97
Issue 10 In this issue: An overview Thai Massage Temples in Chiang Mai Krabi: A Dream Destination Food: Vegetarian Nam Prik Ong

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Page 1: Thaiguru issue10

Issue 10

In this issue An overview

Thai MassageTemples in Chiang Mai

Krabi A Dream DestinationFood Vegetarian Nam Prik Ong

Dear reader

when making a magazine on a relative new medium

you have to constantly be aware of new developments

in the world of digital publishing

That is why we are proud to announce issue 10 of

Thai Guru Magazine in a new format

Not only will Thai Guru now available on all devices including

desktop computers but the resolution of the photographs that

make up such an important part of our magazine is much higher

So from now on you wonrsquot need to download an app anymore

Our new PDF format is a very small file

so simply download it and enjoy

The Thai Guru Team

Vegetarian Nam Prik Ong

- 2 pieces of dried soy bean paste

- 7 dried red hot chili

- 5 shallots

- 5 cloves of garlic

- 2 cups of chopped tomatoes

- 1 cup of chopped oyster mushrooms

- 1 cup of mashed firm tofu

- 1 tbsp of chopped lemongrass

- 1 tbsp of oil

- 1 tsp of salt

- 3 tbsp of soy sauce

- 2 tsp of sugar

- frac14 cup of water

- 3 stems of coriander

- 2 tbsp of chopped spring onion

Roast chili shallots garlic and

dried soybean paste until fragrant

Put in a mortar together with

lemon grass and crush

Heat up oil in a wok Add the mixture

of the mortar Fry until fragrant

Add tomatoes mushrooms tofu and water

Add seasoning salt soy sauce and sugar

Stir and let it simmer until tomatoes

are soft and well mixed together

The taste should be little bit spicy

sour and salty

Add more seasoning to taste

Put in bowl and garnish with

coriander and spring onion

Serve with rice and fresh steamed or raw

vegetables such as cabbage

cucumber or egg plants

Enjoy

With thanks to Thai Farm Cooking School

A Morning with an Elephant Vet

A 45 minute drive through the morning traffic

heading towards Mae Taeng located to the

north of Chiang Mai on our way to visit an

elephant park One of many elephant camps or

parks around Thailand catering for the gawking

tourists taking them on elephant rides and

doing tricks like playing football or painting

pictures However few travellers ever give a

second thought about the actual welfare of

these great creatures whose natural habitat

has been eroded away Our focus today was

going to be the work of a local veterinarian who

has spent the last 4 years with the Mae Taeng

Elephant Park and Clinic running their veterinary

facility

Upon our arrival I headed off to meet with the

parks general manager Khun Nu who informed

us that their resident vet would be arriving

shortly After a short wander around the park we

headed in the direction of the medical facilities

which comprised of what I would describe

as a kind of lsquowaiting roomrsquo area for the sick

elephants a large roofed structure able to house

several of the large animals Next to this was

one of two treatment areas again a large shed

construction with a very sturdy looking steel

frame set into the concrete floor to which the

elephants can be tethered while being seen by

the vet

Approaching the waiting area a slight figure

wearing a green surgical smock could be seen

with a mahout crouched under the head of a

young female elephant treating its neck the

first patient of the day The cow as females are

known was being treated for some sores around

the neck The vet was daubing the area with

disinfectant to help prevent infection working

quickly and efficiently in silence unaware of our

presence

The vet a 28 year old woman going by the

nickname of lsquoImrsquo (a short vowel sounding i as

in it) has been working at the elephant clinic

since she graduated 4 years previously from the

Faculty of Veterinary Medicine at Chiang Mai

University after completing a 6 year veterinary

degree Her love of these majestic creatures

was the focus of her dissertation Working daily

from 9 to 5 keeps her pretty busy with the park

employing her on a full-time basis

The second elephant to be seen by Im was

housed in an older treatment area nearby This

time the problem was a cut on the bottom of its

foot caused by walking on some glass

With the elephants mahout on-hand to assist

Im first had to check to see if there was any

remaining glass in the wound This done the next

stage was cleaning the injury which was done

using a giant foot bath

The elephantrsquos mahout guided the elephant into

position so that her front feet would be standing

in the disinfecting solution But rather than just

walking the animal through the solution the

elephant had to stand patiently with its feet in the

foot bath for a whole hour

During the treatment the elephantrsquos tether was lying unsecured on the floor but she stood calmly allowing

the vet to do her task even being in some discomfort It shows how trusting these animals can be with

humans The female elephant must have known that Im was there to help her

During an average day Im will treat 4 or 5 elephants usually foot injuries and other such problems as we

witnessed that morning cleaning and disinfecting wounds to prevent infection When she does have

a quieter day Imrsquos time is taken up with the general wellbeing of the elephants with nail trimming and

administrating drugs However her work isnrsquot limited to the park elephants

On occasion elephants outside the park require help so they can contact Im who will go out to the

surrounding area and provide a mobile clinic This service is provided free of charge courtesy of the park and

is a much appreciated service to the elephants who do not have a fixed home and whose mahouts cannot

otherwise afford treatment for their animals

With the sun approaching the meridian we said our farewells and headed back to town with the peace of

mind knowing that the magnificent elephants would be in the capable hands of Im the vet who cares and

treats them day to day

International Training Massage School

On a peaceful street a short walk from Chiang

Mairsquos old city is the International Training Massage

School An airy modern building in the traditional

Lanna style welcomes beginners seeking to learn

the basics of traditional Thai massage as well as

seasoned massage professionals looking to expand

their skills

Thai Guru is well used to being on the receiving

end of a skilful pair of hands of belonging to an

experienced masseuse so were pleased to be

invited to join the students at ITM to learn a bit more

about the training that is required to perform one of

the best things about living in Thailand

Chiang Mai is a mecca for those wishing to

spend a few days a few weeks or a few months

learning the art of Nuad Boran or lsquoancient

Thai Massagersquo Massage is serious business

in this part of the world and schools like ITM

tech everything from introduction courses

to advanced teacher training There are also

some quite specific classes on offer including

pregnancy massage hot stone healing massage

and infant massage

The ITM students turn up to begin their studies

early in the morning Shoes and sandals are left

outside the building next to a decorative koi

carp pond comfortable loose fitting pyjamas

are donned feet are washed and it is off to one

of the yoga studios to settle down and the first

blessing of the day Prayers are offered up by

students and teachers to Dr Shivago Komarpaj

Buddharsquos physician and the father of Thai

massage

Traditional Thai massage is practiced without

oils unguents or lotions and both giver and

receiver keep their clothes on The therapy

involves the compression rocking stretching

and manipulation of the joints and muscles

rather than the rubbing and stroking often

employed in other forms of massage

Once the prayers and blessings have been given up it is time for the students to get themselves ready for

the dayrsquos exertions by stretching To the relaxing sounds of flute music a teacher guides the trainees through

a set of yoga moves On the morning Thai Guru visited there were fifteen students being gently told to

assume the lsquosupermanrsquo and kick their legs into the air for the lsquoreverse bicyclersquo

We were informed that the combination of rhythmic stretches traditionally used by yogis and hermits (who

probably better than anyone know the importance of a good stretch) as well as warming up the studentsrsquo

bodies help the novices to understand better what they will be doing to the bodies of those they are about

to massage

A short break for coffee and bananas in a quiet courtyard watched over by a shrine to Dr Shivago and itrsquos

back to the classroom for a demonstration of the significance of some basic Nuad Boran moves The

students gather round books with detailed diagrams open on their laps to study how to perfect moves like

lsquothe flamingorsquo and lsquothe last tangorsquo among others

The founder of the school Mr Chongkol Setthakorn takes over the class for

the serious task of making sure the students have been paying attention and

arenrsquot in the process of giving each other hernias A quick prayer is said and

the real business of bending stretching and joint crunching begins

The students we met had been training for between three and four weeks

However courses at ITM and indeed at schools across Chiang Mai can be

tailored to fit the requirements of anyone who wishes to get involved in an

activity that gives enormous pleasure to both the giver and receiver - as Mr

Settakorn astutely explains ldquoThai Massage is like a thousand gentle waves

washing over the bodyrdquo

ITM ndash International Training Massage School

599 Chang Puak Road

Soi 4 Chor

Sriphum

Muang Chiang Mai

50200 THAILAND

Phone +66-5321-8632

Mobile +66-83-763-1002

Email itmitmthaimassagecom

wwwitmthaimassagecom

Krabi dream destination

After a couple of weeks traveling through

Thailand many are looking for the

perfect location to spend their last days

of their vancation Perfection doesnrsquot

exist but dream destination Krabi is gets

close

Located in the south west of Thailand

Krabi is also thanks to its airport an easy

destination to reach

You will notice the friendly atmosphere in this

area of Thailand right away

A couple of must sees like the Emerald Pond

and the Hot Waterfall are definitely worth your

visit Imagine relaxing in a the hot waterfall

under the exotic trees

And of course an island tour is a must when

you are in Krabi

By boat you can visit Por da Koh Hong Koh Kai

and the famous Pranang cave

Khao Yai National Park

Since establishing Thai Guru Magazine

we have been eager to take our

cameras to Khao Yai National Park

Having visited the area previously

I had already enjoyed the beauty

of Khao Yai and the abundance of

wildlife to be seen there and was keen

to share it with the rest of the team

Finally at the end of January we

jumped in the car for the long drive

south from

Chiang Mai

Three hours northeast of Bangkok Khao Yai

is the oldest and third largest national park

in Thailand Grasslands evergreen forests

monsoon forests and rain forests cover more

than 2000 square kilometres of this Unesco

World Heritage site

The park is teeming with wildlife Mammals

including elephant gibbon barking deer and

guar live within the parkrsquos borders The area

is also home to carnivores such as Asian wild

dogs and tigers as well as numerous reptiles and

amphibians including king cobras pythons and

monitor lizards Nearly 400 species of bird can

be found at Khao Yai Other attractions in this

trekkersrsquo paradise include several large waterfalls

The 20 metre Haew Suwat waterfall with is

deep pool was made famous by the film lsquoThe

Beachrsquo

Day 1The road leading to the gates of Khao Yai National Park is notable for its

numerous Italian influenced restaurants hotels and guesthouses A paradise

for pizza and pasta lovers there is even a small Italian-style village with ice-

cream parlours eateries and Italian themed guesthouses Almost immediately

after entering the park we were greeted by the sight of black giant squirrels

and pig tailed macaques clamouring in the canopy all around us Our first stop

was the visitor centre where we picked up a map of the park and other useful

information Outside were several sambar deer picking through restaurant

leftovers The rest of the day was spent exploring spots in which to set up

our cameras the following day We also made the first of several walks to the

observation tower adjacent to Nong Pak Chee reservoir As well as fabulous

views of the park the tower overlooks a saltlick where all manner of wildlife

gathers to suck up vital minerals and nutrients

Day 2Khao Yai is extremely popular with visitors and we could only

book lodging within its borders for the last two days of our trip

This meant an early start so we could get into the park in time to

shoot the sunrise We were the first visitors of the day and drove

to one of the places we had explored the day before We came

across what we thought was one of the many sambar or barking

deer that roam freely around the park We decided to take a

closer look only to find we had stumbled across an Asiatic black

bear half hidden in the morning mist Having spotted us after a

few minutes the handsome creature ambled off into the forest

The dawn had barely broken and our day was already a triumph

The rest of our time was spent following gibbons various varieties

deer and innumerable brightly coloured birds

Day 3Today we were fortunate to be allowed to move

ourselves and our equipment into government-

owned lodgings within the park Our first

mission was to set our cameras up at a place

where we had heard the heavy distinctive

rushing of wings and calls of hornbills (described

by some as sounding like the puffing of a steam

locomotive) the day before

We had expected a long wait but already had

our first shots of this impressive bird in the

can before breakfast We spent many hours

photographing hornbills macaque and other

wildlife

We even stumbled upon a pack of Asian wild

dogs gathered around the carcass of a recently

killed deer We thought our wildlife encounters

for the day were over as we sat down to enjoy

dinner only to be disturbed by scuffling sounds

behind our bungalow The noise was being

made by a pair of porcupines who were not in

the least afraid of us and actually attempted to

chase us away

Day 4The day was spent exploring the trails of Khao Yai and discovering among other wildlife a magnificent

crested serpent eagle As the afternoon drew to a close we decided to take one last trip to the watchtower

From here we witnessed the gathering of a large flock of hornbills We showed some of our footage to a

friendly ranger He was particularly interested in our bear shots We were thrilled to be told that it was very

rare to see a black bear even more so when we were informed that none of the rangers had seen one for

a number of months I decided to leave the tower to find a good place to photograph the sunset Within

a matter of minutes I heard someone scream ldquoBEARrdquo and was back up the stairs in seconds There below

us taking an evening stroll through the grass just metres from where we were perched was another much

younger black bear

Our trip could not have ended better Needless

to say Thai Guru thoroughly recommends a visit

to Khao Yai National Park As already mentioned

the park is popular with both local and foreign

tourists especially on holidays and weekends

We advise that you try to visit during the week

when the park is quieter and the chance of

seeing the amazing wildlife is greater

The park has two camping grounds as well as a

few bungalows that can be booked through the

Department of National Parks Wildlife and Plant

Conservation These need to be booked well

in advance However there are also plenty of

guesthouses and hotels are to be found along

the parkrsquos boundaries

Festival of LanternsThe enchanting atmosphere of Loi Krathong

The weather is cooling down and itrsquos

that time of year again when we all

take to the waterways of Thailand and

give praise to Khongkha the water

Goddess who took care of abundant

rainfall in the past raining season

Donrsquot miss this joyful celebration with

its enchanting atmosphere that brings

one and all in Thailand together

much like Songkran

Thailandrsquos lsquoFestival of Lightsrsquo is celebrated

throughout the kingdom on the night of the

November full moon The end of the rainy

season heralds the coolest months in the

countryrsquos calendar when the river waters are

also supposed to be at their highest

Superstition replaces religion on this night as

thousands flock to the banks of the swollen

rivers and canals to release khratongs floating

tributes to the river spirits and Mother Water ndash

Phra Mae Khongkha In recent years the festival

has been revived in the ancient temples of

Thailandrsquos former capital Sukhothai

Visitors assemble in the Sukhothai Historical

Park with their banana leaf khratongs decorated

with flowers incense sticks and candles to take

part in a ceremony that dates back centuries

Sometimes a coin is added as gift to the spirits

The pretty rafts are then released onto the lake

with a wish

It was once believed that Loi Khratong

was actually created in Sukhothai by Nang

Nopphamas a lady of the court and consort

of the king In fact the celebration was adapted

by Thai Buddhists from a Brahmanical festival

adapted to honour Buddha

The khratong is meant to be a light on the

darkness of the water for Buddha A personrsquos

sins and negative thoughts are also believed to

float away with the colourful little raft Try adding

a lock of your hair for extra luck

Nearly 20 of the Northern provinces will be

showing off a dazzling selection of floats in the

Royal Khratongs Procession as well as holding a

Miss Nopphamat beauty contest

A competition is held for the most beautifully

designed khratong as well as plenty of other

Sukhothai arts and cultural performances

The Light-and-Sound Presentation at Wat

Mahathat explains the history and origins of

Sukhothai and Loi Khratong through dance

music prayer combat displays light effects and

fireworks No Loi Khratong would be complete

without fireworks and thankfully the Thais are

not shy when it comes to blowing things up in

the sky

Tra Kuan pond is the place to be for the floating

of the Royal Khratongs followed by more

firmament-filling pyrotechnics Wat Chana

Songkram is the venue for the Mahachat

sermon Khon Marked Dance and a Thai

classical music performance

Thai Guru decided to travel from Chiang Mai

to Sukhotai for this yearrsquos festivities Although

the heavens decided to open for most of the

celebrations on the final day the rain could not

dampen the celebrations and the spectacle was

jaw dropping

The only thing that was missing due to the rain

was a sky filled with khom loi the sky lanterns

usually released into the firmament in their

hundreds

Although the festivities officially last for the best

part of a week it is the last three days that are

the busiest

Visitors can join in with a range of activities

including fruit carving or just wander around the

historic park listening to live traditional music

watching Thai martial arts or join the parade

of dancers musicians and beauty contestants

all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured

costumes

There are numerous places to stay for the

duration of the festival but it is advisable to

book ahead if you can because this is a very

popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north

from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai Temples

A visit to a temple in Thailand is

unavoidable They are everywhere

We at Thai Guru are well aware that

because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can

quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang

Mai With this in mind (and because

the city is overflowing with hundreds

of them) we have chosen a few of

our favourites we hope are slightly

alternative to the ones on the usual

tourist itinerary

Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to

the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its

latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of

the skills of the local silversmiths Like many

of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was

established several centuries ago The ubosoth

or ordination hall is an intricately designed

silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in

the sunlight

The area around Wua Lai has been the home to

silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past

couple of centuries who are famed throughout

the kingdom for creating detailed embossed

relief patterns on the objects they create

something that is immediately evident and

celebrated at Wat Srisuphan

The larger more traditionally decorated red blue

and gold prayer hall also contains impressive

silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos

life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft

museum

Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the

artisans at work and the temple has its own

silver-working school where apprentices are

trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive

Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved

in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-

robed residents of the temple improve their

linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also

available

Unfortunately women are not allowed to

enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this

is explained on a sign outside the wording of

which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in

the monastic boundary many precious things

incantations amulets and other holy objects

were buried over 500 years ago Entering

inside this area may deteriorated the place or

otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most

of the interior can be appreciated from the

doorway

Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous

for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged

Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai

Due to its being less well advertised than its

neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham

is often a more peaceful temple from which

to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang

Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist

Lent when the place was alive with worshippers

Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once

the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic

giants Following a visit from the Buddha the

giants decided to mend their ways stop eating

their neighbours and convert to Buddhism

For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and

offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the

templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally

constructed towards the end of the 7th century

Although the temple fell into disrepair over the

centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered

a chamber containing a number of Buddha

images The discovery led to the revitalisation of

this mountain top temple

The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are

guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured

sword-wielding warriors The courtyard

overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and

bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of

food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the

road leading to the temple

Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-

west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek

and easily accessible by car or taxi

Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai

was being established the name translates

as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably

because it was used to cast Buddha images for

its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The

entrance to the temple is through a small but

intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos

assembly hall is notable because it is one of the

only viharns of its type constructed solely from

teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a

superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock

astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference

to the king who once used the wooden hall as

his palace The gilded image features mythical

creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured

glass

The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite

from the busy road outside Wooden boxes

contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm

leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a

large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors

Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks

like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a

small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less

imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo

temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru

recommends a quick visit if you are passing

Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous

temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi

Luang

The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the

largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it

was damaged either by an earthquake in the

16th century or cannon fire from the guns

of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese

in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO

funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps

up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga

serpents and a group of five elephants (only the

one without a trunk or ears partially survived

whatever caused the structure to collapse the

others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi

was also once home to one of the most revered

religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald

Buddha Although the original now resides in

Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and

once again looks out over the city from a niche

on the east side of the structure

Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and

now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly

hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance

is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a

great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar

housed in a building at the base of the tree

Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although

one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few

alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed

Mae Hong Son

It is said that Mae Hong Son is the

most authentic and mountainous

province of Thailand For Thai Guru a

good reason to explore this province

side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai

province

Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of

Thailand The northern most part of this

province is at a distance of 924 km from

Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province

in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son

borders Myanmar On the south and east side it

borders Tak and Chiang Mai province

We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast

on the 108 road The scenery is woody and

mountainous so far so good And as we leave

the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek

for wildlife and beautiful landscapes

The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage

is that our average speed drops to less than

15 km hour No worries when you do trips

like these the clock stops and the only thing

on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning

landscapes that unfold before your eyes

The main road is well paved But as you might

understand we regularly go off road

This is the best way to come into contact with

locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo

While we are standing somewhere taking in the

beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a

falcon calling

A short walk through the forrest the sound

stops and we decide to sit down for some

water and well earned rest After a short while I

hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo

There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters

above us a white rumped falcon

Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras

it stays there and even when we start making

noises because we want to film it in flight it

takes itrsquos time

Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of

Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They

cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more

Of course they also have their own cattle And

walking through one of their small villages they

are very friendly and hospitable

It has to be said it is never smart to enter

a community or people with your camera

as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask

the people if they mind if you taking their

photograph or want to film their daily life

In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to

the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean

and offers a nice variety food on the terrace

with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city

where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists

Really nice to stroll down the walking street and

find food or a nice souvenir People are very

friendly as usual

From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae

Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an

average speed of 15 km hour

Halfway we jump out of the car into a river

Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to

keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn

but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around

without it

Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome

us and are gladly willing to allow us to make

photographs and film them

In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early

morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises

For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum

After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark

Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon

So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team

ChinatownBangkok

Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese

people in big cities around the world

Manhattan San Francisco Manilla

Paris and Boston have them and

more keep being officially recognised

in their role as historical and touristic

center every year Even places like

Dubai and Las Vegas have modern

day versions of this phenomenon

As soon as you pass under one of the famous

large red entrance arches you arrive in a

complete different world

A world that is paradise for photographers

A couple of the photographers in the Thai

Guru team decided to spend some time in the

Bangkok version of Chinatown

If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for

some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at

Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim

Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat

SLEEPY NANA dream destination

Relatively unknown and uncrowded

Nan has it all This gem of a province

hides an abundance of cultural and

natural attractions ancient temples

pristine forests rivers mountain

peaks but what strikes you most is

its omnipresent feel of an untroubled

authentic way of life

Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings

you this genuine feel in pictures and footage

For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of

Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant

nature and the nature of its people show

Thailand - as is often said before hordes of

tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas

it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan

managed to escape this proces but will it stay

that way Nan shares most of its border with

neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening

of the border and beyond towards China it is to

be expected that it will ultimately become an

important gateway for trade and tourism

Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town

and the countryside will enchant you and the natural

cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy

for at least a couple of days The town along the banks

of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base

to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night

life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous

temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue

influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The

great surroundings can best be explored by renting a

motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo

Much of the province is devoted to farming

Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still

being practised in areas of the province resulting

in a landscape where forests and fields alternate

Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside

of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature

peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich

natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the

province sees far fewer visitors than popular

neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You

can go white water rafting on the Wa River

along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim

National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay

overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes

Touring Nan

Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern

lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities

of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old

salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via

endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges

and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with

orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers

Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready

to be harvested broke through the green hills

giving a golden hue to the landscape

We encountered friendly villagers who worked

their way through the dry fields - meanwhile

singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to

supplement their meager incomes Despite their

hardship they showed us their heartwarming

hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes

with us

This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi

Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and

sparsely populated that we only passed two

cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos

difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand

nowadays

PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river

The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness

begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over

the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above

the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is

broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices

Then the carved image of a Naga becomes

visible above the water line followed by more

than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted

in red and gold colorshellip

During the year the remote provincial town

of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a

year for the annual spectacle of traditional

Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos

water artery The finals are held over two

days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos

banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite

team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in

Thailand yet relatively unknown

The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long

simple shelters where the massive dragon boats

are housed during the year Just once a year

they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos

most important sporting and social event The

event takes place right after the end of the

rainy season around early November when

water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at

their highest The colorful races are part of the

festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the

last day of Buddhist Lent in October

The narrow boats are made from massive

hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters

in length depending how many paddlers they

are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily

distinguishable by their use of bright colors and

mythical designs in the traditional local style

The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of

each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting

only the good ones to participate in their race

How to get there

Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is

connected by plane and by bus to the rest of

the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan

Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice

each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to

Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to

Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on

the service

Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan

(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8

hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)

The contestants of the races are classified into

three categories mdashlarge medium and small

boats Depending on their length each boat can

accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers

sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the

same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously

against the current to the frantic beating of a

drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern

The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying

their attempt to reach the finish line first and

the paddles churning up the river creates a

spectacular atmosphere

Son

g K

ran

in

Ch

ian

g M

ai

Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of

the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down

in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The

days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing

steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the

hot months of April and May The stifling mid-

day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out

unless necessary The buzz around town about

some festival called Song Kran is starting to

increase an underlying excitement rising

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
  2. Button 4
  3. Button 9
  4. previous
  5. next
Page 2: Thaiguru issue10

Dear reader

when making a magazine on a relative new medium

you have to constantly be aware of new developments

in the world of digital publishing

That is why we are proud to announce issue 10 of

Thai Guru Magazine in a new format

Not only will Thai Guru now available on all devices including

desktop computers but the resolution of the photographs that

make up such an important part of our magazine is much higher

So from now on you wonrsquot need to download an app anymore

Our new PDF format is a very small file

so simply download it and enjoy

The Thai Guru Team

Vegetarian Nam Prik Ong

- 2 pieces of dried soy bean paste

- 7 dried red hot chili

- 5 shallots

- 5 cloves of garlic

- 2 cups of chopped tomatoes

- 1 cup of chopped oyster mushrooms

- 1 cup of mashed firm tofu

- 1 tbsp of chopped lemongrass

- 1 tbsp of oil

- 1 tsp of salt

- 3 tbsp of soy sauce

- 2 tsp of sugar

- frac14 cup of water

- 3 stems of coriander

- 2 tbsp of chopped spring onion

Roast chili shallots garlic and

dried soybean paste until fragrant

Put in a mortar together with

lemon grass and crush

Heat up oil in a wok Add the mixture

of the mortar Fry until fragrant

Add tomatoes mushrooms tofu and water

Add seasoning salt soy sauce and sugar

Stir and let it simmer until tomatoes

are soft and well mixed together

The taste should be little bit spicy

sour and salty

Add more seasoning to taste

Put in bowl and garnish with

coriander and spring onion

Serve with rice and fresh steamed or raw

vegetables such as cabbage

cucumber or egg plants

Enjoy

With thanks to Thai Farm Cooking School

A Morning with an Elephant Vet

A 45 minute drive through the morning traffic

heading towards Mae Taeng located to the

north of Chiang Mai on our way to visit an

elephant park One of many elephant camps or

parks around Thailand catering for the gawking

tourists taking them on elephant rides and

doing tricks like playing football or painting

pictures However few travellers ever give a

second thought about the actual welfare of

these great creatures whose natural habitat

has been eroded away Our focus today was

going to be the work of a local veterinarian who

has spent the last 4 years with the Mae Taeng

Elephant Park and Clinic running their veterinary

facility

Upon our arrival I headed off to meet with the

parks general manager Khun Nu who informed

us that their resident vet would be arriving

shortly After a short wander around the park we

headed in the direction of the medical facilities

which comprised of what I would describe

as a kind of lsquowaiting roomrsquo area for the sick

elephants a large roofed structure able to house

several of the large animals Next to this was

one of two treatment areas again a large shed

construction with a very sturdy looking steel

frame set into the concrete floor to which the

elephants can be tethered while being seen by

the vet

Approaching the waiting area a slight figure

wearing a green surgical smock could be seen

with a mahout crouched under the head of a

young female elephant treating its neck the

first patient of the day The cow as females are

known was being treated for some sores around

the neck The vet was daubing the area with

disinfectant to help prevent infection working

quickly and efficiently in silence unaware of our

presence

The vet a 28 year old woman going by the

nickname of lsquoImrsquo (a short vowel sounding i as

in it) has been working at the elephant clinic

since she graduated 4 years previously from the

Faculty of Veterinary Medicine at Chiang Mai

University after completing a 6 year veterinary

degree Her love of these majestic creatures

was the focus of her dissertation Working daily

from 9 to 5 keeps her pretty busy with the park

employing her on a full-time basis

The second elephant to be seen by Im was

housed in an older treatment area nearby This

time the problem was a cut on the bottom of its

foot caused by walking on some glass

With the elephants mahout on-hand to assist

Im first had to check to see if there was any

remaining glass in the wound This done the next

stage was cleaning the injury which was done

using a giant foot bath

The elephantrsquos mahout guided the elephant into

position so that her front feet would be standing

in the disinfecting solution But rather than just

walking the animal through the solution the

elephant had to stand patiently with its feet in the

foot bath for a whole hour

During the treatment the elephantrsquos tether was lying unsecured on the floor but she stood calmly allowing

the vet to do her task even being in some discomfort It shows how trusting these animals can be with

humans The female elephant must have known that Im was there to help her

During an average day Im will treat 4 or 5 elephants usually foot injuries and other such problems as we

witnessed that morning cleaning and disinfecting wounds to prevent infection When she does have

a quieter day Imrsquos time is taken up with the general wellbeing of the elephants with nail trimming and

administrating drugs However her work isnrsquot limited to the park elephants

On occasion elephants outside the park require help so they can contact Im who will go out to the

surrounding area and provide a mobile clinic This service is provided free of charge courtesy of the park and

is a much appreciated service to the elephants who do not have a fixed home and whose mahouts cannot

otherwise afford treatment for their animals

With the sun approaching the meridian we said our farewells and headed back to town with the peace of

mind knowing that the magnificent elephants would be in the capable hands of Im the vet who cares and

treats them day to day

International Training Massage School

On a peaceful street a short walk from Chiang

Mairsquos old city is the International Training Massage

School An airy modern building in the traditional

Lanna style welcomes beginners seeking to learn

the basics of traditional Thai massage as well as

seasoned massage professionals looking to expand

their skills

Thai Guru is well used to being on the receiving

end of a skilful pair of hands of belonging to an

experienced masseuse so were pleased to be

invited to join the students at ITM to learn a bit more

about the training that is required to perform one of

the best things about living in Thailand

Chiang Mai is a mecca for those wishing to

spend a few days a few weeks or a few months

learning the art of Nuad Boran or lsquoancient

Thai Massagersquo Massage is serious business

in this part of the world and schools like ITM

tech everything from introduction courses

to advanced teacher training There are also

some quite specific classes on offer including

pregnancy massage hot stone healing massage

and infant massage

The ITM students turn up to begin their studies

early in the morning Shoes and sandals are left

outside the building next to a decorative koi

carp pond comfortable loose fitting pyjamas

are donned feet are washed and it is off to one

of the yoga studios to settle down and the first

blessing of the day Prayers are offered up by

students and teachers to Dr Shivago Komarpaj

Buddharsquos physician and the father of Thai

massage

Traditional Thai massage is practiced without

oils unguents or lotions and both giver and

receiver keep their clothes on The therapy

involves the compression rocking stretching

and manipulation of the joints and muscles

rather than the rubbing and stroking often

employed in other forms of massage

Once the prayers and blessings have been given up it is time for the students to get themselves ready for

the dayrsquos exertions by stretching To the relaxing sounds of flute music a teacher guides the trainees through

a set of yoga moves On the morning Thai Guru visited there were fifteen students being gently told to

assume the lsquosupermanrsquo and kick their legs into the air for the lsquoreverse bicyclersquo

We were informed that the combination of rhythmic stretches traditionally used by yogis and hermits (who

probably better than anyone know the importance of a good stretch) as well as warming up the studentsrsquo

bodies help the novices to understand better what they will be doing to the bodies of those they are about

to massage

A short break for coffee and bananas in a quiet courtyard watched over by a shrine to Dr Shivago and itrsquos

back to the classroom for a demonstration of the significance of some basic Nuad Boran moves The

students gather round books with detailed diagrams open on their laps to study how to perfect moves like

lsquothe flamingorsquo and lsquothe last tangorsquo among others

The founder of the school Mr Chongkol Setthakorn takes over the class for

the serious task of making sure the students have been paying attention and

arenrsquot in the process of giving each other hernias A quick prayer is said and

the real business of bending stretching and joint crunching begins

The students we met had been training for between three and four weeks

However courses at ITM and indeed at schools across Chiang Mai can be

tailored to fit the requirements of anyone who wishes to get involved in an

activity that gives enormous pleasure to both the giver and receiver - as Mr

Settakorn astutely explains ldquoThai Massage is like a thousand gentle waves

washing over the bodyrdquo

ITM ndash International Training Massage School

599 Chang Puak Road

Soi 4 Chor

Sriphum

Muang Chiang Mai

50200 THAILAND

Phone +66-5321-8632

Mobile +66-83-763-1002

Email itmitmthaimassagecom

wwwitmthaimassagecom

Krabi dream destination

After a couple of weeks traveling through

Thailand many are looking for the

perfect location to spend their last days

of their vancation Perfection doesnrsquot

exist but dream destination Krabi is gets

close

Located in the south west of Thailand

Krabi is also thanks to its airport an easy

destination to reach

You will notice the friendly atmosphere in this

area of Thailand right away

A couple of must sees like the Emerald Pond

and the Hot Waterfall are definitely worth your

visit Imagine relaxing in a the hot waterfall

under the exotic trees

And of course an island tour is a must when

you are in Krabi

By boat you can visit Por da Koh Hong Koh Kai

and the famous Pranang cave

Khao Yai National Park

Since establishing Thai Guru Magazine

we have been eager to take our

cameras to Khao Yai National Park

Having visited the area previously

I had already enjoyed the beauty

of Khao Yai and the abundance of

wildlife to be seen there and was keen

to share it with the rest of the team

Finally at the end of January we

jumped in the car for the long drive

south from

Chiang Mai

Three hours northeast of Bangkok Khao Yai

is the oldest and third largest national park

in Thailand Grasslands evergreen forests

monsoon forests and rain forests cover more

than 2000 square kilometres of this Unesco

World Heritage site

The park is teeming with wildlife Mammals

including elephant gibbon barking deer and

guar live within the parkrsquos borders The area

is also home to carnivores such as Asian wild

dogs and tigers as well as numerous reptiles and

amphibians including king cobras pythons and

monitor lizards Nearly 400 species of bird can

be found at Khao Yai Other attractions in this

trekkersrsquo paradise include several large waterfalls

The 20 metre Haew Suwat waterfall with is

deep pool was made famous by the film lsquoThe

Beachrsquo

Day 1The road leading to the gates of Khao Yai National Park is notable for its

numerous Italian influenced restaurants hotels and guesthouses A paradise

for pizza and pasta lovers there is even a small Italian-style village with ice-

cream parlours eateries and Italian themed guesthouses Almost immediately

after entering the park we were greeted by the sight of black giant squirrels

and pig tailed macaques clamouring in the canopy all around us Our first stop

was the visitor centre where we picked up a map of the park and other useful

information Outside were several sambar deer picking through restaurant

leftovers The rest of the day was spent exploring spots in which to set up

our cameras the following day We also made the first of several walks to the

observation tower adjacent to Nong Pak Chee reservoir As well as fabulous

views of the park the tower overlooks a saltlick where all manner of wildlife

gathers to suck up vital minerals and nutrients

Day 2Khao Yai is extremely popular with visitors and we could only

book lodging within its borders for the last two days of our trip

This meant an early start so we could get into the park in time to

shoot the sunrise We were the first visitors of the day and drove

to one of the places we had explored the day before We came

across what we thought was one of the many sambar or barking

deer that roam freely around the park We decided to take a

closer look only to find we had stumbled across an Asiatic black

bear half hidden in the morning mist Having spotted us after a

few minutes the handsome creature ambled off into the forest

The dawn had barely broken and our day was already a triumph

The rest of our time was spent following gibbons various varieties

deer and innumerable brightly coloured birds

Day 3Today we were fortunate to be allowed to move

ourselves and our equipment into government-

owned lodgings within the park Our first

mission was to set our cameras up at a place

where we had heard the heavy distinctive

rushing of wings and calls of hornbills (described

by some as sounding like the puffing of a steam

locomotive) the day before

We had expected a long wait but already had

our first shots of this impressive bird in the

can before breakfast We spent many hours

photographing hornbills macaque and other

wildlife

We even stumbled upon a pack of Asian wild

dogs gathered around the carcass of a recently

killed deer We thought our wildlife encounters

for the day were over as we sat down to enjoy

dinner only to be disturbed by scuffling sounds

behind our bungalow The noise was being

made by a pair of porcupines who were not in

the least afraid of us and actually attempted to

chase us away

Day 4The day was spent exploring the trails of Khao Yai and discovering among other wildlife a magnificent

crested serpent eagle As the afternoon drew to a close we decided to take one last trip to the watchtower

From here we witnessed the gathering of a large flock of hornbills We showed some of our footage to a

friendly ranger He was particularly interested in our bear shots We were thrilled to be told that it was very

rare to see a black bear even more so when we were informed that none of the rangers had seen one for

a number of months I decided to leave the tower to find a good place to photograph the sunset Within

a matter of minutes I heard someone scream ldquoBEARrdquo and was back up the stairs in seconds There below

us taking an evening stroll through the grass just metres from where we were perched was another much

younger black bear

Our trip could not have ended better Needless

to say Thai Guru thoroughly recommends a visit

to Khao Yai National Park As already mentioned

the park is popular with both local and foreign

tourists especially on holidays and weekends

We advise that you try to visit during the week

when the park is quieter and the chance of

seeing the amazing wildlife is greater

The park has two camping grounds as well as a

few bungalows that can be booked through the

Department of National Parks Wildlife and Plant

Conservation These need to be booked well

in advance However there are also plenty of

guesthouses and hotels are to be found along

the parkrsquos boundaries

Festival of LanternsThe enchanting atmosphere of Loi Krathong

The weather is cooling down and itrsquos

that time of year again when we all

take to the waterways of Thailand and

give praise to Khongkha the water

Goddess who took care of abundant

rainfall in the past raining season

Donrsquot miss this joyful celebration with

its enchanting atmosphere that brings

one and all in Thailand together

much like Songkran

Thailandrsquos lsquoFestival of Lightsrsquo is celebrated

throughout the kingdom on the night of the

November full moon The end of the rainy

season heralds the coolest months in the

countryrsquos calendar when the river waters are

also supposed to be at their highest

Superstition replaces religion on this night as

thousands flock to the banks of the swollen

rivers and canals to release khratongs floating

tributes to the river spirits and Mother Water ndash

Phra Mae Khongkha In recent years the festival

has been revived in the ancient temples of

Thailandrsquos former capital Sukhothai

Visitors assemble in the Sukhothai Historical

Park with their banana leaf khratongs decorated

with flowers incense sticks and candles to take

part in a ceremony that dates back centuries

Sometimes a coin is added as gift to the spirits

The pretty rafts are then released onto the lake

with a wish

It was once believed that Loi Khratong

was actually created in Sukhothai by Nang

Nopphamas a lady of the court and consort

of the king In fact the celebration was adapted

by Thai Buddhists from a Brahmanical festival

adapted to honour Buddha

The khratong is meant to be a light on the

darkness of the water for Buddha A personrsquos

sins and negative thoughts are also believed to

float away with the colourful little raft Try adding

a lock of your hair for extra luck

Nearly 20 of the Northern provinces will be

showing off a dazzling selection of floats in the

Royal Khratongs Procession as well as holding a

Miss Nopphamat beauty contest

A competition is held for the most beautifully

designed khratong as well as plenty of other

Sukhothai arts and cultural performances

The Light-and-Sound Presentation at Wat

Mahathat explains the history and origins of

Sukhothai and Loi Khratong through dance

music prayer combat displays light effects and

fireworks No Loi Khratong would be complete

without fireworks and thankfully the Thais are

not shy when it comes to blowing things up in

the sky

Tra Kuan pond is the place to be for the floating

of the Royal Khratongs followed by more

firmament-filling pyrotechnics Wat Chana

Songkram is the venue for the Mahachat

sermon Khon Marked Dance and a Thai

classical music performance

Thai Guru decided to travel from Chiang Mai

to Sukhotai for this yearrsquos festivities Although

the heavens decided to open for most of the

celebrations on the final day the rain could not

dampen the celebrations and the spectacle was

jaw dropping

The only thing that was missing due to the rain

was a sky filled with khom loi the sky lanterns

usually released into the firmament in their

hundreds

Although the festivities officially last for the best

part of a week it is the last three days that are

the busiest

Visitors can join in with a range of activities

including fruit carving or just wander around the

historic park listening to live traditional music

watching Thai martial arts or join the parade

of dancers musicians and beauty contestants

all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured

costumes

There are numerous places to stay for the

duration of the festival but it is advisable to

book ahead if you can because this is a very

popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north

from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai Temples

A visit to a temple in Thailand is

unavoidable They are everywhere

We at Thai Guru are well aware that

because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can

quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang

Mai With this in mind (and because

the city is overflowing with hundreds

of them) we have chosen a few of

our favourites we hope are slightly

alternative to the ones on the usual

tourist itinerary

Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to

the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its

latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of

the skills of the local silversmiths Like many

of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was

established several centuries ago The ubosoth

or ordination hall is an intricately designed

silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in

the sunlight

The area around Wua Lai has been the home to

silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past

couple of centuries who are famed throughout

the kingdom for creating detailed embossed

relief patterns on the objects they create

something that is immediately evident and

celebrated at Wat Srisuphan

The larger more traditionally decorated red blue

and gold prayer hall also contains impressive

silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos

life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft

museum

Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the

artisans at work and the temple has its own

silver-working school where apprentices are

trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive

Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved

in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-

robed residents of the temple improve their

linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also

available

Unfortunately women are not allowed to

enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this

is explained on a sign outside the wording of

which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in

the monastic boundary many precious things

incantations amulets and other holy objects

were buried over 500 years ago Entering

inside this area may deteriorated the place or

otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most

of the interior can be appreciated from the

doorway

Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous

for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged

Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai

Due to its being less well advertised than its

neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham

is often a more peaceful temple from which

to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang

Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist

Lent when the place was alive with worshippers

Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once

the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic

giants Following a visit from the Buddha the

giants decided to mend their ways stop eating

their neighbours and convert to Buddhism

For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and

offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the

templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally

constructed towards the end of the 7th century

Although the temple fell into disrepair over the

centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered

a chamber containing a number of Buddha

images The discovery led to the revitalisation of

this mountain top temple

The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are

guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured

sword-wielding warriors The courtyard

overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and

bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of

food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the

road leading to the temple

Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-

west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek

and easily accessible by car or taxi

Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai

was being established the name translates

as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably

because it was used to cast Buddha images for

its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The

entrance to the temple is through a small but

intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos

assembly hall is notable because it is one of the

only viharns of its type constructed solely from

teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a

superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock

astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference

to the king who once used the wooden hall as

his palace The gilded image features mythical

creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured

glass

The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite

from the busy road outside Wooden boxes

contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm

leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a

large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors

Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks

like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a

small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less

imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo

temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru

recommends a quick visit if you are passing

Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous

temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi

Luang

The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the

largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it

was damaged either by an earthquake in the

16th century or cannon fire from the guns

of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese

in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO

funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps

up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga

serpents and a group of five elephants (only the

one without a trunk or ears partially survived

whatever caused the structure to collapse the

others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi

was also once home to one of the most revered

religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald

Buddha Although the original now resides in

Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and

once again looks out over the city from a niche

on the east side of the structure

Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and

now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly

hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance

is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a

great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar

housed in a building at the base of the tree

Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although

one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few

alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed

Mae Hong Son

It is said that Mae Hong Son is the

most authentic and mountainous

province of Thailand For Thai Guru a

good reason to explore this province

side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai

province

Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of

Thailand The northern most part of this

province is at a distance of 924 km from

Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province

in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son

borders Myanmar On the south and east side it

borders Tak and Chiang Mai province

We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast

on the 108 road The scenery is woody and

mountainous so far so good And as we leave

the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek

for wildlife and beautiful landscapes

The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage

is that our average speed drops to less than

15 km hour No worries when you do trips

like these the clock stops and the only thing

on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning

landscapes that unfold before your eyes

The main road is well paved But as you might

understand we regularly go off road

This is the best way to come into contact with

locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo

While we are standing somewhere taking in the

beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a

falcon calling

A short walk through the forrest the sound

stops and we decide to sit down for some

water and well earned rest After a short while I

hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo

There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters

above us a white rumped falcon

Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras

it stays there and even when we start making

noises because we want to film it in flight it

takes itrsquos time

Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of

Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They

cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more

Of course they also have their own cattle And

walking through one of their small villages they

are very friendly and hospitable

It has to be said it is never smart to enter

a community or people with your camera

as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask

the people if they mind if you taking their

photograph or want to film their daily life

In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to

the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean

and offers a nice variety food on the terrace

with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city

where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists

Really nice to stroll down the walking street and

find food or a nice souvenir People are very

friendly as usual

From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae

Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an

average speed of 15 km hour

Halfway we jump out of the car into a river

Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to

keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn

but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around

without it

Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome

us and are gladly willing to allow us to make

photographs and film them

In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early

morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises

For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum

After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark

Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon

So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team

ChinatownBangkok

Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese

people in big cities around the world

Manhattan San Francisco Manilla

Paris and Boston have them and

more keep being officially recognised

in their role as historical and touristic

center every year Even places like

Dubai and Las Vegas have modern

day versions of this phenomenon

As soon as you pass under one of the famous

large red entrance arches you arrive in a

complete different world

A world that is paradise for photographers

A couple of the photographers in the Thai

Guru team decided to spend some time in the

Bangkok version of Chinatown

If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for

some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at

Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim

Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat

SLEEPY NANA dream destination

Relatively unknown and uncrowded

Nan has it all This gem of a province

hides an abundance of cultural and

natural attractions ancient temples

pristine forests rivers mountain

peaks but what strikes you most is

its omnipresent feel of an untroubled

authentic way of life

Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings

you this genuine feel in pictures and footage

For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of

Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant

nature and the nature of its people show

Thailand - as is often said before hordes of

tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas

it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan

managed to escape this proces but will it stay

that way Nan shares most of its border with

neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening

of the border and beyond towards China it is to

be expected that it will ultimately become an

important gateway for trade and tourism

Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town

and the countryside will enchant you and the natural

cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy

for at least a couple of days The town along the banks

of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base

to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night

life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous

temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue

influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The

great surroundings can best be explored by renting a

motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo

Much of the province is devoted to farming

Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still

being practised in areas of the province resulting

in a landscape where forests and fields alternate

Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside

of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature

peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich

natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the

province sees far fewer visitors than popular

neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You

can go white water rafting on the Wa River

along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim

National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay

overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes

Touring Nan

Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern

lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities

of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old

salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via

endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges

and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with

orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers

Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready

to be harvested broke through the green hills

giving a golden hue to the landscape

We encountered friendly villagers who worked

their way through the dry fields - meanwhile

singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to

supplement their meager incomes Despite their

hardship they showed us their heartwarming

hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes

with us

This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi

Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and

sparsely populated that we only passed two

cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos

difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand

nowadays

PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river

The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness

begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over

the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above

the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is

broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices

Then the carved image of a Naga becomes

visible above the water line followed by more

than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted

in red and gold colorshellip

During the year the remote provincial town

of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a

year for the annual spectacle of traditional

Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos

water artery The finals are held over two

days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos

banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite

team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in

Thailand yet relatively unknown

The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long

simple shelters where the massive dragon boats

are housed during the year Just once a year

they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos

most important sporting and social event The

event takes place right after the end of the

rainy season around early November when

water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at

their highest The colorful races are part of the

festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the

last day of Buddhist Lent in October

The narrow boats are made from massive

hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters

in length depending how many paddlers they

are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily

distinguishable by their use of bright colors and

mythical designs in the traditional local style

The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of

each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting

only the good ones to participate in their race

How to get there

Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is

connected by plane and by bus to the rest of

the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan

Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice

each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to

Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to

Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on

the service

Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan

(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8

hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)

The contestants of the races are classified into

three categories mdashlarge medium and small

boats Depending on their length each boat can

accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers

sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the

same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously

against the current to the frantic beating of a

drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern

The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying

their attempt to reach the finish line first and

the paddles churning up the river creates a

spectacular atmosphere

Son

g K

ran

in

Ch

ian

g M

ai

Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of

the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down

in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The

days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing

steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the

hot months of April and May The stifling mid-

day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out

unless necessary The buzz around town about

some festival called Song Kran is starting to

increase an underlying excitement rising

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

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infothaigurumagazinecom

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available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
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Page 3: Thaiguru issue10

Vegetarian Nam Prik Ong

- 2 pieces of dried soy bean paste

- 7 dried red hot chili

- 5 shallots

- 5 cloves of garlic

- 2 cups of chopped tomatoes

- 1 cup of chopped oyster mushrooms

- 1 cup of mashed firm tofu

- 1 tbsp of chopped lemongrass

- 1 tbsp of oil

- 1 tsp of salt

- 3 tbsp of soy sauce

- 2 tsp of sugar

- frac14 cup of water

- 3 stems of coriander

- 2 tbsp of chopped spring onion

Roast chili shallots garlic and

dried soybean paste until fragrant

Put in a mortar together with

lemon grass and crush

Heat up oil in a wok Add the mixture

of the mortar Fry until fragrant

Add tomatoes mushrooms tofu and water

Add seasoning salt soy sauce and sugar

Stir and let it simmer until tomatoes

are soft and well mixed together

The taste should be little bit spicy

sour and salty

Add more seasoning to taste

Put in bowl and garnish with

coriander and spring onion

Serve with rice and fresh steamed or raw

vegetables such as cabbage

cucumber or egg plants

Enjoy

With thanks to Thai Farm Cooking School

A Morning with an Elephant Vet

A 45 minute drive through the morning traffic

heading towards Mae Taeng located to the

north of Chiang Mai on our way to visit an

elephant park One of many elephant camps or

parks around Thailand catering for the gawking

tourists taking them on elephant rides and

doing tricks like playing football or painting

pictures However few travellers ever give a

second thought about the actual welfare of

these great creatures whose natural habitat

has been eroded away Our focus today was

going to be the work of a local veterinarian who

has spent the last 4 years with the Mae Taeng

Elephant Park and Clinic running their veterinary

facility

Upon our arrival I headed off to meet with the

parks general manager Khun Nu who informed

us that their resident vet would be arriving

shortly After a short wander around the park we

headed in the direction of the medical facilities

which comprised of what I would describe

as a kind of lsquowaiting roomrsquo area for the sick

elephants a large roofed structure able to house

several of the large animals Next to this was

one of two treatment areas again a large shed

construction with a very sturdy looking steel

frame set into the concrete floor to which the

elephants can be tethered while being seen by

the vet

Approaching the waiting area a slight figure

wearing a green surgical smock could be seen

with a mahout crouched under the head of a

young female elephant treating its neck the

first patient of the day The cow as females are

known was being treated for some sores around

the neck The vet was daubing the area with

disinfectant to help prevent infection working

quickly and efficiently in silence unaware of our

presence

The vet a 28 year old woman going by the

nickname of lsquoImrsquo (a short vowel sounding i as

in it) has been working at the elephant clinic

since she graduated 4 years previously from the

Faculty of Veterinary Medicine at Chiang Mai

University after completing a 6 year veterinary

degree Her love of these majestic creatures

was the focus of her dissertation Working daily

from 9 to 5 keeps her pretty busy with the park

employing her on a full-time basis

The second elephant to be seen by Im was

housed in an older treatment area nearby This

time the problem was a cut on the bottom of its

foot caused by walking on some glass

With the elephants mahout on-hand to assist

Im first had to check to see if there was any

remaining glass in the wound This done the next

stage was cleaning the injury which was done

using a giant foot bath

The elephantrsquos mahout guided the elephant into

position so that her front feet would be standing

in the disinfecting solution But rather than just

walking the animal through the solution the

elephant had to stand patiently with its feet in the

foot bath for a whole hour

During the treatment the elephantrsquos tether was lying unsecured on the floor but she stood calmly allowing

the vet to do her task even being in some discomfort It shows how trusting these animals can be with

humans The female elephant must have known that Im was there to help her

During an average day Im will treat 4 or 5 elephants usually foot injuries and other such problems as we

witnessed that morning cleaning and disinfecting wounds to prevent infection When she does have

a quieter day Imrsquos time is taken up with the general wellbeing of the elephants with nail trimming and

administrating drugs However her work isnrsquot limited to the park elephants

On occasion elephants outside the park require help so they can contact Im who will go out to the

surrounding area and provide a mobile clinic This service is provided free of charge courtesy of the park and

is a much appreciated service to the elephants who do not have a fixed home and whose mahouts cannot

otherwise afford treatment for their animals

With the sun approaching the meridian we said our farewells and headed back to town with the peace of

mind knowing that the magnificent elephants would be in the capable hands of Im the vet who cares and

treats them day to day

International Training Massage School

On a peaceful street a short walk from Chiang

Mairsquos old city is the International Training Massage

School An airy modern building in the traditional

Lanna style welcomes beginners seeking to learn

the basics of traditional Thai massage as well as

seasoned massage professionals looking to expand

their skills

Thai Guru is well used to being on the receiving

end of a skilful pair of hands of belonging to an

experienced masseuse so were pleased to be

invited to join the students at ITM to learn a bit more

about the training that is required to perform one of

the best things about living in Thailand

Chiang Mai is a mecca for those wishing to

spend a few days a few weeks or a few months

learning the art of Nuad Boran or lsquoancient

Thai Massagersquo Massage is serious business

in this part of the world and schools like ITM

tech everything from introduction courses

to advanced teacher training There are also

some quite specific classes on offer including

pregnancy massage hot stone healing massage

and infant massage

The ITM students turn up to begin their studies

early in the morning Shoes and sandals are left

outside the building next to a decorative koi

carp pond comfortable loose fitting pyjamas

are donned feet are washed and it is off to one

of the yoga studios to settle down and the first

blessing of the day Prayers are offered up by

students and teachers to Dr Shivago Komarpaj

Buddharsquos physician and the father of Thai

massage

Traditional Thai massage is practiced without

oils unguents or lotions and both giver and

receiver keep their clothes on The therapy

involves the compression rocking stretching

and manipulation of the joints and muscles

rather than the rubbing and stroking often

employed in other forms of massage

Once the prayers and blessings have been given up it is time for the students to get themselves ready for

the dayrsquos exertions by stretching To the relaxing sounds of flute music a teacher guides the trainees through

a set of yoga moves On the morning Thai Guru visited there were fifteen students being gently told to

assume the lsquosupermanrsquo and kick their legs into the air for the lsquoreverse bicyclersquo

We were informed that the combination of rhythmic stretches traditionally used by yogis and hermits (who

probably better than anyone know the importance of a good stretch) as well as warming up the studentsrsquo

bodies help the novices to understand better what they will be doing to the bodies of those they are about

to massage

A short break for coffee and bananas in a quiet courtyard watched over by a shrine to Dr Shivago and itrsquos

back to the classroom for a demonstration of the significance of some basic Nuad Boran moves The

students gather round books with detailed diagrams open on their laps to study how to perfect moves like

lsquothe flamingorsquo and lsquothe last tangorsquo among others

The founder of the school Mr Chongkol Setthakorn takes over the class for

the serious task of making sure the students have been paying attention and

arenrsquot in the process of giving each other hernias A quick prayer is said and

the real business of bending stretching and joint crunching begins

The students we met had been training for between three and four weeks

However courses at ITM and indeed at schools across Chiang Mai can be

tailored to fit the requirements of anyone who wishes to get involved in an

activity that gives enormous pleasure to both the giver and receiver - as Mr

Settakorn astutely explains ldquoThai Massage is like a thousand gentle waves

washing over the bodyrdquo

ITM ndash International Training Massage School

599 Chang Puak Road

Soi 4 Chor

Sriphum

Muang Chiang Mai

50200 THAILAND

Phone +66-5321-8632

Mobile +66-83-763-1002

Email itmitmthaimassagecom

wwwitmthaimassagecom

Krabi dream destination

After a couple of weeks traveling through

Thailand many are looking for the

perfect location to spend their last days

of their vancation Perfection doesnrsquot

exist but dream destination Krabi is gets

close

Located in the south west of Thailand

Krabi is also thanks to its airport an easy

destination to reach

You will notice the friendly atmosphere in this

area of Thailand right away

A couple of must sees like the Emerald Pond

and the Hot Waterfall are definitely worth your

visit Imagine relaxing in a the hot waterfall

under the exotic trees

And of course an island tour is a must when

you are in Krabi

By boat you can visit Por da Koh Hong Koh Kai

and the famous Pranang cave

Khao Yai National Park

Since establishing Thai Guru Magazine

we have been eager to take our

cameras to Khao Yai National Park

Having visited the area previously

I had already enjoyed the beauty

of Khao Yai and the abundance of

wildlife to be seen there and was keen

to share it with the rest of the team

Finally at the end of January we

jumped in the car for the long drive

south from

Chiang Mai

Three hours northeast of Bangkok Khao Yai

is the oldest and third largest national park

in Thailand Grasslands evergreen forests

monsoon forests and rain forests cover more

than 2000 square kilometres of this Unesco

World Heritage site

The park is teeming with wildlife Mammals

including elephant gibbon barking deer and

guar live within the parkrsquos borders The area

is also home to carnivores such as Asian wild

dogs and tigers as well as numerous reptiles and

amphibians including king cobras pythons and

monitor lizards Nearly 400 species of bird can

be found at Khao Yai Other attractions in this

trekkersrsquo paradise include several large waterfalls

The 20 metre Haew Suwat waterfall with is

deep pool was made famous by the film lsquoThe

Beachrsquo

Day 1The road leading to the gates of Khao Yai National Park is notable for its

numerous Italian influenced restaurants hotels and guesthouses A paradise

for pizza and pasta lovers there is even a small Italian-style village with ice-

cream parlours eateries and Italian themed guesthouses Almost immediately

after entering the park we were greeted by the sight of black giant squirrels

and pig tailed macaques clamouring in the canopy all around us Our first stop

was the visitor centre where we picked up a map of the park and other useful

information Outside were several sambar deer picking through restaurant

leftovers The rest of the day was spent exploring spots in which to set up

our cameras the following day We also made the first of several walks to the

observation tower adjacent to Nong Pak Chee reservoir As well as fabulous

views of the park the tower overlooks a saltlick where all manner of wildlife

gathers to suck up vital minerals and nutrients

Day 2Khao Yai is extremely popular with visitors and we could only

book lodging within its borders for the last two days of our trip

This meant an early start so we could get into the park in time to

shoot the sunrise We were the first visitors of the day and drove

to one of the places we had explored the day before We came

across what we thought was one of the many sambar or barking

deer that roam freely around the park We decided to take a

closer look only to find we had stumbled across an Asiatic black

bear half hidden in the morning mist Having spotted us after a

few minutes the handsome creature ambled off into the forest

The dawn had barely broken and our day was already a triumph

The rest of our time was spent following gibbons various varieties

deer and innumerable brightly coloured birds

Day 3Today we were fortunate to be allowed to move

ourselves and our equipment into government-

owned lodgings within the park Our first

mission was to set our cameras up at a place

where we had heard the heavy distinctive

rushing of wings and calls of hornbills (described

by some as sounding like the puffing of a steam

locomotive) the day before

We had expected a long wait but already had

our first shots of this impressive bird in the

can before breakfast We spent many hours

photographing hornbills macaque and other

wildlife

We even stumbled upon a pack of Asian wild

dogs gathered around the carcass of a recently

killed deer We thought our wildlife encounters

for the day were over as we sat down to enjoy

dinner only to be disturbed by scuffling sounds

behind our bungalow The noise was being

made by a pair of porcupines who were not in

the least afraid of us and actually attempted to

chase us away

Day 4The day was spent exploring the trails of Khao Yai and discovering among other wildlife a magnificent

crested serpent eagle As the afternoon drew to a close we decided to take one last trip to the watchtower

From here we witnessed the gathering of a large flock of hornbills We showed some of our footage to a

friendly ranger He was particularly interested in our bear shots We were thrilled to be told that it was very

rare to see a black bear even more so when we were informed that none of the rangers had seen one for

a number of months I decided to leave the tower to find a good place to photograph the sunset Within

a matter of minutes I heard someone scream ldquoBEARrdquo and was back up the stairs in seconds There below

us taking an evening stroll through the grass just metres from where we were perched was another much

younger black bear

Our trip could not have ended better Needless

to say Thai Guru thoroughly recommends a visit

to Khao Yai National Park As already mentioned

the park is popular with both local and foreign

tourists especially on holidays and weekends

We advise that you try to visit during the week

when the park is quieter and the chance of

seeing the amazing wildlife is greater

The park has two camping grounds as well as a

few bungalows that can be booked through the

Department of National Parks Wildlife and Plant

Conservation These need to be booked well

in advance However there are also plenty of

guesthouses and hotels are to be found along

the parkrsquos boundaries

Festival of LanternsThe enchanting atmosphere of Loi Krathong

The weather is cooling down and itrsquos

that time of year again when we all

take to the waterways of Thailand and

give praise to Khongkha the water

Goddess who took care of abundant

rainfall in the past raining season

Donrsquot miss this joyful celebration with

its enchanting atmosphere that brings

one and all in Thailand together

much like Songkran

Thailandrsquos lsquoFestival of Lightsrsquo is celebrated

throughout the kingdom on the night of the

November full moon The end of the rainy

season heralds the coolest months in the

countryrsquos calendar when the river waters are

also supposed to be at their highest

Superstition replaces religion on this night as

thousands flock to the banks of the swollen

rivers and canals to release khratongs floating

tributes to the river spirits and Mother Water ndash

Phra Mae Khongkha In recent years the festival

has been revived in the ancient temples of

Thailandrsquos former capital Sukhothai

Visitors assemble in the Sukhothai Historical

Park with their banana leaf khratongs decorated

with flowers incense sticks and candles to take

part in a ceremony that dates back centuries

Sometimes a coin is added as gift to the spirits

The pretty rafts are then released onto the lake

with a wish

It was once believed that Loi Khratong

was actually created in Sukhothai by Nang

Nopphamas a lady of the court and consort

of the king In fact the celebration was adapted

by Thai Buddhists from a Brahmanical festival

adapted to honour Buddha

The khratong is meant to be a light on the

darkness of the water for Buddha A personrsquos

sins and negative thoughts are also believed to

float away with the colourful little raft Try adding

a lock of your hair for extra luck

Nearly 20 of the Northern provinces will be

showing off a dazzling selection of floats in the

Royal Khratongs Procession as well as holding a

Miss Nopphamat beauty contest

A competition is held for the most beautifully

designed khratong as well as plenty of other

Sukhothai arts and cultural performances

The Light-and-Sound Presentation at Wat

Mahathat explains the history and origins of

Sukhothai and Loi Khratong through dance

music prayer combat displays light effects and

fireworks No Loi Khratong would be complete

without fireworks and thankfully the Thais are

not shy when it comes to blowing things up in

the sky

Tra Kuan pond is the place to be for the floating

of the Royal Khratongs followed by more

firmament-filling pyrotechnics Wat Chana

Songkram is the venue for the Mahachat

sermon Khon Marked Dance and a Thai

classical music performance

Thai Guru decided to travel from Chiang Mai

to Sukhotai for this yearrsquos festivities Although

the heavens decided to open for most of the

celebrations on the final day the rain could not

dampen the celebrations and the spectacle was

jaw dropping

The only thing that was missing due to the rain

was a sky filled with khom loi the sky lanterns

usually released into the firmament in their

hundreds

Although the festivities officially last for the best

part of a week it is the last three days that are

the busiest

Visitors can join in with a range of activities

including fruit carving or just wander around the

historic park listening to live traditional music

watching Thai martial arts or join the parade

of dancers musicians and beauty contestants

all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured

costumes

There are numerous places to stay for the

duration of the festival but it is advisable to

book ahead if you can because this is a very

popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north

from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai Temples

A visit to a temple in Thailand is

unavoidable They are everywhere

We at Thai Guru are well aware that

because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can

quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang

Mai With this in mind (and because

the city is overflowing with hundreds

of them) we have chosen a few of

our favourites we hope are slightly

alternative to the ones on the usual

tourist itinerary

Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to

the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its

latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of

the skills of the local silversmiths Like many

of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was

established several centuries ago The ubosoth

or ordination hall is an intricately designed

silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in

the sunlight

The area around Wua Lai has been the home to

silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past

couple of centuries who are famed throughout

the kingdom for creating detailed embossed

relief patterns on the objects they create

something that is immediately evident and

celebrated at Wat Srisuphan

The larger more traditionally decorated red blue

and gold prayer hall also contains impressive

silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos

life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft

museum

Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the

artisans at work and the temple has its own

silver-working school where apprentices are

trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive

Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved

in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-

robed residents of the temple improve their

linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also

available

Unfortunately women are not allowed to

enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this

is explained on a sign outside the wording of

which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in

the monastic boundary many precious things

incantations amulets and other holy objects

were buried over 500 years ago Entering

inside this area may deteriorated the place or

otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most

of the interior can be appreciated from the

doorway

Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous

for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged

Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai

Due to its being less well advertised than its

neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham

is often a more peaceful temple from which

to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang

Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist

Lent when the place was alive with worshippers

Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once

the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic

giants Following a visit from the Buddha the

giants decided to mend their ways stop eating

their neighbours and convert to Buddhism

For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and

offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the

templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally

constructed towards the end of the 7th century

Although the temple fell into disrepair over the

centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered

a chamber containing a number of Buddha

images The discovery led to the revitalisation of

this mountain top temple

The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are

guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured

sword-wielding warriors The courtyard

overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and

bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of

food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the

road leading to the temple

Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-

west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek

and easily accessible by car or taxi

Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai

was being established the name translates

as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably

because it was used to cast Buddha images for

its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The

entrance to the temple is through a small but

intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos

assembly hall is notable because it is one of the

only viharns of its type constructed solely from

teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a

superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock

astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference

to the king who once used the wooden hall as

his palace The gilded image features mythical

creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured

glass

The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite

from the busy road outside Wooden boxes

contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm

leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a

large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors

Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks

like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a

small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less

imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo

temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru

recommends a quick visit if you are passing

Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous

temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi

Luang

The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the

largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it

was damaged either by an earthquake in the

16th century or cannon fire from the guns

of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese

in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO

funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps

up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga

serpents and a group of five elephants (only the

one without a trunk or ears partially survived

whatever caused the structure to collapse the

others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi

was also once home to one of the most revered

religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald

Buddha Although the original now resides in

Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and

once again looks out over the city from a niche

on the east side of the structure

Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and

now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly

hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance

is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a

great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar

housed in a building at the base of the tree

Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although

one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few

alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed

Mae Hong Son

It is said that Mae Hong Son is the

most authentic and mountainous

province of Thailand For Thai Guru a

good reason to explore this province

side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai

province

Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of

Thailand The northern most part of this

province is at a distance of 924 km from

Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province

in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son

borders Myanmar On the south and east side it

borders Tak and Chiang Mai province

We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast

on the 108 road The scenery is woody and

mountainous so far so good And as we leave

the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek

for wildlife and beautiful landscapes

The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage

is that our average speed drops to less than

15 km hour No worries when you do trips

like these the clock stops and the only thing

on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning

landscapes that unfold before your eyes

The main road is well paved But as you might

understand we regularly go off road

This is the best way to come into contact with

locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo

While we are standing somewhere taking in the

beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a

falcon calling

A short walk through the forrest the sound

stops and we decide to sit down for some

water and well earned rest After a short while I

hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo

There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters

above us a white rumped falcon

Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras

it stays there and even when we start making

noises because we want to film it in flight it

takes itrsquos time

Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of

Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They

cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more

Of course they also have their own cattle And

walking through one of their small villages they

are very friendly and hospitable

It has to be said it is never smart to enter

a community or people with your camera

as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask

the people if they mind if you taking their

photograph or want to film their daily life

In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to

the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean

and offers a nice variety food on the terrace

with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city

where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists

Really nice to stroll down the walking street and

find food or a nice souvenir People are very

friendly as usual

From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae

Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an

average speed of 15 km hour

Halfway we jump out of the car into a river

Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to

keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn

but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around

without it

Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome

us and are gladly willing to allow us to make

photographs and film them

In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early

morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises

For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum

After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark

Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon

So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team

ChinatownBangkok

Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese

people in big cities around the world

Manhattan San Francisco Manilla

Paris and Boston have them and

more keep being officially recognised

in their role as historical and touristic

center every year Even places like

Dubai and Las Vegas have modern

day versions of this phenomenon

As soon as you pass under one of the famous

large red entrance arches you arrive in a

complete different world

A world that is paradise for photographers

A couple of the photographers in the Thai

Guru team decided to spend some time in the

Bangkok version of Chinatown

If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for

some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at

Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim

Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat

SLEEPY NANA dream destination

Relatively unknown and uncrowded

Nan has it all This gem of a province

hides an abundance of cultural and

natural attractions ancient temples

pristine forests rivers mountain

peaks but what strikes you most is

its omnipresent feel of an untroubled

authentic way of life

Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings

you this genuine feel in pictures and footage

For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of

Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant

nature and the nature of its people show

Thailand - as is often said before hordes of

tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas

it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan

managed to escape this proces but will it stay

that way Nan shares most of its border with

neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening

of the border and beyond towards China it is to

be expected that it will ultimately become an

important gateway for trade and tourism

Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town

and the countryside will enchant you and the natural

cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy

for at least a couple of days The town along the banks

of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base

to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night

life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous

temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue

influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The

great surroundings can best be explored by renting a

motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo

Much of the province is devoted to farming

Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still

being practised in areas of the province resulting

in a landscape where forests and fields alternate

Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside

of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature

peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich

natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the

province sees far fewer visitors than popular

neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You

can go white water rafting on the Wa River

along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim

National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay

overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes

Touring Nan

Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern

lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities

of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old

salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via

endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges

and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with

orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers

Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready

to be harvested broke through the green hills

giving a golden hue to the landscape

We encountered friendly villagers who worked

their way through the dry fields - meanwhile

singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to

supplement their meager incomes Despite their

hardship they showed us their heartwarming

hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes

with us

This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi

Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and

sparsely populated that we only passed two

cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos

difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand

nowadays

PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river

The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness

begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over

the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above

the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is

broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices

Then the carved image of a Naga becomes

visible above the water line followed by more

than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted

in red and gold colorshellip

During the year the remote provincial town

of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a

year for the annual spectacle of traditional

Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos

water artery The finals are held over two

days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos

banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite

team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in

Thailand yet relatively unknown

The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long

simple shelters where the massive dragon boats

are housed during the year Just once a year

they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos

most important sporting and social event The

event takes place right after the end of the

rainy season around early November when

water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at

their highest The colorful races are part of the

festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the

last day of Buddhist Lent in October

The narrow boats are made from massive

hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters

in length depending how many paddlers they

are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily

distinguishable by their use of bright colors and

mythical designs in the traditional local style

The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of

each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting

only the good ones to participate in their race

How to get there

Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is

connected by plane and by bus to the rest of

the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan

Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice

each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to

Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to

Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on

the service

Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan

(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8

hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)

The contestants of the races are classified into

three categories mdashlarge medium and small

boats Depending on their length each boat can

accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers

sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the

same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously

against the current to the frantic beating of a

drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern

The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying

their attempt to reach the finish line first and

the paddles churning up the river creates a

spectacular atmosphere

Son

g K

ran

in

Ch

ian

g M

ai

Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of

the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down

in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The

days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing

steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the

hot months of April and May The stifling mid-

day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out

unless necessary The buzz around town about

some festival called Song Kran is starting to

increase an underlying excitement rising

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
  2. Button 4
  3. Button 9
  4. previous
  5. next
Page 4: Thaiguru issue10

- 2 pieces of dried soy bean paste

- 7 dried red hot chili

- 5 shallots

- 5 cloves of garlic

- 2 cups of chopped tomatoes

- 1 cup of chopped oyster mushrooms

- 1 cup of mashed firm tofu

- 1 tbsp of chopped lemongrass

- 1 tbsp of oil

- 1 tsp of salt

- 3 tbsp of soy sauce

- 2 tsp of sugar

- frac14 cup of water

- 3 stems of coriander

- 2 tbsp of chopped spring onion

Roast chili shallots garlic and

dried soybean paste until fragrant

Put in a mortar together with

lemon grass and crush

Heat up oil in a wok Add the mixture

of the mortar Fry until fragrant

Add tomatoes mushrooms tofu and water

Add seasoning salt soy sauce and sugar

Stir and let it simmer until tomatoes

are soft and well mixed together

The taste should be little bit spicy

sour and salty

Add more seasoning to taste

Put in bowl and garnish with

coriander and spring onion

Serve with rice and fresh steamed or raw

vegetables such as cabbage

cucumber or egg plants

Enjoy

With thanks to Thai Farm Cooking School

A Morning with an Elephant Vet

A 45 minute drive through the morning traffic

heading towards Mae Taeng located to the

north of Chiang Mai on our way to visit an

elephant park One of many elephant camps or

parks around Thailand catering for the gawking

tourists taking them on elephant rides and

doing tricks like playing football or painting

pictures However few travellers ever give a

second thought about the actual welfare of

these great creatures whose natural habitat

has been eroded away Our focus today was

going to be the work of a local veterinarian who

has spent the last 4 years with the Mae Taeng

Elephant Park and Clinic running their veterinary

facility

Upon our arrival I headed off to meet with the

parks general manager Khun Nu who informed

us that their resident vet would be arriving

shortly After a short wander around the park we

headed in the direction of the medical facilities

which comprised of what I would describe

as a kind of lsquowaiting roomrsquo area for the sick

elephants a large roofed structure able to house

several of the large animals Next to this was

one of two treatment areas again a large shed

construction with a very sturdy looking steel

frame set into the concrete floor to which the

elephants can be tethered while being seen by

the vet

Approaching the waiting area a slight figure

wearing a green surgical smock could be seen

with a mahout crouched under the head of a

young female elephant treating its neck the

first patient of the day The cow as females are

known was being treated for some sores around

the neck The vet was daubing the area with

disinfectant to help prevent infection working

quickly and efficiently in silence unaware of our

presence

The vet a 28 year old woman going by the

nickname of lsquoImrsquo (a short vowel sounding i as

in it) has been working at the elephant clinic

since she graduated 4 years previously from the

Faculty of Veterinary Medicine at Chiang Mai

University after completing a 6 year veterinary

degree Her love of these majestic creatures

was the focus of her dissertation Working daily

from 9 to 5 keeps her pretty busy with the park

employing her on a full-time basis

The second elephant to be seen by Im was

housed in an older treatment area nearby This

time the problem was a cut on the bottom of its

foot caused by walking on some glass

With the elephants mahout on-hand to assist

Im first had to check to see if there was any

remaining glass in the wound This done the next

stage was cleaning the injury which was done

using a giant foot bath

The elephantrsquos mahout guided the elephant into

position so that her front feet would be standing

in the disinfecting solution But rather than just

walking the animal through the solution the

elephant had to stand patiently with its feet in the

foot bath for a whole hour

During the treatment the elephantrsquos tether was lying unsecured on the floor but she stood calmly allowing

the vet to do her task even being in some discomfort It shows how trusting these animals can be with

humans The female elephant must have known that Im was there to help her

During an average day Im will treat 4 or 5 elephants usually foot injuries and other such problems as we

witnessed that morning cleaning and disinfecting wounds to prevent infection When she does have

a quieter day Imrsquos time is taken up with the general wellbeing of the elephants with nail trimming and

administrating drugs However her work isnrsquot limited to the park elephants

On occasion elephants outside the park require help so they can contact Im who will go out to the

surrounding area and provide a mobile clinic This service is provided free of charge courtesy of the park and

is a much appreciated service to the elephants who do not have a fixed home and whose mahouts cannot

otherwise afford treatment for their animals

With the sun approaching the meridian we said our farewells and headed back to town with the peace of

mind knowing that the magnificent elephants would be in the capable hands of Im the vet who cares and

treats them day to day

International Training Massage School

On a peaceful street a short walk from Chiang

Mairsquos old city is the International Training Massage

School An airy modern building in the traditional

Lanna style welcomes beginners seeking to learn

the basics of traditional Thai massage as well as

seasoned massage professionals looking to expand

their skills

Thai Guru is well used to being on the receiving

end of a skilful pair of hands of belonging to an

experienced masseuse so were pleased to be

invited to join the students at ITM to learn a bit more

about the training that is required to perform one of

the best things about living in Thailand

Chiang Mai is a mecca for those wishing to

spend a few days a few weeks or a few months

learning the art of Nuad Boran or lsquoancient

Thai Massagersquo Massage is serious business

in this part of the world and schools like ITM

tech everything from introduction courses

to advanced teacher training There are also

some quite specific classes on offer including

pregnancy massage hot stone healing massage

and infant massage

The ITM students turn up to begin their studies

early in the morning Shoes and sandals are left

outside the building next to a decorative koi

carp pond comfortable loose fitting pyjamas

are donned feet are washed and it is off to one

of the yoga studios to settle down and the first

blessing of the day Prayers are offered up by

students and teachers to Dr Shivago Komarpaj

Buddharsquos physician and the father of Thai

massage

Traditional Thai massage is practiced without

oils unguents or lotions and both giver and

receiver keep their clothes on The therapy

involves the compression rocking stretching

and manipulation of the joints and muscles

rather than the rubbing and stroking often

employed in other forms of massage

Once the prayers and blessings have been given up it is time for the students to get themselves ready for

the dayrsquos exertions by stretching To the relaxing sounds of flute music a teacher guides the trainees through

a set of yoga moves On the morning Thai Guru visited there were fifteen students being gently told to

assume the lsquosupermanrsquo and kick their legs into the air for the lsquoreverse bicyclersquo

We were informed that the combination of rhythmic stretches traditionally used by yogis and hermits (who

probably better than anyone know the importance of a good stretch) as well as warming up the studentsrsquo

bodies help the novices to understand better what they will be doing to the bodies of those they are about

to massage

A short break for coffee and bananas in a quiet courtyard watched over by a shrine to Dr Shivago and itrsquos

back to the classroom for a demonstration of the significance of some basic Nuad Boran moves The

students gather round books with detailed diagrams open on their laps to study how to perfect moves like

lsquothe flamingorsquo and lsquothe last tangorsquo among others

The founder of the school Mr Chongkol Setthakorn takes over the class for

the serious task of making sure the students have been paying attention and

arenrsquot in the process of giving each other hernias A quick prayer is said and

the real business of bending stretching and joint crunching begins

The students we met had been training for between three and four weeks

However courses at ITM and indeed at schools across Chiang Mai can be

tailored to fit the requirements of anyone who wishes to get involved in an

activity that gives enormous pleasure to both the giver and receiver - as Mr

Settakorn astutely explains ldquoThai Massage is like a thousand gentle waves

washing over the bodyrdquo

ITM ndash International Training Massage School

599 Chang Puak Road

Soi 4 Chor

Sriphum

Muang Chiang Mai

50200 THAILAND

Phone +66-5321-8632

Mobile +66-83-763-1002

Email itmitmthaimassagecom

wwwitmthaimassagecom

Krabi dream destination

After a couple of weeks traveling through

Thailand many are looking for the

perfect location to spend their last days

of their vancation Perfection doesnrsquot

exist but dream destination Krabi is gets

close

Located in the south west of Thailand

Krabi is also thanks to its airport an easy

destination to reach

You will notice the friendly atmosphere in this

area of Thailand right away

A couple of must sees like the Emerald Pond

and the Hot Waterfall are definitely worth your

visit Imagine relaxing in a the hot waterfall

under the exotic trees

And of course an island tour is a must when

you are in Krabi

By boat you can visit Por da Koh Hong Koh Kai

and the famous Pranang cave

Khao Yai National Park

Since establishing Thai Guru Magazine

we have been eager to take our

cameras to Khao Yai National Park

Having visited the area previously

I had already enjoyed the beauty

of Khao Yai and the abundance of

wildlife to be seen there and was keen

to share it with the rest of the team

Finally at the end of January we

jumped in the car for the long drive

south from

Chiang Mai

Three hours northeast of Bangkok Khao Yai

is the oldest and third largest national park

in Thailand Grasslands evergreen forests

monsoon forests and rain forests cover more

than 2000 square kilometres of this Unesco

World Heritage site

The park is teeming with wildlife Mammals

including elephant gibbon barking deer and

guar live within the parkrsquos borders The area

is also home to carnivores such as Asian wild

dogs and tigers as well as numerous reptiles and

amphibians including king cobras pythons and

monitor lizards Nearly 400 species of bird can

be found at Khao Yai Other attractions in this

trekkersrsquo paradise include several large waterfalls

The 20 metre Haew Suwat waterfall with is

deep pool was made famous by the film lsquoThe

Beachrsquo

Day 1The road leading to the gates of Khao Yai National Park is notable for its

numerous Italian influenced restaurants hotels and guesthouses A paradise

for pizza and pasta lovers there is even a small Italian-style village with ice-

cream parlours eateries and Italian themed guesthouses Almost immediately

after entering the park we were greeted by the sight of black giant squirrels

and pig tailed macaques clamouring in the canopy all around us Our first stop

was the visitor centre where we picked up a map of the park and other useful

information Outside were several sambar deer picking through restaurant

leftovers The rest of the day was spent exploring spots in which to set up

our cameras the following day We also made the first of several walks to the

observation tower adjacent to Nong Pak Chee reservoir As well as fabulous

views of the park the tower overlooks a saltlick where all manner of wildlife

gathers to suck up vital minerals and nutrients

Day 2Khao Yai is extremely popular with visitors and we could only

book lodging within its borders for the last two days of our trip

This meant an early start so we could get into the park in time to

shoot the sunrise We were the first visitors of the day and drove

to one of the places we had explored the day before We came

across what we thought was one of the many sambar or barking

deer that roam freely around the park We decided to take a

closer look only to find we had stumbled across an Asiatic black

bear half hidden in the morning mist Having spotted us after a

few minutes the handsome creature ambled off into the forest

The dawn had barely broken and our day was already a triumph

The rest of our time was spent following gibbons various varieties

deer and innumerable brightly coloured birds

Day 3Today we were fortunate to be allowed to move

ourselves and our equipment into government-

owned lodgings within the park Our first

mission was to set our cameras up at a place

where we had heard the heavy distinctive

rushing of wings and calls of hornbills (described

by some as sounding like the puffing of a steam

locomotive) the day before

We had expected a long wait but already had

our first shots of this impressive bird in the

can before breakfast We spent many hours

photographing hornbills macaque and other

wildlife

We even stumbled upon a pack of Asian wild

dogs gathered around the carcass of a recently

killed deer We thought our wildlife encounters

for the day were over as we sat down to enjoy

dinner only to be disturbed by scuffling sounds

behind our bungalow The noise was being

made by a pair of porcupines who were not in

the least afraid of us and actually attempted to

chase us away

Day 4The day was spent exploring the trails of Khao Yai and discovering among other wildlife a magnificent

crested serpent eagle As the afternoon drew to a close we decided to take one last trip to the watchtower

From here we witnessed the gathering of a large flock of hornbills We showed some of our footage to a

friendly ranger He was particularly interested in our bear shots We were thrilled to be told that it was very

rare to see a black bear even more so when we were informed that none of the rangers had seen one for

a number of months I decided to leave the tower to find a good place to photograph the sunset Within

a matter of minutes I heard someone scream ldquoBEARrdquo and was back up the stairs in seconds There below

us taking an evening stroll through the grass just metres from where we were perched was another much

younger black bear

Our trip could not have ended better Needless

to say Thai Guru thoroughly recommends a visit

to Khao Yai National Park As already mentioned

the park is popular with both local and foreign

tourists especially on holidays and weekends

We advise that you try to visit during the week

when the park is quieter and the chance of

seeing the amazing wildlife is greater

The park has two camping grounds as well as a

few bungalows that can be booked through the

Department of National Parks Wildlife and Plant

Conservation These need to be booked well

in advance However there are also plenty of

guesthouses and hotels are to be found along

the parkrsquos boundaries

Festival of LanternsThe enchanting atmosphere of Loi Krathong

The weather is cooling down and itrsquos

that time of year again when we all

take to the waterways of Thailand and

give praise to Khongkha the water

Goddess who took care of abundant

rainfall in the past raining season

Donrsquot miss this joyful celebration with

its enchanting atmosphere that brings

one and all in Thailand together

much like Songkran

Thailandrsquos lsquoFestival of Lightsrsquo is celebrated

throughout the kingdom on the night of the

November full moon The end of the rainy

season heralds the coolest months in the

countryrsquos calendar when the river waters are

also supposed to be at their highest

Superstition replaces religion on this night as

thousands flock to the banks of the swollen

rivers and canals to release khratongs floating

tributes to the river spirits and Mother Water ndash

Phra Mae Khongkha In recent years the festival

has been revived in the ancient temples of

Thailandrsquos former capital Sukhothai

Visitors assemble in the Sukhothai Historical

Park with their banana leaf khratongs decorated

with flowers incense sticks and candles to take

part in a ceremony that dates back centuries

Sometimes a coin is added as gift to the spirits

The pretty rafts are then released onto the lake

with a wish

It was once believed that Loi Khratong

was actually created in Sukhothai by Nang

Nopphamas a lady of the court and consort

of the king In fact the celebration was adapted

by Thai Buddhists from a Brahmanical festival

adapted to honour Buddha

The khratong is meant to be a light on the

darkness of the water for Buddha A personrsquos

sins and negative thoughts are also believed to

float away with the colourful little raft Try adding

a lock of your hair for extra luck

Nearly 20 of the Northern provinces will be

showing off a dazzling selection of floats in the

Royal Khratongs Procession as well as holding a

Miss Nopphamat beauty contest

A competition is held for the most beautifully

designed khratong as well as plenty of other

Sukhothai arts and cultural performances

The Light-and-Sound Presentation at Wat

Mahathat explains the history and origins of

Sukhothai and Loi Khratong through dance

music prayer combat displays light effects and

fireworks No Loi Khratong would be complete

without fireworks and thankfully the Thais are

not shy when it comes to blowing things up in

the sky

Tra Kuan pond is the place to be for the floating

of the Royal Khratongs followed by more

firmament-filling pyrotechnics Wat Chana

Songkram is the venue for the Mahachat

sermon Khon Marked Dance and a Thai

classical music performance

Thai Guru decided to travel from Chiang Mai

to Sukhotai for this yearrsquos festivities Although

the heavens decided to open for most of the

celebrations on the final day the rain could not

dampen the celebrations and the spectacle was

jaw dropping

The only thing that was missing due to the rain

was a sky filled with khom loi the sky lanterns

usually released into the firmament in their

hundreds

Although the festivities officially last for the best

part of a week it is the last three days that are

the busiest

Visitors can join in with a range of activities

including fruit carving or just wander around the

historic park listening to live traditional music

watching Thai martial arts or join the parade

of dancers musicians and beauty contestants

all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured

costumes

There are numerous places to stay for the

duration of the festival but it is advisable to

book ahead if you can because this is a very

popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north

from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai Temples

A visit to a temple in Thailand is

unavoidable They are everywhere

We at Thai Guru are well aware that

because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can

quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang

Mai With this in mind (and because

the city is overflowing with hundreds

of them) we have chosen a few of

our favourites we hope are slightly

alternative to the ones on the usual

tourist itinerary

Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to

the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its

latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of

the skills of the local silversmiths Like many

of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was

established several centuries ago The ubosoth

or ordination hall is an intricately designed

silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in

the sunlight

The area around Wua Lai has been the home to

silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past

couple of centuries who are famed throughout

the kingdom for creating detailed embossed

relief patterns on the objects they create

something that is immediately evident and

celebrated at Wat Srisuphan

The larger more traditionally decorated red blue

and gold prayer hall also contains impressive

silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos

life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft

museum

Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the

artisans at work and the temple has its own

silver-working school where apprentices are

trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive

Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved

in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-

robed residents of the temple improve their

linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also

available

Unfortunately women are not allowed to

enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this

is explained on a sign outside the wording of

which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in

the monastic boundary many precious things

incantations amulets and other holy objects

were buried over 500 years ago Entering

inside this area may deteriorated the place or

otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most

of the interior can be appreciated from the

doorway

Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous

for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged

Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai

Due to its being less well advertised than its

neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham

is often a more peaceful temple from which

to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang

Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist

Lent when the place was alive with worshippers

Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once

the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic

giants Following a visit from the Buddha the

giants decided to mend their ways stop eating

their neighbours and convert to Buddhism

For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and

offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the

templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally

constructed towards the end of the 7th century

Although the temple fell into disrepair over the

centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered

a chamber containing a number of Buddha

images The discovery led to the revitalisation of

this mountain top temple

The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are

guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured

sword-wielding warriors The courtyard

overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and

bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of

food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the

road leading to the temple

Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-

west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek

and easily accessible by car or taxi

Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai

was being established the name translates

as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably

because it was used to cast Buddha images for

its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The

entrance to the temple is through a small but

intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos

assembly hall is notable because it is one of the

only viharns of its type constructed solely from

teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a

superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock

astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference

to the king who once used the wooden hall as

his palace The gilded image features mythical

creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured

glass

The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite

from the busy road outside Wooden boxes

contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm

leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a

large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors

Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks

like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a

small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less

imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo

temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru

recommends a quick visit if you are passing

Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous

temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi

Luang

The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the

largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it

was damaged either by an earthquake in the

16th century or cannon fire from the guns

of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese

in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO

funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps

up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga

serpents and a group of five elephants (only the

one without a trunk or ears partially survived

whatever caused the structure to collapse the

others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi

was also once home to one of the most revered

religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald

Buddha Although the original now resides in

Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and

once again looks out over the city from a niche

on the east side of the structure

Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and

now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly

hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance

is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a

great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar

housed in a building at the base of the tree

Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although

one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few

alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed

Mae Hong Son

It is said that Mae Hong Son is the

most authentic and mountainous

province of Thailand For Thai Guru a

good reason to explore this province

side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai

province

Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of

Thailand The northern most part of this

province is at a distance of 924 km from

Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province

in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son

borders Myanmar On the south and east side it

borders Tak and Chiang Mai province

We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast

on the 108 road The scenery is woody and

mountainous so far so good And as we leave

the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek

for wildlife and beautiful landscapes

The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage

is that our average speed drops to less than

15 km hour No worries when you do trips

like these the clock stops and the only thing

on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning

landscapes that unfold before your eyes

The main road is well paved But as you might

understand we regularly go off road

This is the best way to come into contact with

locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo

While we are standing somewhere taking in the

beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a

falcon calling

A short walk through the forrest the sound

stops and we decide to sit down for some

water and well earned rest After a short while I

hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo

There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters

above us a white rumped falcon

Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras

it stays there and even when we start making

noises because we want to film it in flight it

takes itrsquos time

Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of

Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They

cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more

Of course they also have their own cattle And

walking through one of their small villages they

are very friendly and hospitable

It has to be said it is never smart to enter

a community or people with your camera

as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask

the people if they mind if you taking their

photograph or want to film their daily life

In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to

the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean

and offers a nice variety food on the terrace

with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city

where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists

Really nice to stroll down the walking street and

find food or a nice souvenir People are very

friendly as usual

From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae

Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an

average speed of 15 km hour

Halfway we jump out of the car into a river

Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to

keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn

but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around

without it

Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome

us and are gladly willing to allow us to make

photographs and film them

In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early

morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises

For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum

After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark

Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon

So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team

ChinatownBangkok

Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese

people in big cities around the world

Manhattan San Francisco Manilla

Paris and Boston have them and

more keep being officially recognised

in their role as historical and touristic

center every year Even places like

Dubai and Las Vegas have modern

day versions of this phenomenon

As soon as you pass under one of the famous

large red entrance arches you arrive in a

complete different world

A world that is paradise for photographers

A couple of the photographers in the Thai

Guru team decided to spend some time in the

Bangkok version of Chinatown

If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for

some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at

Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim

Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat

SLEEPY NANA dream destination

Relatively unknown and uncrowded

Nan has it all This gem of a province

hides an abundance of cultural and

natural attractions ancient temples

pristine forests rivers mountain

peaks but what strikes you most is

its omnipresent feel of an untroubled

authentic way of life

Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings

you this genuine feel in pictures and footage

For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of

Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant

nature and the nature of its people show

Thailand - as is often said before hordes of

tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas

it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan

managed to escape this proces but will it stay

that way Nan shares most of its border with

neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening

of the border and beyond towards China it is to

be expected that it will ultimately become an

important gateway for trade and tourism

Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town

and the countryside will enchant you and the natural

cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy

for at least a couple of days The town along the banks

of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base

to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night

life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous

temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue

influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The

great surroundings can best be explored by renting a

motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo

Much of the province is devoted to farming

Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still

being practised in areas of the province resulting

in a landscape where forests and fields alternate

Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside

of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature

peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich

natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the

province sees far fewer visitors than popular

neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You

can go white water rafting on the Wa River

along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim

National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay

overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes

Touring Nan

Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern

lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities

of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old

salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via

endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges

and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with

orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers

Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready

to be harvested broke through the green hills

giving a golden hue to the landscape

We encountered friendly villagers who worked

their way through the dry fields - meanwhile

singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to

supplement their meager incomes Despite their

hardship they showed us their heartwarming

hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes

with us

This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi

Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and

sparsely populated that we only passed two

cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos

difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand

nowadays

PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river

The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness

begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over

the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above

the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is

broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices

Then the carved image of a Naga becomes

visible above the water line followed by more

than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted

in red and gold colorshellip

During the year the remote provincial town

of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a

year for the annual spectacle of traditional

Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos

water artery The finals are held over two

days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos

banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite

team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in

Thailand yet relatively unknown

The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long

simple shelters where the massive dragon boats

are housed during the year Just once a year

they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos

most important sporting and social event The

event takes place right after the end of the

rainy season around early November when

water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at

their highest The colorful races are part of the

festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the

last day of Buddhist Lent in October

The narrow boats are made from massive

hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters

in length depending how many paddlers they

are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily

distinguishable by their use of bright colors and

mythical designs in the traditional local style

The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of

each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting

only the good ones to participate in their race

How to get there

Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is

connected by plane and by bus to the rest of

the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan

Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice

each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to

Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to

Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on

the service

Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan

(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8

hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)

The contestants of the races are classified into

three categories mdashlarge medium and small

boats Depending on their length each boat can

accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers

sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the

same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously

against the current to the frantic beating of a

drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern

The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying

their attempt to reach the finish line first and

the paddles churning up the river creates a

spectacular atmosphere

Son

g K

ran

in

Ch

ian

g M

ai

Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of

the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down

in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The

days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing

steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the

hot months of April and May The stifling mid-

day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out

unless necessary The buzz around town about

some festival called Song Kran is starting to

increase an underlying excitement rising

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

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To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

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The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

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  1. Button 3
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Page 5: Thaiguru issue10

Roast chili shallots garlic and

dried soybean paste until fragrant

Put in a mortar together with

lemon grass and crush

Heat up oil in a wok Add the mixture

of the mortar Fry until fragrant

Add tomatoes mushrooms tofu and water

Add seasoning salt soy sauce and sugar

Stir and let it simmer until tomatoes

are soft and well mixed together

The taste should be little bit spicy

sour and salty

Add more seasoning to taste

Put in bowl and garnish with

coriander and spring onion

Serve with rice and fresh steamed or raw

vegetables such as cabbage

cucumber or egg plants

Enjoy

With thanks to Thai Farm Cooking School

A Morning with an Elephant Vet

A 45 minute drive through the morning traffic

heading towards Mae Taeng located to the

north of Chiang Mai on our way to visit an

elephant park One of many elephant camps or

parks around Thailand catering for the gawking

tourists taking them on elephant rides and

doing tricks like playing football or painting

pictures However few travellers ever give a

second thought about the actual welfare of

these great creatures whose natural habitat

has been eroded away Our focus today was

going to be the work of a local veterinarian who

has spent the last 4 years with the Mae Taeng

Elephant Park and Clinic running their veterinary

facility

Upon our arrival I headed off to meet with the

parks general manager Khun Nu who informed

us that their resident vet would be arriving

shortly After a short wander around the park we

headed in the direction of the medical facilities

which comprised of what I would describe

as a kind of lsquowaiting roomrsquo area for the sick

elephants a large roofed structure able to house

several of the large animals Next to this was

one of two treatment areas again a large shed

construction with a very sturdy looking steel

frame set into the concrete floor to which the

elephants can be tethered while being seen by

the vet

Approaching the waiting area a slight figure

wearing a green surgical smock could be seen

with a mahout crouched under the head of a

young female elephant treating its neck the

first patient of the day The cow as females are

known was being treated for some sores around

the neck The vet was daubing the area with

disinfectant to help prevent infection working

quickly and efficiently in silence unaware of our

presence

The vet a 28 year old woman going by the

nickname of lsquoImrsquo (a short vowel sounding i as

in it) has been working at the elephant clinic

since she graduated 4 years previously from the

Faculty of Veterinary Medicine at Chiang Mai

University after completing a 6 year veterinary

degree Her love of these majestic creatures

was the focus of her dissertation Working daily

from 9 to 5 keeps her pretty busy with the park

employing her on a full-time basis

The second elephant to be seen by Im was

housed in an older treatment area nearby This

time the problem was a cut on the bottom of its

foot caused by walking on some glass

With the elephants mahout on-hand to assist

Im first had to check to see if there was any

remaining glass in the wound This done the next

stage was cleaning the injury which was done

using a giant foot bath

The elephantrsquos mahout guided the elephant into

position so that her front feet would be standing

in the disinfecting solution But rather than just

walking the animal through the solution the

elephant had to stand patiently with its feet in the

foot bath for a whole hour

During the treatment the elephantrsquos tether was lying unsecured on the floor but she stood calmly allowing

the vet to do her task even being in some discomfort It shows how trusting these animals can be with

humans The female elephant must have known that Im was there to help her

During an average day Im will treat 4 or 5 elephants usually foot injuries and other such problems as we

witnessed that morning cleaning and disinfecting wounds to prevent infection When she does have

a quieter day Imrsquos time is taken up with the general wellbeing of the elephants with nail trimming and

administrating drugs However her work isnrsquot limited to the park elephants

On occasion elephants outside the park require help so they can contact Im who will go out to the

surrounding area and provide a mobile clinic This service is provided free of charge courtesy of the park and

is a much appreciated service to the elephants who do not have a fixed home and whose mahouts cannot

otherwise afford treatment for their animals

With the sun approaching the meridian we said our farewells and headed back to town with the peace of

mind knowing that the magnificent elephants would be in the capable hands of Im the vet who cares and

treats them day to day

International Training Massage School

On a peaceful street a short walk from Chiang

Mairsquos old city is the International Training Massage

School An airy modern building in the traditional

Lanna style welcomes beginners seeking to learn

the basics of traditional Thai massage as well as

seasoned massage professionals looking to expand

their skills

Thai Guru is well used to being on the receiving

end of a skilful pair of hands of belonging to an

experienced masseuse so were pleased to be

invited to join the students at ITM to learn a bit more

about the training that is required to perform one of

the best things about living in Thailand

Chiang Mai is a mecca for those wishing to

spend a few days a few weeks or a few months

learning the art of Nuad Boran or lsquoancient

Thai Massagersquo Massage is serious business

in this part of the world and schools like ITM

tech everything from introduction courses

to advanced teacher training There are also

some quite specific classes on offer including

pregnancy massage hot stone healing massage

and infant massage

The ITM students turn up to begin their studies

early in the morning Shoes and sandals are left

outside the building next to a decorative koi

carp pond comfortable loose fitting pyjamas

are donned feet are washed and it is off to one

of the yoga studios to settle down and the first

blessing of the day Prayers are offered up by

students and teachers to Dr Shivago Komarpaj

Buddharsquos physician and the father of Thai

massage

Traditional Thai massage is practiced without

oils unguents or lotions and both giver and

receiver keep their clothes on The therapy

involves the compression rocking stretching

and manipulation of the joints and muscles

rather than the rubbing and stroking often

employed in other forms of massage

Once the prayers and blessings have been given up it is time for the students to get themselves ready for

the dayrsquos exertions by stretching To the relaxing sounds of flute music a teacher guides the trainees through

a set of yoga moves On the morning Thai Guru visited there were fifteen students being gently told to

assume the lsquosupermanrsquo and kick their legs into the air for the lsquoreverse bicyclersquo

We were informed that the combination of rhythmic stretches traditionally used by yogis and hermits (who

probably better than anyone know the importance of a good stretch) as well as warming up the studentsrsquo

bodies help the novices to understand better what they will be doing to the bodies of those they are about

to massage

A short break for coffee and bananas in a quiet courtyard watched over by a shrine to Dr Shivago and itrsquos

back to the classroom for a demonstration of the significance of some basic Nuad Boran moves The

students gather round books with detailed diagrams open on their laps to study how to perfect moves like

lsquothe flamingorsquo and lsquothe last tangorsquo among others

The founder of the school Mr Chongkol Setthakorn takes over the class for

the serious task of making sure the students have been paying attention and

arenrsquot in the process of giving each other hernias A quick prayer is said and

the real business of bending stretching and joint crunching begins

The students we met had been training for between three and four weeks

However courses at ITM and indeed at schools across Chiang Mai can be

tailored to fit the requirements of anyone who wishes to get involved in an

activity that gives enormous pleasure to both the giver and receiver - as Mr

Settakorn astutely explains ldquoThai Massage is like a thousand gentle waves

washing over the bodyrdquo

ITM ndash International Training Massage School

599 Chang Puak Road

Soi 4 Chor

Sriphum

Muang Chiang Mai

50200 THAILAND

Phone +66-5321-8632

Mobile +66-83-763-1002

Email itmitmthaimassagecom

wwwitmthaimassagecom

Krabi dream destination

After a couple of weeks traveling through

Thailand many are looking for the

perfect location to spend their last days

of their vancation Perfection doesnrsquot

exist but dream destination Krabi is gets

close

Located in the south west of Thailand

Krabi is also thanks to its airport an easy

destination to reach

You will notice the friendly atmosphere in this

area of Thailand right away

A couple of must sees like the Emerald Pond

and the Hot Waterfall are definitely worth your

visit Imagine relaxing in a the hot waterfall

under the exotic trees

And of course an island tour is a must when

you are in Krabi

By boat you can visit Por da Koh Hong Koh Kai

and the famous Pranang cave

Khao Yai National Park

Since establishing Thai Guru Magazine

we have been eager to take our

cameras to Khao Yai National Park

Having visited the area previously

I had already enjoyed the beauty

of Khao Yai and the abundance of

wildlife to be seen there and was keen

to share it with the rest of the team

Finally at the end of January we

jumped in the car for the long drive

south from

Chiang Mai

Three hours northeast of Bangkok Khao Yai

is the oldest and third largest national park

in Thailand Grasslands evergreen forests

monsoon forests and rain forests cover more

than 2000 square kilometres of this Unesco

World Heritage site

The park is teeming with wildlife Mammals

including elephant gibbon barking deer and

guar live within the parkrsquos borders The area

is also home to carnivores such as Asian wild

dogs and tigers as well as numerous reptiles and

amphibians including king cobras pythons and

monitor lizards Nearly 400 species of bird can

be found at Khao Yai Other attractions in this

trekkersrsquo paradise include several large waterfalls

The 20 metre Haew Suwat waterfall with is

deep pool was made famous by the film lsquoThe

Beachrsquo

Day 1The road leading to the gates of Khao Yai National Park is notable for its

numerous Italian influenced restaurants hotels and guesthouses A paradise

for pizza and pasta lovers there is even a small Italian-style village with ice-

cream parlours eateries and Italian themed guesthouses Almost immediately

after entering the park we were greeted by the sight of black giant squirrels

and pig tailed macaques clamouring in the canopy all around us Our first stop

was the visitor centre where we picked up a map of the park and other useful

information Outside were several sambar deer picking through restaurant

leftovers The rest of the day was spent exploring spots in which to set up

our cameras the following day We also made the first of several walks to the

observation tower adjacent to Nong Pak Chee reservoir As well as fabulous

views of the park the tower overlooks a saltlick where all manner of wildlife

gathers to suck up vital minerals and nutrients

Day 2Khao Yai is extremely popular with visitors and we could only

book lodging within its borders for the last two days of our trip

This meant an early start so we could get into the park in time to

shoot the sunrise We were the first visitors of the day and drove

to one of the places we had explored the day before We came

across what we thought was one of the many sambar or barking

deer that roam freely around the park We decided to take a

closer look only to find we had stumbled across an Asiatic black

bear half hidden in the morning mist Having spotted us after a

few minutes the handsome creature ambled off into the forest

The dawn had barely broken and our day was already a triumph

The rest of our time was spent following gibbons various varieties

deer and innumerable brightly coloured birds

Day 3Today we were fortunate to be allowed to move

ourselves and our equipment into government-

owned lodgings within the park Our first

mission was to set our cameras up at a place

where we had heard the heavy distinctive

rushing of wings and calls of hornbills (described

by some as sounding like the puffing of a steam

locomotive) the day before

We had expected a long wait but already had

our first shots of this impressive bird in the

can before breakfast We spent many hours

photographing hornbills macaque and other

wildlife

We even stumbled upon a pack of Asian wild

dogs gathered around the carcass of a recently

killed deer We thought our wildlife encounters

for the day were over as we sat down to enjoy

dinner only to be disturbed by scuffling sounds

behind our bungalow The noise was being

made by a pair of porcupines who were not in

the least afraid of us and actually attempted to

chase us away

Day 4The day was spent exploring the trails of Khao Yai and discovering among other wildlife a magnificent

crested serpent eagle As the afternoon drew to a close we decided to take one last trip to the watchtower

From here we witnessed the gathering of a large flock of hornbills We showed some of our footage to a

friendly ranger He was particularly interested in our bear shots We were thrilled to be told that it was very

rare to see a black bear even more so when we were informed that none of the rangers had seen one for

a number of months I decided to leave the tower to find a good place to photograph the sunset Within

a matter of minutes I heard someone scream ldquoBEARrdquo and was back up the stairs in seconds There below

us taking an evening stroll through the grass just metres from where we were perched was another much

younger black bear

Our trip could not have ended better Needless

to say Thai Guru thoroughly recommends a visit

to Khao Yai National Park As already mentioned

the park is popular with both local and foreign

tourists especially on holidays and weekends

We advise that you try to visit during the week

when the park is quieter and the chance of

seeing the amazing wildlife is greater

The park has two camping grounds as well as a

few bungalows that can be booked through the

Department of National Parks Wildlife and Plant

Conservation These need to be booked well

in advance However there are also plenty of

guesthouses and hotels are to be found along

the parkrsquos boundaries

Festival of LanternsThe enchanting atmosphere of Loi Krathong

The weather is cooling down and itrsquos

that time of year again when we all

take to the waterways of Thailand and

give praise to Khongkha the water

Goddess who took care of abundant

rainfall in the past raining season

Donrsquot miss this joyful celebration with

its enchanting atmosphere that brings

one and all in Thailand together

much like Songkran

Thailandrsquos lsquoFestival of Lightsrsquo is celebrated

throughout the kingdom on the night of the

November full moon The end of the rainy

season heralds the coolest months in the

countryrsquos calendar when the river waters are

also supposed to be at their highest

Superstition replaces religion on this night as

thousands flock to the banks of the swollen

rivers and canals to release khratongs floating

tributes to the river spirits and Mother Water ndash

Phra Mae Khongkha In recent years the festival

has been revived in the ancient temples of

Thailandrsquos former capital Sukhothai

Visitors assemble in the Sukhothai Historical

Park with their banana leaf khratongs decorated

with flowers incense sticks and candles to take

part in a ceremony that dates back centuries

Sometimes a coin is added as gift to the spirits

The pretty rafts are then released onto the lake

with a wish

It was once believed that Loi Khratong

was actually created in Sukhothai by Nang

Nopphamas a lady of the court and consort

of the king In fact the celebration was adapted

by Thai Buddhists from a Brahmanical festival

adapted to honour Buddha

The khratong is meant to be a light on the

darkness of the water for Buddha A personrsquos

sins and negative thoughts are also believed to

float away with the colourful little raft Try adding

a lock of your hair for extra luck

Nearly 20 of the Northern provinces will be

showing off a dazzling selection of floats in the

Royal Khratongs Procession as well as holding a

Miss Nopphamat beauty contest

A competition is held for the most beautifully

designed khratong as well as plenty of other

Sukhothai arts and cultural performances

The Light-and-Sound Presentation at Wat

Mahathat explains the history and origins of

Sukhothai and Loi Khratong through dance

music prayer combat displays light effects and

fireworks No Loi Khratong would be complete

without fireworks and thankfully the Thais are

not shy when it comes to blowing things up in

the sky

Tra Kuan pond is the place to be for the floating

of the Royal Khratongs followed by more

firmament-filling pyrotechnics Wat Chana

Songkram is the venue for the Mahachat

sermon Khon Marked Dance and a Thai

classical music performance

Thai Guru decided to travel from Chiang Mai

to Sukhotai for this yearrsquos festivities Although

the heavens decided to open for most of the

celebrations on the final day the rain could not

dampen the celebrations and the spectacle was

jaw dropping

The only thing that was missing due to the rain

was a sky filled with khom loi the sky lanterns

usually released into the firmament in their

hundreds

Although the festivities officially last for the best

part of a week it is the last three days that are

the busiest

Visitors can join in with a range of activities

including fruit carving or just wander around the

historic park listening to live traditional music

watching Thai martial arts or join the parade

of dancers musicians and beauty contestants

all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured

costumes

There are numerous places to stay for the

duration of the festival but it is advisable to

book ahead if you can because this is a very

popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north

from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai Temples

A visit to a temple in Thailand is

unavoidable They are everywhere

We at Thai Guru are well aware that

because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can

quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang

Mai With this in mind (and because

the city is overflowing with hundreds

of them) we have chosen a few of

our favourites we hope are slightly

alternative to the ones on the usual

tourist itinerary

Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to

the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its

latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of

the skills of the local silversmiths Like many

of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was

established several centuries ago The ubosoth

or ordination hall is an intricately designed

silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in

the sunlight

The area around Wua Lai has been the home to

silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past

couple of centuries who are famed throughout

the kingdom for creating detailed embossed

relief patterns on the objects they create

something that is immediately evident and

celebrated at Wat Srisuphan

The larger more traditionally decorated red blue

and gold prayer hall also contains impressive

silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos

life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft

museum

Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the

artisans at work and the temple has its own

silver-working school where apprentices are

trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive

Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved

in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-

robed residents of the temple improve their

linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also

available

Unfortunately women are not allowed to

enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this

is explained on a sign outside the wording of

which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in

the monastic boundary many precious things

incantations amulets and other holy objects

were buried over 500 years ago Entering

inside this area may deteriorated the place or

otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most

of the interior can be appreciated from the

doorway

Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous

for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged

Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai

Due to its being less well advertised than its

neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham

is often a more peaceful temple from which

to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang

Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist

Lent when the place was alive with worshippers

Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once

the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic

giants Following a visit from the Buddha the

giants decided to mend their ways stop eating

their neighbours and convert to Buddhism

For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and

offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the

templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally

constructed towards the end of the 7th century

Although the temple fell into disrepair over the

centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered

a chamber containing a number of Buddha

images The discovery led to the revitalisation of

this mountain top temple

The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are

guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured

sword-wielding warriors The courtyard

overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and

bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of

food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the

road leading to the temple

Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-

west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek

and easily accessible by car or taxi

Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai

was being established the name translates

as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably

because it was used to cast Buddha images for

its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The

entrance to the temple is through a small but

intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos

assembly hall is notable because it is one of the

only viharns of its type constructed solely from

teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a

superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock

astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference

to the king who once used the wooden hall as

his palace The gilded image features mythical

creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured

glass

The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite

from the busy road outside Wooden boxes

contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm

leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a

large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors

Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks

like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a

small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less

imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo

temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru

recommends a quick visit if you are passing

Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous

temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi

Luang

The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the

largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it

was damaged either by an earthquake in the

16th century or cannon fire from the guns

of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese

in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO

funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps

up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga

serpents and a group of five elephants (only the

one without a trunk or ears partially survived

whatever caused the structure to collapse the

others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi

was also once home to one of the most revered

religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald

Buddha Although the original now resides in

Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and

once again looks out over the city from a niche

on the east side of the structure

Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and

now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly

hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance

is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a

great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar

housed in a building at the base of the tree

Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although

one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few

alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed

Mae Hong Son

It is said that Mae Hong Son is the

most authentic and mountainous

province of Thailand For Thai Guru a

good reason to explore this province

side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai

province

Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of

Thailand The northern most part of this

province is at a distance of 924 km from

Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province

in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son

borders Myanmar On the south and east side it

borders Tak and Chiang Mai province

We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast

on the 108 road The scenery is woody and

mountainous so far so good And as we leave

the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek

for wildlife and beautiful landscapes

The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage

is that our average speed drops to less than

15 km hour No worries when you do trips

like these the clock stops and the only thing

on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning

landscapes that unfold before your eyes

The main road is well paved But as you might

understand we regularly go off road

This is the best way to come into contact with

locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo

While we are standing somewhere taking in the

beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a

falcon calling

A short walk through the forrest the sound

stops and we decide to sit down for some

water and well earned rest After a short while I

hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo

There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters

above us a white rumped falcon

Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras

it stays there and even when we start making

noises because we want to film it in flight it

takes itrsquos time

Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of

Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They

cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more

Of course they also have their own cattle And

walking through one of their small villages they

are very friendly and hospitable

It has to be said it is never smart to enter

a community or people with your camera

as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask

the people if they mind if you taking their

photograph or want to film their daily life

In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to

the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean

and offers a nice variety food on the terrace

with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city

where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists

Really nice to stroll down the walking street and

find food or a nice souvenir People are very

friendly as usual

From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae

Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an

average speed of 15 km hour

Halfway we jump out of the car into a river

Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to

keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn

but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around

without it

Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome

us and are gladly willing to allow us to make

photographs and film them

In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early

morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises

For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum

After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark

Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon

So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team

ChinatownBangkok

Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese

people in big cities around the world

Manhattan San Francisco Manilla

Paris and Boston have them and

more keep being officially recognised

in their role as historical and touristic

center every year Even places like

Dubai and Las Vegas have modern

day versions of this phenomenon

As soon as you pass under one of the famous

large red entrance arches you arrive in a

complete different world

A world that is paradise for photographers

A couple of the photographers in the Thai

Guru team decided to spend some time in the

Bangkok version of Chinatown

If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for

some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at

Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim

Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat

SLEEPY NANA dream destination

Relatively unknown and uncrowded

Nan has it all This gem of a province

hides an abundance of cultural and

natural attractions ancient temples

pristine forests rivers mountain

peaks but what strikes you most is

its omnipresent feel of an untroubled

authentic way of life

Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings

you this genuine feel in pictures and footage

For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of

Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant

nature and the nature of its people show

Thailand - as is often said before hordes of

tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas

it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan

managed to escape this proces but will it stay

that way Nan shares most of its border with

neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening

of the border and beyond towards China it is to

be expected that it will ultimately become an

important gateway for trade and tourism

Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town

and the countryside will enchant you and the natural

cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy

for at least a couple of days The town along the banks

of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base

to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night

life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous

temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue

influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The

great surroundings can best be explored by renting a

motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo

Much of the province is devoted to farming

Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still

being practised in areas of the province resulting

in a landscape where forests and fields alternate

Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside

of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature

peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich

natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the

province sees far fewer visitors than popular

neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You

can go white water rafting on the Wa River

along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim

National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay

overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes

Touring Nan

Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern

lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities

of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old

salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via

endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges

and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with

orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers

Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready

to be harvested broke through the green hills

giving a golden hue to the landscape

We encountered friendly villagers who worked

their way through the dry fields - meanwhile

singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to

supplement their meager incomes Despite their

hardship they showed us their heartwarming

hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes

with us

This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi

Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and

sparsely populated that we only passed two

cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos

difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand

nowadays

PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river

The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness

begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over

the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above

the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is

broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices

Then the carved image of a Naga becomes

visible above the water line followed by more

than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted

in red and gold colorshellip

During the year the remote provincial town

of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a

year for the annual spectacle of traditional

Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos

water artery The finals are held over two

days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos

banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite

team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in

Thailand yet relatively unknown

The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long

simple shelters where the massive dragon boats

are housed during the year Just once a year

they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos

most important sporting and social event The

event takes place right after the end of the

rainy season around early November when

water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at

their highest The colorful races are part of the

festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the

last day of Buddhist Lent in October

The narrow boats are made from massive

hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters

in length depending how many paddlers they

are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily

distinguishable by their use of bright colors and

mythical designs in the traditional local style

The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of

each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting

only the good ones to participate in their race

How to get there

Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is

connected by plane and by bus to the rest of

the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan

Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice

each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to

Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to

Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on

the service

Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan

(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8

hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)

The contestants of the races are classified into

three categories mdashlarge medium and small

boats Depending on their length each boat can

accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers

sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the

same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously

against the current to the frantic beating of a

drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern

The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying

their attempt to reach the finish line first and

the paddles churning up the river creates a

spectacular atmosphere

Son

g K

ran

in

Ch

ian

g M

ai

Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of

the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down

in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The

days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing

steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the

hot months of April and May The stifling mid-

day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out

unless necessary The buzz around town about

some festival called Song Kran is starting to

increase an underlying excitement rising

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
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  5. next
Page 6: Thaiguru issue10

A Morning with an Elephant Vet

A 45 minute drive through the morning traffic

heading towards Mae Taeng located to the

north of Chiang Mai on our way to visit an

elephant park One of many elephant camps or

parks around Thailand catering for the gawking

tourists taking them on elephant rides and

doing tricks like playing football or painting

pictures However few travellers ever give a

second thought about the actual welfare of

these great creatures whose natural habitat

has been eroded away Our focus today was

going to be the work of a local veterinarian who

has spent the last 4 years with the Mae Taeng

Elephant Park and Clinic running their veterinary

facility

Upon our arrival I headed off to meet with the

parks general manager Khun Nu who informed

us that their resident vet would be arriving

shortly After a short wander around the park we

headed in the direction of the medical facilities

which comprised of what I would describe

as a kind of lsquowaiting roomrsquo area for the sick

elephants a large roofed structure able to house

several of the large animals Next to this was

one of two treatment areas again a large shed

construction with a very sturdy looking steel

frame set into the concrete floor to which the

elephants can be tethered while being seen by

the vet

Approaching the waiting area a slight figure

wearing a green surgical smock could be seen

with a mahout crouched under the head of a

young female elephant treating its neck the

first patient of the day The cow as females are

known was being treated for some sores around

the neck The vet was daubing the area with

disinfectant to help prevent infection working

quickly and efficiently in silence unaware of our

presence

The vet a 28 year old woman going by the

nickname of lsquoImrsquo (a short vowel sounding i as

in it) has been working at the elephant clinic

since she graduated 4 years previously from the

Faculty of Veterinary Medicine at Chiang Mai

University after completing a 6 year veterinary

degree Her love of these majestic creatures

was the focus of her dissertation Working daily

from 9 to 5 keeps her pretty busy with the park

employing her on a full-time basis

The second elephant to be seen by Im was

housed in an older treatment area nearby This

time the problem was a cut on the bottom of its

foot caused by walking on some glass

With the elephants mahout on-hand to assist

Im first had to check to see if there was any

remaining glass in the wound This done the next

stage was cleaning the injury which was done

using a giant foot bath

The elephantrsquos mahout guided the elephant into

position so that her front feet would be standing

in the disinfecting solution But rather than just

walking the animal through the solution the

elephant had to stand patiently with its feet in the

foot bath for a whole hour

During the treatment the elephantrsquos tether was lying unsecured on the floor but she stood calmly allowing

the vet to do her task even being in some discomfort It shows how trusting these animals can be with

humans The female elephant must have known that Im was there to help her

During an average day Im will treat 4 or 5 elephants usually foot injuries and other such problems as we

witnessed that morning cleaning and disinfecting wounds to prevent infection When she does have

a quieter day Imrsquos time is taken up with the general wellbeing of the elephants with nail trimming and

administrating drugs However her work isnrsquot limited to the park elephants

On occasion elephants outside the park require help so they can contact Im who will go out to the

surrounding area and provide a mobile clinic This service is provided free of charge courtesy of the park and

is a much appreciated service to the elephants who do not have a fixed home and whose mahouts cannot

otherwise afford treatment for their animals

With the sun approaching the meridian we said our farewells and headed back to town with the peace of

mind knowing that the magnificent elephants would be in the capable hands of Im the vet who cares and

treats them day to day

International Training Massage School

On a peaceful street a short walk from Chiang

Mairsquos old city is the International Training Massage

School An airy modern building in the traditional

Lanna style welcomes beginners seeking to learn

the basics of traditional Thai massage as well as

seasoned massage professionals looking to expand

their skills

Thai Guru is well used to being on the receiving

end of a skilful pair of hands of belonging to an

experienced masseuse so were pleased to be

invited to join the students at ITM to learn a bit more

about the training that is required to perform one of

the best things about living in Thailand

Chiang Mai is a mecca for those wishing to

spend a few days a few weeks or a few months

learning the art of Nuad Boran or lsquoancient

Thai Massagersquo Massage is serious business

in this part of the world and schools like ITM

tech everything from introduction courses

to advanced teacher training There are also

some quite specific classes on offer including

pregnancy massage hot stone healing massage

and infant massage

The ITM students turn up to begin their studies

early in the morning Shoes and sandals are left

outside the building next to a decorative koi

carp pond comfortable loose fitting pyjamas

are donned feet are washed and it is off to one

of the yoga studios to settle down and the first

blessing of the day Prayers are offered up by

students and teachers to Dr Shivago Komarpaj

Buddharsquos physician and the father of Thai

massage

Traditional Thai massage is practiced without

oils unguents or lotions and both giver and

receiver keep their clothes on The therapy

involves the compression rocking stretching

and manipulation of the joints and muscles

rather than the rubbing and stroking often

employed in other forms of massage

Once the prayers and blessings have been given up it is time for the students to get themselves ready for

the dayrsquos exertions by stretching To the relaxing sounds of flute music a teacher guides the trainees through

a set of yoga moves On the morning Thai Guru visited there were fifteen students being gently told to

assume the lsquosupermanrsquo and kick their legs into the air for the lsquoreverse bicyclersquo

We were informed that the combination of rhythmic stretches traditionally used by yogis and hermits (who

probably better than anyone know the importance of a good stretch) as well as warming up the studentsrsquo

bodies help the novices to understand better what they will be doing to the bodies of those they are about

to massage

A short break for coffee and bananas in a quiet courtyard watched over by a shrine to Dr Shivago and itrsquos

back to the classroom for a demonstration of the significance of some basic Nuad Boran moves The

students gather round books with detailed diagrams open on their laps to study how to perfect moves like

lsquothe flamingorsquo and lsquothe last tangorsquo among others

The founder of the school Mr Chongkol Setthakorn takes over the class for

the serious task of making sure the students have been paying attention and

arenrsquot in the process of giving each other hernias A quick prayer is said and

the real business of bending stretching and joint crunching begins

The students we met had been training for between three and four weeks

However courses at ITM and indeed at schools across Chiang Mai can be

tailored to fit the requirements of anyone who wishes to get involved in an

activity that gives enormous pleasure to both the giver and receiver - as Mr

Settakorn astutely explains ldquoThai Massage is like a thousand gentle waves

washing over the bodyrdquo

ITM ndash International Training Massage School

599 Chang Puak Road

Soi 4 Chor

Sriphum

Muang Chiang Mai

50200 THAILAND

Phone +66-5321-8632

Mobile +66-83-763-1002

Email itmitmthaimassagecom

wwwitmthaimassagecom

Krabi dream destination

After a couple of weeks traveling through

Thailand many are looking for the

perfect location to spend their last days

of their vancation Perfection doesnrsquot

exist but dream destination Krabi is gets

close

Located in the south west of Thailand

Krabi is also thanks to its airport an easy

destination to reach

You will notice the friendly atmosphere in this

area of Thailand right away

A couple of must sees like the Emerald Pond

and the Hot Waterfall are definitely worth your

visit Imagine relaxing in a the hot waterfall

under the exotic trees

And of course an island tour is a must when

you are in Krabi

By boat you can visit Por da Koh Hong Koh Kai

and the famous Pranang cave

Khao Yai National Park

Since establishing Thai Guru Magazine

we have been eager to take our

cameras to Khao Yai National Park

Having visited the area previously

I had already enjoyed the beauty

of Khao Yai and the abundance of

wildlife to be seen there and was keen

to share it with the rest of the team

Finally at the end of January we

jumped in the car for the long drive

south from

Chiang Mai

Three hours northeast of Bangkok Khao Yai

is the oldest and third largest national park

in Thailand Grasslands evergreen forests

monsoon forests and rain forests cover more

than 2000 square kilometres of this Unesco

World Heritage site

The park is teeming with wildlife Mammals

including elephant gibbon barking deer and

guar live within the parkrsquos borders The area

is also home to carnivores such as Asian wild

dogs and tigers as well as numerous reptiles and

amphibians including king cobras pythons and

monitor lizards Nearly 400 species of bird can

be found at Khao Yai Other attractions in this

trekkersrsquo paradise include several large waterfalls

The 20 metre Haew Suwat waterfall with is

deep pool was made famous by the film lsquoThe

Beachrsquo

Day 1The road leading to the gates of Khao Yai National Park is notable for its

numerous Italian influenced restaurants hotels and guesthouses A paradise

for pizza and pasta lovers there is even a small Italian-style village with ice-

cream parlours eateries and Italian themed guesthouses Almost immediately

after entering the park we were greeted by the sight of black giant squirrels

and pig tailed macaques clamouring in the canopy all around us Our first stop

was the visitor centre where we picked up a map of the park and other useful

information Outside were several sambar deer picking through restaurant

leftovers The rest of the day was spent exploring spots in which to set up

our cameras the following day We also made the first of several walks to the

observation tower adjacent to Nong Pak Chee reservoir As well as fabulous

views of the park the tower overlooks a saltlick where all manner of wildlife

gathers to suck up vital minerals and nutrients

Day 2Khao Yai is extremely popular with visitors and we could only

book lodging within its borders for the last two days of our trip

This meant an early start so we could get into the park in time to

shoot the sunrise We were the first visitors of the day and drove

to one of the places we had explored the day before We came

across what we thought was one of the many sambar or barking

deer that roam freely around the park We decided to take a

closer look only to find we had stumbled across an Asiatic black

bear half hidden in the morning mist Having spotted us after a

few minutes the handsome creature ambled off into the forest

The dawn had barely broken and our day was already a triumph

The rest of our time was spent following gibbons various varieties

deer and innumerable brightly coloured birds

Day 3Today we were fortunate to be allowed to move

ourselves and our equipment into government-

owned lodgings within the park Our first

mission was to set our cameras up at a place

where we had heard the heavy distinctive

rushing of wings and calls of hornbills (described

by some as sounding like the puffing of a steam

locomotive) the day before

We had expected a long wait but already had

our first shots of this impressive bird in the

can before breakfast We spent many hours

photographing hornbills macaque and other

wildlife

We even stumbled upon a pack of Asian wild

dogs gathered around the carcass of a recently

killed deer We thought our wildlife encounters

for the day were over as we sat down to enjoy

dinner only to be disturbed by scuffling sounds

behind our bungalow The noise was being

made by a pair of porcupines who were not in

the least afraid of us and actually attempted to

chase us away

Day 4The day was spent exploring the trails of Khao Yai and discovering among other wildlife a magnificent

crested serpent eagle As the afternoon drew to a close we decided to take one last trip to the watchtower

From here we witnessed the gathering of a large flock of hornbills We showed some of our footage to a

friendly ranger He was particularly interested in our bear shots We were thrilled to be told that it was very

rare to see a black bear even more so when we were informed that none of the rangers had seen one for

a number of months I decided to leave the tower to find a good place to photograph the sunset Within

a matter of minutes I heard someone scream ldquoBEARrdquo and was back up the stairs in seconds There below

us taking an evening stroll through the grass just metres from where we were perched was another much

younger black bear

Our trip could not have ended better Needless

to say Thai Guru thoroughly recommends a visit

to Khao Yai National Park As already mentioned

the park is popular with both local and foreign

tourists especially on holidays and weekends

We advise that you try to visit during the week

when the park is quieter and the chance of

seeing the amazing wildlife is greater

The park has two camping grounds as well as a

few bungalows that can be booked through the

Department of National Parks Wildlife and Plant

Conservation These need to be booked well

in advance However there are also plenty of

guesthouses and hotels are to be found along

the parkrsquos boundaries

Festival of LanternsThe enchanting atmosphere of Loi Krathong

The weather is cooling down and itrsquos

that time of year again when we all

take to the waterways of Thailand and

give praise to Khongkha the water

Goddess who took care of abundant

rainfall in the past raining season

Donrsquot miss this joyful celebration with

its enchanting atmosphere that brings

one and all in Thailand together

much like Songkran

Thailandrsquos lsquoFestival of Lightsrsquo is celebrated

throughout the kingdom on the night of the

November full moon The end of the rainy

season heralds the coolest months in the

countryrsquos calendar when the river waters are

also supposed to be at their highest

Superstition replaces religion on this night as

thousands flock to the banks of the swollen

rivers and canals to release khratongs floating

tributes to the river spirits and Mother Water ndash

Phra Mae Khongkha In recent years the festival

has been revived in the ancient temples of

Thailandrsquos former capital Sukhothai

Visitors assemble in the Sukhothai Historical

Park with their banana leaf khratongs decorated

with flowers incense sticks and candles to take

part in a ceremony that dates back centuries

Sometimes a coin is added as gift to the spirits

The pretty rafts are then released onto the lake

with a wish

It was once believed that Loi Khratong

was actually created in Sukhothai by Nang

Nopphamas a lady of the court and consort

of the king In fact the celebration was adapted

by Thai Buddhists from a Brahmanical festival

adapted to honour Buddha

The khratong is meant to be a light on the

darkness of the water for Buddha A personrsquos

sins and negative thoughts are also believed to

float away with the colourful little raft Try adding

a lock of your hair for extra luck

Nearly 20 of the Northern provinces will be

showing off a dazzling selection of floats in the

Royal Khratongs Procession as well as holding a

Miss Nopphamat beauty contest

A competition is held for the most beautifully

designed khratong as well as plenty of other

Sukhothai arts and cultural performances

The Light-and-Sound Presentation at Wat

Mahathat explains the history and origins of

Sukhothai and Loi Khratong through dance

music prayer combat displays light effects and

fireworks No Loi Khratong would be complete

without fireworks and thankfully the Thais are

not shy when it comes to blowing things up in

the sky

Tra Kuan pond is the place to be for the floating

of the Royal Khratongs followed by more

firmament-filling pyrotechnics Wat Chana

Songkram is the venue for the Mahachat

sermon Khon Marked Dance and a Thai

classical music performance

Thai Guru decided to travel from Chiang Mai

to Sukhotai for this yearrsquos festivities Although

the heavens decided to open for most of the

celebrations on the final day the rain could not

dampen the celebrations and the spectacle was

jaw dropping

The only thing that was missing due to the rain

was a sky filled with khom loi the sky lanterns

usually released into the firmament in their

hundreds

Although the festivities officially last for the best

part of a week it is the last three days that are

the busiest

Visitors can join in with a range of activities

including fruit carving or just wander around the

historic park listening to live traditional music

watching Thai martial arts or join the parade

of dancers musicians and beauty contestants

all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured

costumes

There are numerous places to stay for the

duration of the festival but it is advisable to

book ahead if you can because this is a very

popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north

from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai Temples

A visit to a temple in Thailand is

unavoidable They are everywhere

We at Thai Guru are well aware that

because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can

quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang

Mai With this in mind (and because

the city is overflowing with hundreds

of them) we have chosen a few of

our favourites we hope are slightly

alternative to the ones on the usual

tourist itinerary

Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to

the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its

latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of

the skills of the local silversmiths Like many

of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was

established several centuries ago The ubosoth

or ordination hall is an intricately designed

silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in

the sunlight

The area around Wua Lai has been the home to

silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past

couple of centuries who are famed throughout

the kingdom for creating detailed embossed

relief patterns on the objects they create

something that is immediately evident and

celebrated at Wat Srisuphan

The larger more traditionally decorated red blue

and gold prayer hall also contains impressive

silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos

life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft

museum

Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the

artisans at work and the temple has its own

silver-working school where apprentices are

trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive

Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved

in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-

robed residents of the temple improve their

linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also

available

Unfortunately women are not allowed to

enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this

is explained on a sign outside the wording of

which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in

the monastic boundary many precious things

incantations amulets and other holy objects

were buried over 500 years ago Entering

inside this area may deteriorated the place or

otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most

of the interior can be appreciated from the

doorway

Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous

for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged

Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai

Due to its being less well advertised than its

neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham

is often a more peaceful temple from which

to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang

Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist

Lent when the place was alive with worshippers

Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once

the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic

giants Following a visit from the Buddha the

giants decided to mend their ways stop eating

their neighbours and convert to Buddhism

For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and

offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the

templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally

constructed towards the end of the 7th century

Although the temple fell into disrepair over the

centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered

a chamber containing a number of Buddha

images The discovery led to the revitalisation of

this mountain top temple

The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are

guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured

sword-wielding warriors The courtyard

overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and

bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of

food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the

road leading to the temple

Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-

west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek

and easily accessible by car or taxi

Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai

was being established the name translates

as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably

because it was used to cast Buddha images for

its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The

entrance to the temple is through a small but

intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos

assembly hall is notable because it is one of the

only viharns of its type constructed solely from

teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a

superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock

astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference

to the king who once used the wooden hall as

his palace The gilded image features mythical

creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured

glass

The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite

from the busy road outside Wooden boxes

contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm

leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a

large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors

Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks

like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a

small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less

imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo

temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru

recommends a quick visit if you are passing

Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous

temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi

Luang

The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the

largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it

was damaged either by an earthquake in the

16th century or cannon fire from the guns

of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese

in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO

funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps

up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga

serpents and a group of five elephants (only the

one without a trunk or ears partially survived

whatever caused the structure to collapse the

others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi

was also once home to one of the most revered

religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald

Buddha Although the original now resides in

Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and

once again looks out over the city from a niche

on the east side of the structure

Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and

now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly

hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance

is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a

great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar

housed in a building at the base of the tree

Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although

one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few

alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed

Mae Hong Son

It is said that Mae Hong Son is the

most authentic and mountainous

province of Thailand For Thai Guru a

good reason to explore this province

side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai

province

Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of

Thailand The northern most part of this

province is at a distance of 924 km from

Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province

in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son

borders Myanmar On the south and east side it

borders Tak and Chiang Mai province

We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast

on the 108 road The scenery is woody and

mountainous so far so good And as we leave

the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek

for wildlife and beautiful landscapes

The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage

is that our average speed drops to less than

15 km hour No worries when you do trips

like these the clock stops and the only thing

on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning

landscapes that unfold before your eyes

The main road is well paved But as you might

understand we regularly go off road

This is the best way to come into contact with

locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo

While we are standing somewhere taking in the

beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a

falcon calling

A short walk through the forrest the sound

stops and we decide to sit down for some

water and well earned rest After a short while I

hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo

There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters

above us a white rumped falcon

Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras

it stays there and even when we start making

noises because we want to film it in flight it

takes itrsquos time

Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of

Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They

cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more

Of course they also have their own cattle And

walking through one of their small villages they

are very friendly and hospitable

It has to be said it is never smart to enter

a community or people with your camera

as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask

the people if they mind if you taking their

photograph or want to film their daily life

In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to

the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean

and offers a nice variety food on the terrace

with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city

where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists

Really nice to stroll down the walking street and

find food or a nice souvenir People are very

friendly as usual

From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae

Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an

average speed of 15 km hour

Halfway we jump out of the car into a river

Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to

keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn

but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around

without it

Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome

us and are gladly willing to allow us to make

photographs and film them

In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early

morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises

For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum

After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark

Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon

So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team

ChinatownBangkok

Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese

people in big cities around the world

Manhattan San Francisco Manilla

Paris and Boston have them and

more keep being officially recognised

in their role as historical and touristic

center every year Even places like

Dubai and Las Vegas have modern

day versions of this phenomenon

As soon as you pass under one of the famous

large red entrance arches you arrive in a

complete different world

A world that is paradise for photographers

A couple of the photographers in the Thai

Guru team decided to spend some time in the

Bangkok version of Chinatown

If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for

some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at

Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim

Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat

SLEEPY NANA dream destination

Relatively unknown and uncrowded

Nan has it all This gem of a province

hides an abundance of cultural and

natural attractions ancient temples

pristine forests rivers mountain

peaks but what strikes you most is

its omnipresent feel of an untroubled

authentic way of life

Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings

you this genuine feel in pictures and footage

For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of

Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant

nature and the nature of its people show

Thailand - as is often said before hordes of

tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas

it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan

managed to escape this proces but will it stay

that way Nan shares most of its border with

neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening

of the border and beyond towards China it is to

be expected that it will ultimately become an

important gateway for trade and tourism

Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town

and the countryside will enchant you and the natural

cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy

for at least a couple of days The town along the banks

of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base

to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night

life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous

temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue

influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The

great surroundings can best be explored by renting a

motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo

Much of the province is devoted to farming

Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still

being practised in areas of the province resulting

in a landscape where forests and fields alternate

Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside

of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature

peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich

natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the

province sees far fewer visitors than popular

neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You

can go white water rafting on the Wa River

along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim

National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay

overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes

Touring Nan

Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern

lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities

of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old

salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via

endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges

and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with

orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers

Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready

to be harvested broke through the green hills

giving a golden hue to the landscape

We encountered friendly villagers who worked

their way through the dry fields - meanwhile

singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to

supplement their meager incomes Despite their

hardship they showed us their heartwarming

hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes

with us

This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi

Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and

sparsely populated that we only passed two

cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos

difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand

nowadays

PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river

The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness

begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over

the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above

the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is

broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices

Then the carved image of a Naga becomes

visible above the water line followed by more

than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted

in red and gold colorshellip

During the year the remote provincial town

of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a

year for the annual spectacle of traditional

Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos

water artery The finals are held over two

days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos

banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite

team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in

Thailand yet relatively unknown

The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long

simple shelters where the massive dragon boats

are housed during the year Just once a year

they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos

most important sporting and social event The

event takes place right after the end of the

rainy season around early November when

water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at

their highest The colorful races are part of the

festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the

last day of Buddhist Lent in October

The narrow boats are made from massive

hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters

in length depending how many paddlers they

are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily

distinguishable by their use of bright colors and

mythical designs in the traditional local style

The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of

each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting

only the good ones to participate in their race

How to get there

Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is

connected by plane and by bus to the rest of

the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan

Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice

each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to

Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to

Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on

the service

Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan

(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8

hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)

The contestants of the races are classified into

three categories mdashlarge medium and small

boats Depending on their length each boat can

accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers

sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the

same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously

against the current to the frantic beating of a

drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern

The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying

their attempt to reach the finish line first and

the paddles churning up the river creates a

spectacular atmosphere

Son

g K

ran

in

Ch

ian

g M

ai

Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of

the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down

in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The

days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing

steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the

hot months of April and May The stifling mid-

day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out

unless necessary The buzz around town about

some festival called Song Kran is starting to

increase an underlying excitement rising

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
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Page 7: Thaiguru issue10

A 45 minute drive through the morning traffic

heading towards Mae Taeng located to the

north of Chiang Mai on our way to visit an

elephant park One of many elephant camps or

parks around Thailand catering for the gawking

tourists taking them on elephant rides and

doing tricks like playing football or painting

pictures However few travellers ever give a

second thought about the actual welfare of

these great creatures whose natural habitat

has been eroded away Our focus today was

going to be the work of a local veterinarian who

has spent the last 4 years with the Mae Taeng

Elephant Park and Clinic running their veterinary

facility

Upon our arrival I headed off to meet with the

parks general manager Khun Nu who informed

us that their resident vet would be arriving

shortly After a short wander around the park we

headed in the direction of the medical facilities

which comprised of what I would describe

as a kind of lsquowaiting roomrsquo area for the sick

elephants a large roofed structure able to house

several of the large animals Next to this was

one of two treatment areas again a large shed

construction with a very sturdy looking steel

frame set into the concrete floor to which the

elephants can be tethered while being seen by

the vet

Approaching the waiting area a slight figure

wearing a green surgical smock could be seen

with a mahout crouched under the head of a

young female elephant treating its neck the

first patient of the day The cow as females are

known was being treated for some sores around

the neck The vet was daubing the area with

disinfectant to help prevent infection working

quickly and efficiently in silence unaware of our

presence

The vet a 28 year old woman going by the

nickname of lsquoImrsquo (a short vowel sounding i as

in it) has been working at the elephant clinic

since she graduated 4 years previously from the

Faculty of Veterinary Medicine at Chiang Mai

University after completing a 6 year veterinary

degree Her love of these majestic creatures

was the focus of her dissertation Working daily

from 9 to 5 keeps her pretty busy with the park

employing her on a full-time basis

The second elephant to be seen by Im was

housed in an older treatment area nearby This

time the problem was a cut on the bottom of its

foot caused by walking on some glass

With the elephants mahout on-hand to assist

Im first had to check to see if there was any

remaining glass in the wound This done the next

stage was cleaning the injury which was done

using a giant foot bath

The elephantrsquos mahout guided the elephant into

position so that her front feet would be standing

in the disinfecting solution But rather than just

walking the animal through the solution the

elephant had to stand patiently with its feet in the

foot bath for a whole hour

During the treatment the elephantrsquos tether was lying unsecured on the floor but she stood calmly allowing

the vet to do her task even being in some discomfort It shows how trusting these animals can be with

humans The female elephant must have known that Im was there to help her

During an average day Im will treat 4 or 5 elephants usually foot injuries and other such problems as we

witnessed that morning cleaning and disinfecting wounds to prevent infection When she does have

a quieter day Imrsquos time is taken up with the general wellbeing of the elephants with nail trimming and

administrating drugs However her work isnrsquot limited to the park elephants

On occasion elephants outside the park require help so they can contact Im who will go out to the

surrounding area and provide a mobile clinic This service is provided free of charge courtesy of the park and

is a much appreciated service to the elephants who do not have a fixed home and whose mahouts cannot

otherwise afford treatment for their animals

With the sun approaching the meridian we said our farewells and headed back to town with the peace of

mind knowing that the magnificent elephants would be in the capable hands of Im the vet who cares and

treats them day to day

International Training Massage School

On a peaceful street a short walk from Chiang

Mairsquos old city is the International Training Massage

School An airy modern building in the traditional

Lanna style welcomes beginners seeking to learn

the basics of traditional Thai massage as well as

seasoned massage professionals looking to expand

their skills

Thai Guru is well used to being on the receiving

end of a skilful pair of hands of belonging to an

experienced masseuse so were pleased to be

invited to join the students at ITM to learn a bit more

about the training that is required to perform one of

the best things about living in Thailand

Chiang Mai is a mecca for those wishing to

spend a few days a few weeks or a few months

learning the art of Nuad Boran or lsquoancient

Thai Massagersquo Massage is serious business

in this part of the world and schools like ITM

tech everything from introduction courses

to advanced teacher training There are also

some quite specific classes on offer including

pregnancy massage hot stone healing massage

and infant massage

The ITM students turn up to begin their studies

early in the morning Shoes and sandals are left

outside the building next to a decorative koi

carp pond comfortable loose fitting pyjamas

are donned feet are washed and it is off to one

of the yoga studios to settle down and the first

blessing of the day Prayers are offered up by

students and teachers to Dr Shivago Komarpaj

Buddharsquos physician and the father of Thai

massage

Traditional Thai massage is practiced without

oils unguents or lotions and both giver and

receiver keep their clothes on The therapy

involves the compression rocking stretching

and manipulation of the joints and muscles

rather than the rubbing and stroking often

employed in other forms of massage

Once the prayers and blessings have been given up it is time for the students to get themselves ready for

the dayrsquos exertions by stretching To the relaxing sounds of flute music a teacher guides the trainees through

a set of yoga moves On the morning Thai Guru visited there were fifteen students being gently told to

assume the lsquosupermanrsquo and kick their legs into the air for the lsquoreverse bicyclersquo

We were informed that the combination of rhythmic stretches traditionally used by yogis and hermits (who

probably better than anyone know the importance of a good stretch) as well as warming up the studentsrsquo

bodies help the novices to understand better what they will be doing to the bodies of those they are about

to massage

A short break for coffee and bananas in a quiet courtyard watched over by a shrine to Dr Shivago and itrsquos

back to the classroom for a demonstration of the significance of some basic Nuad Boran moves The

students gather round books with detailed diagrams open on their laps to study how to perfect moves like

lsquothe flamingorsquo and lsquothe last tangorsquo among others

The founder of the school Mr Chongkol Setthakorn takes over the class for

the serious task of making sure the students have been paying attention and

arenrsquot in the process of giving each other hernias A quick prayer is said and

the real business of bending stretching and joint crunching begins

The students we met had been training for between three and four weeks

However courses at ITM and indeed at schools across Chiang Mai can be

tailored to fit the requirements of anyone who wishes to get involved in an

activity that gives enormous pleasure to both the giver and receiver - as Mr

Settakorn astutely explains ldquoThai Massage is like a thousand gentle waves

washing over the bodyrdquo

ITM ndash International Training Massage School

599 Chang Puak Road

Soi 4 Chor

Sriphum

Muang Chiang Mai

50200 THAILAND

Phone +66-5321-8632

Mobile +66-83-763-1002

Email itmitmthaimassagecom

wwwitmthaimassagecom

Krabi dream destination

After a couple of weeks traveling through

Thailand many are looking for the

perfect location to spend their last days

of their vancation Perfection doesnrsquot

exist but dream destination Krabi is gets

close

Located in the south west of Thailand

Krabi is also thanks to its airport an easy

destination to reach

You will notice the friendly atmosphere in this

area of Thailand right away

A couple of must sees like the Emerald Pond

and the Hot Waterfall are definitely worth your

visit Imagine relaxing in a the hot waterfall

under the exotic trees

And of course an island tour is a must when

you are in Krabi

By boat you can visit Por da Koh Hong Koh Kai

and the famous Pranang cave

Khao Yai National Park

Since establishing Thai Guru Magazine

we have been eager to take our

cameras to Khao Yai National Park

Having visited the area previously

I had already enjoyed the beauty

of Khao Yai and the abundance of

wildlife to be seen there and was keen

to share it with the rest of the team

Finally at the end of January we

jumped in the car for the long drive

south from

Chiang Mai

Three hours northeast of Bangkok Khao Yai

is the oldest and third largest national park

in Thailand Grasslands evergreen forests

monsoon forests and rain forests cover more

than 2000 square kilometres of this Unesco

World Heritage site

The park is teeming with wildlife Mammals

including elephant gibbon barking deer and

guar live within the parkrsquos borders The area

is also home to carnivores such as Asian wild

dogs and tigers as well as numerous reptiles and

amphibians including king cobras pythons and

monitor lizards Nearly 400 species of bird can

be found at Khao Yai Other attractions in this

trekkersrsquo paradise include several large waterfalls

The 20 metre Haew Suwat waterfall with is

deep pool was made famous by the film lsquoThe

Beachrsquo

Day 1The road leading to the gates of Khao Yai National Park is notable for its

numerous Italian influenced restaurants hotels and guesthouses A paradise

for pizza and pasta lovers there is even a small Italian-style village with ice-

cream parlours eateries and Italian themed guesthouses Almost immediately

after entering the park we were greeted by the sight of black giant squirrels

and pig tailed macaques clamouring in the canopy all around us Our first stop

was the visitor centre where we picked up a map of the park and other useful

information Outside were several sambar deer picking through restaurant

leftovers The rest of the day was spent exploring spots in which to set up

our cameras the following day We also made the first of several walks to the

observation tower adjacent to Nong Pak Chee reservoir As well as fabulous

views of the park the tower overlooks a saltlick where all manner of wildlife

gathers to suck up vital minerals and nutrients

Day 2Khao Yai is extremely popular with visitors and we could only

book lodging within its borders for the last two days of our trip

This meant an early start so we could get into the park in time to

shoot the sunrise We were the first visitors of the day and drove

to one of the places we had explored the day before We came

across what we thought was one of the many sambar or barking

deer that roam freely around the park We decided to take a

closer look only to find we had stumbled across an Asiatic black

bear half hidden in the morning mist Having spotted us after a

few minutes the handsome creature ambled off into the forest

The dawn had barely broken and our day was already a triumph

The rest of our time was spent following gibbons various varieties

deer and innumerable brightly coloured birds

Day 3Today we were fortunate to be allowed to move

ourselves and our equipment into government-

owned lodgings within the park Our first

mission was to set our cameras up at a place

where we had heard the heavy distinctive

rushing of wings and calls of hornbills (described

by some as sounding like the puffing of a steam

locomotive) the day before

We had expected a long wait but already had

our first shots of this impressive bird in the

can before breakfast We spent many hours

photographing hornbills macaque and other

wildlife

We even stumbled upon a pack of Asian wild

dogs gathered around the carcass of a recently

killed deer We thought our wildlife encounters

for the day were over as we sat down to enjoy

dinner only to be disturbed by scuffling sounds

behind our bungalow The noise was being

made by a pair of porcupines who were not in

the least afraid of us and actually attempted to

chase us away

Day 4The day was spent exploring the trails of Khao Yai and discovering among other wildlife a magnificent

crested serpent eagle As the afternoon drew to a close we decided to take one last trip to the watchtower

From here we witnessed the gathering of a large flock of hornbills We showed some of our footage to a

friendly ranger He was particularly interested in our bear shots We were thrilled to be told that it was very

rare to see a black bear even more so when we were informed that none of the rangers had seen one for

a number of months I decided to leave the tower to find a good place to photograph the sunset Within

a matter of minutes I heard someone scream ldquoBEARrdquo and was back up the stairs in seconds There below

us taking an evening stroll through the grass just metres from where we were perched was another much

younger black bear

Our trip could not have ended better Needless

to say Thai Guru thoroughly recommends a visit

to Khao Yai National Park As already mentioned

the park is popular with both local and foreign

tourists especially on holidays and weekends

We advise that you try to visit during the week

when the park is quieter and the chance of

seeing the amazing wildlife is greater

The park has two camping grounds as well as a

few bungalows that can be booked through the

Department of National Parks Wildlife and Plant

Conservation These need to be booked well

in advance However there are also plenty of

guesthouses and hotels are to be found along

the parkrsquos boundaries

Festival of LanternsThe enchanting atmosphere of Loi Krathong

The weather is cooling down and itrsquos

that time of year again when we all

take to the waterways of Thailand and

give praise to Khongkha the water

Goddess who took care of abundant

rainfall in the past raining season

Donrsquot miss this joyful celebration with

its enchanting atmosphere that brings

one and all in Thailand together

much like Songkran

Thailandrsquos lsquoFestival of Lightsrsquo is celebrated

throughout the kingdom on the night of the

November full moon The end of the rainy

season heralds the coolest months in the

countryrsquos calendar when the river waters are

also supposed to be at their highest

Superstition replaces religion on this night as

thousands flock to the banks of the swollen

rivers and canals to release khratongs floating

tributes to the river spirits and Mother Water ndash

Phra Mae Khongkha In recent years the festival

has been revived in the ancient temples of

Thailandrsquos former capital Sukhothai

Visitors assemble in the Sukhothai Historical

Park with their banana leaf khratongs decorated

with flowers incense sticks and candles to take

part in a ceremony that dates back centuries

Sometimes a coin is added as gift to the spirits

The pretty rafts are then released onto the lake

with a wish

It was once believed that Loi Khratong

was actually created in Sukhothai by Nang

Nopphamas a lady of the court and consort

of the king In fact the celebration was adapted

by Thai Buddhists from a Brahmanical festival

adapted to honour Buddha

The khratong is meant to be a light on the

darkness of the water for Buddha A personrsquos

sins and negative thoughts are also believed to

float away with the colourful little raft Try adding

a lock of your hair for extra luck

Nearly 20 of the Northern provinces will be

showing off a dazzling selection of floats in the

Royal Khratongs Procession as well as holding a

Miss Nopphamat beauty contest

A competition is held for the most beautifully

designed khratong as well as plenty of other

Sukhothai arts and cultural performances

The Light-and-Sound Presentation at Wat

Mahathat explains the history and origins of

Sukhothai and Loi Khratong through dance

music prayer combat displays light effects and

fireworks No Loi Khratong would be complete

without fireworks and thankfully the Thais are

not shy when it comes to blowing things up in

the sky

Tra Kuan pond is the place to be for the floating

of the Royal Khratongs followed by more

firmament-filling pyrotechnics Wat Chana

Songkram is the venue for the Mahachat

sermon Khon Marked Dance and a Thai

classical music performance

Thai Guru decided to travel from Chiang Mai

to Sukhotai for this yearrsquos festivities Although

the heavens decided to open for most of the

celebrations on the final day the rain could not

dampen the celebrations and the spectacle was

jaw dropping

The only thing that was missing due to the rain

was a sky filled with khom loi the sky lanterns

usually released into the firmament in their

hundreds

Although the festivities officially last for the best

part of a week it is the last three days that are

the busiest

Visitors can join in with a range of activities

including fruit carving or just wander around the

historic park listening to live traditional music

watching Thai martial arts or join the parade

of dancers musicians and beauty contestants

all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured

costumes

There are numerous places to stay for the

duration of the festival but it is advisable to

book ahead if you can because this is a very

popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north

from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai Temples

A visit to a temple in Thailand is

unavoidable They are everywhere

We at Thai Guru are well aware that

because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can

quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang

Mai With this in mind (and because

the city is overflowing with hundreds

of them) we have chosen a few of

our favourites we hope are slightly

alternative to the ones on the usual

tourist itinerary

Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to

the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its

latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of

the skills of the local silversmiths Like many

of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was

established several centuries ago The ubosoth

or ordination hall is an intricately designed

silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in

the sunlight

The area around Wua Lai has been the home to

silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past

couple of centuries who are famed throughout

the kingdom for creating detailed embossed

relief patterns on the objects they create

something that is immediately evident and

celebrated at Wat Srisuphan

The larger more traditionally decorated red blue

and gold prayer hall also contains impressive

silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos

life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft

museum

Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the

artisans at work and the temple has its own

silver-working school where apprentices are

trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive

Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved

in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-

robed residents of the temple improve their

linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also

available

Unfortunately women are not allowed to

enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this

is explained on a sign outside the wording of

which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in

the monastic boundary many precious things

incantations amulets and other holy objects

were buried over 500 years ago Entering

inside this area may deteriorated the place or

otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most

of the interior can be appreciated from the

doorway

Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous

for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged

Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai

Due to its being less well advertised than its

neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham

is often a more peaceful temple from which

to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang

Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist

Lent when the place was alive with worshippers

Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once

the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic

giants Following a visit from the Buddha the

giants decided to mend their ways stop eating

their neighbours and convert to Buddhism

For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and

offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the

templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally

constructed towards the end of the 7th century

Although the temple fell into disrepair over the

centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered

a chamber containing a number of Buddha

images The discovery led to the revitalisation of

this mountain top temple

The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are

guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured

sword-wielding warriors The courtyard

overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and

bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of

food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the

road leading to the temple

Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-

west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek

and easily accessible by car or taxi

Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai

was being established the name translates

as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably

because it was used to cast Buddha images for

its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The

entrance to the temple is through a small but

intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos

assembly hall is notable because it is one of the

only viharns of its type constructed solely from

teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a

superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock

astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference

to the king who once used the wooden hall as

his palace The gilded image features mythical

creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured

glass

The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite

from the busy road outside Wooden boxes

contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm

leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a

large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors

Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks

like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a

small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less

imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo

temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru

recommends a quick visit if you are passing

Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous

temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi

Luang

The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the

largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it

was damaged either by an earthquake in the

16th century or cannon fire from the guns

of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese

in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO

funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps

up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga

serpents and a group of five elephants (only the

one without a trunk or ears partially survived

whatever caused the structure to collapse the

others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi

was also once home to one of the most revered

religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald

Buddha Although the original now resides in

Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and

once again looks out over the city from a niche

on the east side of the structure

Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and

now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly

hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance

is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a

great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar

housed in a building at the base of the tree

Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although

one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few

alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed

Mae Hong Son

It is said that Mae Hong Son is the

most authentic and mountainous

province of Thailand For Thai Guru a

good reason to explore this province

side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai

province

Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of

Thailand The northern most part of this

province is at a distance of 924 km from

Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province

in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son

borders Myanmar On the south and east side it

borders Tak and Chiang Mai province

We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast

on the 108 road The scenery is woody and

mountainous so far so good And as we leave

the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek

for wildlife and beautiful landscapes

The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage

is that our average speed drops to less than

15 km hour No worries when you do trips

like these the clock stops and the only thing

on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning

landscapes that unfold before your eyes

The main road is well paved But as you might

understand we regularly go off road

This is the best way to come into contact with

locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo

While we are standing somewhere taking in the

beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a

falcon calling

A short walk through the forrest the sound

stops and we decide to sit down for some

water and well earned rest After a short while I

hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo

There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters

above us a white rumped falcon

Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras

it stays there and even when we start making

noises because we want to film it in flight it

takes itrsquos time

Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of

Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They

cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more

Of course they also have their own cattle And

walking through one of their small villages they

are very friendly and hospitable

It has to be said it is never smart to enter

a community or people with your camera

as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask

the people if they mind if you taking their

photograph or want to film their daily life

In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to

the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean

and offers a nice variety food on the terrace

with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city

where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists

Really nice to stroll down the walking street and

find food or a nice souvenir People are very

friendly as usual

From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae

Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an

average speed of 15 km hour

Halfway we jump out of the car into a river

Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to

keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn

but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around

without it

Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome

us and are gladly willing to allow us to make

photographs and film them

In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early

morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises

For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum

After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark

Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon

So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team

ChinatownBangkok

Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese

people in big cities around the world

Manhattan San Francisco Manilla

Paris and Boston have them and

more keep being officially recognised

in their role as historical and touristic

center every year Even places like

Dubai and Las Vegas have modern

day versions of this phenomenon

As soon as you pass under one of the famous

large red entrance arches you arrive in a

complete different world

A world that is paradise for photographers

A couple of the photographers in the Thai

Guru team decided to spend some time in the

Bangkok version of Chinatown

If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for

some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at

Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim

Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat

SLEEPY NANA dream destination

Relatively unknown and uncrowded

Nan has it all This gem of a province

hides an abundance of cultural and

natural attractions ancient temples

pristine forests rivers mountain

peaks but what strikes you most is

its omnipresent feel of an untroubled

authentic way of life

Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings

you this genuine feel in pictures and footage

For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of

Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant

nature and the nature of its people show

Thailand - as is often said before hordes of

tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas

it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan

managed to escape this proces but will it stay

that way Nan shares most of its border with

neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening

of the border and beyond towards China it is to

be expected that it will ultimately become an

important gateway for trade and tourism

Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town

and the countryside will enchant you and the natural

cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy

for at least a couple of days The town along the banks

of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base

to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night

life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous

temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue

influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The

great surroundings can best be explored by renting a

motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo

Much of the province is devoted to farming

Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still

being practised in areas of the province resulting

in a landscape where forests and fields alternate

Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside

of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature

peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich

natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the

province sees far fewer visitors than popular

neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You

can go white water rafting on the Wa River

along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim

National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay

overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes

Touring Nan

Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern

lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities

of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old

salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via

endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges

and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with

orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers

Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready

to be harvested broke through the green hills

giving a golden hue to the landscape

We encountered friendly villagers who worked

their way through the dry fields - meanwhile

singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to

supplement their meager incomes Despite their

hardship they showed us their heartwarming

hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes

with us

This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi

Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and

sparsely populated that we only passed two

cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos

difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand

nowadays

PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river

The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness

begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over

the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above

the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is

broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices

Then the carved image of a Naga becomes

visible above the water line followed by more

than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted

in red and gold colorshellip

During the year the remote provincial town

of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a

year for the annual spectacle of traditional

Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos

water artery The finals are held over two

days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos

banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite

team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in

Thailand yet relatively unknown

The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long

simple shelters where the massive dragon boats

are housed during the year Just once a year

they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos

most important sporting and social event The

event takes place right after the end of the

rainy season around early November when

water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at

their highest The colorful races are part of the

festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the

last day of Buddhist Lent in October

The narrow boats are made from massive

hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters

in length depending how many paddlers they

are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily

distinguishable by their use of bright colors and

mythical designs in the traditional local style

The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of

each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting

only the good ones to participate in their race

How to get there

Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is

connected by plane and by bus to the rest of

the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan

Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice

each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to

Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to

Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on

the service

Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan

(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8

hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)

The contestants of the races are classified into

three categories mdashlarge medium and small

boats Depending on their length each boat can

accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers

sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the

same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously

against the current to the frantic beating of a

drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern

The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying

their attempt to reach the finish line first and

the paddles churning up the river creates a

spectacular atmosphere

Son

g K

ran

in

Ch

ian

g M

ai

Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of

the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down

in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The

days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing

steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the

hot months of April and May The stifling mid-

day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out

unless necessary The buzz around town about

some festival called Song Kran is starting to

increase an underlying excitement rising

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
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Page 8: Thaiguru issue10

Upon our arrival I headed off to meet with the

parks general manager Khun Nu who informed

us that their resident vet would be arriving

shortly After a short wander around the park we

headed in the direction of the medical facilities

which comprised of what I would describe

as a kind of lsquowaiting roomrsquo area for the sick

elephants a large roofed structure able to house

several of the large animals Next to this was

one of two treatment areas again a large shed

construction with a very sturdy looking steel

frame set into the concrete floor to which the

elephants can be tethered while being seen by

the vet

Approaching the waiting area a slight figure

wearing a green surgical smock could be seen

with a mahout crouched under the head of a

young female elephant treating its neck the

first patient of the day The cow as females are

known was being treated for some sores around

the neck The vet was daubing the area with

disinfectant to help prevent infection working

quickly and efficiently in silence unaware of our

presence

The vet a 28 year old woman going by the

nickname of lsquoImrsquo (a short vowel sounding i as

in it) has been working at the elephant clinic

since she graduated 4 years previously from the

Faculty of Veterinary Medicine at Chiang Mai

University after completing a 6 year veterinary

degree Her love of these majestic creatures

was the focus of her dissertation Working daily

from 9 to 5 keeps her pretty busy with the park

employing her on a full-time basis

The second elephant to be seen by Im was

housed in an older treatment area nearby This

time the problem was a cut on the bottom of its

foot caused by walking on some glass

With the elephants mahout on-hand to assist

Im first had to check to see if there was any

remaining glass in the wound This done the next

stage was cleaning the injury which was done

using a giant foot bath

The elephantrsquos mahout guided the elephant into

position so that her front feet would be standing

in the disinfecting solution But rather than just

walking the animal through the solution the

elephant had to stand patiently with its feet in the

foot bath for a whole hour

During the treatment the elephantrsquos tether was lying unsecured on the floor but she stood calmly allowing

the vet to do her task even being in some discomfort It shows how trusting these animals can be with

humans The female elephant must have known that Im was there to help her

During an average day Im will treat 4 or 5 elephants usually foot injuries and other such problems as we

witnessed that morning cleaning and disinfecting wounds to prevent infection When she does have

a quieter day Imrsquos time is taken up with the general wellbeing of the elephants with nail trimming and

administrating drugs However her work isnrsquot limited to the park elephants

On occasion elephants outside the park require help so they can contact Im who will go out to the

surrounding area and provide a mobile clinic This service is provided free of charge courtesy of the park and

is a much appreciated service to the elephants who do not have a fixed home and whose mahouts cannot

otherwise afford treatment for their animals

With the sun approaching the meridian we said our farewells and headed back to town with the peace of

mind knowing that the magnificent elephants would be in the capable hands of Im the vet who cares and

treats them day to day

International Training Massage School

On a peaceful street a short walk from Chiang

Mairsquos old city is the International Training Massage

School An airy modern building in the traditional

Lanna style welcomes beginners seeking to learn

the basics of traditional Thai massage as well as

seasoned massage professionals looking to expand

their skills

Thai Guru is well used to being on the receiving

end of a skilful pair of hands of belonging to an

experienced masseuse so were pleased to be

invited to join the students at ITM to learn a bit more

about the training that is required to perform one of

the best things about living in Thailand

Chiang Mai is a mecca for those wishing to

spend a few days a few weeks or a few months

learning the art of Nuad Boran or lsquoancient

Thai Massagersquo Massage is serious business

in this part of the world and schools like ITM

tech everything from introduction courses

to advanced teacher training There are also

some quite specific classes on offer including

pregnancy massage hot stone healing massage

and infant massage

The ITM students turn up to begin their studies

early in the morning Shoes and sandals are left

outside the building next to a decorative koi

carp pond comfortable loose fitting pyjamas

are donned feet are washed and it is off to one

of the yoga studios to settle down and the first

blessing of the day Prayers are offered up by

students and teachers to Dr Shivago Komarpaj

Buddharsquos physician and the father of Thai

massage

Traditional Thai massage is practiced without

oils unguents or lotions and both giver and

receiver keep their clothes on The therapy

involves the compression rocking stretching

and manipulation of the joints and muscles

rather than the rubbing and stroking often

employed in other forms of massage

Once the prayers and blessings have been given up it is time for the students to get themselves ready for

the dayrsquos exertions by stretching To the relaxing sounds of flute music a teacher guides the trainees through

a set of yoga moves On the morning Thai Guru visited there were fifteen students being gently told to

assume the lsquosupermanrsquo and kick their legs into the air for the lsquoreverse bicyclersquo

We were informed that the combination of rhythmic stretches traditionally used by yogis and hermits (who

probably better than anyone know the importance of a good stretch) as well as warming up the studentsrsquo

bodies help the novices to understand better what they will be doing to the bodies of those they are about

to massage

A short break for coffee and bananas in a quiet courtyard watched over by a shrine to Dr Shivago and itrsquos

back to the classroom for a demonstration of the significance of some basic Nuad Boran moves The

students gather round books with detailed diagrams open on their laps to study how to perfect moves like

lsquothe flamingorsquo and lsquothe last tangorsquo among others

The founder of the school Mr Chongkol Setthakorn takes over the class for

the serious task of making sure the students have been paying attention and

arenrsquot in the process of giving each other hernias A quick prayer is said and

the real business of bending stretching and joint crunching begins

The students we met had been training for between three and four weeks

However courses at ITM and indeed at schools across Chiang Mai can be

tailored to fit the requirements of anyone who wishes to get involved in an

activity that gives enormous pleasure to both the giver and receiver - as Mr

Settakorn astutely explains ldquoThai Massage is like a thousand gentle waves

washing over the bodyrdquo

ITM ndash International Training Massage School

599 Chang Puak Road

Soi 4 Chor

Sriphum

Muang Chiang Mai

50200 THAILAND

Phone +66-5321-8632

Mobile +66-83-763-1002

Email itmitmthaimassagecom

wwwitmthaimassagecom

Krabi dream destination

After a couple of weeks traveling through

Thailand many are looking for the

perfect location to spend their last days

of their vancation Perfection doesnrsquot

exist but dream destination Krabi is gets

close

Located in the south west of Thailand

Krabi is also thanks to its airport an easy

destination to reach

You will notice the friendly atmosphere in this

area of Thailand right away

A couple of must sees like the Emerald Pond

and the Hot Waterfall are definitely worth your

visit Imagine relaxing in a the hot waterfall

under the exotic trees

And of course an island tour is a must when

you are in Krabi

By boat you can visit Por da Koh Hong Koh Kai

and the famous Pranang cave

Khao Yai National Park

Since establishing Thai Guru Magazine

we have been eager to take our

cameras to Khao Yai National Park

Having visited the area previously

I had already enjoyed the beauty

of Khao Yai and the abundance of

wildlife to be seen there and was keen

to share it with the rest of the team

Finally at the end of January we

jumped in the car for the long drive

south from

Chiang Mai

Three hours northeast of Bangkok Khao Yai

is the oldest and third largest national park

in Thailand Grasslands evergreen forests

monsoon forests and rain forests cover more

than 2000 square kilometres of this Unesco

World Heritage site

The park is teeming with wildlife Mammals

including elephant gibbon barking deer and

guar live within the parkrsquos borders The area

is also home to carnivores such as Asian wild

dogs and tigers as well as numerous reptiles and

amphibians including king cobras pythons and

monitor lizards Nearly 400 species of bird can

be found at Khao Yai Other attractions in this

trekkersrsquo paradise include several large waterfalls

The 20 metre Haew Suwat waterfall with is

deep pool was made famous by the film lsquoThe

Beachrsquo

Day 1The road leading to the gates of Khao Yai National Park is notable for its

numerous Italian influenced restaurants hotels and guesthouses A paradise

for pizza and pasta lovers there is even a small Italian-style village with ice-

cream parlours eateries and Italian themed guesthouses Almost immediately

after entering the park we were greeted by the sight of black giant squirrels

and pig tailed macaques clamouring in the canopy all around us Our first stop

was the visitor centre where we picked up a map of the park and other useful

information Outside were several sambar deer picking through restaurant

leftovers The rest of the day was spent exploring spots in which to set up

our cameras the following day We also made the first of several walks to the

observation tower adjacent to Nong Pak Chee reservoir As well as fabulous

views of the park the tower overlooks a saltlick where all manner of wildlife

gathers to suck up vital minerals and nutrients

Day 2Khao Yai is extremely popular with visitors and we could only

book lodging within its borders for the last two days of our trip

This meant an early start so we could get into the park in time to

shoot the sunrise We were the first visitors of the day and drove

to one of the places we had explored the day before We came

across what we thought was one of the many sambar or barking

deer that roam freely around the park We decided to take a

closer look only to find we had stumbled across an Asiatic black

bear half hidden in the morning mist Having spotted us after a

few minutes the handsome creature ambled off into the forest

The dawn had barely broken and our day was already a triumph

The rest of our time was spent following gibbons various varieties

deer and innumerable brightly coloured birds

Day 3Today we were fortunate to be allowed to move

ourselves and our equipment into government-

owned lodgings within the park Our first

mission was to set our cameras up at a place

where we had heard the heavy distinctive

rushing of wings and calls of hornbills (described

by some as sounding like the puffing of a steam

locomotive) the day before

We had expected a long wait but already had

our first shots of this impressive bird in the

can before breakfast We spent many hours

photographing hornbills macaque and other

wildlife

We even stumbled upon a pack of Asian wild

dogs gathered around the carcass of a recently

killed deer We thought our wildlife encounters

for the day were over as we sat down to enjoy

dinner only to be disturbed by scuffling sounds

behind our bungalow The noise was being

made by a pair of porcupines who were not in

the least afraid of us and actually attempted to

chase us away

Day 4The day was spent exploring the trails of Khao Yai and discovering among other wildlife a magnificent

crested serpent eagle As the afternoon drew to a close we decided to take one last trip to the watchtower

From here we witnessed the gathering of a large flock of hornbills We showed some of our footage to a

friendly ranger He was particularly interested in our bear shots We were thrilled to be told that it was very

rare to see a black bear even more so when we were informed that none of the rangers had seen one for

a number of months I decided to leave the tower to find a good place to photograph the sunset Within

a matter of minutes I heard someone scream ldquoBEARrdquo and was back up the stairs in seconds There below

us taking an evening stroll through the grass just metres from where we were perched was another much

younger black bear

Our trip could not have ended better Needless

to say Thai Guru thoroughly recommends a visit

to Khao Yai National Park As already mentioned

the park is popular with both local and foreign

tourists especially on holidays and weekends

We advise that you try to visit during the week

when the park is quieter and the chance of

seeing the amazing wildlife is greater

The park has two camping grounds as well as a

few bungalows that can be booked through the

Department of National Parks Wildlife and Plant

Conservation These need to be booked well

in advance However there are also plenty of

guesthouses and hotels are to be found along

the parkrsquos boundaries

Festival of LanternsThe enchanting atmosphere of Loi Krathong

The weather is cooling down and itrsquos

that time of year again when we all

take to the waterways of Thailand and

give praise to Khongkha the water

Goddess who took care of abundant

rainfall in the past raining season

Donrsquot miss this joyful celebration with

its enchanting atmosphere that brings

one and all in Thailand together

much like Songkran

Thailandrsquos lsquoFestival of Lightsrsquo is celebrated

throughout the kingdom on the night of the

November full moon The end of the rainy

season heralds the coolest months in the

countryrsquos calendar when the river waters are

also supposed to be at their highest

Superstition replaces religion on this night as

thousands flock to the banks of the swollen

rivers and canals to release khratongs floating

tributes to the river spirits and Mother Water ndash

Phra Mae Khongkha In recent years the festival

has been revived in the ancient temples of

Thailandrsquos former capital Sukhothai

Visitors assemble in the Sukhothai Historical

Park with their banana leaf khratongs decorated

with flowers incense sticks and candles to take

part in a ceremony that dates back centuries

Sometimes a coin is added as gift to the spirits

The pretty rafts are then released onto the lake

with a wish

It was once believed that Loi Khratong

was actually created in Sukhothai by Nang

Nopphamas a lady of the court and consort

of the king In fact the celebration was adapted

by Thai Buddhists from a Brahmanical festival

adapted to honour Buddha

The khratong is meant to be a light on the

darkness of the water for Buddha A personrsquos

sins and negative thoughts are also believed to

float away with the colourful little raft Try adding

a lock of your hair for extra luck

Nearly 20 of the Northern provinces will be

showing off a dazzling selection of floats in the

Royal Khratongs Procession as well as holding a

Miss Nopphamat beauty contest

A competition is held for the most beautifully

designed khratong as well as plenty of other

Sukhothai arts and cultural performances

The Light-and-Sound Presentation at Wat

Mahathat explains the history and origins of

Sukhothai and Loi Khratong through dance

music prayer combat displays light effects and

fireworks No Loi Khratong would be complete

without fireworks and thankfully the Thais are

not shy when it comes to blowing things up in

the sky

Tra Kuan pond is the place to be for the floating

of the Royal Khratongs followed by more

firmament-filling pyrotechnics Wat Chana

Songkram is the venue for the Mahachat

sermon Khon Marked Dance and a Thai

classical music performance

Thai Guru decided to travel from Chiang Mai

to Sukhotai for this yearrsquos festivities Although

the heavens decided to open for most of the

celebrations on the final day the rain could not

dampen the celebrations and the spectacle was

jaw dropping

The only thing that was missing due to the rain

was a sky filled with khom loi the sky lanterns

usually released into the firmament in their

hundreds

Although the festivities officially last for the best

part of a week it is the last three days that are

the busiest

Visitors can join in with a range of activities

including fruit carving or just wander around the

historic park listening to live traditional music

watching Thai martial arts or join the parade

of dancers musicians and beauty contestants

all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured

costumes

There are numerous places to stay for the

duration of the festival but it is advisable to

book ahead if you can because this is a very

popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north

from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai Temples

A visit to a temple in Thailand is

unavoidable They are everywhere

We at Thai Guru are well aware that

because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can

quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang

Mai With this in mind (and because

the city is overflowing with hundreds

of them) we have chosen a few of

our favourites we hope are slightly

alternative to the ones on the usual

tourist itinerary

Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to

the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its

latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of

the skills of the local silversmiths Like many

of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was

established several centuries ago The ubosoth

or ordination hall is an intricately designed

silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in

the sunlight

The area around Wua Lai has been the home to

silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past

couple of centuries who are famed throughout

the kingdom for creating detailed embossed

relief patterns on the objects they create

something that is immediately evident and

celebrated at Wat Srisuphan

The larger more traditionally decorated red blue

and gold prayer hall also contains impressive

silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos

life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft

museum

Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the

artisans at work and the temple has its own

silver-working school where apprentices are

trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive

Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved

in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-

robed residents of the temple improve their

linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also

available

Unfortunately women are not allowed to

enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this

is explained on a sign outside the wording of

which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in

the monastic boundary many precious things

incantations amulets and other holy objects

were buried over 500 years ago Entering

inside this area may deteriorated the place or

otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most

of the interior can be appreciated from the

doorway

Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous

for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged

Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai

Due to its being less well advertised than its

neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham

is often a more peaceful temple from which

to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang

Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist

Lent when the place was alive with worshippers

Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once

the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic

giants Following a visit from the Buddha the

giants decided to mend their ways stop eating

their neighbours and convert to Buddhism

For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and

offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the

templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally

constructed towards the end of the 7th century

Although the temple fell into disrepair over the

centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered

a chamber containing a number of Buddha

images The discovery led to the revitalisation of

this mountain top temple

The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are

guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured

sword-wielding warriors The courtyard

overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and

bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of

food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the

road leading to the temple

Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-

west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek

and easily accessible by car or taxi

Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai

was being established the name translates

as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably

because it was used to cast Buddha images for

its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The

entrance to the temple is through a small but

intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos

assembly hall is notable because it is one of the

only viharns of its type constructed solely from

teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a

superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock

astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference

to the king who once used the wooden hall as

his palace The gilded image features mythical

creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured

glass

The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite

from the busy road outside Wooden boxes

contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm

leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a

large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors

Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks

like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a

small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less

imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo

temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru

recommends a quick visit if you are passing

Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous

temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi

Luang

The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the

largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it

was damaged either by an earthquake in the

16th century or cannon fire from the guns

of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese

in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO

funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps

up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga

serpents and a group of five elephants (only the

one without a trunk or ears partially survived

whatever caused the structure to collapse the

others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi

was also once home to one of the most revered

religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald

Buddha Although the original now resides in

Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and

once again looks out over the city from a niche

on the east side of the structure

Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and

now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly

hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance

is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a

great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar

housed in a building at the base of the tree

Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although

one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few

alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed

Mae Hong Son

It is said that Mae Hong Son is the

most authentic and mountainous

province of Thailand For Thai Guru a

good reason to explore this province

side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai

province

Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of

Thailand The northern most part of this

province is at a distance of 924 km from

Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province

in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son

borders Myanmar On the south and east side it

borders Tak and Chiang Mai province

We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast

on the 108 road The scenery is woody and

mountainous so far so good And as we leave

the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek

for wildlife and beautiful landscapes

The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage

is that our average speed drops to less than

15 km hour No worries when you do trips

like these the clock stops and the only thing

on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning

landscapes that unfold before your eyes

The main road is well paved But as you might

understand we regularly go off road

This is the best way to come into contact with

locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo

While we are standing somewhere taking in the

beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a

falcon calling

A short walk through the forrest the sound

stops and we decide to sit down for some

water and well earned rest After a short while I

hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo

There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters

above us a white rumped falcon

Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras

it stays there and even when we start making

noises because we want to film it in flight it

takes itrsquos time

Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of

Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They

cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more

Of course they also have their own cattle And

walking through one of their small villages they

are very friendly and hospitable

It has to be said it is never smart to enter

a community or people with your camera

as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask

the people if they mind if you taking their

photograph or want to film their daily life

In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to

the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean

and offers a nice variety food on the terrace

with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city

where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists

Really nice to stroll down the walking street and

find food or a nice souvenir People are very

friendly as usual

From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae

Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an

average speed of 15 km hour

Halfway we jump out of the car into a river

Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to

keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn

but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around

without it

Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome

us and are gladly willing to allow us to make

photographs and film them

In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early

morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises

For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum

After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark

Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon

So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team

ChinatownBangkok

Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese

people in big cities around the world

Manhattan San Francisco Manilla

Paris and Boston have them and

more keep being officially recognised

in their role as historical and touristic

center every year Even places like

Dubai and Las Vegas have modern

day versions of this phenomenon

As soon as you pass under one of the famous

large red entrance arches you arrive in a

complete different world

A world that is paradise for photographers

A couple of the photographers in the Thai

Guru team decided to spend some time in the

Bangkok version of Chinatown

If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for

some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at

Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim

Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat

SLEEPY NANA dream destination

Relatively unknown and uncrowded

Nan has it all This gem of a province

hides an abundance of cultural and

natural attractions ancient temples

pristine forests rivers mountain

peaks but what strikes you most is

its omnipresent feel of an untroubled

authentic way of life

Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings

you this genuine feel in pictures and footage

For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of

Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant

nature and the nature of its people show

Thailand - as is often said before hordes of

tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas

it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan

managed to escape this proces but will it stay

that way Nan shares most of its border with

neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening

of the border and beyond towards China it is to

be expected that it will ultimately become an

important gateway for trade and tourism

Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town

and the countryside will enchant you and the natural

cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy

for at least a couple of days The town along the banks

of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base

to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night

life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous

temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue

influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The

great surroundings can best be explored by renting a

motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo

Much of the province is devoted to farming

Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still

being practised in areas of the province resulting

in a landscape where forests and fields alternate

Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside

of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature

peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich

natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the

province sees far fewer visitors than popular

neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You

can go white water rafting on the Wa River

along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim

National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay

overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes

Touring Nan

Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern

lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities

of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old

salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via

endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges

and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with

orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers

Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready

to be harvested broke through the green hills

giving a golden hue to the landscape

We encountered friendly villagers who worked

their way through the dry fields - meanwhile

singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to

supplement their meager incomes Despite their

hardship they showed us their heartwarming

hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes

with us

This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi

Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and

sparsely populated that we only passed two

cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos

difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand

nowadays

PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river

The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness

begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over

the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above

the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is

broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices

Then the carved image of a Naga becomes

visible above the water line followed by more

than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted

in red and gold colorshellip

During the year the remote provincial town

of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a

year for the annual spectacle of traditional

Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos

water artery The finals are held over two

days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos

banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite

team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in

Thailand yet relatively unknown

The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long

simple shelters where the massive dragon boats

are housed during the year Just once a year

they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos

most important sporting and social event The

event takes place right after the end of the

rainy season around early November when

water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at

their highest The colorful races are part of the

festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the

last day of Buddhist Lent in October

The narrow boats are made from massive

hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters

in length depending how many paddlers they

are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily

distinguishable by their use of bright colors and

mythical designs in the traditional local style

The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of

each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting

only the good ones to participate in their race

How to get there

Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is

connected by plane and by bus to the rest of

the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan

Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice

each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to

Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to

Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on

the service

Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan

(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8

hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)

The contestants of the races are classified into

three categories mdashlarge medium and small

boats Depending on their length each boat can

accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers

sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the

same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously

against the current to the frantic beating of a

drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern

The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying

their attempt to reach the finish line first and

the paddles churning up the river creates a

spectacular atmosphere

Son

g K

ran

in

Ch

ian

g M

ai

Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of

the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down

in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The

days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing

steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the

hot months of April and May The stifling mid-

day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out

unless necessary The buzz around town about

some festival called Song Kran is starting to

increase an underlying excitement rising

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
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Page 9: Thaiguru issue10

The vet a 28 year old woman going by the

nickname of lsquoImrsquo (a short vowel sounding i as

in it) has been working at the elephant clinic

since she graduated 4 years previously from the

Faculty of Veterinary Medicine at Chiang Mai

University after completing a 6 year veterinary

degree Her love of these majestic creatures

was the focus of her dissertation Working daily

from 9 to 5 keeps her pretty busy with the park

employing her on a full-time basis

The second elephant to be seen by Im was

housed in an older treatment area nearby This

time the problem was a cut on the bottom of its

foot caused by walking on some glass

With the elephants mahout on-hand to assist

Im first had to check to see if there was any

remaining glass in the wound This done the next

stage was cleaning the injury which was done

using a giant foot bath

The elephantrsquos mahout guided the elephant into

position so that her front feet would be standing

in the disinfecting solution But rather than just

walking the animal through the solution the

elephant had to stand patiently with its feet in the

foot bath for a whole hour

During the treatment the elephantrsquos tether was lying unsecured on the floor but she stood calmly allowing

the vet to do her task even being in some discomfort It shows how trusting these animals can be with

humans The female elephant must have known that Im was there to help her

During an average day Im will treat 4 or 5 elephants usually foot injuries and other such problems as we

witnessed that morning cleaning and disinfecting wounds to prevent infection When she does have

a quieter day Imrsquos time is taken up with the general wellbeing of the elephants with nail trimming and

administrating drugs However her work isnrsquot limited to the park elephants

On occasion elephants outside the park require help so they can contact Im who will go out to the

surrounding area and provide a mobile clinic This service is provided free of charge courtesy of the park and

is a much appreciated service to the elephants who do not have a fixed home and whose mahouts cannot

otherwise afford treatment for their animals

With the sun approaching the meridian we said our farewells and headed back to town with the peace of

mind knowing that the magnificent elephants would be in the capable hands of Im the vet who cares and

treats them day to day

International Training Massage School

On a peaceful street a short walk from Chiang

Mairsquos old city is the International Training Massage

School An airy modern building in the traditional

Lanna style welcomes beginners seeking to learn

the basics of traditional Thai massage as well as

seasoned massage professionals looking to expand

their skills

Thai Guru is well used to being on the receiving

end of a skilful pair of hands of belonging to an

experienced masseuse so were pleased to be

invited to join the students at ITM to learn a bit more

about the training that is required to perform one of

the best things about living in Thailand

Chiang Mai is a mecca for those wishing to

spend a few days a few weeks or a few months

learning the art of Nuad Boran or lsquoancient

Thai Massagersquo Massage is serious business

in this part of the world and schools like ITM

tech everything from introduction courses

to advanced teacher training There are also

some quite specific classes on offer including

pregnancy massage hot stone healing massage

and infant massage

The ITM students turn up to begin their studies

early in the morning Shoes and sandals are left

outside the building next to a decorative koi

carp pond comfortable loose fitting pyjamas

are donned feet are washed and it is off to one

of the yoga studios to settle down and the first

blessing of the day Prayers are offered up by

students and teachers to Dr Shivago Komarpaj

Buddharsquos physician and the father of Thai

massage

Traditional Thai massage is practiced without

oils unguents or lotions and both giver and

receiver keep their clothes on The therapy

involves the compression rocking stretching

and manipulation of the joints and muscles

rather than the rubbing and stroking often

employed in other forms of massage

Once the prayers and blessings have been given up it is time for the students to get themselves ready for

the dayrsquos exertions by stretching To the relaxing sounds of flute music a teacher guides the trainees through

a set of yoga moves On the morning Thai Guru visited there were fifteen students being gently told to

assume the lsquosupermanrsquo and kick their legs into the air for the lsquoreverse bicyclersquo

We were informed that the combination of rhythmic stretches traditionally used by yogis and hermits (who

probably better than anyone know the importance of a good stretch) as well as warming up the studentsrsquo

bodies help the novices to understand better what they will be doing to the bodies of those they are about

to massage

A short break for coffee and bananas in a quiet courtyard watched over by a shrine to Dr Shivago and itrsquos

back to the classroom for a demonstration of the significance of some basic Nuad Boran moves The

students gather round books with detailed diagrams open on their laps to study how to perfect moves like

lsquothe flamingorsquo and lsquothe last tangorsquo among others

The founder of the school Mr Chongkol Setthakorn takes over the class for

the serious task of making sure the students have been paying attention and

arenrsquot in the process of giving each other hernias A quick prayer is said and

the real business of bending stretching and joint crunching begins

The students we met had been training for between three and four weeks

However courses at ITM and indeed at schools across Chiang Mai can be

tailored to fit the requirements of anyone who wishes to get involved in an

activity that gives enormous pleasure to both the giver and receiver - as Mr

Settakorn astutely explains ldquoThai Massage is like a thousand gentle waves

washing over the bodyrdquo

ITM ndash International Training Massage School

599 Chang Puak Road

Soi 4 Chor

Sriphum

Muang Chiang Mai

50200 THAILAND

Phone +66-5321-8632

Mobile +66-83-763-1002

Email itmitmthaimassagecom

wwwitmthaimassagecom

Krabi dream destination

After a couple of weeks traveling through

Thailand many are looking for the

perfect location to spend their last days

of their vancation Perfection doesnrsquot

exist but dream destination Krabi is gets

close

Located in the south west of Thailand

Krabi is also thanks to its airport an easy

destination to reach

You will notice the friendly atmosphere in this

area of Thailand right away

A couple of must sees like the Emerald Pond

and the Hot Waterfall are definitely worth your

visit Imagine relaxing in a the hot waterfall

under the exotic trees

And of course an island tour is a must when

you are in Krabi

By boat you can visit Por da Koh Hong Koh Kai

and the famous Pranang cave

Khao Yai National Park

Since establishing Thai Guru Magazine

we have been eager to take our

cameras to Khao Yai National Park

Having visited the area previously

I had already enjoyed the beauty

of Khao Yai and the abundance of

wildlife to be seen there and was keen

to share it with the rest of the team

Finally at the end of January we

jumped in the car for the long drive

south from

Chiang Mai

Three hours northeast of Bangkok Khao Yai

is the oldest and third largest national park

in Thailand Grasslands evergreen forests

monsoon forests and rain forests cover more

than 2000 square kilometres of this Unesco

World Heritage site

The park is teeming with wildlife Mammals

including elephant gibbon barking deer and

guar live within the parkrsquos borders The area

is also home to carnivores such as Asian wild

dogs and tigers as well as numerous reptiles and

amphibians including king cobras pythons and

monitor lizards Nearly 400 species of bird can

be found at Khao Yai Other attractions in this

trekkersrsquo paradise include several large waterfalls

The 20 metre Haew Suwat waterfall with is

deep pool was made famous by the film lsquoThe

Beachrsquo

Day 1The road leading to the gates of Khao Yai National Park is notable for its

numerous Italian influenced restaurants hotels and guesthouses A paradise

for pizza and pasta lovers there is even a small Italian-style village with ice-

cream parlours eateries and Italian themed guesthouses Almost immediately

after entering the park we were greeted by the sight of black giant squirrels

and pig tailed macaques clamouring in the canopy all around us Our first stop

was the visitor centre where we picked up a map of the park and other useful

information Outside were several sambar deer picking through restaurant

leftovers The rest of the day was spent exploring spots in which to set up

our cameras the following day We also made the first of several walks to the

observation tower adjacent to Nong Pak Chee reservoir As well as fabulous

views of the park the tower overlooks a saltlick where all manner of wildlife

gathers to suck up vital minerals and nutrients

Day 2Khao Yai is extremely popular with visitors and we could only

book lodging within its borders for the last two days of our trip

This meant an early start so we could get into the park in time to

shoot the sunrise We were the first visitors of the day and drove

to one of the places we had explored the day before We came

across what we thought was one of the many sambar or barking

deer that roam freely around the park We decided to take a

closer look only to find we had stumbled across an Asiatic black

bear half hidden in the morning mist Having spotted us after a

few minutes the handsome creature ambled off into the forest

The dawn had barely broken and our day was already a triumph

The rest of our time was spent following gibbons various varieties

deer and innumerable brightly coloured birds

Day 3Today we were fortunate to be allowed to move

ourselves and our equipment into government-

owned lodgings within the park Our first

mission was to set our cameras up at a place

where we had heard the heavy distinctive

rushing of wings and calls of hornbills (described

by some as sounding like the puffing of a steam

locomotive) the day before

We had expected a long wait but already had

our first shots of this impressive bird in the

can before breakfast We spent many hours

photographing hornbills macaque and other

wildlife

We even stumbled upon a pack of Asian wild

dogs gathered around the carcass of a recently

killed deer We thought our wildlife encounters

for the day were over as we sat down to enjoy

dinner only to be disturbed by scuffling sounds

behind our bungalow The noise was being

made by a pair of porcupines who were not in

the least afraid of us and actually attempted to

chase us away

Day 4The day was spent exploring the trails of Khao Yai and discovering among other wildlife a magnificent

crested serpent eagle As the afternoon drew to a close we decided to take one last trip to the watchtower

From here we witnessed the gathering of a large flock of hornbills We showed some of our footage to a

friendly ranger He was particularly interested in our bear shots We were thrilled to be told that it was very

rare to see a black bear even more so when we were informed that none of the rangers had seen one for

a number of months I decided to leave the tower to find a good place to photograph the sunset Within

a matter of minutes I heard someone scream ldquoBEARrdquo and was back up the stairs in seconds There below

us taking an evening stroll through the grass just metres from where we were perched was another much

younger black bear

Our trip could not have ended better Needless

to say Thai Guru thoroughly recommends a visit

to Khao Yai National Park As already mentioned

the park is popular with both local and foreign

tourists especially on holidays and weekends

We advise that you try to visit during the week

when the park is quieter and the chance of

seeing the amazing wildlife is greater

The park has two camping grounds as well as a

few bungalows that can be booked through the

Department of National Parks Wildlife and Plant

Conservation These need to be booked well

in advance However there are also plenty of

guesthouses and hotels are to be found along

the parkrsquos boundaries

Festival of LanternsThe enchanting atmosphere of Loi Krathong

The weather is cooling down and itrsquos

that time of year again when we all

take to the waterways of Thailand and

give praise to Khongkha the water

Goddess who took care of abundant

rainfall in the past raining season

Donrsquot miss this joyful celebration with

its enchanting atmosphere that brings

one and all in Thailand together

much like Songkran

Thailandrsquos lsquoFestival of Lightsrsquo is celebrated

throughout the kingdom on the night of the

November full moon The end of the rainy

season heralds the coolest months in the

countryrsquos calendar when the river waters are

also supposed to be at their highest

Superstition replaces religion on this night as

thousands flock to the banks of the swollen

rivers and canals to release khratongs floating

tributes to the river spirits and Mother Water ndash

Phra Mae Khongkha In recent years the festival

has been revived in the ancient temples of

Thailandrsquos former capital Sukhothai

Visitors assemble in the Sukhothai Historical

Park with their banana leaf khratongs decorated

with flowers incense sticks and candles to take

part in a ceremony that dates back centuries

Sometimes a coin is added as gift to the spirits

The pretty rafts are then released onto the lake

with a wish

It was once believed that Loi Khratong

was actually created in Sukhothai by Nang

Nopphamas a lady of the court and consort

of the king In fact the celebration was adapted

by Thai Buddhists from a Brahmanical festival

adapted to honour Buddha

The khratong is meant to be a light on the

darkness of the water for Buddha A personrsquos

sins and negative thoughts are also believed to

float away with the colourful little raft Try adding

a lock of your hair for extra luck

Nearly 20 of the Northern provinces will be

showing off a dazzling selection of floats in the

Royal Khratongs Procession as well as holding a

Miss Nopphamat beauty contest

A competition is held for the most beautifully

designed khratong as well as plenty of other

Sukhothai arts and cultural performances

The Light-and-Sound Presentation at Wat

Mahathat explains the history and origins of

Sukhothai and Loi Khratong through dance

music prayer combat displays light effects and

fireworks No Loi Khratong would be complete

without fireworks and thankfully the Thais are

not shy when it comes to blowing things up in

the sky

Tra Kuan pond is the place to be for the floating

of the Royal Khratongs followed by more

firmament-filling pyrotechnics Wat Chana

Songkram is the venue for the Mahachat

sermon Khon Marked Dance and a Thai

classical music performance

Thai Guru decided to travel from Chiang Mai

to Sukhotai for this yearrsquos festivities Although

the heavens decided to open for most of the

celebrations on the final day the rain could not

dampen the celebrations and the spectacle was

jaw dropping

The only thing that was missing due to the rain

was a sky filled with khom loi the sky lanterns

usually released into the firmament in their

hundreds

Although the festivities officially last for the best

part of a week it is the last three days that are

the busiest

Visitors can join in with a range of activities

including fruit carving or just wander around the

historic park listening to live traditional music

watching Thai martial arts or join the parade

of dancers musicians and beauty contestants

all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured

costumes

There are numerous places to stay for the

duration of the festival but it is advisable to

book ahead if you can because this is a very

popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north

from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai Temples

A visit to a temple in Thailand is

unavoidable They are everywhere

We at Thai Guru are well aware that

because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can

quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang

Mai With this in mind (and because

the city is overflowing with hundreds

of them) we have chosen a few of

our favourites we hope are slightly

alternative to the ones on the usual

tourist itinerary

Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to

the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its

latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of

the skills of the local silversmiths Like many

of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was

established several centuries ago The ubosoth

or ordination hall is an intricately designed

silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in

the sunlight

The area around Wua Lai has been the home to

silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past

couple of centuries who are famed throughout

the kingdom for creating detailed embossed

relief patterns on the objects they create

something that is immediately evident and

celebrated at Wat Srisuphan

The larger more traditionally decorated red blue

and gold prayer hall also contains impressive

silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos

life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft

museum

Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the

artisans at work and the temple has its own

silver-working school where apprentices are

trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive

Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved

in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-

robed residents of the temple improve their

linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also

available

Unfortunately women are not allowed to

enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this

is explained on a sign outside the wording of

which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in

the monastic boundary many precious things

incantations amulets and other holy objects

were buried over 500 years ago Entering

inside this area may deteriorated the place or

otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most

of the interior can be appreciated from the

doorway

Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous

for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged

Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai

Due to its being less well advertised than its

neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham

is often a more peaceful temple from which

to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang

Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist

Lent when the place was alive with worshippers

Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once

the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic

giants Following a visit from the Buddha the

giants decided to mend their ways stop eating

their neighbours and convert to Buddhism

For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and

offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the

templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally

constructed towards the end of the 7th century

Although the temple fell into disrepair over the

centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered

a chamber containing a number of Buddha

images The discovery led to the revitalisation of

this mountain top temple

The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are

guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured

sword-wielding warriors The courtyard

overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and

bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of

food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the

road leading to the temple

Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-

west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek

and easily accessible by car or taxi

Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai

was being established the name translates

as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably

because it was used to cast Buddha images for

its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The

entrance to the temple is through a small but

intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos

assembly hall is notable because it is one of the

only viharns of its type constructed solely from

teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a

superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock

astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference

to the king who once used the wooden hall as

his palace The gilded image features mythical

creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured

glass

The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite

from the busy road outside Wooden boxes

contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm

leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a

large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors

Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks

like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a

small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less

imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo

temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru

recommends a quick visit if you are passing

Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous

temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi

Luang

The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the

largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it

was damaged either by an earthquake in the

16th century or cannon fire from the guns

of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese

in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO

funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps

up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga

serpents and a group of five elephants (only the

one without a trunk or ears partially survived

whatever caused the structure to collapse the

others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi

was also once home to one of the most revered

religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald

Buddha Although the original now resides in

Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and

once again looks out over the city from a niche

on the east side of the structure

Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and

now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly

hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance

is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a

great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar

housed in a building at the base of the tree

Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although

one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few

alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed

Mae Hong Son

It is said that Mae Hong Son is the

most authentic and mountainous

province of Thailand For Thai Guru a

good reason to explore this province

side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai

province

Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of

Thailand The northern most part of this

province is at a distance of 924 km from

Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province

in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son

borders Myanmar On the south and east side it

borders Tak and Chiang Mai province

We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast

on the 108 road The scenery is woody and

mountainous so far so good And as we leave

the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek

for wildlife and beautiful landscapes

The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage

is that our average speed drops to less than

15 km hour No worries when you do trips

like these the clock stops and the only thing

on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning

landscapes that unfold before your eyes

The main road is well paved But as you might

understand we regularly go off road

This is the best way to come into contact with

locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo

While we are standing somewhere taking in the

beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a

falcon calling

A short walk through the forrest the sound

stops and we decide to sit down for some

water and well earned rest After a short while I

hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo

There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters

above us a white rumped falcon

Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras

it stays there and even when we start making

noises because we want to film it in flight it

takes itrsquos time

Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of

Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They

cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more

Of course they also have their own cattle And

walking through one of their small villages they

are very friendly and hospitable

It has to be said it is never smart to enter

a community or people with your camera

as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask

the people if they mind if you taking their

photograph or want to film their daily life

In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to

the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean

and offers a nice variety food on the terrace

with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city

where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists

Really nice to stroll down the walking street and

find food or a nice souvenir People are very

friendly as usual

From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae

Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an

average speed of 15 km hour

Halfway we jump out of the car into a river

Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to

keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn

but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around

without it

Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome

us and are gladly willing to allow us to make

photographs and film them

In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early

morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises

For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum

After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark

Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon

So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team

ChinatownBangkok

Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese

people in big cities around the world

Manhattan San Francisco Manilla

Paris and Boston have them and

more keep being officially recognised

in their role as historical and touristic

center every year Even places like

Dubai and Las Vegas have modern

day versions of this phenomenon

As soon as you pass under one of the famous

large red entrance arches you arrive in a

complete different world

A world that is paradise for photographers

A couple of the photographers in the Thai

Guru team decided to spend some time in the

Bangkok version of Chinatown

If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for

some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at

Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim

Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat

SLEEPY NANA dream destination

Relatively unknown and uncrowded

Nan has it all This gem of a province

hides an abundance of cultural and

natural attractions ancient temples

pristine forests rivers mountain

peaks but what strikes you most is

its omnipresent feel of an untroubled

authentic way of life

Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings

you this genuine feel in pictures and footage

For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of

Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant

nature and the nature of its people show

Thailand - as is often said before hordes of

tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas

it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan

managed to escape this proces but will it stay

that way Nan shares most of its border with

neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening

of the border and beyond towards China it is to

be expected that it will ultimately become an

important gateway for trade and tourism

Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town

and the countryside will enchant you and the natural

cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy

for at least a couple of days The town along the banks

of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base

to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night

life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous

temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue

influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The

great surroundings can best be explored by renting a

motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo

Much of the province is devoted to farming

Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still

being practised in areas of the province resulting

in a landscape where forests and fields alternate

Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside

of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature

peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich

natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the

province sees far fewer visitors than popular

neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You

can go white water rafting on the Wa River

along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim

National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay

overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes

Touring Nan

Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern

lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities

of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old

salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via

endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges

and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with

orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers

Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready

to be harvested broke through the green hills

giving a golden hue to the landscape

We encountered friendly villagers who worked

their way through the dry fields - meanwhile

singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to

supplement their meager incomes Despite their

hardship they showed us their heartwarming

hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes

with us

This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi

Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and

sparsely populated that we only passed two

cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos

difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand

nowadays

PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river

The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness

begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over

the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above

the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is

broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices

Then the carved image of a Naga becomes

visible above the water line followed by more

than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted

in red and gold colorshellip

During the year the remote provincial town

of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a

year for the annual spectacle of traditional

Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos

water artery The finals are held over two

days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos

banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite

team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in

Thailand yet relatively unknown

The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long

simple shelters where the massive dragon boats

are housed during the year Just once a year

they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos

most important sporting and social event The

event takes place right after the end of the

rainy season around early November when

water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at

their highest The colorful races are part of the

festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the

last day of Buddhist Lent in October

The narrow boats are made from massive

hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters

in length depending how many paddlers they

are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily

distinguishable by their use of bright colors and

mythical designs in the traditional local style

The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of

each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting

only the good ones to participate in their race

How to get there

Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is

connected by plane and by bus to the rest of

the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan

Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice

each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to

Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to

Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on

the service

Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan

(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8

hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)

The contestants of the races are classified into

three categories mdashlarge medium and small

boats Depending on their length each boat can

accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers

sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the

same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously

against the current to the frantic beating of a

drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern

The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying

their attempt to reach the finish line first and

the paddles churning up the river creates a

spectacular atmosphere

Son

g K

ran

in

Ch

ian

g M

ai

Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of

the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down

in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The

days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing

steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the

hot months of April and May The stifling mid-

day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out

unless necessary The buzz around town about

some festival called Song Kran is starting to

increase an underlying excitement rising

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

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These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

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Page 10: Thaiguru issue10

The second elephant to be seen by Im was

housed in an older treatment area nearby This

time the problem was a cut on the bottom of its

foot caused by walking on some glass

With the elephants mahout on-hand to assist

Im first had to check to see if there was any

remaining glass in the wound This done the next

stage was cleaning the injury which was done

using a giant foot bath

The elephantrsquos mahout guided the elephant into

position so that her front feet would be standing

in the disinfecting solution But rather than just

walking the animal through the solution the

elephant had to stand patiently with its feet in the

foot bath for a whole hour

During the treatment the elephantrsquos tether was lying unsecured on the floor but she stood calmly allowing

the vet to do her task even being in some discomfort It shows how trusting these animals can be with

humans The female elephant must have known that Im was there to help her

During an average day Im will treat 4 or 5 elephants usually foot injuries and other such problems as we

witnessed that morning cleaning and disinfecting wounds to prevent infection When she does have

a quieter day Imrsquos time is taken up with the general wellbeing of the elephants with nail trimming and

administrating drugs However her work isnrsquot limited to the park elephants

On occasion elephants outside the park require help so they can contact Im who will go out to the

surrounding area and provide a mobile clinic This service is provided free of charge courtesy of the park and

is a much appreciated service to the elephants who do not have a fixed home and whose mahouts cannot

otherwise afford treatment for their animals

With the sun approaching the meridian we said our farewells and headed back to town with the peace of

mind knowing that the magnificent elephants would be in the capable hands of Im the vet who cares and

treats them day to day

International Training Massage School

On a peaceful street a short walk from Chiang

Mairsquos old city is the International Training Massage

School An airy modern building in the traditional

Lanna style welcomes beginners seeking to learn

the basics of traditional Thai massage as well as

seasoned massage professionals looking to expand

their skills

Thai Guru is well used to being on the receiving

end of a skilful pair of hands of belonging to an

experienced masseuse so were pleased to be

invited to join the students at ITM to learn a bit more

about the training that is required to perform one of

the best things about living in Thailand

Chiang Mai is a mecca for those wishing to

spend a few days a few weeks or a few months

learning the art of Nuad Boran or lsquoancient

Thai Massagersquo Massage is serious business

in this part of the world and schools like ITM

tech everything from introduction courses

to advanced teacher training There are also

some quite specific classes on offer including

pregnancy massage hot stone healing massage

and infant massage

The ITM students turn up to begin their studies

early in the morning Shoes and sandals are left

outside the building next to a decorative koi

carp pond comfortable loose fitting pyjamas

are donned feet are washed and it is off to one

of the yoga studios to settle down and the first

blessing of the day Prayers are offered up by

students and teachers to Dr Shivago Komarpaj

Buddharsquos physician and the father of Thai

massage

Traditional Thai massage is practiced without

oils unguents or lotions and both giver and

receiver keep their clothes on The therapy

involves the compression rocking stretching

and manipulation of the joints and muscles

rather than the rubbing and stroking often

employed in other forms of massage

Once the prayers and blessings have been given up it is time for the students to get themselves ready for

the dayrsquos exertions by stretching To the relaxing sounds of flute music a teacher guides the trainees through

a set of yoga moves On the morning Thai Guru visited there were fifteen students being gently told to

assume the lsquosupermanrsquo and kick their legs into the air for the lsquoreverse bicyclersquo

We were informed that the combination of rhythmic stretches traditionally used by yogis and hermits (who

probably better than anyone know the importance of a good stretch) as well as warming up the studentsrsquo

bodies help the novices to understand better what they will be doing to the bodies of those they are about

to massage

A short break for coffee and bananas in a quiet courtyard watched over by a shrine to Dr Shivago and itrsquos

back to the classroom for a demonstration of the significance of some basic Nuad Boran moves The

students gather round books with detailed diagrams open on their laps to study how to perfect moves like

lsquothe flamingorsquo and lsquothe last tangorsquo among others

The founder of the school Mr Chongkol Setthakorn takes over the class for

the serious task of making sure the students have been paying attention and

arenrsquot in the process of giving each other hernias A quick prayer is said and

the real business of bending stretching and joint crunching begins

The students we met had been training for between three and four weeks

However courses at ITM and indeed at schools across Chiang Mai can be

tailored to fit the requirements of anyone who wishes to get involved in an

activity that gives enormous pleasure to both the giver and receiver - as Mr

Settakorn astutely explains ldquoThai Massage is like a thousand gentle waves

washing over the bodyrdquo

ITM ndash International Training Massage School

599 Chang Puak Road

Soi 4 Chor

Sriphum

Muang Chiang Mai

50200 THAILAND

Phone +66-5321-8632

Mobile +66-83-763-1002

Email itmitmthaimassagecom

wwwitmthaimassagecom

Krabi dream destination

After a couple of weeks traveling through

Thailand many are looking for the

perfect location to spend their last days

of their vancation Perfection doesnrsquot

exist but dream destination Krabi is gets

close

Located in the south west of Thailand

Krabi is also thanks to its airport an easy

destination to reach

You will notice the friendly atmosphere in this

area of Thailand right away

A couple of must sees like the Emerald Pond

and the Hot Waterfall are definitely worth your

visit Imagine relaxing in a the hot waterfall

under the exotic trees

And of course an island tour is a must when

you are in Krabi

By boat you can visit Por da Koh Hong Koh Kai

and the famous Pranang cave

Khao Yai National Park

Since establishing Thai Guru Magazine

we have been eager to take our

cameras to Khao Yai National Park

Having visited the area previously

I had already enjoyed the beauty

of Khao Yai and the abundance of

wildlife to be seen there and was keen

to share it with the rest of the team

Finally at the end of January we

jumped in the car for the long drive

south from

Chiang Mai

Three hours northeast of Bangkok Khao Yai

is the oldest and third largest national park

in Thailand Grasslands evergreen forests

monsoon forests and rain forests cover more

than 2000 square kilometres of this Unesco

World Heritage site

The park is teeming with wildlife Mammals

including elephant gibbon barking deer and

guar live within the parkrsquos borders The area

is also home to carnivores such as Asian wild

dogs and tigers as well as numerous reptiles and

amphibians including king cobras pythons and

monitor lizards Nearly 400 species of bird can

be found at Khao Yai Other attractions in this

trekkersrsquo paradise include several large waterfalls

The 20 metre Haew Suwat waterfall with is

deep pool was made famous by the film lsquoThe

Beachrsquo

Day 1The road leading to the gates of Khao Yai National Park is notable for its

numerous Italian influenced restaurants hotels and guesthouses A paradise

for pizza and pasta lovers there is even a small Italian-style village with ice-

cream parlours eateries and Italian themed guesthouses Almost immediately

after entering the park we were greeted by the sight of black giant squirrels

and pig tailed macaques clamouring in the canopy all around us Our first stop

was the visitor centre where we picked up a map of the park and other useful

information Outside were several sambar deer picking through restaurant

leftovers The rest of the day was spent exploring spots in which to set up

our cameras the following day We also made the first of several walks to the

observation tower adjacent to Nong Pak Chee reservoir As well as fabulous

views of the park the tower overlooks a saltlick where all manner of wildlife

gathers to suck up vital minerals and nutrients

Day 2Khao Yai is extremely popular with visitors and we could only

book lodging within its borders for the last two days of our trip

This meant an early start so we could get into the park in time to

shoot the sunrise We were the first visitors of the day and drove

to one of the places we had explored the day before We came

across what we thought was one of the many sambar or barking

deer that roam freely around the park We decided to take a

closer look only to find we had stumbled across an Asiatic black

bear half hidden in the morning mist Having spotted us after a

few minutes the handsome creature ambled off into the forest

The dawn had barely broken and our day was already a triumph

The rest of our time was spent following gibbons various varieties

deer and innumerable brightly coloured birds

Day 3Today we were fortunate to be allowed to move

ourselves and our equipment into government-

owned lodgings within the park Our first

mission was to set our cameras up at a place

where we had heard the heavy distinctive

rushing of wings and calls of hornbills (described

by some as sounding like the puffing of a steam

locomotive) the day before

We had expected a long wait but already had

our first shots of this impressive bird in the

can before breakfast We spent many hours

photographing hornbills macaque and other

wildlife

We even stumbled upon a pack of Asian wild

dogs gathered around the carcass of a recently

killed deer We thought our wildlife encounters

for the day were over as we sat down to enjoy

dinner only to be disturbed by scuffling sounds

behind our bungalow The noise was being

made by a pair of porcupines who were not in

the least afraid of us and actually attempted to

chase us away

Day 4The day was spent exploring the trails of Khao Yai and discovering among other wildlife a magnificent

crested serpent eagle As the afternoon drew to a close we decided to take one last trip to the watchtower

From here we witnessed the gathering of a large flock of hornbills We showed some of our footage to a

friendly ranger He was particularly interested in our bear shots We were thrilled to be told that it was very

rare to see a black bear even more so when we were informed that none of the rangers had seen one for

a number of months I decided to leave the tower to find a good place to photograph the sunset Within

a matter of minutes I heard someone scream ldquoBEARrdquo and was back up the stairs in seconds There below

us taking an evening stroll through the grass just metres from where we were perched was another much

younger black bear

Our trip could not have ended better Needless

to say Thai Guru thoroughly recommends a visit

to Khao Yai National Park As already mentioned

the park is popular with both local and foreign

tourists especially on holidays and weekends

We advise that you try to visit during the week

when the park is quieter and the chance of

seeing the amazing wildlife is greater

The park has two camping grounds as well as a

few bungalows that can be booked through the

Department of National Parks Wildlife and Plant

Conservation These need to be booked well

in advance However there are also plenty of

guesthouses and hotels are to be found along

the parkrsquos boundaries

Festival of LanternsThe enchanting atmosphere of Loi Krathong

The weather is cooling down and itrsquos

that time of year again when we all

take to the waterways of Thailand and

give praise to Khongkha the water

Goddess who took care of abundant

rainfall in the past raining season

Donrsquot miss this joyful celebration with

its enchanting atmosphere that brings

one and all in Thailand together

much like Songkran

Thailandrsquos lsquoFestival of Lightsrsquo is celebrated

throughout the kingdom on the night of the

November full moon The end of the rainy

season heralds the coolest months in the

countryrsquos calendar when the river waters are

also supposed to be at their highest

Superstition replaces religion on this night as

thousands flock to the banks of the swollen

rivers and canals to release khratongs floating

tributes to the river spirits and Mother Water ndash

Phra Mae Khongkha In recent years the festival

has been revived in the ancient temples of

Thailandrsquos former capital Sukhothai

Visitors assemble in the Sukhothai Historical

Park with their banana leaf khratongs decorated

with flowers incense sticks and candles to take

part in a ceremony that dates back centuries

Sometimes a coin is added as gift to the spirits

The pretty rafts are then released onto the lake

with a wish

It was once believed that Loi Khratong

was actually created in Sukhothai by Nang

Nopphamas a lady of the court and consort

of the king In fact the celebration was adapted

by Thai Buddhists from a Brahmanical festival

adapted to honour Buddha

The khratong is meant to be a light on the

darkness of the water for Buddha A personrsquos

sins and negative thoughts are also believed to

float away with the colourful little raft Try adding

a lock of your hair for extra luck

Nearly 20 of the Northern provinces will be

showing off a dazzling selection of floats in the

Royal Khratongs Procession as well as holding a

Miss Nopphamat beauty contest

A competition is held for the most beautifully

designed khratong as well as plenty of other

Sukhothai arts and cultural performances

The Light-and-Sound Presentation at Wat

Mahathat explains the history and origins of

Sukhothai and Loi Khratong through dance

music prayer combat displays light effects and

fireworks No Loi Khratong would be complete

without fireworks and thankfully the Thais are

not shy when it comes to blowing things up in

the sky

Tra Kuan pond is the place to be for the floating

of the Royal Khratongs followed by more

firmament-filling pyrotechnics Wat Chana

Songkram is the venue for the Mahachat

sermon Khon Marked Dance and a Thai

classical music performance

Thai Guru decided to travel from Chiang Mai

to Sukhotai for this yearrsquos festivities Although

the heavens decided to open for most of the

celebrations on the final day the rain could not

dampen the celebrations and the spectacle was

jaw dropping

The only thing that was missing due to the rain

was a sky filled with khom loi the sky lanterns

usually released into the firmament in their

hundreds

Although the festivities officially last for the best

part of a week it is the last three days that are

the busiest

Visitors can join in with a range of activities

including fruit carving or just wander around the

historic park listening to live traditional music

watching Thai martial arts or join the parade

of dancers musicians and beauty contestants

all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured

costumes

There are numerous places to stay for the

duration of the festival but it is advisable to

book ahead if you can because this is a very

popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north

from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai Temples

A visit to a temple in Thailand is

unavoidable They are everywhere

We at Thai Guru are well aware that

because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can

quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang

Mai With this in mind (and because

the city is overflowing with hundreds

of them) we have chosen a few of

our favourites we hope are slightly

alternative to the ones on the usual

tourist itinerary

Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to

the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its

latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of

the skills of the local silversmiths Like many

of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was

established several centuries ago The ubosoth

or ordination hall is an intricately designed

silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in

the sunlight

The area around Wua Lai has been the home to

silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past

couple of centuries who are famed throughout

the kingdom for creating detailed embossed

relief patterns on the objects they create

something that is immediately evident and

celebrated at Wat Srisuphan

The larger more traditionally decorated red blue

and gold prayer hall also contains impressive

silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos

life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft

museum

Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the

artisans at work and the temple has its own

silver-working school where apprentices are

trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive

Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved

in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-

robed residents of the temple improve their

linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also

available

Unfortunately women are not allowed to

enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this

is explained on a sign outside the wording of

which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in

the monastic boundary many precious things

incantations amulets and other holy objects

were buried over 500 years ago Entering

inside this area may deteriorated the place or

otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most

of the interior can be appreciated from the

doorway

Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous

for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged

Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai

Due to its being less well advertised than its

neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham

is often a more peaceful temple from which

to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang

Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist

Lent when the place was alive with worshippers

Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once

the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic

giants Following a visit from the Buddha the

giants decided to mend their ways stop eating

their neighbours and convert to Buddhism

For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and

offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the

templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally

constructed towards the end of the 7th century

Although the temple fell into disrepair over the

centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered

a chamber containing a number of Buddha

images The discovery led to the revitalisation of

this mountain top temple

The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are

guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured

sword-wielding warriors The courtyard

overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and

bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of

food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the

road leading to the temple

Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-

west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek

and easily accessible by car or taxi

Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai

was being established the name translates

as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably

because it was used to cast Buddha images for

its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The

entrance to the temple is through a small but

intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos

assembly hall is notable because it is one of the

only viharns of its type constructed solely from

teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a

superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock

astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference

to the king who once used the wooden hall as

his palace The gilded image features mythical

creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured

glass

The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite

from the busy road outside Wooden boxes

contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm

leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a

large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors

Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks

like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a

small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less

imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo

temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru

recommends a quick visit if you are passing

Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous

temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi

Luang

The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the

largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it

was damaged either by an earthquake in the

16th century or cannon fire from the guns

of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese

in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO

funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps

up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga

serpents and a group of five elephants (only the

one without a trunk or ears partially survived

whatever caused the structure to collapse the

others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi

was also once home to one of the most revered

religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald

Buddha Although the original now resides in

Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and

once again looks out over the city from a niche

on the east side of the structure

Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and

now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly

hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance

is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a

great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar

housed in a building at the base of the tree

Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although

one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few

alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed

Mae Hong Son

It is said that Mae Hong Son is the

most authentic and mountainous

province of Thailand For Thai Guru a

good reason to explore this province

side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai

province

Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of

Thailand The northern most part of this

province is at a distance of 924 km from

Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province

in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son

borders Myanmar On the south and east side it

borders Tak and Chiang Mai province

We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast

on the 108 road The scenery is woody and

mountainous so far so good And as we leave

the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek

for wildlife and beautiful landscapes

The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage

is that our average speed drops to less than

15 km hour No worries when you do trips

like these the clock stops and the only thing

on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning

landscapes that unfold before your eyes

The main road is well paved But as you might

understand we regularly go off road

This is the best way to come into contact with

locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo

While we are standing somewhere taking in the

beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a

falcon calling

A short walk through the forrest the sound

stops and we decide to sit down for some

water and well earned rest After a short while I

hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo

There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters

above us a white rumped falcon

Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras

it stays there and even when we start making

noises because we want to film it in flight it

takes itrsquos time

Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of

Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They

cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more

Of course they also have their own cattle And

walking through one of their small villages they

are very friendly and hospitable

It has to be said it is never smart to enter

a community or people with your camera

as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask

the people if they mind if you taking their

photograph or want to film their daily life

In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to

the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean

and offers a nice variety food on the terrace

with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city

where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists

Really nice to stroll down the walking street and

find food or a nice souvenir People are very

friendly as usual

From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae

Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an

average speed of 15 km hour

Halfway we jump out of the car into a river

Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to

keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn

but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around

without it

Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome

us and are gladly willing to allow us to make

photographs and film them

In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early

morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises

For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum

After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark

Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon

So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team

ChinatownBangkok

Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese

people in big cities around the world

Manhattan San Francisco Manilla

Paris and Boston have them and

more keep being officially recognised

in their role as historical and touristic

center every year Even places like

Dubai and Las Vegas have modern

day versions of this phenomenon

As soon as you pass under one of the famous

large red entrance arches you arrive in a

complete different world

A world that is paradise for photographers

A couple of the photographers in the Thai

Guru team decided to spend some time in the

Bangkok version of Chinatown

If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for

some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at

Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim

Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat

SLEEPY NANA dream destination

Relatively unknown and uncrowded

Nan has it all This gem of a province

hides an abundance of cultural and

natural attractions ancient temples

pristine forests rivers mountain

peaks but what strikes you most is

its omnipresent feel of an untroubled

authentic way of life

Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings

you this genuine feel in pictures and footage

For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of

Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant

nature and the nature of its people show

Thailand - as is often said before hordes of

tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas

it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan

managed to escape this proces but will it stay

that way Nan shares most of its border with

neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening

of the border and beyond towards China it is to

be expected that it will ultimately become an

important gateway for trade and tourism

Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town

and the countryside will enchant you and the natural

cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy

for at least a couple of days The town along the banks

of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base

to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night

life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous

temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue

influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The

great surroundings can best be explored by renting a

motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo

Much of the province is devoted to farming

Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still

being practised in areas of the province resulting

in a landscape where forests and fields alternate

Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside

of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature

peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich

natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the

province sees far fewer visitors than popular

neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You

can go white water rafting on the Wa River

along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim

National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay

overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes

Touring Nan

Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern

lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities

of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old

salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via

endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges

and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with

orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers

Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready

to be harvested broke through the green hills

giving a golden hue to the landscape

We encountered friendly villagers who worked

their way through the dry fields - meanwhile

singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to

supplement their meager incomes Despite their

hardship they showed us their heartwarming

hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes

with us

This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi

Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and

sparsely populated that we only passed two

cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos

difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand

nowadays

PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river

The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness

begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over

the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above

the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is

broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices

Then the carved image of a Naga becomes

visible above the water line followed by more

than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted

in red and gold colorshellip

During the year the remote provincial town

of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a

year for the annual spectacle of traditional

Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos

water artery The finals are held over two

days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos

banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite

team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in

Thailand yet relatively unknown

The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long

simple shelters where the massive dragon boats

are housed during the year Just once a year

they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos

most important sporting and social event The

event takes place right after the end of the

rainy season around early November when

water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at

their highest The colorful races are part of the

festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the

last day of Buddhist Lent in October

The narrow boats are made from massive

hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters

in length depending how many paddlers they

are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily

distinguishable by their use of bright colors and

mythical designs in the traditional local style

The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of

each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting

only the good ones to participate in their race

How to get there

Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is

connected by plane and by bus to the rest of

the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan

Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice

each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to

Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to

Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on

the service

Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan

(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8

hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)

The contestants of the races are classified into

three categories mdashlarge medium and small

boats Depending on their length each boat can

accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers

sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the

same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously

against the current to the frantic beating of a

drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern

The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying

their attempt to reach the finish line first and

the paddles churning up the river creates a

spectacular atmosphere

Son

g K

ran

in

Ch

ian

g M

ai

Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of

the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down

in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The

days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing

steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the

hot months of April and May The stifling mid-

day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out

unless necessary The buzz around town about

some festival called Song Kran is starting to

increase an underlying excitement rising

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
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Page 11: Thaiguru issue10

During the treatment the elephantrsquos tether was lying unsecured on the floor but she stood calmly allowing

the vet to do her task even being in some discomfort It shows how trusting these animals can be with

humans The female elephant must have known that Im was there to help her

During an average day Im will treat 4 or 5 elephants usually foot injuries and other such problems as we

witnessed that morning cleaning and disinfecting wounds to prevent infection When she does have

a quieter day Imrsquos time is taken up with the general wellbeing of the elephants with nail trimming and

administrating drugs However her work isnrsquot limited to the park elephants

On occasion elephants outside the park require help so they can contact Im who will go out to the

surrounding area and provide a mobile clinic This service is provided free of charge courtesy of the park and

is a much appreciated service to the elephants who do not have a fixed home and whose mahouts cannot

otherwise afford treatment for their animals

With the sun approaching the meridian we said our farewells and headed back to town with the peace of

mind knowing that the magnificent elephants would be in the capable hands of Im the vet who cares and

treats them day to day

International Training Massage School

On a peaceful street a short walk from Chiang

Mairsquos old city is the International Training Massage

School An airy modern building in the traditional

Lanna style welcomes beginners seeking to learn

the basics of traditional Thai massage as well as

seasoned massage professionals looking to expand

their skills

Thai Guru is well used to being on the receiving

end of a skilful pair of hands of belonging to an

experienced masseuse so were pleased to be

invited to join the students at ITM to learn a bit more

about the training that is required to perform one of

the best things about living in Thailand

Chiang Mai is a mecca for those wishing to

spend a few days a few weeks or a few months

learning the art of Nuad Boran or lsquoancient

Thai Massagersquo Massage is serious business

in this part of the world and schools like ITM

tech everything from introduction courses

to advanced teacher training There are also

some quite specific classes on offer including

pregnancy massage hot stone healing massage

and infant massage

The ITM students turn up to begin their studies

early in the morning Shoes and sandals are left

outside the building next to a decorative koi

carp pond comfortable loose fitting pyjamas

are donned feet are washed and it is off to one

of the yoga studios to settle down and the first

blessing of the day Prayers are offered up by

students and teachers to Dr Shivago Komarpaj

Buddharsquos physician and the father of Thai

massage

Traditional Thai massage is practiced without

oils unguents or lotions and both giver and

receiver keep their clothes on The therapy

involves the compression rocking stretching

and manipulation of the joints and muscles

rather than the rubbing and stroking often

employed in other forms of massage

Once the prayers and blessings have been given up it is time for the students to get themselves ready for

the dayrsquos exertions by stretching To the relaxing sounds of flute music a teacher guides the trainees through

a set of yoga moves On the morning Thai Guru visited there were fifteen students being gently told to

assume the lsquosupermanrsquo and kick their legs into the air for the lsquoreverse bicyclersquo

We were informed that the combination of rhythmic stretches traditionally used by yogis and hermits (who

probably better than anyone know the importance of a good stretch) as well as warming up the studentsrsquo

bodies help the novices to understand better what they will be doing to the bodies of those they are about

to massage

A short break for coffee and bananas in a quiet courtyard watched over by a shrine to Dr Shivago and itrsquos

back to the classroom for a demonstration of the significance of some basic Nuad Boran moves The

students gather round books with detailed diagrams open on their laps to study how to perfect moves like

lsquothe flamingorsquo and lsquothe last tangorsquo among others

The founder of the school Mr Chongkol Setthakorn takes over the class for

the serious task of making sure the students have been paying attention and

arenrsquot in the process of giving each other hernias A quick prayer is said and

the real business of bending stretching and joint crunching begins

The students we met had been training for between three and four weeks

However courses at ITM and indeed at schools across Chiang Mai can be

tailored to fit the requirements of anyone who wishes to get involved in an

activity that gives enormous pleasure to both the giver and receiver - as Mr

Settakorn astutely explains ldquoThai Massage is like a thousand gentle waves

washing over the bodyrdquo

ITM ndash International Training Massage School

599 Chang Puak Road

Soi 4 Chor

Sriphum

Muang Chiang Mai

50200 THAILAND

Phone +66-5321-8632

Mobile +66-83-763-1002

Email itmitmthaimassagecom

wwwitmthaimassagecom

Krabi dream destination

After a couple of weeks traveling through

Thailand many are looking for the

perfect location to spend their last days

of their vancation Perfection doesnrsquot

exist but dream destination Krabi is gets

close

Located in the south west of Thailand

Krabi is also thanks to its airport an easy

destination to reach

You will notice the friendly atmosphere in this

area of Thailand right away

A couple of must sees like the Emerald Pond

and the Hot Waterfall are definitely worth your

visit Imagine relaxing in a the hot waterfall

under the exotic trees

And of course an island tour is a must when

you are in Krabi

By boat you can visit Por da Koh Hong Koh Kai

and the famous Pranang cave

Khao Yai National Park

Since establishing Thai Guru Magazine

we have been eager to take our

cameras to Khao Yai National Park

Having visited the area previously

I had already enjoyed the beauty

of Khao Yai and the abundance of

wildlife to be seen there and was keen

to share it with the rest of the team

Finally at the end of January we

jumped in the car for the long drive

south from

Chiang Mai

Three hours northeast of Bangkok Khao Yai

is the oldest and third largest national park

in Thailand Grasslands evergreen forests

monsoon forests and rain forests cover more

than 2000 square kilometres of this Unesco

World Heritage site

The park is teeming with wildlife Mammals

including elephant gibbon barking deer and

guar live within the parkrsquos borders The area

is also home to carnivores such as Asian wild

dogs and tigers as well as numerous reptiles and

amphibians including king cobras pythons and

monitor lizards Nearly 400 species of bird can

be found at Khao Yai Other attractions in this

trekkersrsquo paradise include several large waterfalls

The 20 metre Haew Suwat waterfall with is

deep pool was made famous by the film lsquoThe

Beachrsquo

Day 1The road leading to the gates of Khao Yai National Park is notable for its

numerous Italian influenced restaurants hotels and guesthouses A paradise

for pizza and pasta lovers there is even a small Italian-style village with ice-

cream parlours eateries and Italian themed guesthouses Almost immediately

after entering the park we were greeted by the sight of black giant squirrels

and pig tailed macaques clamouring in the canopy all around us Our first stop

was the visitor centre where we picked up a map of the park and other useful

information Outside were several sambar deer picking through restaurant

leftovers The rest of the day was spent exploring spots in which to set up

our cameras the following day We also made the first of several walks to the

observation tower adjacent to Nong Pak Chee reservoir As well as fabulous

views of the park the tower overlooks a saltlick where all manner of wildlife

gathers to suck up vital minerals and nutrients

Day 2Khao Yai is extremely popular with visitors and we could only

book lodging within its borders for the last two days of our trip

This meant an early start so we could get into the park in time to

shoot the sunrise We were the first visitors of the day and drove

to one of the places we had explored the day before We came

across what we thought was one of the many sambar or barking

deer that roam freely around the park We decided to take a

closer look only to find we had stumbled across an Asiatic black

bear half hidden in the morning mist Having spotted us after a

few minutes the handsome creature ambled off into the forest

The dawn had barely broken and our day was already a triumph

The rest of our time was spent following gibbons various varieties

deer and innumerable brightly coloured birds

Day 3Today we were fortunate to be allowed to move

ourselves and our equipment into government-

owned lodgings within the park Our first

mission was to set our cameras up at a place

where we had heard the heavy distinctive

rushing of wings and calls of hornbills (described

by some as sounding like the puffing of a steam

locomotive) the day before

We had expected a long wait but already had

our first shots of this impressive bird in the

can before breakfast We spent many hours

photographing hornbills macaque and other

wildlife

We even stumbled upon a pack of Asian wild

dogs gathered around the carcass of a recently

killed deer We thought our wildlife encounters

for the day were over as we sat down to enjoy

dinner only to be disturbed by scuffling sounds

behind our bungalow The noise was being

made by a pair of porcupines who were not in

the least afraid of us and actually attempted to

chase us away

Day 4The day was spent exploring the trails of Khao Yai and discovering among other wildlife a magnificent

crested serpent eagle As the afternoon drew to a close we decided to take one last trip to the watchtower

From here we witnessed the gathering of a large flock of hornbills We showed some of our footage to a

friendly ranger He was particularly interested in our bear shots We were thrilled to be told that it was very

rare to see a black bear even more so when we were informed that none of the rangers had seen one for

a number of months I decided to leave the tower to find a good place to photograph the sunset Within

a matter of minutes I heard someone scream ldquoBEARrdquo and was back up the stairs in seconds There below

us taking an evening stroll through the grass just metres from where we were perched was another much

younger black bear

Our trip could not have ended better Needless

to say Thai Guru thoroughly recommends a visit

to Khao Yai National Park As already mentioned

the park is popular with both local and foreign

tourists especially on holidays and weekends

We advise that you try to visit during the week

when the park is quieter and the chance of

seeing the amazing wildlife is greater

The park has two camping grounds as well as a

few bungalows that can be booked through the

Department of National Parks Wildlife and Plant

Conservation These need to be booked well

in advance However there are also plenty of

guesthouses and hotels are to be found along

the parkrsquos boundaries

Festival of LanternsThe enchanting atmosphere of Loi Krathong

The weather is cooling down and itrsquos

that time of year again when we all

take to the waterways of Thailand and

give praise to Khongkha the water

Goddess who took care of abundant

rainfall in the past raining season

Donrsquot miss this joyful celebration with

its enchanting atmosphere that brings

one and all in Thailand together

much like Songkran

Thailandrsquos lsquoFestival of Lightsrsquo is celebrated

throughout the kingdom on the night of the

November full moon The end of the rainy

season heralds the coolest months in the

countryrsquos calendar when the river waters are

also supposed to be at their highest

Superstition replaces religion on this night as

thousands flock to the banks of the swollen

rivers and canals to release khratongs floating

tributes to the river spirits and Mother Water ndash

Phra Mae Khongkha In recent years the festival

has been revived in the ancient temples of

Thailandrsquos former capital Sukhothai

Visitors assemble in the Sukhothai Historical

Park with their banana leaf khratongs decorated

with flowers incense sticks and candles to take

part in a ceremony that dates back centuries

Sometimes a coin is added as gift to the spirits

The pretty rafts are then released onto the lake

with a wish

It was once believed that Loi Khratong

was actually created in Sukhothai by Nang

Nopphamas a lady of the court and consort

of the king In fact the celebration was adapted

by Thai Buddhists from a Brahmanical festival

adapted to honour Buddha

The khratong is meant to be a light on the

darkness of the water for Buddha A personrsquos

sins and negative thoughts are also believed to

float away with the colourful little raft Try adding

a lock of your hair for extra luck

Nearly 20 of the Northern provinces will be

showing off a dazzling selection of floats in the

Royal Khratongs Procession as well as holding a

Miss Nopphamat beauty contest

A competition is held for the most beautifully

designed khratong as well as plenty of other

Sukhothai arts and cultural performances

The Light-and-Sound Presentation at Wat

Mahathat explains the history and origins of

Sukhothai and Loi Khratong through dance

music prayer combat displays light effects and

fireworks No Loi Khratong would be complete

without fireworks and thankfully the Thais are

not shy when it comes to blowing things up in

the sky

Tra Kuan pond is the place to be for the floating

of the Royal Khratongs followed by more

firmament-filling pyrotechnics Wat Chana

Songkram is the venue for the Mahachat

sermon Khon Marked Dance and a Thai

classical music performance

Thai Guru decided to travel from Chiang Mai

to Sukhotai for this yearrsquos festivities Although

the heavens decided to open for most of the

celebrations on the final day the rain could not

dampen the celebrations and the spectacle was

jaw dropping

The only thing that was missing due to the rain

was a sky filled with khom loi the sky lanterns

usually released into the firmament in their

hundreds

Although the festivities officially last for the best

part of a week it is the last three days that are

the busiest

Visitors can join in with a range of activities

including fruit carving or just wander around the

historic park listening to live traditional music

watching Thai martial arts or join the parade

of dancers musicians and beauty contestants

all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured

costumes

There are numerous places to stay for the

duration of the festival but it is advisable to

book ahead if you can because this is a very

popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north

from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai Temples

A visit to a temple in Thailand is

unavoidable They are everywhere

We at Thai Guru are well aware that

because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can

quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang

Mai With this in mind (and because

the city is overflowing with hundreds

of them) we have chosen a few of

our favourites we hope are slightly

alternative to the ones on the usual

tourist itinerary

Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to

the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its

latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of

the skills of the local silversmiths Like many

of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was

established several centuries ago The ubosoth

or ordination hall is an intricately designed

silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in

the sunlight

The area around Wua Lai has been the home to

silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past

couple of centuries who are famed throughout

the kingdom for creating detailed embossed

relief patterns on the objects they create

something that is immediately evident and

celebrated at Wat Srisuphan

The larger more traditionally decorated red blue

and gold prayer hall also contains impressive

silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos

life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft

museum

Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the

artisans at work and the temple has its own

silver-working school where apprentices are

trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive

Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved

in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-

robed residents of the temple improve their

linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also

available

Unfortunately women are not allowed to

enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this

is explained on a sign outside the wording of

which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in

the monastic boundary many precious things

incantations amulets and other holy objects

were buried over 500 years ago Entering

inside this area may deteriorated the place or

otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most

of the interior can be appreciated from the

doorway

Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous

for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged

Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai

Due to its being less well advertised than its

neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham

is often a more peaceful temple from which

to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang

Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist

Lent when the place was alive with worshippers

Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once

the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic

giants Following a visit from the Buddha the

giants decided to mend their ways stop eating

their neighbours and convert to Buddhism

For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and

offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the

templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally

constructed towards the end of the 7th century

Although the temple fell into disrepair over the

centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered

a chamber containing a number of Buddha

images The discovery led to the revitalisation of

this mountain top temple

The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are

guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured

sword-wielding warriors The courtyard

overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and

bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of

food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the

road leading to the temple

Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-

west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek

and easily accessible by car or taxi

Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai

was being established the name translates

as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably

because it was used to cast Buddha images for

its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The

entrance to the temple is through a small but

intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos

assembly hall is notable because it is one of the

only viharns of its type constructed solely from

teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a

superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock

astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference

to the king who once used the wooden hall as

his palace The gilded image features mythical

creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured

glass

The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite

from the busy road outside Wooden boxes

contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm

leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a

large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors

Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks

like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a

small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less

imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo

temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru

recommends a quick visit if you are passing

Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous

temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi

Luang

The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the

largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it

was damaged either by an earthquake in the

16th century or cannon fire from the guns

of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese

in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO

funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps

up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga

serpents and a group of five elephants (only the

one without a trunk or ears partially survived

whatever caused the structure to collapse the

others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi

was also once home to one of the most revered

religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald

Buddha Although the original now resides in

Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and

once again looks out over the city from a niche

on the east side of the structure

Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and

now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly

hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance

is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a

great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar

housed in a building at the base of the tree

Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although

one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few

alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed

Mae Hong Son

It is said that Mae Hong Son is the

most authentic and mountainous

province of Thailand For Thai Guru a

good reason to explore this province

side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai

province

Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of

Thailand The northern most part of this

province is at a distance of 924 km from

Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province

in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son

borders Myanmar On the south and east side it

borders Tak and Chiang Mai province

We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast

on the 108 road The scenery is woody and

mountainous so far so good And as we leave

the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek

for wildlife and beautiful landscapes

The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage

is that our average speed drops to less than

15 km hour No worries when you do trips

like these the clock stops and the only thing

on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning

landscapes that unfold before your eyes

The main road is well paved But as you might

understand we regularly go off road

This is the best way to come into contact with

locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo

While we are standing somewhere taking in the

beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a

falcon calling

A short walk through the forrest the sound

stops and we decide to sit down for some

water and well earned rest After a short while I

hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo

There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters

above us a white rumped falcon

Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras

it stays there and even when we start making

noises because we want to film it in flight it

takes itrsquos time

Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of

Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They

cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more

Of course they also have their own cattle And

walking through one of their small villages they

are very friendly and hospitable

It has to be said it is never smart to enter

a community or people with your camera

as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask

the people if they mind if you taking their

photograph or want to film their daily life

In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to

the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean

and offers a nice variety food on the terrace

with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city

where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists

Really nice to stroll down the walking street and

find food or a nice souvenir People are very

friendly as usual

From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae

Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an

average speed of 15 km hour

Halfway we jump out of the car into a river

Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to

keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn

but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around

without it

Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome

us and are gladly willing to allow us to make

photographs and film them

In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early

morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises

For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum

After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark

Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon

So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team

ChinatownBangkok

Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese

people in big cities around the world

Manhattan San Francisco Manilla

Paris and Boston have them and

more keep being officially recognised

in their role as historical and touristic

center every year Even places like

Dubai and Las Vegas have modern

day versions of this phenomenon

As soon as you pass under one of the famous

large red entrance arches you arrive in a

complete different world

A world that is paradise for photographers

A couple of the photographers in the Thai

Guru team decided to spend some time in the

Bangkok version of Chinatown

If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for

some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at

Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim

Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat

SLEEPY NANA dream destination

Relatively unknown and uncrowded

Nan has it all This gem of a province

hides an abundance of cultural and

natural attractions ancient temples

pristine forests rivers mountain

peaks but what strikes you most is

its omnipresent feel of an untroubled

authentic way of life

Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings

you this genuine feel in pictures and footage

For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of

Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant

nature and the nature of its people show

Thailand - as is often said before hordes of

tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas

it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan

managed to escape this proces but will it stay

that way Nan shares most of its border with

neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening

of the border and beyond towards China it is to

be expected that it will ultimately become an

important gateway for trade and tourism

Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town

and the countryside will enchant you and the natural

cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy

for at least a couple of days The town along the banks

of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base

to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night

life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous

temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue

influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The

great surroundings can best be explored by renting a

motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo

Much of the province is devoted to farming

Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still

being practised in areas of the province resulting

in a landscape where forests and fields alternate

Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside

of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature

peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich

natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the

province sees far fewer visitors than popular

neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You

can go white water rafting on the Wa River

along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim

National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay

overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes

Touring Nan

Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern

lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities

of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old

salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via

endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges

and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with

orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers

Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready

to be harvested broke through the green hills

giving a golden hue to the landscape

We encountered friendly villagers who worked

their way through the dry fields - meanwhile

singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to

supplement their meager incomes Despite their

hardship they showed us their heartwarming

hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes

with us

This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi

Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and

sparsely populated that we only passed two

cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos

difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand

nowadays

PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river

The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness

begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over

the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above

the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is

broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices

Then the carved image of a Naga becomes

visible above the water line followed by more

than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted

in red and gold colorshellip

During the year the remote provincial town

of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a

year for the annual spectacle of traditional

Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos

water artery The finals are held over two

days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos

banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite

team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in

Thailand yet relatively unknown

The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long

simple shelters where the massive dragon boats

are housed during the year Just once a year

they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos

most important sporting and social event The

event takes place right after the end of the

rainy season around early November when

water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at

their highest The colorful races are part of the

festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the

last day of Buddhist Lent in October

The narrow boats are made from massive

hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters

in length depending how many paddlers they

are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily

distinguishable by their use of bright colors and

mythical designs in the traditional local style

The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of

each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting

only the good ones to participate in their race

How to get there

Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is

connected by plane and by bus to the rest of

the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan

Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice

each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to

Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to

Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on

the service

Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan

(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8

hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)

The contestants of the races are classified into

three categories mdashlarge medium and small

boats Depending on their length each boat can

accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers

sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the

same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously

against the current to the frantic beating of a

drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern

The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying

their attempt to reach the finish line first and

the paddles churning up the river creates a

spectacular atmosphere

Son

g K

ran

in

Ch

ian

g M

ai

Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of

the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down

in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The

days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing

steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the

hot months of April and May The stifling mid-

day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out

unless necessary The buzz around town about

some festival called Song Kran is starting to

increase an underlying excitement rising

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

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To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

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The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

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These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

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Page 12: Thaiguru issue10

On occasion elephants outside the park require help so they can contact Im who will go out to the

surrounding area and provide a mobile clinic This service is provided free of charge courtesy of the park and

is a much appreciated service to the elephants who do not have a fixed home and whose mahouts cannot

otherwise afford treatment for their animals

With the sun approaching the meridian we said our farewells and headed back to town with the peace of

mind knowing that the magnificent elephants would be in the capable hands of Im the vet who cares and

treats them day to day

International Training Massage School

On a peaceful street a short walk from Chiang

Mairsquos old city is the International Training Massage

School An airy modern building in the traditional

Lanna style welcomes beginners seeking to learn

the basics of traditional Thai massage as well as

seasoned massage professionals looking to expand

their skills

Thai Guru is well used to being on the receiving

end of a skilful pair of hands of belonging to an

experienced masseuse so were pleased to be

invited to join the students at ITM to learn a bit more

about the training that is required to perform one of

the best things about living in Thailand

Chiang Mai is a mecca for those wishing to

spend a few days a few weeks or a few months

learning the art of Nuad Boran or lsquoancient

Thai Massagersquo Massage is serious business

in this part of the world and schools like ITM

tech everything from introduction courses

to advanced teacher training There are also

some quite specific classes on offer including

pregnancy massage hot stone healing massage

and infant massage

The ITM students turn up to begin their studies

early in the morning Shoes and sandals are left

outside the building next to a decorative koi

carp pond comfortable loose fitting pyjamas

are donned feet are washed and it is off to one

of the yoga studios to settle down and the first

blessing of the day Prayers are offered up by

students and teachers to Dr Shivago Komarpaj

Buddharsquos physician and the father of Thai

massage

Traditional Thai massage is practiced without

oils unguents or lotions and both giver and

receiver keep their clothes on The therapy

involves the compression rocking stretching

and manipulation of the joints and muscles

rather than the rubbing and stroking often

employed in other forms of massage

Once the prayers and blessings have been given up it is time for the students to get themselves ready for

the dayrsquos exertions by stretching To the relaxing sounds of flute music a teacher guides the trainees through

a set of yoga moves On the morning Thai Guru visited there were fifteen students being gently told to

assume the lsquosupermanrsquo and kick their legs into the air for the lsquoreverse bicyclersquo

We were informed that the combination of rhythmic stretches traditionally used by yogis and hermits (who

probably better than anyone know the importance of a good stretch) as well as warming up the studentsrsquo

bodies help the novices to understand better what they will be doing to the bodies of those they are about

to massage

A short break for coffee and bananas in a quiet courtyard watched over by a shrine to Dr Shivago and itrsquos

back to the classroom for a demonstration of the significance of some basic Nuad Boran moves The

students gather round books with detailed diagrams open on their laps to study how to perfect moves like

lsquothe flamingorsquo and lsquothe last tangorsquo among others

The founder of the school Mr Chongkol Setthakorn takes over the class for

the serious task of making sure the students have been paying attention and

arenrsquot in the process of giving each other hernias A quick prayer is said and

the real business of bending stretching and joint crunching begins

The students we met had been training for between three and four weeks

However courses at ITM and indeed at schools across Chiang Mai can be

tailored to fit the requirements of anyone who wishes to get involved in an

activity that gives enormous pleasure to both the giver and receiver - as Mr

Settakorn astutely explains ldquoThai Massage is like a thousand gentle waves

washing over the bodyrdquo

ITM ndash International Training Massage School

599 Chang Puak Road

Soi 4 Chor

Sriphum

Muang Chiang Mai

50200 THAILAND

Phone +66-5321-8632

Mobile +66-83-763-1002

Email itmitmthaimassagecom

wwwitmthaimassagecom

Krabi dream destination

After a couple of weeks traveling through

Thailand many are looking for the

perfect location to spend their last days

of their vancation Perfection doesnrsquot

exist but dream destination Krabi is gets

close

Located in the south west of Thailand

Krabi is also thanks to its airport an easy

destination to reach

You will notice the friendly atmosphere in this

area of Thailand right away

A couple of must sees like the Emerald Pond

and the Hot Waterfall are definitely worth your

visit Imagine relaxing in a the hot waterfall

under the exotic trees

And of course an island tour is a must when

you are in Krabi

By boat you can visit Por da Koh Hong Koh Kai

and the famous Pranang cave

Khao Yai National Park

Since establishing Thai Guru Magazine

we have been eager to take our

cameras to Khao Yai National Park

Having visited the area previously

I had already enjoyed the beauty

of Khao Yai and the abundance of

wildlife to be seen there and was keen

to share it with the rest of the team

Finally at the end of January we

jumped in the car for the long drive

south from

Chiang Mai

Three hours northeast of Bangkok Khao Yai

is the oldest and third largest national park

in Thailand Grasslands evergreen forests

monsoon forests and rain forests cover more

than 2000 square kilometres of this Unesco

World Heritage site

The park is teeming with wildlife Mammals

including elephant gibbon barking deer and

guar live within the parkrsquos borders The area

is also home to carnivores such as Asian wild

dogs and tigers as well as numerous reptiles and

amphibians including king cobras pythons and

monitor lizards Nearly 400 species of bird can

be found at Khao Yai Other attractions in this

trekkersrsquo paradise include several large waterfalls

The 20 metre Haew Suwat waterfall with is

deep pool was made famous by the film lsquoThe

Beachrsquo

Day 1The road leading to the gates of Khao Yai National Park is notable for its

numerous Italian influenced restaurants hotels and guesthouses A paradise

for pizza and pasta lovers there is even a small Italian-style village with ice-

cream parlours eateries and Italian themed guesthouses Almost immediately

after entering the park we were greeted by the sight of black giant squirrels

and pig tailed macaques clamouring in the canopy all around us Our first stop

was the visitor centre where we picked up a map of the park and other useful

information Outside were several sambar deer picking through restaurant

leftovers The rest of the day was spent exploring spots in which to set up

our cameras the following day We also made the first of several walks to the

observation tower adjacent to Nong Pak Chee reservoir As well as fabulous

views of the park the tower overlooks a saltlick where all manner of wildlife

gathers to suck up vital minerals and nutrients

Day 2Khao Yai is extremely popular with visitors and we could only

book lodging within its borders for the last two days of our trip

This meant an early start so we could get into the park in time to

shoot the sunrise We were the first visitors of the day and drove

to one of the places we had explored the day before We came

across what we thought was one of the many sambar or barking

deer that roam freely around the park We decided to take a

closer look only to find we had stumbled across an Asiatic black

bear half hidden in the morning mist Having spotted us after a

few minutes the handsome creature ambled off into the forest

The dawn had barely broken and our day was already a triumph

The rest of our time was spent following gibbons various varieties

deer and innumerable brightly coloured birds

Day 3Today we were fortunate to be allowed to move

ourselves and our equipment into government-

owned lodgings within the park Our first

mission was to set our cameras up at a place

where we had heard the heavy distinctive

rushing of wings and calls of hornbills (described

by some as sounding like the puffing of a steam

locomotive) the day before

We had expected a long wait but already had

our first shots of this impressive bird in the

can before breakfast We spent many hours

photographing hornbills macaque and other

wildlife

We even stumbled upon a pack of Asian wild

dogs gathered around the carcass of a recently

killed deer We thought our wildlife encounters

for the day were over as we sat down to enjoy

dinner only to be disturbed by scuffling sounds

behind our bungalow The noise was being

made by a pair of porcupines who were not in

the least afraid of us and actually attempted to

chase us away

Day 4The day was spent exploring the trails of Khao Yai and discovering among other wildlife a magnificent

crested serpent eagle As the afternoon drew to a close we decided to take one last trip to the watchtower

From here we witnessed the gathering of a large flock of hornbills We showed some of our footage to a

friendly ranger He was particularly interested in our bear shots We were thrilled to be told that it was very

rare to see a black bear even more so when we were informed that none of the rangers had seen one for

a number of months I decided to leave the tower to find a good place to photograph the sunset Within

a matter of minutes I heard someone scream ldquoBEARrdquo and was back up the stairs in seconds There below

us taking an evening stroll through the grass just metres from where we were perched was another much

younger black bear

Our trip could not have ended better Needless

to say Thai Guru thoroughly recommends a visit

to Khao Yai National Park As already mentioned

the park is popular with both local and foreign

tourists especially on holidays and weekends

We advise that you try to visit during the week

when the park is quieter and the chance of

seeing the amazing wildlife is greater

The park has two camping grounds as well as a

few bungalows that can be booked through the

Department of National Parks Wildlife and Plant

Conservation These need to be booked well

in advance However there are also plenty of

guesthouses and hotels are to be found along

the parkrsquos boundaries

Festival of LanternsThe enchanting atmosphere of Loi Krathong

The weather is cooling down and itrsquos

that time of year again when we all

take to the waterways of Thailand and

give praise to Khongkha the water

Goddess who took care of abundant

rainfall in the past raining season

Donrsquot miss this joyful celebration with

its enchanting atmosphere that brings

one and all in Thailand together

much like Songkran

Thailandrsquos lsquoFestival of Lightsrsquo is celebrated

throughout the kingdom on the night of the

November full moon The end of the rainy

season heralds the coolest months in the

countryrsquos calendar when the river waters are

also supposed to be at their highest

Superstition replaces religion on this night as

thousands flock to the banks of the swollen

rivers and canals to release khratongs floating

tributes to the river spirits and Mother Water ndash

Phra Mae Khongkha In recent years the festival

has been revived in the ancient temples of

Thailandrsquos former capital Sukhothai

Visitors assemble in the Sukhothai Historical

Park with their banana leaf khratongs decorated

with flowers incense sticks and candles to take

part in a ceremony that dates back centuries

Sometimes a coin is added as gift to the spirits

The pretty rafts are then released onto the lake

with a wish

It was once believed that Loi Khratong

was actually created in Sukhothai by Nang

Nopphamas a lady of the court and consort

of the king In fact the celebration was adapted

by Thai Buddhists from a Brahmanical festival

adapted to honour Buddha

The khratong is meant to be a light on the

darkness of the water for Buddha A personrsquos

sins and negative thoughts are also believed to

float away with the colourful little raft Try adding

a lock of your hair for extra luck

Nearly 20 of the Northern provinces will be

showing off a dazzling selection of floats in the

Royal Khratongs Procession as well as holding a

Miss Nopphamat beauty contest

A competition is held for the most beautifully

designed khratong as well as plenty of other

Sukhothai arts and cultural performances

The Light-and-Sound Presentation at Wat

Mahathat explains the history and origins of

Sukhothai and Loi Khratong through dance

music prayer combat displays light effects and

fireworks No Loi Khratong would be complete

without fireworks and thankfully the Thais are

not shy when it comes to blowing things up in

the sky

Tra Kuan pond is the place to be for the floating

of the Royal Khratongs followed by more

firmament-filling pyrotechnics Wat Chana

Songkram is the venue for the Mahachat

sermon Khon Marked Dance and a Thai

classical music performance

Thai Guru decided to travel from Chiang Mai

to Sukhotai for this yearrsquos festivities Although

the heavens decided to open for most of the

celebrations on the final day the rain could not

dampen the celebrations and the spectacle was

jaw dropping

The only thing that was missing due to the rain

was a sky filled with khom loi the sky lanterns

usually released into the firmament in their

hundreds

Although the festivities officially last for the best

part of a week it is the last three days that are

the busiest

Visitors can join in with a range of activities

including fruit carving or just wander around the

historic park listening to live traditional music

watching Thai martial arts or join the parade

of dancers musicians and beauty contestants

all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured

costumes

There are numerous places to stay for the

duration of the festival but it is advisable to

book ahead if you can because this is a very

popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north

from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai Temples

A visit to a temple in Thailand is

unavoidable They are everywhere

We at Thai Guru are well aware that

because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can

quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang

Mai With this in mind (and because

the city is overflowing with hundreds

of them) we have chosen a few of

our favourites we hope are slightly

alternative to the ones on the usual

tourist itinerary

Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to

the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its

latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of

the skills of the local silversmiths Like many

of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was

established several centuries ago The ubosoth

or ordination hall is an intricately designed

silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in

the sunlight

The area around Wua Lai has been the home to

silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past

couple of centuries who are famed throughout

the kingdom for creating detailed embossed

relief patterns on the objects they create

something that is immediately evident and

celebrated at Wat Srisuphan

The larger more traditionally decorated red blue

and gold prayer hall also contains impressive

silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos

life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft

museum

Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the

artisans at work and the temple has its own

silver-working school where apprentices are

trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive

Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved

in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-

robed residents of the temple improve their

linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also

available

Unfortunately women are not allowed to

enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this

is explained on a sign outside the wording of

which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in

the monastic boundary many precious things

incantations amulets and other holy objects

were buried over 500 years ago Entering

inside this area may deteriorated the place or

otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most

of the interior can be appreciated from the

doorway

Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous

for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged

Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai

Due to its being less well advertised than its

neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham

is often a more peaceful temple from which

to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang

Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist

Lent when the place was alive with worshippers

Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once

the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic

giants Following a visit from the Buddha the

giants decided to mend their ways stop eating

their neighbours and convert to Buddhism

For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and

offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the

templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally

constructed towards the end of the 7th century

Although the temple fell into disrepair over the

centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered

a chamber containing a number of Buddha

images The discovery led to the revitalisation of

this mountain top temple

The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are

guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured

sword-wielding warriors The courtyard

overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and

bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of

food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the

road leading to the temple

Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-

west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek

and easily accessible by car or taxi

Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai

was being established the name translates

as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably

because it was used to cast Buddha images for

its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The

entrance to the temple is through a small but

intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos

assembly hall is notable because it is one of the

only viharns of its type constructed solely from

teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a

superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock

astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference

to the king who once used the wooden hall as

his palace The gilded image features mythical

creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured

glass

The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite

from the busy road outside Wooden boxes

contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm

leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a

large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors

Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks

like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a

small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less

imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo

temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru

recommends a quick visit if you are passing

Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous

temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi

Luang

The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the

largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it

was damaged either by an earthquake in the

16th century or cannon fire from the guns

of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese

in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO

funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps

up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga

serpents and a group of five elephants (only the

one without a trunk or ears partially survived

whatever caused the structure to collapse the

others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi

was also once home to one of the most revered

religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald

Buddha Although the original now resides in

Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and

once again looks out over the city from a niche

on the east side of the structure

Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and

now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly

hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance

is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a

great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar

housed in a building at the base of the tree

Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although

one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few

alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed

Mae Hong Son

It is said that Mae Hong Son is the

most authentic and mountainous

province of Thailand For Thai Guru a

good reason to explore this province

side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai

province

Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of

Thailand The northern most part of this

province is at a distance of 924 km from

Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province

in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son

borders Myanmar On the south and east side it

borders Tak and Chiang Mai province

We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast

on the 108 road The scenery is woody and

mountainous so far so good And as we leave

the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek

for wildlife and beautiful landscapes

The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage

is that our average speed drops to less than

15 km hour No worries when you do trips

like these the clock stops and the only thing

on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning

landscapes that unfold before your eyes

The main road is well paved But as you might

understand we regularly go off road

This is the best way to come into contact with

locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo

While we are standing somewhere taking in the

beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a

falcon calling

A short walk through the forrest the sound

stops and we decide to sit down for some

water and well earned rest After a short while I

hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo

There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters

above us a white rumped falcon

Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras

it stays there and even when we start making

noises because we want to film it in flight it

takes itrsquos time

Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of

Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They

cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more

Of course they also have their own cattle And

walking through one of their small villages they

are very friendly and hospitable

It has to be said it is never smart to enter

a community or people with your camera

as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask

the people if they mind if you taking their

photograph or want to film their daily life

In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to

the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean

and offers a nice variety food on the terrace

with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city

where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists

Really nice to stroll down the walking street and

find food or a nice souvenir People are very

friendly as usual

From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae

Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an

average speed of 15 km hour

Halfway we jump out of the car into a river

Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to

keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn

but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around

without it

Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome

us and are gladly willing to allow us to make

photographs and film them

In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early

morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises

For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum

After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark

Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon

So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team

ChinatownBangkok

Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese

people in big cities around the world

Manhattan San Francisco Manilla

Paris and Boston have them and

more keep being officially recognised

in their role as historical and touristic

center every year Even places like

Dubai and Las Vegas have modern

day versions of this phenomenon

As soon as you pass under one of the famous

large red entrance arches you arrive in a

complete different world

A world that is paradise for photographers

A couple of the photographers in the Thai

Guru team decided to spend some time in the

Bangkok version of Chinatown

If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for

some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at

Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim

Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat

SLEEPY NANA dream destination

Relatively unknown and uncrowded

Nan has it all This gem of a province

hides an abundance of cultural and

natural attractions ancient temples

pristine forests rivers mountain

peaks but what strikes you most is

its omnipresent feel of an untroubled

authentic way of life

Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings

you this genuine feel in pictures and footage

For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of

Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant

nature and the nature of its people show

Thailand - as is often said before hordes of

tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas

it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan

managed to escape this proces but will it stay

that way Nan shares most of its border with

neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening

of the border and beyond towards China it is to

be expected that it will ultimately become an

important gateway for trade and tourism

Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town

and the countryside will enchant you and the natural

cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy

for at least a couple of days The town along the banks

of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base

to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night

life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous

temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue

influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The

great surroundings can best be explored by renting a

motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo

Much of the province is devoted to farming

Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still

being practised in areas of the province resulting

in a landscape where forests and fields alternate

Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside

of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature

peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich

natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the

province sees far fewer visitors than popular

neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You

can go white water rafting on the Wa River

along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim

National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay

overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes

Touring Nan

Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern

lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities

of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old

salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via

endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges

and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with

orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers

Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready

to be harvested broke through the green hills

giving a golden hue to the landscape

We encountered friendly villagers who worked

their way through the dry fields - meanwhile

singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to

supplement their meager incomes Despite their

hardship they showed us their heartwarming

hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes

with us

This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi

Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and

sparsely populated that we only passed two

cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos

difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand

nowadays

PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river

The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness

begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over

the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above

the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is

broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices

Then the carved image of a Naga becomes

visible above the water line followed by more

than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted

in red and gold colorshellip

During the year the remote provincial town

of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a

year for the annual spectacle of traditional

Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos

water artery The finals are held over two

days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos

banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite

team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in

Thailand yet relatively unknown

The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long

simple shelters where the massive dragon boats

are housed during the year Just once a year

they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos

most important sporting and social event The

event takes place right after the end of the

rainy season around early November when

water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at

their highest The colorful races are part of the

festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the

last day of Buddhist Lent in October

The narrow boats are made from massive

hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters

in length depending how many paddlers they

are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily

distinguishable by their use of bright colors and

mythical designs in the traditional local style

The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of

each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting

only the good ones to participate in their race

How to get there

Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is

connected by plane and by bus to the rest of

the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan

Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice

each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to

Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to

Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on

the service

Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan

(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8

hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)

The contestants of the races are classified into

three categories mdashlarge medium and small

boats Depending on their length each boat can

accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers

sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the

same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously

against the current to the frantic beating of a

drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern

The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying

their attempt to reach the finish line first and

the paddles churning up the river creates a

spectacular atmosphere

Son

g K

ran

in

Ch

ian

g M

ai

Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of

the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down

in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The

days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing

steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the

hot months of April and May The stifling mid-

day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out

unless necessary The buzz around town about

some festival called Song Kran is starting to

increase an underlying excitement rising

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
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Page 13: Thaiguru issue10

International Training Massage School

On a peaceful street a short walk from Chiang

Mairsquos old city is the International Training Massage

School An airy modern building in the traditional

Lanna style welcomes beginners seeking to learn

the basics of traditional Thai massage as well as

seasoned massage professionals looking to expand

their skills

Thai Guru is well used to being on the receiving

end of a skilful pair of hands of belonging to an

experienced masseuse so were pleased to be

invited to join the students at ITM to learn a bit more

about the training that is required to perform one of

the best things about living in Thailand

Chiang Mai is a mecca for those wishing to

spend a few days a few weeks or a few months

learning the art of Nuad Boran or lsquoancient

Thai Massagersquo Massage is serious business

in this part of the world and schools like ITM

tech everything from introduction courses

to advanced teacher training There are also

some quite specific classes on offer including

pregnancy massage hot stone healing massage

and infant massage

The ITM students turn up to begin their studies

early in the morning Shoes and sandals are left

outside the building next to a decorative koi

carp pond comfortable loose fitting pyjamas

are donned feet are washed and it is off to one

of the yoga studios to settle down and the first

blessing of the day Prayers are offered up by

students and teachers to Dr Shivago Komarpaj

Buddharsquos physician and the father of Thai

massage

Traditional Thai massage is practiced without

oils unguents or lotions and both giver and

receiver keep their clothes on The therapy

involves the compression rocking stretching

and manipulation of the joints and muscles

rather than the rubbing and stroking often

employed in other forms of massage

Once the prayers and blessings have been given up it is time for the students to get themselves ready for

the dayrsquos exertions by stretching To the relaxing sounds of flute music a teacher guides the trainees through

a set of yoga moves On the morning Thai Guru visited there were fifteen students being gently told to

assume the lsquosupermanrsquo and kick their legs into the air for the lsquoreverse bicyclersquo

We were informed that the combination of rhythmic stretches traditionally used by yogis and hermits (who

probably better than anyone know the importance of a good stretch) as well as warming up the studentsrsquo

bodies help the novices to understand better what they will be doing to the bodies of those they are about

to massage

A short break for coffee and bananas in a quiet courtyard watched over by a shrine to Dr Shivago and itrsquos

back to the classroom for a demonstration of the significance of some basic Nuad Boran moves The

students gather round books with detailed diagrams open on their laps to study how to perfect moves like

lsquothe flamingorsquo and lsquothe last tangorsquo among others

The founder of the school Mr Chongkol Setthakorn takes over the class for

the serious task of making sure the students have been paying attention and

arenrsquot in the process of giving each other hernias A quick prayer is said and

the real business of bending stretching and joint crunching begins

The students we met had been training for between three and four weeks

However courses at ITM and indeed at schools across Chiang Mai can be

tailored to fit the requirements of anyone who wishes to get involved in an

activity that gives enormous pleasure to both the giver and receiver - as Mr

Settakorn astutely explains ldquoThai Massage is like a thousand gentle waves

washing over the bodyrdquo

ITM ndash International Training Massage School

599 Chang Puak Road

Soi 4 Chor

Sriphum

Muang Chiang Mai

50200 THAILAND

Phone +66-5321-8632

Mobile +66-83-763-1002

Email itmitmthaimassagecom

wwwitmthaimassagecom

Krabi dream destination

After a couple of weeks traveling through

Thailand many are looking for the

perfect location to spend their last days

of their vancation Perfection doesnrsquot

exist but dream destination Krabi is gets

close

Located in the south west of Thailand

Krabi is also thanks to its airport an easy

destination to reach

You will notice the friendly atmosphere in this

area of Thailand right away

A couple of must sees like the Emerald Pond

and the Hot Waterfall are definitely worth your

visit Imagine relaxing in a the hot waterfall

under the exotic trees

And of course an island tour is a must when

you are in Krabi

By boat you can visit Por da Koh Hong Koh Kai

and the famous Pranang cave

Khao Yai National Park

Since establishing Thai Guru Magazine

we have been eager to take our

cameras to Khao Yai National Park

Having visited the area previously

I had already enjoyed the beauty

of Khao Yai and the abundance of

wildlife to be seen there and was keen

to share it with the rest of the team

Finally at the end of January we

jumped in the car for the long drive

south from

Chiang Mai

Three hours northeast of Bangkok Khao Yai

is the oldest and third largest national park

in Thailand Grasslands evergreen forests

monsoon forests and rain forests cover more

than 2000 square kilometres of this Unesco

World Heritage site

The park is teeming with wildlife Mammals

including elephant gibbon barking deer and

guar live within the parkrsquos borders The area

is also home to carnivores such as Asian wild

dogs and tigers as well as numerous reptiles and

amphibians including king cobras pythons and

monitor lizards Nearly 400 species of bird can

be found at Khao Yai Other attractions in this

trekkersrsquo paradise include several large waterfalls

The 20 metre Haew Suwat waterfall with is

deep pool was made famous by the film lsquoThe

Beachrsquo

Day 1The road leading to the gates of Khao Yai National Park is notable for its

numerous Italian influenced restaurants hotels and guesthouses A paradise

for pizza and pasta lovers there is even a small Italian-style village with ice-

cream parlours eateries and Italian themed guesthouses Almost immediately

after entering the park we were greeted by the sight of black giant squirrels

and pig tailed macaques clamouring in the canopy all around us Our first stop

was the visitor centre where we picked up a map of the park and other useful

information Outside were several sambar deer picking through restaurant

leftovers The rest of the day was spent exploring spots in which to set up

our cameras the following day We also made the first of several walks to the

observation tower adjacent to Nong Pak Chee reservoir As well as fabulous

views of the park the tower overlooks a saltlick where all manner of wildlife

gathers to suck up vital minerals and nutrients

Day 2Khao Yai is extremely popular with visitors and we could only

book lodging within its borders for the last two days of our trip

This meant an early start so we could get into the park in time to

shoot the sunrise We were the first visitors of the day and drove

to one of the places we had explored the day before We came

across what we thought was one of the many sambar or barking

deer that roam freely around the park We decided to take a

closer look only to find we had stumbled across an Asiatic black

bear half hidden in the morning mist Having spotted us after a

few minutes the handsome creature ambled off into the forest

The dawn had barely broken and our day was already a triumph

The rest of our time was spent following gibbons various varieties

deer and innumerable brightly coloured birds

Day 3Today we were fortunate to be allowed to move

ourselves and our equipment into government-

owned lodgings within the park Our first

mission was to set our cameras up at a place

where we had heard the heavy distinctive

rushing of wings and calls of hornbills (described

by some as sounding like the puffing of a steam

locomotive) the day before

We had expected a long wait but already had

our first shots of this impressive bird in the

can before breakfast We spent many hours

photographing hornbills macaque and other

wildlife

We even stumbled upon a pack of Asian wild

dogs gathered around the carcass of a recently

killed deer We thought our wildlife encounters

for the day were over as we sat down to enjoy

dinner only to be disturbed by scuffling sounds

behind our bungalow The noise was being

made by a pair of porcupines who were not in

the least afraid of us and actually attempted to

chase us away

Day 4The day was spent exploring the trails of Khao Yai and discovering among other wildlife a magnificent

crested serpent eagle As the afternoon drew to a close we decided to take one last trip to the watchtower

From here we witnessed the gathering of a large flock of hornbills We showed some of our footage to a

friendly ranger He was particularly interested in our bear shots We were thrilled to be told that it was very

rare to see a black bear even more so when we were informed that none of the rangers had seen one for

a number of months I decided to leave the tower to find a good place to photograph the sunset Within

a matter of minutes I heard someone scream ldquoBEARrdquo and was back up the stairs in seconds There below

us taking an evening stroll through the grass just metres from where we were perched was another much

younger black bear

Our trip could not have ended better Needless

to say Thai Guru thoroughly recommends a visit

to Khao Yai National Park As already mentioned

the park is popular with both local and foreign

tourists especially on holidays and weekends

We advise that you try to visit during the week

when the park is quieter and the chance of

seeing the amazing wildlife is greater

The park has two camping grounds as well as a

few bungalows that can be booked through the

Department of National Parks Wildlife and Plant

Conservation These need to be booked well

in advance However there are also plenty of

guesthouses and hotels are to be found along

the parkrsquos boundaries

Festival of LanternsThe enchanting atmosphere of Loi Krathong

The weather is cooling down and itrsquos

that time of year again when we all

take to the waterways of Thailand and

give praise to Khongkha the water

Goddess who took care of abundant

rainfall in the past raining season

Donrsquot miss this joyful celebration with

its enchanting atmosphere that brings

one and all in Thailand together

much like Songkran

Thailandrsquos lsquoFestival of Lightsrsquo is celebrated

throughout the kingdom on the night of the

November full moon The end of the rainy

season heralds the coolest months in the

countryrsquos calendar when the river waters are

also supposed to be at their highest

Superstition replaces religion on this night as

thousands flock to the banks of the swollen

rivers and canals to release khratongs floating

tributes to the river spirits and Mother Water ndash

Phra Mae Khongkha In recent years the festival

has been revived in the ancient temples of

Thailandrsquos former capital Sukhothai

Visitors assemble in the Sukhothai Historical

Park with their banana leaf khratongs decorated

with flowers incense sticks and candles to take

part in a ceremony that dates back centuries

Sometimes a coin is added as gift to the spirits

The pretty rafts are then released onto the lake

with a wish

It was once believed that Loi Khratong

was actually created in Sukhothai by Nang

Nopphamas a lady of the court and consort

of the king In fact the celebration was adapted

by Thai Buddhists from a Brahmanical festival

adapted to honour Buddha

The khratong is meant to be a light on the

darkness of the water for Buddha A personrsquos

sins and negative thoughts are also believed to

float away with the colourful little raft Try adding

a lock of your hair for extra luck

Nearly 20 of the Northern provinces will be

showing off a dazzling selection of floats in the

Royal Khratongs Procession as well as holding a

Miss Nopphamat beauty contest

A competition is held for the most beautifully

designed khratong as well as plenty of other

Sukhothai arts and cultural performances

The Light-and-Sound Presentation at Wat

Mahathat explains the history and origins of

Sukhothai and Loi Khratong through dance

music prayer combat displays light effects and

fireworks No Loi Khratong would be complete

without fireworks and thankfully the Thais are

not shy when it comes to blowing things up in

the sky

Tra Kuan pond is the place to be for the floating

of the Royal Khratongs followed by more

firmament-filling pyrotechnics Wat Chana

Songkram is the venue for the Mahachat

sermon Khon Marked Dance and a Thai

classical music performance

Thai Guru decided to travel from Chiang Mai

to Sukhotai for this yearrsquos festivities Although

the heavens decided to open for most of the

celebrations on the final day the rain could not

dampen the celebrations and the spectacle was

jaw dropping

The only thing that was missing due to the rain

was a sky filled with khom loi the sky lanterns

usually released into the firmament in their

hundreds

Although the festivities officially last for the best

part of a week it is the last three days that are

the busiest

Visitors can join in with a range of activities

including fruit carving or just wander around the

historic park listening to live traditional music

watching Thai martial arts or join the parade

of dancers musicians and beauty contestants

all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured

costumes

There are numerous places to stay for the

duration of the festival but it is advisable to

book ahead if you can because this is a very

popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north

from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai Temples

A visit to a temple in Thailand is

unavoidable They are everywhere

We at Thai Guru are well aware that

because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can

quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang

Mai With this in mind (and because

the city is overflowing with hundreds

of them) we have chosen a few of

our favourites we hope are slightly

alternative to the ones on the usual

tourist itinerary

Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to

the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its

latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of

the skills of the local silversmiths Like many

of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was

established several centuries ago The ubosoth

or ordination hall is an intricately designed

silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in

the sunlight

The area around Wua Lai has been the home to

silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past

couple of centuries who are famed throughout

the kingdom for creating detailed embossed

relief patterns on the objects they create

something that is immediately evident and

celebrated at Wat Srisuphan

The larger more traditionally decorated red blue

and gold prayer hall also contains impressive

silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos

life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft

museum

Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the

artisans at work and the temple has its own

silver-working school where apprentices are

trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive

Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved

in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-

robed residents of the temple improve their

linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also

available

Unfortunately women are not allowed to

enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this

is explained on a sign outside the wording of

which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in

the monastic boundary many precious things

incantations amulets and other holy objects

were buried over 500 years ago Entering

inside this area may deteriorated the place or

otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most

of the interior can be appreciated from the

doorway

Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous

for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged

Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai

Due to its being less well advertised than its

neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham

is often a more peaceful temple from which

to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang

Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist

Lent when the place was alive with worshippers

Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once

the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic

giants Following a visit from the Buddha the

giants decided to mend their ways stop eating

their neighbours and convert to Buddhism

For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and

offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the

templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally

constructed towards the end of the 7th century

Although the temple fell into disrepair over the

centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered

a chamber containing a number of Buddha

images The discovery led to the revitalisation of

this mountain top temple

The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are

guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured

sword-wielding warriors The courtyard

overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and

bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of

food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the

road leading to the temple

Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-

west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek

and easily accessible by car or taxi

Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai

was being established the name translates

as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably

because it was used to cast Buddha images for

its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The

entrance to the temple is through a small but

intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos

assembly hall is notable because it is one of the

only viharns of its type constructed solely from

teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a

superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock

astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference

to the king who once used the wooden hall as

his palace The gilded image features mythical

creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured

glass

The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite

from the busy road outside Wooden boxes

contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm

leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a

large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors

Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks

like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a

small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less

imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo

temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru

recommends a quick visit if you are passing

Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous

temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi

Luang

The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the

largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it

was damaged either by an earthquake in the

16th century or cannon fire from the guns

of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese

in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO

funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps

up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga

serpents and a group of five elephants (only the

one without a trunk or ears partially survived

whatever caused the structure to collapse the

others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi

was also once home to one of the most revered

religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald

Buddha Although the original now resides in

Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and

once again looks out over the city from a niche

on the east side of the structure

Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and

now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly

hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance

is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a

great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar

housed in a building at the base of the tree

Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although

one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few

alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed

Mae Hong Son

It is said that Mae Hong Son is the

most authentic and mountainous

province of Thailand For Thai Guru a

good reason to explore this province

side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai

province

Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of

Thailand The northern most part of this

province is at a distance of 924 km from

Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province

in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son

borders Myanmar On the south and east side it

borders Tak and Chiang Mai province

We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast

on the 108 road The scenery is woody and

mountainous so far so good And as we leave

the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek

for wildlife and beautiful landscapes

The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage

is that our average speed drops to less than

15 km hour No worries when you do trips

like these the clock stops and the only thing

on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning

landscapes that unfold before your eyes

The main road is well paved But as you might

understand we regularly go off road

This is the best way to come into contact with

locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo

While we are standing somewhere taking in the

beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a

falcon calling

A short walk through the forrest the sound

stops and we decide to sit down for some

water and well earned rest After a short while I

hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo

There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters

above us a white rumped falcon

Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras

it stays there and even when we start making

noises because we want to film it in flight it

takes itrsquos time

Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of

Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They

cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more

Of course they also have their own cattle And

walking through one of their small villages they

are very friendly and hospitable

It has to be said it is never smart to enter

a community or people with your camera

as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask

the people if they mind if you taking their

photograph or want to film their daily life

In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to

the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean

and offers a nice variety food on the terrace

with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city

where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists

Really nice to stroll down the walking street and

find food or a nice souvenir People are very

friendly as usual

From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae

Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an

average speed of 15 km hour

Halfway we jump out of the car into a river

Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to

keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn

but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around

without it

Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome

us and are gladly willing to allow us to make

photographs and film them

In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early

morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises

For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum

After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark

Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon

So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team

ChinatownBangkok

Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese

people in big cities around the world

Manhattan San Francisco Manilla

Paris and Boston have them and

more keep being officially recognised

in their role as historical and touristic

center every year Even places like

Dubai and Las Vegas have modern

day versions of this phenomenon

As soon as you pass under one of the famous

large red entrance arches you arrive in a

complete different world

A world that is paradise for photographers

A couple of the photographers in the Thai

Guru team decided to spend some time in the

Bangkok version of Chinatown

If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for

some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at

Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim

Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat

SLEEPY NANA dream destination

Relatively unknown and uncrowded

Nan has it all This gem of a province

hides an abundance of cultural and

natural attractions ancient temples

pristine forests rivers mountain

peaks but what strikes you most is

its omnipresent feel of an untroubled

authentic way of life

Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings

you this genuine feel in pictures and footage

For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of

Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant

nature and the nature of its people show

Thailand - as is often said before hordes of

tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas

it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan

managed to escape this proces but will it stay

that way Nan shares most of its border with

neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening

of the border and beyond towards China it is to

be expected that it will ultimately become an

important gateway for trade and tourism

Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town

and the countryside will enchant you and the natural

cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy

for at least a couple of days The town along the banks

of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base

to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night

life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous

temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue

influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The

great surroundings can best be explored by renting a

motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo

Much of the province is devoted to farming

Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still

being practised in areas of the province resulting

in a landscape where forests and fields alternate

Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside

of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature

peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich

natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the

province sees far fewer visitors than popular

neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You

can go white water rafting on the Wa River

along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim

National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay

overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes

Touring Nan

Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern

lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities

of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old

salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via

endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges

and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with

orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers

Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready

to be harvested broke through the green hills

giving a golden hue to the landscape

We encountered friendly villagers who worked

their way through the dry fields - meanwhile

singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to

supplement their meager incomes Despite their

hardship they showed us their heartwarming

hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes

with us

This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi

Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and

sparsely populated that we only passed two

cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos

difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand

nowadays

PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river

The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness

begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over

the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above

the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is

broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices

Then the carved image of a Naga becomes

visible above the water line followed by more

than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted

in red and gold colorshellip

During the year the remote provincial town

of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a

year for the annual spectacle of traditional

Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos

water artery The finals are held over two

days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos

banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite

team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in

Thailand yet relatively unknown

The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long

simple shelters where the massive dragon boats

are housed during the year Just once a year

they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos

most important sporting and social event The

event takes place right after the end of the

rainy season around early November when

water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at

their highest The colorful races are part of the

festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the

last day of Buddhist Lent in October

The narrow boats are made from massive

hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters

in length depending how many paddlers they

are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily

distinguishable by their use of bright colors and

mythical designs in the traditional local style

The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of

each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting

only the good ones to participate in their race

How to get there

Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is

connected by plane and by bus to the rest of

the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan

Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice

each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to

Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to

Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on

the service

Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan

(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8

hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)

The contestants of the races are classified into

three categories mdashlarge medium and small

boats Depending on their length each boat can

accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers

sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the

same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously

against the current to the frantic beating of a

drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern

The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying

their attempt to reach the finish line first and

the paddles churning up the river creates a

spectacular atmosphere

Son

g K

ran

in

Ch

ian

g M

ai

Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of

the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down

in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The

days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing

steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the

hot months of April and May The stifling mid-

day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out

unless necessary The buzz around town about

some festival called Song Kran is starting to

increase an underlying excitement rising

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
  2. Button 4
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  5. next
Page 14: Thaiguru issue10

On a peaceful street a short walk from Chiang

Mairsquos old city is the International Training Massage

School An airy modern building in the traditional

Lanna style welcomes beginners seeking to learn

the basics of traditional Thai massage as well as

seasoned massage professionals looking to expand

their skills

Thai Guru is well used to being on the receiving

end of a skilful pair of hands of belonging to an

experienced masseuse so were pleased to be

invited to join the students at ITM to learn a bit more

about the training that is required to perform one of

the best things about living in Thailand

Chiang Mai is a mecca for those wishing to

spend a few days a few weeks or a few months

learning the art of Nuad Boran or lsquoancient

Thai Massagersquo Massage is serious business

in this part of the world and schools like ITM

tech everything from introduction courses

to advanced teacher training There are also

some quite specific classes on offer including

pregnancy massage hot stone healing massage

and infant massage

The ITM students turn up to begin their studies

early in the morning Shoes and sandals are left

outside the building next to a decorative koi

carp pond comfortable loose fitting pyjamas

are donned feet are washed and it is off to one

of the yoga studios to settle down and the first

blessing of the day Prayers are offered up by

students and teachers to Dr Shivago Komarpaj

Buddharsquos physician and the father of Thai

massage

Traditional Thai massage is practiced without

oils unguents or lotions and both giver and

receiver keep their clothes on The therapy

involves the compression rocking stretching

and manipulation of the joints and muscles

rather than the rubbing and stroking often

employed in other forms of massage

Once the prayers and blessings have been given up it is time for the students to get themselves ready for

the dayrsquos exertions by stretching To the relaxing sounds of flute music a teacher guides the trainees through

a set of yoga moves On the morning Thai Guru visited there were fifteen students being gently told to

assume the lsquosupermanrsquo and kick their legs into the air for the lsquoreverse bicyclersquo

We were informed that the combination of rhythmic stretches traditionally used by yogis and hermits (who

probably better than anyone know the importance of a good stretch) as well as warming up the studentsrsquo

bodies help the novices to understand better what they will be doing to the bodies of those they are about

to massage

A short break for coffee and bananas in a quiet courtyard watched over by a shrine to Dr Shivago and itrsquos

back to the classroom for a demonstration of the significance of some basic Nuad Boran moves The

students gather round books with detailed diagrams open on their laps to study how to perfect moves like

lsquothe flamingorsquo and lsquothe last tangorsquo among others

The founder of the school Mr Chongkol Setthakorn takes over the class for

the serious task of making sure the students have been paying attention and

arenrsquot in the process of giving each other hernias A quick prayer is said and

the real business of bending stretching and joint crunching begins

The students we met had been training for between three and four weeks

However courses at ITM and indeed at schools across Chiang Mai can be

tailored to fit the requirements of anyone who wishes to get involved in an

activity that gives enormous pleasure to both the giver and receiver - as Mr

Settakorn astutely explains ldquoThai Massage is like a thousand gentle waves

washing over the bodyrdquo

ITM ndash International Training Massage School

599 Chang Puak Road

Soi 4 Chor

Sriphum

Muang Chiang Mai

50200 THAILAND

Phone +66-5321-8632

Mobile +66-83-763-1002

Email itmitmthaimassagecom

wwwitmthaimassagecom

Krabi dream destination

After a couple of weeks traveling through

Thailand many are looking for the

perfect location to spend their last days

of their vancation Perfection doesnrsquot

exist but dream destination Krabi is gets

close

Located in the south west of Thailand

Krabi is also thanks to its airport an easy

destination to reach

You will notice the friendly atmosphere in this

area of Thailand right away

A couple of must sees like the Emerald Pond

and the Hot Waterfall are definitely worth your

visit Imagine relaxing in a the hot waterfall

under the exotic trees

And of course an island tour is a must when

you are in Krabi

By boat you can visit Por da Koh Hong Koh Kai

and the famous Pranang cave

Khao Yai National Park

Since establishing Thai Guru Magazine

we have been eager to take our

cameras to Khao Yai National Park

Having visited the area previously

I had already enjoyed the beauty

of Khao Yai and the abundance of

wildlife to be seen there and was keen

to share it with the rest of the team

Finally at the end of January we

jumped in the car for the long drive

south from

Chiang Mai

Three hours northeast of Bangkok Khao Yai

is the oldest and third largest national park

in Thailand Grasslands evergreen forests

monsoon forests and rain forests cover more

than 2000 square kilometres of this Unesco

World Heritage site

The park is teeming with wildlife Mammals

including elephant gibbon barking deer and

guar live within the parkrsquos borders The area

is also home to carnivores such as Asian wild

dogs and tigers as well as numerous reptiles and

amphibians including king cobras pythons and

monitor lizards Nearly 400 species of bird can

be found at Khao Yai Other attractions in this

trekkersrsquo paradise include several large waterfalls

The 20 metre Haew Suwat waterfall with is

deep pool was made famous by the film lsquoThe

Beachrsquo

Day 1The road leading to the gates of Khao Yai National Park is notable for its

numerous Italian influenced restaurants hotels and guesthouses A paradise

for pizza and pasta lovers there is even a small Italian-style village with ice-

cream parlours eateries and Italian themed guesthouses Almost immediately

after entering the park we were greeted by the sight of black giant squirrels

and pig tailed macaques clamouring in the canopy all around us Our first stop

was the visitor centre where we picked up a map of the park and other useful

information Outside were several sambar deer picking through restaurant

leftovers The rest of the day was spent exploring spots in which to set up

our cameras the following day We also made the first of several walks to the

observation tower adjacent to Nong Pak Chee reservoir As well as fabulous

views of the park the tower overlooks a saltlick where all manner of wildlife

gathers to suck up vital minerals and nutrients

Day 2Khao Yai is extremely popular with visitors and we could only

book lodging within its borders for the last two days of our trip

This meant an early start so we could get into the park in time to

shoot the sunrise We were the first visitors of the day and drove

to one of the places we had explored the day before We came

across what we thought was one of the many sambar or barking

deer that roam freely around the park We decided to take a

closer look only to find we had stumbled across an Asiatic black

bear half hidden in the morning mist Having spotted us after a

few minutes the handsome creature ambled off into the forest

The dawn had barely broken and our day was already a triumph

The rest of our time was spent following gibbons various varieties

deer and innumerable brightly coloured birds

Day 3Today we were fortunate to be allowed to move

ourselves and our equipment into government-

owned lodgings within the park Our first

mission was to set our cameras up at a place

where we had heard the heavy distinctive

rushing of wings and calls of hornbills (described

by some as sounding like the puffing of a steam

locomotive) the day before

We had expected a long wait but already had

our first shots of this impressive bird in the

can before breakfast We spent many hours

photographing hornbills macaque and other

wildlife

We even stumbled upon a pack of Asian wild

dogs gathered around the carcass of a recently

killed deer We thought our wildlife encounters

for the day were over as we sat down to enjoy

dinner only to be disturbed by scuffling sounds

behind our bungalow The noise was being

made by a pair of porcupines who were not in

the least afraid of us and actually attempted to

chase us away

Day 4The day was spent exploring the trails of Khao Yai and discovering among other wildlife a magnificent

crested serpent eagle As the afternoon drew to a close we decided to take one last trip to the watchtower

From here we witnessed the gathering of a large flock of hornbills We showed some of our footage to a

friendly ranger He was particularly interested in our bear shots We were thrilled to be told that it was very

rare to see a black bear even more so when we were informed that none of the rangers had seen one for

a number of months I decided to leave the tower to find a good place to photograph the sunset Within

a matter of minutes I heard someone scream ldquoBEARrdquo and was back up the stairs in seconds There below

us taking an evening stroll through the grass just metres from where we were perched was another much

younger black bear

Our trip could not have ended better Needless

to say Thai Guru thoroughly recommends a visit

to Khao Yai National Park As already mentioned

the park is popular with both local and foreign

tourists especially on holidays and weekends

We advise that you try to visit during the week

when the park is quieter and the chance of

seeing the amazing wildlife is greater

The park has two camping grounds as well as a

few bungalows that can be booked through the

Department of National Parks Wildlife and Plant

Conservation These need to be booked well

in advance However there are also plenty of

guesthouses and hotels are to be found along

the parkrsquos boundaries

Festival of LanternsThe enchanting atmosphere of Loi Krathong

The weather is cooling down and itrsquos

that time of year again when we all

take to the waterways of Thailand and

give praise to Khongkha the water

Goddess who took care of abundant

rainfall in the past raining season

Donrsquot miss this joyful celebration with

its enchanting atmosphere that brings

one and all in Thailand together

much like Songkran

Thailandrsquos lsquoFestival of Lightsrsquo is celebrated

throughout the kingdom on the night of the

November full moon The end of the rainy

season heralds the coolest months in the

countryrsquos calendar when the river waters are

also supposed to be at their highest

Superstition replaces religion on this night as

thousands flock to the banks of the swollen

rivers and canals to release khratongs floating

tributes to the river spirits and Mother Water ndash

Phra Mae Khongkha In recent years the festival

has been revived in the ancient temples of

Thailandrsquos former capital Sukhothai

Visitors assemble in the Sukhothai Historical

Park with their banana leaf khratongs decorated

with flowers incense sticks and candles to take

part in a ceremony that dates back centuries

Sometimes a coin is added as gift to the spirits

The pretty rafts are then released onto the lake

with a wish

It was once believed that Loi Khratong

was actually created in Sukhothai by Nang

Nopphamas a lady of the court and consort

of the king In fact the celebration was adapted

by Thai Buddhists from a Brahmanical festival

adapted to honour Buddha

The khratong is meant to be a light on the

darkness of the water for Buddha A personrsquos

sins and negative thoughts are also believed to

float away with the colourful little raft Try adding

a lock of your hair for extra luck

Nearly 20 of the Northern provinces will be

showing off a dazzling selection of floats in the

Royal Khratongs Procession as well as holding a

Miss Nopphamat beauty contest

A competition is held for the most beautifully

designed khratong as well as plenty of other

Sukhothai arts and cultural performances

The Light-and-Sound Presentation at Wat

Mahathat explains the history and origins of

Sukhothai and Loi Khratong through dance

music prayer combat displays light effects and

fireworks No Loi Khratong would be complete

without fireworks and thankfully the Thais are

not shy when it comes to blowing things up in

the sky

Tra Kuan pond is the place to be for the floating

of the Royal Khratongs followed by more

firmament-filling pyrotechnics Wat Chana

Songkram is the venue for the Mahachat

sermon Khon Marked Dance and a Thai

classical music performance

Thai Guru decided to travel from Chiang Mai

to Sukhotai for this yearrsquos festivities Although

the heavens decided to open for most of the

celebrations on the final day the rain could not

dampen the celebrations and the spectacle was

jaw dropping

The only thing that was missing due to the rain

was a sky filled with khom loi the sky lanterns

usually released into the firmament in their

hundreds

Although the festivities officially last for the best

part of a week it is the last three days that are

the busiest

Visitors can join in with a range of activities

including fruit carving or just wander around the

historic park listening to live traditional music

watching Thai martial arts or join the parade

of dancers musicians and beauty contestants

all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured

costumes

There are numerous places to stay for the

duration of the festival but it is advisable to

book ahead if you can because this is a very

popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north

from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai Temples

A visit to a temple in Thailand is

unavoidable They are everywhere

We at Thai Guru are well aware that

because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can

quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang

Mai With this in mind (and because

the city is overflowing with hundreds

of them) we have chosen a few of

our favourites we hope are slightly

alternative to the ones on the usual

tourist itinerary

Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to

the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its

latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of

the skills of the local silversmiths Like many

of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was

established several centuries ago The ubosoth

or ordination hall is an intricately designed

silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in

the sunlight

The area around Wua Lai has been the home to

silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past

couple of centuries who are famed throughout

the kingdom for creating detailed embossed

relief patterns on the objects they create

something that is immediately evident and

celebrated at Wat Srisuphan

The larger more traditionally decorated red blue

and gold prayer hall also contains impressive

silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos

life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft

museum

Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the

artisans at work and the temple has its own

silver-working school where apprentices are

trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive

Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved

in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-

robed residents of the temple improve their

linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also

available

Unfortunately women are not allowed to

enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this

is explained on a sign outside the wording of

which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in

the monastic boundary many precious things

incantations amulets and other holy objects

were buried over 500 years ago Entering

inside this area may deteriorated the place or

otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most

of the interior can be appreciated from the

doorway

Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous

for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged

Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai

Due to its being less well advertised than its

neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham

is often a more peaceful temple from which

to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang

Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist

Lent when the place was alive with worshippers

Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once

the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic

giants Following a visit from the Buddha the

giants decided to mend their ways stop eating

their neighbours and convert to Buddhism

For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and

offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the

templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally

constructed towards the end of the 7th century

Although the temple fell into disrepair over the

centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered

a chamber containing a number of Buddha

images The discovery led to the revitalisation of

this mountain top temple

The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are

guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured

sword-wielding warriors The courtyard

overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and

bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of

food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the

road leading to the temple

Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-

west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek

and easily accessible by car or taxi

Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai

was being established the name translates

as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably

because it was used to cast Buddha images for

its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The

entrance to the temple is through a small but

intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos

assembly hall is notable because it is one of the

only viharns of its type constructed solely from

teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a

superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock

astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference

to the king who once used the wooden hall as

his palace The gilded image features mythical

creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured

glass

The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite

from the busy road outside Wooden boxes

contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm

leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a

large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors

Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks

like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a

small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less

imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo

temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru

recommends a quick visit if you are passing

Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous

temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi

Luang

The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the

largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it

was damaged either by an earthquake in the

16th century or cannon fire from the guns

of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese

in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO

funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps

up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga

serpents and a group of five elephants (only the

one without a trunk or ears partially survived

whatever caused the structure to collapse the

others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi

was also once home to one of the most revered

religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald

Buddha Although the original now resides in

Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and

once again looks out over the city from a niche

on the east side of the structure

Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and

now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly

hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance

is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a

great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar

housed in a building at the base of the tree

Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although

one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few

alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed

Mae Hong Son

It is said that Mae Hong Son is the

most authentic and mountainous

province of Thailand For Thai Guru a

good reason to explore this province

side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai

province

Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of

Thailand The northern most part of this

province is at a distance of 924 km from

Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province

in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son

borders Myanmar On the south and east side it

borders Tak and Chiang Mai province

We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast

on the 108 road The scenery is woody and

mountainous so far so good And as we leave

the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek

for wildlife and beautiful landscapes

The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage

is that our average speed drops to less than

15 km hour No worries when you do trips

like these the clock stops and the only thing

on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning

landscapes that unfold before your eyes

The main road is well paved But as you might

understand we regularly go off road

This is the best way to come into contact with

locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo

While we are standing somewhere taking in the

beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a

falcon calling

A short walk through the forrest the sound

stops and we decide to sit down for some

water and well earned rest After a short while I

hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo

There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters

above us a white rumped falcon

Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras

it stays there and even when we start making

noises because we want to film it in flight it

takes itrsquos time

Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of

Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They

cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more

Of course they also have their own cattle And

walking through one of their small villages they

are very friendly and hospitable

It has to be said it is never smart to enter

a community or people with your camera

as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask

the people if they mind if you taking their

photograph or want to film their daily life

In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to

the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean

and offers a nice variety food on the terrace

with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city

where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists

Really nice to stroll down the walking street and

find food or a nice souvenir People are very

friendly as usual

From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae

Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an

average speed of 15 km hour

Halfway we jump out of the car into a river

Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to

keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn

but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around

without it

Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome

us and are gladly willing to allow us to make

photographs and film them

In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early

morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises

For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum

After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark

Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon

So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team

ChinatownBangkok

Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese

people in big cities around the world

Manhattan San Francisco Manilla

Paris and Boston have them and

more keep being officially recognised

in their role as historical and touristic

center every year Even places like

Dubai and Las Vegas have modern

day versions of this phenomenon

As soon as you pass under one of the famous

large red entrance arches you arrive in a

complete different world

A world that is paradise for photographers

A couple of the photographers in the Thai

Guru team decided to spend some time in the

Bangkok version of Chinatown

If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for

some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at

Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim

Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat

SLEEPY NANA dream destination

Relatively unknown and uncrowded

Nan has it all This gem of a province

hides an abundance of cultural and

natural attractions ancient temples

pristine forests rivers mountain

peaks but what strikes you most is

its omnipresent feel of an untroubled

authentic way of life

Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings

you this genuine feel in pictures and footage

For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of

Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant

nature and the nature of its people show

Thailand - as is often said before hordes of

tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas

it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan

managed to escape this proces but will it stay

that way Nan shares most of its border with

neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening

of the border and beyond towards China it is to

be expected that it will ultimately become an

important gateway for trade and tourism

Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town

and the countryside will enchant you and the natural

cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy

for at least a couple of days The town along the banks

of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base

to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night

life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous

temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue

influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The

great surroundings can best be explored by renting a

motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo

Much of the province is devoted to farming

Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still

being practised in areas of the province resulting

in a landscape where forests and fields alternate

Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside

of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature

peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich

natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the

province sees far fewer visitors than popular

neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You

can go white water rafting on the Wa River

along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim

National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay

overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes

Touring Nan

Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern

lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities

of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old

salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via

endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges

and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with

orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers

Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready

to be harvested broke through the green hills

giving a golden hue to the landscape

We encountered friendly villagers who worked

their way through the dry fields - meanwhile

singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to

supplement their meager incomes Despite their

hardship they showed us their heartwarming

hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes

with us

This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi

Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and

sparsely populated that we only passed two

cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos

difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand

nowadays

PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river

The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness

begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over

the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above

the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is

broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices

Then the carved image of a Naga becomes

visible above the water line followed by more

than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted

in red and gold colorshellip

During the year the remote provincial town

of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a

year for the annual spectacle of traditional

Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos

water artery The finals are held over two

days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos

banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite

team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in

Thailand yet relatively unknown

The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long

simple shelters where the massive dragon boats

are housed during the year Just once a year

they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos

most important sporting and social event The

event takes place right after the end of the

rainy season around early November when

water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at

their highest The colorful races are part of the

festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the

last day of Buddhist Lent in October

The narrow boats are made from massive

hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters

in length depending how many paddlers they

are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily

distinguishable by their use of bright colors and

mythical designs in the traditional local style

The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of

each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting

only the good ones to participate in their race

How to get there

Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is

connected by plane and by bus to the rest of

the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan

Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice

each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to

Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to

Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on

the service

Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan

(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8

hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)

The contestants of the races are classified into

three categories mdashlarge medium and small

boats Depending on their length each boat can

accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers

sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the

same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously

against the current to the frantic beating of a

drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern

The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying

their attempt to reach the finish line first and

the paddles churning up the river creates a

spectacular atmosphere

Son

g K

ran

in

Ch

ian

g M

ai

Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of

the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down

in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The

days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing

steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the

hot months of April and May The stifling mid-

day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out

unless necessary The buzz around town about

some festival called Song Kran is starting to

increase an underlying excitement rising

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

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To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

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infothaigurumagazinecom

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available in HD on our youtube channel

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Page 15: Thaiguru issue10

Chiang Mai is a mecca for those wishing to

spend a few days a few weeks or a few months

learning the art of Nuad Boran or lsquoancient

Thai Massagersquo Massage is serious business

in this part of the world and schools like ITM

tech everything from introduction courses

to advanced teacher training There are also

some quite specific classes on offer including

pregnancy massage hot stone healing massage

and infant massage

The ITM students turn up to begin their studies

early in the morning Shoes and sandals are left

outside the building next to a decorative koi

carp pond comfortable loose fitting pyjamas

are donned feet are washed and it is off to one

of the yoga studios to settle down and the first

blessing of the day Prayers are offered up by

students and teachers to Dr Shivago Komarpaj

Buddharsquos physician and the father of Thai

massage

Traditional Thai massage is practiced without

oils unguents or lotions and both giver and

receiver keep their clothes on The therapy

involves the compression rocking stretching

and manipulation of the joints and muscles

rather than the rubbing and stroking often

employed in other forms of massage

Once the prayers and blessings have been given up it is time for the students to get themselves ready for

the dayrsquos exertions by stretching To the relaxing sounds of flute music a teacher guides the trainees through

a set of yoga moves On the morning Thai Guru visited there were fifteen students being gently told to

assume the lsquosupermanrsquo and kick their legs into the air for the lsquoreverse bicyclersquo

We were informed that the combination of rhythmic stretches traditionally used by yogis and hermits (who

probably better than anyone know the importance of a good stretch) as well as warming up the studentsrsquo

bodies help the novices to understand better what they will be doing to the bodies of those they are about

to massage

A short break for coffee and bananas in a quiet courtyard watched over by a shrine to Dr Shivago and itrsquos

back to the classroom for a demonstration of the significance of some basic Nuad Boran moves The

students gather round books with detailed diagrams open on their laps to study how to perfect moves like

lsquothe flamingorsquo and lsquothe last tangorsquo among others

The founder of the school Mr Chongkol Setthakorn takes over the class for

the serious task of making sure the students have been paying attention and

arenrsquot in the process of giving each other hernias A quick prayer is said and

the real business of bending stretching and joint crunching begins

The students we met had been training for between three and four weeks

However courses at ITM and indeed at schools across Chiang Mai can be

tailored to fit the requirements of anyone who wishes to get involved in an

activity that gives enormous pleasure to both the giver and receiver - as Mr

Settakorn astutely explains ldquoThai Massage is like a thousand gentle waves

washing over the bodyrdquo

ITM ndash International Training Massage School

599 Chang Puak Road

Soi 4 Chor

Sriphum

Muang Chiang Mai

50200 THAILAND

Phone +66-5321-8632

Mobile +66-83-763-1002

Email itmitmthaimassagecom

wwwitmthaimassagecom

Krabi dream destination

After a couple of weeks traveling through

Thailand many are looking for the

perfect location to spend their last days

of their vancation Perfection doesnrsquot

exist but dream destination Krabi is gets

close

Located in the south west of Thailand

Krabi is also thanks to its airport an easy

destination to reach

You will notice the friendly atmosphere in this

area of Thailand right away

A couple of must sees like the Emerald Pond

and the Hot Waterfall are definitely worth your

visit Imagine relaxing in a the hot waterfall

under the exotic trees

And of course an island tour is a must when

you are in Krabi

By boat you can visit Por da Koh Hong Koh Kai

and the famous Pranang cave

Khao Yai National Park

Since establishing Thai Guru Magazine

we have been eager to take our

cameras to Khao Yai National Park

Having visited the area previously

I had already enjoyed the beauty

of Khao Yai and the abundance of

wildlife to be seen there and was keen

to share it with the rest of the team

Finally at the end of January we

jumped in the car for the long drive

south from

Chiang Mai

Three hours northeast of Bangkok Khao Yai

is the oldest and third largest national park

in Thailand Grasslands evergreen forests

monsoon forests and rain forests cover more

than 2000 square kilometres of this Unesco

World Heritage site

The park is teeming with wildlife Mammals

including elephant gibbon barking deer and

guar live within the parkrsquos borders The area

is also home to carnivores such as Asian wild

dogs and tigers as well as numerous reptiles and

amphibians including king cobras pythons and

monitor lizards Nearly 400 species of bird can

be found at Khao Yai Other attractions in this

trekkersrsquo paradise include several large waterfalls

The 20 metre Haew Suwat waterfall with is

deep pool was made famous by the film lsquoThe

Beachrsquo

Day 1The road leading to the gates of Khao Yai National Park is notable for its

numerous Italian influenced restaurants hotels and guesthouses A paradise

for pizza and pasta lovers there is even a small Italian-style village with ice-

cream parlours eateries and Italian themed guesthouses Almost immediately

after entering the park we were greeted by the sight of black giant squirrels

and pig tailed macaques clamouring in the canopy all around us Our first stop

was the visitor centre where we picked up a map of the park and other useful

information Outside were several sambar deer picking through restaurant

leftovers The rest of the day was spent exploring spots in which to set up

our cameras the following day We also made the first of several walks to the

observation tower adjacent to Nong Pak Chee reservoir As well as fabulous

views of the park the tower overlooks a saltlick where all manner of wildlife

gathers to suck up vital minerals and nutrients

Day 2Khao Yai is extremely popular with visitors and we could only

book lodging within its borders for the last two days of our trip

This meant an early start so we could get into the park in time to

shoot the sunrise We were the first visitors of the day and drove

to one of the places we had explored the day before We came

across what we thought was one of the many sambar or barking

deer that roam freely around the park We decided to take a

closer look only to find we had stumbled across an Asiatic black

bear half hidden in the morning mist Having spotted us after a

few minutes the handsome creature ambled off into the forest

The dawn had barely broken and our day was already a triumph

The rest of our time was spent following gibbons various varieties

deer and innumerable brightly coloured birds

Day 3Today we were fortunate to be allowed to move

ourselves and our equipment into government-

owned lodgings within the park Our first

mission was to set our cameras up at a place

where we had heard the heavy distinctive

rushing of wings and calls of hornbills (described

by some as sounding like the puffing of a steam

locomotive) the day before

We had expected a long wait but already had

our first shots of this impressive bird in the

can before breakfast We spent many hours

photographing hornbills macaque and other

wildlife

We even stumbled upon a pack of Asian wild

dogs gathered around the carcass of a recently

killed deer We thought our wildlife encounters

for the day were over as we sat down to enjoy

dinner only to be disturbed by scuffling sounds

behind our bungalow The noise was being

made by a pair of porcupines who were not in

the least afraid of us and actually attempted to

chase us away

Day 4The day was spent exploring the trails of Khao Yai and discovering among other wildlife a magnificent

crested serpent eagle As the afternoon drew to a close we decided to take one last trip to the watchtower

From here we witnessed the gathering of a large flock of hornbills We showed some of our footage to a

friendly ranger He was particularly interested in our bear shots We were thrilled to be told that it was very

rare to see a black bear even more so when we were informed that none of the rangers had seen one for

a number of months I decided to leave the tower to find a good place to photograph the sunset Within

a matter of minutes I heard someone scream ldquoBEARrdquo and was back up the stairs in seconds There below

us taking an evening stroll through the grass just metres from where we were perched was another much

younger black bear

Our trip could not have ended better Needless

to say Thai Guru thoroughly recommends a visit

to Khao Yai National Park As already mentioned

the park is popular with both local and foreign

tourists especially on holidays and weekends

We advise that you try to visit during the week

when the park is quieter and the chance of

seeing the amazing wildlife is greater

The park has two camping grounds as well as a

few bungalows that can be booked through the

Department of National Parks Wildlife and Plant

Conservation These need to be booked well

in advance However there are also plenty of

guesthouses and hotels are to be found along

the parkrsquos boundaries

Festival of LanternsThe enchanting atmosphere of Loi Krathong

The weather is cooling down and itrsquos

that time of year again when we all

take to the waterways of Thailand and

give praise to Khongkha the water

Goddess who took care of abundant

rainfall in the past raining season

Donrsquot miss this joyful celebration with

its enchanting atmosphere that brings

one and all in Thailand together

much like Songkran

Thailandrsquos lsquoFestival of Lightsrsquo is celebrated

throughout the kingdom on the night of the

November full moon The end of the rainy

season heralds the coolest months in the

countryrsquos calendar when the river waters are

also supposed to be at their highest

Superstition replaces religion on this night as

thousands flock to the banks of the swollen

rivers and canals to release khratongs floating

tributes to the river spirits and Mother Water ndash

Phra Mae Khongkha In recent years the festival

has been revived in the ancient temples of

Thailandrsquos former capital Sukhothai

Visitors assemble in the Sukhothai Historical

Park with their banana leaf khratongs decorated

with flowers incense sticks and candles to take

part in a ceremony that dates back centuries

Sometimes a coin is added as gift to the spirits

The pretty rafts are then released onto the lake

with a wish

It was once believed that Loi Khratong

was actually created in Sukhothai by Nang

Nopphamas a lady of the court and consort

of the king In fact the celebration was adapted

by Thai Buddhists from a Brahmanical festival

adapted to honour Buddha

The khratong is meant to be a light on the

darkness of the water for Buddha A personrsquos

sins and negative thoughts are also believed to

float away with the colourful little raft Try adding

a lock of your hair for extra luck

Nearly 20 of the Northern provinces will be

showing off a dazzling selection of floats in the

Royal Khratongs Procession as well as holding a

Miss Nopphamat beauty contest

A competition is held for the most beautifully

designed khratong as well as plenty of other

Sukhothai arts and cultural performances

The Light-and-Sound Presentation at Wat

Mahathat explains the history and origins of

Sukhothai and Loi Khratong through dance

music prayer combat displays light effects and

fireworks No Loi Khratong would be complete

without fireworks and thankfully the Thais are

not shy when it comes to blowing things up in

the sky

Tra Kuan pond is the place to be for the floating

of the Royal Khratongs followed by more

firmament-filling pyrotechnics Wat Chana

Songkram is the venue for the Mahachat

sermon Khon Marked Dance and a Thai

classical music performance

Thai Guru decided to travel from Chiang Mai

to Sukhotai for this yearrsquos festivities Although

the heavens decided to open for most of the

celebrations on the final day the rain could not

dampen the celebrations and the spectacle was

jaw dropping

The only thing that was missing due to the rain

was a sky filled with khom loi the sky lanterns

usually released into the firmament in their

hundreds

Although the festivities officially last for the best

part of a week it is the last three days that are

the busiest

Visitors can join in with a range of activities

including fruit carving or just wander around the

historic park listening to live traditional music

watching Thai martial arts or join the parade

of dancers musicians and beauty contestants

all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured

costumes

There are numerous places to stay for the

duration of the festival but it is advisable to

book ahead if you can because this is a very

popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north

from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai Temples

A visit to a temple in Thailand is

unavoidable They are everywhere

We at Thai Guru are well aware that

because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can

quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang

Mai With this in mind (and because

the city is overflowing with hundreds

of them) we have chosen a few of

our favourites we hope are slightly

alternative to the ones on the usual

tourist itinerary

Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to

the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its

latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of

the skills of the local silversmiths Like many

of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was

established several centuries ago The ubosoth

or ordination hall is an intricately designed

silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in

the sunlight

The area around Wua Lai has been the home to

silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past

couple of centuries who are famed throughout

the kingdom for creating detailed embossed

relief patterns on the objects they create

something that is immediately evident and

celebrated at Wat Srisuphan

The larger more traditionally decorated red blue

and gold prayer hall also contains impressive

silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos

life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft

museum

Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the

artisans at work and the temple has its own

silver-working school where apprentices are

trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive

Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved

in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-

robed residents of the temple improve their

linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also

available

Unfortunately women are not allowed to

enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this

is explained on a sign outside the wording of

which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in

the monastic boundary many precious things

incantations amulets and other holy objects

were buried over 500 years ago Entering

inside this area may deteriorated the place or

otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most

of the interior can be appreciated from the

doorway

Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous

for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged

Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai

Due to its being less well advertised than its

neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham

is often a more peaceful temple from which

to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang

Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist

Lent when the place was alive with worshippers

Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once

the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic

giants Following a visit from the Buddha the

giants decided to mend their ways stop eating

their neighbours and convert to Buddhism

For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and

offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the

templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally

constructed towards the end of the 7th century

Although the temple fell into disrepair over the

centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered

a chamber containing a number of Buddha

images The discovery led to the revitalisation of

this mountain top temple

The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are

guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured

sword-wielding warriors The courtyard

overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and

bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of

food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the

road leading to the temple

Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-

west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek

and easily accessible by car or taxi

Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai

was being established the name translates

as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably

because it was used to cast Buddha images for

its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The

entrance to the temple is through a small but

intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos

assembly hall is notable because it is one of the

only viharns of its type constructed solely from

teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a

superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock

astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference

to the king who once used the wooden hall as

his palace The gilded image features mythical

creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured

glass

The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite

from the busy road outside Wooden boxes

contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm

leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a

large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors

Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks

like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a

small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less

imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo

temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru

recommends a quick visit if you are passing

Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous

temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi

Luang

The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the

largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it

was damaged either by an earthquake in the

16th century or cannon fire from the guns

of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese

in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO

funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps

up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga

serpents and a group of five elephants (only the

one without a trunk or ears partially survived

whatever caused the structure to collapse the

others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi

was also once home to one of the most revered

religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald

Buddha Although the original now resides in

Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and

once again looks out over the city from a niche

on the east side of the structure

Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and

now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly

hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance

is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a

great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar

housed in a building at the base of the tree

Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although

one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few

alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed

Mae Hong Son

It is said that Mae Hong Son is the

most authentic and mountainous

province of Thailand For Thai Guru a

good reason to explore this province

side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai

province

Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of

Thailand The northern most part of this

province is at a distance of 924 km from

Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province

in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son

borders Myanmar On the south and east side it

borders Tak and Chiang Mai province

We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast

on the 108 road The scenery is woody and

mountainous so far so good And as we leave

the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek

for wildlife and beautiful landscapes

The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage

is that our average speed drops to less than

15 km hour No worries when you do trips

like these the clock stops and the only thing

on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning

landscapes that unfold before your eyes

The main road is well paved But as you might

understand we regularly go off road

This is the best way to come into contact with

locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo

While we are standing somewhere taking in the

beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a

falcon calling

A short walk through the forrest the sound

stops and we decide to sit down for some

water and well earned rest After a short while I

hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo

There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters

above us a white rumped falcon

Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras

it stays there and even when we start making

noises because we want to film it in flight it

takes itrsquos time

Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of

Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They

cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more

Of course they also have their own cattle And

walking through one of their small villages they

are very friendly and hospitable

It has to be said it is never smart to enter

a community or people with your camera

as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask

the people if they mind if you taking their

photograph or want to film their daily life

In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to

the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean

and offers a nice variety food on the terrace

with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city

where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists

Really nice to stroll down the walking street and

find food or a nice souvenir People are very

friendly as usual

From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae

Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an

average speed of 15 km hour

Halfway we jump out of the car into a river

Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to

keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn

but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around

without it

Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome

us and are gladly willing to allow us to make

photographs and film them

In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early

morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises

For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum

After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark

Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon

So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team

ChinatownBangkok

Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese

people in big cities around the world

Manhattan San Francisco Manilla

Paris and Boston have them and

more keep being officially recognised

in their role as historical and touristic

center every year Even places like

Dubai and Las Vegas have modern

day versions of this phenomenon

As soon as you pass under one of the famous

large red entrance arches you arrive in a

complete different world

A world that is paradise for photographers

A couple of the photographers in the Thai

Guru team decided to spend some time in the

Bangkok version of Chinatown

If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for

some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at

Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim

Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat

SLEEPY NANA dream destination

Relatively unknown and uncrowded

Nan has it all This gem of a province

hides an abundance of cultural and

natural attractions ancient temples

pristine forests rivers mountain

peaks but what strikes you most is

its omnipresent feel of an untroubled

authentic way of life

Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings

you this genuine feel in pictures and footage

For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of

Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant

nature and the nature of its people show

Thailand - as is often said before hordes of

tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas

it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan

managed to escape this proces but will it stay

that way Nan shares most of its border with

neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening

of the border and beyond towards China it is to

be expected that it will ultimately become an

important gateway for trade and tourism

Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town

and the countryside will enchant you and the natural

cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy

for at least a couple of days The town along the banks

of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base

to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night

life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous

temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue

influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The

great surroundings can best be explored by renting a

motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo

Much of the province is devoted to farming

Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still

being practised in areas of the province resulting

in a landscape where forests and fields alternate

Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside

of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature

peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich

natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the

province sees far fewer visitors than popular

neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You

can go white water rafting on the Wa River

along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim

National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay

overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes

Touring Nan

Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern

lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities

of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old

salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via

endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges

and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with

orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers

Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready

to be harvested broke through the green hills

giving a golden hue to the landscape

We encountered friendly villagers who worked

their way through the dry fields - meanwhile

singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to

supplement their meager incomes Despite their

hardship they showed us their heartwarming

hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes

with us

This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi

Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and

sparsely populated that we only passed two

cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos

difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand

nowadays

PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river

The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness

begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over

the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above

the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is

broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices

Then the carved image of a Naga becomes

visible above the water line followed by more

than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted

in red and gold colorshellip

During the year the remote provincial town

of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a

year for the annual spectacle of traditional

Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos

water artery The finals are held over two

days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos

banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite

team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in

Thailand yet relatively unknown

The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long

simple shelters where the massive dragon boats

are housed during the year Just once a year

they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos

most important sporting and social event The

event takes place right after the end of the

rainy season around early November when

water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at

their highest The colorful races are part of the

festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the

last day of Buddhist Lent in October

The narrow boats are made from massive

hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters

in length depending how many paddlers they

are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily

distinguishable by their use of bright colors and

mythical designs in the traditional local style

The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of

each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting

only the good ones to participate in their race

How to get there

Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is

connected by plane and by bus to the rest of

the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan

Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice

each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to

Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to

Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on

the service

Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan

(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8

hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)

The contestants of the races are classified into

three categories mdashlarge medium and small

boats Depending on their length each boat can

accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers

sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the

same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously

against the current to the frantic beating of a

drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern

The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying

their attempt to reach the finish line first and

the paddles churning up the river creates a

spectacular atmosphere

Son

g K

ran

in

Ch

ian

g M

ai

Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of

the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down

in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The

days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing

steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the

hot months of April and May The stifling mid-

day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out

unless necessary The buzz around town about

some festival called Song Kran is starting to

increase an underlying excitement rising

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

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Page 16: Thaiguru issue10

Once the prayers and blessings have been given up it is time for the students to get themselves ready for

the dayrsquos exertions by stretching To the relaxing sounds of flute music a teacher guides the trainees through

a set of yoga moves On the morning Thai Guru visited there were fifteen students being gently told to

assume the lsquosupermanrsquo and kick their legs into the air for the lsquoreverse bicyclersquo

We were informed that the combination of rhythmic stretches traditionally used by yogis and hermits (who

probably better than anyone know the importance of a good stretch) as well as warming up the studentsrsquo

bodies help the novices to understand better what they will be doing to the bodies of those they are about

to massage

A short break for coffee and bananas in a quiet courtyard watched over by a shrine to Dr Shivago and itrsquos

back to the classroom for a demonstration of the significance of some basic Nuad Boran moves The

students gather round books with detailed diagrams open on their laps to study how to perfect moves like

lsquothe flamingorsquo and lsquothe last tangorsquo among others

The founder of the school Mr Chongkol Setthakorn takes over the class for

the serious task of making sure the students have been paying attention and

arenrsquot in the process of giving each other hernias A quick prayer is said and

the real business of bending stretching and joint crunching begins

The students we met had been training for between three and four weeks

However courses at ITM and indeed at schools across Chiang Mai can be

tailored to fit the requirements of anyone who wishes to get involved in an

activity that gives enormous pleasure to both the giver and receiver - as Mr

Settakorn astutely explains ldquoThai Massage is like a thousand gentle waves

washing over the bodyrdquo

ITM ndash International Training Massage School

599 Chang Puak Road

Soi 4 Chor

Sriphum

Muang Chiang Mai

50200 THAILAND

Phone +66-5321-8632

Mobile +66-83-763-1002

Email itmitmthaimassagecom

wwwitmthaimassagecom

Krabi dream destination

After a couple of weeks traveling through

Thailand many are looking for the

perfect location to spend their last days

of their vancation Perfection doesnrsquot

exist but dream destination Krabi is gets

close

Located in the south west of Thailand

Krabi is also thanks to its airport an easy

destination to reach

You will notice the friendly atmosphere in this

area of Thailand right away

A couple of must sees like the Emerald Pond

and the Hot Waterfall are definitely worth your

visit Imagine relaxing in a the hot waterfall

under the exotic trees

And of course an island tour is a must when

you are in Krabi

By boat you can visit Por da Koh Hong Koh Kai

and the famous Pranang cave

Khao Yai National Park

Since establishing Thai Guru Magazine

we have been eager to take our

cameras to Khao Yai National Park

Having visited the area previously

I had already enjoyed the beauty

of Khao Yai and the abundance of

wildlife to be seen there and was keen

to share it with the rest of the team

Finally at the end of January we

jumped in the car for the long drive

south from

Chiang Mai

Three hours northeast of Bangkok Khao Yai

is the oldest and third largest national park

in Thailand Grasslands evergreen forests

monsoon forests and rain forests cover more

than 2000 square kilometres of this Unesco

World Heritage site

The park is teeming with wildlife Mammals

including elephant gibbon barking deer and

guar live within the parkrsquos borders The area

is also home to carnivores such as Asian wild

dogs and tigers as well as numerous reptiles and

amphibians including king cobras pythons and

monitor lizards Nearly 400 species of bird can

be found at Khao Yai Other attractions in this

trekkersrsquo paradise include several large waterfalls

The 20 metre Haew Suwat waterfall with is

deep pool was made famous by the film lsquoThe

Beachrsquo

Day 1The road leading to the gates of Khao Yai National Park is notable for its

numerous Italian influenced restaurants hotels and guesthouses A paradise

for pizza and pasta lovers there is even a small Italian-style village with ice-

cream parlours eateries and Italian themed guesthouses Almost immediately

after entering the park we were greeted by the sight of black giant squirrels

and pig tailed macaques clamouring in the canopy all around us Our first stop

was the visitor centre where we picked up a map of the park and other useful

information Outside were several sambar deer picking through restaurant

leftovers The rest of the day was spent exploring spots in which to set up

our cameras the following day We also made the first of several walks to the

observation tower adjacent to Nong Pak Chee reservoir As well as fabulous

views of the park the tower overlooks a saltlick where all manner of wildlife

gathers to suck up vital minerals and nutrients

Day 2Khao Yai is extremely popular with visitors and we could only

book lodging within its borders for the last two days of our trip

This meant an early start so we could get into the park in time to

shoot the sunrise We were the first visitors of the day and drove

to one of the places we had explored the day before We came

across what we thought was one of the many sambar or barking

deer that roam freely around the park We decided to take a

closer look only to find we had stumbled across an Asiatic black

bear half hidden in the morning mist Having spotted us after a

few minutes the handsome creature ambled off into the forest

The dawn had barely broken and our day was already a triumph

The rest of our time was spent following gibbons various varieties

deer and innumerable brightly coloured birds

Day 3Today we were fortunate to be allowed to move

ourselves and our equipment into government-

owned lodgings within the park Our first

mission was to set our cameras up at a place

where we had heard the heavy distinctive

rushing of wings and calls of hornbills (described

by some as sounding like the puffing of a steam

locomotive) the day before

We had expected a long wait but already had

our first shots of this impressive bird in the

can before breakfast We spent many hours

photographing hornbills macaque and other

wildlife

We even stumbled upon a pack of Asian wild

dogs gathered around the carcass of a recently

killed deer We thought our wildlife encounters

for the day were over as we sat down to enjoy

dinner only to be disturbed by scuffling sounds

behind our bungalow The noise was being

made by a pair of porcupines who were not in

the least afraid of us and actually attempted to

chase us away

Day 4The day was spent exploring the trails of Khao Yai and discovering among other wildlife a magnificent

crested serpent eagle As the afternoon drew to a close we decided to take one last trip to the watchtower

From here we witnessed the gathering of a large flock of hornbills We showed some of our footage to a

friendly ranger He was particularly interested in our bear shots We were thrilled to be told that it was very

rare to see a black bear even more so when we were informed that none of the rangers had seen one for

a number of months I decided to leave the tower to find a good place to photograph the sunset Within

a matter of minutes I heard someone scream ldquoBEARrdquo and was back up the stairs in seconds There below

us taking an evening stroll through the grass just metres from where we were perched was another much

younger black bear

Our trip could not have ended better Needless

to say Thai Guru thoroughly recommends a visit

to Khao Yai National Park As already mentioned

the park is popular with both local and foreign

tourists especially on holidays and weekends

We advise that you try to visit during the week

when the park is quieter and the chance of

seeing the amazing wildlife is greater

The park has two camping grounds as well as a

few bungalows that can be booked through the

Department of National Parks Wildlife and Plant

Conservation These need to be booked well

in advance However there are also plenty of

guesthouses and hotels are to be found along

the parkrsquos boundaries

Festival of LanternsThe enchanting atmosphere of Loi Krathong

The weather is cooling down and itrsquos

that time of year again when we all

take to the waterways of Thailand and

give praise to Khongkha the water

Goddess who took care of abundant

rainfall in the past raining season

Donrsquot miss this joyful celebration with

its enchanting atmosphere that brings

one and all in Thailand together

much like Songkran

Thailandrsquos lsquoFestival of Lightsrsquo is celebrated

throughout the kingdom on the night of the

November full moon The end of the rainy

season heralds the coolest months in the

countryrsquos calendar when the river waters are

also supposed to be at their highest

Superstition replaces religion on this night as

thousands flock to the banks of the swollen

rivers and canals to release khratongs floating

tributes to the river spirits and Mother Water ndash

Phra Mae Khongkha In recent years the festival

has been revived in the ancient temples of

Thailandrsquos former capital Sukhothai

Visitors assemble in the Sukhothai Historical

Park with their banana leaf khratongs decorated

with flowers incense sticks and candles to take

part in a ceremony that dates back centuries

Sometimes a coin is added as gift to the spirits

The pretty rafts are then released onto the lake

with a wish

It was once believed that Loi Khratong

was actually created in Sukhothai by Nang

Nopphamas a lady of the court and consort

of the king In fact the celebration was adapted

by Thai Buddhists from a Brahmanical festival

adapted to honour Buddha

The khratong is meant to be a light on the

darkness of the water for Buddha A personrsquos

sins and negative thoughts are also believed to

float away with the colourful little raft Try adding

a lock of your hair for extra luck

Nearly 20 of the Northern provinces will be

showing off a dazzling selection of floats in the

Royal Khratongs Procession as well as holding a

Miss Nopphamat beauty contest

A competition is held for the most beautifully

designed khratong as well as plenty of other

Sukhothai arts and cultural performances

The Light-and-Sound Presentation at Wat

Mahathat explains the history and origins of

Sukhothai and Loi Khratong through dance

music prayer combat displays light effects and

fireworks No Loi Khratong would be complete

without fireworks and thankfully the Thais are

not shy when it comes to blowing things up in

the sky

Tra Kuan pond is the place to be for the floating

of the Royal Khratongs followed by more

firmament-filling pyrotechnics Wat Chana

Songkram is the venue for the Mahachat

sermon Khon Marked Dance and a Thai

classical music performance

Thai Guru decided to travel from Chiang Mai

to Sukhotai for this yearrsquos festivities Although

the heavens decided to open for most of the

celebrations on the final day the rain could not

dampen the celebrations and the spectacle was

jaw dropping

The only thing that was missing due to the rain

was a sky filled with khom loi the sky lanterns

usually released into the firmament in their

hundreds

Although the festivities officially last for the best

part of a week it is the last three days that are

the busiest

Visitors can join in with a range of activities

including fruit carving or just wander around the

historic park listening to live traditional music

watching Thai martial arts or join the parade

of dancers musicians and beauty contestants

all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured

costumes

There are numerous places to stay for the

duration of the festival but it is advisable to

book ahead if you can because this is a very

popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north

from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai Temples

A visit to a temple in Thailand is

unavoidable They are everywhere

We at Thai Guru are well aware that

because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can

quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang

Mai With this in mind (and because

the city is overflowing with hundreds

of them) we have chosen a few of

our favourites we hope are slightly

alternative to the ones on the usual

tourist itinerary

Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to

the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its

latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of

the skills of the local silversmiths Like many

of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was

established several centuries ago The ubosoth

or ordination hall is an intricately designed

silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in

the sunlight

The area around Wua Lai has been the home to

silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past

couple of centuries who are famed throughout

the kingdom for creating detailed embossed

relief patterns on the objects they create

something that is immediately evident and

celebrated at Wat Srisuphan

The larger more traditionally decorated red blue

and gold prayer hall also contains impressive

silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos

life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft

museum

Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the

artisans at work and the temple has its own

silver-working school where apprentices are

trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive

Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved

in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-

robed residents of the temple improve their

linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also

available

Unfortunately women are not allowed to

enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this

is explained on a sign outside the wording of

which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in

the monastic boundary many precious things

incantations amulets and other holy objects

were buried over 500 years ago Entering

inside this area may deteriorated the place or

otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most

of the interior can be appreciated from the

doorway

Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous

for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged

Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai

Due to its being less well advertised than its

neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham

is often a more peaceful temple from which

to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang

Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist

Lent when the place was alive with worshippers

Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once

the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic

giants Following a visit from the Buddha the

giants decided to mend their ways stop eating

their neighbours and convert to Buddhism

For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and

offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the

templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally

constructed towards the end of the 7th century

Although the temple fell into disrepair over the

centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered

a chamber containing a number of Buddha

images The discovery led to the revitalisation of

this mountain top temple

The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are

guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured

sword-wielding warriors The courtyard

overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and

bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of

food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the

road leading to the temple

Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-

west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek

and easily accessible by car or taxi

Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai

was being established the name translates

as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably

because it was used to cast Buddha images for

its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The

entrance to the temple is through a small but

intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos

assembly hall is notable because it is one of the

only viharns of its type constructed solely from

teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a

superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock

astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference

to the king who once used the wooden hall as

his palace The gilded image features mythical

creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured

glass

The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite

from the busy road outside Wooden boxes

contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm

leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a

large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors

Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks

like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a

small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less

imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo

temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru

recommends a quick visit if you are passing

Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous

temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi

Luang

The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the

largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it

was damaged either by an earthquake in the

16th century or cannon fire from the guns

of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese

in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO

funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps

up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga

serpents and a group of five elephants (only the

one without a trunk or ears partially survived

whatever caused the structure to collapse the

others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi

was also once home to one of the most revered

religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald

Buddha Although the original now resides in

Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and

once again looks out over the city from a niche

on the east side of the structure

Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and

now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly

hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance

is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a

great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar

housed in a building at the base of the tree

Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although

one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few

alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed

Mae Hong Son

It is said that Mae Hong Son is the

most authentic and mountainous

province of Thailand For Thai Guru a

good reason to explore this province

side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai

province

Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of

Thailand The northern most part of this

province is at a distance of 924 km from

Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province

in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son

borders Myanmar On the south and east side it

borders Tak and Chiang Mai province

We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast

on the 108 road The scenery is woody and

mountainous so far so good And as we leave

the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek

for wildlife and beautiful landscapes

The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage

is that our average speed drops to less than

15 km hour No worries when you do trips

like these the clock stops and the only thing

on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning

landscapes that unfold before your eyes

The main road is well paved But as you might

understand we regularly go off road

This is the best way to come into contact with

locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo

While we are standing somewhere taking in the

beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a

falcon calling

A short walk through the forrest the sound

stops and we decide to sit down for some

water and well earned rest After a short while I

hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo

There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters

above us a white rumped falcon

Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras

it stays there and even when we start making

noises because we want to film it in flight it

takes itrsquos time

Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of

Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They

cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more

Of course they also have their own cattle And

walking through one of their small villages they

are very friendly and hospitable

It has to be said it is never smart to enter

a community or people with your camera

as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask

the people if they mind if you taking their

photograph or want to film their daily life

In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to

the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean

and offers a nice variety food on the terrace

with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city

where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists

Really nice to stroll down the walking street and

find food or a nice souvenir People are very

friendly as usual

From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae

Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an

average speed of 15 km hour

Halfway we jump out of the car into a river

Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to

keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn

but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around

without it

Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome

us and are gladly willing to allow us to make

photographs and film them

In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early

morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises

For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum

After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark

Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon

So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team

ChinatownBangkok

Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese

people in big cities around the world

Manhattan San Francisco Manilla

Paris and Boston have them and

more keep being officially recognised

in their role as historical and touristic

center every year Even places like

Dubai and Las Vegas have modern

day versions of this phenomenon

As soon as you pass under one of the famous

large red entrance arches you arrive in a

complete different world

A world that is paradise for photographers

A couple of the photographers in the Thai

Guru team decided to spend some time in the

Bangkok version of Chinatown

If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for

some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at

Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim

Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat

SLEEPY NANA dream destination

Relatively unknown and uncrowded

Nan has it all This gem of a province

hides an abundance of cultural and

natural attractions ancient temples

pristine forests rivers mountain

peaks but what strikes you most is

its omnipresent feel of an untroubled

authentic way of life

Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings

you this genuine feel in pictures and footage

For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of

Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant

nature and the nature of its people show

Thailand - as is often said before hordes of

tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas

it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan

managed to escape this proces but will it stay

that way Nan shares most of its border with

neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening

of the border and beyond towards China it is to

be expected that it will ultimately become an

important gateway for trade and tourism

Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town

and the countryside will enchant you and the natural

cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy

for at least a couple of days The town along the banks

of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base

to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night

life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous

temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue

influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The

great surroundings can best be explored by renting a

motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo

Much of the province is devoted to farming

Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still

being practised in areas of the province resulting

in a landscape where forests and fields alternate

Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside

of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature

peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich

natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the

province sees far fewer visitors than popular

neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You

can go white water rafting on the Wa River

along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim

National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay

overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes

Touring Nan

Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern

lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities

of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old

salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via

endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges

and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with

orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers

Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready

to be harvested broke through the green hills

giving a golden hue to the landscape

We encountered friendly villagers who worked

their way through the dry fields - meanwhile

singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to

supplement their meager incomes Despite their

hardship they showed us their heartwarming

hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes

with us

This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi

Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and

sparsely populated that we only passed two

cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos

difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand

nowadays

PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river

The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness

begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over

the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above

the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is

broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices

Then the carved image of a Naga becomes

visible above the water line followed by more

than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted

in red and gold colorshellip

During the year the remote provincial town

of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a

year for the annual spectacle of traditional

Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos

water artery The finals are held over two

days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos

banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite

team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in

Thailand yet relatively unknown

The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long

simple shelters where the massive dragon boats

are housed during the year Just once a year

they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos

most important sporting and social event The

event takes place right after the end of the

rainy season around early November when

water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at

their highest The colorful races are part of the

festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the

last day of Buddhist Lent in October

The narrow boats are made from massive

hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters

in length depending how many paddlers they

are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily

distinguishable by their use of bright colors and

mythical designs in the traditional local style

The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of

each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting

only the good ones to participate in their race

How to get there

Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is

connected by plane and by bus to the rest of

the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan

Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice

each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to

Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to

Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on

the service

Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan

(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8

hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)

The contestants of the races are classified into

three categories mdashlarge medium and small

boats Depending on their length each boat can

accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers

sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the

same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously

against the current to the frantic beating of a

drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern

The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying

their attempt to reach the finish line first and

the paddles churning up the river creates a

spectacular atmosphere

Son

g K

ran

in

Ch

ian

g M

ai

Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of

the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down

in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The

days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing

steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the

hot months of April and May The stifling mid-

day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out

unless necessary The buzz around town about

some festival called Song Kran is starting to

increase an underlying excitement rising

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
  2. Button 4
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  5. next
Page 17: Thaiguru issue10

The founder of the school Mr Chongkol Setthakorn takes over the class for

the serious task of making sure the students have been paying attention and

arenrsquot in the process of giving each other hernias A quick prayer is said and

the real business of bending stretching and joint crunching begins

The students we met had been training for between three and four weeks

However courses at ITM and indeed at schools across Chiang Mai can be

tailored to fit the requirements of anyone who wishes to get involved in an

activity that gives enormous pleasure to both the giver and receiver - as Mr

Settakorn astutely explains ldquoThai Massage is like a thousand gentle waves

washing over the bodyrdquo

ITM ndash International Training Massage School

599 Chang Puak Road

Soi 4 Chor

Sriphum

Muang Chiang Mai

50200 THAILAND

Phone +66-5321-8632

Mobile +66-83-763-1002

Email itmitmthaimassagecom

wwwitmthaimassagecom

Krabi dream destination

After a couple of weeks traveling through

Thailand many are looking for the

perfect location to spend their last days

of their vancation Perfection doesnrsquot

exist but dream destination Krabi is gets

close

Located in the south west of Thailand

Krabi is also thanks to its airport an easy

destination to reach

You will notice the friendly atmosphere in this

area of Thailand right away

A couple of must sees like the Emerald Pond

and the Hot Waterfall are definitely worth your

visit Imagine relaxing in a the hot waterfall

under the exotic trees

And of course an island tour is a must when

you are in Krabi

By boat you can visit Por da Koh Hong Koh Kai

and the famous Pranang cave

Khao Yai National Park

Since establishing Thai Guru Magazine

we have been eager to take our

cameras to Khao Yai National Park

Having visited the area previously

I had already enjoyed the beauty

of Khao Yai and the abundance of

wildlife to be seen there and was keen

to share it with the rest of the team

Finally at the end of January we

jumped in the car for the long drive

south from

Chiang Mai

Three hours northeast of Bangkok Khao Yai

is the oldest and third largest national park

in Thailand Grasslands evergreen forests

monsoon forests and rain forests cover more

than 2000 square kilometres of this Unesco

World Heritage site

The park is teeming with wildlife Mammals

including elephant gibbon barking deer and

guar live within the parkrsquos borders The area

is also home to carnivores such as Asian wild

dogs and tigers as well as numerous reptiles and

amphibians including king cobras pythons and

monitor lizards Nearly 400 species of bird can

be found at Khao Yai Other attractions in this

trekkersrsquo paradise include several large waterfalls

The 20 metre Haew Suwat waterfall with is

deep pool was made famous by the film lsquoThe

Beachrsquo

Day 1The road leading to the gates of Khao Yai National Park is notable for its

numerous Italian influenced restaurants hotels and guesthouses A paradise

for pizza and pasta lovers there is even a small Italian-style village with ice-

cream parlours eateries and Italian themed guesthouses Almost immediately

after entering the park we were greeted by the sight of black giant squirrels

and pig tailed macaques clamouring in the canopy all around us Our first stop

was the visitor centre where we picked up a map of the park and other useful

information Outside were several sambar deer picking through restaurant

leftovers The rest of the day was spent exploring spots in which to set up

our cameras the following day We also made the first of several walks to the

observation tower adjacent to Nong Pak Chee reservoir As well as fabulous

views of the park the tower overlooks a saltlick where all manner of wildlife

gathers to suck up vital minerals and nutrients

Day 2Khao Yai is extremely popular with visitors and we could only

book lodging within its borders for the last two days of our trip

This meant an early start so we could get into the park in time to

shoot the sunrise We were the first visitors of the day and drove

to one of the places we had explored the day before We came

across what we thought was one of the many sambar or barking

deer that roam freely around the park We decided to take a

closer look only to find we had stumbled across an Asiatic black

bear half hidden in the morning mist Having spotted us after a

few minutes the handsome creature ambled off into the forest

The dawn had barely broken and our day was already a triumph

The rest of our time was spent following gibbons various varieties

deer and innumerable brightly coloured birds

Day 3Today we were fortunate to be allowed to move

ourselves and our equipment into government-

owned lodgings within the park Our first

mission was to set our cameras up at a place

where we had heard the heavy distinctive

rushing of wings and calls of hornbills (described

by some as sounding like the puffing of a steam

locomotive) the day before

We had expected a long wait but already had

our first shots of this impressive bird in the

can before breakfast We spent many hours

photographing hornbills macaque and other

wildlife

We even stumbled upon a pack of Asian wild

dogs gathered around the carcass of a recently

killed deer We thought our wildlife encounters

for the day were over as we sat down to enjoy

dinner only to be disturbed by scuffling sounds

behind our bungalow The noise was being

made by a pair of porcupines who were not in

the least afraid of us and actually attempted to

chase us away

Day 4The day was spent exploring the trails of Khao Yai and discovering among other wildlife a magnificent

crested serpent eagle As the afternoon drew to a close we decided to take one last trip to the watchtower

From here we witnessed the gathering of a large flock of hornbills We showed some of our footage to a

friendly ranger He was particularly interested in our bear shots We were thrilled to be told that it was very

rare to see a black bear even more so when we were informed that none of the rangers had seen one for

a number of months I decided to leave the tower to find a good place to photograph the sunset Within

a matter of minutes I heard someone scream ldquoBEARrdquo and was back up the stairs in seconds There below

us taking an evening stroll through the grass just metres from where we were perched was another much

younger black bear

Our trip could not have ended better Needless

to say Thai Guru thoroughly recommends a visit

to Khao Yai National Park As already mentioned

the park is popular with both local and foreign

tourists especially on holidays and weekends

We advise that you try to visit during the week

when the park is quieter and the chance of

seeing the amazing wildlife is greater

The park has two camping grounds as well as a

few bungalows that can be booked through the

Department of National Parks Wildlife and Plant

Conservation These need to be booked well

in advance However there are also plenty of

guesthouses and hotels are to be found along

the parkrsquos boundaries

Festival of LanternsThe enchanting atmosphere of Loi Krathong

The weather is cooling down and itrsquos

that time of year again when we all

take to the waterways of Thailand and

give praise to Khongkha the water

Goddess who took care of abundant

rainfall in the past raining season

Donrsquot miss this joyful celebration with

its enchanting atmosphere that brings

one and all in Thailand together

much like Songkran

Thailandrsquos lsquoFestival of Lightsrsquo is celebrated

throughout the kingdom on the night of the

November full moon The end of the rainy

season heralds the coolest months in the

countryrsquos calendar when the river waters are

also supposed to be at their highest

Superstition replaces religion on this night as

thousands flock to the banks of the swollen

rivers and canals to release khratongs floating

tributes to the river spirits and Mother Water ndash

Phra Mae Khongkha In recent years the festival

has been revived in the ancient temples of

Thailandrsquos former capital Sukhothai

Visitors assemble in the Sukhothai Historical

Park with their banana leaf khratongs decorated

with flowers incense sticks and candles to take

part in a ceremony that dates back centuries

Sometimes a coin is added as gift to the spirits

The pretty rafts are then released onto the lake

with a wish

It was once believed that Loi Khratong

was actually created in Sukhothai by Nang

Nopphamas a lady of the court and consort

of the king In fact the celebration was adapted

by Thai Buddhists from a Brahmanical festival

adapted to honour Buddha

The khratong is meant to be a light on the

darkness of the water for Buddha A personrsquos

sins and negative thoughts are also believed to

float away with the colourful little raft Try adding

a lock of your hair for extra luck

Nearly 20 of the Northern provinces will be

showing off a dazzling selection of floats in the

Royal Khratongs Procession as well as holding a

Miss Nopphamat beauty contest

A competition is held for the most beautifully

designed khratong as well as plenty of other

Sukhothai arts and cultural performances

The Light-and-Sound Presentation at Wat

Mahathat explains the history and origins of

Sukhothai and Loi Khratong through dance

music prayer combat displays light effects and

fireworks No Loi Khratong would be complete

without fireworks and thankfully the Thais are

not shy when it comes to blowing things up in

the sky

Tra Kuan pond is the place to be for the floating

of the Royal Khratongs followed by more

firmament-filling pyrotechnics Wat Chana

Songkram is the venue for the Mahachat

sermon Khon Marked Dance and a Thai

classical music performance

Thai Guru decided to travel from Chiang Mai

to Sukhotai for this yearrsquos festivities Although

the heavens decided to open for most of the

celebrations on the final day the rain could not

dampen the celebrations and the spectacle was

jaw dropping

The only thing that was missing due to the rain

was a sky filled with khom loi the sky lanterns

usually released into the firmament in their

hundreds

Although the festivities officially last for the best

part of a week it is the last three days that are

the busiest

Visitors can join in with a range of activities

including fruit carving or just wander around the

historic park listening to live traditional music

watching Thai martial arts or join the parade

of dancers musicians and beauty contestants

all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured

costumes

There are numerous places to stay for the

duration of the festival but it is advisable to

book ahead if you can because this is a very

popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north

from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai Temples

A visit to a temple in Thailand is

unavoidable They are everywhere

We at Thai Guru are well aware that

because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can

quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang

Mai With this in mind (and because

the city is overflowing with hundreds

of them) we have chosen a few of

our favourites we hope are slightly

alternative to the ones on the usual

tourist itinerary

Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to

the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its

latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of

the skills of the local silversmiths Like many

of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was

established several centuries ago The ubosoth

or ordination hall is an intricately designed

silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in

the sunlight

The area around Wua Lai has been the home to

silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past

couple of centuries who are famed throughout

the kingdom for creating detailed embossed

relief patterns on the objects they create

something that is immediately evident and

celebrated at Wat Srisuphan

The larger more traditionally decorated red blue

and gold prayer hall also contains impressive

silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos

life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft

museum

Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the

artisans at work and the temple has its own

silver-working school where apprentices are

trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive

Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved

in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-

robed residents of the temple improve their

linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also

available

Unfortunately women are not allowed to

enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this

is explained on a sign outside the wording of

which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in

the monastic boundary many precious things

incantations amulets and other holy objects

were buried over 500 years ago Entering

inside this area may deteriorated the place or

otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most

of the interior can be appreciated from the

doorway

Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous

for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged

Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai

Due to its being less well advertised than its

neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham

is often a more peaceful temple from which

to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang

Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist

Lent when the place was alive with worshippers

Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once

the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic

giants Following a visit from the Buddha the

giants decided to mend their ways stop eating

their neighbours and convert to Buddhism

For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and

offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the

templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally

constructed towards the end of the 7th century

Although the temple fell into disrepair over the

centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered

a chamber containing a number of Buddha

images The discovery led to the revitalisation of

this mountain top temple

The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are

guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured

sword-wielding warriors The courtyard

overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and

bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of

food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the

road leading to the temple

Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-

west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek

and easily accessible by car or taxi

Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai

was being established the name translates

as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably

because it was used to cast Buddha images for

its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The

entrance to the temple is through a small but

intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos

assembly hall is notable because it is one of the

only viharns of its type constructed solely from

teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a

superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock

astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference

to the king who once used the wooden hall as

his palace The gilded image features mythical

creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured

glass

The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite

from the busy road outside Wooden boxes

contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm

leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a

large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors

Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks

like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a

small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less

imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo

temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru

recommends a quick visit if you are passing

Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous

temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi

Luang

The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the

largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it

was damaged either by an earthquake in the

16th century or cannon fire from the guns

of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese

in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO

funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps

up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga

serpents and a group of five elephants (only the

one without a trunk or ears partially survived

whatever caused the structure to collapse the

others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi

was also once home to one of the most revered

religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald

Buddha Although the original now resides in

Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and

once again looks out over the city from a niche

on the east side of the structure

Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and

now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly

hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance

is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a

great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar

housed in a building at the base of the tree

Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although

one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few

alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed

Mae Hong Son

It is said that Mae Hong Son is the

most authentic and mountainous

province of Thailand For Thai Guru a

good reason to explore this province

side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai

province

Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of

Thailand The northern most part of this

province is at a distance of 924 km from

Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province

in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son

borders Myanmar On the south and east side it

borders Tak and Chiang Mai province

We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast

on the 108 road The scenery is woody and

mountainous so far so good And as we leave

the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek

for wildlife and beautiful landscapes

The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage

is that our average speed drops to less than

15 km hour No worries when you do trips

like these the clock stops and the only thing

on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning

landscapes that unfold before your eyes

The main road is well paved But as you might

understand we regularly go off road

This is the best way to come into contact with

locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo

While we are standing somewhere taking in the

beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a

falcon calling

A short walk through the forrest the sound

stops and we decide to sit down for some

water and well earned rest After a short while I

hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo

There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters

above us a white rumped falcon

Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras

it stays there and even when we start making

noises because we want to film it in flight it

takes itrsquos time

Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of

Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They

cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more

Of course they also have their own cattle And

walking through one of their small villages they

are very friendly and hospitable

It has to be said it is never smart to enter

a community or people with your camera

as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask

the people if they mind if you taking their

photograph or want to film their daily life

In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to

the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean

and offers a nice variety food on the terrace

with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city

where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists

Really nice to stroll down the walking street and

find food or a nice souvenir People are very

friendly as usual

From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae

Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an

average speed of 15 km hour

Halfway we jump out of the car into a river

Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to

keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn

but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around

without it

Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome

us and are gladly willing to allow us to make

photographs and film them

In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early

morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises

For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum

After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark

Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon

So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team

ChinatownBangkok

Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese

people in big cities around the world

Manhattan San Francisco Manilla

Paris and Boston have them and

more keep being officially recognised

in their role as historical and touristic

center every year Even places like

Dubai and Las Vegas have modern

day versions of this phenomenon

As soon as you pass under one of the famous

large red entrance arches you arrive in a

complete different world

A world that is paradise for photographers

A couple of the photographers in the Thai

Guru team decided to spend some time in the

Bangkok version of Chinatown

If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for

some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at

Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim

Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat

SLEEPY NANA dream destination

Relatively unknown and uncrowded

Nan has it all This gem of a province

hides an abundance of cultural and

natural attractions ancient temples

pristine forests rivers mountain

peaks but what strikes you most is

its omnipresent feel of an untroubled

authentic way of life

Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings

you this genuine feel in pictures and footage

For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of

Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant

nature and the nature of its people show

Thailand - as is often said before hordes of

tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas

it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan

managed to escape this proces but will it stay

that way Nan shares most of its border with

neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening

of the border and beyond towards China it is to

be expected that it will ultimately become an

important gateway for trade and tourism

Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town

and the countryside will enchant you and the natural

cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy

for at least a couple of days The town along the banks

of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base

to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night

life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous

temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue

influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The

great surroundings can best be explored by renting a

motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo

Much of the province is devoted to farming

Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still

being practised in areas of the province resulting

in a landscape where forests and fields alternate

Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside

of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature

peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich

natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the

province sees far fewer visitors than popular

neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You

can go white water rafting on the Wa River

along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim

National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay

overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes

Touring Nan

Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern

lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities

of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old

salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via

endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges

and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with

orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers

Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready

to be harvested broke through the green hills

giving a golden hue to the landscape

We encountered friendly villagers who worked

their way through the dry fields - meanwhile

singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to

supplement their meager incomes Despite their

hardship they showed us their heartwarming

hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes

with us

This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi

Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and

sparsely populated that we only passed two

cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos

difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand

nowadays

PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river

The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness

begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over

the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above

the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is

broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices

Then the carved image of a Naga becomes

visible above the water line followed by more

than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted

in red and gold colorshellip

During the year the remote provincial town

of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a

year for the annual spectacle of traditional

Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos

water artery The finals are held over two

days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos

banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite

team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in

Thailand yet relatively unknown

The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long

simple shelters where the massive dragon boats

are housed during the year Just once a year

they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos

most important sporting and social event The

event takes place right after the end of the

rainy season around early November when

water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at

their highest The colorful races are part of the

festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the

last day of Buddhist Lent in October

The narrow boats are made from massive

hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters

in length depending how many paddlers they

are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily

distinguishable by their use of bright colors and

mythical designs in the traditional local style

The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of

each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting

only the good ones to participate in their race

How to get there

Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is

connected by plane and by bus to the rest of

the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan

Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice

each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to

Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to

Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on

the service

Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan

(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8

hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)

The contestants of the races are classified into

three categories mdashlarge medium and small

boats Depending on their length each boat can

accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers

sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the

same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously

against the current to the frantic beating of a

drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern

The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying

their attempt to reach the finish line first and

the paddles churning up the river creates a

spectacular atmosphere

Son

g K

ran

in

Ch

ian

g M

ai

Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of

the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down

in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The

days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing

steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the

hot months of April and May The stifling mid-

day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out

unless necessary The buzz around town about

some festival called Song Kran is starting to

increase an underlying excitement rising

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
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  5. next
Page 18: Thaiguru issue10

Krabi dream destination

After a couple of weeks traveling through

Thailand many are looking for the

perfect location to spend their last days

of their vancation Perfection doesnrsquot

exist but dream destination Krabi is gets

close

Located in the south west of Thailand

Krabi is also thanks to its airport an easy

destination to reach

You will notice the friendly atmosphere in this

area of Thailand right away

A couple of must sees like the Emerald Pond

and the Hot Waterfall are definitely worth your

visit Imagine relaxing in a the hot waterfall

under the exotic trees

And of course an island tour is a must when

you are in Krabi

By boat you can visit Por da Koh Hong Koh Kai

and the famous Pranang cave

Khao Yai National Park

Since establishing Thai Guru Magazine

we have been eager to take our

cameras to Khao Yai National Park

Having visited the area previously

I had already enjoyed the beauty

of Khao Yai and the abundance of

wildlife to be seen there and was keen

to share it with the rest of the team

Finally at the end of January we

jumped in the car for the long drive

south from

Chiang Mai

Three hours northeast of Bangkok Khao Yai

is the oldest and third largest national park

in Thailand Grasslands evergreen forests

monsoon forests and rain forests cover more

than 2000 square kilometres of this Unesco

World Heritage site

The park is teeming with wildlife Mammals

including elephant gibbon barking deer and

guar live within the parkrsquos borders The area

is also home to carnivores such as Asian wild

dogs and tigers as well as numerous reptiles and

amphibians including king cobras pythons and

monitor lizards Nearly 400 species of bird can

be found at Khao Yai Other attractions in this

trekkersrsquo paradise include several large waterfalls

The 20 metre Haew Suwat waterfall with is

deep pool was made famous by the film lsquoThe

Beachrsquo

Day 1The road leading to the gates of Khao Yai National Park is notable for its

numerous Italian influenced restaurants hotels and guesthouses A paradise

for pizza and pasta lovers there is even a small Italian-style village with ice-

cream parlours eateries and Italian themed guesthouses Almost immediately

after entering the park we were greeted by the sight of black giant squirrels

and pig tailed macaques clamouring in the canopy all around us Our first stop

was the visitor centre where we picked up a map of the park and other useful

information Outside were several sambar deer picking through restaurant

leftovers The rest of the day was spent exploring spots in which to set up

our cameras the following day We also made the first of several walks to the

observation tower adjacent to Nong Pak Chee reservoir As well as fabulous

views of the park the tower overlooks a saltlick where all manner of wildlife

gathers to suck up vital minerals and nutrients

Day 2Khao Yai is extremely popular with visitors and we could only

book lodging within its borders for the last two days of our trip

This meant an early start so we could get into the park in time to

shoot the sunrise We were the first visitors of the day and drove

to one of the places we had explored the day before We came

across what we thought was one of the many sambar or barking

deer that roam freely around the park We decided to take a

closer look only to find we had stumbled across an Asiatic black

bear half hidden in the morning mist Having spotted us after a

few minutes the handsome creature ambled off into the forest

The dawn had barely broken and our day was already a triumph

The rest of our time was spent following gibbons various varieties

deer and innumerable brightly coloured birds

Day 3Today we were fortunate to be allowed to move

ourselves and our equipment into government-

owned lodgings within the park Our first

mission was to set our cameras up at a place

where we had heard the heavy distinctive

rushing of wings and calls of hornbills (described

by some as sounding like the puffing of a steam

locomotive) the day before

We had expected a long wait but already had

our first shots of this impressive bird in the

can before breakfast We spent many hours

photographing hornbills macaque and other

wildlife

We even stumbled upon a pack of Asian wild

dogs gathered around the carcass of a recently

killed deer We thought our wildlife encounters

for the day were over as we sat down to enjoy

dinner only to be disturbed by scuffling sounds

behind our bungalow The noise was being

made by a pair of porcupines who were not in

the least afraid of us and actually attempted to

chase us away

Day 4The day was spent exploring the trails of Khao Yai and discovering among other wildlife a magnificent

crested serpent eagle As the afternoon drew to a close we decided to take one last trip to the watchtower

From here we witnessed the gathering of a large flock of hornbills We showed some of our footage to a

friendly ranger He was particularly interested in our bear shots We were thrilled to be told that it was very

rare to see a black bear even more so when we were informed that none of the rangers had seen one for

a number of months I decided to leave the tower to find a good place to photograph the sunset Within

a matter of minutes I heard someone scream ldquoBEARrdquo and was back up the stairs in seconds There below

us taking an evening stroll through the grass just metres from where we were perched was another much

younger black bear

Our trip could not have ended better Needless

to say Thai Guru thoroughly recommends a visit

to Khao Yai National Park As already mentioned

the park is popular with both local and foreign

tourists especially on holidays and weekends

We advise that you try to visit during the week

when the park is quieter and the chance of

seeing the amazing wildlife is greater

The park has two camping grounds as well as a

few bungalows that can be booked through the

Department of National Parks Wildlife and Plant

Conservation These need to be booked well

in advance However there are also plenty of

guesthouses and hotels are to be found along

the parkrsquos boundaries

Festival of LanternsThe enchanting atmosphere of Loi Krathong

The weather is cooling down and itrsquos

that time of year again when we all

take to the waterways of Thailand and

give praise to Khongkha the water

Goddess who took care of abundant

rainfall in the past raining season

Donrsquot miss this joyful celebration with

its enchanting atmosphere that brings

one and all in Thailand together

much like Songkran

Thailandrsquos lsquoFestival of Lightsrsquo is celebrated

throughout the kingdom on the night of the

November full moon The end of the rainy

season heralds the coolest months in the

countryrsquos calendar when the river waters are

also supposed to be at their highest

Superstition replaces religion on this night as

thousands flock to the banks of the swollen

rivers and canals to release khratongs floating

tributes to the river spirits and Mother Water ndash

Phra Mae Khongkha In recent years the festival

has been revived in the ancient temples of

Thailandrsquos former capital Sukhothai

Visitors assemble in the Sukhothai Historical

Park with their banana leaf khratongs decorated

with flowers incense sticks and candles to take

part in a ceremony that dates back centuries

Sometimes a coin is added as gift to the spirits

The pretty rafts are then released onto the lake

with a wish

It was once believed that Loi Khratong

was actually created in Sukhothai by Nang

Nopphamas a lady of the court and consort

of the king In fact the celebration was adapted

by Thai Buddhists from a Brahmanical festival

adapted to honour Buddha

The khratong is meant to be a light on the

darkness of the water for Buddha A personrsquos

sins and negative thoughts are also believed to

float away with the colourful little raft Try adding

a lock of your hair for extra luck

Nearly 20 of the Northern provinces will be

showing off a dazzling selection of floats in the

Royal Khratongs Procession as well as holding a

Miss Nopphamat beauty contest

A competition is held for the most beautifully

designed khratong as well as plenty of other

Sukhothai arts and cultural performances

The Light-and-Sound Presentation at Wat

Mahathat explains the history and origins of

Sukhothai and Loi Khratong through dance

music prayer combat displays light effects and

fireworks No Loi Khratong would be complete

without fireworks and thankfully the Thais are

not shy when it comes to blowing things up in

the sky

Tra Kuan pond is the place to be for the floating

of the Royal Khratongs followed by more

firmament-filling pyrotechnics Wat Chana

Songkram is the venue for the Mahachat

sermon Khon Marked Dance and a Thai

classical music performance

Thai Guru decided to travel from Chiang Mai

to Sukhotai for this yearrsquos festivities Although

the heavens decided to open for most of the

celebrations on the final day the rain could not

dampen the celebrations and the spectacle was

jaw dropping

The only thing that was missing due to the rain

was a sky filled with khom loi the sky lanterns

usually released into the firmament in their

hundreds

Although the festivities officially last for the best

part of a week it is the last three days that are

the busiest

Visitors can join in with a range of activities

including fruit carving or just wander around the

historic park listening to live traditional music

watching Thai martial arts or join the parade

of dancers musicians and beauty contestants

all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured

costumes

There are numerous places to stay for the

duration of the festival but it is advisable to

book ahead if you can because this is a very

popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north

from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai Temples

A visit to a temple in Thailand is

unavoidable They are everywhere

We at Thai Guru are well aware that

because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can

quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang

Mai With this in mind (and because

the city is overflowing with hundreds

of them) we have chosen a few of

our favourites we hope are slightly

alternative to the ones on the usual

tourist itinerary

Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to

the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its

latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of

the skills of the local silversmiths Like many

of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was

established several centuries ago The ubosoth

or ordination hall is an intricately designed

silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in

the sunlight

The area around Wua Lai has been the home to

silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past

couple of centuries who are famed throughout

the kingdom for creating detailed embossed

relief patterns on the objects they create

something that is immediately evident and

celebrated at Wat Srisuphan

The larger more traditionally decorated red blue

and gold prayer hall also contains impressive

silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos

life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft

museum

Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the

artisans at work and the temple has its own

silver-working school where apprentices are

trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive

Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved

in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-

robed residents of the temple improve their

linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also

available

Unfortunately women are not allowed to

enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this

is explained on a sign outside the wording of

which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in

the monastic boundary many precious things

incantations amulets and other holy objects

were buried over 500 years ago Entering

inside this area may deteriorated the place or

otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most

of the interior can be appreciated from the

doorway

Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous

for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged

Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai

Due to its being less well advertised than its

neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham

is often a more peaceful temple from which

to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang

Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist

Lent when the place was alive with worshippers

Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once

the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic

giants Following a visit from the Buddha the

giants decided to mend their ways stop eating

their neighbours and convert to Buddhism

For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and

offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the

templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally

constructed towards the end of the 7th century

Although the temple fell into disrepair over the

centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered

a chamber containing a number of Buddha

images The discovery led to the revitalisation of

this mountain top temple

The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are

guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured

sword-wielding warriors The courtyard

overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and

bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of

food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the

road leading to the temple

Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-

west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek

and easily accessible by car or taxi

Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai

was being established the name translates

as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably

because it was used to cast Buddha images for

its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The

entrance to the temple is through a small but

intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos

assembly hall is notable because it is one of the

only viharns of its type constructed solely from

teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a

superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock

astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference

to the king who once used the wooden hall as

his palace The gilded image features mythical

creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured

glass

The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite

from the busy road outside Wooden boxes

contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm

leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a

large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors

Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks

like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a

small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less

imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo

temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru

recommends a quick visit if you are passing

Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous

temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi

Luang

The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the

largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it

was damaged either by an earthquake in the

16th century or cannon fire from the guns

of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese

in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO

funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps

up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga

serpents and a group of five elephants (only the

one without a trunk or ears partially survived

whatever caused the structure to collapse the

others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi

was also once home to one of the most revered

religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald

Buddha Although the original now resides in

Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and

once again looks out over the city from a niche

on the east side of the structure

Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and

now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly

hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance

is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a

great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar

housed in a building at the base of the tree

Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although

one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few

alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed

Mae Hong Son

It is said that Mae Hong Son is the

most authentic and mountainous

province of Thailand For Thai Guru a

good reason to explore this province

side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai

province

Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of

Thailand The northern most part of this

province is at a distance of 924 km from

Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province

in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son

borders Myanmar On the south and east side it

borders Tak and Chiang Mai province

We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast

on the 108 road The scenery is woody and

mountainous so far so good And as we leave

the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek

for wildlife and beautiful landscapes

The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage

is that our average speed drops to less than

15 km hour No worries when you do trips

like these the clock stops and the only thing

on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning

landscapes that unfold before your eyes

The main road is well paved But as you might

understand we regularly go off road

This is the best way to come into contact with

locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo

While we are standing somewhere taking in the

beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a

falcon calling

A short walk through the forrest the sound

stops and we decide to sit down for some

water and well earned rest After a short while I

hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo

There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters

above us a white rumped falcon

Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras

it stays there and even when we start making

noises because we want to film it in flight it

takes itrsquos time

Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of

Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They

cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more

Of course they also have their own cattle And

walking through one of their small villages they

are very friendly and hospitable

It has to be said it is never smart to enter

a community or people with your camera

as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask

the people if they mind if you taking their

photograph or want to film their daily life

In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to

the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean

and offers a nice variety food on the terrace

with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city

where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists

Really nice to stroll down the walking street and

find food or a nice souvenir People are very

friendly as usual

From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae

Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an

average speed of 15 km hour

Halfway we jump out of the car into a river

Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to

keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn

but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around

without it

Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome

us and are gladly willing to allow us to make

photographs and film them

In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early

morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises

For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum

After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark

Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon

So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team

ChinatownBangkok

Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese

people in big cities around the world

Manhattan San Francisco Manilla

Paris and Boston have them and

more keep being officially recognised

in their role as historical and touristic

center every year Even places like

Dubai and Las Vegas have modern

day versions of this phenomenon

As soon as you pass under one of the famous

large red entrance arches you arrive in a

complete different world

A world that is paradise for photographers

A couple of the photographers in the Thai

Guru team decided to spend some time in the

Bangkok version of Chinatown

If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for

some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at

Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim

Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat

SLEEPY NANA dream destination

Relatively unknown and uncrowded

Nan has it all This gem of a province

hides an abundance of cultural and

natural attractions ancient temples

pristine forests rivers mountain

peaks but what strikes you most is

its omnipresent feel of an untroubled

authentic way of life

Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings

you this genuine feel in pictures and footage

For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of

Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant

nature and the nature of its people show

Thailand - as is often said before hordes of

tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas

it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan

managed to escape this proces but will it stay

that way Nan shares most of its border with

neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening

of the border and beyond towards China it is to

be expected that it will ultimately become an

important gateway for trade and tourism

Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town

and the countryside will enchant you and the natural

cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy

for at least a couple of days The town along the banks

of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base

to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night

life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous

temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue

influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The

great surroundings can best be explored by renting a

motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo

Much of the province is devoted to farming

Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still

being practised in areas of the province resulting

in a landscape where forests and fields alternate

Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside

of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature

peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich

natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the

province sees far fewer visitors than popular

neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You

can go white water rafting on the Wa River

along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim

National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay

overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes

Touring Nan

Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern

lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities

of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old

salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via

endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges

and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with

orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers

Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready

to be harvested broke through the green hills

giving a golden hue to the landscape

We encountered friendly villagers who worked

their way through the dry fields - meanwhile

singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to

supplement their meager incomes Despite their

hardship they showed us their heartwarming

hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes

with us

This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi

Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and

sparsely populated that we only passed two

cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos

difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand

nowadays

PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river

The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness

begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over

the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above

the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is

broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices

Then the carved image of a Naga becomes

visible above the water line followed by more

than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted

in red and gold colorshellip

During the year the remote provincial town

of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a

year for the annual spectacle of traditional

Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos

water artery The finals are held over two

days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos

banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite

team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in

Thailand yet relatively unknown

The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long

simple shelters where the massive dragon boats

are housed during the year Just once a year

they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos

most important sporting and social event The

event takes place right after the end of the

rainy season around early November when

water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at

their highest The colorful races are part of the

festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the

last day of Buddhist Lent in October

The narrow boats are made from massive

hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters

in length depending how many paddlers they

are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily

distinguishable by their use of bright colors and

mythical designs in the traditional local style

The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of

each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting

only the good ones to participate in their race

How to get there

Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is

connected by plane and by bus to the rest of

the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan

Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice

each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to

Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to

Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on

the service

Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan

(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8

hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)

The contestants of the races are classified into

three categories mdashlarge medium and small

boats Depending on their length each boat can

accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers

sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the

same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously

against the current to the frantic beating of a

drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern

The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying

their attempt to reach the finish line first and

the paddles churning up the river creates a

spectacular atmosphere

Son

g K

ran

in

Ch

ian

g M

ai

Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of

the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down

in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The

days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing

steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the

hot months of April and May The stifling mid-

day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out

unless necessary The buzz around town about

some festival called Song Kran is starting to

increase an underlying excitement rising

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

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  1. Button 3
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Page 19: Thaiguru issue10

After a couple of weeks traveling through

Thailand many are looking for the

perfect location to spend their last days

of their vancation Perfection doesnrsquot

exist but dream destination Krabi is gets

close

Located in the south west of Thailand

Krabi is also thanks to its airport an easy

destination to reach

You will notice the friendly atmosphere in this

area of Thailand right away

A couple of must sees like the Emerald Pond

and the Hot Waterfall are definitely worth your

visit Imagine relaxing in a the hot waterfall

under the exotic trees

And of course an island tour is a must when

you are in Krabi

By boat you can visit Por da Koh Hong Koh Kai

and the famous Pranang cave

Khao Yai National Park

Since establishing Thai Guru Magazine

we have been eager to take our

cameras to Khao Yai National Park

Having visited the area previously

I had already enjoyed the beauty

of Khao Yai and the abundance of

wildlife to be seen there and was keen

to share it with the rest of the team

Finally at the end of January we

jumped in the car for the long drive

south from

Chiang Mai

Three hours northeast of Bangkok Khao Yai

is the oldest and third largest national park

in Thailand Grasslands evergreen forests

monsoon forests and rain forests cover more

than 2000 square kilometres of this Unesco

World Heritage site

The park is teeming with wildlife Mammals

including elephant gibbon barking deer and

guar live within the parkrsquos borders The area

is also home to carnivores such as Asian wild

dogs and tigers as well as numerous reptiles and

amphibians including king cobras pythons and

monitor lizards Nearly 400 species of bird can

be found at Khao Yai Other attractions in this

trekkersrsquo paradise include several large waterfalls

The 20 metre Haew Suwat waterfall with is

deep pool was made famous by the film lsquoThe

Beachrsquo

Day 1The road leading to the gates of Khao Yai National Park is notable for its

numerous Italian influenced restaurants hotels and guesthouses A paradise

for pizza and pasta lovers there is even a small Italian-style village with ice-

cream parlours eateries and Italian themed guesthouses Almost immediately

after entering the park we were greeted by the sight of black giant squirrels

and pig tailed macaques clamouring in the canopy all around us Our first stop

was the visitor centre where we picked up a map of the park and other useful

information Outside were several sambar deer picking through restaurant

leftovers The rest of the day was spent exploring spots in which to set up

our cameras the following day We also made the first of several walks to the

observation tower adjacent to Nong Pak Chee reservoir As well as fabulous

views of the park the tower overlooks a saltlick where all manner of wildlife

gathers to suck up vital minerals and nutrients

Day 2Khao Yai is extremely popular with visitors and we could only

book lodging within its borders for the last two days of our trip

This meant an early start so we could get into the park in time to

shoot the sunrise We were the first visitors of the day and drove

to one of the places we had explored the day before We came

across what we thought was one of the many sambar or barking

deer that roam freely around the park We decided to take a

closer look only to find we had stumbled across an Asiatic black

bear half hidden in the morning mist Having spotted us after a

few minutes the handsome creature ambled off into the forest

The dawn had barely broken and our day was already a triumph

The rest of our time was spent following gibbons various varieties

deer and innumerable brightly coloured birds

Day 3Today we were fortunate to be allowed to move

ourselves and our equipment into government-

owned lodgings within the park Our first

mission was to set our cameras up at a place

where we had heard the heavy distinctive

rushing of wings and calls of hornbills (described

by some as sounding like the puffing of a steam

locomotive) the day before

We had expected a long wait but already had

our first shots of this impressive bird in the

can before breakfast We spent many hours

photographing hornbills macaque and other

wildlife

We even stumbled upon a pack of Asian wild

dogs gathered around the carcass of a recently

killed deer We thought our wildlife encounters

for the day were over as we sat down to enjoy

dinner only to be disturbed by scuffling sounds

behind our bungalow The noise was being

made by a pair of porcupines who were not in

the least afraid of us and actually attempted to

chase us away

Day 4The day was spent exploring the trails of Khao Yai and discovering among other wildlife a magnificent

crested serpent eagle As the afternoon drew to a close we decided to take one last trip to the watchtower

From here we witnessed the gathering of a large flock of hornbills We showed some of our footage to a

friendly ranger He was particularly interested in our bear shots We were thrilled to be told that it was very

rare to see a black bear even more so when we were informed that none of the rangers had seen one for

a number of months I decided to leave the tower to find a good place to photograph the sunset Within

a matter of minutes I heard someone scream ldquoBEARrdquo and was back up the stairs in seconds There below

us taking an evening stroll through the grass just metres from where we were perched was another much

younger black bear

Our trip could not have ended better Needless

to say Thai Guru thoroughly recommends a visit

to Khao Yai National Park As already mentioned

the park is popular with both local and foreign

tourists especially on holidays and weekends

We advise that you try to visit during the week

when the park is quieter and the chance of

seeing the amazing wildlife is greater

The park has two camping grounds as well as a

few bungalows that can be booked through the

Department of National Parks Wildlife and Plant

Conservation These need to be booked well

in advance However there are also plenty of

guesthouses and hotels are to be found along

the parkrsquos boundaries

Festival of LanternsThe enchanting atmosphere of Loi Krathong

The weather is cooling down and itrsquos

that time of year again when we all

take to the waterways of Thailand and

give praise to Khongkha the water

Goddess who took care of abundant

rainfall in the past raining season

Donrsquot miss this joyful celebration with

its enchanting atmosphere that brings

one and all in Thailand together

much like Songkran

Thailandrsquos lsquoFestival of Lightsrsquo is celebrated

throughout the kingdom on the night of the

November full moon The end of the rainy

season heralds the coolest months in the

countryrsquos calendar when the river waters are

also supposed to be at their highest

Superstition replaces religion on this night as

thousands flock to the banks of the swollen

rivers and canals to release khratongs floating

tributes to the river spirits and Mother Water ndash

Phra Mae Khongkha In recent years the festival

has been revived in the ancient temples of

Thailandrsquos former capital Sukhothai

Visitors assemble in the Sukhothai Historical

Park with their banana leaf khratongs decorated

with flowers incense sticks and candles to take

part in a ceremony that dates back centuries

Sometimes a coin is added as gift to the spirits

The pretty rafts are then released onto the lake

with a wish

It was once believed that Loi Khratong

was actually created in Sukhothai by Nang

Nopphamas a lady of the court and consort

of the king In fact the celebration was adapted

by Thai Buddhists from a Brahmanical festival

adapted to honour Buddha

The khratong is meant to be a light on the

darkness of the water for Buddha A personrsquos

sins and negative thoughts are also believed to

float away with the colourful little raft Try adding

a lock of your hair for extra luck

Nearly 20 of the Northern provinces will be

showing off a dazzling selection of floats in the

Royal Khratongs Procession as well as holding a

Miss Nopphamat beauty contest

A competition is held for the most beautifully

designed khratong as well as plenty of other

Sukhothai arts and cultural performances

The Light-and-Sound Presentation at Wat

Mahathat explains the history and origins of

Sukhothai and Loi Khratong through dance

music prayer combat displays light effects and

fireworks No Loi Khratong would be complete

without fireworks and thankfully the Thais are

not shy when it comes to blowing things up in

the sky

Tra Kuan pond is the place to be for the floating

of the Royal Khratongs followed by more

firmament-filling pyrotechnics Wat Chana

Songkram is the venue for the Mahachat

sermon Khon Marked Dance and a Thai

classical music performance

Thai Guru decided to travel from Chiang Mai

to Sukhotai for this yearrsquos festivities Although

the heavens decided to open for most of the

celebrations on the final day the rain could not

dampen the celebrations and the spectacle was

jaw dropping

The only thing that was missing due to the rain

was a sky filled with khom loi the sky lanterns

usually released into the firmament in their

hundreds

Although the festivities officially last for the best

part of a week it is the last three days that are

the busiest

Visitors can join in with a range of activities

including fruit carving or just wander around the

historic park listening to live traditional music

watching Thai martial arts or join the parade

of dancers musicians and beauty contestants

all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured

costumes

There are numerous places to stay for the

duration of the festival but it is advisable to

book ahead if you can because this is a very

popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north

from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai Temples

A visit to a temple in Thailand is

unavoidable They are everywhere

We at Thai Guru are well aware that

because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can

quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang

Mai With this in mind (and because

the city is overflowing with hundreds

of them) we have chosen a few of

our favourites we hope are slightly

alternative to the ones on the usual

tourist itinerary

Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to

the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its

latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of

the skills of the local silversmiths Like many

of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was

established several centuries ago The ubosoth

or ordination hall is an intricately designed

silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in

the sunlight

The area around Wua Lai has been the home to

silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past

couple of centuries who are famed throughout

the kingdom for creating detailed embossed

relief patterns on the objects they create

something that is immediately evident and

celebrated at Wat Srisuphan

The larger more traditionally decorated red blue

and gold prayer hall also contains impressive

silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos

life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft

museum

Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the

artisans at work and the temple has its own

silver-working school where apprentices are

trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive

Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved

in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-

robed residents of the temple improve their

linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also

available

Unfortunately women are not allowed to

enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this

is explained on a sign outside the wording of

which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in

the monastic boundary many precious things

incantations amulets and other holy objects

were buried over 500 years ago Entering

inside this area may deteriorated the place or

otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most

of the interior can be appreciated from the

doorway

Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous

for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged

Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai

Due to its being less well advertised than its

neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham

is often a more peaceful temple from which

to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang

Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist

Lent when the place was alive with worshippers

Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once

the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic

giants Following a visit from the Buddha the

giants decided to mend their ways stop eating

their neighbours and convert to Buddhism

For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and

offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the

templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally

constructed towards the end of the 7th century

Although the temple fell into disrepair over the

centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered

a chamber containing a number of Buddha

images The discovery led to the revitalisation of

this mountain top temple

The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are

guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured

sword-wielding warriors The courtyard

overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and

bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of

food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the

road leading to the temple

Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-

west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek

and easily accessible by car or taxi

Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai

was being established the name translates

as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably

because it was used to cast Buddha images for

its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The

entrance to the temple is through a small but

intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos

assembly hall is notable because it is one of the

only viharns of its type constructed solely from

teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a

superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock

astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference

to the king who once used the wooden hall as

his palace The gilded image features mythical

creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured

glass

The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite

from the busy road outside Wooden boxes

contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm

leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a

large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors

Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks

like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a

small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less

imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo

temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru

recommends a quick visit if you are passing

Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous

temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi

Luang

The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the

largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it

was damaged either by an earthquake in the

16th century or cannon fire from the guns

of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese

in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO

funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps

up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga

serpents and a group of five elephants (only the

one without a trunk or ears partially survived

whatever caused the structure to collapse the

others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi

was also once home to one of the most revered

religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald

Buddha Although the original now resides in

Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and

once again looks out over the city from a niche

on the east side of the structure

Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and

now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly

hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance

is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a

great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar

housed in a building at the base of the tree

Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although

one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few

alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed

Mae Hong Son

It is said that Mae Hong Son is the

most authentic and mountainous

province of Thailand For Thai Guru a

good reason to explore this province

side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai

province

Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of

Thailand The northern most part of this

province is at a distance of 924 km from

Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province

in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son

borders Myanmar On the south and east side it

borders Tak and Chiang Mai province

We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast

on the 108 road The scenery is woody and

mountainous so far so good And as we leave

the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek

for wildlife and beautiful landscapes

The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage

is that our average speed drops to less than

15 km hour No worries when you do trips

like these the clock stops and the only thing

on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning

landscapes that unfold before your eyes

The main road is well paved But as you might

understand we regularly go off road

This is the best way to come into contact with

locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo

While we are standing somewhere taking in the

beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a

falcon calling

A short walk through the forrest the sound

stops and we decide to sit down for some

water and well earned rest After a short while I

hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo

There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters

above us a white rumped falcon

Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras

it stays there and even when we start making

noises because we want to film it in flight it

takes itrsquos time

Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of

Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They

cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more

Of course they also have their own cattle And

walking through one of their small villages they

are very friendly and hospitable

It has to be said it is never smart to enter

a community or people with your camera

as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask

the people if they mind if you taking their

photograph or want to film their daily life

In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to

the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean

and offers a nice variety food on the terrace

with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city

where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists

Really nice to stroll down the walking street and

find food or a nice souvenir People are very

friendly as usual

From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae

Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an

average speed of 15 km hour

Halfway we jump out of the car into a river

Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to

keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn

but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around

without it

Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome

us and are gladly willing to allow us to make

photographs and film them

In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early

morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises

For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum

After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark

Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon

So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team

ChinatownBangkok

Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese

people in big cities around the world

Manhattan San Francisco Manilla

Paris and Boston have them and

more keep being officially recognised

in their role as historical and touristic

center every year Even places like

Dubai and Las Vegas have modern

day versions of this phenomenon

As soon as you pass under one of the famous

large red entrance arches you arrive in a

complete different world

A world that is paradise for photographers

A couple of the photographers in the Thai

Guru team decided to spend some time in the

Bangkok version of Chinatown

If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for

some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at

Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim

Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat

SLEEPY NANA dream destination

Relatively unknown and uncrowded

Nan has it all This gem of a province

hides an abundance of cultural and

natural attractions ancient temples

pristine forests rivers mountain

peaks but what strikes you most is

its omnipresent feel of an untroubled

authentic way of life

Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings

you this genuine feel in pictures and footage

For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of

Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant

nature and the nature of its people show

Thailand - as is often said before hordes of

tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas

it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan

managed to escape this proces but will it stay

that way Nan shares most of its border with

neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening

of the border and beyond towards China it is to

be expected that it will ultimately become an

important gateway for trade and tourism

Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town

and the countryside will enchant you and the natural

cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy

for at least a couple of days The town along the banks

of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base

to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night

life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous

temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue

influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The

great surroundings can best be explored by renting a

motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo

Much of the province is devoted to farming

Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still

being practised in areas of the province resulting

in a landscape where forests and fields alternate

Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside

of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature

peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich

natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the

province sees far fewer visitors than popular

neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You

can go white water rafting on the Wa River

along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim

National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay

overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes

Touring Nan

Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern

lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities

of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old

salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via

endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges

and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with

orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers

Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready

to be harvested broke through the green hills

giving a golden hue to the landscape

We encountered friendly villagers who worked

their way through the dry fields - meanwhile

singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to

supplement their meager incomes Despite their

hardship they showed us their heartwarming

hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes

with us

This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi

Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and

sparsely populated that we only passed two

cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos

difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand

nowadays

PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river

The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness

begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over

the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above

the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is

broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices

Then the carved image of a Naga becomes

visible above the water line followed by more

than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted

in red and gold colorshellip

During the year the remote provincial town

of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a

year for the annual spectacle of traditional

Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos

water artery The finals are held over two

days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos

banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite

team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in

Thailand yet relatively unknown

The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long

simple shelters where the massive dragon boats

are housed during the year Just once a year

they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos

most important sporting and social event The

event takes place right after the end of the

rainy season around early November when

water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at

their highest The colorful races are part of the

festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the

last day of Buddhist Lent in October

The narrow boats are made from massive

hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters

in length depending how many paddlers they

are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily

distinguishable by their use of bright colors and

mythical designs in the traditional local style

The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of

each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting

only the good ones to participate in their race

How to get there

Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is

connected by plane and by bus to the rest of

the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan

Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice

each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to

Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to

Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on

the service

Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan

(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8

hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)

The contestants of the races are classified into

three categories mdashlarge medium and small

boats Depending on their length each boat can

accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers

sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the

same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously

against the current to the frantic beating of a

drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern

The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying

their attempt to reach the finish line first and

the paddles churning up the river creates a

spectacular atmosphere

Son

g K

ran

in

Ch

ian

g M

ai

Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of

the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down

in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The

days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing

steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the

hot months of April and May The stifling mid-

day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out

unless necessary The buzz around town about

some festival called Song Kran is starting to

increase an underlying excitement rising

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
  2. Button 4
  3. Button 9
  4. previous
  5. next
Page 20: Thaiguru issue10

You will notice the friendly atmosphere in this

area of Thailand right away

A couple of must sees like the Emerald Pond

and the Hot Waterfall are definitely worth your

visit Imagine relaxing in a the hot waterfall

under the exotic trees

And of course an island tour is a must when

you are in Krabi

By boat you can visit Por da Koh Hong Koh Kai

and the famous Pranang cave

Khao Yai National Park

Since establishing Thai Guru Magazine

we have been eager to take our

cameras to Khao Yai National Park

Having visited the area previously

I had already enjoyed the beauty

of Khao Yai and the abundance of

wildlife to be seen there and was keen

to share it with the rest of the team

Finally at the end of January we

jumped in the car for the long drive

south from

Chiang Mai

Three hours northeast of Bangkok Khao Yai

is the oldest and third largest national park

in Thailand Grasslands evergreen forests

monsoon forests and rain forests cover more

than 2000 square kilometres of this Unesco

World Heritage site

The park is teeming with wildlife Mammals

including elephant gibbon barking deer and

guar live within the parkrsquos borders The area

is also home to carnivores such as Asian wild

dogs and tigers as well as numerous reptiles and

amphibians including king cobras pythons and

monitor lizards Nearly 400 species of bird can

be found at Khao Yai Other attractions in this

trekkersrsquo paradise include several large waterfalls

The 20 metre Haew Suwat waterfall with is

deep pool was made famous by the film lsquoThe

Beachrsquo

Day 1The road leading to the gates of Khao Yai National Park is notable for its

numerous Italian influenced restaurants hotels and guesthouses A paradise

for pizza and pasta lovers there is even a small Italian-style village with ice-

cream parlours eateries and Italian themed guesthouses Almost immediately

after entering the park we were greeted by the sight of black giant squirrels

and pig tailed macaques clamouring in the canopy all around us Our first stop

was the visitor centre where we picked up a map of the park and other useful

information Outside were several sambar deer picking through restaurant

leftovers The rest of the day was spent exploring spots in which to set up

our cameras the following day We also made the first of several walks to the

observation tower adjacent to Nong Pak Chee reservoir As well as fabulous

views of the park the tower overlooks a saltlick where all manner of wildlife

gathers to suck up vital minerals and nutrients

Day 2Khao Yai is extremely popular with visitors and we could only

book lodging within its borders for the last two days of our trip

This meant an early start so we could get into the park in time to

shoot the sunrise We were the first visitors of the day and drove

to one of the places we had explored the day before We came

across what we thought was one of the many sambar or barking

deer that roam freely around the park We decided to take a

closer look only to find we had stumbled across an Asiatic black

bear half hidden in the morning mist Having spotted us after a

few minutes the handsome creature ambled off into the forest

The dawn had barely broken and our day was already a triumph

The rest of our time was spent following gibbons various varieties

deer and innumerable brightly coloured birds

Day 3Today we were fortunate to be allowed to move

ourselves and our equipment into government-

owned lodgings within the park Our first

mission was to set our cameras up at a place

where we had heard the heavy distinctive

rushing of wings and calls of hornbills (described

by some as sounding like the puffing of a steam

locomotive) the day before

We had expected a long wait but already had

our first shots of this impressive bird in the

can before breakfast We spent many hours

photographing hornbills macaque and other

wildlife

We even stumbled upon a pack of Asian wild

dogs gathered around the carcass of a recently

killed deer We thought our wildlife encounters

for the day were over as we sat down to enjoy

dinner only to be disturbed by scuffling sounds

behind our bungalow The noise was being

made by a pair of porcupines who were not in

the least afraid of us and actually attempted to

chase us away

Day 4The day was spent exploring the trails of Khao Yai and discovering among other wildlife a magnificent

crested serpent eagle As the afternoon drew to a close we decided to take one last trip to the watchtower

From here we witnessed the gathering of a large flock of hornbills We showed some of our footage to a

friendly ranger He was particularly interested in our bear shots We were thrilled to be told that it was very

rare to see a black bear even more so when we were informed that none of the rangers had seen one for

a number of months I decided to leave the tower to find a good place to photograph the sunset Within

a matter of minutes I heard someone scream ldquoBEARrdquo and was back up the stairs in seconds There below

us taking an evening stroll through the grass just metres from where we were perched was another much

younger black bear

Our trip could not have ended better Needless

to say Thai Guru thoroughly recommends a visit

to Khao Yai National Park As already mentioned

the park is popular with both local and foreign

tourists especially on holidays and weekends

We advise that you try to visit during the week

when the park is quieter and the chance of

seeing the amazing wildlife is greater

The park has two camping grounds as well as a

few bungalows that can be booked through the

Department of National Parks Wildlife and Plant

Conservation These need to be booked well

in advance However there are also plenty of

guesthouses and hotels are to be found along

the parkrsquos boundaries

Festival of LanternsThe enchanting atmosphere of Loi Krathong

The weather is cooling down and itrsquos

that time of year again when we all

take to the waterways of Thailand and

give praise to Khongkha the water

Goddess who took care of abundant

rainfall in the past raining season

Donrsquot miss this joyful celebration with

its enchanting atmosphere that brings

one and all in Thailand together

much like Songkran

Thailandrsquos lsquoFestival of Lightsrsquo is celebrated

throughout the kingdom on the night of the

November full moon The end of the rainy

season heralds the coolest months in the

countryrsquos calendar when the river waters are

also supposed to be at their highest

Superstition replaces religion on this night as

thousands flock to the banks of the swollen

rivers and canals to release khratongs floating

tributes to the river spirits and Mother Water ndash

Phra Mae Khongkha In recent years the festival

has been revived in the ancient temples of

Thailandrsquos former capital Sukhothai

Visitors assemble in the Sukhothai Historical

Park with their banana leaf khratongs decorated

with flowers incense sticks and candles to take

part in a ceremony that dates back centuries

Sometimes a coin is added as gift to the spirits

The pretty rafts are then released onto the lake

with a wish

It was once believed that Loi Khratong

was actually created in Sukhothai by Nang

Nopphamas a lady of the court and consort

of the king In fact the celebration was adapted

by Thai Buddhists from a Brahmanical festival

adapted to honour Buddha

The khratong is meant to be a light on the

darkness of the water for Buddha A personrsquos

sins and negative thoughts are also believed to

float away with the colourful little raft Try adding

a lock of your hair for extra luck

Nearly 20 of the Northern provinces will be

showing off a dazzling selection of floats in the

Royal Khratongs Procession as well as holding a

Miss Nopphamat beauty contest

A competition is held for the most beautifully

designed khratong as well as plenty of other

Sukhothai arts and cultural performances

The Light-and-Sound Presentation at Wat

Mahathat explains the history and origins of

Sukhothai and Loi Khratong through dance

music prayer combat displays light effects and

fireworks No Loi Khratong would be complete

without fireworks and thankfully the Thais are

not shy when it comes to blowing things up in

the sky

Tra Kuan pond is the place to be for the floating

of the Royal Khratongs followed by more

firmament-filling pyrotechnics Wat Chana

Songkram is the venue for the Mahachat

sermon Khon Marked Dance and a Thai

classical music performance

Thai Guru decided to travel from Chiang Mai

to Sukhotai for this yearrsquos festivities Although

the heavens decided to open for most of the

celebrations on the final day the rain could not

dampen the celebrations and the spectacle was

jaw dropping

The only thing that was missing due to the rain

was a sky filled with khom loi the sky lanterns

usually released into the firmament in their

hundreds

Although the festivities officially last for the best

part of a week it is the last three days that are

the busiest

Visitors can join in with a range of activities

including fruit carving or just wander around the

historic park listening to live traditional music

watching Thai martial arts or join the parade

of dancers musicians and beauty contestants

all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured

costumes

There are numerous places to stay for the

duration of the festival but it is advisable to

book ahead if you can because this is a very

popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north

from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai Temples

A visit to a temple in Thailand is

unavoidable They are everywhere

We at Thai Guru are well aware that

because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can

quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang

Mai With this in mind (and because

the city is overflowing with hundreds

of them) we have chosen a few of

our favourites we hope are slightly

alternative to the ones on the usual

tourist itinerary

Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to

the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its

latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of

the skills of the local silversmiths Like many

of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was

established several centuries ago The ubosoth

or ordination hall is an intricately designed

silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in

the sunlight

The area around Wua Lai has been the home to

silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past

couple of centuries who are famed throughout

the kingdom for creating detailed embossed

relief patterns on the objects they create

something that is immediately evident and

celebrated at Wat Srisuphan

The larger more traditionally decorated red blue

and gold prayer hall also contains impressive

silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos

life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft

museum

Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the

artisans at work and the temple has its own

silver-working school where apprentices are

trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive

Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved

in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-

robed residents of the temple improve their

linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also

available

Unfortunately women are not allowed to

enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this

is explained on a sign outside the wording of

which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in

the monastic boundary many precious things

incantations amulets and other holy objects

were buried over 500 years ago Entering

inside this area may deteriorated the place or

otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most

of the interior can be appreciated from the

doorway

Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous

for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged

Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai

Due to its being less well advertised than its

neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham

is often a more peaceful temple from which

to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang

Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist

Lent when the place was alive with worshippers

Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once

the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic

giants Following a visit from the Buddha the

giants decided to mend their ways stop eating

their neighbours and convert to Buddhism

For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and

offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the

templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally

constructed towards the end of the 7th century

Although the temple fell into disrepair over the

centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered

a chamber containing a number of Buddha

images The discovery led to the revitalisation of

this mountain top temple

The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are

guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured

sword-wielding warriors The courtyard

overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and

bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of

food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the

road leading to the temple

Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-

west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek

and easily accessible by car or taxi

Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai

was being established the name translates

as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably

because it was used to cast Buddha images for

its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The

entrance to the temple is through a small but

intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos

assembly hall is notable because it is one of the

only viharns of its type constructed solely from

teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a

superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock

astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference

to the king who once used the wooden hall as

his palace The gilded image features mythical

creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured

glass

The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite

from the busy road outside Wooden boxes

contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm

leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a

large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors

Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks

like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a

small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less

imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo

temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru

recommends a quick visit if you are passing

Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous

temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi

Luang

The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the

largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it

was damaged either by an earthquake in the

16th century or cannon fire from the guns

of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese

in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO

funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps

up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga

serpents and a group of five elephants (only the

one without a trunk or ears partially survived

whatever caused the structure to collapse the

others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi

was also once home to one of the most revered

religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald

Buddha Although the original now resides in

Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and

once again looks out over the city from a niche

on the east side of the structure

Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and

now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly

hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance

is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a

great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar

housed in a building at the base of the tree

Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although

one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few

alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed

Mae Hong Son

It is said that Mae Hong Son is the

most authentic and mountainous

province of Thailand For Thai Guru a

good reason to explore this province

side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai

province

Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of

Thailand The northern most part of this

province is at a distance of 924 km from

Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province

in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son

borders Myanmar On the south and east side it

borders Tak and Chiang Mai province

We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast

on the 108 road The scenery is woody and

mountainous so far so good And as we leave

the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek

for wildlife and beautiful landscapes

The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage

is that our average speed drops to less than

15 km hour No worries when you do trips

like these the clock stops and the only thing

on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning

landscapes that unfold before your eyes

The main road is well paved But as you might

understand we regularly go off road

This is the best way to come into contact with

locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo

While we are standing somewhere taking in the

beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a

falcon calling

A short walk through the forrest the sound

stops and we decide to sit down for some

water and well earned rest After a short while I

hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo

There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters

above us a white rumped falcon

Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras

it stays there and even when we start making

noises because we want to film it in flight it

takes itrsquos time

Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of

Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They

cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more

Of course they also have their own cattle And

walking through one of their small villages they

are very friendly and hospitable

It has to be said it is never smart to enter

a community or people with your camera

as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask

the people if they mind if you taking their

photograph or want to film their daily life

In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to

the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean

and offers a nice variety food on the terrace

with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city

where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists

Really nice to stroll down the walking street and

find food or a nice souvenir People are very

friendly as usual

From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae

Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an

average speed of 15 km hour

Halfway we jump out of the car into a river

Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to

keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn

but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around

without it

Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome

us and are gladly willing to allow us to make

photographs and film them

In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early

morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises

For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum

After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark

Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon

So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team

ChinatownBangkok

Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese

people in big cities around the world

Manhattan San Francisco Manilla

Paris and Boston have them and

more keep being officially recognised

in their role as historical and touristic

center every year Even places like

Dubai and Las Vegas have modern

day versions of this phenomenon

As soon as you pass under one of the famous

large red entrance arches you arrive in a

complete different world

A world that is paradise for photographers

A couple of the photographers in the Thai

Guru team decided to spend some time in the

Bangkok version of Chinatown

If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for

some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at

Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim

Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat

SLEEPY NANA dream destination

Relatively unknown and uncrowded

Nan has it all This gem of a province

hides an abundance of cultural and

natural attractions ancient temples

pristine forests rivers mountain

peaks but what strikes you most is

its omnipresent feel of an untroubled

authentic way of life

Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings

you this genuine feel in pictures and footage

For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of

Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant

nature and the nature of its people show

Thailand - as is often said before hordes of

tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas

it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan

managed to escape this proces but will it stay

that way Nan shares most of its border with

neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening

of the border and beyond towards China it is to

be expected that it will ultimately become an

important gateway for trade and tourism

Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town

and the countryside will enchant you and the natural

cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy

for at least a couple of days The town along the banks

of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base

to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night

life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous

temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue

influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The

great surroundings can best be explored by renting a

motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo

Much of the province is devoted to farming

Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still

being practised in areas of the province resulting

in a landscape where forests and fields alternate

Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside

of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature

peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich

natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the

province sees far fewer visitors than popular

neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You

can go white water rafting on the Wa River

along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim

National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay

overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes

Touring Nan

Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern

lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities

of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old

salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via

endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges

and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with

orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers

Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready

to be harvested broke through the green hills

giving a golden hue to the landscape

We encountered friendly villagers who worked

their way through the dry fields - meanwhile

singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to

supplement their meager incomes Despite their

hardship they showed us their heartwarming

hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes

with us

This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi

Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and

sparsely populated that we only passed two

cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos

difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand

nowadays

PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river

The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness

begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over

the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above

the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is

broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices

Then the carved image of a Naga becomes

visible above the water line followed by more

than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted

in red and gold colorshellip

During the year the remote provincial town

of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a

year for the annual spectacle of traditional

Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos

water artery The finals are held over two

days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos

banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite

team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in

Thailand yet relatively unknown

The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long

simple shelters where the massive dragon boats

are housed during the year Just once a year

they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos

most important sporting and social event The

event takes place right after the end of the

rainy season around early November when

water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at

their highest The colorful races are part of the

festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the

last day of Buddhist Lent in October

The narrow boats are made from massive

hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters

in length depending how many paddlers they

are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily

distinguishable by their use of bright colors and

mythical designs in the traditional local style

The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of

each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting

only the good ones to participate in their race

How to get there

Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is

connected by plane and by bus to the rest of

the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan

Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice

each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to

Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to

Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on

the service

Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan

(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8

hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)

The contestants of the races are classified into

three categories mdashlarge medium and small

boats Depending on their length each boat can

accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers

sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the

same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously

against the current to the frantic beating of a

drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern

The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying

their attempt to reach the finish line first and

the paddles churning up the river creates a

spectacular atmosphere

Son

g K

ran

in

Ch

ian

g M

ai

Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of

the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down

in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The

days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing

steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the

hot months of April and May The stifling mid-

day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out

unless necessary The buzz around town about

some festival called Song Kran is starting to

increase an underlying excitement rising

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
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  5. next
Page 21: Thaiguru issue10

Khao Yai National Park

Since establishing Thai Guru Magazine

we have been eager to take our

cameras to Khao Yai National Park

Having visited the area previously

I had already enjoyed the beauty

of Khao Yai and the abundance of

wildlife to be seen there and was keen

to share it with the rest of the team

Finally at the end of January we

jumped in the car for the long drive

south from

Chiang Mai

Three hours northeast of Bangkok Khao Yai

is the oldest and third largest national park

in Thailand Grasslands evergreen forests

monsoon forests and rain forests cover more

than 2000 square kilometres of this Unesco

World Heritage site

The park is teeming with wildlife Mammals

including elephant gibbon barking deer and

guar live within the parkrsquos borders The area

is also home to carnivores such as Asian wild

dogs and tigers as well as numerous reptiles and

amphibians including king cobras pythons and

monitor lizards Nearly 400 species of bird can

be found at Khao Yai Other attractions in this

trekkersrsquo paradise include several large waterfalls

The 20 metre Haew Suwat waterfall with is

deep pool was made famous by the film lsquoThe

Beachrsquo

Day 1The road leading to the gates of Khao Yai National Park is notable for its

numerous Italian influenced restaurants hotels and guesthouses A paradise

for pizza and pasta lovers there is even a small Italian-style village with ice-

cream parlours eateries and Italian themed guesthouses Almost immediately

after entering the park we were greeted by the sight of black giant squirrels

and pig tailed macaques clamouring in the canopy all around us Our first stop

was the visitor centre where we picked up a map of the park and other useful

information Outside were several sambar deer picking through restaurant

leftovers The rest of the day was spent exploring spots in which to set up

our cameras the following day We also made the first of several walks to the

observation tower adjacent to Nong Pak Chee reservoir As well as fabulous

views of the park the tower overlooks a saltlick where all manner of wildlife

gathers to suck up vital minerals and nutrients

Day 2Khao Yai is extremely popular with visitors and we could only

book lodging within its borders for the last two days of our trip

This meant an early start so we could get into the park in time to

shoot the sunrise We were the first visitors of the day and drove

to one of the places we had explored the day before We came

across what we thought was one of the many sambar or barking

deer that roam freely around the park We decided to take a

closer look only to find we had stumbled across an Asiatic black

bear half hidden in the morning mist Having spotted us after a

few minutes the handsome creature ambled off into the forest

The dawn had barely broken and our day was already a triumph

The rest of our time was spent following gibbons various varieties

deer and innumerable brightly coloured birds

Day 3Today we were fortunate to be allowed to move

ourselves and our equipment into government-

owned lodgings within the park Our first

mission was to set our cameras up at a place

where we had heard the heavy distinctive

rushing of wings and calls of hornbills (described

by some as sounding like the puffing of a steam

locomotive) the day before

We had expected a long wait but already had

our first shots of this impressive bird in the

can before breakfast We spent many hours

photographing hornbills macaque and other

wildlife

We even stumbled upon a pack of Asian wild

dogs gathered around the carcass of a recently

killed deer We thought our wildlife encounters

for the day were over as we sat down to enjoy

dinner only to be disturbed by scuffling sounds

behind our bungalow The noise was being

made by a pair of porcupines who were not in

the least afraid of us and actually attempted to

chase us away

Day 4The day was spent exploring the trails of Khao Yai and discovering among other wildlife a magnificent

crested serpent eagle As the afternoon drew to a close we decided to take one last trip to the watchtower

From here we witnessed the gathering of a large flock of hornbills We showed some of our footage to a

friendly ranger He was particularly interested in our bear shots We were thrilled to be told that it was very

rare to see a black bear even more so when we were informed that none of the rangers had seen one for

a number of months I decided to leave the tower to find a good place to photograph the sunset Within

a matter of minutes I heard someone scream ldquoBEARrdquo and was back up the stairs in seconds There below

us taking an evening stroll through the grass just metres from where we were perched was another much

younger black bear

Our trip could not have ended better Needless

to say Thai Guru thoroughly recommends a visit

to Khao Yai National Park As already mentioned

the park is popular with both local and foreign

tourists especially on holidays and weekends

We advise that you try to visit during the week

when the park is quieter and the chance of

seeing the amazing wildlife is greater

The park has two camping grounds as well as a

few bungalows that can be booked through the

Department of National Parks Wildlife and Plant

Conservation These need to be booked well

in advance However there are also plenty of

guesthouses and hotels are to be found along

the parkrsquos boundaries

Festival of LanternsThe enchanting atmosphere of Loi Krathong

The weather is cooling down and itrsquos

that time of year again when we all

take to the waterways of Thailand and

give praise to Khongkha the water

Goddess who took care of abundant

rainfall in the past raining season

Donrsquot miss this joyful celebration with

its enchanting atmosphere that brings

one and all in Thailand together

much like Songkran

Thailandrsquos lsquoFestival of Lightsrsquo is celebrated

throughout the kingdom on the night of the

November full moon The end of the rainy

season heralds the coolest months in the

countryrsquos calendar when the river waters are

also supposed to be at their highest

Superstition replaces religion on this night as

thousands flock to the banks of the swollen

rivers and canals to release khratongs floating

tributes to the river spirits and Mother Water ndash

Phra Mae Khongkha In recent years the festival

has been revived in the ancient temples of

Thailandrsquos former capital Sukhothai

Visitors assemble in the Sukhothai Historical

Park with their banana leaf khratongs decorated

with flowers incense sticks and candles to take

part in a ceremony that dates back centuries

Sometimes a coin is added as gift to the spirits

The pretty rafts are then released onto the lake

with a wish

It was once believed that Loi Khratong

was actually created in Sukhothai by Nang

Nopphamas a lady of the court and consort

of the king In fact the celebration was adapted

by Thai Buddhists from a Brahmanical festival

adapted to honour Buddha

The khratong is meant to be a light on the

darkness of the water for Buddha A personrsquos

sins and negative thoughts are also believed to

float away with the colourful little raft Try adding

a lock of your hair for extra luck

Nearly 20 of the Northern provinces will be

showing off a dazzling selection of floats in the

Royal Khratongs Procession as well as holding a

Miss Nopphamat beauty contest

A competition is held for the most beautifully

designed khratong as well as plenty of other

Sukhothai arts and cultural performances

The Light-and-Sound Presentation at Wat

Mahathat explains the history and origins of

Sukhothai and Loi Khratong through dance

music prayer combat displays light effects and

fireworks No Loi Khratong would be complete

without fireworks and thankfully the Thais are

not shy when it comes to blowing things up in

the sky

Tra Kuan pond is the place to be for the floating

of the Royal Khratongs followed by more

firmament-filling pyrotechnics Wat Chana

Songkram is the venue for the Mahachat

sermon Khon Marked Dance and a Thai

classical music performance

Thai Guru decided to travel from Chiang Mai

to Sukhotai for this yearrsquos festivities Although

the heavens decided to open for most of the

celebrations on the final day the rain could not

dampen the celebrations and the spectacle was

jaw dropping

The only thing that was missing due to the rain

was a sky filled with khom loi the sky lanterns

usually released into the firmament in their

hundreds

Although the festivities officially last for the best

part of a week it is the last three days that are

the busiest

Visitors can join in with a range of activities

including fruit carving or just wander around the

historic park listening to live traditional music

watching Thai martial arts or join the parade

of dancers musicians and beauty contestants

all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured

costumes

There are numerous places to stay for the

duration of the festival but it is advisable to

book ahead if you can because this is a very

popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north

from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai Temples

A visit to a temple in Thailand is

unavoidable They are everywhere

We at Thai Guru are well aware that

because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can

quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang

Mai With this in mind (and because

the city is overflowing with hundreds

of them) we have chosen a few of

our favourites we hope are slightly

alternative to the ones on the usual

tourist itinerary

Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to

the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its

latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of

the skills of the local silversmiths Like many

of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was

established several centuries ago The ubosoth

or ordination hall is an intricately designed

silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in

the sunlight

The area around Wua Lai has been the home to

silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past

couple of centuries who are famed throughout

the kingdom for creating detailed embossed

relief patterns on the objects they create

something that is immediately evident and

celebrated at Wat Srisuphan

The larger more traditionally decorated red blue

and gold prayer hall also contains impressive

silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos

life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft

museum

Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the

artisans at work and the temple has its own

silver-working school where apprentices are

trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive

Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved

in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-

robed residents of the temple improve their

linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also

available

Unfortunately women are not allowed to

enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this

is explained on a sign outside the wording of

which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in

the monastic boundary many precious things

incantations amulets and other holy objects

were buried over 500 years ago Entering

inside this area may deteriorated the place or

otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most

of the interior can be appreciated from the

doorway

Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous

for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged

Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai

Due to its being less well advertised than its

neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham

is often a more peaceful temple from which

to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang

Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist

Lent when the place was alive with worshippers

Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once

the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic

giants Following a visit from the Buddha the

giants decided to mend their ways stop eating

their neighbours and convert to Buddhism

For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and

offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the

templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally

constructed towards the end of the 7th century

Although the temple fell into disrepair over the

centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered

a chamber containing a number of Buddha

images The discovery led to the revitalisation of

this mountain top temple

The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are

guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured

sword-wielding warriors The courtyard

overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and

bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of

food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the

road leading to the temple

Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-

west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek

and easily accessible by car or taxi

Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai

was being established the name translates

as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably

because it was used to cast Buddha images for

its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The

entrance to the temple is through a small but

intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos

assembly hall is notable because it is one of the

only viharns of its type constructed solely from

teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a

superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock

astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference

to the king who once used the wooden hall as

his palace The gilded image features mythical

creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured

glass

The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite

from the busy road outside Wooden boxes

contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm

leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a

large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors

Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks

like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a

small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less

imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo

temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru

recommends a quick visit if you are passing

Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous

temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi

Luang

The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the

largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it

was damaged either by an earthquake in the

16th century or cannon fire from the guns

of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese

in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO

funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps

up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga

serpents and a group of five elephants (only the

one without a trunk or ears partially survived

whatever caused the structure to collapse the

others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi

was also once home to one of the most revered

religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald

Buddha Although the original now resides in

Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and

once again looks out over the city from a niche

on the east side of the structure

Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and

now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly

hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance

is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a

great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar

housed in a building at the base of the tree

Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although

one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few

alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed

Mae Hong Son

It is said that Mae Hong Son is the

most authentic and mountainous

province of Thailand For Thai Guru a

good reason to explore this province

side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai

province

Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of

Thailand The northern most part of this

province is at a distance of 924 km from

Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province

in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son

borders Myanmar On the south and east side it

borders Tak and Chiang Mai province

We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast

on the 108 road The scenery is woody and

mountainous so far so good And as we leave

the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek

for wildlife and beautiful landscapes

The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage

is that our average speed drops to less than

15 km hour No worries when you do trips

like these the clock stops and the only thing

on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning

landscapes that unfold before your eyes

The main road is well paved But as you might

understand we regularly go off road

This is the best way to come into contact with

locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo

While we are standing somewhere taking in the

beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a

falcon calling

A short walk through the forrest the sound

stops and we decide to sit down for some

water and well earned rest After a short while I

hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo

There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters

above us a white rumped falcon

Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras

it stays there and even when we start making

noises because we want to film it in flight it

takes itrsquos time

Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of

Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They

cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more

Of course they also have their own cattle And

walking through one of their small villages they

are very friendly and hospitable

It has to be said it is never smart to enter

a community or people with your camera

as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask

the people if they mind if you taking their

photograph or want to film their daily life

In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to

the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean

and offers a nice variety food on the terrace

with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city

where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists

Really nice to stroll down the walking street and

find food or a nice souvenir People are very

friendly as usual

From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae

Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an

average speed of 15 km hour

Halfway we jump out of the car into a river

Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to

keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn

but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around

without it

Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome

us and are gladly willing to allow us to make

photographs and film them

In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early

morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises

For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum

After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark

Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon

So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team

ChinatownBangkok

Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese

people in big cities around the world

Manhattan San Francisco Manilla

Paris and Boston have them and

more keep being officially recognised

in their role as historical and touristic

center every year Even places like

Dubai and Las Vegas have modern

day versions of this phenomenon

As soon as you pass under one of the famous

large red entrance arches you arrive in a

complete different world

A world that is paradise for photographers

A couple of the photographers in the Thai

Guru team decided to spend some time in the

Bangkok version of Chinatown

If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for

some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at

Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim

Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat

SLEEPY NANA dream destination

Relatively unknown and uncrowded

Nan has it all This gem of a province

hides an abundance of cultural and

natural attractions ancient temples

pristine forests rivers mountain

peaks but what strikes you most is

its omnipresent feel of an untroubled

authentic way of life

Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings

you this genuine feel in pictures and footage

For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of

Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant

nature and the nature of its people show

Thailand - as is often said before hordes of

tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas

it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan

managed to escape this proces but will it stay

that way Nan shares most of its border with

neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening

of the border and beyond towards China it is to

be expected that it will ultimately become an

important gateway for trade and tourism

Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town

and the countryside will enchant you and the natural

cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy

for at least a couple of days The town along the banks

of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base

to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night

life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous

temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue

influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The

great surroundings can best be explored by renting a

motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo

Much of the province is devoted to farming

Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still

being practised in areas of the province resulting

in a landscape where forests and fields alternate

Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside

of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature

peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich

natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the

province sees far fewer visitors than popular

neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You

can go white water rafting on the Wa River

along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim

National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay

overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes

Touring Nan

Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern

lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities

of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old

salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via

endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges

and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with

orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers

Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready

to be harvested broke through the green hills

giving a golden hue to the landscape

We encountered friendly villagers who worked

their way through the dry fields - meanwhile

singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to

supplement their meager incomes Despite their

hardship they showed us their heartwarming

hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes

with us

This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi

Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and

sparsely populated that we only passed two

cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos

difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand

nowadays

PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river

The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness

begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over

the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above

the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is

broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices

Then the carved image of a Naga becomes

visible above the water line followed by more

than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted

in red and gold colorshellip

During the year the remote provincial town

of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a

year for the annual spectacle of traditional

Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos

water artery The finals are held over two

days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos

banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite

team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in

Thailand yet relatively unknown

The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long

simple shelters where the massive dragon boats

are housed during the year Just once a year

they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos

most important sporting and social event The

event takes place right after the end of the

rainy season around early November when

water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at

their highest The colorful races are part of the

festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the

last day of Buddhist Lent in October

The narrow boats are made from massive

hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters

in length depending how many paddlers they

are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily

distinguishable by their use of bright colors and

mythical designs in the traditional local style

The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of

each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting

only the good ones to participate in their race

How to get there

Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is

connected by plane and by bus to the rest of

the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan

Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice

each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to

Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to

Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on

the service

Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan

(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8

hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)

The contestants of the races are classified into

three categories mdashlarge medium and small

boats Depending on their length each boat can

accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers

sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the

same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously

against the current to the frantic beating of a

drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern

The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying

their attempt to reach the finish line first and

the paddles churning up the river creates a

spectacular atmosphere

Son

g K

ran

in

Ch

ian

g M

ai

Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of

the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down

in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The

days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing

steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the

hot months of April and May The stifling mid-

day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out

unless necessary The buzz around town about

some festival called Song Kran is starting to

increase an underlying excitement rising

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
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Page 22: Thaiguru issue10

Since establishing Thai Guru Magazine

we have been eager to take our

cameras to Khao Yai National Park

Having visited the area previously

I had already enjoyed the beauty

of Khao Yai and the abundance of

wildlife to be seen there and was keen

to share it with the rest of the team

Finally at the end of January we

jumped in the car for the long drive

south from

Chiang Mai

Three hours northeast of Bangkok Khao Yai

is the oldest and third largest national park

in Thailand Grasslands evergreen forests

monsoon forests and rain forests cover more

than 2000 square kilometres of this Unesco

World Heritage site

The park is teeming with wildlife Mammals

including elephant gibbon barking deer and

guar live within the parkrsquos borders The area

is also home to carnivores such as Asian wild

dogs and tigers as well as numerous reptiles and

amphibians including king cobras pythons and

monitor lizards Nearly 400 species of bird can

be found at Khao Yai Other attractions in this

trekkersrsquo paradise include several large waterfalls

The 20 metre Haew Suwat waterfall with is

deep pool was made famous by the film lsquoThe

Beachrsquo

Day 1The road leading to the gates of Khao Yai National Park is notable for its

numerous Italian influenced restaurants hotels and guesthouses A paradise

for pizza and pasta lovers there is even a small Italian-style village with ice-

cream parlours eateries and Italian themed guesthouses Almost immediately

after entering the park we were greeted by the sight of black giant squirrels

and pig tailed macaques clamouring in the canopy all around us Our first stop

was the visitor centre where we picked up a map of the park and other useful

information Outside were several sambar deer picking through restaurant

leftovers The rest of the day was spent exploring spots in which to set up

our cameras the following day We also made the first of several walks to the

observation tower adjacent to Nong Pak Chee reservoir As well as fabulous

views of the park the tower overlooks a saltlick where all manner of wildlife

gathers to suck up vital minerals and nutrients

Day 2Khao Yai is extremely popular with visitors and we could only

book lodging within its borders for the last two days of our trip

This meant an early start so we could get into the park in time to

shoot the sunrise We were the first visitors of the day and drove

to one of the places we had explored the day before We came

across what we thought was one of the many sambar or barking

deer that roam freely around the park We decided to take a

closer look only to find we had stumbled across an Asiatic black

bear half hidden in the morning mist Having spotted us after a

few minutes the handsome creature ambled off into the forest

The dawn had barely broken and our day was already a triumph

The rest of our time was spent following gibbons various varieties

deer and innumerable brightly coloured birds

Day 3Today we were fortunate to be allowed to move

ourselves and our equipment into government-

owned lodgings within the park Our first

mission was to set our cameras up at a place

where we had heard the heavy distinctive

rushing of wings and calls of hornbills (described

by some as sounding like the puffing of a steam

locomotive) the day before

We had expected a long wait but already had

our first shots of this impressive bird in the

can before breakfast We spent many hours

photographing hornbills macaque and other

wildlife

We even stumbled upon a pack of Asian wild

dogs gathered around the carcass of a recently

killed deer We thought our wildlife encounters

for the day were over as we sat down to enjoy

dinner only to be disturbed by scuffling sounds

behind our bungalow The noise was being

made by a pair of porcupines who were not in

the least afraid of us and actually attempted to

chase us away

Day 4The day was spent exploring the trails of Khao Yai and discovering among other wildlife a magnificent

crested serpent eagle As the afternoon drew to a close we decided to take one last trip to the watchtower

From here we witnessed the gathering of a large flock of hornbills We showed some of our footage to a

friendly ranger He was particularly interested in our bear shots We were thrilled to be told that it was very

rare to see a black bear even more so when we were informed that none of the rangers had seen one for

a number of months I decided to leave the tower to find a good place to photograph the sunset Within

a matter of minutes I heard someone scream ldquoBEARrdquo and was back up the stairs in seconds There below

us taking an evening stroll through the grass just metres from where we were perched was another much

younger black bear

Our trip could not have ended better Needless

to say Thai Guru thoroughly recommends a visit

to Khao Yai National Park As already mentioned

the park is popular with both local and foreign

tourists especially on holidays and weekends

We advise that you try to visit during the week

when the park is quieter and the chance of

seeing the amazing wildlife is greater

The park has two camping grounds as well as a

few bungalows that can be booked through the

Department of National Parks Wildlife and Plant

Conservation These need to be booked well

in advance However there are also plenty of

guesthouses and hotels are to be found along

the parkrsquos boundaries

Festival of LanternsThe enchanting atmosphere of Loi Krathong

The weather is cooling down and itrsquos

that time of year again when we all

take to the waterways of Thailand and

give praise to Khongkha the water

Goddess who took care of abundant

rainfall in the past raining season

Donrsquot miss this joyful celebration with

its enchanting atmosphere that brings

one and all in Thailand together

much like Songkran

Thailandrsquos lsquoFestival of Lightsrsquo is celebrated

throughout the kingdom on the night of the

November full moon The end of the rainy

season heralds the coolest months in the

countryrsquos calendar when the river waters are

also supposed to be at their highest

Superstition replaces religion on this night as

thousands flock to the banks of the swollen

rivers and canals to release khratongs floating

tributes to the river spirits and Mother Water ndash

Phra Mae Khongkha In recent years the festival

has been revived in the ancient temples of

Thailandrsquos former capital Sukhothai

Visitors assemble in the Sukhothai Historical

Park with their banana leaf khratongs decorated

with flowers incense sticks and candles to take

part in a ceremony that dates back centuries

Sometimes a coin is added as gift to the spirits

The pretty rafts are then released onto the lake

with a wish

It was once believed that Loi Khratong

was actually created in Sukhothai by Nang

Nopphamas a lady of the court and consort

of the king In fact the celebration was adapted

by Thai Buddhists from a Brahmanical festival

adapted to honour Buddha

The khratong is meant to be a light on the

darkness of the water for Buddha A personrsquos

sins and negative thoughts are also believed to

float away with the colourful little raft Try adding

a lock of your hair for extra luck

Nearly 20 of the Northern provinces will be

showing off a dazzling selection of floats in the

Royal Khratongs Procession as well as holding a

Miss Nopphamat beauty contest

A competition is held for the most beautifully

designed khratong as well as plenty of other

Sukhothai arts and cultural performances

The Light-and-Sound Presentation at Wat

Mahathat explains the history and origins of

Sukhothai and Loi Khratong through dance

music prayer combat displays light effects and

fireworks No Loi Khratong would be complete

without fireworks and thankfully the Thais are

not shy when it comes to blowing things up in

the sky

Tra Kuan pond is the place to be for the floating

of the Royal Khratongs followed by more

firmament-filling pyrotechnics Wat Chana

Songkram is the venue for the Mahachat

sermon Khon Marked Dance and a Thai

classical music performance

Thai Guru decided to travel from Chiang Mai

to Sukhotai for this yearrsquos festivities Although

the heavens decided to open for most of the

celebrations on the final day the rain could not

dampen the celebrations and the spectacle was

jaw dropping

The only thing that was missing due to the rain

was a sky filled with khom loi the sky lanterns

usually released into the firmament in their

hundreds

Although the festivities officially last for the best

part of a week it is the last three days that are

the busiest

Visitors can join in with a range of activities

including fruit carving or just wander around the

historic park listening to live traditional music

watching Thai martial arts or join the parade

of dancers musicians and beauty contestants

all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured

costumes

There are numerous places to stay for the

duration of the festival but it is advisable to

book ahead if you can because this is a very

popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north

from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai Temples

A visit to a temple in Thailand is

unavoidable They are everywhere

We at Thai Guru are well aware that

because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can

quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang

Mai With this in mind (and because

the city is overflowing with hundreds

of them) we have chosen a few of

our favourites we hope are slightly

alternative to the ones on the usual

tourist itinerary

Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to

the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its

latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of

the skills of the local silversmiths Like many

of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was

established several centuries ago The ubosoth

or ordination hall is an intricately designed

silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in

the sunlight

The area around Wua Lai has been the home to

silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past

couple of centuries who are famed throughout

the kingdom for creating detailed embossed

relief patterns on the objects they create

something that is immediately evident and

celebrated at Wat Srisuphan

The larger more traditionally decorated red blue

and gold prayer hall also contains impressive

silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos

life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft

museum

Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the

artisans at work and the temple has its own

silver-working school where apprentices are

trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive

Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved

in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-

robed residents of the temple improve their

linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also

available

Unfortunately women are not allowed to

enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this

is explained on a sign outside the wording of

which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in

the monastic boundary many precious things

incantations amulets and other holy objects

were buried over 500 years ago Entering

inside this area may deteriorated the place or

otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most

of the interior can be appreciated from the

doorway

Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous

for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged

Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai

Due to its being less well advertised than its

neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham

is often a more peaceful temple from which

to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang

Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist

Lent when the place was alive with worshippers

Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once

the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic

giants Following a visit from the Buddha the

giants decided to mend their ways stop eating

their neighbours and convert to Buddhism

For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and

offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the

templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally

constructed towards the end of the 7th century

Although the temple fell into disrepair over the

centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered

a chamber containing a number of Buddha

images The discovery led to the revitalisation of

this mountain top temple

The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are

guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured

sword-wielding warriors The courtyard

overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and

bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of

food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the

road leading to the temple

Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-

west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek

and easily accessible by car or taxi

Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai

was being established the name translates

as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably

because it was used to cast Buddha images for

its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The

entrance to the temple is through a small but

intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos

assembly hall is notable because it is one of the

only viharns of its type constructed solely from

teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a

superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock

astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference

to the king who once used the wooden hall as

his palace The gilded image features mythical

creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured

glass

The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite

from the busy road outside Wooden boxes

contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm

leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a

large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors

Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks

like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a

small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less

imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo

temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru

recommends a quick visit if you are passing

Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous

temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi

Luang

The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the

largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it

was damaged either by an earthquake in the

16th century or cannon fire from the guns

of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese

in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO

funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps

up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga

serpents and a group of five elephants (only the

one without a trunk or ears partially survived

whatever caused the structure to collapse the

others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi

was also once home to one of the most revered

religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald

Buddha Although the original now resides in

Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and

once again looks out over the city from a niche

on the east side of the structure

Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and

now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly

hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance

is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a

great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar

housed in a building at the base of the tree

Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although

one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few

alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed

Mae Hong Son

It is said that Mae Hong Son is the

most authentic and mountainous

province of Thailand For Thai Guru a

good reason to explore this province

side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai

province

Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of

Thailand The northern most part of this

province is at a distance of 924 km from

Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province

in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son

borders Myanmar On the south and east side it

borders Tak and Chiang Mai province

We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast

on the 108 road The scenery is woody and

mountainous so far so good And as we leave

the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek

for wildlife and beautiful landscapes

The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage

is that our average speed drops to less than

15 km hour No worries when you do trips

like these the clock stops and the only thing

on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning

landscapes that unfold before your eyes

The main road is well paved But as you might

understand we regularly go off road

This is the best way to come into contact with

locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo

While we are standing somewhere taking in the

beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a

falcon calling

A short walk through the forrest the sound

stops and we decide to sit down for some

water and well earned rest After a short while I

hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo

There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters

above us a white rumped falcon

Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras

it stays there and even when we start making

noises because we want to film it in flight it

takes itrsquos time

Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of

Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They

cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more

Of course they also have their own cattle And

walking through one of their small villages they

are very friendly and hospitable

It has to be said it is never smart to enter

a community or people with your camera

as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask

the people if they mind if you taking their

photograph or want to film their daily life

In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to

the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean

and offers a nice variety food on the terrace

with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city

where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists

Really nice to stroll down the walking street and

find food or a nice souvenir People are very

friendly as usual

From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae

Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an

average speed of 15 km hour

Halfway we jump out of the car into a river

Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to

keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn

but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around

without it

Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome

us and are gladly willing to allow us to make

photographs and film them

In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early

morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises

For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum

After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark

Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon

So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team

ChinatownBangkok

Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese

people in big cities around the world

Manhattan San Francisco Manilla

Paris and Boston have them and

more keep being officially recognised

in their role as historical and touristic

center every year Even places like

Dubai and Las Vegas have modern

day versions of this phenomenon

As soon as you pass under one of the famous

large red entrance arches you arrive in a

complete different world

A world that is paradise for photographers

A couple of the photographers in the Thai

Guru team decided to spend some time in the

Bangkok version of Chinatown

If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for

some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at

Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim

Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat

SLEEPY NANA dream destination

Relatively unknown and uncrowded

Nan has it all This gem of a province

hides an abundance of cultural and

natural attractions ancient temples

pristine forests rivers mountain

peaks but what strikes you most is

its omnipresent feel of an untroubled

authentic way of life

Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings

you this genuine feel in pictures and footage

For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of

Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant

nature and the nature of its people show

Thailand - as is often said before hordes of

tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas

it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan

managed to escape this proces but will it stay

that way Nan shares most of its border with

neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening

of the border and beyond towards China it is to

be expected that it will ultimately become an

important gateway for trade and tourism

Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town

and the countryside will enchant you and the natural

cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy

for at least a couple of days The town along the banks

of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base

to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night

life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous

temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue

influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The

great surroundings can best be explored by renting a

motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo

Much of the province is devoted to farming

Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still

being practised in areas of the province resulting

in a landscape where forests and fields alternate

Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside

of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature

peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich

natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the

province sees far fewer visitors than popular

neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You

can go white water rafting on the Wa River

along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim

National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay

overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes

Touring Nan

Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern

lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities

of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old

salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via

endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges

and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with

orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers

Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready

to be harvested broke through the green hills

giving a golden hue to the landscape

We encountered friendly villagers who worked

their way through the dry fields - meanwhile

singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to

supplement their meager incomes Despite their

hardship they showed us their heartwarming

hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes

with us

This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi

Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and

sparsely populated that we only passed two

cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos

difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand

nowadays

PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river

The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness

begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over

the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above

the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is

broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices

Then the carved image of a Naga becomes

visible above the water line followed by more

than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted

in red and gold colorshellip

During the year the remote provincial town

of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a

year for the annual spectacle of traditional

Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos

water artery The finals are held over two

days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos

banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite

team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in

Thailand yet relatively unknown

The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long

simple shelters where the massive dragon boats

are housed during the year Just once a year

they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos

most important sporting and social event The

event takes place right after the end of the

rainy season around early November when

water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at

their highest The colorful races are part of the

festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the

last day of Buddhist Lent in October

The narrow boats are made from massive

hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters

in length depending how many paddlers they

are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily

distinguishable by their use of bright colors and

mythical designs in the traditional local style

The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of

each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting

only the good ones to participate in their race

How to get there

Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is

connected by plane and by bus to the rest of

the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan

Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice

each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to

Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to

Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on

the service

Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan

(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8

hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)

The contestants of the races are classified into

three categories mdashlarge medium and small

boats Depending on their length each boat can

accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers

sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the

same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously

against the current to the frantic beating of a

drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern

The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying

their attempt to reach the finish line first and

the paddles churning up the river creates a

spectacular atmosphere

Son

g K

ran

in

Ch

ian

g M

ai

Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of

the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down

in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The

days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing

steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the

hot months of April and May The stifling mid-

day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out

unless necessary The buzz around town about

some festival called Song Kran is starting to

increase an underlying excitement rising

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
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Page 23: Thaiguru issue10

Three hours northeast of Bangkok Khao Yai

is the oldest and third largest national park

in Thailand Grasslands evergreen forests

monsoon forests and rain forests cover more

than 2000 square kilometres of this Unesco

World Heritage site

The park is teeming with wildlife Mammals

including elephant gibbon barking deer and

guar live within the parkrsquos borders The area

is also home to carnivores such as Asian wild

dogs and tigers as well as numerous reptiles and

amphibians including king cobras pythons and

monitor lizards Nearly 400 species of bird can

be found at Khao Yai Other attractions in this

trekkersrsquo paradise include several large waterfalls

The 20 metre Haew Suwat waterfall with is

deep pool was made famous by the film lsquoThe

Beachrsquo

Day 1The road leading to the gates of Khao Yai National Park is notable for its

numerous Italian influenced restaurants hotels and guesthouses A paradise

for pizza and pasta lovers there is even a small Italian-style village with ice-

cream parlours eateries and Italian themed guesthouses Almost immediately

after entering the park we were greeted by the sight of black giant squirrels

and pig tailed macaques clamouring in the canopy all around us Our first stop

was the visitor centre where we picked up a map of the park and other useful

information Outside were several sambar deer picking through restaurant

leftovers The rest of the day was spent exploring spots in which to set up

our cameras the following day We also made the first of several walks to the

observation tower adjacent to Nong Pak Chee reservoir As well as fabulous

views of the park the tower overlooks a saltlick where all manner of wildlife

gathers to suck up vital minerals and nutrients

Day 2Khao Yai is extremely popular with visitors and we could only

book lodging within its borders for the last two days of our trip

This meant an early start so we could get into the park in time to

shoot the sunrise We were the first visitors of the day and drove

to one of the places we had explored the day before We came

across what we thought was one of the many sambar or barking

deer that roam freely around the park We decided to take a

closer look only to find we had stumbled across an Asiatic black

bear half hidden in the morning mist Having spotted us after a

few minutes the handsome creature ambled off into the forest

The dawn had barely broken and our day was already a triumph

The rest of our time was spent following gibbons various varieties

deer and innumerable brightly coloured birds

Day 3Today we were fortunate to be allowed to move

ourselves and our equipment into government-

owned lodgings within the park Our first

mission was to set our cameras up at a place

where we had heard the heavy distinctive

rushing of wings and calls of hornbills (described

by some as sounding like the puffing of a steam

locomotive) the day before

We had expected a long wait but already had

our first shots of this impressive bird in the

can before breakfast We spent many hours

photographing hornbills macaque and other

wildlife

We even stumbled upon a pack of Asian wild

dogs gathered around the carcass of a recently

killed deer We thought our wildlife encounters

for the day were over as we sat down to enjoy

dinner only to be disturbed by scuffling sounds

behind our bungalow The noise was being

made by a pair of porcupines who were not in

the least afraid of us and actually attempted to

chase us away

Day 4The day was spent exploring the trails of Khao Yai and discovering among other wildlife a magnificent

crested serpent eagle As the afternoon drew to a close we decided to take one last trip to the watchtower

From here we witnessed the gathering of a large flock of hornbills We showed some of our footage to a

friendly ranger He was particularly interested in our bear shots We were thrilled to be told that it was very

rare to see a black bear even more so when we were informed that none of the rangers had seen one for

a number of months I decided to leave the tower to find a good place to photograph the sunset Within

a matter of minutes I heard someone scream ldquoBEARrdquo and was back up the stairs in seconds There below

us taking an evening stroll through the grass just metres from where we were perched was another much

younger black bear

Our trip could not have ended better Needless

to say Thai Guru thoroughly recommends a visit

to Khao Yai National Park As already mentioned

the park is popular with both local and foreign

tourists especially on holidays and weekends

We advise that you try to visit during the week

when the park is quieter and the chance of

seeing the amazing wildlife is greater

The park has two camping grounds as well as a

few bungalows that can be booked through the

Department of National Parks Wildlife and Plant

Conservation These need to be booked well

in advance However there are also plenty of

guesthouses and hotels are to be found along

the parkrsquos boundaries

Festival of LanternsThe enchanting atmosphere of Loi Krathong

The weather is cooling down and itrsquos

that time of year again when we all

take to the waterways of Thailand and

give praise to Khongkha the water

Goddess who took care of abundant

rainfall in the past raining season

Donrsquot miss this joyful celebration with

its enchanting atmosphere that brings

one and all in Thailand together

much like Songkran

Thailandrsquos lsquoFestival of Lightsrsquo is celebrated

throughout the kingdom on the night of the

November full moon The end of the rainy

season heralds the coolest months in the

countryrsquos calendar when the river waters are

also supposed to be at their highest

Superstition replaces religion on this night as

thousands flock to the banks of the swollen

rivers and canals to release khratongs floating

tributes to the river spirits and Mother Water ndash

Phra Mae Khongkha In recent years the festival

has been revived in the ancient temples of

Thailandrsquos former capital Sukhothai

Visitors assemble in the Sukhothai Historical

Park with their banana leaf khratongs decorated

with flowers incense sticks and candles to take

part in a ceremony that dates back centuries

Sometimes a coin is added as gift to the spirits

The pretty rafts are then released onto the lake

with a wish

It was once believed that Loi Khratong

was actually created in Sukhothai by Nang

Nopphamas a lady of the court and consort

of the king In fact the celebration was adapted

by Thai Buddhists from a Brahmanical festival

adapted to honour Buddha

The khratong is meant to be a light on the

darkness of the water for Buddha A personrsquos

sins and negative thoughts are also believed to

float away with the colourful little raft Try adding

a lock of your hair for extra luck

Nearly 20 of the Northern provinces will be

showing off a dazzling selection of floats in the

Royal Khratongs Procession as well as holding a

Miss Nopphamat beauty contest

A competition is held for the most beautifully

designed khratong as well as plenty of other

Sukhothai arts and cultural performances

The Light-and-Sound Presentation at Wat

Mahathat explains the history and origins of

Sukhothai and Loi Khratong through dance

music prayer combat displays light effects and

fireworks No Loi Khratong would be complete

without fireworks and thankfully the Thais are

not shy when it comes to blowing things up in

the sky

Tra Kuan pond is the place to be for the floating

of the Royal Khratongs followed by more

firmament-filling pyrotechnics Wat Chana

Songkram is the venue for the Mahachat

sermon Khon Marked Dance and a Thai

classical music performance

Thai Guru decided to travel from Chiang Mai

to Sukhotai for this yearrsquos festivities Although

the heavens decided to open for most of the

celebrations on the final day the rain could not

dampen the celebrations and the spectacle was

jaw dropping

The only thing that was missing due to the rain

was a sky filled with khom loi the sky lanterns

usually released into the firmament in their

hundreds

Although the festivities officially last for the best

part of a week it is the last three days that are

the busiest

Visitors can join in with a range of activities

including fruit carving or just wander around the

historic park listening to live traditional music

watching Thai martial arts or join the parade

of dancers musicians and beauty contestants

all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured

costumes

There are numerous places to stay for the

duration of the festival but it is advisable to

book ahead if you can because this is a very

popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north

from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai Temples

A visit to a temple in Thailand is

unavoidable They are everywhere

We at Thai Guru are well aware that

because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can

quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang

Mai With this in mind (and because

the city is overflowing with hundreds

of them) we have chosen a few of

our favourites we hope are slightly

alternative to the ones on the usual

tourist itinerary

Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to

the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its

latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of

the skills of the local silversmiths Like many

of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was

established several centuries ago The ubosoth

or ordination hall is an intricately designed

silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in

the sunlight

The area around Wua Lai has been the home to

silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past

couple of centuries who are famed throughout

the kingdom for creating detailed embossed

relief patterns on the objects they create

something that is immediately evident and

celebrated at Wat Srisuphan

The larger more traditionally decorated red blue

and gold prayer hall also contains impressive

silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos

life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft

museum

Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the

artisans at work and the temple has its own

silver-working school where apprentices are

trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive

Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved

in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-

robed residents of the temple improve their

linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also

available

Unfortunately women are not allowed to

enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this

is explained on a sign outside the wording of

which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in

the monastic boundary many precious things

incantations amulets and other holy objects

were buried over 500 years ago Entering

inside this area may deteriorated the place or

otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most

of the interior can be appreciated from the

doorway

Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous

for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged

Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai

Due to its being less well advertised than its

neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham

is often a more peaceful temple from which

to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang

Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist

Lent when the place was alive with worshippers

Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once

the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic

giants Following a visit from the Buddha the

giants decided to mend their ways stop eating

their neighbours and convert to Buddhism

For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and

offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the

templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally

constructed towards the end of the 7th century

Although the temple fell into disrepair over the

centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered

a chamber containing a number of Buddha

images The discovery led to the revitalisation of

this mountain top temple

The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are

guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured

sword-wielding warriors The courtyard

overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and

bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of

food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the

road leading to the temple

Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-

west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek

and easily accessible by car or taxi

Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai

was being established the name translates

as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably

because it was used to cast Buddha images for

its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The

entrance to the temple is through a small but

intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos

assembly hall is notable because it is one of the

only viharns of its type constructed solely from

teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a

superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock

astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference

to the king who once used the wooden hall as

his palace The gilded image features mythical

creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured

glass

The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite

from the busy road outside Wooden boxes

contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm

leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a

large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors

Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks

like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a

small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less

imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo

temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru

recommends a quick visit if you are passing

Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous

temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi

Luang

The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the

largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it

was damaged either by an earthquake in the

16th century or cannon fire from the guns

of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese

in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO

funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps

up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga

serpents and a group of five elephants (only the

one without a trunk or ears partially survived

whatever caused the structure to collapse the

others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi

was also once home to one of the most revered

religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald

Buddha Although the original now resides in

Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and

once again looks out over the city from a niche

on the east side of the structure

Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and

now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly

hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance

is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a

great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar

housed in a building at the base of the tree

Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although

one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few

alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed

Mae Hong Son

It is said that Mae Hong Son is the

most authentic and mountainous

province of Thailand For Thai Guru a

good reason to explore this province

side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai

province

Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of

Thailand The northern most part of this

province is at a distance of 924 km from

Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province

in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son

borders Myanmar On the south and east side it

borders Tak and Chiang Mai province

We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast

on the 108 road The scenery is woody and

mountainous so far so good And as we leave

the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek

for wildlife and beautiful landscapes

The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage

is that our average speed drops to less than

15 km hour No worries when you do trips

like these the clock stops and the only thing

on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning

landscapes that unfold before your eyes

The main road is well paved But as you might

understand we regularly go off road

This is the best way to come into contact with

locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo

While we are standing somewhere taking in the

beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a

falcon calling

A short walk through the forrest the sound

stops and we decide to sit down for some

water and well earned rest After a short while I

hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo

There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters

above us a white rumped falcon

Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras

it stays there and even when we start making

noises because we want to film it in flight it

takes itrsquos time

Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of

Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They

cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more

Of course they also have their own cattle And

walking through one of their small villages they

are very friendly and hospitable

It has to be said it is never smart to enter

a community or people with your camera

as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask

the people if they mind if you taking their

photograph or want to film their daily life

In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to

the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean

and offers a nice variety food on the terrace

with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city

where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists

Really nice to stroll down the walking street and

find food or a nice souvenir People are very

friendly as usual

From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae

Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an

average speed of 15 km hour

Halfway we jump out of the car into a river

Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to

keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn

but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around

without it

Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome

us and are gladly willing to allow us to make

photographs and film them

In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early

morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises

For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum

After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark

Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon

So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team

ChinatownBangkok

Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese

people in big cities around the world

Manhattan San Francisco Manilla

Paris and Boston have them and

more keep being officially recognised

in their role as historical and touristic

center every year Even places like

Dubai and Las Vegas have modern

day versions of this phenomenon

As soon as you pass under one of the famous

large red entrance arches you arrive in a

complete different world

A world that is paradise for photographers

A couple of the photographers in the Thai

Guru team decided to spend some time in the

Bangkok version of Chinatown

If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for

some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at

Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim

Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat

SLEEPY NANA dream destination

Relatively unknown and uncrowded

Nan has it all This gem of a province

hides an abundance of cultural and

natural attractions ancient temples

pristine forests rivers mountain

peaks but what strikes you most is

its omnipresent feel of an untroubled

authentic way of life

Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings

you this genuine feel in pictures and footage

For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of

Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant

nature and the nature of its people show

Thailand - as is often said before hordes of

tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas

it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan

managed to escape this proces but will it stay

that way Nan shares most of its border with

neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening

of the border and beyond towards China it is to

be expected that it will ultimately become an

important gateway for trade and tourism

Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town

and the countryside will enchant you and the natural

cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy

for at least a couple of days The town along the banks

of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base

to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night

life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous

temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue

influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The

great surroundings can best be explored by renting a

motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo

Much of the province is devoted to farming

Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still

being practised in areas of the province resulting

in a landscape where forests and fields alternate

Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside

of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature

peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich

natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the

province sees far fewer visitors than popular

neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You

can go white water rafting on the Wa River

along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim

National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay

overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes

Touring Nan

Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern

lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities

of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old

salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via

endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges

and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with

orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers

Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready

to be harvested broke through the green hills

giving a golden hue to the landscape

We encountered friendly villagers who worked

their way through the dry fields - meanwhile

singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to

supplement their meager incomes Despite their

hardship they showed us their heartwarming

hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes

with us

This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi

Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and

sparsely populated that we only passed two

cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos

difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand

nowadays

PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river

The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness

begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over

the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above

the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is

broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices

Then the carved image of a Naga becomes

visible above the water line followed by more

than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted

in red and gold colorshellip

During the year the remote provincial town

of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a

year for the annual spectacle of traditional

Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos

water artery The finals are held over two

days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos

banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite

team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in

Thailand yet relatively unknown

The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long

simple shelters where the massive dragon boats

are housed during the year Just once a year

they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos

most important sporting and social event The

event takes place right after the end of the

rainy season around early November when

water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at

their highest The colorful races are part of the

festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the

last day of Buddhist Lent in October

The narrow boats are made from massive

hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters

in length depending how many paddlers they

are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily

distinguishable by their use of bright colors and

mythical designs in the traditional local style

The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of

each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting

only the good ones to participate in their race

How to get there

Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is

connected by plane and by bus to the rest of

the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan

Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice

each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to

Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to

Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on

the service

Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan

(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8

hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)

The contestants of the races are classified into

three categories mdashlarge medium and small

boats Depending on their length each boat can

accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers

sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the

same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously

against the current to the frantic beating of a

drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern

The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying

their attempt to reach the finish line first and

the paddles churning up the river creates a

spectacular atmosphere

Son

g K

ran

in

Ch

ian

g M

ai

Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of

the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down

in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The

days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing

steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the

hot months of April and May The stifling mid-

day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out

unless necessary The buzz around town about

some festival called Song Kran is starting to

increase an underlying excitement rising

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
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Page 24: Thaiguru issue10

Day 1The road leading to the gates of Khao Yai National Park is notable for its

numerous Italian influenced restaurants hotels and guesthouses A paradise

for pizza and pasta lovers there is even a small Italian-style village with ice-

cream parlours eateries and Italian themed guesthouses Almost immediately

after entering the park we were greeted by the sight of black giant squirrels

and pig tailed macaques clamouring in the canopy all around us Our first stop

was the visitor centre where we picked up a map of the park and other useful

information Outside were several sambar deer picking through restaurant

leftovers The rest of the day was spent exploring spots in which to set up

our cameras the following day We also made the first of several walks to the

observation tower adjacent to Nong Pak Chee reservoir As well as fabulous

views of the park the tower overlooks a saltlick where all manner of wildlife

gathers to suck up vital minerals and nutrients

Day 2Khao Yai is extremely popular with visitors and we could only

book lodging within its borders for the last two days of our trip

This meant an early start so we could get into the park in time to

shoot the sunrise We were the first visitors of the day and drove

to one of the places we had explored the day before We came

across what we thought was one of the many sambar or barking

deer that roam freely around the park We decided to take a

closer look only to find we had stumbled across an Asiatic black

bear half hidden in the morning mist Having spotted us after a

few minutes the handsome creature ambled off into the forest

The dawn had barely broken and our day was already a triumph

The rest of our time was spent following gibbons various varieties

deer and innumerable brightly coloured birds

Day 3Today we were fortunate to be allowed to move

ourselves and our equipment into government-

owned lodgings within the park Our first

mission was to set our cameras up at a place

where we had heard the heavy distinctive

rushing of wings and calls of hornbills (described

by some as sounding like the puffing of a steam

locomotive) the day before

We had expected a long wait but already had

our first shots of this impressive bird in the

can before breakfast We spent many hours

photographing hornbills macaque and other

wildlife

We even stumbled upon a pack of Asian wild

dogs gathered around the carcass of a recently

killed deer We thought our wildlife encounters

for the day were over as we sat down to enjoy

dinner only to be disturbed by scuffling sounds

behind our bungalow The noise was being

made by a pair of porcupines who were not in

the least afraid of us and actually attempted to

chase us away

Day 4The day was spent exploring the trails of Khao Yai and discovering among other wildlife a magnificent

crested serpent eagle As the afternoon drew to a close we decided to take one last trip to the watchtower

From here we witnessed the gathering of a large flock of hornbills We showed some of our footage to a

friendly ranger He was particularly interested in our bear shots We were thrilled to be told that it was very

rare to see a black bear even more so when we were informed that none of the rangers had seen one for

a number of months I decided to leave the tower to find a good place to photograph the sunset Within

a matter of minutes I heard someone scream ldquoBEARrdquo and was back up the stairs in seconds There below

us taking an evening stroll through the grass just metres from where we were perched was another much

younger black bear

Our trip could not have ended better Needless

to say Thai Guru thoroughly recommends a visit

to Khao Yai National Park As already mentioned

the park is popular with both local and foreign

tourists especially on holidays and weekends

We advise that you try to visit during the week

when the park is quieter and the chance of

seeing the amazing wildlife is greater

The park has two camping grounds as well as a

few bungalows that can be booked through the

Department of National Parks Wildlife and Plant

Conservation These need to be booked well

in advance However there are also plenty of

guesthouses and hotels are to be found along

the parkrsquos boundaries

Festival of LanternsThe enchanting atmosphere of Loi Krathong

The weather is cooling down and itrsquos

that time of year again when we all

take to the waterways of Thailand and

give praise to Khongkha the water

Goddess who took care of abundant

rainfall in the past raining season

Donrsquot miss this joyful celebration with

its enchanting atmosphere that brings

one and all in Thailand together

much like Songkran

Thailandrsquos lsquoFestival of Lightsrsquo is celebrated

throughout the kingdom on the night of the

November full moon The end of the rainy

season heralds the coolest months in the

countryrsquos calendar when the river waters are

also supposed to be at their highest

Superstition replaces religion on this night as

thousands flock to the banks of the swollen

rivers and canals to release khratongs floating

tributes to the river spirits and Mother Water ndash

Phra Mae Khongkha In recent years the festival

has been revived in the ancient temples of

Thailandrsquos former capital Sukhothai

Visitors assemble in the Sukhothai Historical

Park with their banana leaf khratongs decorated

with flowers incense sticks and candles to take

part in a ceremony that dates back centuries

Sometimes a coin is added as gift to the spirits

The pretty rafts are then released onto the lake

with a wish

It was once believed that Loi Khratong

was actually created in Sukhothai by Nang

Nopphamas a lady of the court and consort

of the king In fact the celebration was adapted

by Thai Buddhists from a Brahmanical festival

adapted to honour Buddha

The khratong is meant to be a light on the

darkness of the water for Buddha A personrsquos

sins and negative thoughts are also believed to

float away with the colourful little raft Try adding

a lock of your hair for extra luck

Nearly 20 of the Northern provinces will be

showing off a dazzling selection of floats in the

Royal Khratongs Procession as well as holding a

Miss Nopphamat beauty contest

A competition is held for the most beautifully

designed khratong as well as plenty of other

Sukhothai arts and cultural performances

The Light-and-Sound Presentation at Wat

Mahathat explains the history and origins of

Sukhothai and Loi Khratong through dance

music prayer combat displays light effects and

fireworks No Loi Khratong would be complete

without fireworks and thankfully the Thais are

not shy when it comes to blowing things up in

the sky

Tra Kuan pond is the place to be for the floating

of the Royal Khratongs followed by more

firmament-filling pyrotechnics Wat Chana

Songkram is the venue for the Mahachat

sermon Khon Marked Dance and a Thai

classical music performance

Thai Guru decided to travel from Chiang Mai

to Sukhotai for this yearrsquos festivities Although

the heavens decided to open for most of the

celebrations on the final day the rain could not

dampen the celebrations and the spectacle was

jaw dropping

The only thing that was missing due to the rain

was a sky filled with khom loi the sky lanterns

usually released into the firmament in their

hundreds

Although the festivities officially last for the best

part of a week it is the last three days that are

the busiest

Visitors can join in with a range of activities

including fruit carving or just wander around the

historic park listening to live traditional music

watching Thai martial arts or join the parade

of dancers musicians and beauty contestants

all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured

costumes

There are numerous places to stay for the

duration of the festival but it is advisable to

book ahead if you can because this is a very

popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north

from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai Temples

A visit to a temple in Thailand is

unavoidable They are everywhere

We at Thai Guru are well aware that

because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can

quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang

Mai With this in mind (and because

the city is overflowing with hundreds

of them) we have chosen a few of

our favourites we hope are slightly

alternative to the ones on the usual

tourist itinerary

Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to

the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its

latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of

the skills of the local silversmiths Like many

of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was

established several centuries ago The ubosoth

or ordination hall is an intricately designed

silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in

the sunlight

The area around Wua Lai has been the home to

silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past

couple of centuries who are famed throughout

the kingdom for creating detailed embossed

relief patterns on the objects they create

something that is immediately evident and

celebrated at Wat Srisuphan

The larger more traditionally decorated red blue

and gold prayer hall also contains impressive

silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos

life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft

museum

Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the

artisans at work and the temple has its own

silver-working school where apprentices are

trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive

Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved

in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-

robed residents of the temple improve their

linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also

available

Unfortunately women are not allowed to

enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this

is explained on a sign outside the wording of

which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in

the monastic boundary many precious things

incantations amulets and other holy objects

were buried over 500 years ago Entering

inside this area may deteriorated the place or

otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most

of the interior can be appreciated from the

doorway

Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous

for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged

Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai

Due to its being less well advertised than its

neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham

is often a more peaceful temple from which

to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang

Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist

Lent when the place was alive with worshippers

Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once

the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic

giants Following a visit from the Buddha the

giants decided to mend their ways stop eating

their neighbours and convert to Buddhism

For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and

offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the

templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally

constructed towards the end of the 7th century

Although the temple fell into disrepair over the

centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered

a chamber containing a number of Buddha

images The discovery led to the revitalisation of

this mountain top temple

The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are

guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured

sword-wielding warriors The courtyard

overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and

bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of

food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the

road leading to the temple

Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-

west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek

and easily accessible by car or taxi

Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai

was being established the name translates

as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably

because it was used to cast Buddha images for

its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The

entrance to the temple is through a small but

intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos

assembly hall is notable because it is one of the

only viharns of its type constructed solely from

teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a

superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock

astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference

to the king who once used the wooden hall as

his palace The gilded image features mythical

creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured

glass

The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite

from the busy road outside Wooden boxes

contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm

leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a

large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors

Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks

like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a

small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less

imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo

temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru

recommends a quick visit if you are passing

Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous

temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi

Luang

The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the

largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it

was damaged either by an earthquake in the

16th century or cannon fire from the guns

of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese

in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO

funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps

up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga

serpents and a group of five elephants (only the

one without a trunk or ears partially survived

whatever caused the structure to collapse the

others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi

was also once home to one of the most revered

religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald

Buddha Although the original now resides in

Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and

once again looks out over the city from a niche

on the east side of the structure

Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and

now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly

hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance

is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a

great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar

housed in a building at the base of the tree

Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although

one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few

alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed

Mae Hong Son

It is said that Mae Hong Son is the

most authentic and mountainous

province of Thailand For Thai Guru a

good reason to explore this province

side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai

province

Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of

Thailand The northern most part of this

province is at a distance of 924 km from

Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province

in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son

borders Myanmar On the south and east side it

borders Tak and Chiang Mai province

We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast

on the 108 road The scenery is woody and

mountainous so far so good And as we leave

the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek

for wildlife and beautiful landscapes

The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage

is that our average speed drops to less than

15 km hour No worries when you do trips

like these the clock stops and the only thing

on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning

landscapes that unfold before your eyes

The main road is well paved But as you might

understand we regularly go off road

This is the best way to come into contact with

locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo

While we are standing somewhere taking in the

beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a

falcon calling

A short walk through the forrest the sound

stops and we decide to sit down for some

water and well earned rest After a short while I

hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo

There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters

above us a white rumped falcon

Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras

it stays there and even when we start making

noises because we want to film it in flight it

takes itrsquos time

Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of

Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They

cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more

Of course they also have their own cattle And

walking through one of their small villages they

are very friendly and hospitable

It has to be said it is never smart to enter

a community or people with your camera

as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask

the people if they mind if you taking their

photograph or want to film their daily life

In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to

the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean

and offers a nice variety food on the terrace

with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city

where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists

Really nice to stroll down the walking street and

find food or a nice souvenir People are very

friendly as usual

From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae

Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an

average speed of 15 km hour

Halfway we jump out of the car into a river

Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to

keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn

but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around

without it

Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome

us and are gladly willing to allow us to make

photographs and film them

In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early

morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises

For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum

After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark

Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon

So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team

ChinatownBangkok

Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese

people in big cities around the world

Manhattan San Francisco Manilla

Paris and Boston have them and

more keep being officially recognised

in their role as historical and touristic

center every year Even places like

Dubai and Las Vegas have modern

day versions of this phenomenon

As soon as you pass under one of the famous

large red entrance arches you arrive in a

complete different world

A world that is paradise for photographers

A couple of the photographers in the Thai

Guru team decided to spend some time in the

Bangkok version of Chinatown

If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for

some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at

Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim

Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat

SLEEPY NANA dream destination

Relatively unknown and uncrowded

Nan has it all This gem of a province

hides an abundance of cultural and

natural attractions ancient temples

pristine forests rivers mountain

peaks but what strikes you most is

its omnipresent feel of an untroubled

authentic way of life

Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings

you this genuine feel in pictures and footage

For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of

Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant

nature and the nature of its people show

Thailand - as is often said before hordes of

tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas

it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan

managed to escape this proces but will it stay

that way Nan shares most of its border with

neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening

of the border and beyond towards China it is to

be expected that it will ultimately become an

important gateway for trade and tourism

Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town

and the countryside will enchant you and the natural

cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy

for at least a couple of days The town along the banks

of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base

to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night

life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous

temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue

influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The

great surroundings can best be explored by renting a

motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo

Much of the province is devoted to farming

Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still

being practised in areas of the province resulting

in a landscape where forests and fields alternate

Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside

of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature

peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich

natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the

province sees far fewer visitors than popular

neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You

can go white water rafting on the Wa River

along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim

National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay

overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes

Touring Nan

Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern

lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities

of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old

salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via

endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges

and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with

orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers

Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready

to be harvested broke through the green hills

giving a golden hue to the landscape

We encountered friendly villagers who worked

their way through the dry fields - meanwhile

singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to

supplement their meager incomes Despite their

hardship they showed us their heartwarming

hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes

with us

This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi

Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and

sparsely populated that we only passed two

cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos

difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand

nowadays

PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river

The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness

begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over

the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above

the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is

broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices

Then the carved image of a Naga becomes

visible above the water line followed by more

than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted

in red and gold colorshellip

During the year the remote provincial town

of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a

year for the annual spectacle of traditional

Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos

water artery The finals are held over two

days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos

banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite

team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in

Thailand yet relatively unknown

The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long

simple shelters where the massive dragon boats

are housed during the year Just once a year

they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos

most important sporting and social event The

event takes place right after the end of the

rainy season around early November when

water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at

their highest The colorful races are part of the

festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the

last day of Buddhist Lent in October

The narrow boats are made from massive

hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters

in length depending how many paddlers they

are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily

distinguishable by their use of bright colors and

mythical designs in the traditional local style

The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of

each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting

only the good ones to participate in their race

How to get there

Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is

connected by plane and by bus to the rest of

the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan

Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice

each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to

Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to

Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on

the service

Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan

(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8

hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)

The contestants of the races are classified into

three categories mdashlarge medium and small

boats Depending on their length each boat can

accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers

sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the

same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously

against the current to the frantic beating of a

drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern

The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying

their attempt to reach the finish line first and

the paddles churning up the river creates a

spectacular atmosphere

Son

g K

ran

in

Ch

ian

g M

ai

Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of

the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down

in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The

days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing

steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the

hot months of April and May The stifling mid-

day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out

unless necessary The buzz around town about

some festival called Song Kran is starting to

increase an underlying excitement rising

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
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Page 25: Thaiguru issue10

Day 2Khao Yai is extremely popular with visitors and we could only

book lodging within its borders for the last two days of our trip

This meant an early start so we could get into the park in time to

shoot the sunrise We were the first visitors of the day and drove

to one of the places we had explored the day before We came

across what we thought was one of the many sambar or barking

deer that roam freely around the park We decided to take a

closer look only to find we had stumbled across an Asiatic black

bear half hidden in the morning mist Having spotted us after a

few minutes the handsome creature ambled off into the forest

The dawn had barely broken and our day was already a triumph

The rest of our time was spent following gibbons various varieties

deer and innumerable brightly coloured birds

Day 3Today we were fortunate to be allowed to move

ourselves and our equipment into government-

owned lodgings within the park Our first

mission was to set our cameras up at a place

where we had heard the heavy distinctive

rushing of wings and calls of hornbills (described

by some as sounding like the puffing of a steam

locomotive) the day before

We had expected a long wait but already had

our first shots of this impressive bird in the

can before breakfast We spent many hours

photographing hornbills macaque and other

wildlife

We even stumbled upon a pack of Asian wild

dogs gathered around the carcass of a recently

killed deer We thought our wildlife encounters

for the day were over as we sat down to enjoy

dinner only to be disturbed by scuffling sounds

behind our bungalow The noise was being

made by a pair of porcupines who were not in

the least afraid of us and actually attempted to

chase us away

Day 4The day was spent exploring the trails of Khao Yai and discovering among other wildlife a magnificent

crested serpent eagle As the afternoon drew to a close we decided to take one last trip to the watchtower

From here we witnessed the gathering of a large flock of hornbills We showed some of our footage to a

friendly ranger He was particularly interested in our bear shots We were thrilled to be told that it was very

rare to see a black bear even more so when we were informed that none of the rangers had seen one for

a number of months I decided to leave the tower to find a good place to photograph the sunset Within

a matter of minutes I heard someone scream ldquoBEARrdquo and was back up the stairs in seconds There below

us taking an evening stroll through the grass just metres from where we were perched was another much

younger black bear

Our trip could not have ended better Needless

to say Thai Guru thoroughly recommends a visit

to Khao Yai National Park As already mentioned

the park is popular with both local and foreign

tourists especially on holidays and weekends

We advise that you try to visit during the week

when the park is quieter and the chance of

seeing the amazing wildlife is greater

The park has two camping grounds as well as a

few bungalows that can be booked through the

Department of National Parks Wildlife and Plant

Conservation These need to be booked well

in advance However there are also plenty of

guesthouses and hotels are to be found along

the parkrsquos boundaries

Festival of LanternsThe enchanting atmosphere of Loi Krathong

The weather is cooling down and itrsquos

that time of year again when we all

take to the waterways of Thailand and

give praise to Khongkha the water

Goddess who took care of abundant

rainfall in the past raining season

Donrsquot miss this joyful celebration with

its enchanting atmosphere that brings

one and all in Thailand together

much like Songkran

Thailandrsquos lsquoFestival of Lightsrsquo is celebrated

throughout the kingdom on the night of the

November full moon The end of the rainy

season heralds the coolest months in the

countryrsquos calendar when the river waters are

also supposed to be at their highest

Superstition replaces religion on this night as

thousands flock to the banks of the swollen

rivers and canals to release khratongs floating

tributes to the river spirits and Mother Water ndash

Phra Mae Khongkha In recent years the festival

has been revived in the ancient temples of

Thailandrsquos former capital Sukhothai

Visitors assemble in the Sukhothai Historical

Park with their banana leaf khratongs decorated

with flowers incense sticks and candles to take

part in a ceremony that dates back centuries

Sometimes a coin is added as gift to the spirits

The pretty rafts are then released onto the lake

with a wish

It was once believed that Loi Khratong

was actually created in Sukhothai by Nang

Nopphamas a lady of the court and consort

of the king In fact the celebration was adapted

by Thai Buddhists from a Brahmanical festival

adapted to honour Buddha

The khratong is meant to be a light on the

darkness of the water for Buddha A personrsquos

sins and negative thoughts are also believed to

float away with the colourful little raft Try adding

a lock of your hair for extra luck

Nearly 20 of the Northern provinces will be

showing off a dazzling selection of floats in the

Royal Khratongs Procession as well as holding a

Miss Nopphamat beauty contest

A competition is held for the most beautifully

designed khratong as well as plenty of other

Sukhothai arts and cultural performances

The Light-and-Sound Presentation at Wat

Mahathat explains the history and origins of

Sukhothai and Loi Khratong through dance

music prayer combat displays light effects and

fireworks No Loi Khratong would be complete

without fireworks and thankfully the Thais are

not shy when it comes to blowing things up in

the sky

Tra Kuan pond is the place to be for the floating

of the Royal Khratongs followed by more

firmament-filling pyrotechnics Wat Chana

Songkram is the venue for the Mahachat

sermon Khon Marked Dance and a Thai

classical music performance

Thai Guru decided to travel from Chiang Mai

to Sukhotai for this yearrsquos festivities Although

the heavens decided to open for most of the

celebrations on the final day the rain could not

dampen the celebrations and the spectacle was

jaw dropping

The only thing that was missing due to the rain

was a sky filled with khom loi the sky lanterns

usually released into the firmament in their

hundreds

Although the festivities officially last for the best

part of a week it is the last three days that are

the busiest

Visitors can join in with a range of activities

including fruit carving or just wander around the

historic park listening to live traditional music

watching Thai martial arts or join the parade

of dancers musicians and beauty contestants

all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured

costumes

There are numerous places to stay for the

duration of the festival but it is advisable to

book ahead if you can because this is a very

popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north

from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai Temples

A visit to a temple in Thailand is

unavoidable They are everywhere

We at Thai Guru are well aware that

because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can

quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang

Mai With this in mind (and because

the city is overflowing with hundreds

of them) we have chosen a few of

our favourites we hope are slightly

alternative to the ones on the usual

tourist itinerary

Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to

the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its

latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of

the skills of the local silversmiths Like many

of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was

established several centuries ago The ubosoth

or ordination hall is an intricately designed

silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in

the sunlight

The area around Wua Lai has been the home to

silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past

couple of centuries who are famed throughout

the kingdom for creating detailed embossed

relief patterns on the objects they create

something that is immediately evident and

celebrated at Wat Srisuphan

The larger more traditionally decorated red blue

and gold prayer hall also contains impressive

silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos

life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft

museum

Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the

artisans at work and the temple has its own

silver-working school where apprentices are

trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive

Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved

in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-

robed residents of the temple improve their

linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also

available

Unfortunately women are not allowed to

enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this

is explained on a sign outside the wording of

which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in

the monastic boundary many precious things

incantations amulets and other holy objects

were buried over 500 years ago Entering

inside this area may deteriorated the place or

otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most

of the interior can be appreciated from the

doorway

Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous

for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged

Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai

Due to its being less well advertised than its

neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham

is often a more peaceful temple from which

to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang

Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist

Lent when the place was alive with worshippers

Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once

the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic

giants Following a visit from the Buddha the

giants decided to mend their ways stop eating

their neighbours and convert to Buddhism

For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and

offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the

templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally

constructed towards the end of the 7th century

Although the temple fell into disrepair over the

centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered

a chamber containing a number of Buddha

images The discovery led to the revitalisation of

this mountain top temple

The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are

guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured

sword-wielding warriors The courtyard

overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and

bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of

food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the

road leading to the temple

Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-

west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek

and easily accessible by car or taxi

Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai

was being established the name translates

as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably

because it was used to cast Buddha images for

its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The

entrance to the temple is through a small but

intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos

assembly hall is notable because it is one of the

only viharns of its type constructed solely from

teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a

superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock

astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference

to the king who once used the wooden hall as

his palace The gilded image features mythical

creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured

glass

The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite

from the busy road outside Wooden boxes

contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm

leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a

large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors

Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks

like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a

small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less

imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo

temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru

recommends a quick visit if you are passing

Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous

temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi

Luang

The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the

largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it

was damaged either by an earthquake in the

16th century or cannon fire from the guns

of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese

in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO

funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps

up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga

serpents and a group of five elephants (only the

one without a trunk or ears partially survived

whatever caused the structure to collapse the

others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi

was also once home to one of the most revered

religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald

Buddha Although the original now resides in

Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and

once again looks out over the city from a niche

on the east side of the structure

Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and

now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly

hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance

is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a

great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar

housed in a building at the base of the tree

Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although

one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few

alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed

Mae Hong Son

It is said that Mae Hong Son is the

most authentic and mountainous

province of Thailand For Thai Guru a

good reason to explore this province

side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai

province

Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of

Thailand The northern most part of this

province is at a distance of 924 km from

Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province

in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son

borders Myanmar On the south and east side it

borders Tak and Chiang Mai province

We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast

on the 108 road The scenery is woody and

mountainous so far so good And as we leave

the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek

for wildlife and beautiful landscapes

The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage

is that our average speed drops to less than

15 km hour No worries when you do trips

like these the clock stops and the only thing

on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning

landscapes that unfold before your eyes

The main road is well paved But as you might

understand we regularly go off road

This is the best way to come into contact with

locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo

While we are standing somewhere taking in the

beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a

falcon calling

A short walk through the forrest the sound

stops and we decide to sit down for some

water and well earned rest After a short while I

hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo

There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters

above us a white rumped falcon

Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras

it stays there and even when we start making

noises because we want to film it in flight it

takes itrsquos time

Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of

Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They

cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more

Of course they also have their own cattle And

walking through one of their small villages they

are very friendly and hospitable

It has to be said it is never smart to enter

a community or people with your camera

as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask

the people if they mind if you taking their

photograph or want to film their daily life

In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to

the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean

and offers a nice variety food on the terrace

with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city

where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists

Really nice to stroll down the walking street and

find food or a nice souvenir People are very

friendly as usual

From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae

Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an

average speed of 15 km hour

Halfway we jump out of the car into a river

Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to

keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn

but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around

without it

Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome

us and are gladly willing to allow us to make

photographs and film them

In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early

morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises

For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum

After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark

Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon

So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team

ChinatownBangkok

Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese

people in big cities around the world

Manhattan San Francisco Manilla

Paris and Boston have them and

more keep being officially recognised

in their role as historical and touristic

center every year Even places like

Dubai and Las Vegas have modern

day versions of this phenomenon

As soon as you pass under one of the famous

large red entrance arches you arrive in a

complete different world

A world that is paradise for photographers

A couple of the photographers in the Thai

Guru team decided to spend some time in the

Bangkok version of Chinatown

If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for

some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at

Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim

Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat

SLEEPY NANA dream destination

Relatively unknown and uncrowded

Nan has it all This gem of a province

hides an abundance of cultural and

natural attractions ancient temples

pristine forests rivers mountain

peaks but what strikes you most is

its omnipresent feel of an untroubled

authentic way of life

Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings

you this genuine feel in pictures and footage

For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of

Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant

nature and the nature of its people show

Thailand - as is often said before hordes of

tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas

it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan

managed to escape this proces but will it stay

that way Nan shares most of its border with

neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening

of the border and beyond towards China it is to

be expected that it will ultimately become an

important gateway for trade and tourism

Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town

and the countryside will enchant you and the natural

cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy

for at least a couple of days The town along the banks

of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base

to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night

life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous

temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue

influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The

great surroundings can best be explored by renting a

motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo

Much of the province is devoted to farming

Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still

being practised in areas of the province resulting

in a landscape where forests and fields alternate

Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside

of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature

peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich

natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the

province sees far fewer visitors than popular

neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You

can go white water rafting on the Wa River

along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim

National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay

overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes

Touring Nan

Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern

lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities

of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old

salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via

endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges

and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with

orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers

Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready

to be harvested broke through the green hills

giving a golden hue to the landscape

We encountered friendly villagers who worked

their way through the dry fields - meanwhile

singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to

supplement their meager incomes Despite their

hardship they showed us their heartwarming

hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes

with us

This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi

Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and

sparsely populated that we only passed two

cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos

difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand

nowadays

PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river

The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness

begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over

the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above

the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is

broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices

Then the carved image of a Naga becomes

visible above the water line followed by more

than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted

in red and gold colorshellip

During the year the remote provincial town

of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a

year for the annual spectacle of traditional

Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos

water artery The finals are held over two

days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos

banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite

team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in

Thailand yet relatively unknown

The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long

simple shelters where the massive dragon boats

are housed during the year Just once a year

they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos

most important sporting and social event The

event takes place right after the end of the

rainy season around early November when

water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at

their highest The colorful races are part of the

festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the

last day of Buddhist Lent in October

The narrow boats are made from massive

hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters

in length depending how many paddlers they

are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily

distinguishable by their use of bright colors and

mythical designs in the traditional local style

The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of

each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting

only the good ones to participate in their race

How to get there

Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is

connected by plane and by bus to the rest of

the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan

Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice

each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to

Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to

Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on

the service

Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan

(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8

hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)

The contestants of the races are classified into

three categories mdashlarge medium and small

boats Depending on their length each boat can

accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers

sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the

same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously

against the current to the frantic beating of a

drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern

The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying

their attempt to reach the finish line first and

the paddles churning up the river creates a

spectacular atmosphere

Son

g K

ran

in

Ch

ian

g M

ai

Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of

the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down

in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The

days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing

steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the

hot months of April and May The stifling mid-

day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out

unless necessary The buzz around town about

some festival called Song Kran is starting to

increase an underlying excitement rising

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
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  3. Button 9
  4. previous
  5. next
Page 26: Thaiguru issue10

Day 3Today we were fortunate to be allowed to move

ourselves and our equipment into government-

owned lodgings within the park Our first

mission was to set our cameras up at a place

where we had heard the heavy distinctive

rushing of wings and calls of hornbills (described

by some as sounding like the puffing of a steam

locomotive) the day before

We had expected a long wait but already had

our first shots of this impressive bird in the

can before breakfast We spent many hours

photographing hornbills macaque and other

wildlife

We even stumbled upon a pack of Asian wild

dogs gathered around the carcass of a recently

killed deer We thought our wildlife encounters

for the day were over as we sat down to enjoy

dinner only to be disturbed by scuffling sounds

behind our bungalow The noise was being

made by a pair of porcupines who were not in

the least afraid of us and actually attempted to

chase us away

Day 4The day was spent exploring the trails of Khao Yai and discovering among other wildlife a magnificent

crested serpent eagle As the afternoon drew to a close we decided to take one last trip to the watchtower

From here we witnessed the gathering of a large flock of hornbills We showed some of our footage to a

friendly ranger He was particularly interested in our bear shots We were thrilled to be told that it was very

rare to see a black bear even more so when we were informed that none of the rangers had seen one for

a number of months I decided to leave the tower to find a good place to photograph the sunset Within

a matter of minutes I heard someone scream ldquoBEARrdquo and was back up the stairs in seconds There below

us taking an evening stroll through the grass just metres from where we were perched was another much

younger black bear

Our trip could not have ended better Needless

to say Thai Guru thoroughly recommends a visit

to Khao Yai National Park As already mentioned

the park is popular with both local and foreign

tourists especially on holidays and weekends

We advise that you try to visit during the week

when the park is quieter and the chance of

seeing the amazing wildlife is greater

The park has two camping grounds as well as a

few bungalows that can be booked through the

Department of National Parks Wildlife and Plant

Conservation These need to be booked well

in advance However there are also plenty of

guesthouses and hotels are to be found along

the parkrsquos boundaries

Festival of LanternsThe enchanting atmosphere of Loi Krathong

The weather is cooling down and itrsquos

that time of year again when we all

take to the waterways of Thailand and

give praise to Khongkha the water

Goddess who took care of abundant

rainfall in the past raining season

Donrsquot miss this joyful celebration with

its enchanting atmosphere that brings

one and all in Thailand together

much like Songkran

Thailandrsquos lsquoFestival of Lightsrsquo is celebrated

throughout the kingdom on the night of the

November full moon The end of the rainy

season heralds the coolest months in the

countryrsquos calendar when the river waters are

also supposed to be at their highest

Superstition replaces religion on this night as

thousands flock to the banks of the swollen

rivers and canals to release khratongs floating

tributes to the river spirits and Mother Water ndash

Phra Mae Khongkha In recent years the festival

has been revived in the ancient temples of

Thailandrsquos former capital Sukhothai

Visitors assemble in the Sukhothai Historical

Park with their banana leaf khratongs decorated

with flowers incense sticks and candles to take

part in a ceremony that dates back centuries

Sometimes a coin is added as gift to the spirits

The pretty rafts are then released onto the lake

with a wish

It was once believed that Loi Khratong

was actually created in Sukhothai by Nang

Nopphamas a lady of the court and consort

of the king In fact the celebration was adapted

by Thai Buddhists from a Brahmanical festival

adapted to honour Buddha

The khratong is meant to be a light on the

darkness of the water for Buddha A personrsquos

sins and negative thoughts are also believed to

float away with the colourful little raft Try adding

a lock of your hair for extra luck

Nearly 20 of the Northern provinces will be

showing off a dazzling selection of floats in the

Royal Khratongs Procession as well as holding a

Miss Nopphamat beauty contest

A competition is held for the most beautifully

designed khratong as well as plenty of other

Sukhothai arts and cultural performances

The Light-and-Sound Presentation at Wat

Mahathat explains the history and origins of

Sukhothai and Loi Khratong through dance

music prayer combat displays light effects and

fireworks No Loi Khratong would be complete

without fireworks and thankfully the Thais are

not shy when it comes to blowing things up in

the sky

Tra Kuan pond is the place to be for the floating

of the Royal Khratongs followed by more

firmament-filling pyrotechnics Wat Chana

Songkram is the venue for the Mahachat

sermon Khon Marked Dance and a Thai

classical music performance

Thai Guru decided to travel from Chiang Mai

to Sukhotai for this yearrsquos festivities Although

the heavens decided to open for most of the

celebrations on the final day the rain could not

dampen the celebrations and the spectacle was

jaw dropping

The only thing that was missing due to the rain

was a sky filled with khom loi the sky lanterns

usually released into the firmament in their

hundreds

Although the festivities officially last for the best

part of a week it is the last three days that are

the busiest

Visitors can join in with a range of activities

including fruit carving or just wander around the

historic park listening to live traditional music

watching Thai martial arts or join the parade

of dancers musicians and beauty contestants

all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured

costumes

There are numerous places to stay for the

duration of the festival but it is advisable to

book ahead if you can because this is a very

popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north

from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai Temples

A visit to a temple in Thailand is

unavoidable They are everywhere

We at Thai Guru are well aware that

because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can

quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang

Mai With this in mind (and because

the city is overflowing with hundreds

of them) we have chosen a few of

our favourites we hope are slightly

alternative to the ones on the usual

tourist itinerary

Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to

the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its

latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of

the skills of the local silversmiths Like many

of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was

established several centuries ago The ubosoth

or ordination hall is an intricately designed

silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in

the sunlight

The area around Wua Lai has been the home to

silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past

couple of centuries who are famed throughout

the kingdom for creating detailed embossed

relief patterns on the objects they create

something that is immediately evident and

celebrated at Wat Srisuphan

The larger more traditionally decorated red blue

and gold prayer hall also contains impressive

silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos

life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft

museum

Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the

artisans at work and the temple has its own

silver-working school where apprentices are

trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive

Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved

in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-

robed residents of the temple improve their

linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also

available

Unfortunately women are not allowed to

enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this

is explained on a sign outside the wording of

which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in

the monastic boundary many precious things

incantations amulets and other holy objects

were buried over 500 years ago Entering

inside this area may deteriorated the place or

otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most

of the interior can be appreciated from the

doorway

Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous

for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged

Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai

Due to its being less well advertised than its

neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham

is often a more peaceful temple from which

to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang

Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist

Lent when the place was alive with worshippers

Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once

the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic

giants Following a visit from the Buddha the

giants decided to mend their ways stop eating

their neighbours and convert to Buddhism

For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and

offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the

templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally

constructed towards the end of the 7th century

Although the temple fell into disrepair over the

centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered

a chamber containing a number of Buddha

images The discovery led to the revitalisation of

this mountain top temple

The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are

guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured

sword-wielding warriors The courtyard

overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and

bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of

food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the

road leading to the temple

Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-

west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek

and easily accessible by car or taxi

Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai

was being established the name translates

as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably

because it was used to cast Buddha images for

its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The

entrance to the temple is through a small but

intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos

assembly hall is notable because it is one of the

only viharns of its type constructed solely from

teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a

superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock

astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference

to the king who once used the wooden hall as

his palace The gilded image features mythical

creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured

glass

The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite

from the busy road outside Wooden boxes

contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm

leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a

large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors

Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks

like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a

small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less

imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo

temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru

recommends a quick visit if you are passing

Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous

temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi

Luang

The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the

largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it

was damaged either by an earthquake in the

16th century or cannon fire from the guns

of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese

in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO

funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps

up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga

serpents and a group of five elephants (only the

one without a trunk or ears partially survived

whatever caused the structure to collapse the

others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi

was also once home to one of the most revered

religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald

Buddha Although the original now resides in

Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and

once again looks out over the city from a niche

on the east side of the structure

Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and

now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly

hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance

is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a

great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar

housed in a building at the base of the tree

Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although

one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few

alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed

Mae Hong Son

It is said that Mae Hong Son is the

most authentic and mountainous

province of Thailand For Thai Guru a

good reason to explore this province

side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai

province

Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of

Thailand The northern most part of this

province is at a distance of 924 km from

Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province

in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son

borders Myanmar On the south and east side it

borders Tak and Chiang Mai province

We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast

on the 108 road The scenery is woody and

mountainous so far so good And as we leave

the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek

for wildlife and beautiful landscapes

The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage

is that our average speed drops to less than

15 km hour No worries when you do trips

like these the clock stops and the only thing

on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning

landscapes that unfold before your eyes

The main road is well paved But as you might

understand we regularly go off road

This is the best way to come into contact with

locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo

While we are standing somewhere taking in the

beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a

falcon calling

A short walk through the forrest the sound

stops and we decide to sit down for some

water and well earned rest After a short while I

hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo

There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters

above us a white rumped falcon

Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras

it stays there and even when we start making

noises because we want to film it in flight it

takes itrsquos time

Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of

Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They

cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more

Of course they also have their own cattle And

walking through one of their small villages they

are very friendly and hospitable

It has to be said it is never smart to enter

a community or people with your camera

as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask

the people if they mind if you taking their

photograph or want to film their daily life

In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to

the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean

and offers a nice variety food on the terrace

with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city

where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists

Really nice to stroll down the walking street and

find food or a nice souvenir People are very

friendly as usual

From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae

Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an

average speed of 15 km hour

Halfway we jump out of the car into a river

Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to

keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn

but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around

without it

Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome

us and are gladly willing to allow us to make

photographs and film them

In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early

morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises

For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum

After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark

Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon

So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team

ChinatownBangkok

Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese

people in big cities around the world

Manhattan San Francisco Manilla

Paris and Boston have them and

more keep being officially recognised

in their role as historical and touristic

center every year Even places like

Dubai and Las Vegas have modern

day versions of this phenomenon

As soon as you pass under one of the famous

large red entrance arches you arrive in a

complete different world

A world that is paradise for photographers

A couple of the photographers in the Thai

Guru team decided to spend some time in the

Bangkok version of Chinatown

If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for

some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at

Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim

Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat

SLEEPY NANA dream destination

Relatively unknown and uncrowded

Nan has it all This gem of a province

hides an abundance of cultural and

natural attractions ancient temples

pristine forests rivers mountain

peaks but what strikes you most is

its omnipresent feel of an untroubled

authentic way of life

Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings

you this genuine feel in pictures and footage

For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of

Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant

nature and the nature of its people show

Thailand - as is often said before hordes of

tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas

it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan

managed to escape this proces but will it stay

that way Nan shares most of its border with

neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening

of the border and beyond towards China it is to

be expected that it will ultimately become an

important gateway for trade and tourism

Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town

and the countryside will enchant you and the natural

cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy

for at least a couple of days The town along the banks

of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base

to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night

life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous

temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue

influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The

great surroundings can best be explored by renting a

motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo

Much of the province is devoted to farming

Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still

being practised in areas of the province resulting

in a landscape where forests and fields alternate

Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside

of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature

peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich

natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the

province sees far fewer visitors than popular

neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You

can go white water rafting on the Wa River

along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim

National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay

overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes

Touring Nan

Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern

lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities

of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old

salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via

endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges

and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with

orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers

Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready

to be harvested broke through the green hills

giving a golden hue to the landscape

We encountered friendly villagers who worked

their way through the dry fields - meanwhile

singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to

supplement their meager incomes Despite their

hardship they showed us their heartwarming

hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes

with us

This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi

Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and

sparsely populated that we only passed two

cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos

difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand

nowadays

PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river

The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness

begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over

the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above

the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is

broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices

Then the carved image of a Naga becomes

visible above the water line followed by more

than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted

in red and gold colorshellip

During the year the remote provincial town

of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a

year for the annual spectacle of traditional

Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos

water artery The finals are held over two

days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos

banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite

team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in

Thailand yet relatively unknown

The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long

simple shelters where the massive dragon boats

are housed during the year Just once a year

they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos

most important sporting and social event The

event takes place right after the end of the

rainy season around early November when

water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at

their highest The colorful races are part of the

festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the

last day of Buddhist Lent in October

The narrow boats are made from massive

hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters

in length depending how many paddlers they

are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily

distinguishable by their use of bright colors and

mythical designs in the traditional local style

The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of

each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting

only the good ones to participate in their race

How to get there

Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is

connected by plane and by bus to the rest of

the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan

Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice

each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to

Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to

Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on

the service

Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan

(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8

hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)

The contestants of the races are classified into

three categories mdashlarge medium and small

boats Depending on their length each boat can

accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers

sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the

same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously

against the current to the frantic beating of a

drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern

The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying

their attempt to reach the finish line first and

the paddles churning up the river creates a

spectacular atmosphere

Son

g K

ran

in

Ch

ian

g M

ai

Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of

the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down

in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The

days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing

steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the

hot months of April and May The stifling mid-

day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out

unless necessary The buzz around town about

some festival called Song Kran is starting to

increase an underlying excitement rising

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
  2. Button 4
  3. Button 9
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  5. next
Page 27: Thaiguru issue10

Day 4The day was spent exploring the trails of Khao Yai and discovering among other wildlife a magnificent

crested serpent eagle As the afternoon drew to a close we decided to take one last trip to the watchtower

From here we witnessed the gathering of a large flock of hornbills We showed some of our footage to a

friendly ranger He was particularly interested in our bear shots We were thrilled to be told that it was very

rare to see a black bear even more so when we were informed that none of the rangers had seen one for

a number of months I decided to leave the tower to find a good place to photograph the sunset Within

a matter of minutes I heard someone scream ldquoBEARrdquo and was back up the stairs in seconds There below

us taking an evening stroll through the grass just metres from where we were perched was another much

younger black bear

Our trip could not have ended better Needless

to say Thai Guru thoroughly recommends a visit

to Khao Yai National Park As already mentioned

the park is popular with both local and foreign

tourists especially on holidays and weekends

We advise that you try to visit during the week

when the park is quieter and the chance of

seeing the amazing wildlife is greater

The park has two camping grounds as well as a

few bungalows that can be booked through the

Department of National Parks Wildlife and Plant

Conservation These need to be booked well

in advance However there are also plenty of

guesthouses and hotels are to be found along

the parkrsquos boundaries

Festival of LanternsThe enchanting atmosphere of Loi Krathong

The weather is cooling down and itrsquos

that time of year again when we all

take to the waterways of Thailand and

give praise to Khongkha the water

Goddess who took care of abundant

rainfall in the past raining season

Donrsquot miss this joyful celebration with

its enchanting atmosphere that brings

one and all in Thailand together

much like Songkran

Thailandrsquos lsquoFestival of Lightsrsquo is celebrated

throughout the kingdom on the night of the

November full moon The end of the rainy

season heralds the coolest months in the

countryrsquos calendar when the river waters are

also supposed to be at their highest

Superstition replaces religion on this night as

thousands flock to the banks of the swollen

rivers and canals to release khratongs floating

tributes to the river spirits and Mother Water ndash

Phra Mae Khongkha In recent years the festival

has been revived in the ancient temples of

Thailandrsquos former capital Sukhothai

Visitors assemble in the Sukhothai Historical

Park with their banana leaf khratongs decorated

with flowers incense sticks and candles to take

part in a ceremony that dates back centuries

Sometimes a coin is added as gift to the spirits

The pretty rafts are then released onto the lake

with a wish

It was once believed that Loi Khratong

was actually created in Sukhothai by Nang

Nopphamas a lady of the court and consort

of the king In fact the celebration was adapted

by Thai Buddhists from a Brahmanical festival

adapted to honour Buddha

The khratong is meant to be a light on the

darkness of the water for Buddha A personrsquos

sins and negative thoughts are also believed to

float away with the colourful little raft Try adding

a lock of your hair for extra luck

Nearly 20 of the Northern provinces will be

showing off a dazzling selection of floats in the

Royal Khratongs Procession as well as holding a

Miss Nopphamat beauty contest

A competition is held for the most beautifully

designed khratong as well as plenty of other

Sukhothai arts and cultural performances

The Light-and-Sound Presentation at Wat

Mahathat explains the history and origins of

Sukhothai and Loi Khratong through dance

music prayer combat displays light effects and

fireworks No Loi Khratong would be complete

without fireworks and thankfully the Thais are

not shy when it comes to blowing things up in

the sky

Tra Kuan pond is the place to be for the floating

of the Royal Khratongs followed by more

firmament-filling pyrotechnics Wat Chana

Songkram is the venue for the Mahachat

sermon Khon Marked Dance and a Thai

classical music performance

Thai Guru decided to travel from Chiang Mai

to Sukhotai for this yearrsquos festivities Although

the heavens decided to open for most of the

celebrations on the final day the rain could not

dampen the celebrations and the spectacle was

jaw dropping

The only thing that was missing due to the rain

was a sky filled with khom loi the sky lanterns

usually released into the firmament in their

hundreds

Although the festivities officially last for the best

part of a week it is the last three days that are

the busiest

Visitors can join in with a range of activities

including fruit carving or just wander around the

historic park listening to live traditional music

watching Thai martial arts or join the parade

of dancers musicians and beauty contestants

all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured

costumes

There are numerous places to stay for the

duration of the festival but it is advisable to

book ahead if you can because this is a very

popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north

from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai Temples

A visit to a temple in Thailand is

unavoidable They are everywhere

We at Thai Guru are well aware that

because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can

quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang

Mai With this in mind (and because

the city is overflowing with hundreds

of them) we have chosen a few of

our favourites we hope are slightly

alternative to the ones on the usual

tourist itinerary

Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to

the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its

latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of

the skills of the local silversmiths Like many

of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was

established several centuries ago The ubosoth

or ordination hall is an intricately designed

silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in

the sunlight

The area around Wua Lai has been the home to

silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past

couple of centuries who are famed throughout

the kingdom for creating detailed embossed

relief patterns on the objects they create

something that is immediately evident and

celebrated at Wat Srisuphan

The larger more traditionally decorated red blue

and gold prayer hall also contains impressive

silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos

life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft

museum

Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the

artisans at work and the temple has its own

silver-working school where apprentices are

trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive

Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved

in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-

robed residents of the temple improve their

linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also

available

Unfortunately women are not allowed to

enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this

is explained on a sign outside the wording of

which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in

the monastic boundary many precious things

incantations amulets and other holy objects

were buried over 500 years ago Entering

inside this area may deteriorated the place or

otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most

of the interior can be appreciated from the

doorway

Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous

for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged

Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai

Due to its being less well advertised than its

neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham

is often a more peaceful temple from which

to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang

Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist

Lent when the place was alive with worshippers

Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once

the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic

giants Following a visit from the Buddha the

giants decided to mend their ways stop eating

their neighbours and convert to Buddhism

For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and

offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the

templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally

constructed towards the end of the 7th century

Although the temple fell into disrepair over the

centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered

a chamber containing a number of Buddha

images The discovery led to the revitalisation of

this mountain top temple

The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are

guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured

sword-wielding warriors The courtyard

overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and

bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of

food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the

road leading to the temple

Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-

west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek

and easily accessible by car or taxi

Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai

was being established the name translates

as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably

because it was used to cast Buddha images for

its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The

entrance to the temple is through a small but

intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos

assembly hall is notable because it is one of the

only viharns of its type constructed solely from

teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a

superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock

astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference

to the king who once used the wooden hall as

his palace The gilded image features mythical

creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured

glass

The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite

from the busy road outside Wooden boxes

contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm

leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a

large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors

Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks

like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a

small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less

imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo

temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru

recommends a quick visit if you are passing

Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous

temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi

Luang

The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the

largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it

was damaged either by an earthquake in the

16th century or cannon fire from the guns

of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese

in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO

funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps

up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga

serpents and a group of five elephants (only the

one without a trunk or ears partially survived

whatever caused the structure to collapse the

others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi

was also once home to one of the most revered

religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald

Buddha Although the original now resides in

Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and

once again looks out over the city from a niche

on the east side of the structure

Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and

now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly

hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance

is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a

great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar

housed in a building at the base of the tree

Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although

one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few

alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed

Mae Hong Son

It is said that Mae Hong Son is the

most authentic and mountainous

province of Thailand For Thai Guru a

good reason to explore this province

side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai

province

Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of

Thailand The northern most part of this

province is at a distance of 924 km from

Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province

in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son

borders Myanmar On the south and east side it

borders Tak and Chiang Mai province

We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast

on the 108 road The scenery is woody and

mountainous so far so good And as we leave

the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek

for wildlife and beautiful landscapes

The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage

is that our average speed drops to less than

15 km hour No worries when you do trips

like these the clock stops and the only thing

on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning

landscapes that unfold before your eyes

The main road is well paved But as you might

understand we regularly go off road

This is the best way to come into contact with

locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo

While we are standing somewhere taking in the

beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a

falcon calling

A short walk through the forrest the sound

stops and we decide to sit down for some

water and well earned rest After a short while I

hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo

There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters

above us a white rumped falcon

Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras

it stays there and even when we start making

noises because we want to film it in flight it

takes itrsquos time

Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of

Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They

cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more

Of course they also have their own cattle And

walking through one of their small villages they

are very friendly and hospitable

It has to be said it is never smart to enter

a community or people with your camera

as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask

the people if they mind if you taking their

photograph or want to film their daily life

In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to

the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean

and offers a nice variety food on the terrace

with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city

where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists

Really nice to stroll down the walking street and

find food or a nice souvenir People are very

friendly as usual

From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae

Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an

average speed of 15 km hour

Halfway we jump out of the car into a river

Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to

keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn

but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around

without it

Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome

us and are gladly willing to allow us to make

photographs and film them

In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early

morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises

For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum

After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark

Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon

So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team

ChinatownBangkok

Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese

people in big cities around the world

Manhattan San Francisco Manilla

Paris and Boston have them and

more keep being officially recognised

in their role as historical and touristic

center every year Even places like

Dubai and Las Vegas have modern

day versions of this phenomenon

As soon as you pass under one of the famous

large red entrance arches you arrive in a

complete different world

A world that is paradise for photographers

A couple of the photographers in the Thai

Guru team decided to spend some time in the

Bangkok version of Chinatown

If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for

some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at

Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim

Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat

SLEEPY NANA dream destination

Relatively unknown and uncrowded

Nan has it all This gem of a province

hides an abundance of cultural and

natural attractions ancient temples

pristine forests rivers mountain

peaks but what strikes you most is

its omnipresent feel of an untroubled

authentic way of life

Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings

you this genuine feel in pictures and footage

For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of

Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant

nature and the nature of its people show

Thailand - as is often said before hordes of

tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas

it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan

managed to escape this proces but will it stay

that way Nan shares most of its border with

neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening

of the border and beyond towards China it is to

be expected that it will ultimately become an

important gateway for trade and tourism

Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town

and the countryside will enchant you and the natural

cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy

for at least a couple of days The town along the banks

of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base

to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night

life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous

temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue

influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The

great surroundings can best be explored by renting a

motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo

Much of the province is devoted to farming

Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still

being practised in areas of the province resulting

in a landscape where forests and fields alternate

Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside

of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature

peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich

natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the

province sees far fewer visitors than popular

neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You

can go white water rafting on the Wa River

along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim

National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay

overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes

Touring Nan

Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern

lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities

of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old

salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via

endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges

and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with

orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers

Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready

to be harvested broke through the green hills

giving a golden hue to the landscape

We encountered friendly villagers who worked

their way through the dry fields - meanwhile

singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to

supplement their meager incomes Despite their

hardship they showed us their heartwarming

hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes

with us

This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi

Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and

sparsely populated that we only passed two

cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos

difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand

nowadays

PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river

The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness

begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over

the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above

the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is

broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices

Then the carved image of a Naga becomes

visible above the water line followed by more

than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted

in red and gold colorshellip

During the year the remote provincial town

of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a

year for the annual spectacle of traditional

Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos

water artery The finals are held over two

days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos

banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite

team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in

Thailand yet relatively unknown

The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long

simple shelters where the massive dragon boats

are housed during the year Just once a year

they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos

most important sporting and social event The

event takes place right after the end of the

rainy season around early November when

water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at

their highest The colorful races are part of the

festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the

last day of Buddhist Lent in October

The narrow boats are made from massive

hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters

in length depending how many paddlers they

are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily

distinguishable by their use of bright colors and

mythical designs in the traditional local style

The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of

each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting

only the good ones to participate in their race

How to get there

Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is

connected by plane and by bus to the rest of

the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan

Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice

each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to

Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to

Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on

the service

Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan

(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8

hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)

The contestants of the races are classified into

three categories mdashlarge medium and small

boats Depending on their length each boat can

accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers

sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the

same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously

against the current to the frantic beating of a

drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern

The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying

their attempt to reach the finish line first and

the paddles churning up the river creates a

spectacular atmosphere

Son

g K

ran

in

Ch

ian

g M

ai

Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of

the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down

in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The

days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing

steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the

hot months of April and May The stifling mid-

day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out

unless necessary The buzz around town about

some festival called Song Kran is starting to

increase an underlying excitement rising

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
  2. Button 4
  3. Button 9
  4. previous
  5. next
Page 28: Thaiguru issue10

Our trip could not have ended better Needless

to say Thai Guru thoroughly recommends a visit

to Khao Yai National Park As already mentioned

the park is popular with both local and foreign

tourists especially on holidays and weekends

We advise that you try to visit during the week

when the park is quieter and the chance of

seeing the amazing wildlife is greater

The park has two camping grounds as well as a

few bungalows that can be booked through the

Department of National Parks Wildlife and Plant

Conservation These need to be booked well

in advance However there are also plenty of

guesthouses and hotels are to be found along

the parkrsquos boundaries

Festival of LanternsThe enchanting atmosphere of Loi Krathong

The weather is cooling down and itrsquos

that time of year again when we all

take to the waterways of Thailand and

give praise to Khongkha the water

Goddess who took care of abundant

rainfall in the past raining season

Donrsquot miss this joyful celebration with

its enchanting atmosphere that brings

one and all in Thailand together

much like Songkran

Thailandrsquos lsquoFestival of Lightsrsquo is celebrated

throughout the kingdom on the night of the

November full moon The end of the rainy

season heralds the coolest months in the

countryrsquos calendar when the river waters are

also supposed to be at their highest

Superstition replaces religion on this night as

thousands flock to the banks of the swollen

rivers and canals to release khratongs floating

tributes to the river spirits and Mother Water ndash

Phra Mae Khongkha In recent years the festival

has been revived in the ancient temples of

Thailandrsquos former capital Sukhothai

Visitors assemble in the Sukhothai Historical

Park with their banana leaf khratongs decorated

with flowers incense sticks and candles to take

part in a ceremony that dates back centuries

Sometimes a coin is added as gift to the spirits

The pretty rafts are then released onto the lake

with a wish

It was once believed that Loi Khratong

was actually created in Sukhothai by Nang

Nopphamas a lady of the court and consort

of the king In fact the celebration was adapted

by Thai Buddhists from a Brahmanical festival

adapted to honour Buddha

The khratong is meant to be a light on the

darkness of the water for Buddha A personrsquos

sins and negative thoughts are also believed to

float away with the colourful little raft Try adding

a lock of your hair for extra luck

Nearly 20 of the Northern provinces will be

showing off a dazzling selection of floats in the

Royal Khratongs Procession as well as holding a

Miss Nopphamat beauty contest

A competition is held for the most beautifully

designed khratong as well as plenty of other

Sukhothai arts and cultural performances

The Light-and-Sound Presentation at Wat

Mahathat explains the history and origins of

Sukhothai and Loi Khratong through dance

music prayer combat displays light effects and

fireworks No Loi Khratong would be complete

without fireworks and thankfully the Thais are

not shy when it comes to blowing things up in

the sky

Tra Kuan pond is the place to be for the floating

of the Royal Khratongs followed by more

firmament-filling pyrotechnics Wat Chana

Songkram is the venue for the Mahachat

sermon Khon Marked Dance and a Thai

classical music performance

Thai Guru decided to travel from Chiang Mai

to Sukhotai for this yearrsquos festivities Although

the heavens decided to open for most of the

celebrations on the final day the rain could not

dampen the celebrations and the spectacle was

jaw dropping

The only thing that was missing due to the rain

was a sky filled with khom loi the sky lanterns

usually released into the firmament in their

hundreds

Although the festivities officially last for the best

part of a week it is the last three days that are

the busiest

Visitors can join in with a range of activities

including fruit carving or just wander around the

historic park listening to live traditional music

watching Thai martial arts or join the parade

of dancers musicians and beauty contestants

all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured

costumes

There are numerous places to stay for the

duration of the festival but it is advisable to

book ahead if you can because this is a very

popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north

from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai Temples

A visit to a temple in Thailand is

unavoidable They are everywhere

We at Thai Guru are well aware that

because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can

quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang

Mai With this in mind (and because

the city is overflowing with hundreds

of them) we have chosen a few of

our favourites we hope are slightly

alternative to the ones on the usual

tourist itinerary

Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to

the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its

latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of

the skills of the local silversmiths Like many

of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was

established several centuries ago The ubosoth

or ordination hall is an intricately designed

silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in

the sunlight

The area around Wua Lai has been the home to

silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past

couple of centuries who are famed throughout

the kingdom for creating detailed embossed

relief patterns on the objects they create

something that is immediately evident and

celebrated at Wat Srisuphan

The larger more traditionally decorated red blue

and gold prayer hall also contains impressive

silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos

life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft

museum

Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the

artisans at work and the temple has its own

silver-working school where apprentices are

trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive

Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved

in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-

robed residents of the temple improve their

linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also

available

Unfortunately women are not allowed to

enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this

is explained on a sign outside the wording of

which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in

the monastic boundary many precious things

incantations amulets and other holy objects

were buried over 500 years ago Entering

inside this area may deteriorated the place or

otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most

of the interior can be appreciated from the

doorway

Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous

for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged

Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai

Due to its being less well advertised than its

neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham

is often a more peaceful temple from which

to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang

Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist

Lent when the place was alive with worshippers

Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once

the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic

giants Following a visit from the Buddha the

giants decided to mend their ways stop eating

their neighbours and convert to Buddhism

For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and

offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the

templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally

constructed towards the end of the 7th century

Although the temple fell into disrepair over the

centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered

a chamber containing a number of Buddha

images The discovery led to the revitalisation of

this mountain top temple

The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are

guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured

sword-wielding warriors The courtyard

overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and

bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of

food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the

road leading to the temple

Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-

west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek

and easily accessible by car or taxi

Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai

was being established the name translates

as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably

because it was used to cast Buddha images for

its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The

entrance to the temple is through a small but

intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos

assembly hall is notable because it is one of the

only viharns of its type constructed solely from

teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a

superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock

astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference

to the king who once used the wooden hall as

his palace The gilded image features mythical

creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured

glass

The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite

from the busy road outside Wooden boxes

contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm

leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a

large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors

Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks

like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a

small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less

imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo

temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru

recommends a quick visit if you are passing

Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous

temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi

Luang

The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the

largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it

was damaged either by an earthquake in the

16th century or cannon fire from the guns

of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese

in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO

funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps

up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga

serpents and a group of five elephants (only the

one without a trunk or ears partially survived

whatever caused the structure to collapse the

others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi

was also once home to one of the most revered

religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald

Buddha Although the original now resides in

Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and

once again looks out over the city from a niche

on the east side of the structure

Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and

now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly

hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance

is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a

great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar

housed in a building at the base of the tree

Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although

one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few

alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed

Mae Hong Son

It is said that Mae Hong Son is the

most authentic and mountainous

province of Thailand For Thai Guru a

good reason to explore this province

side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai

province

Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of

Thailand The northern most part of this

province is at a distance of 924 km from

Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province

in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son

borders Myanmar On the south and east side it

borders Tak and Chiang Mai province

We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast

on the 108 road The scenery is woody and

mountainous so far so good And as we leave

the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek

for wildlife and beautiful landscapes

The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage

is that our average speed drops to less than

15 km hour No worries when you do trips

like these the clock stops and the only thing

on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning

landscapes that unfold before your eyes

The main road is well paved But as you might

understand we regularly go off road

This is the best way to come into contact with

locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo

While we are standing somewhere taking in the

beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a

falcon calling

A short walk through the forrest the sound

stops and we decide to sit down for some

water and well earned rest After a short while I

hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo

There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters

above us a white rumped falcon

Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras

it stays there and even when we start making

noises because we want to film it in flight it

takes itrsquos time

Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of

Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They

cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more

Of course they also have their own cattle And

walking through one of their small villages they

are very friendly and hospitable

It has to be said it is never smart to enter

a community or people with your camera

as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask

the people if they mind if you taking their

photograph or want to film their daily life

In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to

the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean

and offers a nice variety food on the terrace

with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city

where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists

Really nice to stroll down the walking street and

find food or a nice souvenir People are very

friendly as usual

From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae

Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an

average speed of 15 km hour

Halfway we jump out of the car into a river

Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to

keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn

but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around

without it

Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome

us and are gladly willing to allow us to make

photographs and film them

In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early

morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises

For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum

After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark

Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon

So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team

ChinatownBangkok

Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese

people in big cities around the world

Manhattan San Francisco Manilla

Paris and Boston have them and

more keep being officially recognised

in their role as historical and touristic

center every year Even places like

Dubai and Las Vegas have modern

day versions of this phenomenon

As soon as you pass under one of the famous

large red entrance arches you arrive in a

complete different world

A world that is paradise for photographers

A couple of the photographers in the Thai

Guru team decided to spend some time in the

Bangkok version of Chinatown

If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for

some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at

Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim

Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat

SLEEPY NANA dream destination

Relatively unknown and uncrowded

Nan has it all This gem of a province

hides an abundance of cultural and

natural attractions ancient temples

pristine forests rivers mountain

peaks but what strikes you most is

its omnipresent feel of an untroubled

authentic way of life

Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings

you this genuine feel in pictures and footage

For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of

Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant

nature and the nature of its people show

Thailand - as is often said before hordes of

tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas

it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan

managed to escape this proces but will it stay

that way Nan shares most of its border with

neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening

of the border and beyond towards China it is to

be expected that it will ultimately become an

important gateway for trade and tourism

Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town

and the countryside will enchant you and the natural

cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy

for at least a couple of days The town along the banks

of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base

to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night

life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous

temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue

influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The

great surroundings can best be explored by renting a

motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo

Much of the province is devoted to farming

Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still

being practised in areas of the province resulting

in a landscape where forests and fields alternate

Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside

of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature

peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich

natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the

province sees far fewer visitors than popular

neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You

can go white water rafting on the Wa River

along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim

National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay

overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes

Touring Nan

Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern

lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities

of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old

salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via

endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges

and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with

orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers

Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready

to be harvested broke through the green hills

giving a golden hue to the landscape

We encountered friendly villagers who worked

their way through the dry fields - meanwhile

singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to

supplement their meager incomes Despite their

hardship they showed us their heartwarming

hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes

with us

This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi

Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and

sparsely populated that we only passed two

cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos

difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand

nowadays

PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river

The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness

begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over

the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above

the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is

broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices

Then the carved image of a Naga becomes

visible above the water line followed by more

than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted

in red and gold colorshellip

During the year the remote provincial town

of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a

year for the annual spectacle of traditional

Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos

water artery The finals are held over two

days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos

banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite

team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in

Thailand yet relatively unknown

The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long

simple shelters where the massive dragon boats

are housed during the year Just once a year

they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos

most important sporting and social event The

event takes place right after the end of the

rainy season around early November when

water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at

their highest The colorful races are part of the

festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the

last day of Buddhist Lent in October

The narrow boats are made from massive

hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters

in length depending how many paddlers they

are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily

distinguishable by their use of bright colors and

mythical designs in the traditional local style

The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of

each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting

only the good ones to participate in their race

How to get there

Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is

connected by plane and by bus to the rest of

the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan

Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice

each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to

Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to

Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on

the service

Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan

(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8

hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)

The contestants of the races are classified into

three categories mdashlarge medium and small

boats Depending on their length each boat can

accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers

sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the

same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously

against the current to the frantic beating of a

drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern

The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying

their attempt to reach the finish line first and

the paddles churning up the river creates a

spectacular atmosphere

Son

g K

ran

in

Ch

ian

g M

ai

Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of

the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down

in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The

days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing

steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the

hot months of April and May The stifling mid-

day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out

unless necessary The buzz around town about

some festival called Song Kran is starting to

increase an underlying excitement rising

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
  2. Button 4
  3. Button 9
  4. previous
  5. next
Page 29: Thaiguru issue10

Festival of LanternsThe enchanting atmosphere of Loi Krathong

The weather is cooling down and itrsquos

that time of year again when we all

take to the waterways of Thailand and

give praise to Khongkha the water

Goddess who took care of abundant

rainfall in the past raining season

Donrsquot miss this joyful celebration with

its enchanting atmosphere that brings

one and all in Thailand together

much like Songkran

Thailandrsquos lsquoFestival of Lightsrsquo is celebrated

throughout the kingdom on the night of the

November full moon The end of the rainy

season heralds the coolest months in the

countryrsquos calendar when the river waters are

also supposed to be at their highest

Superstition replaces religion on this night as

thousands flock to the banks of the swollen

rivers and canals to release khratongs floating

tributes to the river spirits and Mother Water ndash

Phra Mae Khongkha In recent years the festival

has been revived in the ancient temples of

Thailandrsquos former capital Sukhothai

Visitors assemble in the Sukhothai Historical

Park with their banana leaf khratongs decorated

with flowers incense sticks and candles to take

part in a ceremony that dates back centuries

Sometimes a coin is added as gift to the spirits

The pretty rafts are then released onto the lake

with a wish

It was once believed that Loi Khratong

was actually created in Sukhothai by Nang

Nopphamas a lady of the court and consort

of the king In fact the celebration was adapted

by Thai Buddhists from a Brahmanical festival

adapted to honour Buddha

The khratong is meant to be a light on the

darkness of the water for Buddha A personrsquos

sins and negative thoughts are also believed to

float away with the colourful little raft Try adding

a lock of your hair for extra luck

Nearly 20 of the Northern provinces will be

showing off a dazzling selection of floats in the

Royal Khratongs Procession as well as holding a

Miss Nopphamat beauty contest

A competition is held for the most beautifully

designed khratong as well as plenty of other

Sukhothai arts and cultural performances

The Light-and-Sound Presentation at Wat

Mahathat explains the history and origins of

Sukhothai and Loi Khratong through dance

music prayer combat displays light effects and

fireworks No Loi Khratong would be complete

without fireworks and thankfully the Thais are

not shy when it comes to blowing things up in

the sky

Tra Kuan pond is the place to be for the floating

of the Royal Khratongs followed by more

firmament-filling pyrotechnics Wat Chana

Songkram is the venue for the Mahachat

sermon Khon Marked Dance and a Thai

classical music performance

Thai Guru decided to travel from Chiang Mai

to Sukhotai for this yearrsquos festivities Although

the heavens decided to open for most of the

celebrations on the final day the rain could not

dampen the celebrations and the spectacle was

jaw dropping

The only thing that was missing due to the rain

was a sky filled with khom loi the sky lanterns

usually released into the firmament in their

hundreds

Although the festivities officially last for the best

part of a week it is the last three days that are

the busiest

Visitors can join in with a range of activities

including fruit carving or just wander around the

historic park listening to live traditional music

watching Thai martial arts or join the parade

of dancers musicians and beauty contestants

all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured

costumes

There are numerous places to stay for the

duration of the festival but it is advisable to

book ahead if you can because this is a very

popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north

from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai Temples

A visit to a temple in Thailand is

unavoidable They are everywhere

We at Thai Guru are well aware that

because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can

quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang

Mai With this in mind (and because

the city is overflowing with hundreds

of them) we have chosen a few of

our favourites we hope are slightly

alternative to the ones on the usual

tourist itinerary

Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to

the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its

latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of

the skills of the local silversmiths Like many

of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was

established several centuries ago The ubosoth

or ordination hall is an intricately designed

silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in

the sunlight

The area around Wua Lai has been the home to

silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past

couple of centuries who are famed throughout

the kingdom for creating detailed embossed

relief patterns on the objects they create

something that is immediately evident and

celebrated at Wat Srisuphan

The larger more traditionally decorated red blue

and gold prayer hall also contains impressive

silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos

life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft

museum

Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the

artisans at work and the temple has its own

silver-working school where apprentices are

trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive

Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved

in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-

robed residents of the temple improve their

linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also

available

Unfortunately women are not allowed to

enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this

is explained on a sign outside the wording of

which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in

the monastic boundary many precious things

incantations amulets and other holy objects

were buried over 500 years ago Entering

inside this area may deteriorated the place or

otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most

of the interior can be appreciated from the

doorway

Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous

for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged

Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai

Due to its being less well advertised than its

neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham

is often a more peaceful temple from which

to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang

Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist

Lent when the place was alive with worshippers

Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once

the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic

giants Following a visit from the Buddha the

giants decided to mend their ways stop eating

their neighbours and convert to Buddhism

For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and

offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the

templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally

constructed towards the end of the 7th century

Although the temple fell into disrepair over the

centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered

a chamber containing a number of Buddha

images The discovery led to the revitalisation of

this mountain top temple

The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are

guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured

sword-wielding warriors The courtyard

overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and

bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of

food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the

road leading to the temple

Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-

west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek

and easily accessible by car or taxi

Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai

was being established the name translates

as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably

because it was used to cast Buddha images for

its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The

entrance to the temple is through a small but

intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos

assembly hall is notable because it is one of the

only viharns of its type constructed solely from

teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a

superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock

astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference

to the king who once used the wooden hall as

his palace The gilded image features mythical

creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured

glass

The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite

from the busy road outside Wooden boxes

contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm

leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a

large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors

Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks

like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a

small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less

imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo

temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru

recommends a quick visit if you are passing

Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous

temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi

Luang

The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the

largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it

was damaged either by an earthquake in the

16th century or cannon fire from the guns

of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese

in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO

funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps

up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga

serpents and a group of five elephants (only the

one without a trunk or ears partially survived

whatever caused the structure to collapse the

others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi

was also once home to one of the most revered

religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald

Buddha Although the original now resides in

Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and

once again looks out over the city from a niche

on the east side of the structure

Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and

now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly

hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance

is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a

great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar

housed in a building at the base of the tree

Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although

one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few

alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed

Mae Hong Son

It is said that Mae Hong Son is the

most authentic and mountainous

province of Thailand For Thai Guru a

good reason to explore this province

side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai

province

Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of

Thailand The northern most part of this

province is at a distance of 924 km from

Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province

in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son

borders Myanmar On the south and east side it

borders Tak and Chiang Mai province

We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast

on the 108 road The scenery is woody and

mountainous so far so good And as we leave

the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek

for wildlife and beautiful landscapes

The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage

is that our average speed drops to less than

15 km hour No worries when you do trips

like these the clock stops and the only thing

on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning

landscapes that unfold before your eyes

The main road is well paved But as you might

understand we regularly go off road

This is the best way to come into contact with

locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo

While we are standing somewhere taking in the

beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a

falcon calling

A short walk through the forrest the sound

stops and we decide to sit down for some

water and well earned rest After a short while I

hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo

There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters

above us a white rumped falcon

Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras

it stays there and even when we start making

noises because we want to film it in flight it

takes itrsquos time

Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of

Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They

cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more

Of course they also have their own cattle And

walking through one of their small villages they

are very friendly and hospitable

It has to be said it is never smart to enter

a community or people with your camera

as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask

the people if they mind if you taking their

photograph or want to film their daily life

In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to

the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean

and offers a nice variety food on the terrace

with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city

where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists

Really nice to stroll down the walking street and

find food or a nice souvenir People are very

friendly as usual

From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae

Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an

average speed of 15 km hour

Halfway we jump out of the car into a river

Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to

keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn

but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around

without it

Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome

us and are gladly willing to allow us to make

photographs and film them

In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early

morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises

For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum

After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark

Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon

So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team

ChinatownBangkok

Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese

people in big cities around the world

Manhattan San Francisco Manilla

Paris and Boston have them and

more keep being officially recognised

in their role as historical and touristic

center every year Even places like

Dubai and Las Vegas have modern

day versions of this phenomenon

As soon as you pass under one of the famous

large red entrance arches you arrive in a

complete different world

A world that is paradise for photographers

A couple of the photographers in the Thai

Guru team decided to spend some time in the

Bangkok version of Chinatown

If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for

some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at

Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim

Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat

SLEEPY NANA dream destination

Relatively unknown and uncrowded

Nan has it all This gem of a province

hides an abundance of cultural and

natural attractions ancient temples

pristine forests rivers mountain

peaks but what strikes you most is

its omnipresent feel of an untroubled

authentic way of life

Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings

you this genuine feel in pictures and footage

For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of

Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant

nature and the nature of its people show

Thailand - as is often said before hordes of

tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas

it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan

managed to escape this proces but will it stay

that way Nan shares most of its border with

neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening

of the border and beyond towards China it is to

be expected that it will ultimately become an

important gateway for trade and tourism

Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town

and the countryside will enchant you and the natural

cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy

for at least a couple of days The town along the banks

of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base

to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night

life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous

temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue

influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The

great surroundings can best be explored by renting a

motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo

Much of the province is devoted to farming

Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still

being practised in areas of the province resulting

in a landscape where forests and fields alternate

Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside

of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature

peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich

natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the

province sees far fewer visitors than popular

neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You

can go white water rafting on the Wa River

along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim

National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay

overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes

Touring Nan

Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern

lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities

of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old

salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via

endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges

and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with

orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers

Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready

to be harvested broke through the green hills

giving a golden hue to the landscape

We encountered friendly villagers who worked

their way through the dry fields - meanwhile

singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to

supplement their meager incomes Despite their

hardship they showed us their heartwarming

hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes

with us

This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi

Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and

sparsely populated that we only passed two

cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos

difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand

nowadays

PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river

The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness

begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over

the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above

the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is

broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices

Then the carved image of a Naga becomes

visible above the water line followed by more

than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted

in red and gold colorshellip

During the year the remote provincial town

of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a

year for the annual spectacle of traditional

Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos

water artery The finals are held over two

days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos

banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite

team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in

Thailand yet relatively unknown

The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long

simple shelters where the massive dragon boats

are housed during the year Just once a year

they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos

most important sporting and social event The

event takes place right after the end of the

rainy season around early November when

water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at

their highest The colorful races are part of the

festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the

last day of Buddhist Lent in October

The narrow boats are made from massive

hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters

in length depending how many paddlers they

are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily

distinguishable by their use of bright colors and

mythical designs in the traditional local style

The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of

each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting

only the good ones to participate in their race

How to get there

Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is

connected by plane and by bus to the rest of

the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan

Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice

each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to

Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to

Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on

the service

Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan

(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8

hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)

The contestants of the races are classified into

three categories mdashlarge medium and small

boats Depending on their length each boat can

accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers

sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the

same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously

against the current to the frantic beating of a

drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern

The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying

their attempt to reach the finish line first and

the paddles churning up the river creates a

spectacular atmosphere

Son

g K

ran

in

Ch

ian

g M

ai

Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of

the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down

in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The

days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing

steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the

hot months of April and May The stifling mid-

day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out

unless necessary The buzz around town about

some festival called Song Kran is starting to

increase an underlying excitement rising

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
  2. Button 4
  3. Button 9
  4. previous
  5. next
Page 30: Thaiguru issue10

The weather is cooling down and itrsquos

that time of year again when we all

take to the waterways of Thailand and

give praise to Khongkha the water

Goddess who took care of abundant

rainfall in the past raining season

Donrsquot miss this joyful celebration with

its enchanting atmosphere that brings

one and all in Thailand together

much like Songkran

Thailandrsquos lsquoFestival of Lightsrsquo is celebrated

throughout the kingdom on the night of the

November full moon The end of the rainy

season heralds the coolest months in the

countryrsquos calendar when the river waters are

also supposed to be at their highest

Superstition replaces religion on this night as

thousands flock to the banks of the swollen

rivers and canals to release khratongs floating

tributes to the river spirits and Mother Water ndash

Phra Mae Khongkha In recent years the festival

has been revived in the ancient temples of

Thailandrsquos former capital Sukhothai

Visitors assemble in the Sukhothai Historical

Park with their banana leaf khratongs decorated

with flowers incense sticks and candles to take

part in a ceremony that dates back centuries

Sometimes a coin is added as gift to the spirits

The pretty rafts are then released onto the lake

with a wish

It was once believed that Loi Khratong

was actually created in Sukhothai by Nang

Nopphamas a lady of the court and consort

of the king In fact the celebration was adapted

by Thai Buddhists from a Brahmanical festival

adapted to honour Buddha

The khratong is meant to be a light on the

darkness of the water for Buddha A personrsquos

sins and negative thoughts are also believed to

float away with the colourful little raft Try adding

a lock of your hair for extra luck

Nearly 20 of the Northern provinces will be

showing off a dazzling selection of floats in the

Royal Khratongs Procession as well as holding a

Miss Nopphamat beauty contest

A competition is held for the most beautifully

designed khratong as well as plenty of other

Sukhothai arts and cultural performances

The Light-and-Sound Presentation at Wat

Mahathat explains the history and origins of

Sukhothai and Loi Khratong through dance

music prayer combat displays light effects and

fireworks No Loi Khratong would be complete

without fireworks and thankfully the Thais are

not shy when it comes to blowing things up in

the sky

Tra Kuan pond is the place to be for the floating

of the Royal Khratongs followed by more

firmament-filling pyrotechnics Wat Chana

Songkram is the venue for the Mahachat

sermon Khon Marked Dance and a Thai

classical music performance

Thai Guru decided to travel from Chiang Mai

to Sukhotai for this yearrsquos festivities Although

the heavens decided to open for most of the

celebrations on the final day the rain could not

dampen the celebrations and the spectacle was

jaw dropping

The only thing that was missing due to the rain

was a sky filled with khom loi the sky lanterns

usually released into the firmament in their

hundreds

Although the festivities officially last for the best

part of a week it is the last three days that are

the busiest

Visitors can join in with a range of activities

including fruit carving or just wander around the

historic park listening to live traditional music

watching Thai martial arts or join the parade

of dancers musicians and beauty contestants

all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured

costumes

There are numerous places to stay for the

duration of the festival but it is advisable to

book ahead if you can because this is a very

popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north

from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai Temples

A visit to a temple in Thailand is

unavoidable They are everywhere

We at Thai Guru are well aware that

because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can

quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang

Mai With this in mind (and because

the city is overflowing with hundreds

of them) we have chosen a few of

our favourites we hope are slightly

alternative to the ones on the usual

tourist itinerary

Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to

the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its

latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of

the skills of the local silversmiths Like many

of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was

established several centuries ago The ubosoth

or ordination hall is an intricately designed

silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in

the sunlight

The area around Wua Lai has been the home to

silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past

couple of centuries who are famed throughout

the kingdom for creating detailed embossed

relief patterns on the objects they create

something that is immediately evident and

celebrated at Wat Srisuphan

The larger more traditionally decorated red blue

and gold prayer hall also contains impressive

silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos

life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft

museum

Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the

artisans at work and the temple has its own

silver-working school where apprentices are

trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive

Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved

in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-

robed residents of the temple improve their

linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also

available

Unfortunately women are not allowed to

enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this

is explained on a sign outside the wording of

which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in

the monastic boundary many precious things

incantations amulets and other holy objects

were buried over 500 years ago Entering

inside this area may deteriorated the place or

otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most

of the interior can be appreciated from the

doorway

Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous

for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged

Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai

Due to its being less well advertised than its

neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham

is often a more peaceful temple from which

to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang

Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist

Lent when the place was alive with worshippers

Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once

the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic

giants Following a visit from the Buddha the

giants decided to mend their ways stop eating

their neighbours and convert to Buddhism

For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and

offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the

templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally

constructed towards the end of the 7th century

Although the temple fell into disrepair over the

centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered

a chamber containing a number of Buddha

images The discovery led to the revitalisation of

this mountain top temple

The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are

guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured

sword-wielding warriors The courtyard

overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and

bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of

food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the

road leading to the temple

Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-

west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek

and easily accessible by car or taxi

Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai

was being established the name translates

as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably

because it was used to cast Buddha images for

its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The

entrance to the temple is through a small but

intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos

assembly hall is notable because it is one of the

only viharns of its type constructed solely from

teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a

superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock

astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference

to the king who once used the wooden hall as

his palace The gilded image features mythical

creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured

glass

The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite

from the busy road outside Wooden boxes

contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm

leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a

large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors

Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks

like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a

small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less

imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo

temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru

recommends a quick visit if you are passing

Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous

temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi

Luang

The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the

largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it

was damaged either by an earthquake in the

16th century or cannon fire from the guns

of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese

in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO

funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps

up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga

serpents and a group of five elephants (only the

one without a trunk or ears partially survived

whatever caused the structure to collapse the

others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi

was also once home to one of the most revered

religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald

Buddha Although the original now resides in

Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and

once again looks out over the city from a niche

on the east side of the structure

Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and

now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly

hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance

is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a

great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar

housed in a building at the base of the tree

Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although

one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few

alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed

Mae Hong Son

It is said that Mae Hong Son is the

most authentic and mountainous

province of Thailand For Thai Guru a

good reason to explore this province

side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai

province

Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of

Thailand The northern most part of this

province is at a distance of 924 km from

Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province

in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son

borders Myanmar On the south and east side it

borders Tak and Chiang Mai province

We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast

on the 108 road The scenery is woody and

mountainous so far so good And as we leave

the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek

for wildlife and beautiful landscapes

The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage

is that our average speed drops to less than

15 km hour No worries when you do trips

like these the clock stops and the only thing

on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning

landscapes that unfold before your eyes

The main road is well paved But as you might

understand we regularly go off road

This is the best way to come into contact with

locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo

While we are standing somewhere taking in the

beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a

falcon calling

A short walk through the forrest the sound

stops and we decide to sit down for some

water and well earned rest After a short while I

hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo

There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters

above us a white rumped falcon

Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras

it stays there and even when we start making

noises because we want to film it in flight it

takes itrsquos time

Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of

Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They

cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more

Of course they also have their own cattle And

walking through one of their small villages they

are very friendly and hospitable

It has to be said it is never smart to enter

a community or people with your camera

as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask

the people if they mind if you taking their

photograph or want to film their daily life

In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to

the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean

and offers a nice variety food on the terrace

with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city

where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists

Really nice to stroll down the walking street and

find food or a nice souvenir People are very

friendly as usual

From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae

Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an

average speed of 15 km hour

Halfway we jump out of the car into a river

Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to

keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn

but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around

without it

Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome

us and are gladly willing to allow us to make

photographs and film them

In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early

morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises

For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum

After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark

Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon

So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team

ChinatownBangkok

Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese

people in big cities around the world

Manhattan San Francisco Manilla

Paris and Boston have them and

more keep being officially recognised

in their role as historical and touristic

center every year Even places like

Dubai and Las Vegas have modern

day versions of this phenomenon

As soon as you pass under one of the famous

large red entrance arches you arrive in a

complete different world

A world that is paradise for photographers

A couple of the photographers in the Thai

Guru team decided to spend some time in the

Bangkok version of Chinatown

If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for

some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at

Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim

Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat

SLEEPY NANA dream destination

Relatively unknown and uncrowded

Nan has it all This gem of a province

hides an abundance of cultural and

natural attractions ancient temples

pristine forests rivers mountain

peaks but what strikes you most is

its omnipresent feel of an untroubled

authentic way of life

Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings

you this genuine feel in pictures and footage

For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of

Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant

nature and the nature of its people show

Thailand - as is often said before hordes of

tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas

it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan

managed to escape this proces but will it stay

that way Nan shares most of its border with

neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening

of the border and beyond towards China it is to

be expected that it will ultimately become an

important gateway for trade and tourism

Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town

and the countryside will enchant you and the natural

cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy

for at least a couple of days The town along the banks

of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base

to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night

life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous

temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue

influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The

great surroundings can best be explored by renting a

motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo

Much of the province is devoted to farming

Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still

being practised in areas of the province resulting

in a landscape where forests and fields alternate

Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside

of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature

peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich

natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the

province sees far fewer visitors than popular

neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You

can go white water rafting on the Wa River

along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim

National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay

overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes

Touring Nan

Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern

lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities

of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old

salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via

endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges

and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with

orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers

Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready

to be harvested broke through the green hills

giving a golden hue to the landscape

We encountered friendly villagers who worked

their way through the dry fields - meanwhile

singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to

supplement their meager incomes Despite their

hardship they showed us their heartwarming

hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes

with us

This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi

Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and

sparsely populated that we only passed two

cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos

difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand

nowadays

PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river

The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness

begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over

the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above

the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is

broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices

Then the carved image of a Naga becomes

visible above the water line followed by more

than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted

in red and gold colorshellip

During the year the remote provincial town

of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a

year for the annual spectacle of traditional

Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos

water artery The finals are held over two

days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos

banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite

team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in

Thailand yet relatively unknown

The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long

simple shelters where the massive dragon boats

are housed during the year Just once a year

they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos

most important sporting and social event The

event takes place right after the end of the

rainy season around early November when

water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at

their highest The colorful races are part of the

festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the

last day of Buddhist Lent in October

The narrow boats are made from massive

hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters

in length depending how many paddlers they

are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily

distinguishable by their use of bright colors and

mythical designs in the traditional local style

The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of

each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting

only the good ones to participate in their race

How to get there

Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is

connected by plane and by bus to the rest of

the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan

Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice

each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to

Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to

Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on

the service

Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan

(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8

hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)

The contestants of the races are classified into

three categories mdashlarge medium and small

boats Depending on their length each boat can

accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers

sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the

same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously

against the current to the frantic beating of a

drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern

The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying

their attempt to reach the finish line first and

the paddles churning up the river creates a

spectacular atmosphere

Son

g K

ran

in

Ch

ian

g M

ai

Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of

the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down

in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The

days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing

steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the

hot months of April and May The stifling mid-

day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out

unless necessary The buzz around town about

some festival called Song Kran is starting to

increase an underlying excitement rising

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
  2. Button 4
  3. Button 9
  4. previous
  5. next
Page 31: Thaiguru issue10

Thailandrsquos lsquoFestival of Lightsrsquo is celebrated

throughout the kingdom on the night of the

November full moon The end of the rainy

season heralds the coolest months in the

countryrsquos calendar when the river waters are

also supposed to be at their highest

Superstition replaces religion on this night as

thousands flock to the banks of the swollen

rivers and canals to release khratongs floating

tributes to the river spirits and Mother Water ndash

Phra Mae Khongkha In recent years the festival

has been revived in the ancient temples of

Thailandrsquos former capital Sukhothai

Visitors assemble in the Sukhothai Historical

Park with their banana leaf khratongs decorated

with flowers incense sticks and candles to take

part in a ceremony that dates back centuries

Sometimes a coin is added as gift to the spirits

The pretty rafts are then released onto the lake

with a wish

It was once believed that Loi Khratong

was actually created in Sukhothai by Nang

Nopphamas a lady of the court and consort

of the king In fact the celebration was adapted

by Thai Buddhists from a Brahmanical festival

adapted to honour Buddha

The khratong is meant to be a light on the

darkness of the water for Buddha A personrsquos

sins and negative thoughts are also believed to

float away with the colourful little raft Try adding

a lock of your hair for extra luck

Nearly 20 of the Northern provinces will be

showing off a dazzling selection of floats in the

Royal Khratongs Procession as well as holding a

Miss Nopphamat beauty contest

A competition is held for the most beautifully

designed khratong as well as plenty of other

Sukhothai arts and cultural performances

The Light-and-Sound Presentation at Wat

Mahathat explains the history and origins of

Sukhothai and Loi Khratong through dance

music prayer combat displays light effects and

fireworks No Loi Khratong would be complete

without fireworks and thankfully the Thais are

not shy when it comes to blowing things up in

the sky

Tra Kuan pond is the place to be for the floating

of the Royal Khratongs followed by more

firmament-filling pyrotechnics Wat Chana

Songkram is the venue for the Mahachat

sermon Khon Marked Dance and a Thai

classical music performance

Thai Guru decided to travel from Chiang Mai

to Sukhotai for this yearrsquos festivities Although

the heavens decided to open for most of the

celebrations on the final day the rain could not

dampen the celebrations and the spectacle was

jaw dropping

The only thing that was missing due to the rain

was a sky filled with khom loi the sky lanterns

usually released into the firmament in their

hundreds

Although the festivities officially last for the best

part of a week it is the last three days that are

the busiest

Visitors can join in with a range of activities

including fruit carving or just wander around the

historic park listening to live traditional music

watching Thai martial arts or join the parade

of dancers musicians and beauty contestants

all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured

costumes

There are numerous places to stay for the

duration of the festival but it is advisable to

book ahead if you can because this is a very

popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north

from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai Temples

A visit to a temple in Thailand is

unavoidable They are everywhere

We at Thai Guru are well aware that

because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can

quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang

Mai With this in mind (and because

the city is overflowing with hundreds

of them) we have chosen a few of

our favourites we hope are slightly

alternative to the ones on the usual

tourist itinerary

Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to

the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its

latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of

the skills of the local silversmiths Like many

of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was

established several centuries ago The ubosoth

or ordination hall is an intricately designed

silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in

the sunlight

The area around Wua Lai has been the home to

silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past

couple of centuries who are famed throughout

the kingdom for creating detailed embossed

relief patterns on the objects they create

something that is immediately evident and

celebrated at Wat Srisuphan

The larger more traditionally decorated red blue

and gold prayer hall also contains impressive

silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos

life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft

museum

Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the

artisans at work and the temple has its own

silver-working school where apprentices are

trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive

Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved

in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-

robed residents of the temple improve their

linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also

available

Unfortunately women are not allowed to

enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this

is explained on a sign outside the wording of

which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in

the monastic boundary many precious things

incantations amulets and other holy objects

were buried over 500 years ago Entering

inside this area may deteriorated the place or

otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most

of the interior can be appreciated from the

doorway

Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous

for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged

Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai

Due to its being less well advertised than its

neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham

is often a more peaceful temple from which

to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang

Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist

Lent when the place was alive with worshippers

Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once

the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic

giants Following a visit from the Buddha the

giants decided to mend their ways stop eating

their neighbours and convert to Buddhism

For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and

offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the

templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally

constructed towards the end of the 7th century

Although the temple fell into disrepair over the

centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered

a chamber containing a number of Buddha

images The discovery led to the revitalisation of

this mountain top temple

The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are

guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured

sword-wielding warriors The courtyard

overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and

bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of

food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the

road leading to the temple

Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-

west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek

and easily accessible by car or taxi

Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai

was being established the name translates

as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably

because it was used to cast Buddha images for

its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The

entrance to the temple is through a small but

intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos

assembly hall is notable because it is one of the

only viharns of its type constructed solely from

teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a

superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock

astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference

to the king who once used the wooden hall as

his palace The gilded image features mythical

creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured

glass

The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite

from the busy road outside Wooden boxes

contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm

leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a

large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors

Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks

like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a

small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less

imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo

temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru

recommends a quick visit if you are passing

Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous

temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi

Luang

The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the

largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it

was damaged either by an earthquake in the

16th century or cannon fire from the guns

of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese

in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO

funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps

up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga

serpents and a group of five elephants (only the

one without a trunk or ears partially survived

whatever caused the structure to collapse the

others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi

was also once home to one of the most revered

religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald

Buddha Although the original now resides in

Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and

once again looks out over the city from a niche

on the east side of the structure

Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and

now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly

hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance

is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a

great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar

housed in a building at the base of the tree

Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although

one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few

alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed

Mae Hong Son

It is said that Mae Hong Son is the

most authentic and mountainous

province of Thailand For Thai Guru a

good reason to explore this province

side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai

province

Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of

Thailand The northern most part of this

province is at a distance of 924 km from

Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province

in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son

borders Myanmar On the south and east side it

borders Tak and Chiang Mai province

We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast

on the 108 road The scenery is woody and

mountainous so far so good And as we leave

the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek

for wildlife and beautiful landscapes

The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage

is that our average speed drops to less than

15 km hour No worries when you do trips

like these the clock stops and the only thing

on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning

landscapes that unfold before your eyes

The main road is well paved But as you might

understand we regularly go off road

This is the best way to come into contact with

locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo

While we are standing somewhere taking in the

beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a

falcon calling

A short walk through the forrest the sound

stops and we decide to sit down for some

water and well earned rest After a short while I

hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo

There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters

above us a white rumped falcon

Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras

it stays there and even when we start making

noises because we want to film it in flight it

takes itrsquos time

Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of

Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They

cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more

Of course they also have their own cattle And

walking through one of their small villages they

are very friendly and hospitable

It has to be said it is never smart to enter

a community or people with your camera

as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask

the people if they mind if you taking their

photograph or want to film their daily life

In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to

the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean

and offers a nice variety food on the terrace

with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city

where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists

Really nice to stroll down the walking street and

find food or a nice souvenir People are very

friendly as usual

From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae

Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an

average speed of 15 km hour

Halfway we jump out of the car into a river

Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to

keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn

but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around

without it

Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome

us and are gladly willing to allow us to make

photographs and film them

In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early

morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises

For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum

After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark

Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon

So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team

ChinatownBangkok

Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese

people in big cities around the world

Manhattan San Francisco Manilla

Paris and Boston have them and

more keep being officially recognised

in their role as historical and touristic

center every year Even places like

Dubai and Las Vegas have modern

day versions of this phenomenon

As soon as you pass under one of the famous

large red entrance arches you arrive in a

complete different world

A world that is paradise for photographers

A couple of the photographers in the Thai

Guru team decided to spend some time in the

Bangkok version of Chinatown

If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for

some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at

Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim

Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat

SLEEPY NANA dream destination

Relatively unknown and uncrowded

Nan has it all This gem of a province

hides an abundance of cultural and

natural attractions ancient temples

pristine forests rivers mountain

peaks but what strikes you most is

its omnipresent feel of an untroubled

authentic way of life

Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings

you this genuine feel in pictures and footage

For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of

Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant

nature and the nature of its people show

Thailand - as is often said before hordes of

tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas

it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan

managed to escape this proces but will it stay

that way Nan shares most of its border with

neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening

of the border and beyond towards China it is to

be expected that it will ultimately become an

important gateway for trade and tourism

Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town

and the countryside will enchant you and the natural

cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy

for at least a couple of days The town along the banks

of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base

to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night

life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous

temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue

influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The

great surroundings can best be explored by renting a

motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo

Much of the province is devoted to farming

Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still

being practised in areas of the province resulting

in a landscape where forests and fields alternate

Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside

of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature

peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich

natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the

province sees far fewer visitors than popular

neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You

can go white water rafting on the Wa River

along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim

National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay

overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes

Touring Nan

Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern

lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities

of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old

salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via

endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges

and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with

orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers

Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready

to be harvested broke through the green hills

giving a golden hue to the landscape

We encountered friendly villagers who worked

their way through the dry fields - meanwhile

singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to

supplement their meager incomes Despite their

hardship they showed us their heartwarming

hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes

with us

This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi

Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and

sparsely populated that we only passed two

cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos

difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand

nowadays

PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river

The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness

begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over

the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above

the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is

broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices

Then the carved image of a Naga becomes

visible above the water line followed by more

than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted

in red and gold colorshellip

During the year the remote provincial town

of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a

year for the annual spectacle of traditional

Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos

water artery The finals are held over two

days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos

banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite

team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in

Thailand yet relatively unknown

The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long

simple shelters where the massive dragon boats

are housed during the year Just once a year

they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos

most important sporting and social event The

event takes place right after the end of the

rainy season around early November when

water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at

their highest The colorful races are part of the

festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the

last day of Buddhist Lent in October

The narrow boats are made from massive

hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters

in length depending how many paddlers they

are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily

distinguishable by their use of bright colors and

mythical designs in the traditional local style

The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of

each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting

only the good ones to participate in their race

How to get there

Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is

connected by plane and by bus to the rest of

the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan

Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice

each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to

Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to

Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on

the service

Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan

(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8

hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)

The contestants of the races are classified into

three categories mdashlarge medium and small

boats Depending on their length each boat can

accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers

sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the

same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously

against the current to the frantic beating of a

drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern

The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying

their attempt to reach the finish line first and

the paddles churning up the river creates a

spectacular atmosphere

Son

g K

ran

in

Ch

ian

g M

ai

Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of

the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down

in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The

days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing

steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the

hot months of April and May The stifling mid-

day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out

unless necessary The buzz around town about

some festival called Song Kran is starting to

increase an underlying excitement rising

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
  2. Button 4
  3. Button 9
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  5. next
Page 32: Thaiguru issue10

It was once believed that Loi Khratong

was actually created in Sukhothai by Nang

Nopphamas a lady of the court and consort

of the king In fact the celebration was adapted

by Thai Buddhists from a Brahmanical festival

adapted to honour Buddha

The khratong is meant to be a light on the

darkness of the water for Buddha A personrsquos

sins and negative thoughts are also believed to

float away with the colourful little raft Try adding

a lock of your hair for extra luck

Nearly 20 of the Northern provinces will be

showing off a dazzling selection of floats in the

Royal Khratongs Procession as well as holding a

Miss Nopphamat beauty contest

A competition is held for the most beautifully

designed khratong as well as plenty of other

Sukhothai arts and cultural performances

The Light-and-Sound Presentation at Wat

Mahathat explains the history and origins of

Sukhothai and Loi Khratong through dance

music prayer combat displays light effects and

fireworks No Loi Khratong would be complete

without fireworks and thankfully the Thais are

not shy when it comes to blowing things up in

the sky

Tra Kuan pond is the place to be for the floating

of the Royal Khratongs followed by more

firmament-filling pyrotechnics Wat Chana

Songkram is the venue for the Mahachat

sermon Khon Marked Dance and a Thai

classical music performance

Thai Guru decided to travel from Chiang Mai

to Sukhotai for this yearrsquos festivities Although

the heavens decided to open for most of the

celebrations on the final day the rain could not

dampen the celebrations and the spectacle was

jaw dropping

The only thing that was missing due to the rain

was a sky filled with khom loi the sky lanterns

usually released into the firmament in their

hundreds

Although the festivities officially last for the best

part of a week it is the last three days that are

the busiest

Visitors can join in with a range of activities

including fruit carving or just wander around the

historic park listening to live traditional music

watching Thai martial arts or join the parade

of dancers musicians and beauty contestants

all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured

costumes

There are numerous places to stay for the

duration of the festival but it is advisable to

book ahead if you can because this is a very

popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north

from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai Temples

A visit to a temple in Thailand is

unavoidable They are everywhere

We at Thai Guru are well aware that

because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can

quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang

Mai With this in mind (and because

the city is overflowing with hundreds

of them) we have chosen a few of

our favourites we hope are slightly

alternative to the ones on the usual

tourist itinerary

Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to

the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its

latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of

the skills of the local silversmiths Like many

of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was

established several centuries ago The ubosoth

or ordination hall is an intricately designed

silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in

the sunlight

The area around Wua Lai has been the home to

silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past

couple of centuries who are famed throughout

the kingdom for creating detailed embossed

relief patterns on the objects they create

something that is immediately evident and

celebrated at Wat Srisuphan

The larger more traditionally decorated red blue

and gold prayer hall also contains impressive

silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos

life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft

museum

Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the

artisans at work and the temple has its own

silver-working school where apprentices are

trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive

Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved

in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-

robed residents of the temple improve their

linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also

available

Unfortunately women are not allowed to

enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this

is explained on a sign outside the wording of

which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in

the monastic boundary many precious things

incantations amulets and other holy objects

were buried over 500 years ago Entering

inside this area may deteriorated the place or

otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most

of the interior can be appreciated from the

doorway

Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous

for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged

Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai

Due to its being less well advertised than its

neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham

is often a more peaceful temple from which

to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang

Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist

Lent when the place was alive with worshippers

Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once

the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic

giants Following a visit from the Buddha the

giants decided to mend their ways stop eating

their neighbours and convert to Buddhism

For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and

offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the

templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally

constructed towards the end of the 7th century

Although the temple fell into disrepair over the

centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered

a chamber containing a number of Buddha

images The discovery led to the revitalisation of

this mountain top temple

The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are

guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured

sword-wielding warriors The courtyard

overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and

bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of

food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the

road leading to the temple

Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-

west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek

and easily accessible by car or taxi

Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai

was being established the name translates

as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably

because it was used to cast Buddha images for

its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The

entrance to the temple is through a small but

intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos

assembly hall is notable because it is one of the

only viharns of its type constructed solely from

teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a

superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock

astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference

to the king who once used the wooden hall as

his palace The gilded image features mythical

creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured

glass

The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite

from the busy road outside Wooden boxes

contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm

leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a

large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors

Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks

like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a

small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less

imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo

temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru

recommends a quick visit if you are passing

Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous

temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi

Luang

The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the

largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it

was damaged either by an earthquake in the

16th century or cannon fire from the guns

of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese

in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO

funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps

up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga

serpents and a group of five elephants (only the

one without a trunk or ears partially survived

whatever caused the structure to collapse the

others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi

was also once home to one of the most revered

religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald

Buddha Although the original now resides in

Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and

once again looks out over the city from a niche

on the east side of the structure

Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and

now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly

hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance

is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a

great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar

housed in a building at the base of the tree

Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although

one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few

alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed

Mae Hong Son

It is said that Mae Hong Son is the

most authentic and mountainous

province of Thailand For Thai Guru a

good reason to explore this province

side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai

province

Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of

Thailand The northern most part of this

province is at a distance of 924 km from

Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province

in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son

borders Myanmar On the south and east side it

borders Tak and Chiang Mai province

We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast

on the 108 road The scenery is woody and

mountainous so far so good And as we leave

the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek

for wildlife and beautiful landscapes

The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage

is that our average speed drops to less than

15 km hour No worries when you do trips

like these the clock stops and the only thing

on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning

landscapes that unfold before your eyes

The main road is well paved But as you might

understand we regularly go off road

This is the best way to come into contact with

locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo

While we are standing somewhere taking in the

beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a

falcon calling

A short walk through the forrest the sound

stops and we decide to sit down for some

water and well earned rest After a short while I

hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo

There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters

above us a white rumped falcon

Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras

it stays there and even when we start making

noises because we want to film it in flight it

takes itrsquos time

Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of

Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They

cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more

Of course they also have their own cattle And

walking through one of their small villages they

are very friendly and hospitable

It has to be said it is never smart to enter

a community or people with your camera

as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask

the people if they mind if you taking their

photograph or want to film their daily life

In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to

the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean

and offers a nice variety food on the terrace

with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city

where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists

Really nice to stroll down the walking street and

find food or a nice souvenir People are very

friendly as usual

From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae

Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an

average speed of 15 km hour

Halfway we jump out of the car into a river

Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to

keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn

but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around

without it

Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome

us and are gladly willing to allow us to make

photographs and film them

In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early

morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises

For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum

After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark

Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon

So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team

ChinatownBangkok

Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese

people in big cities around the world

Manhattan San Francisco Manilla

Paris and Boston have them and

more keep being officially recognised

in their role as historical and touristic

center every year Even places like

Dubai and Las Vegas have modern

day versions of this phenomenon

As soon as you pass under one of the famous

large red entrance arches you arrive in a

complete different world

A world that is paradise for photographers

A couple of the photographers in the Thai

Guru team decided to spend some time in the

Bangkok version of Chinatown

If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for

some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at

Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim

Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat

SLEEPY NANA dream destination

Relatively unknown and uncrowded

Nan has it all This gem of a province

hides an abundance of cultural and

natural attractions ancient temples

pristine forests rivers mountain

peaks but what strikes you most is

its omnipresent feel of an untroubled

authentic way of life

Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings

you this genuine feel in pictures and footage

For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of

Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant

nature and the nature of its people show

Thailand - as is often said before hordes of

tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas

it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan

managed to escape this proces but will it stay

that way Nan shares most of its border with

neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening

of the border and beyond towards China it is to

be expected that it will ultimately become an

important gateway for trade and tourism

Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town

and the countryside will enchant you and the natural

cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy

for at least a couple of days The town along the banks

of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base

to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night

life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous

temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue

influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The

great surroundings can best be explored by renting a

motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo

Much of the province is devoted to farming

Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still

being practised in areas of the province resulting

in a landscape where forests and fields alternate

Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside

of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature

peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich

natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the

province sees far fewer visitors than popular

neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You

can go white water rafting on the Wa River

along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim

National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay

overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes

Touring Nan

Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern

lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities

of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old

salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via

endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges

and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with

orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers

Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready

to be harvested broke through the green hills

giving a golden hue to the landscape

We encountered friendly villagers who worked

their way through the dry fields - meanwhile

singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to

supplement their meager incomes Despite their

hardship they showed us their heartwarming

hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes

with us

This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi

Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and

sparsely populated that we only passed two

cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos

difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand

nowadays

PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river

The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness

begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over

the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above

the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is

broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices

Then the carved image of a Naga becomes

visible above the water line followed by more

than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted

in red and gold colorshellip

During the year the remote provincial town

of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a

year for the annual spectacle of traditional

Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos

water artery The finals are held over two

days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos

banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite

team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in

Thailand yet relatively unknown

The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long

simple shelters where the massive dragon boats

are housed during the year Just once a year

they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos

most important sporting and social event The

event takes place right after the end of the

rainy season around early November when

water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at

their highest The colorful races are part of the

festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the

last day of Buddhist Lent in October

The narrow boats are made from massive

hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters

in length depending how many paddlers they

are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily

distinguishable by their use of bright colors and

mythical designs in the traditional local style

The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of

each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting

only the good ones to participate in their race

How to get there

Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is

connected by plane and by bus to the rest of

the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan

Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice

each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to

Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to

Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on

the service

Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan

(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8

hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)

The contestants of the races are classified into

three categories mdashlarge medium and small

boats Depending on their length each boat can

accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers

sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the

same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously

against the current to the frantic beating of a

drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern

The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying

their attempt to reach the finish line first and

the paddles churning up the river creates a

spectacular atmosphere

Son

g K

ran

in

Ch

ian

g M

ai

Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of

the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down

in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The

days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing

steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the

hot months of April and May The stifling mid-

day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out

unless necessary The buzz around town about

some festival called Song Kran is starting to

increase an underlying excitement rising

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
  2. Button 4
  3. Button 9
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  5. next
Page 33: Thaiguru issue10

Nearly 20 of the Northern provinces will be

showing off a dazzling selection of floats in the

Royal Khratongs Procession as well as holding a

Miss Nopphamat beauty contest

A competition is held for the most beautifully

designed khratong as well as plenty of other

Sukhothai arts and cultural performances

The Light-and-Sound Presentation at Wat

Mahathat explains the history and origins of

Sukhothai and Loi Khratong through dance

music prayer combat displays light effects and

fireworks No Loi Khratong would be complete

without fireworks and thankfully the Thais are

not shy when it comes to blowing things up in

the sky

Tra Kuan pond is the place to be for the floating

of the Royal Khratongs followed by more

firmament-filling pyrotechnics Wat Chana

Songkram is the venue for the Mahachat

sermon Khon Marked Dance and a Thai

classical music performance

Thai Guru decided to travel from Chiang Mai

to Sukhotai for this yearrsquos festivities Although

the heavens decided to open for most of the

celebrations on the final day the rain could not

dampen the celebrations and the spectacle was

jaw dropping

The only thing that was missing due to the rain

was a sky filled with khom loi the sky lanterns

usually released into the firmament in their

hundreds

Although the festivities officially last for the best

part of a week it is the last three days that are

the busiest

Visitors can join in with a range of activities

including fruit carving or just wander around the

historic park listening to live traditional music

watching Thai martial arts or join the parade

of dancers musicians and beauty contestants

all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured

costumes

There are numerous places to stay for the

duration of the festival but it is advisable to

book ahead if you can because this is a very

popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north

from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai Temples

A visit to a temple in Thailand is

unavoidable They are everywhere

We at Thai Guru are well aware that

because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can

quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang

Mai With this in mind (and because

the city is overflowing with hundreds

of them) we have chosen a few of

our favourites we hope are slightly

alternative to the ones on the usual

tourist itinerary

Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to

the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its

latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of

the skills of the local silversmiths Like many

of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was

established several centuries ago The ubosoth

or ordination hall is an intricately designed

silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in

the sunlight

The area around Wua Lai has been the home to

silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past

couple of centuries who are famed throughout

the kingdom for creating detailed embossed

relief patterns on the objects they create

something that is immediately evident and

celebrated at Wat Srisuphan

The larger more traditionally decorated red blue

and gold prayer hall also contains impressive

silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos

life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft

museum

Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the

artisans at work and the temple has its own

silver-working school where apprentices are

trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive

Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved

in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-

robed residents of the temple improve their

linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also

available

Unfortunately women are not allowed to

enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this

is explained on a sign outside the wording of

which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in

the monastic boundary many precious things

incantations amulets and other holy objects

were buried over 500 years ago Entering

inside this area may deteriorated the place or

otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most

of the interior can be appreciated from the

doorway

Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous

for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged

Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai

Due to its being less well advertised than its

neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham

is often a more peaceful temple from which

to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang

Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist

Lent when the place was alive with worshippers

Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once

the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic

giants Following a visit from the Buddha the

giants decided to mend their ways stop eating

their neighbours and convert to Buddhism

For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and

offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the

templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally

constructed towards the end of the 7th century

Although the temple fell into disrepair over the

centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered

a chamber containing a number of Buddha

images The discovery led to the revitalisation of

this mountain top temple

The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are

guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured

sword-wielding warriors The courtyard

overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and

bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of

food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the

road leading to the temple

Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-

west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek

and easily accessible by car or taxi

Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai

was being established the name translates

as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably

because it was used to cast Buddha images for

its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The

entrance to the temple is through a small but

intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos

assembly hall is notable because it is one of the

only viharns of its type constructed solely from

teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a

superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock

astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference

to the king who once used the wooden hall as

his palace The gilded image features mythical

creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured

glass

The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite

from the busy road outside Wooden boxes

contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm

leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a

large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors

Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks

like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a

small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less

imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo

temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru

recommends a quick visit if you are passing

Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous

temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi

Luang

The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the

largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it

was damaged either by an earthquake in the

16th century or cannon fire from the guns

of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese

in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO

funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps

up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga

serpents and a group of five elephants (only the

one without a trunk or ears partially survived

whatever caused the structure to collapse the

others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi

was also once home to one of the most revered

religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald

Buddha Although the original now resides in

Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and

once again looks out over the city from a niche

on the east side of the structure

Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and

now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly

hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance

is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a

great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar

housed in a building at the base of the tree

Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although

one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few

alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed

Mae Hong Son

It is said that Mae Hong Son is the

most authentic and mountainous

province of Thailand For Thai Guru a

good reason to explore this province

side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai

province

Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of

Thailand The northern most part of this

province is at a distance of 924 km from

Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province

in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son

borders Myanmar On the south and east side it

borders Tak and Chiang Mai province

We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast

on the 108 road The scenery is woody and

mountainous so far so good And as we leave

the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek

for wildlife and beautiful landscapes

The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage

is that our average speed drops to less than

15 km hour No worries when you do trips

like these the clock stops and the only thing

on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning

landscapes that unfold before your eyes

The main road is well paved But as you might

understand we regularly go off road

This is the best way to come into contact with

locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo

While we are standing somewhere taking in the

beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a

falcon calling

A short walk through the forrest the sound

stops and we decide to sit down for some

water and well earned rest After a short while I

hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo

There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters

above us a white rumped falcon

Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras

it stays there and even when we start making

noises because we want to film it in flight it

takes itrsquos time

Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of

Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They

cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more

Of course they also have their own cattle And

walking through one of their small villages they

are very friendly and hospitable

It has to be said it is never smart to enter

a community or people with your camera

as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask

the people if they mind if you taking their

photograph or want to film their daily life

In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to

the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean

and offers a nice variety food on the terrace

with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city

where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists

Really nice to stroll down the walking street and

find food or a nice souvenir People are very

friendly as usual

From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae

Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an

average speed of 15 km hour

Halfway we jump out of the car into a river

Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to

keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn

but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around

without it

Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome

us and are gladly willing to allow us to make

photographs and film them

In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early

morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises

For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum

After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark

Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon

So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team

ChinatownBangkok

Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese

people in big cities around the world

Manhattan San Francisco Manilla

Paris and Boston have them and

more keep being officially recognised

in their role as historical and touristic

center every year Even places like

Dubai and Las Vegas have modern

day versions of this phenomenon

As soon as you pass under one of the famous

large red entrance arches you arrive in a

complete different world

A world that is paradise for photographers

A couple of the photographers in the Thai

Guru team decided to spend some time in the

Bangkok version of Chinatown

If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for

some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at

Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim

Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat

SLEEPY NANA dream destination

Relatively unknown and uncrowded

Nan has it all This gem of a province

hides an abundance of cultural and

natural attractions ancient temples

pristine forests rivers mountain

peaks but what strikes you most is

its omnipresent feel of an untroubled

authentic way of life

Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings

you this genuine feel in pictures and footage

For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of

Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant

nature and the nature of its people show

Thailand - as is often said before hordes of

tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas

it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan

managed to escape this proces but will it stay

that way Nan shares most of its border with

neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening

of the border and beyond towards China it is to

be expected that it will ultimately become an

important gateway for trade and tourism

Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town

and the countryside will enchant you and the natural

cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy

for at least a couple of days The town along the banks

of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base

to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night

life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous

temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue

influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The

great surroundings can best be explored by renting a

motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo

Much of the province is devoted to farming

Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still

being practised in areas of the province resulting

in a landscape where forests and fields alternate

Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside

of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature

peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich

natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the

province sees far fewer visitors than popular

neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You

can go white water rafting on the Wa River

along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim

National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay

overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes

Touring Nan

Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern

lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities

of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old

salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via

endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges

and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with

orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers

Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready

to be harvested broke through the green hills

giving a golden hue to the landscape

We encountered friendly villagers who worked

their way through the dry fields - meanwhile

singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to

supplement their meager incomes Despite their

hardship they showed us their heartwarming

hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes

with us

This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi

Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and

sparsely populated that we only passed two

cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos

difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand

nowadays

PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river

The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness

begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over

the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above

the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is

broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices

Then the carved image of a Naga becomes

visible above the water line followed by more

than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted

in red and gold colorshellip

During the year the remote provincial town

of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a

year for the annual spectacle of traditional

Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos

water artery The finals are held over two

days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos

banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite

team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in

Thailand yet relatively unknown

The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long

simple shelters where the massive dragon boats

are housed during the year Just once a year

they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos

most important sporting and social event The

event takes place right after the end of the

rainy season around early November when

water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at

their highest The colorful races are part of the

festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the

last day of Buddhist Lent in October

The narrow boats are made from massive

hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters

in length depending how many paddlers they

are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily

distinguishable by their use of bright colors and

mythical designs in the traditional local style

The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of

each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting

only the good ones to participate in their race

How to get there

Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is

connected by plane and by bus to the rest of

the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan

Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice

each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to

Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to

Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on

the service

Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan

(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8

hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)

The contestants of the races are classified into

three categories mdashlarge medium and small

boats Depending on their length each boat can

accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers

sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the

same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously

against the current to the frantic beating of a

drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern

The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying

their attempt to reach the finish line first and

the paddles churning up the river creates a

spectacular atmosphere

Son

g K

ran

in

Ch

ian

g M

ai

Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of

the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down

in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The

days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing

steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the

hot months of April and May The stifling mid-

day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out

unless necessary The buzz around town about

some festival called Song Kran is starting to

increase an underlying excitement rising

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
  2. Button 4
  3. Button 9
  4. previous
  5. next
Page 34: Thaiguru issue10

Thai Guru decided to travel from Chiang Mai

to Sukhotai for this yearrsquos festivities Although

the heavens decided to open for most of the

celebrations on the final day the rain could not

dampen the celebrations and the spectacle was

jaw dropping

The only thing that was missing due to the rain

was a sky filled with khom loi the sky lanterns

usually released into the firmament in their

hundreds

Although the festivities officially last for the best

part of a week it is the last three days that are

the busiest

Visitors can join in with a range of activities

including fruit carving or just wander around the

historic park listening to live traditional music

watching Thai martial arts or join the parade

of dancers musicians and beauty contestants

all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured

costumes

There are numerous places to stay for the

duration of the festival but it is advisable to

book ahead if you can because this is a very

popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north

from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai Temples

A visit to a temple in Thailand is

unavoidable They are everywhere

We at Thai Guru are well aware that

because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can

quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang

Mai With this in mind (and because

the city is overflowing with hundreds

of them) we have chosen a few of

our favourites we hope are slightly

alternative to the ones on the usual

tourist itinerary

Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to

the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its

latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of

the skills of the local silversmiths Like many

of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was

established several centuries ago The ubosoth

or ordination hall is an intricately designed

silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in

the sunlight

The area around Wua Lai has been the home to

silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past

couple of centuries who are famed throughout

the kingdom for creating detailed embossed

relief patterns on the objects they create

something that is immediately evident and

celebrated at Wat Srisuphan

The larger more traditionally decorated red blue

and gold prayer hall also contains impressive

silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos

life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft

museum

Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the

artisans at work and the temple has its own

silver-working school where apprentices are

trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive

Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved

in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-

robed residents of the temple improve their

linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also

available

Unfortunately women are not allowed to

enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this

is explained on a sign outside the wording of

which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in

the monastic boundary many precious things

incantations amulets and other holy objects

were buried over 500 years ago Entering

inside this area may deteriorated the place or

otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most

of the interior can be appreciated from the

doorway

Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous

for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged

Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai

Due to its being less well advertised than its

neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham

is often a more peaceful temple from which

to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang

Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist

Lent when the place was alive with worshippers

Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once

the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic

giants Following a visit from the Buddha the

giants decided to mend their ways stop eating

their neighbours and convert to Buddhism

For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and

offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the

templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally

constructed towards the end of the 7th century

Although the temple fell into disrepair over the

centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered

a chamber containing a number of Buddha

images The discovery led to the revitalisation of

this mountain top temple

The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are

guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured

sword-wielding warriors The courtyard

overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and

bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of

food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the

road leading to the temple

Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-

west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek

and easily accessible by car or taxi

Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai

was being established the name translates

as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably

because it was used to cast Buddha images for

its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The

entrance to the temple is through a small but

intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos

assembly hall is notable because it is one of the

only viharns of its type constructed solely from

teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a

superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock

astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference

to the king who once used the wooden hall as

his palace The gilded image features mythical

creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured

glass

The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite

from the busy road outside Wooden boxes

contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm

leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a

large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors

Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks

like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a

small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less

imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo

temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru

recommends a quick visit if you are passing

Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous

temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi

Luang

The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the

largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it

was damaged either by an earthquake in the

16th century or cannon fire from the guns

of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese

in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO

funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps

up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga

serpents and a group of five elephants (only the

one without a trunk or ears partially survived

whatever caused the structure to collapse the

others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi

was also once home to one of the most revered

religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald

Buddha Although the original now resides in

Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and

once again looks out over the city from a niche

on the east side of the structure

Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and

now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly

hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance

is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a

great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar

housed in a building at the base of the tree

Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although

one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few

alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed

Mae Hong Son

It is said that Mae Hong Son is the

most authentic and mountainous

province of Thailand For Thai Guru a

good reason to explore this province

side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai

province

Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of

Thailand The northern most part of this

province is at a distance of 924 km from

Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province

in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son

borders Myanmar On the south and east side it

borders Tak and Chiang Mai province

We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast

on the 108 road The scenery is woody and

mountainous so far so good And as we leave

the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek

for wildlife and beautiful landscapes

The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage

is that our average speed drops to less than

15 km hour No worries when you do trips

like these the clock stops and the only thing

on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning

landscapes that unfold before your eyes

The main road is well paved But as you might

understand we regularly go off road

This is the best way to come into contact with

locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo

While we are standing somewhere taking in the

beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a

falcon calling

A short walk through the forrest the sound

stops and we decide to sit down for some

water and well earned rest After a short while I

hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo

There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters

above us a white rumped falcon

Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras

it stays there and even when we start making

noises because we want to film it in flight it

takes itrsquos time

Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of

Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They

cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more

Of course they also have their own cattle And

walking through one of their small villages they

are very friendly and hospitable

It has to be said it is never smart to enter

a community or people with your camera

as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask

the people if they mind if you taking their

photograph or want to film their daily life

In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to

the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean

and offers a nice variety food on the terrace

with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city

where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists

Really nice to stroll down the walking street and

find food or a nice souvenir People are very

friendly as usual

From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae

Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an

average speed of 15 km hour

Halfway we jump out of the car into a river

Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to

keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn

but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around

without it

Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome

us and are gladly willing to allow us to make

photographs and film them

In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early

morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises

For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum

After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark

Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon

So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team

ChinatownBangkok

Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese

people in big cities around the world

Manhattan San Francisco Manilla

Paris and Boston have them and

more keep being officially recognised

in their role as historical and touristic

center every year Even places like

Dubai and Las Vegas have modern

day versions of this phenomenon

As soon as you pass under one of the famous

large red entrance arches you arrive in a

complete different world

A world that is paradise for photographers

A couple of the photographers in the Thai

Guru team decided to spend some time in the

Bangkok version of Chinatown

If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for

some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at

Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim

Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat

SLEEPY NANA dream destination

Relatively unknown and uncrowded

Nan has it all This gem of a province

hides an abundance of cultural and

natural attractions ancient temples

pristine forests rivers mountain

peaks but what strikes you most is

its omnipresent feel of an untroubled

authentic way of life

Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings

you this genuine feel in pictures and footage

For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of

Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant

nature and the nature of its people show

Thailand - as is often said before hordes of

tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas

it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan

managed to escape this proces but will it stay

that way Nan shares most of its border with

neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening

of the border and beyond towards China it is to

be expected that it will ultimately become an

important gateway for trade and tourism

Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town

and the countryside will enchant you and the natural

cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy

for at least a couple of days The town along the banks

of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base

to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night

life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous

temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue

influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The

great surroundings can best be explored by renting a

motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo

Much of the province is devoted to farming

Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still

being practised in areas of the province resulting

in a landscape where forests and fields alternate

Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside

of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature

peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich

natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the

province sees far fewer visitors than popular

neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You

can go white water rafting on the Wa River

along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim

National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay

overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes

Touring Nan

Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern

lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities

of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old

salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via

endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges

and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with

orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers

Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready

to be harvested broke through the green hills

giving a golden hue to the landscape

We encountered friendly villagers who worked

their way through the dry fields - meanwhile

singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to

supplement their meager incomes Despite their

hardship they showed us their heartwarming

hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes

with us

This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi

Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and

sparsely populated that we only passed two

cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos

difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand

nowadays

PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river

The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness

begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over

the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above

the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is

broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices

Then the carved image of a Naga becomes

visible above the water line followed by more

than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted

in red and gold colorshellip

During the year the remote provincial town

of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a

year for the annual spectacle of traditional

Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos

water artery The finals are held over two

days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos

banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite

team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in

Thailand yet relatively unknown

The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long

simple shelters where the massive dragon boats

are housed during the year Just once a year

they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos

most important sporting and social event The

event takes place right after the end of the

rainy season around early November when

water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at

their highest The colorful races are part of the

festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the

last day of Buddhist Lent in October

The narrow boats are made from massive

hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters

in length depending how many paddlers they

are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily

distinguishable by their use of bright colors and

mythical designs in the traditional local style

The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of

each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting

only the good ones to participate in their race

How to get there

Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is

connected by plane and by bus to the rest of

the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan

Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice

each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to

Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to

Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on

the service

Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan

(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8

hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)

The contestants of the races are classified into

three categories mdashlarge medium and small

boats Depending on their length each boat can

accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers

sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the

same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously

against the current to the frantic beating of a

drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern

The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying

their attempt to reach the finish line first and

the paddles churning up the river creates a

spectacular atmosphere

Son

g K

ran

in

Ch

ian

g M

ai

Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of

the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down

in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The

days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing

steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the

hot months of April and May The stifling mid-

day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out

unless necessary The buzz around town about

some festival called Song Kran is starting to

increase an underlying excitement rising

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
  2. Button 4
  3. Button 9
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  5. next
Page 35: Thaiguru issue10

Although the festivities officially last for the best

part of a week it is the last three days that are

the busiest

Visitors can join in with a range of activities

including fruit carving or just wander around the

historic park listening to live traditional music

watching Thai martial arts or join the parade

of dancers musicians and beauty contestants

all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured

costumes

There are numerous places to stay for the

duration of the festival but it is advisable to

book ahead if you can because this is a very

popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north

from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai Temples

A visit to a temple in Thailand is

unavoidable They are everywhere

We at Thai Guru are well aware that

because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can

quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang

Mai With this in mind (and because

the city is overflowing with hundreds

of them) we have chosen a few of

our favourites we hope are slightly

alternative to the ones on the usual

tourist itinerary

Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to

the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its

latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of

the skills of the local silversmiths Like many

of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was

established several centuries ago The ubosoth

or ordination hall is an intricately designed

silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in

the sunlight

The area around Wua Lai has been the home to

silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past

couple of centuries who are famed throughout

the kingdom for creating detailed embossed

relief patterns on the objects they create

something that is immediately evident and

celebrated at Wat Srisuphan

The larger more traditionally decorated red blue

and gold prayer hall also contains impressive

silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos

life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft

museum

Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the

artisans at work and the temple has its own

silver-working school where apprentices are

trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive

Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved

in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-

robed residents of the temple improve their

linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also

available

Unfortunately women are not allowed to

enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this

is explained on a sign outside the wording of

which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in

the monastic boundary many precious things

incantations amulets and other holy objects

were buried over 500 years ago Entering

inside this area may deteriorated the place or

otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most

of the interior can be appreciated from the

doorway

Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous

for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged

Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai

Due to its being less well advertised than its

neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham

is often a more peaceful temple from which

to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang

Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist

Lent when the place was alive with worshippers

Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once

the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic

giants Following a visit from the Buddha the

giants decided to mend their ways stop eating

their neighbours and convert to Buddhism

For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and

offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the

templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally

constructed towards the end of the 7th century

Although the temple fell into disrepair over the

centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered

a chamber containing a number of Buddha

images The discovery led to the revitalisation of

this mountain top temple

The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are

guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured

sword-wielding warriors The courtyard

overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and

bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of

food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the

road leading to the temple

Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-

west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek

and easily accessible by car or taxi

Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai

was being established the name translates

as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably

because it was used to cast Buddha images for

its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The

entrance to the temple is through a small but

intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos

assembly hall is notable because it is one of the

only viharns of its type constructed solely from

teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a

superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock

astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference

to the king who once used the wooden hall as

his palace The gilded image features mythical

creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured

glass

The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite

from the busy road outside Wooden boxes

contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm

leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a

large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors

Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks

like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a

small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less

imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo

temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru

recommends a quick visit if you are passing

Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous

temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi

Luang

The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the

largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it

was damaged either by an earthquake in the

16th century or cannon fire from the guns

of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese

in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO

funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps

up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga

serpents and a group of five elephants (only the

one without a trunk or ears partially survived

whatever caused the structure to collapse the

others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi

was also once home to one of the most revered

religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald

Buddha Although the original now resides in

Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and

once again looks out over the city from a niche

on the east side of the structure

Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and

now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly

hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance

is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a

great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar

housed in a building at the base of the tree

Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although

one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few

alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed

Mae Hong Son

It is said that Mae Hong Son is the

most authentic and mountainous

province of Thailand For Thai Guru a

good reason to explore this province

side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai

province

Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of

Thailand The northern most part of this

province is at a distance of 924 km from

Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province

in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son

borders Myanmar On the south and east side it

borders Tak and Chiang Mai province

We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast

on the 108 road The scenery is woody and

mountainous so far so good And as we leave

the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek

for wildlife and beautiful landscapes

The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage

is that our average speed drops to less than

15 km hour No worries when you do trips

like these the clock stops and the only thing

on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning

landscapes that unfold before your eyes

The main road is well paved But as you might

understand we regularly go off road

This is the best way to come into contact with

locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo

While we are standing somewhere taking in the

beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a

falcon calling

A short walk through the forrest the sound

stops and we decide to sit down for some

water and well earned rest After a short while I

hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo

There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters

above us a white rumped falcon

Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras

it stays there and even when we start making

noises because we want to film it in flight it

takes itrsquos time

Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of

Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They

cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more

Of course they also have their own cattle And

walking through one of their small villages they

are very friendly and hospitable

It has to be said it is never smart to enter

a community or people with your camera

as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask

the people if they mind if you taking their

photograph or want to film their daily life

In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to

the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean

and offers a nice variety food on the terrace

with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city

where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists

Really nice to stroll down the walking street and

find food or a nice souvenir People are very

friendly as usual

From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae

Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an

average speed of 15 km hour

Halfway we jump out of the car into a river

Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to

keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn

but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around

without it

Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome

us and are gladly willing to allow us to make

photographs and film them

In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early

morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises

For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum

After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark

Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon

So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team

ChinatownBangkok

Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese

people in big cities around the world

Manhattan San Francisco Manilla

Paris and Boston have them and

more keep being officially recognised

in their role as historical and touristic

center every year Even places like

Dubai and Las Vegas have modern

day versions of this phenomenon

As soon as you pass under one of the famous

large red entrance arches you arrive in a

complete different world

A world that is paradise for photographers

A couple of the photographers in the Thai

Guru team decided to spend some time in the

Bangkok version of Chinatown

If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for

some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at

Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim

Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat

SLEEPY NANA dream destination

Relatively unknown and uncrowded

Nan has it all This gem of a province

hides an abundance of cultural and

natural attractions ancient temples

pristine forests rivers mountain

peaks but what strikes you most is

its omnipresent feel of an untroubled

authentic way of life

Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings

you this genuine feel in pictures and footage

For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of

Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant

nature and the nature of its people show

Thailand - as is often said before hordes of

tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas

it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan

managed to escape this proces but will it stay

that way Nan shares most of its border with

neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening

of the border and beyond towards China it is to

be expected that it will ultimately become an

important gateway for trade and tourism

Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town

and the countryside will enchant you and the natural

cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy

for at least a couple of days The town along the banks

of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base

to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night

life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous

temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue

influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The

great surroundings can best be explored by renting a

motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo

Much of the province is devoted to farming

Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still

being practised in areas of the province resulting

in a landscape where forests and fields alternate

Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside

of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature

peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich

natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the

province sees far fewer visitors than popular

neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You

can go white water rafting on the Wa River

along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim

National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay

overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes

Touring Nan

Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern

lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities

of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old

salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via

endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges

and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with

orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers

Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready

to be harvested broke through the green hills

giving a golden hue to the landscape

We encountered friendly villagers who worked

their way through the dry fields - meanwhile

singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to

supplement their meager incomes Despite their

hardship they showed us their heartwarming

hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes

with us

This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi

Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and

sparsely populated that we only passed two

cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos

difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand

nowadays

PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river

The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness

begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over

the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above

the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is

broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices

Then the carved image of a Naga becomes

visible above the water line followed by more

than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted

in red and gold colorshellip

During the year the remote provincial town

of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a

year for the annual spectacle of traditional

Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos

water artery The finals are held over two

days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos

banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite

team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in

Thailand yet relatively unknown

The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long

simple shelters where the massive dragon boats

are housed during the year Just once a year

they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos

most important sporting and social event The

event takes place right after the end of the

rainy season around early November when

water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at

their highest The colorful races are part of the

festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the

last day of Buddhist Lent in October

The narrow boats are made from massive

hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters

in length depending how many paddlers they

are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily

distinguishable by their use of bright colors and

mythical designs in the traditional local style

The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of

each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting

only the good ones to participate in their race

How to get there

Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is

connected by plane and by bus to the rest of

the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan

Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice

each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to

Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to

Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on

the service

Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan

(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8

hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)

The contestants of the races are classified into

three categories mdashlarge medium and small

boats Depending on their length each boat can

accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers

sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the

same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously

against the current to the frantic beating of a

drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern

The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying

their attempt to reach the finish line first and

the paddles churning up the river creates a

spectacular atmosphere

Son

g K

ran

in

Ch

ian

g M

ai

Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of

the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down

in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The

days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing

steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the

hot months of April and May The stifling mid-

day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out

unless necessary The buzz around town about

some festival called Song Kran is starting to

increase an underlying excitement rising

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
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  5. next
Page 36: Thaiguru issue10

Chiang Mai Temples

A visit to a temple in Thailand is

unavoidable They are everywhere

We at Thai Guru are well aware that

because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can

quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang

Mai With this in mind (and because

the city is overflowing with hundreds

of them) we have chosen a few of

our favourites we hope are slightly

alternative to the ones on the usual

tourist itinerary

Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to

the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its

latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of

the skills of the local silversmiths Like many

of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was

established several centuries ago The ubosoth

or ordination hall is an intricately designed

silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in

the sunlight

The area around Wua Lai has been the home to

silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past

couple of centuries who are famed throughout

the kingdom for creating detailed embossed

relief patterns on the objects they create

something that is immediately evident and

celebrated at Wat Srisuphan

The larger more traditionally decorated red blue

and gold prayer hall also contains impressive

silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos

life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft

museum

Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the

artisans at work and the temple has its own

silver-working school where apprentices are

trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive

Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved

in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-

robed residents of the temple improve their

linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also

available

Unfortunately women are not allowed to

enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this

is explained on a sign outside the wording of

which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in

the monastic boundary many precious things

incantations amulets and other holy objects

were buried over 500 years ago Entering

inside this area may deteriorated the place or

otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most

of the interior can be appreciated from the

doorway

Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous

for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged

Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai

Due to its being less well advertised than its

neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham

is often a more peaceful temple from which

to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang

Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist

Lent when the place was alive with worshippers

Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once

the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic

giants Following a visit from the Buddha the

giants decided to mend their ways stop eating

their neighbours and convert to Buddhism

For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and

offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the

templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally

constructed towards the end of the 7th century

Although the temple fell into disrepair over the

centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered

a chamber containing a number of Buddha

images The discovery led to the revitalisation of

this mountain top temple

The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are

guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured

sword-wielding warriors The courtyard

overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and

bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of

food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the

road leading to the temple

Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-

west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek

and easily accessible by car or taxi

Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai

was being established the name translates

as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably

because it was used to cast Buddha images for

its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The

entrance to the temple is through a small but

intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos

assembly hall is notable because it is one of the

only viharns of its type constructed solely from

teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a

superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock

astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference

to the king who once used the wooden hall as

his palace The gilded image features mythical

creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured

glass

The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite

from the busy road outside Wooden boxes

contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm

leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a

large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors

Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks

like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a

small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less

imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo

temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru

recommends a quick visit if you are passing

Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous

temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi

Luang

The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the

largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it

was damaged either by an earthquake in the

16th century or cannon fire from the guns

of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese

in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO

funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps

up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga

serpents and a group of five elephants (only the

one without a trunk or ears partially survived

whatever caused the structure to collapse the

others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi

was also once home to one of the most revered

religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald

Buddha Although the original now resides in

Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and

once again looks out over the city from a niche

on the east side of the structure

Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and

now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly

hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance

is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a

great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar

housed in a building at the base of the tree

Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although

one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few

alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed

Mae Hong Son

It is said that Mae Hong Son is the

most authentic and mountainous

province of Thailand For Thai Guru a

good reason to explore this province

side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai

province

Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of

Thailand The northern most part of this

province is at a distance of 924 km from

Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province

in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son

borders Myanmar On the south and east side it

borders Tak and Chiang Mai province

We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast

on the 108 road The scenery is woody and

mountainous so far so good And as we leave

the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek

for wildlife and beautiful landscapes

The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage

is that our average speed drops to less than

15 km hour No worries when you do trips

like these the clock stops and the only thing

on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning

landscapes that unfold before your eyes

The main road is well paved But as you might

understand we regularly go off road

This is the best way to come into contact with

locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo

While we are standing somewhere taking in the

beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a

falcon calling

A short walk through the forrest the sound

stops and we decide to sit down for some

water and well earned rest After a short while I

hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo

There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters

above us a white rumped falcon

Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras

it stays there and even when we start making

noises because we want to film it in flight it

takes itrsquos time

Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of

Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They

cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more

Of course they also have their own cattle And

walking through one of their small villages they

are very friendly and hospitable

It has to be said it is never smart to enter

a community or people with your camera

as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask

the people if they mind if you taking their

photograph or want to film their daily life

In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to

the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean

and offers a nice variety food on the terrace

with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city

where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists

Really nice to stroll down the walking street and

find food or a nice souvenir People are very

friendly as usual

From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae

Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an

average speed of 15 km hour

Halfway we jump out of the car into a river

Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to

keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn

but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around

without it

Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome

us and are gladly willing to allow us to make

photographs and film them

In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early

morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises

For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum

After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark

Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon

So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team

ChinatownBangkok

Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese

people in big cities around the world

Manhattan San Francisco Manilla

Paris and Boston have them and

more keep being officially recognised

in their role as historical and touristic

center every year Even places like

Dubai and Las Vegas have modern

day versions of this phenomenon

As soon as you pass under one of the famous

large red entrance arches you arrive in a

complete different world

A world that is paradise for photographers

A couple of the photographers in the Thai

Guru team decided to spend some time in the

Bangkok version of Chinatown

If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for

some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at

Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim

Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat

SLEEPY NANA dream destination

Relatively unknown and uncrowded

Nan has it all This gem of a province

hides an abundance of cultural and

natural attractions ancient temples

pristine forests rivers mountain

peaks but what strikes you most is

its omnipresent feel of an untroubled

authentic way of life

Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings

you this genuine feel in pictures and footage

For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of

Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant

nature and the nature of its people show

Thailand - as is often said before hordes of

tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas

it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan

managed to escape this proces but will it stay

that way Nan shares most of its border with

neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening

of the border and beyond towards China it is to

be expected that it will ultimately become an

important gateway for trade and tourism

Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town

and the countryside will enchant you and the natural

cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy

for at least a couple of days The town along the banks

of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base

to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night

life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous

temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue

influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The

great surroundings can best be explored by renting a

motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo

Much of the province is devoted to farming

Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still

being practised in areas of the province resulting

in a landscape where forests and fields alternate

Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside

of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature

peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich

natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the

province sees far fewer visitors than popular

neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You

can go white water rafting on the Wa River

along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim

National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay

overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes

Touring Nan

Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern

lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities

of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old

salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via

endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges

and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with

orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers

Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready

to be harvested broke through the green hills

giving a golden hue to the landscape

We encountered friendly villagers who worked

their way through the dry fields - meanwhile

singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to

supplement their meager incomes Despite their

hardship they showed us their heartwarming

hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes

with us

This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi

Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and

sparsely populated that we only passed two

cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos

difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand

nowadays

PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river

The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness

begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over

the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above

the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is

broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices

Then the carved image of a Naga becomes

visible above the water line followed by more

than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted

in red and gold colorshellip

During the year the remote provincial town

of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a

year for the annual spectacle of traditional

Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos

water artery The finals are held over two

days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos

banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite

team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in

Thailand yet relatively unknown

The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long

simple shelters where the massive dragon boats

are housed during the year Just once a year

they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos

most important sporting and social event The

event takes place right after the end of the

rainy season around early November when

water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at

their highest The colorful races are part of the

festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the

last day of Buddhist Lent in October

The narrow boats are made from massive

hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters

in length depending how many paddlers they

are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily

distinguishable by their use of bright colors and

mythical designs in the traditional local style

The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of

each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting

only the good ones to participate in their race

How to get there

Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is

connected by plane and by bus to the rest of

the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan

Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice

each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to

Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to

Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on

the service

Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan

(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8

hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)

The contestants of the races are classified into

three categories mdashlarge medium and small

boats Depending on their length each boat can

accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers

sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the

same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously

against the current to the frantic beating of a

drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern

The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying

their attempt to reach the finish line first and

the paddles churning up the river creates a

spectacular atmosphere

Son

g K

ran

in

Ch

ian

g M

ai

Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of

the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down

in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The

days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing

steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the

hot months of April and May The stifling mid-

day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out

unless necessary The buzz around town about

some festival called Song Kran is starting to

increase an underlying excitement rising

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
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Page 37: Thaiguru issue10

A visit to a temple in Thailand is

unavoidable They are everywhere

We at Thai Guru are well aware that

because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can

quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang

Mai With this in mind (and because

the city is overflowing with hundreds

of them) we have chosen a few of

our favourites we hope are slightly

alternative to the ones on the usual

tourist itinerary

Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to

the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its

latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of

the skills of the local silversmiths Like many

of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was

established several centuries ago The ubosoth

or ordination hall is an intricately designed

silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in

the sunlight

The area around Wua Lai has been the home to

silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past

couple of centuries who are famed throughout

the kingdom for creating detailed embossed

relief patterns on the objects they create

something that is immediately evident and

celebrated at Wat Srisuphan

The larger more traditionally decorated red blue

and gold prayer hall also contains impressive

silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos

life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft

museum

Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the

artisans at work and the temple has its own

silver-working school where apprentices are

trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive

Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved

in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-

robed residents of the temple improve their

linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also

available

Unfortunately women are not allowed to

enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this

is explained on a sign outside the wording of

which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in

the monastic boundary many precious things

incantations amulets and other holy objects

were buried over 500 years ago Entering

inside this area may deteriorated the place or

otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most

of the interior can be appreciated from the

doorway

Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous

for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged

Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai

Due to its being less well advertised than its

neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham

is often a more peaceful temple from which

to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang

Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist

Lent when the place was alive with worshippers

Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once

the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic

giants Following a visit from the Buddha the

giants decided to mend their ways stop eating

their neighbours and convert to Buddhism

For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and

offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the

templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally

constructed towards the end of the 7th century

Although the temple fell into disrepair over the

centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered

a chamber containing a number of Buddha

images The discovery led to the revitalisation of

this mountain top temple

The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are

guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured

sword-wielding warriors The courtyard

overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and

bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of

food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the

road leading to the temple

Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-

west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek

and easily accessible by car or taxi

Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai

was being established the name translates

as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably

because it was used to cast Buddha images for

its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The

entrance to the temple is through a small but

intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos

assembly hall is notable because it is one of the

only viharns of its type constructed solely from

teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a

superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock

astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference

to the king who once used the wooden hall as

his palace The gilded image features mythical

creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured

glass

The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite

from the busy road outside Wooden boxes

contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm

leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a

large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors

Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks

like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a

small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less

imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo

temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru

recommends a quick visit if you are passing

Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous

temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi

Luang

The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the

largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it

was damaged either by an earthquake in the

16th century or cannon fire from the guns

of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese

in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO

funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps

up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga

serpents and a group of five elephants (only the

one without a trunk or ears partially survived

whatever caused the structure to collapse the

others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi

was also once home to one of the most revered

religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald

Buddha Although the original now resides in

Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and

once again looks out over the city from a niche

on the east side of the structure

Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and

now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly

hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance

is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a

great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar

housed in a building at the base of the tree

Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although

one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few

alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed

Mae Hong Son

It is said that Mae Hong Son is the

most authentic and mountainous

province of Thailand For Thai Guru a

good reason to explore this province

side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai

province

Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of

Thailand The northern most part of this

province is at a distance of 924 km from

Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province

in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son

borders Myanmar On the south and east side it

borders Tak and Chiang Mai province

We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast

on the 108 road The scenery is woody and

mountainous so far so good And as we leave

the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek

for wildlife and beautiful landscapes

The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage

is that our average speed drops to less than

15 km hour No worries when you do trips

like these the clock stops and the only thing

on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning

landscapes that unfold before your eyes

The main road is well paved But as you might

understand we regularly go off road

This is the best way to come into contact with

locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo

While we are standing somewhere taking in the

beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a

falcon calling

A short walk through the forrest the sound

stops and we decide to sit down for some

water and well earned rest After a short while I

hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo

There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters

above us a white rumped falcon

Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras

it stays there and even when we start making

noises because we want to film it in flight it

takes itrsquos time

Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of

Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They

cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more

Of course they also have their own cattle And

walking through one of their small villages they

are very friendly and hospitable

It has to be said it is never smart to enter

a community or people with your camera

as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask

the people if they mind if you taking their

photograph or want to film their daily life

In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to

the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean

and offers a nice variety food on the terrace

with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city

where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists

Really nice to stroll down the walking street and

find food or a nice souvenir People are very

friendly as usual

From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae

Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an

average speed of 15 km hour

Halfway we jump out of the car into a river

Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to

keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn

but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around

without it

Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome

us and are gladly willing to allow us to make

photographs and film them

In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early

morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises

For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum

After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark

Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon

So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team

ChinatownBangkok

Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese

people in big cities around the world

Manhattan San Francisco Manilla

Paris and Boston have them and

more keep being officially recognised

in their role as historical and touristic

center every year Even places like

Dubai and Las Vegas have modern

day versions of this phenomenon

As soon as you pass under one of the famous

large red entrance arches you arrive in a

complete different world

A world that is paradise for photographers

A couple of the photographers in the Thai

Guru team decided to spend some time in the

Bangkok version of Chinatown

If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for

some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at

Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim

Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat

SLEEPY NANA dream destination

Relatively unknown and uncrowded

Nan has it all This gem of a province

hides an abundance of cultural and

natural attractions ancient temples

pristine forests rivers mountain

peaks but what strikes you most is

its omnipresent feel of an untroubled

authentic way of life

Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings

you this genuine feel in pictures and footage

For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of

Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant

nature and the nature of its people show

Thailand - as is often said before hordes of

tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas

it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan

managed to escape this proces but will it stay

that way Nan shares most of its border with

neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening

of the border and beyond towards China it is to

be expected that it will ultimately become an

important gateway for trade and tourism

Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town

and the countryside will enchant you and the natural

cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy

for at least a couple of days The town along the banks

of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base

to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night

life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous

temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue

influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The

great surroundings can best be explored by renting a

motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo

Much of the province is devoted to farming

Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still

being practised in areas of the province resulting

in a landscape where forests and fields alternate

Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside

of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature

peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich

natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the

province sees far fewer visitors than popular

neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You

can go white water rafting on the Wa River

along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim

National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay

overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes

Touring Nan

Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern

lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities

of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old

salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via

endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges

and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with

orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers

Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready

to be harvested broke through the green hills

giving a golden hue to the landscape

We encountered friendly villagers who worked

their way through the dry fields - meanwhile

singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to

supplement their meager incomes Despite their

hardship they showed us their heartwarming

hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes

with us

This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi

Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and

sparsely populated that we only passed two

cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos

difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand

nowadays

PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river

The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness

begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over

the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above

the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is

broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices

Then the carved image of a Naga becomes

visible above the water line followed by more

than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted

in red and gold colorshellip

During the year the remote provincial town

of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a

year for the annual spectacle of traditional

Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos

water artery The finals are held over two

days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos

banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite

team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in

Thailand yet relatively unknown

The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long

simple shelters where the massive dragon boats

are housed during the year Just once a year

they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos

most important sporting and social event The

event takes place right after the end of the

rainy season around early November when

water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at

their highest The colorful races are part of the

festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the

last day of Buddhist Lent in October

The narrow boats are made from massive

hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters

in length depending how many paddlers they

are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily

distinguishable by their use of bright colors and

mythical designs in the traditional local style

The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of

each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting

only the good ones to participate in their race

How to get there

Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is

connected by plane and by bus to the rest of

the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan

Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice

each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to

Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to

Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on

the service

Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan

(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8

hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)

The contestants of the races are classified into

three categories mdashlarge medium and small

boats Depending on their length each boat can

accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers

sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the

same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously

against the current to the frantic beating of a

drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern

The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying

their attempt to reach the finish line first and

the paddles churning up the river creates a

spectacular atmosphere

Son

g K

ran

in

Ch

ian

g M

ai

Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of

the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down

in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The

days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing

steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the

hot months of April and May The stifling mid-

day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out

unless necessary The buzz around town about

some festival called Song Kran is starting to

increase an underlying excitement rising

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
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Page 38: Thaiguru issue10

Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to

the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its

latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of

the skills of the local silversmiths Like many

of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was

established several centuries ago The ubosoth

or ordination hall is an intricately designed

silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in

the sunlight

The area around Wua Lai has been the home to

silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past

couple of centuries who are famed throughout

the kingdom for creating detailed embossed

relief patterns on the objects they create

something that is immediately evident and

celebrated at Wat Srisuphan

The larger more traditionally decorated red blue

and gold prayer hall also contains impressive

silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos

life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft

museum

Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the

artisans at work and the temple has its own

silver-working school where apprentices are

trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive

Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved

in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-

robed residents of the temple improve their

linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also

available

Unfortunately women are not allowed to

enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this

is explained on a sign outside the wording of

which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in

the monastic boundary many precious things

incantations amulets and other holy objects

were buried over 500 years ago Entering

inside this area may deteriorated the place or

otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most

of the interior can be appreciated from the

doorway

Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous

for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged

Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai

Due to its being less well advertised than its

neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham

is often a more peaceful temple from which

to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang

Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist

Lent when the place was alive with worshippers

Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once

the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic

giants Following a visit from the Buddha the

giants decided to mend their ways stop eating

their neighbours and convert to Buddhism

For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and

offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the

templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally

constructed towards the end of the 7th century

Although the temple fell into disrepair over the

centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered

a chamber containing a number of Buddha

images The discovery led to the revitalisation of

this mountain top temple

The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are

guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured

sword-wielding warriors The courtyard

overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and

bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of

food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the

road leading to the temple

Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-

west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek

and easily accessible by car or taxi

Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai

was being established the name translates

as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably

because it was used to cast Buddha images for

its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The

entrance to the temple is through a small but

intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos

assembly hall is notable because it is one of the

only viharns of its type constructed solely from

teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a

superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock

astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference

to the king who once used the wooden hall as

his palace The gilded image features mythical

creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured

glass

The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite

from the busy road outside Wooden boxes

contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm

leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a

large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors

Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks

like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a

small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less

imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo

temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru

recommends a quick visit if you are passing

Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous

temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi

Luang

The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the

largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it

was damaged either by an earthquake in the

16th century or cannon fire from the guns

of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese

in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO

funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps

up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga

serpents and a group of five elephants (only the

one without a trunk or ears partially survived

whatever caused the structure to collapse the

others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi

was also once home to one of the most revered

religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald

Buddha Although the original now resides in

Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and

once again looks out over the city from a niche

on the east side of the structure

Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and

now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly

hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance

is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a

great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar

housed in a building at the base of the tree

Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although

one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few

alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed

Mae Hong Son

It is said that Mae Hong Son is the

most authentic and mountainous

province of Thailand For Thai Guru a

good reason to explore this province

side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai

province

Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of

Thailand The northern most part of this

province is at a distance of 924 km from

Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province

in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son

borders Myanmar On the south and east side it

borders Tak and Chiang Mai province

We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast

on the 108 road The scenery is woody and

mountainous so far so good And as we leave

the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek

for wildlife and beautiful landscapes

The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage

is that our average speed drops to less than

15 km hour No worries when you do trips

like these the clock stops and the only thing

on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning

landscapes that unfold before your eyes

The main road is well paved But as you might

understand we regularly go off road

This is the best way to come into contact with

locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo

While we are standing somewhere taking in the

beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a

falcon calling

A short walk through the forrest the sound

stops and we decide to sit down for some

water and well earned rest After a short while I

hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo

There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters

above us a white rumped falcon

Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras

it stays there and even when we start making

noises because we want to film it in flight it

takes itrsquos time

Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of

Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They

cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more

Of course they also have their own cattle And

walking through one of their small villages they

are very friendly and hospitable

It has to be said it is never smart to enter

a community or people with your camera

as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask

the people if they mind if you taking their

photograph or want to film their daily life

In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to

the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean

and offers a nice variety food on the terrace

with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city

where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists

Really nice to stroll down the walking street and

find food or a nice souvenir People are very

friendly as usual

From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae

Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an

average speed of 15 km hour

Halfway we jump out of the car into a river

Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to

keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn

but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around

without it

Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome

us and are gladly willing to allow us to make

photographs and film them

In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early

morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises

For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum

After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark

Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon

So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team

ChinatownBangkok

Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese

people in big cities around the world

Manhattan San Francisco Manilla

Paris and Boston have them and

more keep being officially recognised

in their role as historical and touristic

center every year Even places like

Dubai and Las Vegas have modern

day versions of this phenomenon

As soon as you pass under one of the famous

large red entrance arches you arrive in a

complete different world

A world that is paradise for photographers

A couple of the photographers in the Thai

Guru team decided to spend some time in the

Bangkok version of Chinatown

If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for

some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at

Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim

Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat

SLEEPY NANA dream destination

Relatively unknown and uncrowded

Nan has it all This gem of a province

hides an abundance of cultural and

natural attractions ancient temples

pristine forests rivers mountain

peaks but what strikes you most is

its omnipresent feel of an untroubled

authentic way of life

Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings

you this genuine feel in pictures and footage

For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of

Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant

nature and the nature of its people show

Thailand - as is often said before hordes of

tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas

it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan

managed to escape this proces but will it stay

that way Nan shares most of its border with

neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening

of the border and beyond towards China it is to

be expected that it will ultimately become an

important gateway for trade and tourism

Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town

and the countryside will enchant you and the natural

cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy

for at least a couple of days The town along the banks

of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base

to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night

life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous

temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue

influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The

great surroundings can best be explored by renting a

motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo

Much of the province is devoted to farming

Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still

being practised in areas of the province resulting

in a landscape where forests and fields alternate

Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside

of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature

peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich

natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the

province sees far fewer visitors than popular

neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You

can go white water rafting on the Wa River

along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim

National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay

overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes

Touring Nan

Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern

lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities

of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old

salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via

endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges

and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with

orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers

Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready

to be harvested broke through the green hills

giving a golden hue to the landscape

We encountered friendly villagers who worked

their way through the dry fields - meanwhile

singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to

supplement their meager incomes Despite their

hardship they showed us their heartwarming

hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes

with us

This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi

Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and

sparsely populated that we only passed two

cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos

difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand

nowadays

PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river

The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness

begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over

the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above

the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is

broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices

Then the carved image of a Naga becomes

visible above the water line followed by more

than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted

in red and gold colorshellip

During the year the remote provincial town

of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a

year for the annual spectacle of traditional

Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos

water artery The finals are held over two

days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos

banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite

team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in

Thailand yet relatively unknown

The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long

simple shelters where the massive dragon boats

are housed during the year Just once a year

they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos

most important sporting and social event The

event takes place right after the end of the

rainy season around early November when

water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at

their highest The colorful races are part of the

festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the

last day of Buddhist Lent in October

The narrow boats are made from massive

hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters

in length depending how many paddlers they

are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily

distinguishable by their use of bright colors and

mythical designs in the traditional local style

The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of

each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting

only the good ones to participate in their race

How to get there

Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is

connected by plane and by bus to the rest of

the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan

Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice

each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to

Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to

Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on

the service

Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan

(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8

hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)

The contestants of the races are classified into

three categories mdashlarge medium and small

boats Depending on their length each boat can

accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers

sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the

same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously

against the current to the frantic beating of a

drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern

The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying

their attempt to reach the finish line first and

the paddles churning up the river creates a

spectacular atmosphere

Son

g K

ran

in

Ch

ian

g M

ai

Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of

the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down

in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The

days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing

steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the

hot months of April and May The stifling mid-

day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out

unless necessary The buzz around town about

some festival called Song Kran is starting to

increase an underlying excitement rising

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

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Page 39: Thaiguru issue10

The larger more traditionally decorated red blue

and gold prayer hall also contains impressive

silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos

life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft

museum

Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the

artisans at work and the temple has its own

silver-working school where apprentices are

trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive

Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved

in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-

robed residents of the temple improve their

linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also

available

Unfortunately women are not allowed to

enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this

is explained on a sign outside the wording of

which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in

the monastic boundary many precious things

incantations amulets and other holy objects

were buried over 500 years ago Entering

inside this area may deteriorated the place or

otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most

of the interior can be appreciated from the

doorway

Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous

for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged

Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai

Due to its being less well advertised than its

neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham

is often a more peaceful temple from which

to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang

Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist

Lent when the place was alive with worshippers

Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once

the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic

giants Following a visit from the Buddha the

giants decided to mend their ways stop eating

their neighbours and convert to Buddhism

For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and

offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the

templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally

constructed towards the end of the 7th century

Although the temple fell into disrepair over the

centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered

a chamber containing a number of Buddha

images The discovery led to the revitalisation of

this mountain top temple

The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are

guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured

sword-wielding warriors The courtyard

overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and

bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of

food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the

road leading to the temple

Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-

west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek

and easily accessible by car or taxi

Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai

was being established the name translates

as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably

because it was used to cast Buddha images for

its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The

entrance to the temple is through a small but

intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos

assembly hall is notable because it is one of the

only viharns of its type constructed solely from

teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a

superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock

astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference

to the king who once used the wooden hall as

his palace The gilded image features mythical

creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured

glass

The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite

from the busy road outside Wooden boxes

contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm

leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a

large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors

Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks

like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a

small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less

imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo

temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru

recommends a quick visit if you are passing

Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous

temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi

Luang

The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the

largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it

was damaged either by an earthquake in the

16th century or cannon fire from the guns

of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese

in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO

funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps

up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga

serpents and a group of five elephants (only the

one without a trunk or ears partially survived

whatever caused the structure to collapse the

others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi

was also once home to one of the most revered

religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald

Buddha Although the original now resides in

Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and

once again looks out over the city from a niche

on the east side of the structure

Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and

now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly

hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance

is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a

great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar

housed in a building at the base of the tree

Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although

one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few

alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed

Mae Hong Son

It is said that Mae Hong Son is the

most authentic and mountainous

province of Thailand For Thai Guru a

good reason to explore this province

side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai

province

Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of

Thailand The northern most part of this

province is at a distance of 924 km from

Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province

in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son

borders Myanmar On the south and east side it

borders Tak and Chiang Mai province

We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast

on the 108 road The scenery is woody and

mountainous so far so good And as we leave

the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek

for wildlife and beautiful landscapes

The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage

is that our average speed drops to less than

15 km hour No worries when you do trips

like these the clock stops and the only thing

on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning

landscapes that unfold before your eyes

The main road is well paved But as you might

understand we regularly go off road

This is the best way to come into contact with

locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo

While we are standing somewhere taking in the

beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a

falcon calling

A short walk through the forrest the sound

stops and we decide to sit down for some

water and well earned rest After a short while I

hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo

There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters

above us a white rumped falcon

Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras

it stays there and even when we start making

noises because we want to film it in flight it

takes itrsquos time

Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of

Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They

cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more

Of course they also have their own cattle And

walking through one of their small villages they

are very friendly and hospitable

It has to be said it is never smart to enter

a community or people with your camera

as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask

the people if they mind if you taking their

photograph or want to film their daily life

In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to

the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean

and offers a nice variety food on the terrace

with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city

where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists

Really nice to stroll down the walking street and

find food or a nice souvenir People are very

friendly as usual

From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae

Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an

average speed of 15 km hour

Halfway we jump out of the car into a river

Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to

keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn

but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around

without it

Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome

us and are gladly willing to allow us to make

photographs and film them

In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early

morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises

For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum

After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark

Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon

So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team

ChinatownBangkok

Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese

people in big cities around the world

Manhattan San Francisco Manilla

Paris and Boston have them and

more keep being officially recognised

in their role as historical and touristic

center every year Even places like

Dubai and Las Vegas have modern

day versions of this phenomenon

As soon as you pass under one of the famous

large red entrance arches you arrive in a

complete different world

A world that is paradise for photographers

A couple of the photographers in the Thai

Guru team decided to spend some time in the

Bangkok version of Chinatown

If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for

some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at

Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim

Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat

SLEEPY NANA dream destination

Relatively unknown and uncrowded

Nan has it all This gem of a province

hides an abundance of cultural and

natural attractions ancient temples

pristine forests rivers mountain

peaks but what strikes you most is

its omnipresent feel of an untroubled

authentic way of life

Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings

you this genuine feel in pictures and footage

For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of

Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant

nature and the nature of its people show

Thailand - as is often said before hordes of

tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas

it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan

managed to escape this proces but will it stay

that way Nan shares most of its border with

neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening

of the border and beyond towards China it is to

be expected that it will ultimately become an

important gateway for trade and tourism

Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town

and the countryside will enchant you and the natural

cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy

for at least a couple of days The town along the banks

of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base

to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night

life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous

temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue

influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The

great surroundings can best be explored by renting a

motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo

Much of the province is devoted to farming

Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still

being practised in areas of the province resulting

in a landscape where forests and fields alternate

Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside

of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature

peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich

natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the

province sees far fewer visitors than popular

neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You

can go white water rafting on the Wa River

along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim

National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay

overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes

Touring Nan

Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern

lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities

of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old

salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via

endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges

and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with

orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers

Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready

to be harvested broke through the green hills

giving a golden hue to the landscape

We encountered friendly villagers who worked

their way through the dry fields - meanwhile

singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to

supplement their meager incomes Despite their

hardship they showed us their heartwarming

hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes

with us

This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi

Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and

sparsely populated that we only passed two

cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos

difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand

nowadays

PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river

The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness

begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over

the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above

the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is

broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices

Then the carved image of a Naga becomes

visible above the water line followed by more

than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted

in red and gold colorshellip

During the year the remote provincial town

of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a

year for the annual spectacle of traditional

Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos

water artery The finals are held over two

days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos

banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite

team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in

Thailand yet relatively unknown

The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long

simple shelters where the massive dragon boats

are housed during the year Just once a year

they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos

most important sporting and social event The

event takes place right after the end of the

rainy season around early November when

water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at

their highest The colorful races are part of the

festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the

last day of Buddhist Lent in October

The narrow boats are made from massive

hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters

in length depending how many paddlers they

are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily

distinguishable by their use of bright colors and

mythical designs in the traditional local style

The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of

each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting

only the good ones to participate in their race

How to get there

Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is

connected by plane and by bus to the rest of

the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan

Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice

each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to

Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to

Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on

the service

Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan

(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8

hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)

The contestants of the races are classified into

three categories mdashlarge medium and small

boats Depending on their length each boat can

accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers

sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the

same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously

against the current to the frantic beating of a

drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern

The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying

their attempt to reach the finish line first and

the paddles churning up the river creates a

spectacular atmosphere

Son

g K

ran

in

Ch

ian

g M

ai

Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of

the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down

in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The

days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing

steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the

hot months of April and May The stifling mid-

day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out

unless necessary The buzz around town about

some festival called Song Kran is starting to

increase an underlying excitement rising

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
  2. Button 4
  3. Button 9
  4. previous
  5. next
Page 40: Thaiguru issue10

Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous

for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged

Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai

Due to its being less well advertised than its

neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham

is often a more peaceful temple from which

to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang

Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist

Lent when the place was alive with worshippers

Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once

the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic

giants Following a visit from the Buddha the

giants decided to mend their ways stop eating

their neighbours and convert to Buddhism

For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and

offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the

templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally

constructed towards the end of the 7th century

Although the temple fell into disrepair over the

centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered

a chamber containing a number of Buddha

images The discovery led to the revitalisation of

this mountain top temple

The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are

guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured

sword-wielding warriors The courtyard

overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and

bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of

food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the

road leading to the temple

Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-

west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek

and easily accessible by car or taxi

Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai

was being established the name translates

as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably

because it was used to cast Buddha images for

its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The

entrance to the temple is through a small but

intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos

assembly hall is notable because it is one of the

only viharns of its type constructed solely from

teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a

superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock

astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference

to the king who once used the wooden hall as

his palace The gilded image features mythical

creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured

glass

The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite

from the busy road outside Wooden boxes

contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm

leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a

large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors

Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks

like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a

small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less

imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo

temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru

recommends a quick visit if you are passing

Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous

temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi

Luang

The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the

largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it

was damaged either by an earthquake in the

16th century or cannon fire from the guns

of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese

in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO

funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps

up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga

serpents and a group of five elephants (only the

one without a trunk or ears partially survived

whatever caused the structure to collapse the

others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi

was also once home to one of the most revered

religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald

Buddha Although the original now resides in

Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and

once again looks out over the city from a niche

on the east side of the structure

Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and

now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly

hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance

is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a

great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar

housed in a building at the base of the tree

Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although

one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few

alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed

Mae Hong Son

It is said that Mae Hong Son is the

most authentic and mountainous

province of Thailand For Thai Guru a

good reason to explore this province

side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai

province

Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of

Thailand The northern most part of this

province is at a distance of 924 km from

Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province

in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son

borders Myanmar On the south and east side it

borders Tak and Chiang Mai province

We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast

on the 108 road The scenery is woody and

mountainous so far so good And as we leave

the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek

for wildlife and beautiful landscapes

The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage

is that our average speed drops to less than

15 km hour No worries when you do trips

like these the clock stops and the only thing

on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning

landscapes that unfold before your eyes

The main road is well paved But as you might

understand we regularly go off road

This is the best way to come into contact with

locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo

While we are standing somewhere taking in the

beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a

falcon calling

A short walk through the forrest the sound

stops and we decide to sit down for some

water and well earned rest After a short while I

hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo

There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters

above us a white rumped falcon

Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras

it stays there and even when we start making

noises because we want to film it in flight it

takes itrsquos time

Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of

Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They

cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more

Of course they also have their own cattle And

walking through one of their small villages they

are very friendly and hospitable

It has to be said it is never smart to enter

a community or people with your camera

as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask

the people if they mind if you taking their

photograph or want to film their daily life

In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to

the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean

and offers a nice variety food on the terrace

with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city

where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists

Really nice to stroll down the walking street and

find food or a nice souvenir People are very

friendly as usual

From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae

Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an

average speed of 15 km hour

Halfway we jump out of the car into a river

Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to

keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn

but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around

without it

Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome

us and are gladly willing to allow us to make

photographs and film them

In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early

morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises

For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum

After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark

Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon

So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team

ChinatownBangkok

Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese

people in big cities around the world

Manhattan San Francisco Manilla

Paris and Boston have them and

more keep being officially recognised

in their role as historical and touristic

center every year Even places like

Dubai and Las Vegas have modern

day versions of this phenomenon

As soon as you pass under one of the famous

large red entrance arches you arrive in a

complete different world

A world that is paradise for photographers

A couple of the photographers in the Thai

Guru team decided to spend some time in the

Bangkok version of Chinatown

If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for

some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at

Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim

Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat

SLEEPY NANA dream destination

Relatively unknown and uncrowded

Nan has it all This gem of a province

hides an abundance of cultural and

natural attractions ancient temples

pristine forests rivers mountain

peaks but what strikes you most is

its omnipresent feel of an untroubled

authentic way of life

Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings

you this genuine feel in pictures and footage

For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of

Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant

nature and the nature of its people show

Thailand - as is often said before hordes of

tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas

it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan

managed to escape this proces but will it stay

that way Nan shares most of its border with

neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening

of the border and beyond towards China it is to

be expected that it will ultimately become an

important gateway for trade and tourism

Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town

and the countryside will enchant you and the natural

cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy

for at least a couple of days The town along the banks

of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base

to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night

life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous

temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue

influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The

great surroundings can best be explored by renting a

motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo

Much of the province is devoted to farming

Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still

being practised in areas of the province resulting

in a landscape where forests and fields alternate

Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside

of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature

peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich

natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the

province sees far fewer visitors than popular

neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You

can go white water rafting on the Wa River

along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim

National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay

overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes

Touring Nan

Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern

lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities

of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old

salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via

endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges

and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with

orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers

Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready

to be harvested broke through the green hills

giving a golden hue to the landscape

We encountered friendly villagers who worked

their way through the dry fields - meanwhile

singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to

supplement their meager incomes Despite their

hardship they showed us their heartwarming

hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes

with us

This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi

Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and

sparsely populated that we only passed two

cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos

difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand

nowadays

PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river

The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness

begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over

the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above

the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is

broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices

Then the carved image of a Naga becomes

visible above the water line followed by more

than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted

in red and gold colorshellip

During the year the remote provincial town

of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a

year for the annual spectacle of traditional

Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos

water artery The finals are held over two

days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos

banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite

team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in

Thailand yet relatively unknown

The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long

simple shelters where the massive dragon boats

are housed during the year Just once a year

they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos

most important sporting and social event The

event takes place right after the end of the

rainy season around early November when

water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at

their highest The colorful races are part of the

festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the

last day of Buddhist Lent in October

The narrow boats are made from massive

hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters

in length depending how many paddlers they

are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily

distinguishable by their use of bright colors and

mythical designs in the traditional local style

The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of

each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting

only the good ones to participate in their race

How to get there

Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is

connected by plane and by bus to the rest of

the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan

Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice

each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to

Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to

Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on

the service

Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan

(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8

hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)

The contestants of the races are classified into

three categories mdashlarge medium and small

boats Depending on their length each boat can

accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers

sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the

same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously

against the current to the frantic beating of a

drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern

The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying

their attempt to reach the finish line first and

the paddles churning up the river creates a

spectacular atmosphere

Son

g K

ran

in

Ch

ian

g M

ai

Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of

the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down

in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The

days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing

steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the

hot months of April and May The stifling mid-

day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out

unless necessary The buzz around town about

some festival called Song Kran is starting to

increase an underlying excitement rising

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
  2. Button 4
  3. Button 9
  4. previous
  5. next
Page 41: Thaiguru issue10

The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are

guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured

sword-wielding warriors The courtyard

overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and

bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of

food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the

road leading to the temple

Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-

west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek

and easily accessible by car or taxi

Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai

was being established the name translates

as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably

because it was used to cast Buddha images for

its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The

entrance to the temple is through a small but

intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos

assembly hall is notable because it is one of the

only viharns of its type constructed solely from

teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a

superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock

astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference

to the king who once used the wooden hall as

his palace The gilded image features mythical

creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured

glass

The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite

from the busy road outside Wooden boxes

contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm

leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a

large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors

Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks

like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a

small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less

imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo

temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru

recommends a quick visit if you are passing

Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous

temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi

Luang

The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the

largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it

was damaged either by an earthquake in the

16th century or cannon fire from the guns

of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese

in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO

funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps

up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga

serpents and a group of five elephants (only the

one without a trunk or ears partially survived

whatever caused the structure to collapse the

others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi

was also once home to one of the most revered

religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald

Buddha Although the original now resides in

Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and

once again looks out over the city from a niche

on the east side of the structure

Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and

now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly

hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance

is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a

great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar

housed in a building at the base of the tree

Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although

one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few

alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed

Mae Hong Son

It is said that Mae Hong Son is the

most authentic and mountainous

province of Thailand For Thai Guru a

good reason to explore this province

side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai

province

Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of

Thailand The northern most part of this

province is at a distance of 924 km from

Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province

in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son

borders Myanmar On the south and east side it

borders Tak and Chiang Mai province

We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast

on the 108 road The scenery is woody and

mountainous so far so good And as we leave

the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek

for wildlife and beautiful landscapes

The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage

is that our average speed drops to less than

15 km hour No worries when you do trips

like these the clock stops and the only thing

on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning

landscapes that unfold before your eyes

The main road is well paved But as you might

understand we regularly go off road

This is the best way to come into contact with

locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo

While we are standing somewhere taking in the

beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a

falcon calling

A short walk through the forrest the sound

stops and we decide to sit down for some

water and well earned rest After a short while I

hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo

There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters

above us a white rumped falcon

Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras

it stays there and even when we start making

noises because we want to film it in flight it

takes itrsquos time

Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of

Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They

cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more

Of course they also have their own cattle And

walking through one of their small villages they

are very friendly and hospitable

It has to be said it is never smart to enter

a community or people with your camera

as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask

the people if they mind if you taking their

photograph or want to film their daily life

In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to

the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean

and offers a nice variety food on the terrace

with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city

where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists

Really nice to stroll down the walking street and

find food or a nice souvenir People are very

friendly as usual

From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae

Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an

average speed of 15 km hour

Halfway we jump out of the car into a river

Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to

keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn

but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around

without it

Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome

us and are gladly willing to allow us to make

photographs and film them

In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early

morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises

For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum

After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark

Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon

So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team

ChinatownBangkok

Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese

people in big cities around the world

Manhattan San Francisco Manilla

Paris and Boston have them and

more keep being officially recognised

in their role as historical and touristic

center every year Even places like

Dubai and Las Vegas have modern

day versions of this phenomenon

As soon as you pass under one of the famous

large red entrance arches you arrive in a

complete different world

A world that is paradise for photographers

A couple of the photographers in the Thai

Guru team decided to spend some time in the

Bangkok version of Chinatown

If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for

some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at

Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim

Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat

SLEEPY NANA dream destination

Relatively unknown and uncrowded

Nan has it all This gem of a province

hides an abundance of cultural and

natural attractions ancient temples

pristine forests rivers mountain

peaks but what strikes you most is

its omnipresent feel of an untroubled

authentic way of life

Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings

you this genuine feel in pictures and footage

For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of

Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant

nature and the nature of its people show

Thailand - as is often said before hordes of

tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas

it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan

managed to escape this proces but will it stay

that way Nan shares most of its border with

neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening

of the border and beyond towards China it is to

be expected that it will ultimately become an

important gateway for trade and tourism

Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town

and the countryside will enchant you and the natural

cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy

for at least a couple of days The town along the banks

of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base

to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night

life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous

temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue

influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The

great surroundings can best be explored by renting a

motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo

Much of the province is devoted to farming

Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still

being practised in areas of the province resulting

in a landscape where forests and fields alternate

Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside

of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature

peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich

natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the

province sees far fewer visitors than popular

neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You

can go white water rafting on the Wa River

along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim

National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay

overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes

Touring Nan

Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern

lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities

of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old

salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via

endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges

and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with

orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers

Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready

to be harvested broke through the green hills

giving a golden hue to the landscape

We encountered friendly villagers who worked

their way through the dry fields - meanwhile

singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to

supplement their meager incomes Despite their

hardship they showed us their heartwarming

hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes

with us

This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi

Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and

sparsely populated that we only passed two

cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos

difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand

nowadays

PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river

The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness

begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over

the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above

the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is

broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices

Then the carved image of a Naga becomes

visible above the water line followed by more

than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted

in red and gold colorshellip

During the year the remote provincial town

of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a

year for the annual spectacle of traditional

Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos

water artery The finals are held over two

days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos

banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite

team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in

Thailand yet relatively unknown

The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long

simple shelters where the massive dragon boats

are housed during the year Just once a year

they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos

most important sporting and social event The

event takes place right after the end of the

rainy season around early November when

water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at

their highest The colorful races are part of the

festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the

last day of Buddhist Lent in October

The narrow boats are made from massive

hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters

in length depending how many paddlers they

are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily

distinguishable by their use of bright colors and

mythical designs in the traditional local style

The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of

each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting

only the good ones to participate in their race

How to get there

Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is

connected by plane and by bus to the rest of

the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan

Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice

each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to

Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to

Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on

the service

Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan

(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8

hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)

The contestants of the races are classified into

three categories mdashlarge medium and small

boats Depending on their length each boat can

accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers

sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the

same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously

against the current to the frantic beating of a

drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern

The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying

their attempt to reach the finish line first and

the paddles churning up the river creates a

spectacular atmosphere

Son

g K

ran

in

Ch

ian

g M

ai

Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of

the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down

in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The

days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing

steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the

hot months of April and May The stifling mid-

day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out

unless necessary The buzz around town about

some festival called Song Kran is starting to

increase an underlying excitement rising

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
  2. Button 4
  3. Button 9
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  5. next
Page 42: Thaiguru issue10

Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai

was being established the name translates

as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably

because it was used to cast Buddha images for

its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The

entrance to the temple is through a small but

intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos

assembly hall is notable because it is one of the

only viharns of its type constructed solely from

teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a

superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock

astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference

to the king who once used the wooden hall as

his palace The gilded image features mythical

creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured

glass

The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite

from the busy road outside Wooden boxes

contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm

leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a

large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors

Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks

like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a

small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less

imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo

temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru

recommends a quick visit if you are passing

Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous

temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi

Luang

The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the

largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it

was damaged either by an earthquake in the

16th century or cannon fire from the guns

of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese

in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO

funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps

up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga

serpents and a group of five elephants (only the

one without a trunk or ears partially survived

whatever caused the structure to collapse the

others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi

was also once home to one of the most revered

religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald

Buddha Although the original now resides in

Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and

once again looks out over the city from a niche

on the east side of the structure

Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and

now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly

hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance

is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a

great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar

housed in a building at the base of the tree

Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although

one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few

alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed

Mae Hong Son

It is said that Mae Hong Son is the

most authentic and mountainous

province of Thailand For Thai Guru a

good reason to explore this province

side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai

province

Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of

Thailand The northern most part of this

province is at a distance of 924 km from

Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province

in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son

borders Myanmar On the south and east side it

borders Tak and Chiang Mai province

We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast

on the 108 road The scenery is woody and

mountainous so far so good And as we leave

the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek

for wildlife and beautiful landscapes

The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage

is that our average speed drops to less than

15 km hour No worries when you do trips

like these the clock stops and the only thing

on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning

landscapes that unfold before your eyes

The main road is well paved But as you might

understand we regularly go off road

This is the best way to come into contact with

locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo

While we are standing somewhere taking in the

beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a

falcon calling

A short walk through the forrest the sound

stops and we decide to sit down for some

water and well earned rest After a short while I

hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo

There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters

above us a white rumped falcon

Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras

it stays there and even when we start making

noises because we want to film it in flight it

takes itrsquos time

Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of

Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They

cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more

Of course they also have their own cattle And

walking through one of their small villages they

are very friendly and hospitable

It has to be said it is never smart to enter

a community or people with your camera

as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask

the people if they mind if you taking their

photograph or want to film their daily life

In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to

the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean

and offers a nice variety food on the terrace

with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city

where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists

Really nice to stroll down the walking street and

find food or a nice souvenir People are very

friendly as usual

From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae

Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an

average speed of 15 km hour

Halfway we jump out of the car into a river

Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to

keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn

but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around

without it

Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome

us and are gladly willing to allow us to make

photographs and film them

In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early

morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises

For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum

After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark

Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon

So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team

ChinatownBangkok

Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese

people in big cities around the world

Manhattan San Francisco Manilla

Paris and Boston have them and

more keep being officially recognised

in their role as historical and touristic

center every year Even places like

Dubai and Las Vegas have modern

day versions of this phenomenon

As soon as you pass under one of the famous

large red entrance arches you arrive in a

complete different world

A world that is paradise for photographers

A couple of the photographers in the Thai

Guru team decided to spend some time in the

Bangkok version of Chinatown

If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for

some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at

Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim

Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat

SLEEPY NANA dream destination

Relatively unknown and uncrowded

Nan has it all This gem of a province

hides an abundance of cultural and

natural attractions ancient temples

pristine forests rivers mountain

peaks but what strikes you most is

its omnipresent feel of an untroubled

authentic way of life

Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings

you this genuine feel in pictures and footage

For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of

Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant

nature and the nature of its people show

Thailand - as is often said before hordes of

tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas

it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan

managed to escape this proces but will it stay

that way Nan shares most of its border with

neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening

of the border and beyond towards China it is to

be expected that it will ultimately become an

important gateway for trade and tourism

Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town

and the countryside will enchant you and the natural

cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy

for at least a couple of days The town along the banks

of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base

to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night

life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous

temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue

influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The

great surroundings can best be explored by renting a

motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo

Much of the province is devoted to farming

Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still

being practised in areas of the province resulting

in a landscape where forests and fields alternate

Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside

of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature

peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich

natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the

province sees far fewer visitors than popular

neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You

can go white water rafting on the Wa River

along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim

National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay

overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes

Touring Nan

Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern

lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities

of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old

salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via

endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges

and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with

orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers

Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready

to be harvested broke through the green hills

giving a golden hue to the landscape

We encountered friendly villagers who worked

their way through the dry fields - meanwhile

singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to

supplement their meager incomes Despite their

hardship they showed us their heartwarming

hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes

with us

This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi

Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and

sparsely populated that we only passed two

cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos

difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand

nowadays

PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river

The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness

begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over

the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above

the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is

broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices

Then the carved image of a Naga becomes

visible above the water line followed by more

than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted

in red and gold colorshellip

During the year the remote provincial town

of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a

year for the annual spectacle of traditional

Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos

water artery The finals are held over two

days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos

banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite

team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in

Thailand yet relatively unknown

The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long

simple shelters where the massive dragon boats

are housed during the year Just once a year

they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos

most important sporting and social event The

event takes place right after the end of the

rainy season around early November when

water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at

their highest The colorful races are part of the

festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the

last day of Buddhist Lent in October

The narrow boats are made from massive

hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters

in length depending how many paddlers they

are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily

distinguishable by their use of bright colors and

mythical designs in the traditional local style

The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of

each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting

only the good ones to participate in their race

How to get there

Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is

connected by plane and by bus to the rest of

the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan

Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice

each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to

Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to

Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on

the service

Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan

(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8

hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)

The contestants of the races are classified into

three categories mdashlarge medium and small

boats Depending on their length each boat can

accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers

sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the

same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously

against the current to the frantic beating of a

drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern

The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying

their attempt to reach the finish line first and

the paddles churning up the river creates a

spectacular atmosphere

Son

g K

ran

in

Ch

ian

g M

ai

Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of

the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down

in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The

days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing

steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the

hot months of April and May The stifling mid-

day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out

unless necessary The buzz around town about

some festival called Song Kran is starting to

increase an underlying excitement rising

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
  2. Button 4
  3. Button 9
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  5. next
Page 43: Thaiguru issue10

Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous

temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi

Luang

The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the

largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it

was damaged either by an earthquake in the

16th century or cannon fire from the guns

of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese

in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO

funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps

up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga

serpents and a group of five elephants (only the

one without a trunk or ears partially survived

whatever caused the structure to collapse the

others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi

was also once home to one of the most revered

religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald

Buddha Although the original now resides in

Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and

once again looks out over the city from a niche

on the east side of the structure

Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and

now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly

hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance

is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a

great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar

housed in a building at the base of the tree

Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although

one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few

alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed

Mae Hong Son

It is said that Mae Hong Son is the

most authentic and mountainous

province of Thailand For Thai Guru a

good reason to explore this province

side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai

province

Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of

Thailand The northern most part of this

province is at a distance of 924 km from

Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province

in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son

borders Myanmar On the south and east side it

borders Tak and Chiang Mai province

We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast

on the 108 road The scenery is woody and

mountainous so far so good And as we leave

the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek

for wildlife and beautiful landscapes

The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage

is that our average speed drops to less than

15 km hour No worries when you do trips

like these the clock stops and the only thing

on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning

landscapes that unfold before your eyes

The main road is well paved But as you might

understand we regularly go off road

This is the best way to come into contact with

locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo

While we are standing somewhere taking in the

beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a

falcon calling

A short walk through the forrest the sound

stops and we decide to sit down for some

water and well earned rest After a short while I

hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo

There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters

above us a white rumped falcon

Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras

it stays there and even when we start making

noises because we want to film it in flight it

takes itrsquos time

Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of

Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They

cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more

Of course they also have their own cattle And

walking through one of their small villages they

are very friendly and hospitable

It has to be said it is never smart to enter

a community or people with your camera

as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask

the people if they mind if you taking their

photograph or want to film their daily life

In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to

the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean

and offers a nice variety food on the terrace

with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city

where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists

Really nice to stroll down the walking street and

find food or a nice souvenir People are very

friendly as usual

From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae

Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an

average speed of 15 km hour

Halfway we jump out of the car into a river

Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to

keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn

but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around

without it

Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome

us and are gladly willing to allow us to make

photographs and film them

In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early

morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises

For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum

After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark

Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon

So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team

ChinatownBangkok

Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese

people in big cities around the world

Manhattan San Francisco Manilla

Paris and Boston have them and

more keep being officially recognised

in their role as historical and touristic

center every year Even places like

Dubai and Las Vegas have modern

day versions of this phenomenon

As soon as you pass under one of the famous

large red entrance arches you arrive in a

complete different world

A world that is paradise for photographers

A couple of the photographers in the Thai

Guru team decided to spend some time in the

Bangkok version of Chinatown

If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for

some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at

Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim

Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat

SLEEPY NANA dream destination

Relatively unknown and uncrowded

Nan has it all This gem of a province

hides an abundance of cultural and

natural attractions ancient temples

pristine forests rivers mountain

peaks but what strikes you most is

its omnipresent feel of an untroubled

authentic way of life

Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings

you this genuine feel in pictures and footage

For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of

Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant

nature and the nature of its people show

Thailand - as is often said before hordes of

tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas

it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan

managed to escape this proces but will it stay

that way Nan shares most of its border with

neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening

of the border and beyond towards China it is to

be expected that it will ultimately become an

important gateway for trade and tourism

Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town

and the countryside will enchant you and the natural

cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy

for at least a couple of days The town along the banks

of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base

to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night

life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous

temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue

influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The

great surroundings can best be explored by renting a

motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo

Much of the province is devoted to farming

Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still

being practised in areas of the province resulting

in a landscape where forests and fields alternate

Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside

of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature

peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich

natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the

province sees far fewer visitors than popular

neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You

can go white water rafting on the Wa River

along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim

National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay

overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes

Touring Nan

Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern

lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities

of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old

salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via

endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges

and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with

orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers

Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready

to be harvested broke through the green hills

giving a golden hue to the landscape

We encountered friendly villagers who worked

their way through the dry fields - meanwhile

singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to

supplement their meager incomes Despite their

hardship they showed us their heartwarming

hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes

with us

This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi

Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and

sparsely populated that we only passed two

cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos

difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand

nowadays

PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river

The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness

begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over

the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above

the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is

broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices

Then the carved image of a Naga becomes

visible above the water line followed by more

than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted

in red and gold colorshellip

During the year the remote provincial town

of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a

year for the annual spectacle of traditional

Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos

water artery The finals are held over two

days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos

banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite

team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in

Thailand yet relatively unknown

The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long

simple shelters where the massive dragon boats

are housed during the year Just once a year

they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos

most important sporting and social event The

event takes place right after the end of the

rainy season around early November when

water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at

their highest The colorful races are part of the

festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the

last day of Buddhist Lent in October

The narrow boats are made from massive

hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters

in length depending how many paddlers they

are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily

distinguishable by their use of bright colors and

mythical designs in the traditional local style

The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of

each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting

only the good ones to participate in their race

How to get there

Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is

connected by plane and by bus to the rest of

the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan

Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice

each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to

Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to

Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on

the service

Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan

(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8

hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)

The contestants of the races are classified into

three categories mdashlarge medium and small

boats Depending on their length each boat can

accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers

sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the

same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously

against the current to the frantic beating of a

drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern

The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying

their attempt to reach the finish line first and

the paddles churning up the river creates a

spectacular atmosphere

Son

g K

ran

in

Ch

ian

g M

ai

Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of

the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down

in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The

days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing

steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the

hot months of April and May The stifling mid-

day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out

unless necessary The buzz around town about

some festival called Song Kran is starting to

increase an underlying excitement rising

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
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  3. Button 9
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  5. next
Page 44: Thaiguru issue10

Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and

now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly

hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance

is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a

great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar

housed in a building at the base of the tree

Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although

one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few

alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed

Mae Hong Son

It is said that Mae Hong Son is the

most authentic and mountainous

province of Thailand For Thai Guru a

good reason to explore this province

side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai

province

Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of

Thailand The northern most part of this

province is at a distance of 924 km from

Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province

in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son

borders Myanmar On the south and east side it

borders Tak and Chiang Mai province

We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast

on the 108 road The scenery is woody and

mountainous so far so good And as we leave

the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek

for wildlife and beautiful landscapes

The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage

is that our average speed drops to less than

15 km hour No worries when you do trips

like these the clock stops and the only thing

on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning

landscapes that unfold before your eyes

The main road is well paved But as you might

understand we regularly go off road

This is the best way to come into contact with

locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo

While we are standing somewhere taking in the

beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a

falcon calling

A short walk through the forrest the sound

stops and we decide to sit down for some

water and well earned rest After a short while I

hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo

There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters

above us a white rumped falcon

Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras

it stays there and even when we start making

noises because we want to film it in flight it

takes itrsquos time

Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of

Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They

cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more

Of course they also have their own cattle And

walking through one of their small villages they

are very friendly and hospitable

It has to be said it is never smart to enter

a community or people with your camera

as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask

the people if they mind if you taking their

photograph or want to film their daily life

In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to

the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean

and offers a nice variety food on the terrace

with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city

where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists

Really nice to stroll down the walking street and

find food or a nice souvenir People are very

friendly as usual

From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae

Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an

average speed of 15 km hour

Halfway we jump out of the car into a river

Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to

keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn

but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around

without it

Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome

us and are gladly willing to allow us to make

photographs and film them

In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early

morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises

For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum

After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark

Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon

So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team

ChinatownBangkok

Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese

people in big cities around the world

Manhattan San Francisco Manilla

Paris and Boston have them and

more keep being officially recognised

in their role as historical and touristic

center every year Even places like

Dubai and Las Vegas have modern

day versions of this phenomenon

As soon as you pass under one of the famous

large red entrance arches you arrive in a

complete different world

A world that is paradise for photographers

A couple of the photographers in the Thai

Guru team decided to spend some time in the

Bangkok version of Chinatown

If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for

some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at

Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim

Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat

SLEEPY NANA dream destination

Relatively unknown and uncrowded

Nan has it all This gem of a province

hides an abundance of cultural and

natural attractions ancient temples

pristine forests rivers mountain

peaks but what strikes you most is

its omnipresent feel of an untroubled

authentic way of life

Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings

you this genuine feel in pictures and footage

For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of

Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant

nature and the nature of its people show

Thailand - as is often said before hordes of

tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas

it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan

managed to escape this proces but will it stay

that way Nan shares most of its border with

neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening

of the border and beyond towards China it is to

be expected that it will ultimately become an

important gateway for trade and tourism

Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town

and the countryside will enchant you and the natural

cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy

for at least a couple of days The town along the banks

of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base

to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night

life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous

temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue

influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The

great surroundings can best be explored by renting a

motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo

Much of the province is devoted to farming

Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still

being practised in areas of the province resulting

in a landscape where forests and fields alternate

Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside

of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature

peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich

natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the

province sees far fewer visitors than popular

neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You

can go white water rafting on the Wa River

along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim

National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay

overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes

Touring Nan

Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern

lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities

of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old

salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via

endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges

and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with

orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers

Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready

to be harvested broke through the green hills

giving a golden hue to the landscape

We encountered friendly villagers who worked

their way through the dry fields - meanwhile

singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to

supplement their meager incomes Despite their

hardship they showed us their heartwarming

hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes

with us

This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi

Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and

sparsely populated that we only passed two

cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos

difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand

nowadays

PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river

The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness

begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over

the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above

the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is

broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices

Then the carved image of a Naga becomes

visible above the water line followed by more

than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted

in red and gold colorshellip

During the year the remote provincial town

of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a

year for the annual spectacle of traditional

Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos

water artery The finals are held over two

days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos

banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite

team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in

Thailand yet relatively unknown

The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long

simple shelters where the massive dragon boats

are housed during the year Just once a year

they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos

most important sporting and social event The

event takes place right after the end of the

rainy season around early November when

water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at

their highest The colorful races are part of the

festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the

last day of Buddhist Lent in October

The narrow boats are made from massive

hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters

in length depending how many paddlers they

are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily

distinguishable by their use of bright colors and

mythical designs in the traditional local style

The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of

each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting

only the good ones to participate in their race

How to get there

Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is

connected by plane and by bus to the rest of

the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan

Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice

each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to

Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to

Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on

the service

Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan

(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8

hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)

The contestants of the races are classified into

three categories mdashlarge medium and small

boats Depending on their length each boat can

accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers

sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the

same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously

against the current to the frantic beating of a

drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern

The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying

their attempt to reach the finish line first and

the paddles churning up the river creates a

spectacular atmosphere

Son

g K

ran

in

Ch

ian

g M

ai

Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of

the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down

in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The

days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing

steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the

hot months of April and May The stifling mid-

day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out

unless necessary The buzz around town about

some festival called Song Kran is starting to

increase an underlying excitement rising

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
  2. Button 4
  3. Button 9
  4. previous
  5. next
Page 45: Thaiguru issue10

Mae Hong Son

It is said that Mae Hong Son is the

most authentic and mountainous

province of Thailand For Thai Guru a

good reason to explore this province

side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai

province

Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of

Thailand The northern most part of this

province is at a distance of 924 km from

Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province

in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son

borders Myanmar On the south and east side it

borders Tak and Chiang Mai province

We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast

on the 108 road The scenery is woody and

mountainous so far so good And as we leave

the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek

for wildlife and beautiful landscapes

The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage

is that our average speed drops to less than

15 km hour No worries when you do trips

like these the clock stops and the only thing

on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning

landscapes that unfold before your eyes

The main road is well paved But as you might

understand we regularly go off road

This is the best way to come into contact with

locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo

While we are standing somewhere taking in the

beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a

falcon calling

A short walk through the forrest the sound

stops and we decide to sit down for some

water and well earned rest After a short while I

hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo

There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters

above us a white rumped falcon

Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras

it stays there and even when we start making

noises because we want to film it in flight it

takes itrsquos time

Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of

Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They

cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more

Of course they also have their own cattle And

walking through one of their small villages they

are very friendly and hospitable

It has to be said it is never smart to enter

a community or people with your camera

as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask

the people if they mind if you taking their

photograph or want to film their daily life

In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to

the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean

and offers a nice variety food on the terrace

with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city

where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists

Really nice to stroll down the walking street and

find food or a nice souvenir People are very

friendly as usual

From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae

Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an

average speed of 15 km hour

Halfway we jump out of the car into a river

Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to

keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn

but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around

without it

Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome

us and are gladly willing to allow us to make

photographs and film them

In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early

morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises

For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum

After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark

Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon

So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team

ChinatownBangkok

Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese

people in big cities around the world

Manhattan San Francisco Manilla

Paris and Boston have them and

more keep being officially recognised

in their role as historical and touristic

center every year Even places like

Dubai and Las Vegas have modern

day versions of this phenomenon

As soon as you pass under one of the famous

large red entrance arches you arrive in a

complete different world

A world that is paradise for photographers

A couple of the photographers in the Thai

Guru team decided to spend some time in the

Bangkok version of Chinatown

If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for

some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at

Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim

Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat

SLEEPY NANA dream destination

Relatively unknown and uncrowded

Nan has it all This gem of a province

hides an abundance of cultural and

natural attractions ancient temples

pristine forests rivers mountain

peaks but what strikes you most is

its omnipresent feel of an untroubled

authentic way of life

Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings

you this genuine feel in pictures and footage

For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of

Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant

nature and the nature of its people show

Thailand - as is often said before hordes of

tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas

it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan

managed to escape this proces but will it stay

that way Nan shares most of its border with

neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening

of the border and beyond towards China it is to

be expected that it will ultimately become an

important gateway for trade and tourism

Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town

and the countryside will enchant you and the natural

cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy

for at least a couple of days The town along the banks

of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base

to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night

life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous

temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue

influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The

great surroundings can best be explored by renting a

motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo

Much of the province is devoted to farming

Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still

being practised in areas of the province resulting

in a landscape where forests and fields alternate

Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside

of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature

peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich

natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the

province sees far fewer visitors than popular

neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You

can go white water rafting on the Wa River

along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim

National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay

overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes

Touring Nan

Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern

lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities

of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old

salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via

endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges

and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with

orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers

Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready

to be harvested broke through the green hills

giving a golden hue to the landscape

We encountered friendly villagers who worked

their way through the dry fields - meanwhile

singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to

supplement their meager incomes Despite their

hardship they showed us their heartwarming

hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes

with us

This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi

Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and

sparsely populated that we only passed two

cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos

difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand

nowadays

PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river

The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness

begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over

the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above

the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is

broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices

Then the carved image of a Naga becomes

visible above the water line followed by more

than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted

in red and gold colorshellip

During the year the remote provincial town

of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a

year for the annual spectacle of traditional

Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos

water artery The finals are held over two

days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos

banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite

team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in

Thailand yet relatively unknown

The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long

simple shelters where the massive dragon boats

are housed during the year Just once a year

they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos

most important sporting and social event The

event takes place right after the end of the

rainy season around early November when

water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at

their highest The colorful races are part of the

festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the

last day of Buddhist Lent in October

The narrow boats are made from massive

hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters

in length depending how many paddlers they

are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily

distinguishable by their use of bright colors and

mythical designs in the traditional local style

The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of

each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting

only the good ones to participate in their race

How to get there

Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is

connected by plane and by bus to the rest of

the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan

Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice

each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to

Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to

Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on

the service

Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan

(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8

hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)

The contestants of the races are classified into

three categories mdashlarge medium and small

boats Depending on their length each boat can

accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers

sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the

same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously

against the current to the frantic beating of a

drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern

The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying

their attempt to reach the finish line first and

the paddles churning up the river creates a

spectacular atmosphere

Son

g K

ran

in

Ch

ian

g M

ai

Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of

the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down

in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The

days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing

steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the

hot months of April and May The stifling mid-

day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out

unless necessary The buzz around town about

some festival called Song Kran is starting to

increase an underlying excitement rising

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
  2. Button 4
  3. Button 9
  4. previous
  5. next
Page 46: Thaiguru issue10

It is said that Mae Hong Son is the

most authentic and mountainous

province of Thailand For Thai Guru a

good reason to explore this province

side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai

province

Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of

Thailand The northern most part of this

province is at a distance of 924 km from

Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province

in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son

borders Myanmar On the south and east side it

borders Tak and Chiang Mai province

We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast

on the 108 road The scenery is woody and

mountainous so far so good And as we leave

the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek

for wildlife and beautiful landscapes

The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage

is that our average speed drops to less than

15 km hour No worries when you do trips

like these the clock stops and the only thing

on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning

landscapes that unfold before your eyes

The main road is well paved But as you might

understand we regularly go off road

This is the best way to come into contact with

locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo

While we are standing somewhere taking in the

beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a

falcon calling

A short walk through the forrest the sound

stops and we decide to sit down for some

water and well earned rest After a short while I

hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo

There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters

above us a white rumped falcon

Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras

it stays there and even when we start making

noises because we want to film it in flight it

takes itrsquos time

Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of

Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They

cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more

Of course they also have their own cattle And

walking through one of their small villages they

are very friendly and hospitable

It has to be said it is never smart to enter

a community or people with your camera

as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask

the people if they mind if you taking their

photograph or want to film their daily life

In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to

the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean

and offers a nice variety food on the terrace

with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city

where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists

Really nice to stroll down the walking street and

find food or a nice souvenir People are very

friendly as usual

From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae

Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an

average speed of 15 km hour

Halfway we jump out of the car into a river

Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to

keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn

but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around

without it

Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome

us and are gladly willing to allow us to make

photographs and film them

In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early

morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises

For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum

After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark

Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon

So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team

ChinatownBangkok

Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese

people in big cities around the world

Manhattan San Francisco Manilla

Paris and Boston have them and

more keep being officially recognised

in their role as historical and touristic

center every year Even places like

Dubai and Las Vegas have modern

day versions of this phenomenon

As soon as you pass under one of the famous

large red entrance arches you arrive in a

complete different world

A world that is paradise for photographers

A couple of the photographers in the Thai

Guru team decided to spend some time in the

Bangkok version of Chinatown

If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for

some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at

Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim

Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat

SLEEPY NANA dream destination

Relatively unknown and uncrowded

Nan has it all This gem of a province

hides an abundance of cultural and

natural attractions ancient temples

pristine forests rivers mountain

peaks but what strikes you most is

its omnipresent feel of an untroubled

authentic way of life

Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings

you this genuine feel in pictures and footage

For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of

Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant

nature and the nature of its people show

Thailand - as is often said before hordes of

tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas

it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan

managed to escape this proces but will it stay

that way Nan shares most of its border with

neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening

of the border and beyond towards China it is to

be expected that it will ultimately become an

important gateway for trade and tourism

Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town

and the countryside will enchant you and the natural

cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy

for at least a couple of days The town along the banks

of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base

to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night

life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous

temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue

influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The

great surroundings can best be explored by renting a

motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo

Much of the province is devoted to farming

Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still

being practised in areas of the province resulting

in a landscape where forests and fields alternate

Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside

of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature

peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich

natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the

province sees far fewer visitors than popular

neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You

can go white water rafting on the Wa River

along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim

National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay

overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes

Touring Nan

Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern

lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities

of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old

salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via

endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges

and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with

orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers

Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready

to be harvested broke through the green hills

giving a golden hue to the landscape

We encountered friendly villagers who worked

their way through the dry fields - meanwhile

singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to

supplement their meager incomes Despite their

hardship they showed us their heartwarming

hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes

with us

This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi

Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and

sparsely populated that we only passed two

cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos

difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand

nowadays

PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river

The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness

begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over

the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above

the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is

broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices

Then the carved image of a Naga becomes

visible above the water line followed by more

than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted

in red and gold colorshellip

During the year the remote provincial town

of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a

year for the annual spectacle of traditional

Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos

water artery The finals are held over two

days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos

banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite

team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in

Thailand yet relatively unknown

The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long

simple shelters where the massive dragon boats

are housed during the year Just once a year

they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos

most important sporting and social event The

event takes place right after the end of the

rainy season around early November when

water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at

their highest The colorful races are part of the

festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the

last day of Buddhist Lent in October

The narrow boats are made from massive

hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters

in length depending how many paddlers they

are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily

distinguishable by their use of bright colors and

mythical designs in the traditional local style

The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of

each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting

only the good ones to participate in their race

How to get there

Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is

connected by plane and by bus to the rest of

the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan

Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice

each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to

Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to

Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on

the service

Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan

(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8

hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)

The contestants of the races are classified into

three categories mdashlarge medium and small

boats Depending on their length each boat can

accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers

sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the

same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously

against the current to the frantic beating of a

drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern

The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying

their attempt to reach the finish line first and

the paddles churning up the river creates a

spectacular atmosphere

Son

g K

ran

in

Ch

ian

g M

ai

Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of

the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down

in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The

days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing

steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the

hot months of April and May The stifling mid-

day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out

unless necessary The buzz around town about

some festival called Song Kran is starting to

increase an underlying excitement rising

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
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Page 47: Thaiguru issue10

Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of

Thailand The northern most part of this

province is at a distance of 924 km from

Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province

in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son

borders Myanmar On the south and east side it

borders Tak and Chiang Mai province

We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast

on the 108 road The scenery is woody and

mountainous so far so good And as we leave

the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek

for wildlife and beautiful landscapes

The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage

is that our average speed drops to less than

15 km hour No worries when you do trips

like these the clock stops and the only thing

on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning

landscapes that unfold before your eyes

The main road is well paved But as you might

understand we regularly go off road

This is the best way to come into contact with

locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo

While we are standing somewhere taking in the

beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a

falcon calling

A short walk through the forrest the sound

stops and we decide to sit down for some

water and well earned rest After a short while I

hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo

There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters

above us a white rumped falcon

Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras

it stays there and even when we start making

noises because we want to film it in flight it

takes itrsquos time

Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of

Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They

cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more

Of course they also have their own cattle And

walking through one of their small villages they

are very friendly and hospitable

It has to be said it is never smart to enter

a community or people with your camera

as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask

the people if they mind if you taking their

photograph or want to film their daily life

In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to

the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean

and offers a nice variety food on the terrace

with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city

where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists

Really nice to stroll down the walking street and

find food or a nice souvenir People are very

friendly as usual

From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae

Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an

average speed of 15 km hour

Halfway we jump out of the car into a river

Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to

keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn

but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around

without it

Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome

us and are gladly willing to allow us to make

photographs and film them

In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early

morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises

For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum

After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark

Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon

So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team

ChinatownBangkok

Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese

people in big cities around the world

Manhattan San Francisco Manilla

Paris and Boston have them and

more keep being officially recognised

in their role as historical and touristic

center every year Even places like

Dubai and Las Vegas have modern

day versions of this phenomenon

As soon as you pass under one of the famous

large red entrance arches you arrive in a

complete different world

A world that is paradise for photographers

A couple of the photographers in the Thai

Guru team decided to spend some time in the

Bangkok version of Chinatown

If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for

some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at

Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim

Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat

SLEEPY NANA dream destination

Relatively unknown and uncrowded

Nan has it all This gem of a province

hides an abundance of cultural and

natural attractions ancient temples

pristine forests rivers mountain

peaks but what strikes you most is

its omnipresent feel of an untroubled

authentic way of life

Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings

you this genuine feel in pictures and footage

For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of

Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant

nature and the nature of its people show

Thailand - as is often said before hordes of

tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas

it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan

managed to escape this proces but will it stay

that way Nan shares most of its border with

neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening

of the border and beyond towards China it is to

be expected that it will ultimately become an

important gateway for trade and tourism

Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town

and the countryside will enchant you and the natural

cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy

for at least a couple of days The town along the banks

of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base

to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night

life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous

temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue

influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The

great surroundings can best be explored by renting a

motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo

Much of the province is devoted to farming

Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still

being practised in areas of the province resulting

in a landscape where forests and fields alternate

Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside

of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature

peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich

natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the

province sees far fewer visitors than popular

neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You

can go white water rafting on the Wa River

along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim

National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay

overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes

Touring Nan

Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern

lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities

of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old

salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via

endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges

and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with

orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers

Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready

to be harvested broke through the green hills

giving a golden hue to the landscape

We encountered friendly villagers who worked

their way through the dry fields - meanwhile

singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to

supplement their meager incomes Despite their

hardship they showed us their heartwarming

hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes

with us

This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi

Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and

sparsely populated that we only passed two

cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos

difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand

nowadays

PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river

The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness

begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over

the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above

the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is

broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices

Then the carved image of a Naga becomes

visible above the water line followed by more

than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted

in red and gold colorshellip

During the year the remote provincial town

of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a

year for the annual spectacle of traditional

Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos

water artery The finals are held over two

days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos

banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite

team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in

Thailand yet relatively unknown

The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long

simple shelters where the massive dragon boats

are housed during the year Just once a year

they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos

most important sporting and social event The

event takes place right after the end of the

rainy season around early November when

water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at

their highest The colorful races are part of the

festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the

last day of Buddhist Lent in October

The narrow boats are made from massive

hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters

in length depending how many paddlers they

are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily

distinguishable by their use of bright colors and

mythical designs in the traditional local style

The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of

each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting

only the good ones to participate in their race

How to get there

Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is

connected by plane and by bus to the rest of

the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan

Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice

each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to

Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to

Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on

the service

Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan

(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8

hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)

The contestants of the races are classified into

three categories mdashlarge medium and small

boats Depending on their length each boat can

accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers

sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the

same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously

against the current to the frantic beating of a

drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern

The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying

their attempt to reach the finish line first and

the paddles churning up the river creates a

spectacular atmosphere

Son

g K

ran

in

Ch

ian

g M

ai

Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of

the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down

in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The

days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing

steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the

hot months of April and May The stifling mid-

day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out

unless necessary The buzz around town about

some festival called Song Kran is starting to

increase an underlying excitement rising

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
  2. Button 4
  3. Button 9
  4. previous
  5. next
Page 48: Thaiguru issue10

The main road is well paved But as you might

understand we regularly go off road

This is the best way to come into contact with

locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo

While we are standing somewhere taking in the

beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a

falcon calling

A short walk through the forrest the sound

stops and we decide to sit down for some

water and well earned rest After a short while I

hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo

There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters

above us a white rumped falcon

Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras

it stays there and even when we start making

noises because we want to film it in flight it

takes itrsquos time

Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of

Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They

cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more

Of course they also have their own cattle And

walking through one of their small villages they

are very friendly and hospitable

It has to be said it is never smart to enter

a community or people with your camera

as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask

the people if they mind if you taking their

photograph or want to film their daily life

In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to

the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean

and offers a nice variety food on the terrace

with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city

where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists

Really nice to stroll down the walking street and

find food or a nice souvenir People are very

friendly as usual

From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae

Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an

average speed of 15 km hour

Halfway we jump out of the car into a river

Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to

keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn

but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around

without it

Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome

us and are gladly willing to allow us to make

photographs and film them

In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early

morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises

For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum

After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark

Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon

So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team

ChinatownBangkok

Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese

people in big cities around the world

Manhattan San Francisco Manilla

Paris and Boston have them and

more keep being officially recognised

in their role as historical and touristic

center every year Even places like

Dubai and Las Vegas have modern

day versions of this phenomenon

As soon as you pass under one of the famous

large red entrance arches you arrive in a

complete different world

A world that is paradise for photographers

A couple of the photographers in the Thai

Guru team decided to spend some time in the

Bangkok version of Chinatown

If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for

some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at

Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim

Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat

SLEEPY NANA dream destination

Relatively unknown and uncrowded

Nan has it all This gem of a province

hides an abundance of cultural and

natural attractions ancient temples

pristine forests rivers mountain

peaks but what strikes you most is

its omnipresent feel of an untroubled

authentic way of life

Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings

you this genuine feel in pictures and footage

For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of

Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant

nature and the nature of its people show

Thailand - as is often said before hordes of

tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas

it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan

managed to escape this proces but will it stay

that way Nan shares most of its border with

neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening

of the border and beyond towards China it is to

be expected that it will ultimately become an

important gateway for trade and tourism

Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town

and the countryside will enchant you and the natural

cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy

for at least a couple of days The town along the banks

of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base

to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night

life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous

temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue

influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The

great surroundings can best be explored by renting a

motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo

Much of the province is devoted to farming

Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still

being practised in areas of the province resulting

in a landscape where forests and fields alternate

Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside

of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature

peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich

natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the

province sees far fewer visitors than popular

neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You

can go white water rafting on the Wa River

along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim

National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay

overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes

Touring Nan

Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern

lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities

of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old

salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via

endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges

and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with

orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers

Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready

to be harvested broke through the green hills

giving a golden hue to the landscape

We encountered friendly villagers who worked

their way through the dry fields - meanwhile

singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to

supplement their meager incomes Despite their

hardship they showed us their heartwarming

hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes

with us

This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi

Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and

sparsely populated that we only passed two

cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos

difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand

nowadays

PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river

The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness

begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over

the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above

the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is

broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices

Then the carved image of a Naga becomes

visible above the water line followed by more

than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted

in red and gold colorshellip

During the year the remote provincial town

of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a

year for the annual spectacle of traditional

Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos

water artery The finals are held over two

days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos

banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite

team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in

Thailand yet relatively unknown

The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long

simple shelters where the massive dragon boats

are housed during the year Just once a year

they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos

most important sporting and social event The

event takes place right after the end of the

rainy season around early November when

water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at

their highest The colorful races are part of the

festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the

last day of Buddhist Lent in October

The narrow boats are made from massive

hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters

in length depending how many paddlers they

are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily

distinguishable by their use of bright colors and

mythical designs in the traditional local style

The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of

each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting

only the good ones to participate in their race

How to get there

Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is

connected by plane and by bus to the rest of

the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan

Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice

each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to

Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to

Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on

the service

Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan

(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8

hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)

The contestants of the races are classified into

three categories mdashlarge medium and small

boats Depending on their length each boat can

accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers

sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the

same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously

against the current to the frantic beating of a

drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern

The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying

their attempt to reach the finish line first and

the paddles churning up the river creates a

spectacular atmosphere

Son

g K

ran

in

Ch

ian

g M

ai

Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of

the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down

in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The

days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing

steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the

hot months of April and May The stifling mid-

day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out

unless necessary The buzz around town about

some festival called Song Kran is starting to

increase an underlying excitement rising

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
  2. Button 4
  3. Button 9
  4. previous
  5. next
Page 49: Thaiguru issue10

Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of

Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They

cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more

Of course they also have their own cattle And

walking through one of their small villages they

are very friendly and hospitable

It has to be said it is never smart to enter

a community or people with your camera

as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask

the people if they mind if you taking their

photograph or want to film their daily life

In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to

the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean

and offers a nice variety food on the terrace

with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city

where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists

Really nice to stroll down the walking street and

find food or a nice souvenir People are very

friendly as usual

From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae

Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an

average speed of 15 km hour

Halfway we jump out of the car into a river

Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to

keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn

but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around

without it

Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome

us and are gladly willing to allow us to make

photographs and film them

In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early

morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises

For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum

After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark

Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon

So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team

ChinatownBangkok

Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese

people in big cities around the world

Manhattan San Francisco Manilla

Paris and Boston have them and

more keep being officially recognised

in their role as historical and touristic

center every year Even places like

Dubai and Las Vegas have modern

day versions of this phenomenon

As soon as you pass under one of the famous

large red entrance arches you arrive in a

complete different world

A world that is paradise for photographers

A couple of the photographers in the Thai

Guru team decided to spend some time in the

Bangkok version of Chinatown

If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for

some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at

Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim

Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat

SLEEPY NANA dream destination

Relatively unknown and uncrowded

Nan has it all This gem of a province

hides an abundance of cultural and

natural attractions ancient temples

pristine forests rivers mountain

peaks but what strikes you most is

its omnipresent feel of an untroubled

authentic way of life

Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings

you this genuine feel in pictures and footage

For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of

Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant

nature and the nature of its people show

Thailand - as is often said before hordes of

tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas

it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan

managed to escape this proces but will it stay

that way Nan shares most of its border with

neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening

of the border and beyond towards China it is to

be expected that it will ultimately become an

important gateway for trade and tourism

Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town

and the countryside will enchant you and the natural

cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy

for at least a couple of days The town along the banks

of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base

to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night

life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous

temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue

influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The

great surroundings can best be explored by renting a

motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo

Much of the province is devoted to farming

Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still

being practised in areas of the province resulting

in a landscape where forests and fields alternate

Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside

of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature

peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich

natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the

province sees far fewer visitors than popular

neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You

can go white water rafting on the Wa River

along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim

National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay

overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes

Touring Nan

Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern

lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities

of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old

salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via

endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges

and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with

orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers

Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready

to be harvested broke through the green hills

giving a golden hue to the landscape

We encountered friendly villagers who worked

their way through the dry fields - meanwhile

singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to

supplement their meager incomes Despite their

hardship they showed us their heartwarming

hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes

with us

This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi

Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and

sparsely populated that we only passed two

cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos

difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand

nowadays

PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river

The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness

begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over

the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above

the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is

broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices

Then the carved image of a Naga becomes

visible above the water line followed by more

than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted

in red and gold colorshellip

During the year the remote provincial town

of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a

year for the annual spectacle of traditional

Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos

water artery The finals are held over two

days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos

banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite

team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in

Thailand yet relatively unknown

The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long

simple shelters where the massive dragon boats

are housed during the year Just once a year

they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos

most important sporting and social event The

event takes place right after the end of the

rainy season around early November when

water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at

their highest The colorful races are part of the

festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the

last day of Buddhist Lent in October

The narrow boats are made from massive

hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters

in length depending how many paddlers they

are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily

distinguishable by their use of bright colors and

mythical designs in the traditional local style

The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of

each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting

only the good ones to participate in their race

How to get there

Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is

connected by plane and by bus to the rest of

the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan

Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice

each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to

Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to

Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on

the service

Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan

(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8

hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)

The contestants of the races are classified into

three categories mdashlarge medium and small

boats Depending on their length each boat can

accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers

sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the

same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously

against the current to the frantic beating of a

drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern

The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying

their attempt to reach the finish line first and

the paddles churning up the river creates a

spectacular atmosphere

Son

g K

ran

in

Ch

ian

g M

ai

Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of

the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down

in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The

days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing

steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the

hot months of April and May The stifling mid-

day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out

unless necessary The buzz around town about

some festival called Song Kran is starting to

increase an underlying excitement rising

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
  2. Button 4
  3. Button 9
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  5. next
Page 50: Thaiguru issue10

In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to

the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean

and offers a nice variety food on the terrace

with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city

where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists

Really nice to stroll down the walking street and

find food or a nice souvenir People are very

friendly as usual

From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae

Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an

average speed of 15 km hour

Halfway we jump out of the car into a river

Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to

keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn

but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around

without it

Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome

us and are gladly willing to allow us to make

photographs and film them

In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early

morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises

For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum

After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark

Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon

So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team

ChinatownBangkok

Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese

people in big cities around the world

Manhattan San Francisco Manilla

Paris and Boston have them and

more keep being officially recognised

in their role as historical and touristic

center every year Even places like

Dubai and Las Vegas have modern

day versions of this phenomenon

As soon as you pass under one of the famous

large red entrance arches you arrive in a

complete different world

A world that is paradise for photographers

A couple of the photographers in the Thai

Guru team decided to spend some time in the

Bangkok version of Chinatown

If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for

some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at

Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim

Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat

SLEEPY NANA dream destination

Relatively unknown and uncrowded

Nan has it all This gem of a province

hides an abundance of cultural and

natural attractions ancient temples

pristine forests rivers mountain

peaks but what strikes you most is

its omnipresent feel of an untroubled

authentic way of life

Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings

you this genuine feel in pictures and footage

For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of

Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant

nature and the nature of its people show

Thailand - as is often said before hordes of

tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas

it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan

managed to escape this proces but will it stay

that way Nan shares most of its border with

neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening

of the border and beyond towards China it is to

be expected that it will ultimately become an

important gateway for trade and tourism

Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town

and the countryside will enchant you and the natural

cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy

for at least a couple of days The town along the banks

of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base

to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night

life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous

temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue

influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The

great surroundings can best be explored by renting a

motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo

Much of the province is devoted to farming

Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still

being practised in areas of the province resulting

in a landscape where forests and fields alternate

Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside

of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature

peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich

natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the

province sees far fewer visitors than popular

neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You

can go white water rafting on the Wa River

along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim

National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay

overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes

Touring Nan

Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern

lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities

of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old

salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via

endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges

and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with

orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers

Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready

to be harvested broke through the green hills

giving a golden hue to the landscape

We encountered friendly villagers who worked

their way through the dry fields - meanwhile

singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to

supplement their meager incomes Despite their

hardship they showed us their heartwarming

hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes

with us

This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi

Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and

sparsely populated that we only passed two

cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos

difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand

nowadays

PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river

The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness

begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over

the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above

the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is

broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices

Then the carved image of a Naga becomes

visible above the water line followed by more

than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted

in red and gold colorshellip

During the year the remote provincial town

of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a

year for the annual spectacle of traditional

Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos

water artery The finals are held over two

days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos

banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite

team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in

Thailand yet relatively unknown

The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long

simple shelters where the massive dragon boats

are housed during the year Just once a year

they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos

most important sporting and social event The

event takes place right after the end of the

rainy season around early November when

water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at

their highest The colorful races are part of the

festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the

last day of Buddhist Lent in October

The narrow boats are made from massive

hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters

in length depending how many paddlers they

are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily

distinguishable by their use of bright colors and

mythical designs in the traditional local style

The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of

each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting

only the good ones to participate in their race

How to get there

Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is

connected by plane and by bus to the rest of

the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan

Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice

each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to

Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to

Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on

the service

Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan

(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8

hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)

The contestants of the races are classified into

three categories mdashlarge medium and small

boats Depending on their length each boat can

accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers

sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the

same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously

against the current to the frantic beating of a

drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern

The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying

their attempt to reach the finish line first and

the paddles churning up the river creates a

spectacular atmosphere

Son

g K

ran

in

Ch

ian

g M

ai

Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of

the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down

in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The

days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing

steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the

hot months of April and May The stifling mid-

day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out

unless necessary The buzz around town about

some festival called Song Kran is starting to

increase an underlying excitement rising

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
  2. Button 4
  3. Button 9
  4. previous
  5. next
Page 51: Thaiguru issue10

From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae

Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an

average speed of 15 km hour

Halfway we jump out of the car into a river

Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to

keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn

but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around

without it

Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome

us and are gladly willing to allow us to make

photographs and film them

In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early

morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises

For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum

After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark

Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon

So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team

ChinatownBangkok

Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese

people in big cities around the world

Manhattan San Francisco Manilla

Paris and Boston have them and

more keep being officially recognised

in their role as historical and touristic

center every year Even places like

Dubai and Las Vegas have modern

day versions of this phenomenon

As soon as you pass under one of the famous

large red entrance arches you arrive in a

complete different world

A world that is paradise for photographers

A couple of the photographers in the Thai

Guru team decided to spend some time in the

Bangkok version of Chinatown

If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for

some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at

Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim

Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat

SLEEPY NANA dream destination

Relatively unknown and uncrowded

Nan has it all This gem of a province

hides an abundance of cultural and

natural attractions ancient temples

pristine forests rivers mountain

peaks but what strikes you most is

its omnipresent feel of an untroubled

authentic way of life

Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings

you this genuine feel in pictures and footage

For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of

Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant

nature and the nature of its people show

Thailand - as is often said before hordes of

tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas

it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan

managed to escape this proces but will it stay

that way Nan shares most of its border with

neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening

of the border and beyond towards China it is to

be expected that it will ultimately become an

important gateway for trade and tourism

Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town

and the countryside will enchant you and the natural

cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy

for at least a couple of days The town along the banks

of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base

to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night

life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous

temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue

influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The

great surroundings can best be explored by renting a

motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo

Much of the province is devoted to farming

Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still

being practised in areas of the province resulting

in a landscape where forests and fields alternate

Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside

of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature

peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich

natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the

province sees far fewer visitors than popular

neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You

can go white water rafting on the Wa River

along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim

National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay

overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes

Touring Nan

Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern

lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities

of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old

salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via

endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges

and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with

orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers

Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready

to be harvested broke through the green hills

giving a golden hue to the landscape

We encountered friendly villagers who worked

their way through the dry fields - meanwhile

singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to

supplement their meager incomes Despite their

hardship they showed us their heartwarming

hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes

with us

This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi

Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and

sparsely populated that we only passed two

cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos

difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand

nowadays

PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river

The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness

begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over

the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above

the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is

broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices

Then the carved image of a Naga becomes

visible above the water line followed by more

than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted

in red and gold colorshellip

During the year the remote provincial town

of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a

year for the annual spectacle of traditional

Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos

water artery The finals are held over two

days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos

banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite

team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in

Thailand yet relatively unknown

The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long

simple shelters where the massive dragon boats

are housed during the year Just once a year

they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos

most important sporting and social event The

event takes place right after the end of the

rainy season around early November when

water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at

their highest The colorful races are part of the

festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the

last day of Buddhist Lent in October

The narrow boats are made from massive

hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters

in length depending how many paddlers they

are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily

distinguishable by their use of bright colors and

mythical designs in the traditional local style

The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of

each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting

only the good ones to participate in their race

How to get there

Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is

connected by plane and by bus to the rest of

the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan

Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice

each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to

Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to

Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on

the service

Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan

(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8

hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)

The contestants of the races are classified into

three categories mdashlarge medium and small

boats Depending on their length each boat can

accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers

sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the

same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously

against the current to the frantic beating of a

drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern

The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying

their attempt to reach the finish line first and

the paddles churning up the river creates a

spectacular atmosphere

Son

g K

ran

in

Ch

ian

g M

ai

Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of

the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down

in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The

days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing

steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the

hot months of April and May The stifling mid-

day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out

unless necessary The buzz around town about

some festival called Song Kran is starting to

increase an underlying excitement rising

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
  2. Button 4
  3. Button 9
  4. previous
  5. next
Page 52: Thaiguru issue10

In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early

morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises

For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum

After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark

Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon

So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team

ChinatownBangkok

Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese

people in big cities around the world

Manhattan San Francisco Manilla

Paris and Boston have them and

more keep being officially recognised

in their role as historical and touristic

center every year Even places like

Dubai and Las Vegas have modern

day versions of this phenomenon

As soon as you pass under one of the famous

large red entrance arches you arrive in a

complete different world

A world that is paradise for photographers

A couple of the photographers in the Thai

Guru team decided to spend some time in the

Bangkok version of Chinatown

If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for

some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at

Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim

Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat

SLEEPY NANA dream destination

Relatively unknown and uncrowded

Nan has it all This gem of a province

hides an abundance of cultural and

natural attractions ancient temples

pristine forests rivers mountain

peaks but what strikes you most is

its omnipresent feel of an untroubled

authentic way of life

Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings

you this genuine feel in pictures and footage

For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of

Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant

nature and the nature of its people show

Thailand - as is often said before hordes of

tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas

it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan

managed to escape this proces but will it stay

that way Nan shares most of its border with

neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening

of the border and beyond towards China it is to

be expected that it will ultimately become an

important gateway for trade and tourism

Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town

and the countryside will enchant you and the natural

cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy

for at least a couple of days The town along the banks

of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base

to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night

life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous

temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue

influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The

great surroundings can best be explored by renting a

motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo

Much of the province is devoted to farming

Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still

being practised in areas of the province resulting

in a landscape where forests and fields alternate

Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside

of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature

peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich

natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the

province sees far fewer visitors than popular

neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You

can go white water rafting on the Wa River

along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim

National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay

overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes

Touring Nan

Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern

lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities

of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old

salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via

endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges

and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with

orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers

Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready

to be harvested broke through the green hills

giving a golden hue to the landscape

We encountered friendly villagers who worked

their way through the dry fields - meanwhile

singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to

supplement their meager incomes Despite their

hardship they showed us their heartwarming

hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes

with us

This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi

Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and

sparsely populated that we only passed two

cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos

difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand

nowadays

PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river

The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness

begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over

the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above

the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is

broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices

Then the carved image of a Naga becomes

visible above the water line followed by more

than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted

in red and gold colorshellip

During the year the remote provincial town

of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a

year for the annual spectacle of traditional

Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos

water artery The finals are held over two

days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos

banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite

team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in

Thailand yet relatively unknown

The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long

simple shelters where the massive dragon boats

are housed during the year Just once a year

they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos

most important sporting and social event The

event takes place right after the end of the

rainy season around early November when

water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at

their highest The colorful races are part of the

festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the

last day of Buddhist Lent in October

The narrow boats are made from massive

hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters

in length depending how many paddlers they

are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily

distinguishable by their use of bright colors and

mythical designs in the traditional local style

The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of

each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting

only the good ones to participate in their race

How to get there

Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is

connected by plane and by bus to the rest of

the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan

Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice

each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to

Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to

Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on

the service

Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan

(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8

hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)

The contestants of the races are classified into

three categories mdashlarge medium and small

boats Depending on their length each boat can

accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers

sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the

same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously

against the current to the frantic beating of a

drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern

The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying

their attempt to reach the finish line first and

the paddles churning up the river creates a

spectacular atmosphere

Son

g K

ran

in

Ch

ian

g M

ai

Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of

the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down

in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The

days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing

steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the

hot months of April and May The stifling mid-

day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out

unless necessary The buzz around town about

some festival called Song Kran is starting to

increase an underlying excitement rising

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
  2. Button 4
  3. Button 9
  4. previous
  5. next
Page 53: Thaiguru issue10

ChinatownBangkok

Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese

people in big cities around the world

Manhattan San Francisco Manilla

Paris and Boston have them and

more keep being officially recognised

in their role as historical and touristic

center every year Even places like

Dubai and Las Vegas have modern

day versions of this phenomenon

As soon as you pass under one of the famous

large red entrance arches you arrive in a

complete different world

A world that is paradise for photographers

A couple of the photographers in the Thai

Guru team decided to spend some time in the

Bangkok version of Chinatown

If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for

some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at

Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim

Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat

SLEEPY NANA dream destination

Relatively unknown and uncrowded

Nan has it all This gem of a province

hides an abundance of cultural and

natural attractions ancient temples

pristine forests rivers mountain

peaks but what strikes you most is

its omnipresent feel of an untroubled

authentic way of life

Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings

you this genuine feel in pictures and footage

For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of

Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant

nature and the nature of its people show

Thailand - as is often said before hordes of

tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas

it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan

managed to escape this proces but will it stay

that way Nan shares most of its border with

neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening

of the border and beyond towards China it is to

be expected that it will ultimately become an

important gateway for trade and tourism

Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town

and the countryside will enchant you and the natural

cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy

for at least a couple of days The town along the banks

of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base

to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night

life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous

temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue

influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The

great surroundings can best be explored by renting a

motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo

Much of the province is devoted to farming

Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still

being practised in areas of the province resulting

in a landscape where forests and fields alternate

Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside

of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature

peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich

natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the

province sees far fewer visitors than popular

neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You

can go white water rafting on the Wa River

along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim

National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay

overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes

Touring Nan

Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern

lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities

of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old

salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via

endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges

and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with

orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers

Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready

to be harvested broke through the green hills

giving a golden hue to the landscape

We encountered friendly villagers who worked

their way through the dry fields - meanwhile

singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to

supplement their meager incomes Despite their

hardship they showed us their heartwarming

hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes

with us

This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi

Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and

sparsely populated that we only passed two

cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos

difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand

nowadays

PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river

The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness

begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over

the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above

the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is

broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices

Then the carved image of a Naga becomes

visible above the water line followed by more

than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted

in red and gold colorshellip

During the year the remote provincial town

of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a

year for the annual spectacle of traditional

Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos

water artery The finals are held over two

days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos

banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite

team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in

Thailand yet relatively unknown

The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long

simple shelters where the massive dragon boats

are housed during the year Just once a year

they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos

most important sporting and social event The

event takes place right after the end of the

rainy season around early November when

water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at

their highest The colorful races are part of the

festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the

last day of Buddhist Lent in October

The narrow boats are made from massive

hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters

in length depending how many paddlers they

are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily

distinguishable by their use of bright colors and

mythical designs in the traditional local style

The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of

each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting

only the good ones to participate in their race

How to get there

Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is

connected by plane and by bus to the rest of

the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan

Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice

each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to

Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to

Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on

the service

Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan

(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8

hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)

The contestants of the races are classified into

three categories mdashlarge medium and small

boats Depending on their length each boat can

accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers

sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the

same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously

against the current to the frantic beating of a

drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern

The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying

their attempt to reach the finish line first and

the paddles churning up the river creates a

spectacular atmosphere

Son

g K

ran

in

Ch

ian

g M

ai

Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of

the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down

in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The

days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing

steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the

hot months of April and May The stifling mid-

day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out

unless necessary The buzz around town about

some festival called Song Kran is starting to

increase an underlying excitement rising

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
  2. Button 4
  3. Button 9
  4. previous
  5. next
Page 54: Thaiguru issue10

Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese

people in big cities around the world

Manhattan San Francisco Manilla

Paris and Boston have them and

more keep being officially recognised

in their role as historical and touristic

center every year Even places like

Dubai and Las Vegas have modern

day versions of this phenomenon

As soon as you pass under one of the famous

large red entrance arches you arrive in a

complete different world

A world that is paradise for photographers

A couple of the photographers in the Thai

Guru team decided to spend some time in the

Bangkok version of Chinatown

If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for

some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at

Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim

Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat

SLEEPY NANA dream destination

Relatively unknown and uncrowded

Nan has it all This gem of a province

hides an abundance of cultural and

natural attractions ancient temples

pristine forests rivers mountain

peaks but what strikes you most is

its omnipresent feel of an untroubled

authentic way of life

Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings

you this genuine feel in pictures and footage

For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of

Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant

nature and the nature of its people show

Thailand - as is often said before hordes of

tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas

it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan

managed to escape this proces but will it stay

that way Nan shares most of its border with

neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening

of the border and beyond towards China it is to

be expected that it will ultimately become an

important gateway for trade and tourism

Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town

and the countryside will enchant you and the natural

cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy

for at least a couple of days The town along the banks

of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base

to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night

life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous

temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue

influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The

great surroundings can best be explored by renting a

motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo

Much of the province is devoted to farming

Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still

being practised in areas of the province resulting

in a landscape where forests and fields alternate

Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside

of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature

peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich

natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the

province sees far fewer visitors than popular

neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You

can go white water rafting on the Wa River

along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim

National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay

overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes

Touring Nan

Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern

lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities

of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old

salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via

endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges

and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with

orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers

Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready

to be harvested broke through the green hills

giving a golden hue to the landscape

We encountered friendly villagers who worked

their way through the dry fields - meanwhile

singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to

supplement their meager incomes Despite their

hardship they showed us their heartwarming

hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes

with us

This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi

Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and

sparsely populated that we only passed two

cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos

difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand

nowadays

PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river

The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness

begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over

the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above

the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is

broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices

Then the carved image of a Naga becomes

visible above the water line followed by more

than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted

in red and gold colorshellip

During the year the remote provincial town

of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a

year for the annual spectacle of traditional

Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos

water artery The finals are held over two

days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos

banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite

team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in

Thailand yet relatively unknown

The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long

simple shelters where the massive dragon boats

are housed during the year Just once a year

they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos

most important sporting and social event The

event takes place right after the end of the

rainy season around early November when

water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at

their highest The colorful races are part of the

festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the

last day of Buddhist Lent in October

The narrow boats are made from massive

hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters

in length depending how many paddlers they

are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily

distinguishable by their use of bright colors and

mythical designs in the traditional local style

The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of

each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting

only the good ones to participate in their race

How to get there

Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is

connected by plane and by bus to the rest of

the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan

Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice

each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to

Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to

Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on

the service

Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan

(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8

hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)

The contestants of the races are classified into

three categories mdashlarge medium and small

boats Depending on their length each boat can

accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers

sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the

same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously

against the current to the frantic beating of a

drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern

The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying

their attempt to reach the finish line first and

the paddles churning up the river creates a

spectacular atmosphere

Son

g K

ran

in

Ch

ian

g M

ai

Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of

the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down

in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The

days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing

steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the

hot months of April and May The stifling mid-

day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out

unless necessary The buzz around town about

some festival called Song Kran is starting to

increase an underlying excitement rising

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
  2. Button 4
  3. Button 9
  4. previous
  5. next
Page 55: Thaiguru issue10

As soon as you pass under one of the famous

large red entrance arches you arrive in a

complete different world

A world that is paradise for photographers

A couple of the photographers in the Thai

Guru team decided to spend some time in the

Bangkok version of Chinatown

If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for

some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at

Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim

Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat

SLEEPY NANA dream destination

Relatively unknown and uncrowded

Nan has it all This gem of a province

hides an abundance of cultural and

natural attractions ancient temples

pristine forests rivers mountain

peaks but what strikes you most is

its omnipresent feel of an untroubled

authentic way of life

Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings

you this genuine feel in pictures and footage

For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of

Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant

nature and the nature of its people show

Thailand - as is often said before hordes of

tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas

it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan

managed to escape this proces but will it stay

that way Nan shares most of its border with

neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening

of the border and beyond towards China it is to

be expected that it will ultimately become an

important gateway for trade and tourism

Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town

and the countryside will enchant you and the natural

cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy

for at least a couple of days The town along the banks

of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base

to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night

life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous

temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue

influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The

great surroundings can best be explored by renting a

motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo

Much of the province is devoted to farming

Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still

being practised in areas of the province resulting

in a landscape where forests and fields alternate

Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside

of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature

peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich

natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the

province sees far fewer visitors than popular

neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You

can go white water rafting on the Wa River

along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim

National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay

overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes

Touring Nan

Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern

lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities

of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old

salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via

endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges

and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with

orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers

Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready

to be harvested broke through the green hills

giving a golden hue to the landscape

We encountered friendly villagers who worked

their way through the dry fields - meanwhile

singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to

supplement their meager incomes Despite their

hardship they showed us their heartwarming

hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes

with us

This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi

Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and

sparsely populated that we only passed two

cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos

difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand

nowadays

PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river

The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness

begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over

the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above

the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is

broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices

Then the carved image of a Naga becomes

visible above the water line followed by more

than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted

in red and gold colorshellip

During the year the remote provincial town

of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a

year for the annual spectacle of traditional

Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos

water artery The finals are held over two

days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos

banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite

team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in

Thailand yet relatively unknown

The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long

simple shelters where the massive dragon boats

are housed during the year Just once a year

they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos

most important sporting and social event The

event takes place right after the end of the

rainy season around early November when

water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at

their highest The colorful races are part of the

festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the

last day of Buddhist Lent in October

The narrow boats are made from massive

hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters

in length depending how many paddlers they

are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily

distinguishable by their use of bright colors and

mythical designs in the traditional local style

The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of

each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting

only the good ones to participate in their race

How to get there

Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is

connected by plane and by bus to the rest of

the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan

Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice

each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to

Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to

Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on

the service

Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan

(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8

hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)

The contestants of the races are classified into

three categories mdashlarge medium and small

boats Depending on their length each boat can

accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers

sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the

same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously

against the current to the frantic beating of a

drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern

The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying

their attempt to reach the finish line first and

the paddles churning up the river creates a

spectacular atmosphere

Son

g K

ran

in

Ch

ian

g M

ai

Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of

the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down

in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The

days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing

steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the

hot months of April and May The stifling mid-

day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out

unless necessary The buzz around town about

some festival called Song Kran is starting to

increase an underlying excitement rising

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
  2. Button 4
  3. Button 9
  4. previous
  5. next
Page 56: Thaiguru issue10

SLEEPY NANA dream destination

Relatively unknown and uncrowded

Nan has it all This gem of a province

hides an abundance of cultural and

natural attractions ancient temples

pristine forests rivers mountain

peaks but what strikes you most is

its omnipresent feel of an untroubled

authentic way of life

Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings

you this genuine feel in pictures and footage

For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of

Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant

nature and the nature of its people show

Thailand - as is often said before hordes of

tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas

it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan

managed to escape this proces but will it stay

that way Nan shares most of its border with

neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening

of the border and beyond towards China it is to

be expected that it will ultimately become an

important gateway for trade and tourism

Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town

and the countryside will enchant you and the natural

cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy

for at least a couple of days The town along the banks

of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base

to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night

life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous

temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue

influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The

great surroundings can best be explored by renting a

motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo

Much of the province is devoted to farming

Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still

being practised in areas of the province resulting

in a landscape where forests and fields alternate

Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside

of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature

peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich

natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the

province sees far fewer visitors than popular

neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You

can go white water rafting on the Wa River

along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim

National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay

overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes

Touring Nan

Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern

lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities

of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old

salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via

endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges

and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with

orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers

Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready

to be harvested broke through the green hills

giving a golden hue to the landscape

We encountered friendly villagers who worked

their way through the dry fields - meanwhile

singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to

supplement their meager incomes Despite their

hardship they showed us their heartwarming

hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes

with us

This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi

Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and

sparsely populated that we only passed two

cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos

difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand

nowadays

PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river

The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness

begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over

the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above

the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is

broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices

Then the carved image of a Naga becomes

visible above the water line followed by more

than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted

in red and gold colorshellip

During the year the remote provincial town

of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a

year for the annual spectacle of traditional

Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos

water artery The finals are held over two

days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos

banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite

team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in

Thailand yet relatively unknown

The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long

simple shelters where the massive dragon boats

are housed during the year Just once a year

they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos

most important sporting and social event The

event takes place right after the end of the

rainy season around early November when

water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at

their highest The colorful races are part of the

festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the

last day of Buddhist Lent in October

The narrow boats are made from massive

hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters

in length depending how many paddlers they

are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily

distinguishable by their use of bright colors and

mythical designs in the traditional local style

The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of

each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting

only the good ones to participate in their race

How to get there

Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is

connected by plane and by bus to the rest of

the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan

Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice

each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to

Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to

Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on

the service

Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan

(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8

hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)

The contestants of the races are classified into

three categories mdashlarge medium and small

boats Depending on their length each boat can

accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers

sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the

same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously

against the current to the frantic beating of a

drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern

The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying

their attempt to reach the finish line first and

the paddles churning up the river creates a

spectacular atmosphere

Son

g K

ran

in

Ch

ian

g M

ai

Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of

the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down

in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The

days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing

steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the

hot months of April and May The stifling mid-

day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out

unless necessary The buzz around town about

some festival called Song Kran is starting to

increase an underlying excitement rising

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
  2. Button 4
  3. Button 9
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  5. next
Page 57: Thaiguru issue10

Relatively unknown and uncrowded

Nan has it all This gem of a province

hides an abundance of cultural and

natural attractions ancient temples

pristine forests rivers mountain

peaks but what strikes you most is

its omnipresent feel of an untroubled

authentic way of life

Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings

you this genuine feel in pictures and footage

For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of

Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant

nature and the nature of its people show

Thailand - as is often said before hordes of

tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas

it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan

managed to escape this proces but will it stay

that way Nan shares most of its border with

neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening

of the border and beyond towards China it is to

be expected that it will ultimately become an

important gateway for trade and tourism

Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town

and the countryside will enchant you and the natural

cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy

for at least a couple of days The town along the banks

of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base

to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night

life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous

temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue

influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The

great surroundings can best be explored by renting a

motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo

Much of the province is devoted to farming

Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still

being practised in areas of the province resulting

in a landscape where forests and fields alternate

Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside

of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature

peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich

natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the

province sees far fewer visitors than popular

neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You

can go white water rafting on the Wa River

along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim

National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay

overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes

Touring Nan

Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern

lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities

of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old

salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via

endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges

and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with

orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers

Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready

to be harvested broke through the green hills

giving a golden hue to the landscape

We encountered friendly villagers who worked

their way through the dry fields - meanwhile

singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to

supplement their meager incomes Despite their

hardship they showed us their heartwarming

hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes

with us

This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi

Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and

sparsely populated that we only passed two

cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos

difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand

nowadays

PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river

The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness

begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over

the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above

the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is

broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices

Then the carved image of a Naga becomes

visible above the water line followed by more

than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted

in red and gold colorshellip

During the year the remote provincial town

of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a

year for the annual spectacle of traditional

Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos

water artery The finals are held over two

days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos

banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite

team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in

Thailand yet relatively unknown

The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long

simple shelters where the massive dragon boats

are housed during the year Just once a year

they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos

most important sporting and social event The

event takes place right after the end of the

rainy season around early November when

water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at

their highest The colorful races are part of the

festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the

last day of Buddhist Lent in October

The narrow boats are made from massive

hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters

in length depending how many paddlers they

are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily

distinguishable by their use of bright colors and

mythical designs in the traditional local style

The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of

each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting

only the good ones to participate in their race

How to get there

Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is

connected by plane and by bus to the rest of

the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan

Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice

each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to

Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to

Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on

the service

Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan

(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8

hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)

The contestants of the races are classified into

three categories mdashlarge medium and small

boats Depending on their length each boat can

accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers

sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the

same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously

against the current to the frantic beating of a

drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern

The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying

their attempt to reach the finish line first and

the paddles churning up the river creates a

spectacular atmosphere

Son

g K

ran

in

Ch

ian

g M

ai

Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of

the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down

in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The

days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing

steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the

hot months of April and May The stifling mid-

day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out

unless necessary The buzz around town about

some festival called Song Kran is starting to

increase an underlying excitement rising

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
  2. Button 4
  3. Button 9
  4. previous
  5. next
Page 58: Thaiguru issue10

Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings

you this genuine feel in pictures and footage

For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of

Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant

nature and the nature of its people show

Thailand - as is often said before hordes of

tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas

it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan

managed to escape this proces but will it stay

that way Nan shares most of its border with

neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening

of the border and beyond towards China it is to

be expected that it will ultimately become an

important gateway for trade and tourism

Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town

and the countryside will enchant you and the natural

cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy

for at least a couple of days The town along the banks

of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base

to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night

life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous

temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue

influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The

great surroundings can best be explored by renting a

motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo

Much of the province is devoted to farming

Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still

being practised in areas of the province resulting

in a landscape where forests and fields alternate

Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside

of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature

peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich

natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the

province sees far fewer visitors than popular

neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You

can go white water rafting on the Wa River

along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim

National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay

overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes

Touring Nan

Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern

lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities

of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old

salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via

endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges

and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with

orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers

Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready

to be harvested broke through the green hills

giving a golden hue to the landscape

We encountered friendly villagers who worked

their way through the dry fields - meanwhile

singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to

supplement their meager incomes Despite their

hardship they showed us their heartwarming

hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes

with us

This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi

Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and

sparsely populated that we only passed two

cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos

difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand

nowadays

PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river

The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness

begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over

the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above

the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is

broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices

Then the carved image of a Naga becomes

visible above the water line followed by more

than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted

in red and gold colorshellip

During the year the remote provincial town

of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a

year for the annual spectacle of traditional

Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos

water artery The finals are held over two

days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos

banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite

team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in

Thailand yet relatively unknown

The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long

simple shelters where the massive dragon boats

are housed during the year Just once a year

they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos

most important sporting and social event The

event takes place right after the end of the

rainy season around early November when

water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at

their highest The colorful races are part of the

festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the

last day of Buddhist Lent in October

The narrow boats are made from massive

hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters

in length depending how many paddlers they

are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily

distinguishable by their use of bright colors and

mythical designs in the traditional local style

The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of

each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting

only the good ones to participate in their race

How to get there

Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is

connected by plane and by bus to the rest of

the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan

Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice

each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to

Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to

Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on

the service

Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan

(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8

hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)

The contestants of the races are classified into

three categories mdashlarge medium and small

boats Depending on their length each boat can

accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers

sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the

same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously

against the current to the frantic beating of a

drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern

The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying

their attempt to reach the finish line first and

the paddles churning up the river creates a

spectacular atmosphere

Son

g K

ran

in

Ch

ian

g M

ai

Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of

the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down

in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The

days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing

steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the

hot months of April and May The stifling mid-

day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out

unless necessary The buzz around town about

some festival called Song Kran is starting to

increase an underlying excitement rising

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
  2. Button 4
  3. Button 9
  4. previous
  5. next
Page 59: Thaiguru issue10

Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town

and the countryside will enchant you and the natural

cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy

for at least a couple of days The town along the banks

of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base

to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night

life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous

temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue

influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The

great surroundings can best be explored by renting a

motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo

Much of the province is devoted to farming

Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still

being practised in areas of the province resulting

in a landscape where forests and fields alternate

Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside

of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature

peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich

natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the

province sees far fewer visitors than popular

neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You

can go white water rafting on the Wa River

along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim

National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay

overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes

Touring Nan

Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern

lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities

of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old

salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via

endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges

and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with

orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers

Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready

to be harvested broke through the green hills

giving a golden hue to the landscape

We encountered friendly villagers who worked

their way through the dry fields - meanwhile

singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to

supplement their meager incomes Despite their

hardship they showed us their heartwarming

hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes

with us

This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi

Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and

sparsely populated that we only passed two

cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos

difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand

nowadays

PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river

The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness

begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over

the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above

the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is

broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices

Then the carved image of a Naga becomes

visible above the water line followed by more

than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted

in red and gold colorshellip

During the year the remote provincial town

of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a

year for the annual spectacle of traditional

Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos

water artery The finals are held over two

days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos

banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite

team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in

Thailand yet relatively unknown

The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long

simple shelters where the massive dragon boats

are housed during the year Just once a year

they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos

most important sporting and social event The

event takes place right after the end of the

rainy season around early November when

water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at

their highest The colorful races are part of the

festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the

last day of Buddhist Lent in October

The narrow boats are made from massive

hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters

in length depending how many paddlers they

are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily

distinguishable by their use of bright colors and

mythical designs in the traditional local style

The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of

each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting

only the good ones to participate in their race

How to get there

Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is

connected by plane and by bus to the rest of

the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan

Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice

each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to

Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to

Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on

the service

Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan

(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8

hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)

The contestants of the races are classified into

three categories mdashlarge medium and small

boats Depending on their length each boat can

accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers

sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the

same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously

against the current to the frantic beating of a

drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern

The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying

their attempt to reach the finish line first and

the paddles churning up the river creates a

spectacular atmosphere

Son

g K

ran

in

Ch

ian

g M

ai

Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of

the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down

in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The

days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing

steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the

hot months of April and May The stifling mid-

day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out

unless necessary The buzz around town about

some festival called Song Kran is starting to

increase an underlying excitement rising

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
  2. Button 4
  3. Button 9
  4. previous
  5. next
Page 60: Thaiguru issue10

Much of the province is devoted to farming

Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still

being practised in areas of the province resulting

in a landscape where forests and fields alternate

Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside

of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature

peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich

natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the

province sees far fewer visitors than popular

neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You

can go white water rafting on the Wa River

along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim

National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay

overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes

Touring Nan

Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern

lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities

of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old

salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via

endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges

and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with

orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers

Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready

to be harvested broke through the green hills

giving a golden hue to the landscape

We encountered friendly villagers who worked

their way through the dry fields - meanwhile

singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to

supplement their meager incomes Despite their

hardship they showed us their heartwarming

hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes

with us

This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi

Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and

sparsely populated that we only passed two

cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos

difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand

nowadays

PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river

The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness

begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over

the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above

the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is

broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices

Then the carved image of a Naga becomes

visible above the water line followed by more

than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted

in red and gold colorshellip

During the year the remote provincial town

of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a

year for the annual spectacle of traditional

Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos

water artery The finals are held over two

days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos

banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite

team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in

Thailand yet relatively unknown

The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long

simple shelters where the massive dragon boats

are housed during the year Just once a year

they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos

most important sporting and social event The

event takes place right after the end of the

rainy season around early November when

water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at

their highest The colorful races are part of the

festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the

last day of Buddhist Lent in October

The narrow boats are made from massive

hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters

in length depending how many paddlers they

are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily

distinguishable by their use of bright colors and

mythical designs in the traditional local style

The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of

each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting

only the good ones to participate in their race

How to get there

Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is

connected by plane and by bus to the rest of

the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan

Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice

each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to

Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to

Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on

the service

Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan

(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8

hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)

The contestants of the races are classified into

three categories mdashlarge medium and small

boats Depending on their length each boat can

accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers

sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the

same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously

against the current to the frantic beating of a

drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern

The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying

their attempt to reach the finish line first and

the paddles churning up the river creates a

spectacular atmosphere

Son

g K

ran

in

Ch

ian

g M

ai

Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of

the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down

in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The

days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing

steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the

hot months of April and May The stifling mid-

day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out

unless necessary The buzz around town about

some festival called Song Kran is starting to

increase an underlying excitement rising

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
  2. Button 4
  3. Button 9
  4. previous
  5. next
Page 61: Thaiguru issue10

Touring Nan

Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern

lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities

of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old

salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via

endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges

and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with

orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers

Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready

to be harvested broke through the green hills

giving a golden hue to the landscape

We encountered friendly villagers who worked

their way through the dry fields - meanwhile

singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to

supplement their meager incomes Despite their

hardship they showed us their heartwarming

hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes

with us

This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi

Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and

sparsely populated that we only passed two

cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos

difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand

nowadays

PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river

The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness

begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over

the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above

the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is

broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices

Then the carved image of a Naga becomes

visible above the water line followed by more

than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted

in red and gold colorshellip

During the year the remote provincial town

of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a

year for the annual spectacle of traditional

Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos

water artery The finals are held over two

days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos

banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite

team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in

Thailand yet relatively unknown

The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long

simple shelters where the massive dragon boats

are housed during the year Just once a year

they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos

most important sporting and social event The

event takes place right after the end of the

rainy season around early November when

water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at

their highest The colorful races are part of the

festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the

last day of Buddhist Lent in October

The narrow boats are made from massive

hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters

in length depending how many paddlers they

are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily

distinguishable by their use of bright colors and

mythical designs in the traditional local style

The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of

each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting

only the good ones to participate in their race

How to get there

Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is

connected by plane and by bus to the rest of

the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan

Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice

each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to

Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to

Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on

the service

Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan

(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8

hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)

The contestants of the races are classified into

three categories mdashlarge medium and small

boats Depending on their length each boat can

accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers

sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the

same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously

against the current to the frantic beating of a

drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern

The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying

their attempt to reach the finish line first and

the paddles churning up the river creates a

spectacular atmosphere

Son

g K

ran

in

Ch

ian

g M

ai

Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of

the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down

in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The

days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing

steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the

hot months of April and May The stifling mid-

day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out

unless necessary The buzz around town about

some festival called Song Kran is starting to

increase an underlying excitement rising

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
  2. Button 4
  3. Button 9
  4. previous
  5. next
Page 62: Thaiguru issue10

PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river

The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness

begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over

the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above

the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is

broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices

Then the carved image of a Naga becomes

visible above the water line followed by more

than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted

in red and gold colorshellip

During the year the remote provincial town

of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a

year for the annual spectacle of traditional

Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos

water artery The finals are held over two

days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos

banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite

team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in

Thailand yet relatively unknown

The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long

simple shelters where the massive dragon boats

are housed during the year Just once a year

they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos

most important sporting and social event The

event takes place right after the end of the

rainy season around early November when

water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at

their highest The colorful races are part of the

festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the

last day of Buddhist Lent in October

The narrow boats are made from massive

hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters

in length depending how many paddlers they

are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily

distinguishable by their use of bright colors and

mythical designs in the traditional local style

The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of

each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting

only the good ones to participate in their race

How to get there

Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is

connected by plane and by bus to the rest of

the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan

Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice

each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to

Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to

Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on

the service

Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan

(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8

hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)

The contestants of the races are classified into

three categories mdashlarge medium and small

boats Depending on their length each boat can

accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers

sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the

same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously

against the current to the frantic beating of a

drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern

The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying

their attempt to reach the finish line first and

the paddles churning up the river creates a

spectacular atmosphere

Son

g K

ran

in

Ch

ian

g M

ai

Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of

the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down

in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The

days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing

steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the

hot months of April and May The stifling mid-

day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out

unless necessary The buzz around town about

some festival called Song Kran is starting to

increase an underlying excitement rising

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
  2. Button 4
  3. Button 9
  4. previous
  5. next
Page 63: Thaiguru issue10

The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness

begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over

the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above

the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is

broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices

Then the carved image of a Naga becomes

visible above the water line followed by more

than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted

in red and gold colorshellip

During the year the remote provincial town

of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a

year for the annual spectacle of traditional

Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos

water artery The finals are held over two

days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos

banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite

team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in

Thailand yet relatively unknown

The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long

simple shelters where the massive dragon boats

are housed during the year Just once a year

they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos

most important sporting and social event The

event takes place right after the end of the

rainy season around early November when

water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at

their highest The colorful races are part of the

festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the

last day of Buddhist Lent in October

The narrow boats are made from massive

hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters

in length depending how many paddlers they

are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily

distinguishable by their use of bright colors and

mythical designs in the traditional local style

The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of

each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting

only the good ones to participate in their race

How to get there

Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is

connected by plane and by bus to the rest of

the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan

Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice

each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to

Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to

Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on

the service

Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan

(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8

hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)

The contestants of the races are classified into

three categories mdashlarge medium and small

boats Depending on their length each boat can

accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers

sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the

same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously

against the current to the frantic beating of a

drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern

The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying

their attempt to reach the finish line first and

the paddles churning up the river creates a

spectacular atmosphere

Son

g K

ran

in

Ch

ian

g M

ai

Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of

the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down

in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The

days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing

steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the

hot months of April and May The stifling mid-

day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out

unless necessary The buzz around town about

some festival called Song Kran is starting to

increase an underlying excitement rising

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
  2. Button 4
  3. Button 9
  4. previous
  5. next
Page 64: Thaiguru issue10

During the year the remote provincial town

of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a

year for the annual spectacle of traditional

Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos

water artery The finals are held over two

days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos

banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite

team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in

Thailand yet relatively unknown

The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long

simple shelters where the massive dragon boats

are housed during the year Just once a year

they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos

most important sporting and social event The

event takes place right after the end of the

rainy season around early November when

water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at

their highest The colorful races are part of the

festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the

last day of Buddhist Lent in October

The narrow boats are made from massive

hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters

in length depending how many paddlers they

are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily

distinguishable by their use of bright colors and

mythical designs in the traditional local style

The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of

each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting

only the good ones to participate in their race

How to get there

Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is

connected by plane and by bus to the rest of

the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan

Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice

each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to

Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to

Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on

the service

Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan

(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8

hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)

The contestants of the races are classified into

three categories mdashlarge medium and small

boats Depending on their length each boat can

accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers

sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the

same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously

against the current to the frantic beating of a

drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern

The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying

their attempt to reach the finish line first and

the paddles churning up the river creates a

spectacular atmosphere

Son

g K

ran

in

Ch

ian

g M

ai

Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of

the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down

in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The

days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing

steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the

hot months of April and May The stifling mid-

day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out

unless necessary The buzz around town about

some festival called Song Kran is starting to

increase an underlying excitement rising

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
  2. Button 4
  3. Button 9
  4. previous
  5. next
Page 65: Thaiguru issue10

The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long

simple shelters where the massive dragon boats

are housed during the year Just once a year

they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos

most important sporting and social event The

event takes place right after the end of the

rainy season around early November when

water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at

their highest The colorful races are part of the

festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the

last day of Buddhist Lent in October

The narrow boats are made from massive

hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters

in length depending how many paddlers they

are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily

distinguishable by their use of bright colors and

mythical designs in the traditional local style

The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of

each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting

only the good ones to participate in their race

How to get there

Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is

connected by plane and by bus to the rest of

the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan

Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice

each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to

Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to

Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on

the service

Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan

(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8

hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)

The contestants of the races are classified into

three categories mdashlarge medium and small

boats Depending on their length each boat can

accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers

sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the

same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously

against the current to the frantic beating of a

drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern

The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying

their attempt to reach the finish line first and

the paddles churning up the river creates a

spectacular atmosphere

Son

g K

ran

in

Ch

ian

g M

ai

Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of

the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down

in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The

days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing

steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the

hot months of April and May The stifling mid-

day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out

unless necessary The buzz around town about

some festival called Song Kran is starting to

increase an underlying excitement rising

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
  2. Button 4
  3. Button 9
  4. previous
  5. next
Page 66: Thaiguru issue10

How to get there

Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is

connected by plane and by bus to the rest of

the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan

Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice

each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to

Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to

Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on

the service

Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan

(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8

hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)

The contestants of the races are classified into

three categories mdashlarge medium and small

boats Depending on their length each boat can

accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers

sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the

same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously

against the current to the frantic beating of a

drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern

The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying

their attempt to reach the finish line first and

the paddles churning up the river creates a

spectacular atmosphere

Son

g K

ran

in

Ch

ian

g M

ai

Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of

the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down

in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The

days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing

steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the

hot months of April and May The stifling mid-

day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out

unless necessary The buzz around town about

some festival called Song Kran is starting to

increase an underlying excitement rising

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
  2. Button 4
  3. Button 9
  4. previous
  5. next
Page 67: Thaiguru issue10

Son

g K

ran

in

Ch

ian

g M

ai

Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of

the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down

in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The

days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing

steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the

hot months of April and May The stifling mid-

day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out

unless necessary The buzz around town about

some festival called Song Kran is starting to

increase an underlying excitement rising

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
  2. Button 4
  3. Button 9
  4. previous
  5. next
Page 68: Thaiguru issue10

Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of

the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down

in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The

days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing

steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the

hot months of April and May The stifling mid-

day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out

unless necessary The buzz around town about

some festival called Song Kran is starting to

increase an underlying excitement rising

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
  2. Button 4
  3. Button 9
  4. previous
  5. next
Page 69: Thaiguru issue10

Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing

alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had

by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend

on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about

Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all

good fun

Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate

the Thai New Year and the planting of the new

seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where

the home is cleaned in the days prior - much

like spring cleaning in the west - families gather

together people eat and are merry and water is

sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will

friendship and celebration

This still happens in many parts of Thailand in

smaller communities where the pace of life is

slower This is a far cry from the modern-day

festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other

large cities in Thailand

Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April

until the 15th of April but usually the children

who are on summer holidays will be seen at

various points around the old city moat days

in advance swimming and playing while some

tourists wander around with their water guns

in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually

builds up into the full blown water flinging

bombardment in which thousands of people

partake ever year

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
  2. Button 4
  3. Button 9
  4. previous
  5. next
Page 70: Thaiguru issue10

Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos

virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to

go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts

The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and

their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the

festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous

task due to the huge crowds

For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there

are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of

water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so

it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and

motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride

The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
  2. Button 4
  3. Button 9
  4. previous
  5. next
Page 71: Thaiguru issue10

Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting

wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water

is traditionally only during daylight hours usually

about 10am until dusk though some parts of

town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into

the evening

If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too

heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early

and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the

sun lotions soon wash off with all the water

being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved

top is better to keep protected from the sun

All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang

Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival

So for everyone thinking about joining in then

hope you all have a fantastic time

and above all stay safe

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
  2. Button 4
  3. Button 9
  4. previous
  5. next
Page 72: Thaiguru issue10

Doi Inthanon

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
  2. Button 4
  3. Button 9
  4. previous
  5. next
Page 73: Thaiguru issue10

After working hard on one of our issues we

decided we needed a couple of days off and

what do we do when we need to relax

You guessed it we explore Thailand One

place that we had not covered yet for

Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon

Conveniently close to home and according

to the experts a place worth going to Initially

wanting to leave the cameras home we

decided to take them anyway Whether that

was a good or a bad decision you can decide

for yourself the result is on the next few

pages

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
  2. Button 4
  3. Button 9
  4. previous
  5. next
Page 74: Thaiguru issue10

Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
  2. Button 4
  3. Button 9
  4. previous
  5. next
Page 75: Thaiguru issue10

Chiang Mai has an abundance of

tattoo parlours dotted around the city

and is well known for the technical

abilities of the artists that spend their

time applying ink to skin Last month

Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find

out a bit more about the traditional art

of the bamboo tattoo

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
  2. Button 4
  3. Button 9
  4. previous
  5. next
Page 76: Thaiguru issue10

Although a sharpened length of bamboo has

been replaced by a metal needle the method

of applying the ink has remained the same for

centuries and involves the experienced artist

repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the

tatooees skin

We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by

the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into

the dermis

These are handed down by older tattooists to

younger artists Although the point of the needle

is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol

before it is dipped in the ink

Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack

charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of

weird and wonderful ingredients could go into

the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
  2. Button 4
  3. Button 9
  4. previous
  5. next
Page 77: Thaiguru issue10

Emily was having her own design tattooed onto

the side of her body when we arrived The artist

starts by transferring the outline of the picture or

pattern onto the skin

The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink

Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour

and subtle shading to be added Although

watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin

looked painful she convinced us that she was

quite comfortable

The image chosen and the position of the tattoo

on the body have traditionally had a variety of

meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might

choose a monkey because of its strength and

agility

However these days aesthetics seem to be

just as important as any symbolic meaning

Most parlours have books of traditional designs

including tigers naga serpents and eagles

Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both

spiritual and physical protection to wearer

Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives

as long as the artist is qualified to activate the

protective spells

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
  2. Button 4
  3. Button 9
  4. previous
  5. next
Page 78: Thaiguru issue10

We left Emily reclining under the tattooists

needle We were told that it would need at least

a couple of sittings before the design would

be complete Having a tattoo applied in the

traditional manner is quite an undertaking but

the results are certainly eye catching

Those who want the protection of magic tattoo

but are not keen on inking their body can opt

for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced

with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless

but we are assured that the magic remains long

after the sesame oil has disappeared

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
  2. Button 4
  3. Button 9
  4. previous
  5. next
Page 79: Thaiguru issue10

Whatrsquos New

We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days

in the 4 regions (North South East West) of

Thailand

In And Around BANGKOK offers

an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove

forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World

and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department

Store)

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-bangkok

In And Around ISAAN puts you on the

Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World

Heritage Sites

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-isaan

phuchancom

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
  2. Button 4
  3. Button 9
  4. previous
  5. next
Page 80: Thaiguru issue10

In And Around CHIANG MAI let

you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples

Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District

and experience a zip line adventure

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-chiang-mai

In And Around KOH CHANG

gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches

coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests

and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-koh-chang

In And Around PHUKET gives you a

chance to experience an island boat trip cool

cooking class zip line adventure and the Old

Town night walking tour

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-phuket

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
  2. Button 4
  3. Button 9
  4. previous
  5. next
Page 81: Thaiguru issue10

In And Around KOH SAMUI let

you cruise around the island visit other islands

enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches

coral ranges and see plentiful marine life

httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-

around-samui

These can be combined of course with our

other day tours or used as extensions before

after our round trips

We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion

Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie

tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos

200-year-old China Town district by visiting

various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-

vendors to characterful restaurants more details

here

httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown

And a special festival tour

During October 15 ndash 23 the annual

Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an

incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old

Town

The street processions focus around the five

oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang

Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but

others are visited as well as there are more

than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket

During this period we arrange a special 3 day

Festival tour more details here

httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-

festival-october-2015

One of our Blog Posts

Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the

weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but

probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the

last part is correct we decided to clarify a few

things about this sprawling market

More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-

weekend-market

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
  2. Button 4
  3. Button 9
  4. previous
  5. next
Page 82: Thaiguru issue10

copy All rights reserved

trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher

To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom

contact us

infothaigurumagazinecom

All videos in this magazine are

available in HD on our youtube channel

find us on facebook

Thai Guru Magazine is supported by

Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice

The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine

for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent

permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product

service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)

These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited

Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for

userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai

Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law

  1. Button 3
  2. Button 4
  3. Button 9
  4. previous
  5. next