacional San Rafael (Par) 830-1

Parque Nacional Santa Teresa (Uru) 1008-9

Parque Nacional Sierra de las Quijadas (Arg) 144

Parque Nacional Teniente Enciso (Par) 838

Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego (Arg) 185-6

Parque Nacional Torotoro (Bol) 256-7

Parque Nacional Torres del Paine (Chi) 18, 552-5, 553, 18

Parque Nacional Tunari (Bol) 256

Parque Nacional Vicente Pérez Rosales (Chi) 528

Parque Nacional Villarrica (Chi) 519

Parque Nacional Yasuní (Ecu) 730

Parque por la Paz (Chi) 451Parque Provincial

Aconcagua (Arg) 148Parque Provincial Ernesto

Tornquist (Arg) 140Parque Provincial

Ischigualasto (Arg) 149-50

Parque Tagua-Tagua (Chi) 526

passports 1042, see also visas

Pasto (Col) 652Patagonia

Argentina 166-80, 167Chile 538-55

Paysandú (Uru) 998-9Peperpot Nature Park

(Sur) 973Pereira (Col) 636Perón, Eva 187Perón, Juan 187Peru 57, 848-963, 850-1


957activities 957-8arts 954-5bathrooms 961border crossings 875,

889, 925, 946, 950business hours 960climate 848consulates 958costs 849culture 953-4currency 849electricity 958embassies 958environment 955-7exchange rates 849food 848, 958-9gay travelers 959highlights 850-1history 951-3internet access 959internet resources 849itineraries 849language courses 959legal matters 959LGBT+ travelers 959maps 959money 959-60national parks 956opening hours 960politics 951population 954postal services 960public holidays 960religion 954responsible travel 960safety 960-1sports 954telephone services 961toilets 961tourist information 961travel seasons 848travel to/from 962travel within 962-3


1079IN

DEX P

–S

vacations 960visas 961volunteering 961weather 848women travelers 962work 962

photography 1037Pica (Chi) 495Pichilemu (Chi) 502-4Pilar (Par) 829-30Pinamar (Arg) 137-8Pinochet, Augusto 560-1,

1028Piriápolis (Uru) 1002Piribebuy (Par) 823Pisac (Per) 901-2Pisco Elqui (Chi) 481-2Piura (Per) 923-4planning

budgeting 21, 42-6calendar of events 27-30countries 55-8first-time visitors 22-3internet resources 21itineraries 31-9medical checklist 1049packing 46South America basics

20-1travel seasons 20, 27-30

Playa Blanca (Col) 617Poconchile (Chi) 501Poconé (Bra) 370police 1038Pombori (Par) 817Popayán (Col) 644-7, 646Porto Alegre (Bra) 355-8,

356Porto Seguro (Bra) 385-6Porto Velho (Bra) 425-6Portuguese language 1054Porvenir (Chi) 556Posadas (Arg) 105-6postal services 1037-8, see

also individual countriesPotosí (Bol) 264-8, 265Praia da Pipa (Bra) 395-6Providencia (Col) 622-3public holidays, see

individual countriespublic transport 1047,


Pucallpa (Per) 945-6Pucón (Chi) 514-18, 515Puente del Inca (Arg) 148Puerto Ayora (Ecu) 757-8Puerto Baquerizo Moreno

(Ecu) 758-9

Puerto Iguazú (Arg) 107-10, 108

Puerto López (Ecu) 741-3Puerto Madryn (Arg) 166-

70, 168Puerto Maldonado (Per)

942-4, 943Puerto Montt (Chi) 529-32,

530Puerto Nariño (Col) 658-9Puerto Natales (Chi) 549-

52, 550Puerto Varas (Chi) 524-8,

525Puerto Williams (Chi) 555Puno (Per) 885-9, 886Punta Arenas (Chi) 547-9,

546Punta del Diablo (Uru)

1007-8Punta del Este (Uru) 1003-

6, 1004Punta Gallinas (Col) 609Putre (Chi) 501Puyo (Ecu) 733-4Puyuhuapi (Chi) 541

QQuebrada de Cafayate

(Arg) 125Quebrada de Humahuaca

(Arg) 132-4Quechua language 1063Quellón (Chi) 538Quilmes (Arg) 126Quilotoa Loop (Ecu) 706-7Quito (Ecu) 676-95, 681-2,

678-9, 681, 684-5, 688, 692

accommodations 682-95activities 681courses 681drinking & nightlife 690-1events 682festivals 682food 686-90medical services 692-3safety 692sights 676-81tourist information 693tours 681-2travel to/from 693-4travel within 693, 695

Rrabies 1050-1rafting 53

Arequipa (Per) 878Bariloche (Arg) 157

Cajón del Maipo (Chi) 463

Cuzco (Per) 894Futaleufú (Chi) 540, 52Mendoza (Arg) 144Pucón (Chi) 515, 516Puerto Varas (Chi) 524Salta (Arg) 126San Agustín (Col) 648San Gil (Col) 594Tena (Ecu) 730

Raleighvallen (Sur) 975-6Rapa Nui (Chi) 556-9, 557Recife (Bra) 388-92, 389Recinto del Pensamiento

(Col) 635religion 1030-1, see also

individual countriesRémire-Montjoly (FG) 783Reñaca (Chi) 473Reserva Biológica Jatun

Sacha (Ecu) 733Reserva de Producción

de Fauna Chimborazo (Ecu) 714-15

Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur (Arg) 65

Reserva Ecológica Cotacachi-Cayapas (Ecu) 702

Reserva Ecológica Vargem Grande (Bra) 365

Reserva Faunística Península Valdés (Arg) 170-1

Reserva Nacional Altos de Lircay (Chi) 506

Reserva Nacional Coyhaique (Chi) 541

Reserva Nacional de Paracas (Per) 869

Reserva Nacional Pacaya-Samiria (Per) 950-1

Reserva Nacional Pampa del Tamarugal (Chi) 497

Reserva Nacional Radal Siete Tazas (Chi) 506

Reserva Natural Cañon de Río Claro (Col) 631

Reserva Producción Faunística Cuyabeno (Ecu) 727-8

reserves, see national parks & reserves, individual reserves

Resistencia (Arg) 102-4responsible travel, see also

volunteeringBrazil 439Colombia 667-8

Paraguay 845Peru 960

Rio Branco (Bra) 426Rio de Janeiro (Bra) 12,

304-27, 304, 306-7, 310, 316-17, 320, 12, 50

accommodations 311-14activities 308drinking & nightlife 321-3entertainment 323-4events 311festivals 311food 314-21history 304-5medical services 325safety 324-5shopping 324sights 305-8tourist information 325tours 309-11travel to/from 325-6travel within 326-7

Río Gallegos (Arg) 179-80Río Liucura Valley (Chi) 518Rio Vermelho (Bra) 379Riobamba (Ecu) 712-14Riohacha (Col) 608road rules 1047robbery 1039, see also

safetyrock climbing, see climbingRosario (Arg) 87-94, 90Rousseff, Dilma 430, 1028ruins 24, see also

archaeological sites, Inca sites

Rupununi (Guy) 803, 804-6

Rurrenabaque (Bol) 229, 276-81, 278

Ruta Spondylus (Ecu) 743-7

SSábato, Ernesto 189Sacred Valley (Per) 901-4safety 23, 1038-9, see also

individual cities, Argentina 196Bolivia 295Brazil 439Chile 567Colombia 668Ecuador 770French Guiana 791Guyana 811Paraguay 845Peru 960-1

1080

IND

EX S–T

Salango (Ecu) 743-5Salar de Uyuni (Bol) 15,

242-3, 15Salento (Col) 637-8Salinas (Ecu) 711-12salt flats

Reserva Faunística Península Valdés (Arg) 170

Salar de Uyuni (Bol) 15, 242-3, 15

Salta (Arg) 126-30, 128-9Salto (Uru) 999-1000Salvador (Bra) 375-81, 376Salvaterra (Bra) 415Sama Biological Reserve

(Bol) 250Samaipata (Bol) 273-4samba 1032

Rio de Janeiro (Bra) 323, 324

Same (Ecu) 736-7San Agustín (Col) 647-9,

648San Agustín de Valle Fértil

(Arg) 149San Andrés (Col) 621-2San Antonio de Areco

(Arg) 87San Bernardino (Par)

823-5San Gil (Col) 593-6San Ignacio (Arg) 106-7San Ignacio de Moxos

(Bol) 283San Juan (Arg) 148-9San Lorenzo (Bol) 249-50San Luis (Arg) 140San Martín de los Andes

(Arg) 154-6San Pedro de Atacama

(Chi) 488-92, 489Santa Cruz (Bol) 268-75Santa Cruz (Chi) 502Santa Fe (Arg) 94-7, 95Santa Fe de Antioquia

(Col) 632Santa María de la Fe

(Par) 831Santa Marta (Col) 599-

602, 600Santarém (Bra) 415-16Santiago (Chi) 446-63,

448-9, 454-5accommodations 453-7activities 452

courses 452drinking & nightlife 459entertainment 459-60events 452-3festivals 452-3food 457-9history 446itineraries 447medical services 461safety 460-1shopping 460sights 446-52tourist information 461tours 452travel to/from 461-2travel within 462-3

Santiago del Estero (Arg) 119

Santuario de Flora y Fauna de Iguaque (Col) 591-2

Santuario de Iguaque (Col) 591-2

Santuário Ecológico de Pipa (Bra) 395

São Luís (Bra) 405-8, 406São Miguel do Gostoso

(Bra) 404São Paulo (Bra) 332-41,

334-5, 337accommodations 336activities 333-5drinking & nightlife

338-9entertainment 339-40events 335festivals 335food 336-8medical services 340safety 340sights 333-5tourist information 340-1travel to/from 340, 341travel within 341

Sapzurro (Col) 619Saqsaywamán (Per)

899-901Saraguro (Ecu) 722-3scams 1038, see also

safetyscuba diving, see divingSemana Santa 28Sendero Luminoso 953Serere Eco Reserve (Bol)

282Sierra de la Ventana (Arg)

139Siete Tazas (Chi) 506Sigsig (Ecu) 722Siles Zuazo, Hernán 287

Sillustani (Per) 889Silvia (Col) 651Sipán (Per) 923skiing 42, 54

Las Leñas (Arg) 150-1Los Penitentes (Arg)

147-8Mendoza (Arg) 143Nevados de Chillán

(Chi) 506Parque Nacional Nahuel

Huapi (Arg) 162Parque Nacional

Puyehue (Chi) 523Santiago region (Chi)

464Valle Nevado (Chi)

464, 52Volcán Osorno (Chi) 528

slave trade 1025-6snorkeling, see divingsnowboarding 54, see also

skiingsoccer

Argentina 191Brazil 433Chile 563Colombia 664Paraguay 842Peru 954Uruguay 1011

Sorata (Bol) 231-2Soure (Bra) 415-16Southern Altiplano 232-50Spanish language 1059-63sports, see individual

countriesSt Laurent du Maroni (FG)

785-8, 786stargazing

Chile 474, 488, 491Ecuador 681

Súa (Ecu) 736Sucre (Bol) 257-63, 258surfing 42, 51, 53

Cabo Polonio (Uru) 1006

Canoa (Ecu) 738Huanchaco (Per) 920Iquique (Chi) 494Itacaré (Bra) 384La Paloma (Uru) 1007La Pedrera (Uru) 1007Lima (Per) 856Máncora (Per) 924-5Montañita (Ecu) 745Pichilemu (Chi) 502-3Puerto Baquerizo

Moreno (Ecu) 759

Punta del Este (Uru) 1003

Villa Gesell (Arg) 136Suriname 58, 964-80, 966



976business hours 979climate 964consulates 978costs 965culture 977-8currency 965electricity 978embassies 978environment 978exchange rates 965food 964, 978gay travelers 979health 979highlights 966history 977holidays 979internet access 979internet resources 965itineraries 965language 979LGBT+ travelers 979money 979opening hours 979politics 976-7public holidays 979telephone services 980tourist information 980travel seasons 964travel to/from 980travel within 980vacations 979visas 980weather 964women travelers 980

TTacna (Per) 874-5Tacuarembó (Uru) 1000-2Tafí del Valle (Arg) 121-2Taganga (Col) 606Talca (Chi) 504-5Tambomachay (Per) 901tango 190

classes 71-2, 72, 113festivals & events 29performances 81-2

Tango BA Festival y Mundial 29


1081IN

DEX T–

Wtap water 1053Tarabuco (Bol) 263Tarapaya (Bol) 268Tarapoto (Per) 940-2Tarija (Bol) 246-9Tejo (Col) 595telephone services 20,

1039-40, see also individual countries

Temuco (Chi) 508-12Tena (Ecu) 730-1Termales San Vicente

(Col) 637Termas de Papallacta

(Ecu) 696theft 1039, see also safetyTierra del Fuego (Arg)

180-6, 180-1Tierra del Fuego (Chi)

555-6Tierradentro (Col) 649-50Tigre (Arg) 87Tilcara (Arg) 132-3time 20, 1040tipping 23Tiradentes (Bra) 346-7Tiwanaku (Bol) 218-19toilets 1040, see also

individual countriesTomatitas (Bol) 250Tonchigüe (Ecu) 736-7Torres del Paine (Chi)

552-5, 553tourist information, see

individual cities, individual countries

tours 1039, see also jungle tours, individual cities, individual countries

train travel 1047-8to/from Peru 962within Argentina 198within Bolivia 299within Brazil 443within Chile 569within Ecuador 774within Peru 963

Trancoso (Bra) 387Transchaco Rally (Par) 837transportation 21, 1042-8travel seasons 20, 27-30,

46, see also individual countries

trekking, see hikingTrelew (Arg) 171Trésor Nature Reserve

(FG) 782Trevelin (Arg) 165Trinidad (Bol) 281-4Trinidad (Par) 830

Trujillo (Per) 915-18, 916Tucumán (Arg) 119-21Túcume (Per) 923Tunja (Col) 590Tupiza (Bol) 243-6typhoid 1051

UUpper Suriname River

(Sur) 973-5Uribe, Álvaro 662Urubamba (Per) 902-3Uruguay 58, 981-1014,

983accessible travel 1011-12accommodations 981,

1012activities 1012arts 1011border crossings 992,

1009business hours 1013climate 981consulates 1012costs 982culture 1010-11currency 982electricity 1012embassies 1012environment 1011exchange rates 982food 981, 1012gay travelers 1014highlights 983history 1009-10holidays 1013insurance 1012internet access 1012internet resources 982itineraries 982legal matters 1013LGBT+ travelers 1013marijuana 990money 1013opening hours 1013politics 1009population 1010public holidays 1013sports 1011telephone services

1013-14tourist information 1014travel seasons 981travel to/from 1014travel within 1014vacations 1013visas 1014volunteering 1014

weather 981women travelers 1014

Ushuaia (Arg) 181-5, 182-3

Uspallata (Arg) 147Uyuni (Bol) 237-42, 238

Vvacations, see individual

countriesvaccinations 1049Valdivia (Chi) 519-22, 520Valle de Cocora (Col)

638-9Valle de la Luna (Bol) 205Valle de Lunarejo (Uru)

1001Valle de Maipo (Chi) 463Valle Las Trancas (Chi)

506Valle Nevado (Chi) 464, 52Valles Calchaquíes (Arg)

125-6Valparaíso (Chi) 465-71,

466, 44Venezuela 58, 1015-20,

1016culture 1019economy 1017history 1017-20politics 1016-17travel warning 1015

Vicuña (Chi) 479-81Vilcabamba (Ecu) 725-7Villa Carlos Paz (Arg) 116Villa de Leyva (Col) 587-91,

588Villa General Belgrano

(Arg) 116Villa Gesell (Arg) 136-7Villa la Angostura (Arg)

156-7Villa O’Higgins (Chi)

545-6Villarrica (Chi) 512-14Villazón (Bol) 244Viña del Mar (Chi) 471-3visas 20, 1040, see also

passports, individual countries

volcanoesVolcán Chimborazo (Ecu)

714-15Volcán Cotopaxi (Ecu)

704Volcán de Lodo El

Totumo (Col) 617 Volcán Lanín (Arg) 154Volcán Osorno (Chi)

528

Volcán Pululahua (Ecu) 696Volcán Villarrica (Chi)

514volunteering 1040-1,


Wwalking, see hikingwater 1053waterfalls

Iguazú Falls (Arg) 14, 110-11, 14

Iguazú Falls (Bra) 358Kaieteur Falls (Guy) 802Salto del Monday (Par)

833Saltos del Petrohué

(Chi) 528weather 20, 27-30, see also

individual countrieswebsites, see internet

resourceswhitewater rafting,

see raftingwildlife-watching 26,

49-50Cabo Polonio (Uru) 1006Coca (Ecu) 728Floresta Nacional do

Tapajós (Bra) 416Fortín Toledo (Par) 837-8Galápagos Islands

(Ecu) 757Isla Isabela (Ecu) 760Islas Ballestas (Per) 868Laguna Capitán (Par)

837Mennonite Colonies

(Par) 837-8Novo Airão (Bra) 422Pantanal, the 365-7Parque Nacional

Machalilla (Ecu) 743Parque Nacional Manu

(Per) 944-5Parque Nacional Nevado

Tres Cruces (Chi) 483Peru 956Puerto Ayora (Ecu) 757Puerto Madryn (Arg) 166Reserva de Producción

de Fauna Chimborazo (Ecu) 714-15

Reserva Faunística Península Valdés (Arg) 170

Reserva Nacional Pacaya-Samiria (Per) 950-1

1082

IND

EX W–

Z

windsurfing (Bra) 404wine regions

Colchagua Valley (Chi) 502

Maule Valley (Chi) 505Mendoza (Arg) 146

women travelers 1041, see also individual countries

work 1041, see also individual countries

World’s Most Dangerous Road (Bol) 227

XXapuri (Bra) 426-7

YYanahuana (Per) 880Yapeyú (Arg) 100Yarinacocha (Per) 946yellow fever 1051Yolosa 226-9Yungas, the (Bol) 226

ZZamora (Ecu) 724-5Zapallar (Chi) 473Zika virus 1051Zipaquirá (Col) 583ziplining 884


1083N

OTES

1084

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro station

Petrol stationSubway/Subte stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

Beach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Mudflat

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

CampingHut/Shelter

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkelingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

Gate

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book

Map Legend


Kevin Raub Brazil, Chile, Colombia Atlanta native Kevin started his career as a music jour-nalist in New York, working for Men’s Journal and Rolling Stone magazines. He ditched the rock ‘n’ roll lifestyle for travel writing and has written over 95 Lonely Planet guides, focused mainly on Brazil, Chile, Colombia, USA, India, the Carib-bean and Portugal. Kevin also contributes to a variety of travel magazines in both the USA and UK. Along the way, the self-confessed hophead is in constant search

of wildly high IBUs in local beers. Follow him on Twitter and Instagram (@RaubOnTheRoad).

Adam Skolnick Argentina Adam’s travel obsession bloomed while working as an environmental activist in the mid-1990s. These days he’s an award-winning journalist and travel writer who writes about travel, culture, human rights, sports and the environment for a variety of publications, including the New York Times, Playboy, Outside, BBC.com, Wired, ESPN.com and Men’s Health, and he’s authored or co-authored over 35 Lonely Planet guidebooks. An avid open water swimmer and diver, he’s also the

author of the critically acclaimed narrative non-fiction book, ONE BREATH: Freediving, Death and the Quest to Shatter Human Limits and INDOLIRIUM. He lives in Malibu, California. IG: @adamskolnick

Paul Smith Paraguay From an early age, and with a vague and naive ambition to be the next David Attenborough, Paul dreamed of exploring the remotest areas of South America in search of wildlife. After spending two months in Bolivia as a student, that dream started to come true, but with David Attenborough still going strong he changed his career plans, became a travel writer and moved to Paraguay per-manently in 2003.

Andy Symington Brazil Andy has written or worked on over a hundred books and other updates for Lonely Planet (especially in Europe and Latin America) and other publishing com-panies, and has published articles on numerous subjects for a variety of newspa-pers, magazines and websites. He part-owns and operates a rock bar, has written a novel and is currently working on several fiction and non-fiction writing projects. Andy, from Australia, moved to Northern Spain many years ago. When he’s not off

with a backpack in some far-flung corner of the world, he can probably be found watching the tragi-cally poor local football side or tasting local wines after a long walk in the nearby mountains.

Phillip Tang Peru Phillip grew up on a typically Australian diet of pho and fish’n’chips be-fore moving to Mexico City. A degree in Chinese and Latin-American cultures launched him into travel and then writing about it for Lonely Planet’s Canada, China, Japan, Korea, Mexico, Peru and Vietnam guides. See his writing at hello phillip.com; photos @mrtangtangtang; and tweets @philliptang

Luke Waterson Ecuador, Peru Raised in the remote Somerset countryside in Southwest England, Luke quickly became addicted to exploring out-of-the-way places. Completing a Creative Writing degree at the University of East Anglia, he shouldered his back-pack and vowed to see as much of the world as possible. Fast-forward a few years and he has travelled the Americas from Alaska to Tierra del Fuego and developed an obsession for Soviet Architecture and pre-Columbian ruins in equal measure.

Wendy Yanagihara Ecuador Wendy serendipitously landed her dream job of writing for Lonely Planet in 2003, and has since spent the intervening years contributing to titles including Southeast Asia on a Shoestring, Vietnam, Japan, Mexico, Costa Rica, Indonesia, and Grand Canyon National Park. In the name of research, she has hiked remote valleys of West Papua, explored the tiny nooks and alleys of Tokyo sprawl, trekked on a Patagonian glacier, and rafted Colorado River whitewater. Wendy has also

written for BBC Travel, the Guardian, Lonely Planet Magazine, lonelyplanet.com, and intermittently freelances as a graphic designer, illustrator and visual artist.


Mark Johanson Bolivia, Chile Mark grew up in Virginia and has called five different countries home over the last decade. His travel-writing career began as something of a quar-ter-life crisis, and he’s happily spent the past eight years circling the globe report-ing for Australian travel magazines (such as Get Lost), British newspapers (such as the Guardian), American lifestyles (such as Men’s Journal) and global media outlets (such as CNN and BBC). When not on the road, you’ll find him gazing at

the Andes from his home in Santiago.

Anna Kaminski Argentina, Colombia Originally from the Soviet Union, Anna grew up in Cam-bridge, England. She graduated from the University of Warwick with a degree in Comparative American Studies, a background in the history, culture and litera-ture of the Americas and the Caribbean, and an enduring love of Latin America. Her restless wanderings led her to settle briefly in Oaxaca and Bangkok and her flirtation with criminal law saw her volunteering as a lawyer’s assistant in the

courts, ghettos and prisons of Kingston, Jamaica. Anna has contributed to more than 30 Lonely Planet titles. When not on the road, Anna calls London home.

Brian Kluepfel Ecuador, Venezuela Brian had lived in three states and seven different residences by the time he was nine, and he’s just kept moving, making stops in Berkeley, Bolivia, the Bronx and the ‘burbs further down the line. His journalistic work across the Americas has ranged from the Copa America soccer tournament in Paraguay to an accordion festival in Quebec. He has contributed to Lonely Planet titles including Costa Rica, Belize, Guatemala, Bolivia and Ecuador. Brian is an

avid birder and musician and dabbles in both on the road; his singing has been tolerated at open mics from Sámara, Costa Rica, to Beijing, China.

Tom Masters Colombia, French Guiana, Guyana, Suriname Dreaming since he could walk of going to the most obscure places on earth, Tom has always had a taste for the unknown. This has led to a writing career that has taken him all over the world, including North Korea, the Arctic, Congo and Siberia. Despite a childhood spent in the English countryside, as an adult Tom has always called London, Paris and Berlin home. He currently lives in Berlin and can be found online at www.tommasters.net.

Carolyn McCarthy Argentina, Chile, Peru Carolyn specializes in travel, culture and adventure in the Americas. She has written for National Geographic, Outside, BBC Magazine, Sierra Magazine, the Boston Globe and other publications. A former Fulbright fellow and Banff Mountain Grant recipient, she has documented life in the most remote corners of Latin America. Carolyn has contributed to 40 guidebooks and anthologies for Lonely Planet, including Colorado, USA, Argentina, Chile, Trek-

king in the Patagonian Andes, Panama, Peru and USA’s National Parks. For more information, visit www.carolynmccarthy.org or follow her Instagram travels @mccarthyoffmap.

MaSovaida Morgan Ecuador MaSovaida is a travel writer and multimedia storyteller whose wander-lust has taken her to more than 40 countries and all seven continents. Previously, she was Lonely Planet’s Destination Editor for South America and Antarctica for four years and worked as an editor for newspapers and NGOs in the Middle East and United Kingdom. Follow her on Instagram @MaSovaida.

Anja Mutić Argentina Born and raised in Zagreb, Croatia, Anja has traveled the globe as a professional wanderer for decades. Her travel-writing career has taken her to more than 60 countries, taught her several languages and won her several awards. She has lived, worked and traveled on every continent (except Antarcti-ca), including a stint of several months living in Buenos Aires. Follow her on Insta-gram at Everthenomad.

Robert Balkovich Brazil Robert was born and raised in Oregon, but has called New York City home for almost a decade. When he was a child and other families were going to theme parks and grandma’s house he went to Mexico City and toured Eastern Europe by train. He’s now a writer and travel enthusiast seeking experiences that are ever so slightly out of the ordinary to report back on.

Jade Bremner Ecuador Jade has been a journalist for more than a decade. She has lived in and reported on four different regions. Wherever she goes she finds action sports to try – the weirder the better – and it’s no coincidence many of her favorite places have some of the best waves in the world. Jade has edited travel magazines and sections for Time Out and Radio Times and has contributed to the Times, CNN and the Independent. She feels privileged to share tales from this wonderful

planet we call home and is always looking for the next adventure.

Cathy Brown Argentina Cathy is a travel writer (Lonely Planet, OARS, Luxury Latin America) and editor (Matador Network). She live with her three kids in the Andes of Argen-tine Patagonia, where she hikes, gardens, drinks Malbec, works with medicinal herbs and indigenous cultures, and is building a straw-bale house. She’s passion-ate about any adventure travel, including surfing, rafting, skiing, climbing or trek-king, and works closely with the Adventure Travel Trade Association.

Gregor Clark Brazil, Uruguay Gregor is a US-based writer whose love of foreign languages and curiosity about what’s around the next bend have taken him to dozens of coun-tries on five continents. Chronic wanderlust has also led him to visit all 50 states and most Canadian provinces on countless road trips through his native North America. Since 2000, Gregor has regularly contributed to Lonely Planet guides, with a focus on Europe and the Americas.

Alex Egerton Argentina, Brazil, Peru A news journalist by trade, Alex has worked for maga-zines, newspapers and media outlets on five continents. Having had his fill of musty newsrooms, Alex decided to leap into travel writing in order to escape the mundane. He spends most of his time on the road checking under mattresses, sampling suspicious street food and chatting with locals. A keen adventurer, Alex has hiked through remote jungles in Colombia, explored isolated tributaries of

the mighty Mekong and taken part in the first kayak descent of a number of remote waterways in Nicaragua. When not on the road, you’ll find him at home in the colonial splendor of Popayán in southern Colombia.

Michael Grosberg Argentina, Bolivia Michael has worked on over 50 Lonely Planet guidebooks. Oth-er international work included development work on Rota in the western Pacific; and teaching in Quito, Ecuador. He has also worked in South Africa, where he investigated and wrote about political violence, and trained newly elected govern-ment representatives. He received a Masters in Comparative Literature, and has taught literature and writing as an adjunct professor.

Anthony Ham Brazil, Colombia Anthony is a freelance writer and photographer who specializes in Spain, East and Southern Africa, the Arctic and the Middle East. When he’s not writing for Lonely Planet, Anthony writes about and photographs Spain, Africa and the Middle East for newspapers and magazines in Australia, the UK and US.

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 55415314th edition – October 2019ISBN 978 1 78657 488 6© Lonely Planet 2019 Photographs © as indicated 201910 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in SingaporeAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

OUR WRITERSRegis St LouisBrazil, Chile Regis grew up in a small town in the American Midwest – the kind of place that fuels big dreams of travel – and he developed an early fascination with foreign dialects and world cultures. He spent his formative years learning Russian and a handful of Romance languages, which served him well on journeys across much of the globe. Regis has contributed to more than 50 Lonely Planet titles, covering destinations across six continents. His travels have taken him

from the mountains of Kamchatka to remote island villages in Melanesia, and to many grand ur-ban landscapes. When not on the road, he lives in New Orleans. Regis also wrote the Plan Your Trip, Understand and Survive chapters.

Isabel AlbistonArgentina, Bolivia, Ecuador After six years working for the Daily Telegraph in London, Isabel left to spend more time on the road. A job as writer for a mag-azine in Sydney, Australia, was followed by a four-month overland trip across Asia and five years living and working in Buenos Aires, Argentina. Isabel started writing for Lonely Planet in 2014 and has contributed to 12 guidebooks. She’s currently based in Ireland.

Celeste Brash French Guiana, Guyana, Suriname Like many California natives, Celeste now lives in Portland, Oregon. However, she arrived after 15 years in French Polynesia, a year and a half in Southeast Asia and a stint teaching English as a second lan-guage (in an American accent) in Brighton, England – among other things. She’s been writing guidebooks for Lonely Planet since 2005 and her travel articles have appeared in publications from BBC Travel to National Geographic. She’s

currently writing a book about her five years on a remote pearl farm in the Tuamotu Atolls and is represented by the Donald Maass Agency, New York.

Brendan Sainsbury Colombia, Peru Born and raised in the UK in a town that never merits a men-tion in any guidebook (Andover, Hampshire), Brendan spent the holidays of his youth caravanning in the English Lake District and didn’t leave Blighty until he was 19. Making up for lost time, he’s since squeezed 70 countries into a sometimes precarious existence as a writer and professional vagabond. copy of Lonely Planet’s Africa on a Shoestring. In the last 11 years, he has written over

40 books for Lonely Planet.

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South America 14 - Preview (Chapter) - Lonely Planet...to San Agustín to explore pre-Columbian ruins, and on to Parque Nacional Natural Puracé , for Andean treks. Then go to Pasto