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A free magazine about Thailand off the beaten track
Citation preview
Issue 10
In this issue An overview
Thai MassageTemples in Chiang Mai
Krabi A Dream DestinationFood Vegetarian Nam Prik Ong
Dear reader
when making a magazine on a relative new medium
you have to constantly be aware of new developments
in the world of digital publishing
That is why we are proud to announce issue 10 of
Thai Guru Magazine in a new format
Not only will Thai Guru now available on all devices including
desktop computers but the resolution of the photographs that
make up such an important part of our magazine is much higher
So from now on you wonrsquot need to download an app anymore
Our new PDF format is a very small file
so simply download it and enjoy
The Thai Guru Team
Vegetarian Nam Prik Ong
- 2 pieces of dried soy bean paste
- 7 dried red hot chili
- 5 shallots
- 5 cloves of garlic
- 2 cups of chopped tomatoes
- 1 cup of chopped oyster mushrooms
- 1 cup of mashed firm tofu
- 1 tbsp of chopped lemongrass
- 1 tbsp of oil
- 1 tsp of salt
- 3 tbsp of soy sauce
- 2 tsp of sugar
- frac14 cup of water
- 3 stems of coriander
- 2 tbsp of chopped spring onion
Roast chili shallots garlic and
dried soybean paste until fragrant
Put in a mortar together with
lemon grass and crush
Heat up oil in a wok Add the mixture
of the mortar Fry until fragrant
Add tomatoes mushrooms tofu and water
Add seasoning salt soy sauce and sugar
Stir and let it simmer until tomatoes
are soft and well mixed together
The taste should be little bit spicy
sour and salty
Add more seasoning to taste
Put in bowl and garnish with
coriander and spring onion
Serve with rice and fresh steamed or raw
vegetables such as cabbage
cucumber or egg plants
Enjoy
With thanks to Thai Farm Cooking School
A Morning with an Elephant Vet
A 45 minute drive through the morning traffic
heading towards Mae Taeng located to the
north of Chiang Mai on our way to visit an
elephant park One of many elephant camps or
parks around Thailand catering for the gawking
tourists taking them on elephant rides and
doing tricks like playing football or painting
pictures However few travellers ever give a
second thought about the actual welfare of
these great creatures whose natural habitat
has been eroded away Our focus today was
going to be the work of a local veterinarian who
has spent the last 4 years with the Mae Taeng
Elephant Park and Clinic running their veterinary
facility
Upon our arrival I headed off to meet with the
parks general manager Khun Nu who informed
us that their resident vet would be arriving
shortly After a short wander around the park we
headed in the direction of the medical facilities
which comprised of what I would describe
as a kind of lsquowaiting roomrsquo area for the sick
elephants a large roofed structure able to house
several of the large animals Next to this was
one of two treatment areas again a large shed
construction with a very sturdy looking steel
frame set into the concrete floor to which the
elephants can be tethered while being seen by
the vet
Approaching the waiting area a slight figure
wearing a green surgical smock could be seen
with a mahout crouched under the head of a
young female elephant treating its neck the
first patient of the day The cow as females are
known was being treated for some sores around
the neck The vet was daubing the area with
disinfectant to help prevent infection working
quickly and efficiently in silence unaware of our
presence
The vet a 28 year old woman going by the
nickname of lsquoImrsquo (a short vowel sounding i as
in it) has been working at the elephant clinic
since she graduated 4 years previously from the
Faculty of Veterinary Medicine at Chiang Mai
University after completing a 6 year veterinary
degree Her love of these majestic creatures
was the focus of her dissertation Working daily
from 9 to 5 keeps her pretty busy with the park
employing her on a full-time basis
The second elephant to be seen by Im was
housed in an older treatment area nearby This
time the problem was a cut on the bottom of its
foot caused by walking on some glass
With the elephants mahout on-hand to assist
Im first had to check to see if there was any
remaining glass in the wound This done the next
stage was cleaning the injury which was done
using a giant foot bath
The elephantrsquos mahout guided the elephant into
position so that her front feet would be standing
in the disinfecting solution But rather than just
walking the animal through the solution the
elephant had to stand patiently with its feet in the
foot bath for a whole hour
During the treatment the elephantrsquos tether was lying unsecured on the floor but she stood calmly allowing
the vet to do her task even being in some discomfort It shows how trusting these animals can be with
humans The female elephant must have known that Im was there to help her
During an average day Im will treat 4 or 5 elephants usually foot injuries and other such problems as we
witnessed that morning cleaning and disinfecting wounds to prevent infection When she does have
a quieter day Imrsquos time is taken up with the general wellbeing of the elephants with nail trimming and
administrating drugs However her work isnrsquot limited to the park elephants
On occasion elephants outside the park require help so they can contact Im who will go out to the
surrounding area and provide a mobile clinic This service is provided free of charge courtesy of the park and
is a much appreciated service to the elephants who do not have a fixed home and whose mahouts cannot
otherwise afford treatment for their animals
With the sun approaching the meridian we said our farewells and headed back to town with the peace of
mind knowing that the magnificent elephants would be in the capable hands of Im the vet who cares and
treats them day to day
International Training Massage School
On a peaceful street a short walk from Chiang
Mairsquos old city is the International Training Massage
School An airy modern building in the traditional
Lanna style welcomes beginners seeking to learn
the basics of traditional Thai massage as well as
seasoned massage professionals looking to expand
their skills
Thai Guru is well used to being on the receiving
end of a skilful pair of hands of belonging to an
experienced masseuse so were pleased to be
invited to join the students at ITM to learn a bit more
about the training that is required to perform one of
the best things about living in Thailand
Chiang Mai is a mecca for those wishing to
spend a few days a few weeks or a few months
learning the art of Nuad Boran or lsquoancient
Thai Massagersquo Massage is serious business
in this part of the world and schools like ITM
tech everything from introduction courses
to advanced teacher training There are also
some quite specific classes on offer including
pregnancy massage hot stone healing massage
and infant massage
The ITM students turn up to begin their studies
early in the morning Shoes and sandals are left
outside the building next to a decorative koi
carp pond comfortable loose fitting pyjamas
are donned feet are washed and it is off to one
of the yoga studios to settle down and the first
blessing of the day Prayers are offered up by
students and teachers to Dr Shivago Komarpaj
Buddharsquos physician and the father of Thai
massage
Traditional Thai massage is practiced without
oils unguents or lotions and both giver and
receiver keep their clothes on The therapy
involves the compression rocking stretching
and manipulation of the joints and muscles
rather than the rubbing and stroking often
employed in other forms of massage
Once the prayers and blessings have been given up it is time for the students to get themselves ready for
the dayrsquos exertions by stretching To the relaxing sounds of flute music a teacher guides the trainees through
a set of yoga moves On the morning Thai Guru visited there were fifteen students being gently told to
assume the lsquosupermanrsquo and kick their legs into the air for the lsquoreverse bicyclersquo
We were informed that the combination of rhythmic stretches traditionally used by yogis and hermits (who
probably better than anyone know the importance of a good stretch) as well as warming up the studentsrsquo
bodies help the novices to understand better what they will be doing to the bodies of those they are about
to massage
A short break for coffee and bananas in a quiet courtyard watched over by a shrine to Dr Shivago and itrsquos
back to the classroom for a demonstration of the significance of some basic Nuad Boran moves The
students gather round books with detailed diagrams open on their laps to study how to perfect moves like
lsquothe flamingorsquo and lsquothe last tangorsquo among others
The founder of the school Mr Chongkol Setthakorn takes over the class for
the serious task of making sure the students have been paying attention and
arenrsquot in the process of giving each other hernias A quick prayer is said and
the real business of bending stretching and joint crunching begins
The students we met had been training for between three and four weeks
However courses at ITM and indeed at schools across Chiang Mai can be
tailored to fit the requirements of anyone who wishes to get involved in an
activity that gives enormous pleasure to both the giver and receiver - as Mr
Settakorn astutely explains ldquoThai Massage is like a thousand gentle waves
washing over the bodyrdquo
ITM ndash International Training Massage School
599 Chang Puak Road
Soi 4 Chor
Sriphum
Muang Chiang Mai
50200 THAILAND
Phone +66-5321-8632
Mobile +66-83-763-1002
Email itmitmthaimassagecom
wwwitmthaimassagecom
Krabi dream destination
After a couple of weeks traveling through
Thailand many are looking for the
perfect location to spend their last days
of their vancation Perfection doesnrsquot
exist but dream destination Krabi is gets
close
Located in the south west of Thailand
Krabi is also thanks to its airport an easy
destination to reach
You will notice the friendly atmosphere in this
area of Thailand right away
A couple of must sees like the Emerald Pond
and the Hot Waterfall are definitely worth your
visit Imagine relaxing in a the hot waterfall
under the exotic trees
And of course an island tour is a must when
you are in Krabi
By boat you can visit Por da Koh Hong Koh Kai
and the famous Pranang cave
Khao Yai National Park
Since establishing Thai Guru Magazine
we have been eager to take our
cameras to Khao Yai National Park
Having visited the area previously
I had already enjoyed the beauty
of Khao Yai and the abundance of
wildlife to be seen there and was keen
to share it with the rest of the team
Finally at the end of January we
jumped in the car for the long drive
south from
Chiang Mai
Three hours northeast of Bangkok Khao Yai
is the oldest and third largest national park
in Thailand Grasslands evergreen forests
monsoon forests and rain forests cover more
than 2000 square kilometres of this Unesco
World Heritage site
The park is teeming with wildlife Mammals
including elephant gibbon barking deer and
guar live within the parkrsquos borders The area
is also home to carnivores such as Asian wild
dogs and tigers as well as numerous reptiles and
amphibians including king cobras pythons and
monitor lizards Nearly 400 species of bird can
be found at Khao Yai Other attractions in this
trekkersrsquo paradise include several large waterfalls
The 20 metre Haew Suwat waterfall with is
deep pool was made famous by the film lsquoThe
Beachrsquo
Day 1The road leading to the gates of Khao Yai National Park is notable for its
numerous Italian influenced restaurants hotels and guesthouses A paradise
for pizza and pasta lovers there is even a small Italian-style village with ice-
cream parlours eateries and Italian themed guesthouses Almost immediately
after entering the park we were greeted by the sight of black giant squirrels
and pig tailed macaques clamouring in the canopy all around us Our first stop
was the visitor centre where we picked up a map of the park and other useful
information Outside were several sambar deer picking through restaurant
leftovers The rest of the day was spent exploring spots in which to set up
our cameras the following day We also made the first of several walks to the
observation tower adjacent to Nong Pak Chee reservoir As well as fabulous
views of the park the tower overlooks a saltlick where all manner of wildlife
gathers to suck up vital minerals and nutrients
Day 2Khao Yai is extremely popular with visitors and we could only
book lodging within its borders for the last two days of our trip
This meant an early start so we could get into the park in time to
shoot the sunrise We were the first visitors of the day and drove
to one of the places we had explored the day before We came
across what we thought was one of the many sambar or barking
deer that roam freely around the park We decided to take a
closer look only to find we had stumbled across an Asiatic black
bear half hidden in the morning mist Having spotted us after a
few minutes the handsome creature ambled off into the forest
The dawn had barely broken and our day was already a triumph
The rest of our time was spent following gibbons various varieties
deer and innumerable brightly coloured birds
Day 3Today we were fortunate to be allowed to move
ourselves and our equipment into government-
owned lodgings within the park Our first
mission was to set our cameras up at a place
where we had heard the heavy distinctive
rushing of wings and calls of hornbills (described
by some as sounding like the puffing of a steam
locomotive) the day before
We had expected a long wait but already had
our first shots of this impressive bird in the
can before breakfast We spent many hours
photographing hornbills macaque and other
wildlife
We even stumbled upon a pack of Asian wild
dogs gathered around the carcass of a recently
killed deer We thought our wildlife encounters
for the day were over as we sat down to enjoy
dinner only to be disturbed by scuffling sounds
behind our bungalow The noise was being
made by a pair of porcupines who were not in
the least afraid of us and actually attempted to
chase us away
Day 4The day was spent exploring the trails of Khao Yai and discovering among other wildlife a magnificent
crested serpent eagle As the afternoon drew to a close we decided to take one last trip to the watchtower
From here we witnessed the gathering of a large flock of hornbills We showed some of our footage to a
friendly ranger He was particularly interested in our bear shots We were thrilled to be told that it was very
rare to see a black bear even more so when we were informed that none of the rangers had seen one for
a number of months I decided to leave the tower to find a good place to photograph the sunset Within
a matter of minutes I heard someone scream ldquoBEARrdquo and was back up the stairs in seconds There below
us taking an evening stroll through the grass just metres from where we were perched was another much
younger black bear
Our trip could not have ended better Needless
to say Thai Guru thoroughly recommends a visit
to Khao Yai National Park As already mentioned
the park is popular with both local and foreign
tourists especially on holidays and weekends
We advise that you try to visit during the week
when the park is quieter and the chance of
seeing the amazing wildlife is greater
The park has two camping grounds as well as a
few bungalows that can be booked through the
Department of National Parks Wildlife and Plant
Conservation These need to be booked well
in advance However there are also plenty of
guesthouses and hotels are to be found along
the parkrsquos boundaries
Festival of LanternsThe enchanting atmosphere of Loi Krathong
The weather is cooling down and itrsquos
that time of year again when we all
take to the waterways of Thailand and
give praise to Khongkha the water
Goddess who took care of abundant
rainfall in the past raining season
Donrsquot miss this joyful celebration with
its enchanting atmosphere that brings
one and all in Thailand together
much like Songkran
Thailandrsquos lsquoFestival of Lightsrsquo is celebrated
throughout the kingdom on the night of the
November full moon The end of the rainy
season heralds the coolest months in the
countryrsquos calendar when the river waters are
also supposed to be at their highest
Superstition replaces religion on this night as
thousands flock to the banks of the swollen
rivers and canals to release khratongs floating
tributes to the river spirits and Mother Water ndash
Phra Mae Khongkha In recent years the festival
has been revived in the ancient temples of
Thailandrsquos former capital Sukhothai
Visitors assemble in the Sukhothai Historical
Park with their banana leaf khratongs decorated
with flowers incense sticks and candles to take
part in a ceremony that dates back centuries
Sometimes a coin is added as gift to the spirits
The pretty rafts are then released onto the lake
with a wish
It was once believed that Loi Khratong
was actually created in Sukhothai by Nang
Nopphamas a lady of the court and consort
of the king In fact the celebration was adapted
by Thai Buddhists from a Brahmanical festival
adapted to honour Buddha
The khratong is meant to be a light on the
darkness of the water for Buddha A personrsquos
sins and negative thoughts are also believed to
float away with the colourful little raft Try adding
a lock of your hair for extra luck
Nearly 20 of the Northern provinces will be
showing off a dazzling selection of floats in the
Royal Khratongs Procession as well as holding a
Miss Nopphamat beauty contest
A competition is held for the most beautifully
designed khratong as well as plenty of other
Sukhothai arts and cultural performances
The Light-and-Sound Presentation at Wat
Mahathat explains the history and origins of
Sukhothai and Loi Khratong through dance
music prayer combat displays light effects and
fireworks No Loi Khratong would be complete
without fireworks and thankfully the Thais are
not shy when it comes to blowing things up in
the sky
Tra Kuan pond is the place to be for the floating
of the Royal Khratongs followed by more
firmament-filling pyrotechnics Wat Chana
Songkram is the venue for the Mahachat
sermon Khon Marked Dance and a Thai
classical music performance
Thai Guru decided to travel from Chiang Mai
to Sukhotai for this yearrsquos festivities Although
the heavens decided to open for most of the
celebrations on the final day the rain could not
dampen the celebrations and the spectacle was
jaw dropping
The only thing that was missing due to the rain
was a sky filled with khom loi the sky lanterns
usually released into the firmament in their
hundreds
Although the festivities officially last for the best
part of a week it is the last three days that are
the busiest
Visitors can join in with a range of activities
including fruit carving or just wander around the
historic park listening to live traditional music
watching Thai martial arts or join the parade
of dancers musicians and beauty contestants
all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured
costumes
There are numerous places to stay for the
duration of the festival but it is advisable to
book ahead if you can because this is a very
popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north
from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai
Chiang Mai Temples
A visit to a temple in Thailand is
unavoidable They are everywhere
We at Thai Guru are well aware that
because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can
quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang
Mai With this in mind (and because
the city is overflowing with hundreds
of them) we have chosen a few of
our favourites we hope are slightly
alternative to the ones on the usual
tourist itinerary
Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to
the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its
latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of
the skills of the local silversmiths Like many
of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was
established several centuries ago The ubosoth
or ordination hall is an intricately designed
silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in
the sunlight
The area around Wua Lai has been the home to
silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past
couple of centuries who are famed throughout
the kingdom for creating detailed embossed
relief patterns on the objects they create
something that is immediately evident and
celebrated at Wat Srisuphan
The larger more traditionally decorated red blue
and gold prayer hall also contains impressive
silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos
life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft
museum
Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the
artisans at work and the temple has its own
silver-working school where apprentices are
trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive
Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved
in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-
robed residents of the temple improve their
linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also
available
Unfortunately women are not allowed to
enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this
is explained on a sign outside the wording of
which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in
the monastic boundary many precious things
incantations amulets and other holy objects
were buried over 500 years ago Entering
inside this area may deteriorated the place or
otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most
of the interior can be appreciated from the
doorway
Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous
for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged
Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai
Due to its being less well advertised than its
neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham
is often a more peaceful temple from which
to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang
Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist
Lent when the place was alive with worshippers
Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once
the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic
giants Following a visit from the Buddha the
giants decided to mend their ways stop eating
their neighbours and convert to Buddhism
For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and
offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the
templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally
constructed towards the end of the 7th century
Although the temple fell into disrepair over the
centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered
a chamber containing a number of Buddha
images The discovery led to the revitalisation of
this mountain top temple
The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are
guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured
sword-wielding warriors The courtyard
overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and
bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of
food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the
road leading to the temple
Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-
west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek
and easily accessible by car or taxi
Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai
was being established the name translates
as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably
because it was used to cast Buddha images for
its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The
entrance to the temple is through a small but
intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos
assembly hall is notable because it is one of the
only viharns of its type constructed solely from
teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a
superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock
astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference
to the king who once used the wooden hall as
his palace The gilded image features mythical
creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured
glass
The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite
from the busy road outside Wooden boxes
contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm
leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a
large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors
Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks
like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a
small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less
imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo
temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru
recommends a quick visit if you are passing
Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous
temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi
Luang
The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the
largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it
was damaged either by an earthquake in the
16th century or cannon fire from the guns
of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese
in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO
funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps
up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga
serpents and a group of five elephants (only the
one without a trunk or ears partially survived
whatever caused the structure to collapse the
others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi
was also once home to one of the most revered
religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald
Buddha Although the original now resides in
Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and
once again looks out over the city from a niche
on the east side of the structure
Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and
now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly
hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance
is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a
great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar
housed in a building at the base of the tree
Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although
one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few
alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed
Mae Hong Son
It is said that Mae Hong Son is the
most authentic and mountainous
province of Thailand For Thai Guru a
good reason to explore this province
side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai
province
Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of
Thailand The northern most part of this
province is at a distance of 924 km from
Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province
in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son
borders Myanmar On the south and east side it
borders Tak and Chiang Mai province
We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast
on the 108 road The scenery is woody and
mountainous so far so good And as we leave
the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek
for wildlife and beautiful landscapes
The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage
is that our average speed drops to less than
15 km hour No worries when you do trips
like these the clock stops and the only thing
on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning
landscapes that unfold before your eyes
The main road is well paved But as you might
understand we regularly go off road
This is the best way to come into contact with
locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo
While we are standing somewhere taking in the
beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a
falcon calling
A short walk through the forrest the sound
stops and we decide to sit down for some
water and well earned rest After a short while I
hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo
There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters
above us a white rumped falcon
Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras
it stays there and even when we start making
noises because we want to film it in flight it
takes itrsquos time
Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of
Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They
cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more
Of course they also have their own cattle And
walking through one of their small villages they
are very friendly and hospitable
It has to be said it is never smart to enter
a community or people with your camera
as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask
the people if they mind if you taking their
photograph or want to film their daily life
In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to
the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean
and offers a nice variety food on the terrace
with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city
where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists
Really nice to stroll down the walking street and
find food or a nice souvenir People are very
friendly as usual
From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae
Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an
average speed of 15 km hour
Halfway we jump out of the car into a river
Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to
keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn
but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around
without it
Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome
us and are gladly willing to allow us to make
photographs and film them
In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early
morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises
For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum
After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark
Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon
So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team
ChinatownBangkok
Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese
people in big cities around the world
Manhattan San Francisco Manilla
Paris and Boston have them and
more keep being officially recognised
in their role as historical and touristic
center every year Even places like
Dubai and Las Vegas have modern
day versions of this phenomenon
As soon as you pass under one of the famous
large red entrance arches you arrive in a
complete different world
A world that is paradise for photographers
A couple of the photographers in the Thai
Guru team decided to spend some time in the
Bangkok version of Chinatown
If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for
some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at
Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim
Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat
SLEEPY NANA dream destination
Relatively unknown and uncrowded
Nan has it all This gem of a province
hides an abundance of cultural and
natural attractions ancient temples
pristine forests rivers mountain
peaks but what strikes you most is
its omnipresent feel of an untroubled
authentic way of life
Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings
you this genuine feel in pictures and footage
For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of
Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant
nature and the nature of its people show
Thailand - as is often said before hordes of
tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas
it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan
managed to escape this proces but will it stay
that way Nan shares most of its border with
neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening
of the border and beyond towards China it is to
be expected that it will ultimately become an
important gateway for trade and tourism
Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town
and the countryside will enchant you and the natural
cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy
for at least a couple of days The town along the banks
of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base
to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night
life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous
temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue
influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The
great surroundings can best be explored by renting a
motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo
Much of the province is devoted to farming
Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still
being practised in areas of the province resulting
in a landscape where forests and fields alternate
Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside
of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature
peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich
natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the
province sees far fewer visitors than popular
neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You
can go white water rafting on the Wa River
along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim
National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay
overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes
Touring Nan
Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern
lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities
of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old
salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via
endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges
and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with
orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers
Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready
to be harvested broke through the green hills
giving a golden hue to the landscape
We encountered friendly villagers who worked
their way through the dry fields - meanwhile
singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to
supplement their meager incomes Despite their
hardship they showed us their heartwarming
hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes
with us
This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi
Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and
sparsely populated that we only passed two
cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos
difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand
nowadays
PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river
The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness
begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over
the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above
the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is
broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices
Then the carved image of a Naga becomes
visible above the water line followed by more
than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted
in red and gold colorshellip
During the year the remote provincial town
of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a
year for the annual spectacle of traditional
Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos
water artery The finals are held over two
days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos
banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite
team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in
Thailand yet relatively unknown
The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long
simple shelters where the massive dragon boats
are housed during the year Just once a year
they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos
most important sporting and social event The
event takes place right after the end of the
rainy season around early November when
water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at
their highest The colorful races are part of the
festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the
last day of Buddhist Lent in October
The narrow boats are made from massive
hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters
in length depending how many paddlers they
are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily
distinguishable by their use of bright colors and
mythical designs in the traditional local style
The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of
each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting
only the good ones to participate in their race
How to get there
Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is
connected by plane and by bus to the rest of
the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan
Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice
each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to
Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to
Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on
the service
Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan
(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8
hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)
The contestants of the races are classified into
three categories mdashlarge medium and small
boats Depending on their length each boat can
accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers
sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the
same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously
against the current to the frantic beating of a
drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern
The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying
their attempt to reach the finish line first and
the paddles churning up the river creates a
spectacular atmosphere
Son
g K
ran
in
Ch
ian
g M
ai
Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of
the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down
in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The
days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing
steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the
hot months of April and May The stifling mid-
day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out
unless necessary The buzz around town about
some festival called Song Kran is starting to
increase an underlying excitement rising
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
contact us
infothaigurumagazinecom
All videos in this magazine are
available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
Dear reader
when making a magazine on a relative new medium
you have to constantly be aware of new developments
in the world of digital publishing
That is why we are proud to announce issue 10 of
Thai Guru Magazine in a new format
Not only will Thai Guru now available on all devices including
desktop computers but the resolution of the photographs that
make up such an important part of our magazine is much higher
So from now on you wonrsquot need to download an app anymore
Our new PDF format is a very small file
so simply download it and enjoy
The Thai Guru Team
Vegetarian Nam Prik Ong
- 2 pieces of dried soy bean paste
- 7 dried red hot chili
- 5 shallots
- 5 cloves of garlic
- 2 cups of chopped tomatoes
- 1 cup of chopped oyster mushrooms
- 1 cup of mashed firm tofu
- 1 tbsp of chopped lemongrass
- 1 tbsp of oil
- 1 tsp of salt
- 3 tbsp of soy sauce
- 2 tsp of sugar
- frac14 cup of water
- 3 stems of coriander
- 2 tbsp of chopped spring onion
Roast chili shallots garlic and
dried soybean paste until fragrant
Put in a mortar together with
lemon grass and crush
Heat up oil in a wok Add the mixture
of the mortar Fry until fragrant
Add tomatoes mushrooms tofu and water
Add seasoning salt soy sauce and sugar
Stir and let it simmer until tomatoes
are soft and well mixed together
The taste should be little bit spicy
sour and salty
Add more seasoning to taste
Put in bowl and garnish with
coriander and spring onion
Serve with rice and fresh steamed or raw
vegetables such as cabbage
cucumber or egg plants
Enjoy
With thanks to Thai Farm Cooking School
A Morning with an Elephant Vet
A 45 minute drive through the morning traffic
heading towards Mae Taeng located to the
north of Chiang Mai on our way to visit an
elephant park One of many elephant camps or
parks around Thailand catering for the gawking
tourists taking them on elephant rides and
doing tricks like playing football or painting
pictures However few travellers ever give a
second thought about the actual welfare of
these great creatures whose natural habitat
has been eroded away Our focus today was
going to be the work of a local veterinarian who
has spent the last 4 years with the Mae Taeng
Elephant Park and Clinic running their veterinary
facility
Upon our arrival I headed off to meet with the
parks general manager Khun Nu who informed
us that their resident vet would be arriving
shortly After a short wander around the park we
headed in the direction of the medical facilities
which comprised of what I would describe
as a kind of lsquowaiting roomrsquo area for the sick
elephants a large roofed structure able to house
several of the large animals Next to this was
one of two treatment areas again a large shed
construction with a very sturdy looking steel
frame set into the concrete floor to which the
elephants can be tethered while being seen by
the vet
Approaching the waiting area a slight figure
wearing a green surgical smock could be seen
with a mahout crouched under the head of a
young female elephant treating its neck the
first patient of the day The cow as females are
known was being treated for some sores around
the neck The vet was daubing the area with
disinfectant to help prevent infection working
quickly and efficiently in silence unaware of our
presence
The vet a 28 year old woman going by the
nickname of lsquoImrsquo (a short vowel sounding i as
in it) has been working at the elephant clinic
since she graduated 4 years previously from the
Faculty of Veterinary Medicine at Chiang Mai
University after completing a 6 year veterinary
degree Her love of these majestic creatures
was the focus of her dissertation Working daily
from 9 to 5 keeps her pretty busy with the park
employing her on a full-time basis
The second elephant to be seen by Im was
housed in an older treatment area nearby This
time the problem was a cut on the bottom of its
foot caused by walking on some glass
With the elephants mahout on-hand to assist
Im first had to check to see if there was any
remaining glass in the wound This done the next
stage was cleaning the injury which was done
using a giant foot bath
The elephantrsquos mahout guided the elephant into
position so that her front feet would be standing
in the disinfecting solution But rather than just
walking the animal through the solution the
elephant had to stand patiently with its feet in the
foot bath for a whole hour
During the treatment the elephantrsquos tether was lying unsecured on the floor but she stood calmly allowing
the vet to do her task even being in some discomfort It shows how trusting these animals can be with
humans The female elephant must have known that Im was there to help her
During an average day Im will treat 4 or 5 elephants usually foot injuries and other such problems as we
witnessed that morning cleaning and disinfecting wounds to prevent infection When she does have
a quieter day Imrsquos time is taken up with the general wellbeing of the elephants with nail trimming and
administrating drugs However her work isnrsquot limited to the park elephants
On occasion elephants outside the park require help so they can contact Im who will go out to the
surrounding area and provide a mobile clinic This service is provided free of charge courtesy of the park and
is a much appreciated service to the elephants who do not have a fixed home and whose mahouts cannot
otherwise afford treatment for their animals
With the sun approaching the meridian we said our farewells and headed back to town with the peace of
mind knowing that the magnificent elephants would be in the capable hands of Im the vet who cares and
treats them day to day
International Training Massage School
On a peaceful street a short walk from Chiang
Mairsquos old city is the International Training Massage
School An airy modern building in the traditional
Lanna style welcomes beginners seeking to learn
the basics of traditional Thai massage as well as
seasoned massage professionals looking to expand
their skills
Thai Guru is well used to being on the receiving
end of a skilful pair of hands of belonging to an
experienced masseuse so were pleased to be
invited to join the students at ITM to learn a bit more
about the training that is required to perform one of
the best things about living in Thailand
Chiang Mai is a mecca for those wishing to
spend a few days a few weeks or a few months
learning the art of Nuad Boran or lsquoancient
Thai Massagersquo Massage is serious business
in this part of the world and schools like ITM
tech everything from introduction courses
to advanced teacher training There are also
some quite specific classes on offer including
pregnancy massage hot stone healing massage
and infant massage
The ITM students turn up to begin their studies
early in the morning Shoes and sandals are left
outside the building next to a decorative koi
carp pond comfortable loose fitting pyjamas
are donned feet are washed and it is off to one
of the yoga studios to settle down and the first
blessing of the day Prayers are offered up by
students and teachers to Dr Shivago Komarpaj
Buddharsquos physician and the father of Thai
massage
Traditional Thai massage is practiced without
oils unguents or lotions and both giver and
receiver keep their clothes on The therapy
involves the compression rocking stretching
and manipulation of the joints and muscles
rather than the rubbing and stroking often
employed in other forms of massage
Once the prayers and blessings have been given up it is time for the students to get themselves ready for
the dayrsquos exertions by stretching To the relaxing sounds of flute music a teacher guides the trainees through
a set of yoga moves On the morning Thai Guru visited there were fifteen students being gently told to
assume the lsquosupermanrsquo and kick their legs into the air for the lsquoreverse bicyclersquo
We were informed that the combination of rhythmic stretches traditionally used by yogis and hermits (who
probably better than anyone know the importance of a good stretch) as well as warming up the studentsrsquo
bodies help the novices to understand better what they will be doing to the bodies of those they are about
to massage
A short break for coffee and bananas in a quiet courtyard watched over by a shrine to Dr Shivago and itrsquos
back to the classroom for a demonstration of the significance of some basic Nuad Boran moves The
students gather round books with detailed diagrams open on their laps to study how to perfect moves like
lsquothe flamingorsquo and lsquothe last tangorsquo among others
The founder of the school Mr Chongkol Setthakorn takes over the class for
the serious task of making sure the students have been paying attention and
arenrsquot in the process of giving each other hernias A quick prayer is said and
the real business of bending stretching and joint crunching begins
The students we met had been training for between three and four weeks
However courses at ITM and indeed at schools across Chiang Mai can be
tailored to fit the requirements of anyone who wishes to get involved in an
activity that gives enormous pleasure to both the giver and receiver - as Mr
Settakorn astutely explains ldquoThai Massage is like a thousand gentle waves
washing over the bodyrdquo
ITM ndash International Training Massage School
599 Chang Puak Road
Soi 4 Chor
Sriphum
Muang Chiang Mai
50200 THAILAND
Phone +66-5321-8632
Mobile +66-83-763-1002
Email itmitmthaimassagecom
wwwitmthaimassagecom
Krabi dream destination
After a couple of weeks traveling through
Thailand many are looking for the
perfect location to spend their last days
of their vancation Perfection doesnrsquot
exist but dream destination Krabi is gets
close
Located in the south west of Thailand
Krabi is also thanks to its airport an easy
destination to reach
You will notice the friendly atmosphere in this
area of Thailand right away
A couple of must sees like the Emerald Pond
and the Hot Waterfall are definitely worth your
visit Imagine relaxing in a the hot waterfall
under the exotic trees
And of course an island tour is a must when
you are in Krabi
By boat you can visit Por da Koh Hong Koh Kai
and the famous Pranang cave
Khao Yai National Park
Since establishing Thai Guru Magazine
we have been eager to take our
cameras to Khao Yai National Park
Having visited the area previously
I had already enjoyed the beauty
of Khao Yai and the abundance of
wildlife to be seen there and was keen
to share it with the rest of the team
Finally at the end of January we
jumped in the car for the long drive
south from
Chiang Mai
Three hours northeast of Bangkok Khao Yai
is the oldest and third largest national park
in Thailand Grasslands evergreen forests
monsoon forests and rain forests cover more
than 2000 square kilometres of this Unesco
World Heritage site
The park is teeming with wildlife Mammals
including elephant gibbon barking deer and
guar live within the parkrsquos borders The area
is also home to carnivores such as Asian wild
dogs and tigers as well as numerous reptiles and
amphibians including king cobras pythons and
monitor lizards Nearly 400 species of bird can
be found at Khao Yai Other attractions in this
trekkersrsquo paradise include several large waterfalls
The 20 metre Haew Suwat waterfall with is
deep pool was made famous by the film lsquoThe
Beachrsquo
Day 1The road leading to the gates of Khao Yai National Park is notable for its
numerous Italian influenced restaurants hotels and guesthouses A paradise
for pizza and pasta lovers there is even a small Italian-style village with ice-
cream parlours eateries and Italian themed guesthouses Almost immediately
after entering the park we were greeted by the sight of black giant squirrels
and pig tailed macaques clamouring in the canopy all around us Our first stop
was the visitor centre where we picked up a map of the park and other useful
information Outside were several sambar deer picking through restaurant
leftovers The rest of the day was spent exploring spots in which to set up
our cameras the following day We also made the first of several walks to the
observation tower adjacent to Nong Pak Chee reservoir As well as fabulous
views of the park the tower overlooks a saltlick where all manner of wildlife
gathers to suck up vital minerals and nutrients
Day 2Khao Yai is extremely popular with visitors and we could only
book lodging within its borders for the last two days of our trip
This meant an early start so we could get into the park in time to
shoot the sunrise We were the first visitors of the day and drove
to one of the places we had explored the day before We came
across what we thought was one of the many sambar or barking
deer that roam freely around the park We decided to take a
closer look only to find we had stumbled across an Asiatic black
bear half hidden in the morning mist Having spotted us after a
few minutes the handsome creature ambled off into the forest
The dawn had barely broken and our day was already a triumph
The rest of our time was spent following gibbons various varieties
deer and innumerable brightly coloured birds
Day 3Today we were fortunate to be allowed to move
ourselves and our equipment into government-
owned lodgings within the park Our first
mission was to set our cameras up at a place
where we had heard the heavy distinctive
rushing of wings and calls of hornbills (described
by some as sounding like the puffing of a steam
locomotive) the day before
We had expected a long wait but already had
our first shots of this impressive bird in the
can before breakfast We spent many hours
photographing hornbills macaque and other
wildlife
We even stumbled upon a pack of Asian wild
dogs gathered around the carcass of a recently
killed deer We thought our wildlife encounters
for the day were over as we sat down to enjoy
dinner only to be disturbed by scuffling sounds
behind our bungalow The noise was being
made by a pair of porcupines who were not in
the least afraid of us and actually attempted to
chase us away
Day 4The day was spent exploring the trails of Khao Yai and discovering among other wildlife a magnificent
crested serpent eagle As the afternoon drew to a close we decided to take one last trip to the watchtower
From here we witnessed the gathering of a large flock of hornbills We showed some of our footage to a
friendly ranger He was particularly interested in our bear shots We were thrilled to be told that it was very
rare to see a black bear even more so when we were informed that none of the rangers had seen one for
a number of months I decided to leave the tower to find a good place to photograph the sunset Within
a matter of minutes I heard someone scream ldquoBEARrdquo and was back up the stairs in seconds There below
us taking an evening stroll through the grass just metres from where we were perched was another much
younger black bear
Our trip could not have ended better Needless
to say Thai Guru thoroughly recommends a visit
to Khao Yai National Park As already mentioned
the park is popular with both local and foreign
tourists especially on holidays and weekends
We advise that you try to visit during the week
when the park is quieter and the chance of
seeing the amazing wildlife is greater
The park has two camping grounds as well as a
few bungalows that can be booked through the
Department of National Parks Wildlife and Plant
Conservation These need to be booked well
in advance However there are also plenty of
guesthouses and hotels are to be found along
the parkrsquos boundaries
Festival of LanternsThe enchanting atmosphere of Loi Krathong
The weather is cooling down and itrsquos
that time of year again when we all
take to the waterways of Thailand and
give praise to Khongkha the water
Goddess who took care of abundant
rainfall in the past raining season
Donrsquot miss this joyful celebration with
its enchanting atmosphere that brings
one and all in Thailand together
much like Songkran
Thailandrsquos lsquoFestival of Lightsrsquo is celebrated
throughout the kingdom on the night of the
November full moon The end of the rainy
season heralds the coolest months in the
countryrsquos calendar when the river waters are
also supposed to be at their highest
Superstition replaces religion on this night as
thousands flock to the banks of the swollen
rivers and canals to release khratongs floating
tributes to the river spirits and Mother Water ndash
Phra Mae Khongkha In recent years the festival
has been revived in the ancient temples of
Thailandrsquos former capital Sukhothai
Visitors assemble in the Sukhothai Historical
Park with their banana leaf khratongs decorated
with flowers incense sticks and candles to take
part in a ceremony that dates back centuries
Sometimes a coin is added as gift to the spirits
The pretty rafts are then released onto the lake
with a wish
It was once believed that Loi Khratong
was actually created in Sukhothai by Nang
Nopphamas a lady of the court and consort
of the king In fact the celebration was adapted
by Thai Buddhists from a Brahmanical festival
adapted to honour Buddha
The khratong is meant to be a light on the
darkness of the water for Buddha A personrsquos
sins and negative thoughts are also believed to
float away with the colourful little raft Try adding
a lock of your hair for extra luck
Nearly 20 of the Northern provinces will be
showing off a dazzling selection of floats in the
Royal Khratongs Procession as well as holding a
Miss Nopphamat beauty contest
A competition is held for the most beautifully
designed khratong as well as plenty of other
Sukhothai arts and cultural performances
The Light-and-Sound Presentation at Wat
Mahathat explains the history and origins of
Sukhothai and Loi Khratong through dance
music prayer combat displays light effects and
fireworks No Loi Khratong would be complete
without fireworks and thankfully the Thais are
not shy when it comes to blowing things up in
the sky
Tra Kuan pond is the place to be for the floating
of the Royal Khratongs followed by more
firmament-filling pyrotechnics Wat Chana
Songkram is the venue for the Mahachat
sermon Khon Marked Dance and a Thai
classical music performance
Thai Guru decided to travel from Chiang Mai
to Sukhotai for this yearrsquos festivities Although
the heavens decided to open for most of the
celebrations on the final day the rain could not
dampen the celebrations and the spectacle was
jaw dropping
The only thing that was missing due to the rain
was a sky filled with khom loi the sky lanterns
usually released into the firmament in their
hundreds
Although the festivities officially last for the best
part of a week it is the last three days that are
the busiest
Visitors can join in with a range of activities
including fruit carving or just wander around the
historic park listening to live traditional music
watching Thai martial arts or join the parade
of dancers musicians and beauty contestants
all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured
costumes
There are numerous places to stay for the
duration of the festival but it is advisable to
book ahead if you can because this is a very
popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north
from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai
Chiang Mai Temples
A visit to a temple in Thailand is
unavoidable They are everywhere
We at Thai Guru are well aware that
because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can
quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang
Mai With this in mind (and because
the city is overflowing with hundreds
of them) we have chosen a few of
our favourites we hope are slightly
alternative to the ones on the usual
tourist itinerary
Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to
the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its
latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of
the skills of the local silversmiths Like many
of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was
established several centuries ago The ubosoth
or ordination hall is an intricately designed
silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in
the sunlight
The area around Wua Lai has been the home to
silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past
couple of centuries who are famed throughout
the kingdom for creating detailed embossed
relief patterns on the objects they create
something that is immediately evident and
celebrated at Wat Srisuphan
The larger more traditionally decorated red blue
and gold prayer hall also contains impressive
silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos
life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft
museum
Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the
artisans at work and the temple has its own
silver-working school where apprentices are
trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive
Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved
in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-
robed residents of the temple improve their
linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also
available
Unfortunately women are not allowed to
enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this
is explained on a sign outside the wording of
which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in
the monastic boundary many precious things
incantations amulets and other holy objects
were buried over 500 years ago Entering
inside this area may deteriorated the place or
otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most
of the interior can be appreciated from the
doorway
Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous
for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged
Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai
Due to its being less well advertised than its
neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham
is often a more peaceful temple from which
to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang
Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist
Lent when the place was alive with worshippers
Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once
the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic
giants Following a visit from the Buddha the
giants decided to mend their ways stop eating
their neighbours and convert to Buddhism
For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and
offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the
templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally
constructed towards the end of the 7th century
Although the temple fell into disrepair over the
centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered
a chamber containing a number of Buddha
images The discovery led to the revitalisation of
this mountain top temple
The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are
guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured
sword-wielding warriors The courtyard
overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and
bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of
food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the
road leading to the temple
Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-
west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek
and easily accessible by car or taxi
Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai
was being established the name translates
as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably
because it was used to cast Buddha images for
its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The
entrance to the temple is through a small but
intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos
assembly hall is notable because it is one of the
only viharns of its type constructed solely from
teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a
superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock
astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference
to the king who once used the wooden hall as
his palace The gilded image features mythical
creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured
glass
The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite
from the busy road outside Wooden boxes
contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm
leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a
large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors
Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks
like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a
small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less
imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo
temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru
recommends a quick visit if you are passing
Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous
temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi
Luang
The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the
largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it
was damaged either by an earthquake in the
16th century or cannon fire from the guns
of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese
in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO
funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps
up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga
serpents and a group of five elephants (only the
one without a trunk or ears partially survived
whatever caused the structure to collapse the
others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi
was also once home to one of the most revered
religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald
Buddha Although the original now resides in
Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and
once again looks out over the city from a niche
on the east side of the structure
Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and
now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly
hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance
is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a
great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar
housed in a building at the base of the tree
Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although
one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few
alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed
Mae Hong Son
It is said that Mae Hong Son is the
most authentic and mountainous
province of Thailand For Thai Guru a
good reason to explore this province
side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai
province
Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of
Thailand The northern most part of this
province is at a distance of 924 km from
Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province
in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son
borders Myanmar On the south and east side it
borders Tak and Chiang Mai province
We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast
on the 108 road The scenery is woody and
mountainous so far so good And as we leave
the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek
for wildlife and beautiful landscapes
The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage
is that our average speed drops to less than
15 km hour No worries when you do trips
like these the clock stops and the only thing
on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning
landscapes that unfold before your eyes
The main road is well paved But as you might
understand we regularly go off road
This is the best way to come into contact with
locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo
While we are standing somewhere taking in the
beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a
falcon calling
A short walk through the forrest the sound
stops and we decide to sit down for some
water and well earned rest After a short while I
hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo
There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters
above us a white rumped falcon
Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras
it stays there and even when we start making
noises because we want to film it in flight it
takes itrsquos time
Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of
Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They
cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more
Of course they also have their own cattle And
walking through one of their small villages they
are very friendly and hospitable
It has to be said it is never smart to enter
a community or people with your camera
as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask
the people if they mind if you taking their
photograph or want to film their daily life
In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to
the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean
and offers a nice variety food on the terrace
with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city
where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists
Really nice to stroll down the walking street and
find food or a nice souvenir People are very
friendly as usual
From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae
Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an
average speed of 15 km hour
Halfway we jump out of the car into a river
Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to
keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn
but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around
without it
Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome
us and are gladly willing to allow us to make
photographs and film them
In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early
morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises
For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum
After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark
Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon
So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team
ChinatownBangkok
Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese
people in big cities around the world
Manhattan San Francisco Manilla
Paris and Boston have them and
more keep being officially recognised
in their role as historical and touristic
center every year Even places like
Dubai and Las Vegas have modern
day versions of this phenomenon
As soon as you pass under one of the famous
large red entrance arches you arrive in a
complete different world
A world that is paradise for photographers
A couple of the photographers in the Thai
Guru team decided to spend some time in the
Bangkok version of Chinatown
If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for
some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at
Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim
Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat
SLEEPY NANA dream destination
Relatively unknown and uncrowded
Nan has it all This gem of a province
hides an abundance of cultural and
natural attractions ancient temples
pristine forests rivers mountain
peaks but what strikes you most is
its omnipresent feel of an untroubled
authentic way of life
Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings
you this genuine feel in pictures and footage
For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of
Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant
nature and the nature of its people show
Thailand - as is often said before hordes of
tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas
it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan
managed to escape this proces but will it stay
that way Nan shares most of its border with
neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening
of the border and beyond towards China it is to
be expected that it will ultimately become an
important gateway for trade and tourism
Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town
and the countryside will enchant you and the natural
cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy
for at least a couple of days The town along the banks
of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base
to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night
life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous
temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue
influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The
great surroundings can best be explored by renting a
motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo
Much of the province is devoted to farming
Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still
being practised in areas of the province resulting
in a landscape where forests and fields alternate
Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside
of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature
peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich
natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the
province sees far fewer visitors than popular
neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You
can go white water rafting on the Wa River
along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim
National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay
overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes
Touring Nan
Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern
lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities
of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old
salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via
endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges
and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with
orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers
Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready
to be harvested broke through the green hills
giving a golden hue to the landscape
We encountered friendly villagers who worked
their way through the dry fields - meanwhile
singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to
supplement their meager incomes Despite their
hardship they showed us their heartwarming
hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes
with us
This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi
Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and
sparsely populated that we only passed two
cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos
difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand
nowadays
PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river
The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness
begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over
the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above
the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is
broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices
Then the carved image of a Naga becomes
visible above the water line followed by more
than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted
in red and gold colorshellip
During the year the remote provincial town
of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a
year for the annual spectacle of traditional
Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos
water artery The finals are held over two
days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos
banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite
team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in
Thailand yet relatively unknown
The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long
simple shelters where the massive dragon boats
are housed during the year Just once a year
they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos
most important sporting and social event The
event takes place right after the end of the
rainy season around early November when
water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at
their highest The colorful races are part of the
festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the
last day of Buddhist Lent in October
The narrow boats are made from massive
hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters
in length depending how many paddlers they
are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily
distinguishable by their use of bright colors and
mythical designs in the traditional local style
The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of
each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting
only the good ones to participate in their race
How to get there
Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is
connected by plane and by bus to the rest of
the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan
Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice
each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to
Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to
Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on
the service
Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan
(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8
hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)
The contestants of the races are classified into
three categories mdashlarge medium and small
boats Depending on their length each boat can
accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers
sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the
same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously
against the current to the frantic beating of a
drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern
The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying
their attempt to reach the finish line first and
the paddles churning up the river creates a
spectacular atmosphere
Son
g K
ran
in
Ch
ian
g M
ai
Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of
the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down
in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The
days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing
steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the
hot months of April and May The stifling mid-
day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out
unless necessary The buzz around town about
some festival called Song Kran is starting to
increase an underlying excitement rising
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
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To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
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The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
Vegetarian Nam Prik Ong
- 2 pieces of dried soy bean paste
- 7 dried red hot chili
- 5 shallots
- 5 cloves of garlic
- 2 cups of chopped tomatoes
- 1 cup of chopped oyster mushrooms
- 1 cup of mashed firm tofu
- 1 tbsp of chopped lemongrass
- 1 tbsp of oil
- 1 tsp of salt
- 3 tbsp of soy sauce
- 2 tsp of sugar
- frac14 cup of water
- 3 stems of coriander
- 2 tbsp of chopped spring onion
Roast chili shallots garlic and
dried soybean paste until fragrant
Put in a mortar together with
lemon grass and crush
Heat up oil in a wok Add the mixture
of the mortar Fry until fragrant
Add tomatoes mushrooms tofu and water
Add seasoning salt soy sauce and sugar
Stir and let it simmer until tomatoes
are soft and well mixed together
The taste should be little bit spicy
sour and salty
Add more seasoning to taste
Put in bowl and garnish with
coriander and spring onion
Serve with rice and fresh steamed or raw
vegetables such as cabbage
cucumber or egg plants
Enjoy
With thanks to Thai Farm Cooking School
A Morning with an Elephant Vet
A 45 minute drive through the morning traffic
heading towards Mae Taeng located to the
north of Chiang Mai on our way to visit an
elephant park One of many elephant camps or
parks around Thailand catering for the gawking
tourists taking them on elephant rides and
doing tricks like playing football or painting
pictures However few travellers ever give a
second thought about the actual welfare of
these great creatures whose natural habitat
has been eroded away Our focus today was
going to be the work of a local veterinarian who
has spent the last 4 years with the Mae Taeng
Elephant Park and Clinic running their veterinary
facility
Upon our arrival I headed off to meet with the
parks general manager Khun Nu who informed
us that their resident vet would be arriving
shortly After a short wander around the park we
headed in the direction of the medical facilities
which comprised of what I would describe
as a kind of lsquowaiting roomrsquo area for the sick
elephants a large roofed structure able to house
several of the large animals Next to this was
one of two treatment areas again a large shed
construction with a very sturdy looking steel
frame set into the concrete floor to which the
elephants can be tethered while being seen by
the vet
Approaching the waiting area a slight figure
wearing a green surgical smock could be seen
with a mahout crouched under the head of a
young female elephant treating its neck the
first patient of the day The cow as females are
known was being treated for some sores around
the neck The vet was daubing the area with
disinfectant to help prevent infection working
quickly and efficiently in silence unaware of our
presence
The vet a 28 year old woman going by the
nickname of lsquoImrsquo (a short vowel sounding i as
in it) has been working at the elephant clinic
since she graduated 4 years previously from the
Faculty of Veterinary Medicine at Chiang Mai
University after completing a 6 year veterinary
degree Her love of these majestic creatures
was the focus of her dissertation Working daily
from 9 to 5 keeps her pretty busy with the park
employing her on a full-time basis
The second elephant to be seen by Im was
housed in an older treatment area nearby This
time the problem was a cut on the bottom of its
foot caused by walking on some glass
With the elephants mahout on-hand to assist
Im first had to check to see if there was any
remaining glass in the wound This done the next
stage was cleaning the injury which was done
using a giant foot bath
The elephantrsquos mahout guided the elephant into
position so that her front feet would be standing
in the disinfecting solution But rather than just
walking the animal through the solution the
elephant had to stand patiently with its feet in the
foot bath for a whole hour
During the treatment the elephantrsquos tether was lying unsecured on the floor but she stood calmly allowing
the vet to do her task even being in some discomfort It shows how trusting these animals can be with
humans The female elephant must have known that Im was there to help her
During an average day Im will treat 4 or 5 elephants usually foot injuries and other such problems as we
witnessed that morning cleaning and disinfecting wounds to prevent infection When she does have
a quieter day Imrsquos time is taken up with the general wellbeing of the elephants with nail trimming and
administrating drugs However her work isnrsquot limited to the park elephants
On occasion elephants outside the park require help so they can contact Im who will go out to the
surrounding area and provide a mobile clinic This service is provided free of charge courtesy of the park and
is a much appreciated service to the elephants who do not have a fixed home and whose mahouts cannot
otherwise afford treatment for their animals
With the sun approaching the meridian we said our farewells and headed back to town with the peace of
mind knowing that the magnificent elephants would be in the capable hands of Im the vet who cares and
treats them day to day
International Training Massage School
On a peaceful street a short walk from Chiang
Mairsquos old city is the International Training Massage
School An airy modern building in the traditional
Lanna style welcomes beginners seeking to learn
the basics of traditional Thai massage as well as
seasoned massage professionals looking to expand
their skills
Thai Guru is well used to being on the receiving
end of a skilful pair of hands of belonging to an
experienced masseuse so were pleased to be
invited to join the students at ITM to learn a bit more
about the training that is required to perform one of
the best things about living in Thailand
Chiang Mai is a mecca for those wishing to
spend a few days a few weeks or a few months
learning the art of Nuad Boran or lsquoancient
Thai Massagersquo Massage is serious business
in this part of the world and schools like ITM
tech everything from introduction courses
to advanced teacher training There are also
some quite specific classes on offer including
pregnancy massage hot stone healing massage
and infant massage
The ITM students turn up to begin their studies
early in the morning Shoes and sandals are left
outside the building next to a decorative koi
carp pond comfortable loose fitting pyjamas
are donned feet are washed and it is off to one
of the yoga studios to settle down and the first
blessing of the day Prayers are offered up by
students and teachers to Dr Shivago Komarpaj
Buddharsquos physician and the father of Thai
massage
Traditional Thai massage is practiced without
oils unguents or lotions and both giver and
receiver keep their clothes on The therapy
involves the compression rocking stretching
and manipulation of the joints and muscles
rather than the rubbing and stroking often
employed in other forms of massage
Once the prayers and blessings have been given up it is time for the students to get themselves ready for
the dayrsquos exertions by stretching To the relaxing sounds of flute music a teacher guides the trainees through
a set of yoga moves On the morning Thai Guru visited there were fifteen students being gently told to
assume the lsquosupermanrsquo and kick their legs into the air for the lsquoreverse bicyclersquo
We were informed that the combination of rhythmic stretches traditionally used by yogis and hermits (who
probably better than anyone know the importance of a good stretch) as well as warming up the studentsrsquo
bodies help the novices to understand better what they will be doing to the bodies of those they are about
to massage
A short break for coffee and bananas in a quiet courtyard watched over by a shrine to Dr Shivago and itrsquos
back to the classroom for a demonstration of the significance of some basic Nuad Boran moves The
students gather round books with detailed diagrams open on their laps to study how to perfect moves like
lsquothe flamingorsquo and lsquothe last tangorsquo among others
The founder of the school Mr Chongkol Setthakorn takes over the class for
the serious task of making sure the students have been paying attention and
arenrsquot in the process of giving each other hernias A quick prayer is said and
the real business of bending stretching and joint crunching begins
The students we met had been training for between three and four weeks
However courses at ITM and indeed at schools across Chiang Mai can be
tailored to fit the requirements of anyone who wishes to get involved in an
activity that gives enormous pleasure to both the giver and receiver - as Mr
Settakorn astutely explains ldquoThai Massage is like a thousand gentle waves
washing over the bodyrdquo
ITM ndash International Training Massage School
599 Chang Puak Road
Soi 4 Chor
Sriphum
Muang Chiang Mai
50200 THAILAND
Phone +66-5321-8632
Mobile +66-83-763-1002
Email itmitmthaimassagecom
wwwitmthaimassagecom
Krabi dream destination
After a couple of weeks traveling through
Thailand many are looking for the
perfect location to spend their last days
of their vancation Perfection doesnrsquot
exist but dream destination Krabi is gets
close
Located in the south west of Thailand
Krabi is also thanks to its airport an easy
destination to reach
You will notice the friendly atmosphere in this
area of Thailand right away
A couple of must sees like the Emerald Pond
and the Hot Waterfall are definitely worth your
visit Imagine relaxing in a the hot waterfall
under the exotic trees
And of course an island tour is a must when
you are in Krabi
By boat you can visit Por da Koh Hong Koh Kai
and the famous Pranang cave
Khao Yai National Park
Since establishing Thai Guru Magazine
we have been eager to take our
cameras to Khao Yai National Park
Having visited the area previously
I had already enjoyed the beauty
of Khao Yai and the abundance of
wildlife to be seen there and was keen
to share it with the rest of the team
Finally at the end of January we
jumped in the car for the long drive
south from
Chiang Mai
Three hours northeast of Bangkok Khao Yai
is the oldest and third largest national park
in Thailand Grasslands evergreen forests
monsoon forests and rain forests cover more
than 2000 square kilometres of this Unesco
World Heritage site
The park is teeming with wildlife Mammals
including elephant gibbon barking deer and
guar live within the parkrsquos borders The area
is also home to carnivores such as Asian wild
dogs and tigers as well as numerous reptiles and
amphibians including king cobras pythons and
monitor lizards Nearly 400 species of bird can
be found at Khao Yai Other attractions in this
trekkersrsquo paradise include several large waterfalls
The 20 metre Haew Suwat waterfall with is
deep pool was made famous by the film lsquoThe
Beachrsquo
Day 1The road leading to the gates of Khao Yai National Park is notable for its
numerous Italian influenced restaurants hotels and guesthouses A paradise
for pizza and pasta lovers there is even a small Italian-style village with ice-
cream parlours eateries and Italian themed guesthouses Almost immediately
after entering the park we were greeted by the sight of black giant squirrels
and pig tailed macaques clamouring in the canopy all around us Our first stop
was the visitor centre where we picked up a map of the park and other useful
information Outside were several sambar deer picking through restaurant
leftovers The rest of the day was spent exploring spots in which to set up
our cameras the following day We also made the first of several walks to the
observation tower adjacent to Nong Pak Chee reservoir As well as fabulous
views of the park the tower overlooks a saltlick where all manner of wildlife
gathers to suck up vital minerals and nutrients
Day 2Khao Yai is extremely popular with visitors and we could only
book lodging within its borders for the last two days of our trip
This meant an early start so we could get into the park in time to
shoot the sunrise We were the first visitors of the day and drove
to one of the places we had explored the day before We came
across what we thought was one of the many sambar or barking
deer that roam freely around the park We decided to take a
closer look only to find we had stumbled across an Asiatic black
bear half hidden in the morning mist Having spotted us after a
few minutes the handsome creature ambled off into the forest
The dawn had barely broken and our day was already a triumph
The rest of our time was spent following gibbons various varieties
deer and innumerable brightly coloured birds
Day 3Today we were fortunate to be allowed to move
ourselves and our equipment into government-
owned lodgings within the park Our first
mission was to set our cameras up at a place
where we had heard the heavy distinctive
rushing of wings and calls of hornbills (described
by some as sounding like the puffing of a steam
locomotive) the day before
We had expected a long wait but already had
our first shots of this impressive bird in the
can before breakfast We spent many hours
photographing hornbills macaque and other
wildlife
We even stumbled upon a pack of Asian wild
dogs gathered around the carcass of a recently
killed deer We thought our wildlife encounters
for the day were over as we sat down to enjoy
dinner only to be disturbed by scuffling sounds
behind our bungalow The noise was being
made by a pair of porcupines who were not in
the least afraid of us and actually attempted to
chase us away
Day 4The day was spent exploring the trails of Khao Yai and discovering among other wildlife a magnificent
crested serpent eagle As the afternoon drew to a close we decided to take one last trip to the watchtower
From here we witnessed the gathering of a large flock of hornbills We showed some of our footage to a
friendly ranger He was particularly interested in our bear shots We were thrilled to be told that it was very
rare to see a black bear even more so when we were informed that none of the rangers had seen one for
a number of months I decided to leave the tower to find a good place to photograph the sunset Within
a matter of minutes I heard someone scream ldquoBEARrdquo and was back up the stairs in seconds There below
us taking an evening stroll through the grass just metres from where we were perched was another much
younger black bear
Our trip could not have ended better Needless
to say Thai Guru thoroughly recommends a visit
to Khao Yai National Park As already mentioned
the park is popular with both local and foreign
tourists especially on holidays and weekends
We advise that you try to visit during the week
when the park is quieter and the chance of
seeing the amazing wildlife is greater
The park has two camping grounds as well as a
few bungalows that can be booked through the
Department of National Parks Wildlife and Plant
Conservation These need to be booked well
in advance However there are also plenty of
guesthouses and hotels are to be found along
the parkrsquos boundaries
Festival of LanternsThe enchanting atmosphere of Loi Krathong
The weather is cooling down and itrsquos
that time of year again when we all
take to the waterways of Thailand and
give praise to Khongkha the water
Goddess who took care of abundant
rainfall in the past raining season
Donrsquot miss this joyful celebration with
its enchanting atmosphere that brings
one and all in Thailand together
much like Songkran
Thailandrsquos lsquoFestival of Lightsrsquo is celebrated
throughout the kingdom on the night of the
November full moon The end of the rainy
season heralds the coolest months in the
countryrsquos calendar when the river waters are
also supposed to be at their highest
Superstition replaces religion on this night as
thousands flock to the banks of the swollen
rivers and canals to release khratongs floating
tributes to the river spirits and Mother Water ndash
Phra Mae Khongkha In recent years the festival
has been revived in the ancient temples of
Thailandrsquos former capital Sukhothai
Visitors assemble in the Sukhothai Historical
Park with their banana leaf khratongs decorated
with flowers incense sticks and candles to take
part in a ceremony that dates back centuries
Sometimes a coin is added as gift to the spirits
The pretty rafts are then released onto the lake
with a wish
It was once believed that Loi Khratong
was actually created in Sukhothai by Nang
Nopphamas a lady of the court and consort
of the king In fact the celebration was adapted
by Thai Buddhists from a Brahmanical festival
adapted to honour Buddha
The khratong is meant to be a light on the
darkness of the water for Buddha A personrsquos
sins and negative thoughts are also believed to
float away with the colourful little raft Try adding
a lock of your hair for extra luck
Nearly 20 of the Northern provinces will be
showing off a dazzling selection of floats in the
Royal Khratongs Procession as well as holding a
Miss Nopphamat beauty contest
A competition is held for the most beautifully
designed khratong as well as plenty of other
Sukhothai arts and cultural performances
The Light-and-Sound Presentation at Wat
Mahathat explains the history and origins of
Sukhothai and Loi Khratong through dance
music prayer combat displays light effects and
fireworks No Loi Khratong would be complete
without fireworks and thankfully the Thais are
not shy when it comes to blowing things up in
the sky
Tra Kuan pond is the place to be for the floating
of the Royal Khratongs followed by more
firmament-filling pyrotechnics Wat Chana
Songkram is the venue for the Mahachat
sermon Khon Marked Dance and a Thai
classical music performance
Thai Guru decided to travel from Chiang Mai
to Sukhotai for this yearrsquos festivities Although
the heavens decided to open for most of the
celebrations on the final day the rain could not
dampen the celebrations and the spectacle was
jaw dropping
The only thing that was missing due to the rain
was a sky filled with khom loi the sky lanterns
usually released into the firmament in their
hundreds
Although the festivities officially last for the best
part of a week it is the last three days that are
the busiest
Visitors can join in with a range of activities
including fruit carving or just wander around the
historic park listening to live traditional music
watching Thai martial arts or join the parade
of dancers musicians and beauty contestants
all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured
costumes
There are numerous places to stay for the
duration of the festival but it is advisable to
book ahead if you can because this is a very
popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north
from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai
Chiang Mai Temples
A visit to a temple in Thailand is
unavoidable They are everywhere
We at Thai Guru are well aware that
because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can
quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang
Mai With this in mind (and because
the city is overflowing with hundreds
of them) we have chosen a few of
our favourites we hope are slightly
alternative to the ones on the usual
tourist itinerary
Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to
the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its
latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of
the skills of the local silversmiths Like many
of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was
established several centuries ago The ubosoth
or ordination hall is an intricately designed
silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in
the sunlight
The area around Wua Lai has been the home to
silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past
couple of centuries who are famed throughout
the kingdom for creating detailed embossed
relief patterns on the objects they create
something that is immediately evident and
celebrated at Wat Srisuphan
The larger more traditionally decorated red blue
and gold prayer hall also contains impressive
silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos
life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft
museum
Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the
artisans at work and the temple has its own
silver-working school where apprentices are
trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive
Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved
in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-
robed residents of the temple improve their
linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also
available
Unfortunately women are not allowed to
enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this
is explained on a sign outside the wording of
which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in
the monastic boundary many precious things
incantations amulets and other holy objects
were buried over 500 years ago Entering
inside this area may deteriorated the place or
otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most
of the interior can be appreciated from the
doorway
Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous
for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged
Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai
Due to its being less well advertised than its
neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham
is often a more peaceful temple from which
to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang
Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist
Lent when the place was alive with worshippers
Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once
the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic
giants Following a visit from the Buddha the
giants decided to mend their ways stop eating
their neighbours and convert to Buddhism
For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and
offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the
templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally
constructed towards the end of the 7th century
Although the temple fell into disrepair over the
centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered
a chamber containing a number of Buddha
images The discovery led to the revitalisation of
this mountain top temple
The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are
guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured
sword-wielding warriors The courtyard
overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and
bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of
food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the
road leading to the temple
Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-
west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek
and easily accessible by car or taxi
Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai
was being established the name translates
as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably
because it was used to cast Buddha images for
its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The
entrance to the temple is through a small but
intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos
assembly hall is notable because it is one of the
only viharns of its type constructed solely from
teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a
superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock
astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference
to the king who once used the wooden hall as
his palace The gilded image features mythical
creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured
glass
The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite
from the busy road outside Wooden boxes
contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm
leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a
large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors
Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks
like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a
small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less
imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo
temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru
recommends a quick visit if you are passing
Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous
temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi
Luang
The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the
largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it
was damaged either by an earthquake in the
16th century or cannon fire from the guns
of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese
in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO
funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps
up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga
serpents and a group of five elephants (only the
one without a trunk or ears partially survived
whatever caused the structure to collapse the
others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi
was also once home to one of the most revered
religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald
Buddha Although the original now resides in
Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and
once again looks out over the city from a niche
on the east side of the structure
Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and
now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly
hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance
is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a
great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar
housed in a building at the base of the tree
Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although
one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few
alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed
Mae Hong Son
It is said that Mae Hong Son is the
most authentic and mountainous
province of Thailand For Thai Guru a
good reason to explore this province
side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai
province
Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of
Thailand The northern most part of this
province is at a distance of 924 km from
Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province
in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son
borders Myanmar On the south and east side it
borders Tak and Chiang Mai province
We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast
on the 108 road The scenery is woody and
mountainous so far so good And as we leave
the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek
for wildlife and beautiful landscapes
The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage
is that our average speed drops to less than
15 km hour No worries when you do trips
like these the clock stops and the only thing
on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning
landscapes that unfold before your eyes
The main road is well paved But as you might
understand we regularly go off road
This is the best way to come into contact with
locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo
While we are standing somewhere taking in the
beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a
falcon calling
A short walk through the forrest the sound
stops and we decide to sit down for some
water and well earned rest After a short while I
hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo
There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters
above us a white rumped falcon
Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras
it stays there and even when we start making
noises because we want to film it in flight it
takes itrsquos time
Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of
Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They
cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more
Of course they also have their own cattle And
walking through one of their small villages they
are very friendly and hospitable
It has to be said it is never smart to enter
a community or people with your camera
as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask
the people if they mind if you taking their
photograph or want to film their daily life
In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to
the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean
and offers a nice variety food on the terrace
with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city
where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists
Really nice to stroll down the walking street and
find food or a nice souvenir People are very
friendly as usual
From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae
Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an
average speed of 15 km hour
Halfway we jump out of the car into a river
Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to
keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn
but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around
without it
Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome
us and are gladly willing to allow us to make
photographs and film them
In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early
morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises
For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum
After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark
Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon
So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team
ChinatownBangkok
Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese
people in big cities around the world
Manhattan San Francisco Manilla
Paris and Boston have them and
more keep being officially recognised
in their role as historical and touristic
center every year Even places like
Dubai and Las Vegas have modern
day versions of this phenomenon
As soon as you pass under one of the famous
large red entrance arches you arrive in a
complete different world
A world that is paradise for photographers
A couple of the photographers in the Thai
Guru team decided to spend some time in the
Bangkok version of Chinatown
If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for
some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at
Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim
Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat
SLEEPY NANA dream destination
Relatively unknown and uncrowded
Nan has it all This gem of a province
hides an abundance of cultural and
natural attractions ancient temples
pristine forests rivers mountain
peaks but what strikes you most is
its omnipresent feel of an untroubled
authentic way of life
Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings
you this genuine feel in pictures and footage
For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of
Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant
nature and the nature of its people show
Thailand - as is often said before hordes of
tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas
it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan
managed to escape this proces but will it stay
that way Nan shares most of its border with
neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening
of the border and beyond towards China it is to
be expected that it will ultimately become an
important gateway for trade and tourism
Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town
and the countryside will enchant you and the natural
cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy
for at least a couple of days The town along the banks
of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base
to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night
life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous
temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue
influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The
great surroundings can best be explored by renting a
motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo
Much of the province is devoted to farming
Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still
being practised in areas of the province resulting
in a landscape where forests and fields alternate
Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside
of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature
peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich
natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the
province sees far fewer visitors than popular
neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You
can go white water rafting on the Wa River
along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim
National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay
overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes
Touring Nan
Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern
lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities
of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old
salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via
endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges
and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with
orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers
Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready
to be harvested broke through the green hills
giving a golden hue to the landscape
We encountered friendly villagers who worked
their way through the dry fields - meanwhile
singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to
supplement their meager incomes Despite their
hardship they showed us their heartwarming
hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes
with us
This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi
Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and
sparsely populated that we only passed two
cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos
difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand
nowadays
PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river
The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness
begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over
the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above
the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is
broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices
Then the carved image of a Naga becomes
visible above the water line followed by more
than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted
in red and gold colorshellip
During the year the remote provincial town
of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a
year for the annual spectacle of traditional
Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos
water artery The finals are held over two
days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos
banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite
team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in
Thailand yet relatively unknown
The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long
simple shelters where the massive dragon boats
are housed during the year Just once a year
they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos
most important sporting and social event The
event takes place right after the end of the
rainy season around early November when
water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at
their highest The colorful races are part of the
festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the
last day of Buddhist Lent in October
The narrow boats are made from massive
hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters
in length depending how many paddlers they
are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily
distinguishable by their use of bright colors and
mythical designs in the traditional local style
The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of
each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting
only the good ones to participate in their race
How to get there
Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is
connected by plane and by bus to the rest of
the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan
Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice
each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to
Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to
Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on
the service
Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan
(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8
hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)
The contestants of the races are classified into
three categories mdashlarge medium and small
boats Depending on their length each boat can
accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers
sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the
same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously
against the current to the frantic beating of a
drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern
The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying
their attempt to reach the finish line first and
the paddles churning up the river creates a
spectacular atmosphere
Son
g K
ran
in
Ch
ian
g M
ai
Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of
the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down
in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The
days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing
steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the
hot months of April and May The stifling mid-
day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out
unless necessary The buzz around town about
some festival called Song Kran is starting to
increase an underlying excitement rising
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
contact us
infothaigurumagazinecom
All videos in this magazine are
available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
- 2 pieces of dried soy bean paste
- 7 dried red hot chili
- 5 shallots
- 5 cloves of garlic
- 2 cups of chopped tomatoes
- 1 cup of chopped oyster mushrooms
- 1 cup of mashed firm tofu
- 1 tbsp of chopped lemongrass
- 1 tbsp of oil
- 1 tsp of salt
- 3 tbsp of soy sauce
- 2 tsp of sugar
- frac14 cup of water
- 3 stems of coriander
- 2 tbsp of chopped spring onion
Roast chili shallots garlic and
dried soybean paste until fragrant
Put in a mortar together with
lemon grass and crush
Heat up oil in a wok Add the mixture
of the mortar Fry until fragrant
Add tomatoes mushrooms tofu and water
Add seasoning salt soy sauce and sugar
Stir and let it simmer until tomatoes
are soft and well mixed together
The taste should be little bit spicy
sour and salty
Add more seasoning to taste
Put in bowl and garnish with
coriander and spring onion
Serve with rice and fresh steamed or raw
vegetables such as cabbage
cucumber or egg plants
Enjoy
With thanks to Thai Farm Cooking School
A Morning with an Elephant Vet
A 45 minute drive through the morning traffic
heading towards Mae Taeng located to the
north of Chiang Mai on our way to visit an
elephant park One of many elephant camps or
parks around Thailand catering for the gawking
tourists taking them on elephant rides and
doing tricks like playing football or painting
pictures However few travellers ever give a
second thought about the actual welfare of
these great creatures whose natural habitat
has been eroded away Our focus today was
going to be the work of a local veterinarian who
has spent the last 4 years with the Mae Taeng
Elephant Park and Clinic running their veterinary
facility
Upon our arrival I headed off to meet with the
parks general manager Khun Nu who informed
us that their resident vet would be arriving
shortly After a short wander around the park we
headed in the direction of the medical facilities
which comprised of what I would describe
as a kind of lsquowaiting roomrsquo area for the sick
elephants a large roofed structure able to house
several of the large animals Next to this was
one of two treatment areas again a large shed
construction with a very sturdy looking steel
frame set into the concrete floor to which the
elephants can be tethered while being seen by
the vet
Approaching the waiting area a slight figure
wearing a green surgical smock could be seen
with a mahout crouched under the head of a
young female elephant treating its neck the
first patient of the day The cow as females are
known was being treated for some sores around
the neck The vet was daubing the area with
disinfectant to help prevent infection working
quickly and efficiently in silence unaware of our
presence
The vet a 28 year old woman going by the
nickname of lsquoImrsquo (a short vowel sounding i as
in it) has been working at the elephant clinic
since she graduated 4 years previously from the
Faculty of Veterinary Medicine at Chiang Mai
University after completing a 6 year veterinary
degree Her love of these majestic creatures
was the focus of her dissertation Working daily
from 9 to 5 keeps her pretty busy with the park
employing her on a full-time basis
The second elephant to be seen by Im was
housed in an older treatment area nearby This
time the problem was a cut on the bottom of its
foot caused by walking on some glass
With the elephants mahout on-hand to assist
Im first had to check to see if there was any
remaining glass in the wound This done the next
stage was cleaning the injury which was done
using a giant foot bath
The elephantrsquos mahout guided the elephant into
position so that her front feet would be standing
in the disinfecting solution But rather than just
walking the animal through the solution the
elephant had to stand patiently with its feet in the
foot bath for a whole hour
During the treatment the elephantrsquos tether was lying unsecured on the floor but she stood calmly allowing
the vet to do her task even being in some discomfort It shows how trusting these animals can be with
humans The female elephant must have known that Im was there to help her
During an average day Im will treat 4 or 5 elephants usually foot injuries and other such problems as we
witnessed that morning cleaning and disinfecting wounds to prevent infection When she does have
a quieter day Imrsquos time is taken up with the general wellbeing of the elephants with nail trimming and
administrating drugs However her work isnrsquot limited to the park elephants
On occasion elephants outside the park require help so they can contact Im who will go out to the
surrounding area and provide a mobile clinic This service is provided free of charge courtesy of the park and
is a much appreciated service to the elephants who do not have a fixed home and whose mahouts cannot
otherwise afford treatment for their animals
With the sun approaching the meridian we said our farewells and headed back to town with the peace of
mind knowing that the magnificent elephants would be in the capable hands of Im the vet who cares and
treats them day to day
International Training Massage School
On a peaceful street a short walk from Chiang
Mairsquos old city is the International Training Massage
School An airy modern building in the traditional
Lanna style welcomes beginners seeking to learn
the basics of traditional Thai massage as well as
seasoned massage professionals looking to expand
their skills
Thai Guru is well used to being on the receiving
end of a skilful pair of hands of belonging to an
experienced masseuse so were pleased to be
invited to join the students at ITM to learn a bit more
about the training that is required to perform one of
the best things about living in Thailand
Chiang Mai is a mecca for those wishing to
spend a few days a few weeks or a few months
learning the art of Nuad Boran or lsquoancient
Thai Massagersquo Massage is serious business
in this part of the world and schools like ITM
tech everything from introduction courses
to advanced teacher training There are also
some quite specific classes on offer including
pregnancy massage hot stone healing massage
and infant massage
The ITM students turn up to begin their studies
early in the morning Shoes and sandals are left
outside the building next to a decorative koi
carp pond comfortable loose fitting pyjamas
are donned feet are washed and it is off to one
of the yoga studios to settle down and the first
blessing of the day Prayers are offered up by
students and teachers to Dr Shivago Komarpaj
Buddharsquos physician and the father of Thai
massage
Traditional Thai massage is practiced without
oils unguents or lotions and both giver and
receiver keep their clothes on The therapy
involves the compression rocking stretching
and manipulation of the joints and muscles
rather than the rubbing and stroking often
employed in other forms of massage
Once the prayers and blessings have been given up it is time for the students to get themselves ready for
the dayrsquos exertions by stretching To the relaxing sounds of flute music a teacher guides the trainees through
a set of yoga moves On the morning Thai Guru visited there were fifteen students being gently told to
assume the lsquosupermanrsquo and kick their legs into the air for the lsquoreverse bicyclersquo
We were informed that the combination of rhythmic stretches traditionally used by yogis and hermits (who
probably better than anyone know the importance of a good stretch) as well as warming up the studentsrsquo
bodies help the novices to understand better what they will be doing to the bodies of those they are about
to massage
A short break for coffee and bananas in a quiet courtyard watched over by a shrine to Dr Shivago and itrsquos
back to the classroom for a demonstration of the significance of some basic Nuad Boran moves The
students gather round books with detailed diagrams open on their laps to study how to perfect moves like
lsquothe flamingorsquo and lsquothe last tangorsquo among others
The founder of the school Mr Chongkol Setthakorn takes over the class for
the serious task of making sure the students have been paying attention and
arenrsquot in the process of giving each other hernias A quick prayer is said and
the real business of bending stretching and joint crunching begins
The students we met had been training for between three and four weeks
However courses at ITM and indeed at schools across Chiang Mai can be
tailored to fit the requirements of anyone who wishes to get involved in an
activity that gives enormous pleasure to both the giver and receiver - as Mr
Settakorn astutely explains ldquoThai Massage is like a thousand gentle waves
washing over the bodyrdquo
ITM ndash International Training Massage School
599 Chang Puak Road
Soi 4 Chor
Sriphum
Muang Chiang Mai
50200 THAILAND
Phone +66-5321-8632
Mobile +66-83-763-1002
Email itmitmthaimassagecom
wwwitmthaimassagecom
Krabi dream destination
After a couple of weeks traveling through
Thailand many are looking for the
perfect location to spend their last days
of their vancation Perfection doesnrsquot
exist but dream destination Krabi is gets
close
Located in the south west of Thailand
Krabi is also thanks to its airport an easy
destination to reach
You will notice the friendly atmosphere in this
area of Thailand right away
A couple of must sees like the Emerald Pond
and the Hot Waterfall are definitely worth your
visit Imagine relaxing in a the hot waterfall
under the exotic trees
And of course an island tour is a must when
you are in Krabi
By boat you can visit Por da Koh Hong Koh Kai
and the famous Pranang cave
Khao Yai National Park
Since establishing Thai Guru Magazine
we have been eager to take our
cameras to Khao Yai National Park
Having visited the area previously
I had already enjoyed the beauty
of Khao Yai and the abundance of
wildlife to be seen there and was keen
to share it with the rest of the team
Finally at the end of January we
jumped in the car for the long drive
south from
Chiang Mai
Three hours northeast of Bangkok Khao Yai
is the oldest and third largest national park
in Thailand Grasslands evergreen forests
monsoon forests and rain forests cover more
than 2000 square kilometres of this Unesco
World Heritage site
The park is teeming with wildlife Mammals
including elephant gibbon barking deer and
guar live within the parkrsquos borders The area
is also home to carnivores such as Asian wild
dogs and tigers as well as numerous reptiles and
amphibians including king cobras pythons and
monitor lizards Nearly 400 species of bird can
be found at Khao Yai Other attractions in this
trekkersrsquo paradise include several large waterfalls
The 20 metre Haew Suwat waterfall with is
deep pool was made famous by the film lsquoThe
Beachrsquo
Day 1The road leading to the gates of Khao Yai National Park is notable for its
numerous Italian influenced restaurants hotels and guesthouses A paradise
for pizza and pasta lovers there is even a small Italian-style village with ice-
cream parlours eateries and Italian themed guesthouses Almost immediately
after entering the park we were greeted by the sight of black giant squirrels
and pig tailed macaques clamouring in the canopy all around us Our first stop
was the visitor centre where we picked up a map of the park and other useful
information Outside were several sambar deer picking through restaurant
leftovers The rest of the day was spent exploring spots in which to set up
our cameras the following day We also made the first of several walks to the
observation tower adjacent to Nong Pak Chee reservoir As well as fabulous
views of the park the tower overlooks a saltlick where all manner of wildlife
gathers to suck up vital minerals and nutrients
Day 2Khao Yai is extremely popular with visitors and we could only
book lodging within its borders for the last two days of our trip
This meant an early start so we could get into the park in time to
shoot the sunrise We were the first visitors of the day and drove
to one of the places we had explored the day before We came
across what we thought was one of the many sambar or barking
deer that roam freely around the park We decided to take a
closer look only to find we had stumbled across an Asiatic black
bear half hidden in the morning mist Having spotted us after a
few minutes the handsome creature ambled off into the forest
The dawn had barely broken and our day was already a triumph
The rest of our time was spent following gibbons various varieties
deer and innumerable brightly coloured birds
Day 3Today we were fortunate to be allowed to move
ourselves and our equipment into government-
owned lodgings within the park Our first
mission was to set our cameras up at a place
where we had heard the heavy distinctive
rushing of wings and calls of hornbills (described
by some as sounding like the puffing of a steam
locomotive) the day before
We had expected a long wait but already had
our first shots of this impressive bird in the
can before breakfast We spent many hours
photographing hornbills macaque and other
wildlife
We even stumbled upon a pack of Asian wild
dogs gathered around the carcass of a recently
killed deer We thought our wildlife encounters
for the day were over as we sat down to enjoy
dinner only to be disturbed by scuffling sounds
behind our bungalow The noise was being
made by a pair of porcupines who were not in
the least afraid of us and actually attempted to
chase us away
Day 4The day was spent exploring the trails of Khao Yai and discovering among other wildlife a magnificent
crested serpent eagle As the afternoon drew to a close we decided to take one last trip to the watchtower
From here we witnessed the gathering of a large flock of hornbills We showed some of our footage to a
friendly ranger He was particularly interested in our bear shots We were thrilled to be told that it was very
rare to see a black bear even more so when we were informed that none of the rangers had seen one for
a number of months I decided to leave the tower to find a good place to photograph the sunset Within
a matter of minutes I heard someone scream ldquoBEARrdquo and was back up the stairs in seconds There below
us taking an evening stroll through the grass just metres from where we were perched was another much
younger black bear
Our trip could not have ended better Needless
to say Thai Guru thoroughly recommends a visit
to Khao Yai National Park As already mentioned
the park is popular with both local and foreign
tourists especially on holidays and weekends
We advise that you try to visit during the week
when the park is quieter and the chance of
seeing the amazing wildlife is greater
The park has two camping grounds as well as a
few bungalows that can be booked through the
Department of National Parks Wildlife and Plant
Conservation These need to be booked well
in advance However there are also plenty of
guesthouses and hotels are to be found along
the parkrsquos boundaries
Festival of LanternsThe enchanting atmosphere of Loi Krathong
The weather is cooling down and itrsquos
that time of year again when we all
take to the waterways of Thailand and
give praise to Khongkha the water
Goddess who took care of abundant
rainfall in the past raining season
Donrsquot miss this joyful celebration with
its enchanting atmosphere that brings
one and all in Thailand together
much like Songkran
Thailandrsquos lsquoFestival of Lightsrsquo is celebrated
throughout the kingdom on the night of the
November full moon The end of the rainy
season heralds the coolest months in the
countryrsquos calendar when the river waters are
also supposed to be at their highest
Superstition replaces religion on this night as
thousands flock to the banks of the swollen
rivers and canals to release khratongs floating
tributes to the river spirits and Mother Water ndash
Phra Mae Khongkha In recent years the festival
has been revived in the ancient temples of
Thailandrsquos former capital Sukhothai
Visitors assemble in the Sukhothai Historical
Park with their banana leaf khratongs decorated
with flowers incense sticks and candles to take
part in a ceremony that dates back centuries
Sometimes a coin is added as gift to the spirits
The pretty rafts are then released onto the lake
with a wish
It was once believed that Loi Khratong
was actually created in Sukhothai by Nang
Nopphamas a lady of the court and consort
of the king In fact the celebration was adapted
by Thai Buddhists from a Brahmanical festival
adapted to honour Buddha
The khratong is meant to be a light on the
darkness of the water for Buddha A personrsquos
sins and negative thoughts are also believed to
float away with the colourful little raft Try adding
a lock of your hair for extra luck
Nearly 20 of the Northern provinces will be
showing off a dazzling selection of floats in the
Royal Khratongs Procession as well as holding a
Miss Nopphamat beauty contest
A competition is held for the most beautifully
designed khratong as well as plenty of other
Sukhothai arts and cultural performances
The Light-and-Sound Presentation at Wat
Mahathat explains the history and origins of
Sukhothai and Loi Khratong through dance
music prayer combat displays light effects and
fireworks No Loi Khratong would be complete
without fireworks and thankfully the Thais are
not shy when it comes to blowing things up in
the sky
Tra Kuan pond is the place to be for the floating
of the Royal Khratongs followed by more
firmament-filling pyrotechnics Wat Chana
Songkram is the venue for the Mahachat
sermon Khon Marked Dance and a Thai
classical music performance
Thai Guru decided to travel from Chiang Mai
to Sukhotai for this yearrsquos festivities Although
the heavens decided to open for most of the
celebrations on the final day the rain could not
dampen the celebrations and the spectacle was
jaw dropping
The only thing that was missing due to the rain
was a sky filled with khom loi the sky lanterns
usually released into the firmament in their
hundreds
Although the festivities officially last for the best
part of a week it is the last three days that are
the busiest
Visitors can join in with a range of activities
including fruit carving or just wander around the
historic park listening to live traditional music
watching Thai martial arts or join the parade
of dancers musicians and beauty contestants
all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured
costumes
There are numerous places to stay for the
duration of the festival but it is advisable to
book ahead if you can because this is a very
popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north
from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai
Chiang Mai Temples
A visit to a temple in Thailand is
unavoidable They are everywhere
We at Thai Guru are well aware that
because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can
quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang
Mai With this in mind (and because
the city is overflowing with hundreds
of them) we have chosen a few of
our favourites we hope are slightly
alternative to the ones on the usual
tourist itinerary
Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to
the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its
latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of
the skills of the local silversmiths Like many
of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was
established several centuries ago The ubosoth
or ordination hall is an intricately designed
silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in
the sunlight
The area around Wua Lai has been the home to
silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past
couple of centuries who are famed throughout
the kingdom for creating detailed embossed
relief patterns on the objects they create
something that is immediately evident and
celebrated at Wat Srisuphan
The larger more traditionally decorated red blue
and gold prayer hall also contains impressive
silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos
life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft
museum
Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the
artisans at work and the temple has its own
silver-working school where apprentices are
trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive
Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved
in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-
robed residents of the temple improve their
linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also
available
Unfortunately women are not allowed to
enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this
is explained on a sign outside the wording of
which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in
the monastic boundary many precious things
incantations amulets and other holy objects
were buried over 500 years ago Entering
inside this area may deteriorated the place or
otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most
of the interior can be appreciated from the
doorway
Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous
for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged
Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai
Due to its being less well advertised than its
neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham
is often a more peaceful temple from which
to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang
Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist
Lent when the place was alive with worshippers
Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once
the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic
giants Following a visit from the Buddha the
giants decided to mend their ways stop eating
their neighbours and convert to Buddhism
For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and
offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the
templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally
constructed towards the end of the 7th century
Although the temple fell into disrepair over the
centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered
a chamber containing a number of Buddha
images The discovery led to the revitalisation of
this mountain top temple
The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are
guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured
sword-wielding warriors The courtyard
overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and
bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of
food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the
road leading to the temple
Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-
west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek
and easily accessible by car or taxi
Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai
was being established the name translates
as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably
because it was used to cast Buddha images for
its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The
entrance to the temple is through a small but
intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos
assembly hall is notable because it is one of the
only viharns of its type constructed solely from
teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a
superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock
astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference
to the king who once used the wooden hall as
his palace The gilded image features mythical
creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured
glass
The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite
from the busy road outside Wooden boxes
contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm
leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a
large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors
Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks
like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a
small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less
imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo
temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru
recommends a quick visit if you are passing
Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous
temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi
Luang
The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the
largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it
was damaged either by an earthquake in the
16th century or cannon fire from the guns
of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese
in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO
funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps
up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga
serpents and a group of five elephants (only the
one without a trunk or ears partially survived
whatever caused the structure to collapse the
others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi
was also once home to one of the most revered
religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald
Buddha Although the original now resides in
Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and
once again looks out over the city from a niche
on the east side of the structure
Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and
now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly
hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance
is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a
great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar
housed in a building at the base of the tree
Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although
one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few
alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed
Mae Hong Son
It is said that Mae Hong Son is the
most authentic and mountainous
province of Thailand For Thai Guru a
good reason to explore this province
side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai
province
Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of
Thailand The northern most part of this
province is at a distance of 924 km from
Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province
in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son
borders Myanmar On the south and east side it
borders Tak and Chiang Mai province
We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast
on the 108 road The scenery is woody and
mountainous so far so good And as we leave
the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek
for wildlife and beautiful landscapes
The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage
is that our average speed drops to less than
15 km hour No worries when you do trips
like these the clock stops and the only thing
on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning
landscapes that unfold before your eyes
The main road is well paved But as you might
understand we regularly go off road
This is the best way to come into contact with
locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo
While we are standing somewhere taking in the
beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a
falcon calling
A short walk through the forrest the sound
stops and we decide to sit down for some
water and well earned rest After a short while I
hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo
There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters
above us a white rumped falcon
Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras
it stays there and even when we start making
noises because we want to film it in flight it
takes itrsquos time
Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of
Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They
cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more
Of course they also have their own cattle And
walking through one of their small villages they
are very friendly and hospitable
It has to be said it is never smart to enter
a community or people with your camera
as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask
the people if they mind if you taking their
photograph or want to film their daily life
In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to
the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean
and offers a nice variety food on the terrace
with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city
where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists
Really nice to stroll down the walking street and
find food or a nice souvenir People are very
friendly as usual
From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae
Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an
average speed of 15 km hour
Halfway we jump out of the car into a river
Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to
keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn
but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around
without it
Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome
us and are gladly willing to allow us to make
photographs and film them
In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early
morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises
For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum
After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark
Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon
So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team
ChinatownBangkok
Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese
people in big cities around the world
Manhattan San Francisco Manilla
Paris and Boston have them and
more keep being officially recognised
in their role as historical and touristic
center every year Even places like
Dubai and Las Vegas have modern
day versions of this phenomenon
As soon as you pass under one of the famous
large red entrance arches you arrive in a
complete different world
A world that is paradise for photographers
A couple of the photographers in the Thai
Guru team decided to spend some time in the
Bangkok version of Chinatown
If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for
some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at
Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim
Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat
SLEEPY NANA dream destination
Relatively unknown and uncrowded
Nan has it all This gem of a province
hides an abundance of cultural and
natural attractions ancient temples
pristine forests rivers mountain
peaks but what strikes you most is
its omnipresent feel of an untroubled
authentic way of life
Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings
you this genuine feel in pictures and footage
For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of
Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant
nature and the nature of its people show
Thailand - as is often said before hordes of
tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas
it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan
managed to escape this proces but will it stay
that way Nan shares most of its border with
neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening
of the border and beyond towards China it is to
be expected that it will ultimately become an
important gateway for trade and tourism
Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town
and the countryside will enchant you and the natural
cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy
for at least a couple of days The town along the banks
of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base
to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night
life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous
temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue
influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The
great surroundings can best be explored by renting a
motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo
Much of the province is devoted to farming
Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still
being practised in areas of the province resulting
in a landscape where forests and fields alternate
Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside
of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature
peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich
natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the
province sees far fewer visitors than popular
neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You
can go white water rafting on the Wa River
along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim
National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay
overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes
Touring Nan
Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern
lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities
of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old
salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via
endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges
and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with
orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers
Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready
to be harvested broke through the green hills
giving a golden hue to the landscape
We encountered friendly villagers who worked
their way through the dry fields - meanwhile
singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to
supplement their meager incomes Despite their
hardship they showed us their heartwarming
hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes
with us
This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi
Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and
sparsely populated that we only passed two
cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos
difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand
nowadays
PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river
The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness
begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over
the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above
the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is
broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices
Then the carved image of a Naga becomes
visible above the water line followed by more
than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted
in red and gold colorshellip
During the year the remote provincial town
of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a
year for the annual spectacle of traditional
Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos
water artery The finals are held over two
days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos
banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite
team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in
Thailand yet relatively unknown
The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long
simple shelters where the massive dragon boats
are housed during the year Just once a year
they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos
most important sporting and social event The
event takes place right after the end of the
rainy season around early November when
water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at
their highest The colorful races are part of the
festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the
last day of Buddhist Lent in October
The narrow boats are made from massive
hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters
in length depending how many paddlers they
are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily
distinguishable by their use of bright colors and
mythical designs in the traditional local style
The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of
each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting
only the good ones to participate in their race
How to get there
Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is
connected by plane and by bus to the rest of
the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan
Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice
each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to
Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to
Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on
the service
Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan
(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8
hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)
The contestants of the races are classified into
three categories mdashlarge medium and small
boats Depending on their length each boat can
accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers
sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the
same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously
against the current to the frantic beating of a
drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern
The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying
their attempt to reach the finish line first and
the paddles churning up the river creates a
spectacular atmosphere
Son
g K
ran
in
Ch
ian
g M
ai
Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of
the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down
in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The
days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing
steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the
hot months of April and May The stifling mid-
day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out
unless necessary The buzz around town about
some festival called Song Kran is starting to
increase an underlying excitement rising
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
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To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
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The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
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These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
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Roast chili shallots garlic and
dried soybean paste until fragrant
Put in a mortar together with
lemon grass and crush
Heat up oil in a wok Add the mixture
of the mortar Fry until fragrant
Add tomatoes mushrooms tofu and water
Add seasoning salt soy sauce and sugar
Stir and let it simmer until tomatoes
are soft and well mixed together
The taste should be little bit spicy
sour and salty
Add more seasoning to taste
Put in bowl and garnish with
coriander and spring onion
Serve with rice and fresh steamed or raw
vegetables such as cabbage
cucumber or egg plants
Enjoy
With thanks to Thai Farm Cooking School
A Morning with an Elephant Vet
A 45 minute drive through the morning traffic
heading towards Mae Taeng located to the
north of Chiang Mai on our way to visit an
elephant park One of many elephant camps or
parks around Thailand catering for the gawking
tourists taking them on elephant rides and
doing tricks like playing football or painting
pictures However few travellers ever give a
second thought about the actual welfare of
these great creatures whose natural habitat
has been eroded away Our focus today was
going to be the work of a local veterinarian who
has spent the last 4 years with the Mae Taeng
Elephant Park and Clinic running their veterinary
facility
Upon our arrival I headed off to meet with the
parks general manager Khun Nu who informed
us that their resident vet would be arriving
shortly After a short wander around the park we
headed in the direction of the medical facilities
which comprised of what I would describe
as a kind of lsquowaiting roomrsquo area for the sick
elephants a large roofed structure able to house
several of the large animals Next to this was
one of two treatment areas again a large shed
construction with a very sturdy looking steel
frame set into the concrete floor to which the
elephants can be tethered while being seen by
the vet
Approaching the waiting area a slight figure
wearing a green surgical smock could be seen
with a mahout crouched under the head of a
young female elephant treating its neck the
first patient of the day The cow as females are
known was being treated for some sores around
the neck The vet was daubing the area with
disinfectant to help prevent infection working
quickly and efficiently in silence unaware of our
presence
The vet a 28 year old woman going by the
nickname of lsquoImrsquo (a short vowel sounding i as
in it) has been working at the elephant clinic
since she graduated 4 years previously from the
Faculty of Veterinary Medicine at Chiang Mai
University after completing a 6 year veterinary
degree Her love of these majestic creatures
was the focus of her dissertation Working daily
from 9 to 5 keeps her pretty busy with the park
employing her on a full-time basis
The second elephant to be seen by Im was
housed in an older treatment area nearby This
time the problem was a cut on the bottom of its
foot caused by walking on some glass
With the elephants mahout on-hand to assist
Im first had to check to see if there was any
remaining glass in the wound This done the next
stage was cleaning the injury which was done
using a giant foot bath
The elephantrsquos mahout guided the elephant into
position so that her front feet would be standing
in the disinfecting solution But rather than just
walking the animal through the solution the
elephant had to stand patiently with its feet in the
foot bath for a whole hour
During the treatment the elephantrsquos tether was lying unsecured on the floor but she stood calmly allowing
the vet to do her task even being in some discomfort It shows how trusting these animals can be with
humans The female elephant must have known that Im was there to help her
During an average day Im will treat 4 or 5 elephants usually foot injuries and other such problems as we
witnessed that morning cleaning and disinfecting wounds to prevent infection When she does have
a quieter day Imrsquos time is taken up with the general wellbeing of the elephants with nail trimming and
administrating drugs However her work isnrsquot limited to the park elephants
On occasion elephants outside the park require help so they can contact Im who will go out to the
surrounding area and provide a mobile clinic This service is provided free of charge courtesy of the park and
is a much appreciated service to the elephants who do not have a fixed home and whose mahouts cannot
otherwise afford treatment for their animals
With the sun approaching the meridian we said our farewells and headed back to town with the peace of
mind knowing that the magnificent elephants would be in the capable hands of Im the vet who cares and
treats them day to day
International Training Massage School
On a peaceful street a short walk from Chiang
Mairsquos old city is the International Training Massage
School An airy modern building in the traditional
Lanna style welcomes beginners seeking to learn
the basics of traditional Thai massage as well as
seasoned massage professionals looking to expand
their skills
Thai Guru is well used to being on the receiving
end of a skilful pair of hands of belonging to an
experienced masseuse so were pleased to be
invited to join the students at ITM to learn a bit more
about the training that is required to perform one of
the best things about living in Thailand
Chiang Mai is a mecca for those wishing to
spend a few days a few weeks or a few months
learning the art of Nuad Boran or lsquoancient
Thai Massagersquo Massage is serious business
in this part of the world and schools like ITM
tech everything from introduction courses
to advanced teacher training There are also
some quite specific classes on offer including
pregnancy massage hot stone healing massage
and infant massage
The ITM students turn up to begin their studies
early in the morning Shoes and sandals are left
outside the building next to a decorative koi
carp pond comfortable loose fitting pyjamas
are donned feet are washed and it is off to one
of the yoga studios to settle down and the first
blessing of the day Prayers are offered up by
students and teachers to Dr Shivago Komarpaj
Buddharsquos physician and the father of Thai
massage
Traditional Thai massage is practiced without
oils unguents or lotions and both giver and
receiver keep their clothes on The therapy
involves the compression rocking stretching
and manipulation of the joints and muscles
rather than the rubbing and stroking often
employed in other forms of massage
Once the prayers and blessings have been given up it is time for the students to get themselves ready for
the dayrsquos exertions by stretching To the relaxing sounds of flute music a teacher guides the trainees through
a set of yoga moves On the morning Thai Guru visited there were fifteen students being gently told to
assume the lsquosupermanrsquo and kick their legs into the air for the lsquoreverse bicyclersquo
We were informed that the combination of rhythmic stretches traditionally used by yogis and hermits (who
probably better than anyone know the importance of a good stretch) as well as warming up the studentsrsquo
bodies help the novices to understand better what they will be doing to the bodies of those they are about
to massage
A short break for coffee and bananas in a quiet courtyard watched over by a shrine to Dr Shivago and itrsquos
back to the classroom for a demonstration of the significance of some basic Nuad Boran moves The
students gather round books with detailed diagrams open on their laps to study how to perfect moves like
lsquothe flamingorsquo and lsquothe last tangorsquo among others
The founder of the school Mr Chongkol Setthakorn takes over the class for
the serious task of making sure the students have been paying attention and
arenrsquot in the process of giving each other hernias A quick prayer is said and
the real business of bending stretching and joint crunching begins
The students we met had been training for between three and four weeks
However courses at ITM and indeed at schools across Chiang Mai can be
tailored to fit the requirements of anyone who wishes to get involved in an
activity that gives enormous pleasure to both the giver and receiver - as Mr
Settakorn astutely explains ldquoThai Massage is like a thousand gentle waves
washing over the bodyrdquo
ITM ndash International Training Massage School
599 Chang Puak Road
Soi 4 Chor
Sriphum
Muang Chiang Mai
50200 THAILAND
Phone +66-5321-8632
Mobile +66-83-763-1002
Email itmitmthaimassagecom
wwwitmthaimassagecom
Krabi dream destination
After a couple of weeks traveling through
Thailand many are looking for the
perfect location to spend their last days
of their vancation Perfection doesnrsquot
exist but dream destination Krabi is gets
close
Located in the south west of Thailand
Krabi is also thanks to its airport an easy
destination to reach
You will notice the friendly atmosphere in this
area of Thailand right away
A couple of must sees like the Emerald Pond
and the Hot Waterfall are definitely worth your
visit Imagine relaxing in a the hot waterfall
under the exotic trees
And of course an island tour is a must when
you are in Krabi
By boat you can visit Por da Koh Hong Koh Kai
and the famous Pranang cave
Khao Yai National Park
Since establishing Thai Guru Magazine
we have been eager to take our
cameras to Khao Yai National Park
Having visited the area previously
I had already enjoyed the beauty
of Khao Yai and the abundance of
wildlife to be seen there and was keen
to share it with the rest of the team
Finally at the end of January we
jumped in the car for the long drive
south from
Chiang Mai
Three hours northeast of Bangkok Khao Yai
is the oldest and third largest national park
in Thailand Grasslands evergreen forests
monsoon forests and rain forests cover more
than 2000 square kilometres of this Unesco
World Heritage site
The park is teeming with wildlife Mammals
including elephant gibbon barking deer and
guar live within the parkrsquos borders The area
is also home to carnivores such as Asian wild
dogs and tigers as well as numerous reptiles and
amphibians including king cobras pythons and
monitor lizards Nearly 400 species of bird can
be found at Khao Yai Other attractions in this
trekkersrsquo paradise include several large waterfalls
The 20 metre Haew Suwat waterfall with is
deep pool was made famous by the film lsquoThe
Beachrsquo
Day 1The road leading to the gates of Khao Yai National Park is notable for its
numerous Italian influenced restaurants hotels and guesthouses A paradise
for pizza and pasta lovers there is even a small Italian-style village with ice-
cream parlours eateries and Italian themed guesthouses Almost immediately
after entering the park we were greeted by the sight of black giant squirrels
and pig tailed macaques clamouring in the canopy all around us Our first stop
was the visitor centre where we picked up a map of the park and other useful
information Outside were several sambar deer picking through restaurant
leftovers The rest of the day was spent exploring spots in which to set up
our cameras the following day We also made the first of several walks to the
observation tower adjacent to Nong Pak Chee reservoir As well as fabulous
views of the park the tower overlooks a saltlick where all manner of wildlife
gathers to suck up vital minerals and nutrients
Day 2Khao Yai is extremely popular with visitors and we could only
book lodging within its borders for the last two days of our trip
This meant an early start so we could get into the park in time to
shoot the sunrise We were the first visitors of the day and drove
to one of the places we had explored the day before We came
across what we thought was one of the many sambar or barking
deer that roam freely around the park We decided to take a
closer look only to find we had stumbled across an Asiatic black
bear half hidden in the morning mist Having spotted us after a
few minutes the handsome creature ambled off into the forest
The dawn had barely broken and our day was already a triumph
The rest of our time was spent following gibbons various varieties
deer and innumerable brightly coloured birds
Day 3Today we were fortunate to be allowed to move
ourselves and our equipment into government-
owned lodgings within the park Our first
mission was to set our cameras up at a place
where we had heard the heavy distinctive
rushing of wings and calls of hornbills (described
by some as sounding like the puffing of a steam
locomotive) the day before
We had expected a long wait but already had
our first shots of this impressive bird in the
can before breakfast We spent many hours
photographing hornbills macaque and other
wildlife
We even stumbled upon a pack of Asian wild
dogs gathered around the carcass of a recently
killed deer We thought our wildlife encounters
for the day were over as we sat down to enjoy
dinner only to be disturbed by scuffling sounds
behind our bungalow The noise was being
made by a pair of porcupines who were not in
the least afraid of us and actually attempted to
chase us away
Day 4The day was spent exploring the trails of Khao Yai and discovering among other wildlife a magnificent
crested serpent eagle As the afternoon drew to a close we decided to take one last trip to the watchtower
From here we witnessed the gathering of a large flock of hornbills We showed some of our footage to a
friendly ranger He was particularly interested in our bear shots We were thrilled to be told that it was very
rare to see a black bear even more so when we were informed that none of the rangers had seen one for
a number of months I decided to leave the tower to find a good place to photograph the sunset Within
a matter of minutes I heard someone scream ldquoBEARrdquo and was back up the stairs in seconds There below
us taking an evening stroll through the grass just metres from where we were perched was another much
younger black bear
Our trip could not have ended better Needless
to say Thai Guru thoroughly recommends a visit
to Khao Yai National Park As already mentioned
the park is popular with both local and foreign
tourists especially on holidays and weekends
We advise that you try to visit during the week
when the park is quieter and the chance of
seeing the amazing wildlife is greater
The park has two camping grounds as well as a
few bungalows that can be booked through the
Department of National Parks Wildlife and Plant
Conservation These need to be booked well
in advance However there are also plenty of
guesthouses and hotels are to be found along
the parkrsquos boundaries
Festival of LanternsThe enchanting atmosphere of Loi Krathong
The weather is cooling down and itrsquos
that time of year again when we all
take to the waterways of Thailand and
give praise to Khongkha the water
Goddess who took care of abundant
rainfall in the past raining season
Donrsquot miss this joyful celebration with
its enchanting atmosphere that brings
one and all in Thailand together
much like Songkran
Thailandrsquos lsquoFestival of Lightsrsquo is celebrated
throughout the kingdom on the night of the
November full moon The end of the rainy
season heralds the coolest months in the
countryrsquos calendar when the river waters are
also supposed to be at their highest
Superstition replaces religion on this night as
thousands flock to the banks of the swollen
rivers and canals to release khratongs floating
tributes to the river spirits and Mother Water ndash
Phra Mae Khongkha In recent years the festival
has been revived in the ancient temples of
Thailandrsquos former capital Sukhothai
Visitors assemble in the Sukhothai Historical
Park with their banana leaf khratongs decorated
with flowers incense sticks and candles to take
part in a ceremony that dates back centuries
Sometimes a coin is added as gift to the spirits
The pretty rafts are then released onto the lake
with a wish
It was once believed that Loi Khratong
was actually created in Sukhothai by Nang
Nopphamas a lady of the court and consort
of the king In fact the celebration was adapted
by Thai Buddhists from a Brahmanical festival
adapted to honour Buddha
The khratong is meant to be a light on the
darkness of the water for Buddha A personrsquos
sins and negative thoughts are also believed to
float away with the colourful little raft Try adding
a lock of your hair for extra luck
Nearly 20 of the Northern provinces will be
showing off a dazzling selection of floats in the
Royal Khratongs Procession as well as holding a
Miss Nopphamat beauty contest
A competition is held for the most beautifully
designed khratong as well as plenty of other
Sukhothai arts and cultural performances
The Light-and-Sound Presentation at Wat
Mahathat explains the history and origins of
Sukhothai and Loi Khratong through dance
music prayer combat displays light effects and
fireworks No Loi Khratong would be complete
without fireworks and thankfully the Thais are
not shy when it comes to blowing things up in
the sky
Tra Kuan pond is the place to be for the floating
of the Royal Khratongs followed by more
firmament-filling pyrotechnics Wat Chana
Songkram is the venue for the Mahachat
sermon Khon Marked Dance and a Thai
classical music performance
Thai Guru decided to travel from Chiang Mai
to Sukhotai for this yearrsquos festivities Although
the heavens decided to open for most of the
celebrations on the final day the rain could not
dampen the celebrations and the spectacle was
jaw dropping
The only thing that was missing due to the rain
was a sky filled with khom loi the sky lanterns
usually released into the firmament in their
hundreds
Although the festivities officially last for the best
part of a week it is the last three days that are
the busiest
Visitors can join in with a range of activities
including fruit carving or just wander around the
historic park listening to live traditional music
watching Thai martial arts or join the parade
of dancers musicians and beauty contestants
all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured
costumes
There are numerous places to stay for the
duration of the festival but it is advisable to
book ahead if you can because this is a very
popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north
from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai
Chiang Mai Temples
A visit to a temple in Thailand is
unavoidable They are everywhere
We at Thai Guru are well aware that
because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can
quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang
Mai With this in mind (and because
the city is overflowing with hundreds
of them) we have chosen a few of
our favourites we hope are slightly
alternative to the ones on the usual
tourist itinerary
Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to
the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its
latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of
the skills of the local silversmiths Like many
of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was
established several centuries ago The ubosoth
or ordination hall is an intricately designed
silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in
the sunlight
The area around Wua Lai has been the home to
silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past
couple of centuries who are famed throughout
the kingdom for creating detailed embossed
relief patterns on the objects they create
something that is immediately evident and
celebrated at Wat Srisuphan
The larger more traditionally decorated red blue
and gold prayer hall also contains impressive
silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos
life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft
museum
Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the
artisans at work and the temple has its own
silver-working school where apprentices are
trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive
Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved
in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-
robed residents of the temple improve their
linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also
available
Unfortunately women are not allowed to
enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this
is explained on a sign outside the wording of
which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in
the monastic boundary many precious things
incantations amulets and other holy objects
were buried over 500 years ago Entering
inside this area may deteriorated the place or
otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most
of the interior can be appreciated from the
doorway
Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous
for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged
Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai
Due to its being less well advertised than its
neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham
is often a more peaceful temple from which
to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang
Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist
Lent when the place was alive with worshippers
Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once
the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic
giants Following a visit from the Buddha the
giants decided to mend their ways stop eating
their neighbours and convert to Buddhism
For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and
offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the
templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally
constructed towards the end of the 7th century
Although the temple fell into disrepair over the
centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered
a chamber containing a number of Buddha
images The discovery led to the revitalisation of
this mountain top temple
The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are
guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured
sword-wielding warriors The courtyard
overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and
bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of
food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the
road leading to the temple
Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-
west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek
and easily accessible by car or taxi
Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai
was being established the name translates
as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably
because it was used to cast Buddha images for
its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The
entrance to the temple is through a small but
intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos
assembly hall is notable because it is one of the
only viharns of its type constructed solely from
teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a
superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock
astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference
to the king who once used the wooden hall as
his palace The gilded image features mythical
creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured
glass
The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite
from the busy road outside Wooden boxes
contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm
leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a
large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors
Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks
like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a
small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less
imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo
temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru
recommends a quick visit if you are passing
Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous
temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi
Luang
The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the
largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it
was damaged either by an earthquake in the
16th century or cannon fire from the guns
of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese
in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO
funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps
up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga
serpents and a group of five elephants (only the
one without a trunk or ears partially survived
whatever caused the structure to collapse the
others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi
was also once home to one of the most revered
religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald
Buddha Although the original now resides in
Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and
once again looks out over the city from a niche
on the east side of the structure
Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and
now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly
hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance
is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a
great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar
housed in a building at the base of the tree
Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although
one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few
alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed
Mae Hong Son
It is said that Mae Hong Son is the
most authentic and mountainous
province of Thailand For Thai Guru a
good reason to explore this province
side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai
province
Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of
Thailand The northern most part of this
province is at a distance of 924 km from
Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province
in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son
borders Myanmar On the south and east side it
borders Tak and Chiang Mai province
We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast
on the 108 road The scenery is woody and
mountainous so far so good And as we leave
the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek
for wildlife and beautiful landscapes
The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage
is that our average speed drops to less than
15 km hour No worries when you do trips
like these the clock stops and the only thing
on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning
landscapes that unfold before your eyes
The main road is well paved But as you might
understand we regularly go off road
This is the best way to come into contact with
locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo
While we are standing somewhere taking in the
beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a
falcon calling
A short walk through the forrest the sound
stops and we decide to sit down for some
water and well earned rest After a short while I
hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo
There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters
above us a white rumped falcon
Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras
it stays there and even when we start making
noises because we want to film it in flight it
takes itrsquos time
Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of
Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They
cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more
Of course they also have their own cattle And
walking through one of their small villages they
are very friendly and hospitable
It has to be said it is never smart to enter
a community or people with your camera
as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask
the people if they mind if you taking their
photograph or want to film their daily life
In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to
the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean
and offers a nice variety food on the terrace
with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city
where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists
Really nice to stroll down the walking street and
find food or a nice souvenir People are very
friendly as usual
From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae
Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an
average speed of 15 km hour
Halfway we jump out of the car into a river
Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to
keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn
but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around
without it
Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome
us and are gladly willing to allow us to make
photographs and film them
In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early
morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises
For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum
After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark
Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon
So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team
ChinatownBangkok
Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese
people in big cities around the world
Manhattan San Francisco Manilla
Paris and Boston have them and
more keep being officially recognised
in their role as historical and touristic
center every year Even places like
Dubai and Las Vegas have modern
day versions of this phenomenon
As soon as you pass under one of the famous
large red entrance arches you arrive in a
complete different world
A world that is paradise for photographers
A couple of the photographers in the Thai
Guru team decided to spend some time in the
Bangkok version of Chinatown
If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for
some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at
Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim
Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat
SLEEPY NANA dream destination
Relatively unknown and uncrowded
Nan has it all This gem of a province
hides an abundance of cultural and
natural attractions ancient temples
pristine forests rivers mountain
peaks but what strikes you most is
its omnipresent feel of an untroubled
authentic way of life
Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings
you this genuine feel in pictures and footage
For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of
Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant
nature and the nature of its people show
Thailand - as is often said before hordes of
tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas
it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan
managed to escape this proces but will it stay
that way Nan shares most of its border with
neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening
of the border and beyond towards China it is to
be expected that it will ultimately become an
important gateway for trade and tourism
Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town
and the countryside will enchant you and the natural
cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy
for at least a couple of days The town along the banks
of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base
to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night
life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous
temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue
influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The
great surroundings can best be explored by renting a
motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo
Much of the province is devoted to farming
Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still
being practised in areas of the province resulting
in a landscape where forests and fields alternate
Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside
of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature
peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich
natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the
province sees far fewer visitors than popular
neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You
can go white water rafting on the Wa River
along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim
National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay
overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes
Touring Nan
Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern
lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities
of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old
salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via
endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges
and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with
orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers
Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready
to be harvested broke through the green hills
giving a golden hue to the landscape
We encountered friendly villagers who worked
their way through the dry fields - meanwhile
singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to
supplement their meager incomes Despite their
hardship they showed us their heartwarming
hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes
with us
This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi
Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and
sparsely populated that we only passed two
cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos
difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand
nowadays
PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river
The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness
begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over
the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above
the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is
broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices
Then the carved image of a Naga becomes
visible above the water line followed by more
than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted
in red and gold colorshellip
During the year the remote provincial town
of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a
year for the annual spectacle of traditional
Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos
water artery The finals are held over two
days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos
banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite
team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in
Thailand yet relatively unknown
The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long
simple shelters where the massive dragon boats
are housed during the year Just once a year
they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos
most important sporting and social event The
event takes place right after the end of the
rainy season around early November when
water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at
their highest The colorful races are part of the
festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the
last day of Buddhist Lent in October
The narrow boats are made from massive
hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters
in length depending how many paddlers they
are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily
distinguishable by their use of bright colors and
mythical designs in the traditional local style
The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of
each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting
only the good ones to participate in their race
How to get there
Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is
connected by plane and by bus to the rest of
the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan
Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice
each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to
Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to
Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on
the service
Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan
(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8
hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)
The contestants of the races are classified into
three categories mdashlarge medium and small
boats Depending on their length each boat can
accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers
sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the
same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously
against the current to the frantic beating of a
drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern
The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying
their attempt to reach the finish line first and
the paddles churning up the river creates a
spectacular atmosphere
Son
g K
ran
in
Ch
ian
g M
ai
Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of
the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down
in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The
days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing
steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the
hot months of April and May The stifling mid-
day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out
unless necessary The buzz around town about
some festival called Song Kran is starting to
increase an underlying excitement rising
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
contact us
infothaigurumagazinecom
All videos in this magazine are
available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
A Morning with an Elephant Vet
A 45 minute drive through the morning traffic
heading towards Mae Taeng located to the
north of Chiang Mai on our way to visit an
elephant park One of many elephant camps or
parks around Thailand catering for the gawking
tourists taking them on elephant rides and
doing tricks like playing football or painting
pictures However few travellers ever give a
second thought about the actual welfare of
these great creatures whose natural habitat
has been eroded away Our focus today was
going to be the work of a local veterinarian who
has spent the last 4 years with the Mae Taeng
Elephant Park and Clinic running their veterinary
facility
Upon our arrival I headed off to meet with the
parks general manager Khun Nu who informed
us that their resident vet would be arriving
shortly After a short wander around the park we
headed in the direction of the medical facilities
which comprised of what I would describe
as a kind of lsquowaiting roomrsquo area for the sick
elephants a large roofed structure able to house
several of the large animals Next to this was
one of two treatment areas again a large shed
construction with a very sturdy looking steel
frame set into the concrete floor to which the
elephants can be tethered while being seen by
the vet
Approaching the waiting area a slight figure
wearing a green surgical smock could be seen
with a mahout crouched under the head of a
young female elephant treating its neck the
first patient of the day The cow as females are
known was being treated for some sores around
the neck The vet was daubing the area with
disinfectant to help prevent infection working
quickly and efficiently in silence unaware of our
presence
The vet a 28 year old woman going by the
nickname of lsquoImrsquo (a short vowel sounding i as
in it) has been working at the elephant clinic
since she graduated 4 years previously from the
Faculty of Veterinary Medicine at Chiang Mai
University after completing a 6 year veterinary
degree Her love of these majestic creatures
was the focus of her dissertation Working daily
from 9 to 5 keeps her pretty busy with the park
employing her on a full-time basis
The second elephant to be seen by Im was
housed in an older treatment area nearby This
time the problem was a cut on the bottom of its
foot caused by walking on some glass
With the elephants mahout on-hand to assist
Im first had to check to see if there was any
remaining glass in the wound This done the next
stage was cleaning the injury which was done
using a giant foot bath
The elephantrsquos mahout guided the elephant into
position so that her front feet would be standing
in the disinfecting solution But rather than just
walking the animal through the solution the
elephant had to stand patiently with its feet in the
foot bath for a whole hour
During the treatment the elephantrsquos tether was lying unsecured on the floor but she stood calmly allowing
the vet to do her task even being in some discomfort It shows how trusting these animals can be with
humans The female elephant must have known that Im was there to help her
During an average day Im will treat 4 or 5 elephants usually foot injuries and other such problems as we
witnessed that morning cleaning and disinfecting wounds to prevent infection When she does have
a quieter day Imrsquos time is taken up with the general wellbeing of the elephants with nail trimming and
administrating drugs However her work isnrsquot limited to the park elephants
On occasion elephants outside the park require help so they can contact Im who will go out to the
surrounding area and provide a mobile clinic This service is provided free of charge courtesy of the park and
is a much appreciated service to the elephants who do not have a fixed home and whose mahouts cannot
otherwise afford treatment for their animals
With the sun approaching the meridian we said our farewells and headed back to town with the peace of
mind knowing that the magnificent elephants would be in the capable hands of Im the vet who cares and
treats them day to day
International Training Massage School
On a peaceful street a short walk from Chiang
Mairsquos old city is the International Training Massage
School An airy modern building in the traditional
Lanna style welcomes beginners seeking to learn
the basics of traditional Thai massage as well as
seasoned massage professionals looking to expand
their skills
Thai Guru is well used to being on the receiving
end of a skilful pair of hands of belonging to an
experienced masseuse so were pleased to be
invited to join the students at ITM to learn a bit more
about the training that is required to perform one of
the best things about living in Thailand
Chiang Mai is a mecca for those wishing to
spend a few days a few weeks or a few months
learning the art of Nuad Boran or lsquoancient
Thai Massagersquo Massage is serious business
in this part of the world and schools like ITM
tech everything from introduction courses
to advanced teacher training There are also
some quite specific classes on offer including
pregnancy massage hot stone healing massage
and infant massage
The ITM students turn up to begin their studies
early in the morning Shoes and sandals are left
outside the building next to a decorative koi
carp pond comfortable loose fitting pyjamas
are donned feet are washed and it is off to one
of the yoga studios to settle down and the first
blessing of the day Prayers are offered up by
students and teachers to Dr Shivago Komarpaj
Buddharsquos physician and the father of Thai
massage
Traditional Thai massage is practiced without
oils unguents or lotions and both giver and
receiver keep their clothes on The therapy
involves the compression rocking stretching
and manipulation of the joints and muscles
rather than the rubbing and stroking often
employed in other forms of massage
Once the prayers and blessings have been given up it is time for the students to get themselves ready for
the dayrsquos exertions by stretching To the relaxing sounds of flute music a teacher guides the trainees through
a set of yoga moves On the morning Thai Guru visited there were fifteen students being gently told to
assume the lsquosupermanrsquo and kick their legs into the air for the lsquoreverse bicyclersquo
We were informed that the combination of rhythmic stretches traditionally used by yogis and hermits (who
probably better than anyone know the importance of a good stretch) as well as warming up the studentsrsquo
bodies help the novices to understand better what they will be doing to the bodies of those they are about
to massage
A short break for coffee and bananas in a quiet courtyard watched over by a shrine to Dr Shivago and itrsquos
back to the classroom for a demonstration of the significance of some basic Nuad Boran moves The
students gather round books with detailed diagrams open on their laps to study how to perfect moves like
lsquothe flamingorsquo and lsquothe last tangorsquo among others
The founder of the school Mr Chongkol Setthakorn takes over the class for
the serious task of making sure the students have been paying attention and
arenrsquot in the process of giving each other hernias A quick prayer is said and
the real business of bending stretching and joint crunching begins
The students we met had been training for between three and four weeks
However courses at ITM and indeed at schools across Chiang Mai can be
tailored to fit the requirements of anyone who wishes to get involved in an
activity that gives enormous pleasure to both the giver and receiver - as Mr
Settakorn astutely explains ldquoThai Massage is like a thousand gentle waves
washing over the bodyrdquo
ITM ndash International Training Massage School
599 Chang Puak Road
Soi 4 Chor
Sriphum
Muang Chiang Mai
50200 THAILAND
Phone +66-5321-8632
Mobile +66-83-763-1002
Email itmitmthaimassagecom
wwwitmthaimassagecom
Krabi dream destination
After a couple of weeks traveling through
Thailand many are looking for the
perfect location to spend their last days
of their vancation Perfection doesnrsquot
exist but dream destination Krabi is gets
close
Located in the south west of Thailand
Krabi is also thanks to its airport an easy
destination to reach
You will notice the friendly atmosphere in this
area of Thailand right away
A couple of must sees like the Emerald Pond
and the Hot Waterfall are definitely worth your
visit Imagine relaxing in a the hot waterfall
under the exotic trees
And of course an island tour is a must when
you are in Krabi
By boat you can visit Por da Koh Hong Koh Kai
and the famous Pranang cave
Khao Yai National Park
Since establishing Thai Guru Magazine
we have been eager to take our
cameras to Khao Yai National Park
Having visited the area previously
I had already enjoyed the beauty
of Khao Yai and the abundance of
wildlife to be seen there and was keen
to share it with the rest of the team
Finally at the end of January we
jumped in the car for the long drive
south from
Chiang Mai
Three hours northeast of Bangkok Khao Yai
is the oldest and third largest national park
in Thailand Grasslands evergreen forests
monsoon forests and rain forests cover more
than 2000 square kilometres of this Unesco
World Heritage site
The park is teeming with wildlife Mammals
including elephant gibbon barking deer and
guar live within the parkrsquos borders The area
is also home to carnivores such as Asian wild
dogs and tigers as well as numerous reptiles and
amphibians including king cobras pythons and
monitor lizards Nearly 400 species of bird can
be found at Khao Yai Other attractions in this
trekkersrsquo paradise include several large waterfalls
The 20 metre Haew Suwat waterfall with is
deep pool was made famous by the film lsquoThe
Beachrsquo
Day 1The road leading to the gates of Khao Yai National Park is notable for its
numerous Italian influenced restaurants hotels and guesthouses A paradise
for pizza and pasta lovers there is even a small Italian-style village with ice-
cream parlours eateries and Italian themed guesthouses Almost immediately
after entering the park we were greeted by the sight of black giant squirrels
and pig tailed macaques clamouring in the canopy all around us Our first stop
was the visitor centre where we picked up a map of the park and other useful
information Outside were several sambar deer picking through restaurant
leftovers The rest of the day was spent exploring spots in which to set up
our cameras the following day We also made the first of several walks to the
observation tower adjacent to Nong Pak Chee reservoir As well as fabulous
views of the park the tower overlooks a saltlick where all manner of wildlife
gathers to suck up vital minerals and nutrients
Day 2Khao Yai is extremely popular with visitors and we could only
book lodging within its borders for the last two days of our trip
This meant an early start so we could get into the park in time to
shoot the sunrise We were the first visitors of the day and drove
to one of the places we had explored the day before We came
across what we thought was one of the many sambar or barking
deer that roam freely around the park We decided to take a
closer look only to find we had stumbled across an Asiatic black
bear half hidden in the morning mist Having spotted us after a
few minutes the handsome creature ambled off into the forest
The dawn had barely broken and our day was already a triumph
The rest of our time was spent following gibbons various varieties
deer and innumerable brightly coloured birds
Day 3Today we were fortunate to be allowed to move
ourselves and our equipment into government-
owned lodgings within the park Our first
mission was to set our cameras up at a place
where we had heard the heavy distinctive
rushing of wings and calls of hornbills (described
by some as sounding like the puffing of a steam
locomotive) the day before
We had expected a long wait but already had
our first shots of this impressive bird in the
can before breakfast We spent many hours
photographing hornbills macaque and other
wildlife
We even stumbled upon a pack of Asian wild
dogs gathered around the carcass of a recently
killed deer We thought our wildlife encounters
for the day were over as we sat down to enjoy
dinner only to be disturbed by scuffling sounds
behind our bungalow The noise was being
made by a pair of porcupines who were not in
the least afraid of us and actually attempted to
chase us away
Day 4The day was spent exploring the trails of Khao Yai and discovering among other wildlife a magnificent
crested serpent eagle As the afternoon drew to a close we decided to take one last trip to the watchtower
From here we witnessed the gathering of a large flock of hornbills We showed some of our footage to a
friendly ranger He was particularly interested in our bear shots We were thrilled to be told that it was very
rare to see a black bear even more so when we were informed that none of the rangers had seen one for
a number of months I decided to leave the tower to find a good place to photograph the sunset Within
a matter of minutes I heard someone scream ldquoBEARrdquo and was back up the stairs in seconds There below
us taking an evening stroll through the grass just metres from where we were perched was another much
younger black bear
Our trip could not have ended better Needless
to say Thai Guru thoroughly recommends a visit
to Khao Yai National Park As already mentioned
the park is popular with both local and foreign
tourists especially on holidays and weekends
We advise that you try to visit during the week
when the park is quieter and the chance of
seeing the amazing wildlife is greater
The park has two camping grounds as well as a
few bungalows that can be booked through the
Department of National Parks Wildlife and Plant
Conservation These need to be booked well
in advance However there are also plenty of
guesthouses and hotels are to be found along
the parkrsquos boundaries
Festival of LanternsThe enchanting atmosphere of Loi Krathong
The weather is cooling down and itrsquos
that time of year again when we all
take to the waterways of Thailand and
give praise to Khongkha the water
Goddess who took care of abundant
rainfall in the past raining season
Donrsquot miss this joyful celebration with
its enchanting atmosphere that brings
one and all in Thailand together
much like Songkran
Thailandrsquos lsquoFestival of Lightsrsquo is celebrated
throughout the kingdom on the night of the
November full moon The end of the rainy
season heralds the coolest months in the
countryrsquos calendar when the river waters are
also supposed to be at their highest
Superstition replaces religion on this night as
thousands flock to the banks of the swollen
rivers and canals to release khratongs floating
tributes to the river spirits and Mother Water ndash
Phra Mae Khongkha In recent years the festival
has been revived in the ancient temples of
Thailandrsquos former capital Sukhothai
Visitors assemble in the Sukhothai Historical
Park with their banana leaf khratongs decorated
with flowers incense sticks and candles to take
part in a ceremony that dates back centuries
Sometimes a coin is added as gift to the spirits
The pretty rafts are then released onto the lake
with a wish
It was once believed that Loi Khratong
was actually created in Sukhothai by Nang
Nopphamas a lady of the court and consort
of the king In fact the celebration was adapted
by Thai Buddhists from a Brahmanical festival
adapted to honour Buddha
The khratong is meant to be a light on the
darkness of the water for Buddha A personrsquos
sins and negative thoughts are also believed to
float away with the colourful little raft Try adding
a lock of your hair for extra luck
Nearly 20 of the Northern provinces will be
showing off a dazzling selection of floats in the
Royal Khratongs Procession as well as holding a
Miss Nopphamat beauty contest
A competition is held for the most beautifully
designed khratong as well as plenty of other
Sukhothai arts and cultural performances
The Light-and-Sound Presentation at Wat
Mahathat explains the history and origins of
Sukhothai and Loi Khratong through dance
music prayer combat displays light effects and
fireworks No Loi Khratong would be complete
without fireworks and thankfully the Thais are
not shy when it comes to blowing things up in
the sky
Tra Kuan pond is the place to be for the floating
of the Royal Khratongs followed by more
firmament-filling pyrotechnics Wat Chana
Songkram is the venue for the Mahachat
sermon Khon Marked Dance and a Thai
classical music performance
Thai Guru decided to travel from Chiang Mai
to Sukhotai for this yearrsquos festivities Although
the heavens decided to open for most of the
celebrations on the final day the rain could not
dampen the celebrations and the spectacle was
jaw dropping
The only thing that was missing due to the rain
was a sky filled with khom loi the sky lanterns
usually released into the firmament in their
hundreds
Although the festivities officially last for the best
part of a week it is the last three days that are
the busiest
Visitors can join in with a range of activities
including fruit carving or just wander around the
historic park listening to live traditional music
watching Thai martial arts or join the parade
of dancers musicians and beauty contestants
all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured
costumes
There are numerous places to stay for the
duration of the festival but it is advisable to
book ahead if you can because this is a very
popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north
from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai
Chiang Mai Temples
A visit to a temple in Thailand is
unavoidable They are everywhere
We at Thai Guru are well aware that
because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can
quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang
Mai With this in mind (and because
the city is overflowing with hundreds
of them) we have chosen a few of
our favourites we hope are slightly
alternative to the ones on the usual
tourist itinerary
Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to
the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its
latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of
the skills of the local silversmiths Like many
of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was
established several centuries ago The ubosoth
or ordination hall is an intricately designed
silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in
the sunlight
The area around Wua Lai has been the home to
silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past
couple of centuries who are famed throughout
the kingdom for creating detailed embossed
relief patterns on the objects they create
something that is immediately evident and
celebrated at Wat Srisuphan
The larger more traditionally decorated red blue
and gold prayer hall also contains impressive
silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos
life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft
museum
Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the
artisans at work and the temple has its own
silver-working school where apprentices are
trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive
Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved
in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-
robed residents of the temple improve their
linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also
available
Unfortunately women are not allowed to
enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this
is explained on a sign outside the wording of
which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in
the monastic boundary many precious things
incantations amulets and other holy objects
were buried over 500 years ago Entering
inside this area may deteriorated the place or
otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most
of the interior can be appreciated from the
doorway
Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous
for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged
Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai
Due to its being less well advertised than its
neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham
is often a more peaceful temple from which
to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang
Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist
Lent when the place was alive with worshippers
Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once
the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic
giants Following a visit from the Buddha the
giants decided to mend their ways stop eating
their neighbours and convert to Buddhism
For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and
offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the
templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally
constructed towards the end of the 7th century
Although the temple fell into disrepair over the
centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered
a chamber containing a number of Buddha
images The discovery led to the revitalisation of
this mountain top temple
The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are
guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured
sword-wielding warriors The courtyard
overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and
bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of
food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the
road leading to the temple
Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-
west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek
and easily accessible by car or taxi
Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai
was being established the name translates
as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably
because it was used to cast Buddha images for
its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The
entrance to the temple is through a small but
intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos
assembly hall is notable because it is one of the
only viharns of its type constructed solely from
teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a
superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock
astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference
to the king who once used the wooden hall as
his palace The gilded image features mythical
creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured
glass
The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite
from the busy road outside Wooden boxes
contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm
leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a
large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors
Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks
like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a
small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less
imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo
temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru
recommends a quick visit if you are passing
Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous
temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi
Luang
The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the
largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it
was damaged either by an earthquake in the
16th century or cannon fire from the guns
of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese
in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO
funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps
up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga
serpents and a group of five elephants (only the
one without a trunk or ears partially survived
whatever caused the structure to collapse the
others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi
was also once home to one of the most revered
religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald
Buddha Although the original now resides in
Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and
once again looks out over the city from a niche
on the east side of the structure
Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and
now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly
hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance
is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a
great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar
housed in a building at the base of the tree
Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although
one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few
alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed
Mae Hong Son
It is said that Mae Hong Son is the
most authentic and mountainous
province of Thailand For Thai Guru a
good reason to explore this province
side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai
province
Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of
Thailand The northern most part of this
province is at a distance of 924 km from
Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province
in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son
borders Myanmar On the south and east side it
borders Tak and Chiang Mai province
We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast
on the 108 road The scenery is woody and
mountainous so far so good And as we leave
the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek
for wildlife and beautiful landscapes
The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage
is that our average speed drops to less than
15 km hour No worries when you do trips
like these the clock stops and the only thing
on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning
landscapes that unfold before your eyes
The main road is well paved But as you might
understand we regularly go off road
This is the best way to come into contact with
locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo
While we are standing somewhere taking in the
beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a
falcon calling
A short walk through the forrest the sound
stops and we decide to sit down for some
water and well earned rest After a short while I
hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo
There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters
above us a white rumped falcon
Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras
it stays there and even when we start making
noises because we want to film it in flight it
takes itrsquos time
Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of
Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They
cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more
Of course they also have their own cattle And
walking through one of their small villages they
are very friendly and hospitable
It has to be said it is never smart to enter
a community or people with your camera
as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask
the people if they mind if you taking their
photograph or want to film their daily life
In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to
the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean
and offers a nice variety food on the terrace
with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city
where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists
Really nice to stroll down the walking street and
find food or a nice souvenir People are very
friendly as usual
From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae
Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an
average speed of 15 km hour
Halfway we jump out of the car into a river
Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to
keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn
but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around
without it
Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome
us and are gladly willing to allow us to make
photographs and film them
In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early
morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises
For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum
After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark
Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon
So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team
ChinatownBangkok
Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese
people in big cities around the world
Manhattan San Francisco Manilla
Paris and Boston have them and
more keep being officially recognised
in their role as historical and touristic
center every year Even places like
Dubai and Las Vegas have modern
day versions of this phenomenon
As soon as you pass under one of the famous
large red entrance arches you arrive in a
complete different world
A world that is paradise for photographers
A couple of the photographers in the Thai
Guru team decided to spend some time in the
Bangkok version of Chinatown
If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for
some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at
Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim
Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat
SLEEPY NANA dream destination
Relatively unknown and uncrowded
Nan has it all This gem of a province
hides an abundance of cultural and
natural attractions ancient temples
pristine forests rivers mountain
peaks but what strikes you most is
its omnipresent feel of an untroubled
authentic way of life
Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings
you this genuine feel in pictures and footage
For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of
Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant
nature and the nature of its people show
Thailand - as is often said before hordes of
tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas
it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan
managed to escape this proces but will it stay
that way Nan shares most of its border with
neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening
of the border and beyond towards China it is to
be expected that it will ultimately become an
important gateway for trade and tourism
Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town
and the countryside will enchant you and the natural
cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy
for at least a couple of days The town along the banks
of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base
to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night
life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous
temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue
influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The
great surroundings can best be explored by renting a
motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo
Much of the province is devoted to farming
Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still
being practised in areas of the province resulting
in a landscape where forests and fields alternate
Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside
of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature
peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich
natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the
province sees far fewer visitors than popular
neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You
can go white water rafting on the Wa River
along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim
National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay
overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes
Touring Nan
Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern
lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities
of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old
salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via
endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges
and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with
orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers
Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready
to be harvested broke through the green hills
giving a golden hue to the landscape
We encountered friendly villagers who worked
their way through the dry fields - meanwhile
singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to
supplement their meager incomes Despite their
hardship they showed us their heartwarming
hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes
with us
This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi
Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and
sparsely populated that we only passed two
cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos
difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand
nowadays
PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river
The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness
begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over
the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above
the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is
broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices
Then the carved image of a Naga becomes
visible above the water line followed by more
than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted
in red and gold colorshellip
During the year the remote provincial town
of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a
year for the annual spectacle of traditional
Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos
water artery The finals are held over two
days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos
banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite
team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in
Thailand yet relatively unknown
The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long
simple shelters where the massive dragon boats
are housed during the year Just once a year
they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos
most important sporting and social event The
event takes place right after the end of the
rainy season around early November when
water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at
their highest The colorful races are part of the
festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the
last day of Buddhist Lent in October
The narrow boats are made from massive
hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters
in length depending how many paddlers they
are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily
distinguishable by their use of bright colors and
mythical designs in the traditional local style
The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of
each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting
only the good ones to participate in their race
How to get there
Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is
connected by plane and by bus to the rest of
the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan
Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice
each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to
Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to
Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on
the service
Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan
(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8
hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)
The contestants of the races are classified into
three categories mdashlarge medium and small
boats Depending on their length each boat can
accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers
sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the
same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously
against the current to the frantic beating of a
drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern
The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying
their attempt to reach the finish line first and
the paddles churning up the river creates a
spectacular atmosphere
Son
g K
ran
in
Ch
ian
g M
ai
Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of
the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down
in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The
days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing
steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the
hot months of April and May The stifling mid-
day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out
unless necessary The buzz around town about
some festival called Song Kran is starting to
increase an underlying excitement rising
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
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To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
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infothaigurumagazinecom
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available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
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The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
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These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
A 45 minute drive through the morning traffic
heading towards Mae Taeng located to the
north of Chiang Mai on our way to visit an
elephant park One of many elephant camps or
parks around Thailand catering for the gawking
tourists taking them on elephant rides and
doing tricks like playing football or painting
pictures However few travellers ever give a
second thought about the actual welfare of
these great creatures whose natural habitat
has been eroded away Our focus today was
going to be the work of a local veterinarian who
has spent the last 4 years with the Mae Taeng
Elephant Park and Clinic running their veterinary
facility
Upon our arrival I headed off to meet with the
parks general manager Khun Nu who informed
us that their resident vet would be arriving
shortly After a short wander around the park we
headed in the direction of the medical facilities
which comprised of what I would describe
as a kind of lsquowaiting roomrsquo area for the sick
elephants a large roofed structure able to house
several of the large animals Next to this was
one of two treatment areas again a large shed
construction with a very sturdy looking steel
frame set into the concrete floor to which the
elephants can be tethered while being seen by
the vet
Approaching the waiting area a slight figure
wearing a green surgical smock could be seen
with a mahout crouched under the head of a
young female elephant treating its neck the
first patient of the day The cow as females are
known was being treated for some sores around
the neck The vet was daubing the area with
disinfectant to help prevent infection working
quickly and efficiently in silence unaware of our
presence
The vet a 28 year old woman going by the
nickname of lsquoImrsquo (a short vowel sounding i as
in it) has been working at the elephant clinic
since she graduated 4 years previously from the
Faculty of Veterinary Medicine at Chiang Mai
University after completing a 6 year veterinary
degree Her love of these majestic creatures
was the focus of her dissertation Working daily
from 9 to 5 keeps her pretty busy with the park
employing her on a full-time basis
The second elephant to be seen by Im was
housed in an older treatment area nearby This
time the problem was a cut on the bottom of its
foot caused by walking on some glass
With the elephants mahout on-hand to assist
Im first had to check to see if there was any
remaining glass in the wound This done the next
stage was cleaning the injury which was done
using a giant foot bath
The elephantrsquos mahout guided the elephant into
position so that her front feet would be standing
in the disinfecting solution But rather than just
walking the animal through the solution the
elephant had to stand patiently with its feet in the
foot bath for a whole hour
During the treatment the elephantrsquos tether was lying unsecured on the floor but she stood calmly allowing
the vet to do her task even being in some discomfort It shows how trusting these animals can be with
humans The female elephant must have known that Im was there to help her
During an average day Im will treat 4 or 5 elephants usually foot injuries and other such problems as we
witnessed that morning cleaning and disinfecting wounds to prevent infection When she does have
a quieter day Imrsquos time is taken up with the general wellbeing of the elephants with nail trimming and
administrating drugs However her work isnrsquot limited to the park elephants
On occasion elephants outside the park require help so they can contact Im who will go out to the
surrounding area and provide a mobile clinic This service is provided free of charge courtesy of the park and
is a much appreciated service to the elephants who do not have a fixed home and whose mahouts cannot
otherwise afford treatment for their animals
With the sun approaching the meridian we said our farewells and headed back to town with the peace of
mind knowing that the magnificent elephants would be in the capable hands of Im the vet who cares and
treats them day to day
International Training Massage School
On a peaceful street a short walk from Chiang
Mairsquos old city is the International Training Massage
School An airy modern building in the traditional
Lanna style welcomes beginners seeking to learn
the basics of traditional Thai massage as well as
seasoned massage professionals looking to expand
their skills
Thai Guru is well used to being on the receiving
end of a skilful pair of hands of belonging to an
experienced masseuse so were pleased to be
invited to join the students at ITM to learn a bit more
about the training that is required to perform one of
the best things about living in Thailand
Chiang Mai is a mecca for those wishing to
spend a few days a few weeks or a few months
learning the art of Nuad Boran or lsquoancient
Thai Massagersquo Massage is serious business
in this part of the world and schools like ITM
tech everything from introduction courses
to advanced teacher training There are also
some quite specific classes on offer including
pregnancy massage hot stone healing massage
and infant massage
The ITM students turn up to begin their studies
early in the morning Shoes and sandals are left
outside the building next to a decorative koi
carp pond comfortable loose fitting pyjamas
are donned feet are washed and it is off to one
of the yoga studios to settle down and the first
blessing of the day Prayers are offered up by
students and teachers to Dr Shivago Komarpaj
Buddharsquos physician and the father of Thai
massage
Traditional Thai massage is practiced without
oils unguents or lotions and both giver and
receiver keep their clothes on The therapy
involves the compression rocking stretching
and manipulation of the joints and muscles
rather than the rubbing and stroking often
employed in other forms of massage
Once the prayers and blessings have been given up it is time for the students to get themselves ready for
the dayrsquos exertions by stretching To the relaxing sounds of flute music a teacher guides the trainees through
a set of yoga moves On the morning Thai Guru visited there were fifteen students being gently told to
assume the lsquosupermanrsquo and kick their legs into the air for the lsquoreverse bicyclersquo
We were informed that the combination of rhythmic stretches traditionally used by yogis and hermits (who
probably better than anyone know the importance of a good stretch) as well as warming up the studentsrsquo
bodies help the novices to understand better what they will be doing to the bodies of those they are about
to massage
A short break for coffee and bananas in a quiet courtyard watched over by a shrine to Dr Shivago and itrsquos
back to the classroom for a demonstration of the significance of some basic Nuad Boran moves The
students gather round books with detailed diagrams open on their laps to study how to perfect moves like
lsquothe flamingorsquo and lsquothe last tangorsquo among others
The founder of the school Mr Chongkol Setthakorn takes over the class for
the serious task of making sure the students have been paying attention and
arenrsquot in the process of giving each other hernias A quick prayer is said and
the real business of bending stretching and joint crunching begins
The students we met had been training for between three and four weeks
However courses at ITM and indeed at schools across Chiang Mai can be
tailored to fit the requirements of anyone who wishes to get involved in an
activity that gives enormous pleasure to both the giver and receiver - as Mr
Settakorn astutely explains ldquoThai Massage is like a thousand gentle waves
washing over the bodyrdquo
ITM ndash International Training Massage School
599 Chang Puak Road
Soi 4 Chor
Sriphum
Muang Chiang Mai
50200 THAILAND
Phone +66-5321-8632
Mobile +66-83-763-1002
Email itmitmthaimassagecom
wwwitmthaimassagecom
Krabi dream destination
After a couple of weeks traveling through
Thailand many are looking for the
perfect location to spend their last days
of their vancation Perfection doesnrsquot
exist but dream destination Krabi is gets
close
Located in the south west of Thailand
Krabi is also thanks to its airport an easy
destination to reach
You will notice the friendly atmosphere in this
area of Thailand right away
A couple of must sees like the Emerald Pond
and the Hot Waterfall are definitely worth your
visit Imagine relaxing in a the hot waterfall
under the exotic trees
And of course an island tour is a must when
you are in Krabi
By boat you can visit Por da Koh Hong Koh Kai
and the famous Pranang cave
Khao Yai National Park
Since establishing Thai Guru Magazine
we have been eager to take our
cameras to Khao Yai National Park
Having visited the area previously
I had already enjoyed the beauty
of Khao Yai and the abundance of
wildlife to be seen there and was keen
to share it with the rest of the team
Finally at the end of January we
jumped in the car for the long drive
south from
Chiang Mai
Three hours northeast of Bangkok Khao Yai
is the oldest and third largest national park
in Thailand Grasslands evergreen forests
monsoon forests and rain forests cover more
than 2000 square kilometres of this Unesco
World Heritage site
The park is teeming with wildlife Mammals
including elephant gibbon barking deer and
guar live within the parkrsquos borders The area
is also home to carnivores such as Asian wild
dogs and tigers as well as numerous reptiles and
amphibians including king cobras pythons and
monitor lizards Nearly 400 species of bird can
be found at Khao Yai Other attractions in this
trekkersrsquo paradise include several large waterfalls
The 20 metre Haew Suwat waterfall with is
deep pool was made famous by the film lsquoThe
Beachrsquo
Day 1The road leading to the gates of Khao Yai National Park is notable for its
numerous Italian influenced restaurants hotels and guesthouses A paradise
for pizza and pasta lovers there is even a small Italian-style village with ice-
cream parlours eateries and Italian themed guesthouses Almost immediately
after entering the park we were greeted by the sight of black giant squirrels
and pig tailed macaques clamouring in the canopy all around us Our first stop
was the visitor centre where we picked up a map of the park and other useful
information Outside were several sambar deer picking through restaurant
leftovers The rest of the day was spent exploring spots in which to set up
our cameras the following day We also made the first of several walks to the
observation tower adjacent to Nong Pak Chee reservoir As well as fabulous
views of the park the tower overlooks a saltlick where all manner of wildlife
gathers to suck up vital minerals and nutrients
Day 2Khao Yai is extremely popular with visitors and we could only
book lodging within its borders for the last two days of our trip
This meant an early start so we could get into the park in time to
shoot the sunrise We were the first visitors of the day and drove
to one of the places we had explored the day before We came
across what we thought was one of the many sambar or barking
deer that roam freely around the park We decided to take a
closer look only to find we had stumbled across an Asiatic black
bear half hidden in the morning mist Having spotted us after a
few minutes the handsome creature ambled off into the forest
The dawn had barely broken and our day was already a triumph
The rest of our time was spent following gibbons various varieties
deer and innumerable brightly coloured birds
Day 3Today we were fortunate to be allowed to move
ourselves and our equipment into government-
owned lodgings within the park Our first
mission was to set our cameras up at a place
where we had heard the heavy distinctive
rushing of wings and calls of hornbills (described
by some as sounding like the puffing of a steam
locomotive) the day before
We had expected a long wait but already had
our first shots of this impressive bird in the
can before breakfast We spent many hours
photographing hornbills macaque and other
wildlife
We even stumbled upon a pack of Asian wild
dogs gathered around the carcass of a recently
killed deer We thought our wildlife encounters
for the day were over as we sat down to enjoy
dinner only to be disturbed by scuffling sounds
behind our bungalow The noise was being
made by a pair of porcupines who were not in
the least afraid of us and actually attempted to
chase us away
Day 4The day was spent exploring the trails of Khao Yai and discovering among other wildlife a magnificent
crested serpent eagle As the afternoon drew to a close we decided to take one last trip to the watchtower
From here we witnessed the gathering of a large flock of hornbills We showed some of our footage to a
friendly ranger He was particularly interested in our bear shots We were thrilled to be told that it was very
rare to see a black bear even more so when we were informed that none of the rangers had seen one for
a number of months I decided to leave the tower to find a good place to photograph the sunset Within
a matter of minutes I heard someone scream ldquoBEARrdquo and was back up the stairs in seconds There below
us taking an evening stroll through the grass just metres from where we were perched was another much
younger black bear
Our trip could not have ended better Needless
to say Thai Guru thoroughly recommends a visit
to Khao Yai National Park As already mentioned
the park is popular with both local and foreign
tourists especially on holidays and weekends
We advise that you try to visit during the week
when the park is quieter and the chance of
seeing the amazing wildlife is greater
The park has two camping grounds as well as a
few bungalows that can be booked through the
Department of National Parks Wildlife and Plant
Conservation These need to be booked well
in advance However there are also plenty of
guesthouses and hotels are to be found along
the parkrsquos boundaries
Festival of LanternsThe enchanting atmosphere of Loi Krathong
The weather is cooling down and itrsquos
that time of year again when we all
take to the waterways of Thailand and
give praise to Khongkha the water
Goddess who took care of abundant
rainfall in the past raining season
Donrsquot miss this joyful celebration with
its enchanting atmosphere that brings
one and all in Thailand together
much like Songkran
Thailandrsquos lsquoFestival of Lightsrsquo is celebrated
throughout the kingdom on the night of the
November full moon The end of the rainy
season heralds the coolest months in the
countryrsquos calendar when the river waters are
also supposed to be at their highest
Superstition replaces religion on this night as
thousands flock to the banks of the swollen
rivers and canals to release khratongs floating
tributes to the river spirits and Mother Water ndash
Phra Mae Khongkha In recent years the festival
has been revived in the ancient temples of
Thailandrsquos former capital Sukhothai
Visitors assemble in the Sukhothai Historical
Park with their banana leaf khratongs decorated
with flowers incense sticks and candles to take
part in a ceremony that dates back centuries
Sometimes a coin is added as gift to the spirits
The pretty rafts are then released onto the lake
with a wish
It was once believed that Loi Khratong
was actually created in Sukhothai by Nang
Nopphamas a lady of the court and consort
of the king In fact the celebration was adapted
by Thai Buddhists from a Brahmanical festival
adapted to honour Buddha
The khratong is meant to be a light on the
darkness of the water for Buddha A personrsquos
sins and negative thoughts are also believed to
float away with the colourful little raft Try adding
a lock of your hair for extra luck
Nearly 20 of the Northern provinces will be
showing off a dazzling selection of floats in the
Royal Khratongs Procession as well as holding a
Miss Nopphamat beauty contest
A competition is held for the most beautifully
designed khratong as well as plenty of other
Sukhothai arts and cultural performances
The Light-and-Sound Presentation at Wat
Mahathat explains the history and origins of
Sukhothai and Loi Khratong through dance
music prayer combat displays light effects and
fireworks No Loi Khratong would be complete
without fireworks and thankfully the Thais are
not shy when it comes to blowing things up in
the sky
Tra Kuan pond is the place to be for the floating
of the Royal Khratongs followed by more
firmament-filling pyrotechnics Wat Chana
Songkram is the venue for the Mahachat
sermon Khon Marked Dance and a Thai
classical music performance
Thai Guru decided to travel from Chiang Mai
to Sukhotai for this yearrsquos festivities Although
the heavens decided to open for most of the
celebrations on the final day the rain could not
dampen the celebrations and the spectacle was
jaw dropping
The only thing that was missing due to the rain
was a sky filled with khom loi the sky lanterns
usually released into the firmament in their
hundreds
Although the festivities officially last for the best
part of a week it is the last three days that are
the busiest
Visitors can join in with a range of activities
including fruit carving or just wander around the
historic park listening to live traditional music
watching Thai martial arts or join the parade
of dancers musicians and beauty contestants
all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured
costumes
There are numerous places to stay for the
duration of the festival but it is advisable to
book ahead if you can because this is a very
popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north
from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai
Chiang Mai Temples
A visit to a temple in Thailand is
unavoidable They are everywhere
We at Thai Guru are well aware that
because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can
quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang
Mai With this in mind (and because
the city is overflowing with hundreds
of them) we have chosen a few of
our favourites we hope are slightly
alternative to the ones on the usual
tourist itinerary
Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to
the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its
latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of
the skills of the local silversmiths Like many
of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was
established several centuries ago The ubosoth
or ordination hall is an intricately designed
silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in
the sunlight
The area around Wua Lai has been the home to
silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past
couple of centuries who are famed throughout
the kingdom for creating detailed embossed
relief patterns on the objects they create
something that is immediately evident and
celebrated at Wat Srisuphan
The larger more traditionally decorated red blue
and gold prayer hall also contains impressive
silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos
life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft
museum
Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the
artisans at work and the temple has its own
silver-working school where apprentices are
trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive
Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved
in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-
robed residents of the temple improve their
linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also
available
Unfortunately women are not allowed to
enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this
is explained on a sign outside the wording of
which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in
the monastic boundary many precious things
incantations amulets and other holy objects
were buried over 500 years ago Entering
inside this area may deteriorated the place or
otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most
of the interior can be appreciated from the
doorway
Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous
for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged
Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai
Due to its being less well advertised than its
neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham
is often a more peaceful temple from which
to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang
Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist
Lent when the place was alive with worshippers
Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once
the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic
giants Following a visit from the Buddha the
giants decided to mend their ways stop eating
their neighbours and convert to Buddhism
For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and
offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the
templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally
constructed towards the end of the 7th century
Although the temple fell into disrepair over the
centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered
a chamber containing a number of Buddha
images The discovery led to the revitalisation of
this mountain top temple
The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are
guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured
sword-wielding warriors The courtyard
overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and
bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of
food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the
road leading to the temple
Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-
west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek
and easily accessible by car or taxi
Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai
was being established the name translates
as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably
because it was used to cast Buddha images for
its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The
entrance to the temple is through a small but
intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos
assembly hall is notable because it is one of the
only viharns of its type constructed solely from
teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a
superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock
astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference
to the king who once used the wooden hall as
his palace The gilded image features mythical
creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured
glass
The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite
from the busy road outside Wooden boxes
contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm
leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a
large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors
Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks
like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a
small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less
imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo
temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru
recommends a quick visit if you are passing
Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous
temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi
Luang
The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the
largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it
was damaged either by an earthquake in the
16th century or cannon fire from the guns
of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese
in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO
funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps
up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga
serpents and a group of five elephants (only the
one without a trunk or ears partially survived
whatever caused the structure to collapse the
others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi
was also once home to one of the most revered
religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald
Buddha Although the original now resides in
Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and
once again looks out over the city from a niche
on the east side of the structure
Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and
now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly
hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance
is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a
great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar
housed in a building at the base of the tree
Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although
one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few
alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed
Mae Hong Son
It is said that Mae Hong Son is the
most authentic and mountainous
province of Thailand For Thai Guru a
good reason to explore this province
side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai
province
Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of
Thailand The northern most part of this
province is at a distance of 924 km from
Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province
in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son
borders Myanmar On the south and east side it
borders Tak and Chiang Mai province
We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast
on the 108 road The scenery is woody and
mountainous so far so good And as we leave
the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek
for wildlife and beautiful landscapes
The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage
is that our average speed drops to less than
15 km hour No worries when you do trips
like these the clock stops and the only thing
on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning
landscapes that unfold before your eyes
The main road is well paved But as you might
understand we regularly go off road
This is the best way to come into contact with
locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo
While we are standing somewhere taking in the
beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a
falcon calling
A short walk through the forrest the sound
stops and we decide to sit down for some
water and well earned rest After a short while I
hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo
There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters
above us a white rumped falcon
Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras
it stays there and even when we start making
noises because we want to film it in flight it
takes itrsquos time
Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of
Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They
cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more
Of course they also have their own cattle And
walking through one of their small villages they
are very friendly and hospitable
It has to be said it is never smart to enter
a community or people with your camera
as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask
the people if they mind if you taking their
photograph or want to film their daily life
In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to
the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean
and offers a nice variety food on the terrace
with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city
where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists
Really nice to stroll down the walking street and
find food or a nice souvenir People are very
friendly as usual
From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae
Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an
average speed of 15 km hour
Halfway we jump out of the car into a river
Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to
keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn
but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around
without it
Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome
us and are gladly willing to allow us to make
photographs and film them
In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early
morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises
For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum
After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark
Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon
So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team
ChinatownBangkok
Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese
people in big cities around the world
Manhattan San Francisco Manilla
Paris and Boston have them and
more keep being officially recognised
in their role as historical and touristic
center every year Even places like
Dubai and Las Vegas have modern
day versions of this phenomenon
As soon as you pass under one of the famous
large red entrance arches you arrive in a
complete different world
A world that is paradise for photographers
A couple of the photographers in the Thai
Guru team decided to spend some time in the
Bangkok version of Chinatown
If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for
some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at
Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim
Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat
SLEEPY NANA dream destination
Relatively unknown and uncrowded
Nan has it all This gem of a province
hides an abundance of cultural and
natural attractions ancient temples
pristine forests rivers mountain
peaks but what strikes you most is
its omnipresent feel of an untroubled
authentic way of life
Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings
you this genuine feel in pictures and footage
For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of
Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant
nature and the nature of its people show
Thailand - as is often said before hordes of
tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas
it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan
managed to escape this proces but will it stay
that way Nan shares most of its border with
neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening
of the border and beyond towards China it is to
be expected that it will ultimately become an
important gateway for trade and tourism
Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town
and the countryside will enchant you and the natural
cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy
for at least a couple of days The town along the banks
of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base
to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night
life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous
temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue
influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The
great surroundings can best be explored by renting a
motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo
Much of the province is devoted to farming
Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still
being practised in areas of the province resulting
in a landscape where forests and fields alternate
Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside
of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature
peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich
natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the
province sees far fewer visitors than popular
neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You
can go white water rafting on the Wa River
along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim
National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay
overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes
Touring Nan
Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern
lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities
of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old
salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via
endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges
and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with
orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers
Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready
to be harvested broke through the green hills
giving a golden hue to the landscape
We encountered friendly villagers who worked
their way through the dry fields - meanwhile
singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to
supplement their meager incomes Despite their
hardship they showed us their heartwarming
hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes
with us
This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi
Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and
sparsely populated that we only passed two
cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos
difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand
nowadays
PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river
The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness
begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over
the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above
the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is
broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices
Then the carved image of a Naga becomes
visible above the water line followed by more
than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted
in red and gold colorshellip
During the year the remote provincial town
of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a
year for the annual spectacle of traditional
Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos
water artery The finals are held over two
days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos
banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite
team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in
Thailand yet relatively unknown
The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long
simple shelters where the massive dragon boats
are housed during the year Just once a year
they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos
most important sporting and social event The
event takes place right after the end of the
rainy season around early November when
water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at
their highest The colorful races are part of the
festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the
last day of Buddhist Lent in October
The narrow boats are made from massive
hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters
in length depending how many paddlers they
are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily
distinguishable by their use of bright colors and
mythical designs in the traditional local style
The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of
each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting
only the good ones to participate in their race
How to get there
Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is
connected by plane and by bus to the rest of
the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan
Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice
each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to
Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to
Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on
the service
Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan
(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8
hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)
The contestants of the races are classified into
three categories mdashlarge medium and small
boats Depending on their length each boat can
accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers
sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the
same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously
against the current to the frantic beating of a
drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern
The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying
their attempt to reach the finish line first and
the paddles churning up the river creates a
spectacular atmosphere
Son
g K
ran
in
Ch
ian
g M
ai
Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of
the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down
in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The
days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing
steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the
hot months of April and May The stifling mid-
day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out
unless necessary The buzz around town about
some festival called Song Kran is starting to
increase an underlying excitement rising
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
contact us
infothaigurumagazinecom
All videos in this magazine are
available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
Upon our arrival I headed off to meet with the
parks general manager Khun Nu who informed
us that their resident vet would be arriving
shortly After a short wander around the park we
headed in the direction of the medical facilities
which comprised of what I would describe
as a kind of lsquowaiting roomrsquo area for the sick
elephants a large roofed structure able to house
several of the large animals Next to this was
one of two treatment areas again a large shed
construction with a very sturdy looking steel
frame set into the concrete floor to which the
elephants can be tethered while being seen by
the vet
Approaching the waiting area a slight figure
wearing a green surgical smock could be seen
with a mahout crouched under the head of a
young female elephant treating its neck the
first patient of the day The cow as females are
known was being treated for some sores around
the neck The vet was daubing the area with
disinfectant to help prevent infection working
quickly and efficiently in silence unaware of our
presence
The vet a 28 year old woman going by the
nickname of lsquoImrsquo (a short vowel sounding i as
in it) has been working at the elephant clinic
since she graduated 4 years previously from the
Faculty of Veterinary Medicine at Chiang Mai
University after completing a 6 year veterinary
degree Her love of these majestic creatures
was the focus of her dissertation Working daily
from 9 to 5 keeps her pretty busy with the park
employing her on a full-time basis
The second elephant to be seen by Im was
housed in an older treatment area nearby This
time the problem was a cut on the bottom of its
foot caused by walking on some glass
With the elephants mahout on-hand to assist
Im first had to check to see if there was any
remaining glass in the wound This done the next
stage was cleaning the injury which was done
using a giant foot bath
The elephantrsquos mahout guided the elephant into
position so that her front feet would be standing
in the disinfecting solution But rather than just
walking the animal through the solution the
elephant had to stand patiently with its feet in the
foot bath for a whole hour
During the treatment the elephantrsquos tether was lying unsecured on the floor but she stood calmly allowing
the vet to do her task even being in some discomfort It shows how trusting these animals can be with
humans The female elephant must have known that Im was there to help her
During an average day Im will treat 4 or 5 elephants usually foot injuries and other such problems as we
witnessed that morning cleaning and disinfecting wounds to prevent infection When she does have
a quieter day Imrsquos time is taken up with the general wellbeing of the elephants with nail trimming and
administrating drugs However her work isnrsquot limited to the park elephants
On occasion elephants outside the park require help so they can contact Im who will go out to the
surrounding area and provide a mobile clinic This service is provided free of charge courtesy of the park and
is a much appreciated service to the elephants who do not have a fixed home and whose mahouts cannot
otherwise afford treatment for their animals
With the sun approaching the meridian we said our farewells and headed back to town with the peace of
mind knowing that the magnificent elephants would be in the capable hands of Im the vet who cares and
treats them day to day
International Training Massage School
On a peaceful street a short walk from Chiang
Mairsquos old city is the International Training Massage
School An airy modern building in the traditional
Lanna style welcomes beginners seeking to learn
the basics of traditional Thai massage as well as
seasoned massage professionals looking to expand
their skills
Thai Guru is well used to being on the receiving
end of a skilful pair of hands of belonging to an
experienced masseuse so were pleased to be
invited to join the students at ITM to learn a bit more
about the training that is required to perform one of
the best things about living in Thailand
Chiang Mai is a mecca for those wishing to
spend a few days a few weeks or a few months
learning the art of Nuad Boran or lsquoancient
Thai Massagersquo Massage is serious business
in this part of the world and schools like ITM
tech everything from introduction courses
to advanced teacher training There are also
some quite specific classes on offer including
pregnancy massage hot stone healing massage
and infant massage
The ITM students turn up to begin their studies
early in the morning Shoes and sandals are left
outside the building next to a decorative koi
carp pond comfortable loose fitting pyjamas
are donned feet are washed and it is off to one
of the yoga studios to settle down and the first
blessing of the day Prayers are offered up by
students and teachers to Dr Shivago Komarpaj
Buddharsquos physician and the father of Thai
massage
Traditional Thai massage is practiced without
oils unguents or lotions and both giver and
receiver keep their clothes on The therapy
involves the compression rocking stretching
and manipulation of the joints and muscles
rather than the rubbing and stroking often
employed in other forms of massage
Once the prayers and blessings have been given up it is time for the students to get themselves ready for
the dayrsquos exertions by stretching To the relaxing sounds of flute music a teacher guides the trainees through
a set of yoga moves On the morning Thai Guru visited there were fifteen students being gently told to
assume the lsquosupermanrsquo and kick their legs into the air for the lsquoreverse bicyclersquo
We were informed that the combination of rhythmic stretches traditionally used by yogis and hermits (who
probably better than anyone know the importance of a good stretch) as well as warming up the studentsrsquo
bodies help the novices to understand better what they will be doing to the bodies of those they are about
to massage
A short break for coffee and bananas in a quiet courtyard watched over by a shrine to Dr Shivago and itrsquos
back to the classroom for a demonstration of the significance of some basic Nuad Boran moves The
students gather round books with detailed diagrams open on their laps to study how to perfect moves like
lsquothe flamingorsquo and lsquothe last tangorsquo among others
The founder of the school Mr Chongkol Setthakorn takes over the class for
the serious task of making sure the students have been paying attention and
arenrsquot in the process of giving each other hernias A quick prayer is said and
the real business of bending stretching and joint crunching begins
The students we met had been training for between three and four weeks
However courses at ITM and indeed at schools across Chiang Mai can be
tailored to fit the requirements of anyone who wishes to get involved in an
activity that gives enormous pleasure to both the giver and receiver - as Mr
Settakorn astutely explains ldquoThai Massage is like a thousand gentle waves
washing over the bodyrdquo
ITM ndash International Training Massage School
599 Chang Puak Road
Soi 4 Chor
Sriphum
Muang Chiang Mai
50200 THAILAND
Phone +66-5321-8632
Mobile +66-83-763-1002
Email itmitmthaimassagecom
wwwitmthaimassagecom
Krabi dream destination
After a couple of weeks traveling through
Thailand many are looking for the
perfect location to spend their last days
of their vancation Perfection doesnrsquot
exist but dream destination Krabi is gets
close
Located in the south west of Thailand
Krabi is also thanks to its airport an easy
destination to reach
You will notice the friendly atmosphere in this
area of Thailand right away
A couple of must sees like the Emerald Pond
and the Hot Waterfall are definitely worth your
visit Imagine relaxing in a the hot waterfall
under the exotic trees
And of course an island tour is a must when
you are in Krabi
By boat you can visit Por da Koh Hong Koh Kai
and the famous Pranang cave
Khao Yai National Park
Since establishing Thai Guru Magazine
we have been eager to take our
cameras to Khao Yai National Park
Having visited the area previously
I had already enjoyed the beauty
of Khao Yai and the abundance of
wildlife to be seen there and was keen
to share it with the rest of the team
Finally at the end of January we
jumped in the car for the long drive
south from
Chiang Mai
Three hours northeast of Bangkok Khao Yai
is the oldest and third largest national park
in Thailand Grasslands evergreen forests
monsoon forests and rain forests cover more
than 2000 square kilometres of this Unesco
World Heritage site
The park is teeming with wildlife Mammals
including elephant gibbon barking deer and
guar live within the parkrsquos borders The area
is also home to carnivores such as Asian wild
dogs and tigers as well as numerous reptiles and
amphibians including king cobras pythons and
monitor lizards Nearly 400 species of bird can
be found at Khao Yai Other attractions in this
trekkersrsquo paradise include several large waterfalls
The 20 metre Haew Suwat waterfall with is
deep pool was made famous by the film lsquoThe
Beachrsquo
Day 1The road leading to the gates of Khao Yai National Park is notable for its
numerous Italian influenced restaurants hotels and guesthouses A paradise
for pizza and pasta lovers there is even a small Italian-style village with ice-
cream parlours eateries and Italian themed guesthouses Almost immediately
after entering the park we were greeted by the sight of black giant squirrels
and pig tailed macaques clamouring in the canopy all around us Our first stop
was the visitor centre where we picked up a map of the park and other useful
information Outside were several sambar deer picking through restaurant
leftovers The rest of the day was spent exploring spots in which to set up
our cameras the following day We also made the first of several walks to the
observation tower adjacent to Nong Pak Chee reservoir As well as fabulous
views of the park the tower overlooks a saltlick where all manner of wildlife
gathers to suck up vital minerals and nutrients
Day 2Khao Yai is extremely popular with visitors and we could only
book lodging within its borders for the last two days of our trip
This meant an early start so we could get into the park in time to
shoot the sunrise We were the first visitors of the day and drove
to one of the places we had explored the day before We came
across what we thought was one of the many sambar or barking
deer that roam freely around the park We decided to take a
closer look only to find we had stumbled across an Asiatic black
bear half hidden in the morning mist Having spotted us after a
few minutes the handsome creature ambled off into the forest
The dawn had barely broken and our day was already a triumph
The rest of our time was spent following gibbons various varieties
deer and innumerable brightly coloured birds
Day 3Today we were fortunate to be allowed to move
ourselves and our equipment into government-
owned lodgings within the park Our first
mission was to set our cameras up at a place
where we had heard the heavy distinctive
rushing of wings and calls of hornbills (described
by some as sounding like the puffing of a steam
locomotive) the day before
We had expected a long wait but already had
our first shots of this impressive bird in the
can before breakfast We spent many hours
photographing hornbills macaque and other
wildlife
We even stumbled upon a pack of Asian wild
dogs gathered around the carcass of a recently
killed deer We thought our wildlife encounters
for the day were over as we sat down to enjoy
dinner only to be disturbed by scuffling sounds
behind our bungalow The noise was being
made by a pair of porcupines who were not in
the least afraid of us and actually attempted to
chase us away
Day 4The day was spent exploring the trails of Khao Yai and discovering among other wildlife a magnificent
crested serpent eagle As the afternoon drew to a close we decided to take one last trip to the watchtower
From here we witnessed the gathering of a large flock of hornbills We showed some of our footage to a
friendly ranger He was particularly interested in our bear shots We were thrilled to be told that it was very
rare to see a black bear even more so when we were informed that none of the rangers had seen one for
a number of months I decided to leave the tower to find a good place to photograph the sunset Within
a matter of minutes I heard someone scream ldquoBEARrdquo and was back up the stairs in seconds There below
us taking an evening stroll through the grass just metres from where we were perched was another much
younger black bear
Our trip could not have ended better Needless
to say Thai Guru thoroughly recommends a visit
to Khao Yai National Park As already mentioned
the park is popular with both local and foreign
tourists especially on holidays and weekends
We advise that you try to visit during the week
when the park is quieter and the chance of
seeing the amazing wildlife is greater
The park has two camping grounds as well as a
few bungalows that can be booked through the
Department of National Parks Wildlife and Plant
Conservation These need to be booked well
in advance However there are also plenty of
guesthouses and hotels are to be found along
the parkrsquos boundaries
Festival of LanternsThe enchanting atmosphere of Loi Krathong
The weather is cooling down and itrsquos
that time of year again when we all
take to the waterways of Thailand and
give praise to Khongkha the water
Goddess who took care of abundant
rainfall in the past raining season
Donrsquot miss this joyful celebration with
its enchanting atmosphere that brings
one and all in Thailand together
much like Songkran
Thailandrsquos lsquoFestival of Lightsrsquo is celebrated
throughout the kingdom on the night of the
November full moon The end of the rainy
season heralds the coolest months in the
countryrsquos calendar when the river waters are
also supposed to be at their highest
Superstition replaces religion on this night as
thousands flock to the banks of the swollen
rivers and canals to release khratongs floating
tributes to the river spirits and Mother Water ndash
Phra Mae Khongkha In recent years the festival
has been revived in the ancient temples of
Thailandrsquos former capital Sukhothai
Visitors assemble in the Sukhothai Historical
Park with their banana leaf khratongs decorated
with flowers incense sticks and candles to take
part in a ceremony that dates back centuries
Sometimes a coin is added as gift to the spirits
The pretty rafts are then released onto the lake
with a wish
It was once believed that Loi Khratong
was actually created in Sukhothai by Nang
Nopphamas a lady of the court and consort
of the king In fact the celebration was adapted
by Thai Buddhists from a Brahmanical festival
adapted to honour Buddha
The khratong is meant to be a light on the
darkness of the water for Buddha A personrsquos
sins and negative thoughts are also believed to
float away with the colourful little raft Try adding
a lock of your hair for extra luck
Nearly 20 of the Northern provinces will be
showing off a dazzling selection of floats in the
Royal Khratongs Procession as well as holding a
Miss Nopphamat beauty contest
A competition is held for the most beautifully
designed khratong as well as plenty of other
Sukhothai arts and cultural performances
The Light-and-Sound Presentation at Wat
Mahathat explains the history and origins of
Sukhothai and Loi Khratong through dance
music prayer combat displays light effects and
fireworks No Loi Khratong would be complete
without fireworks and thankfully the Thais are
not shy when it comes to blowing things up in
the sky
Tra Kuan pond is the place to be for the floating
of the Royal Khratongs followed by more
firmament-filling pyrotechnics Wat Chana
Songkram is the venue for the Mahachat
sermon Khon Marked Dance and a Thai
classical music performance
Thai Guru decided to travel from Chiang Mai
to Sukhotai for this yearrsquos festivities Although
the heavens decided to open for most of the
celebrations on the final day the rain could not
dampen the celebrations and the spectacle was
jaw dropping
The only thing that was missing due to the rain
was a sky filled with khom loi the sky lanterns
usually released into the firmament in their
hundreds
Although the festivities officially last for the best
part of a week it is the last three days that are
the busiest
Visitors can join in with a range of activities
including fruit carving or just wander around the
historic park listening to live traditional music
watching Thai martial arts or join the parade
of dancers musicians and beauty contestants
all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured
costumes
There are numerous places to stay for the
duration of the festival but it is advisable to
book ahead if you can because this is a very
popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north
from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai
Chiang Mai Temples
A visit to a temple in Thailand is
unavoidable They are everywhere
We at Thai Guru are well aware that
because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can
quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang
Mai With this in mind (and because
the city is overflowing with hundreds
of them) we have chosen a few of
our favourites we hope are slightly
alternative to the ones on the usual
tourist itinerary
Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to
the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its
latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of
the skills of the local silversmiths Like many
of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was
established several centuries ago The ubosoth
or ordination hall is an intricately designed
silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in
the sunlight
The area around Wua Lai has been the home to
silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past
couple of centuries who are famed throughout
the kingdom for creating detailed embossed
relief patterns on the objects they create
something that is immediately evident and
celebrated at Wat Srisuphan
The larger more traditionally decorated red blue
and gold prayer hall also contains impressive
silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos
life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft
museum
Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the
artisans at work and the temple has its own
silver-working school where apprentices are
trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive
Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved
in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-
robed residents of the temple improve their
linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also
available
Unfortunately women are not allowed to
enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this
is explained on a sign outside the wording of
which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in
the monastic boundary many precious things
incantations amulets and other holy objects
were buried over 500 years ago Entering
inside this area may deteriorated the place or
otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most
of the interior can be appreciated from the
doorway
Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous
for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged
Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai
Due to its being less well advertised than its
neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham
is often a more peaceful temple from which
to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang
Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist
Lent when the place was alive with worshippers
Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once
the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic
giants Following a visit from the Buddha the
giants decided to mend their ways stop eating
their neighbours and convert to Buddhism
For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and
offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the
templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally
constructed towards the end of the 7th century
Although the temple fell into disrepair over the
centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered
a chamber containing a number of Buddha
images The discovery led to the revitalisation of
this mountain top temple
The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are
guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured
sword-wielding warriors The courtyard
overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and
bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of
food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the
road leading to the temple
Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-
west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek
and easily accessible by car or taxi
Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai
was being established the name translates
as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably
because it was used to cast Buddha images for
its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The
entrance to the temple is through a small but
intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos
assembly hall is notable because it is one of the
only viharns of its type constructed solely from
teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a
superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock
astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference
to the king who once used the wooden hall as
his palace The gilded image features mythical
creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured
glass
The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite
from the busy road outside Wooden boxes
contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm
leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a
large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors
Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks
like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a
small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less
imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo
temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru
recommends a quick visit if you are passing
Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous
temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi
Luang
The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the
largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it
was damaged either by an earthquake in the
16th century or cannon fire from the guns
of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese
in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO
funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps
up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga
serpents and a group of five elephants (only the
one without a trunk or ears partially survived
whatever caused the structure to collapse the
others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi
was also once home to one of the most revered
religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald
Buddha Although the original now resides in
Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and
once again looks out over the city from a niche
on the east side of the structure
Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and
now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly
hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance
is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a
great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar
housed in a building at the base of the tree
Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although
one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few
alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed
Mae Hong Son
It is said that Mae Hong Son is the
most authentic and mountainous
province of Thailand For Thai Guru a
good reason to explore this province
side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai
province
Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of
Thailand The northern most part of this
province is at a distance of 924 km from
Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province
in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son
borders Myanmar On the south and east side it
borders Tak and Chiang Mai province
We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast
on the 108 road The scenery is woody and
mountainous so far so good And as we leave
the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek
for wildlife and beautiful landscapes
The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage
is that our average speed drops to less than
15 km hour No worries when you do trips
like these the clock stops and the only thing
on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning
landscapes that unfold before your eyes
The main road is well paved But as you might
understand we regularly go off road
This is the best way to come into contact with
locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo
While we are standing somewhere taking in the
beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a
falcon calling
A short walk through the forrest the sound
stops and we decide to sit down for some
water and well earned rest After a short while I
hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo
There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters
above us a white rumped falcon
Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras
it stays there and even when we start making
noises because we want to film it in flight it
takes itrsquos time
Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of
Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They
cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more
Of course they also have their own cattle And
walking through one of their small villages they
are very friendly and hospitable
It has to be said it is never smart to enter
a community or people with your camera
as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask
the people if they mind if you taking their
photograph or want to film their daily life
In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to
the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean
and offers a nice variety food on the terrace
with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city
where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists
Really nice to stroll down the walking street and
find food or a nice souvenir People are very
friendly as usual
From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae
Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an
average speed of 15 km hour
Halfway we jump out of the car into a river
Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to
keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn
but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around
without it
Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome
us and are gladly willing to allow us to make
photographs and film them
In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early
morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises
For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum
After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark
Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon
So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team
ChinatownBangkok
Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese
people in big cities around the world
Manhattan San Francisco Manilla
Paris and Boston have them and
more keep being officially recognised
in their role as historical and touristic
center every year Even places like
Dubai and Las Vegas have modern
day versions of this phenomenon
As soon as you pass under one of the famous
large red entrance arches you arrive in a
complete different world
A world that is paradise for photographers
A couple of the photographers in the Thai
Guru team decided to spend some time in the
Bangkok version of Chinatown
If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for
some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at
Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim
Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat
SLEEPY NANA dream destination
Relatively unknown and uncrowded
Nan has it all This gem of a province
hides an abundance of cultural and
natural attractions ancient temples
pristine forests rivers mountain
peaks but what strikes you most is
its omnipresent feel of an untroubled
authentic way of life
Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings
you this genuine feel in pictures and footage
For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of
Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant
nature and the nature of its people show
Thailand - as is often said before hordes of
tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas
it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan
managed to escape this proces but will it stay
that way Nan shares most of its border with
neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening
of the border and beyond towards China it is to
be expected that it will ultimately become an
important gateway for trade and tourism
Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town
and the countryside will enchant you and the natural
cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy
for at least a couple of days The town along the banks
of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base
to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night
life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous
temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue
influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The
great surroundings can best be explored by renting a
motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo
Much of the province is devoted to farming
Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still
being practised in areas of the province resulting
in a landscape where forests and fields alternate
Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside
of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature
peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich
natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the
province sees far fewer visitors than popular
neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You
can go white water rafting on the Wa River
along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim
National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay
overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes
Touring Nan
Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern
lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities
of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old
salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via
endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges
and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with
orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers
Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready
to be harvested broke through the green hills
giving a golden hue to the landscape
We encountered friendly villagers who worked
their way through the dry fields - meanwhile
singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to
supplement their meager incomes Despite their
hardship they showed us their heartwarming
hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes
with us
This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi
Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and
sparsely populated that we only passed two
cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos
difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand
nowadays
PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river
The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness
begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over
the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above
the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is
broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices
Then the carved image of a Naga becomes
visible above the water line followed by more
than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted
in red and gold colorshellip
During the year the remote provincial town
of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a
year for the annual spectacle of traditional
Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos
water artery The finals are held over two
days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos
banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite
team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in
Thailand yet relatively unknown
The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long
simple shelters where the massive dragon boats
are housed during the year Just once a year
they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos
most important sporting and social event The
event takes place right after the end of the
rainy season around early November when
water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at
their highest The colorful races are part of the
festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the
last day of Buddhist Lent in October
The narrow boats are made from massive
hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters
in length depending how many paddlers they
are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily
distinguishable by their use of bright colors and
mythical designs in the traditional local style
The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of
each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting
only the good ones to participate in their race
How to get there
Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is
connected by plane and by bus to the rest of
the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan
Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice
each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to
Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to
Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on
the service
Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan
(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8
hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)
The contestants of the races are classified into
three categories mdashlarge medium and small
boats Depending on their length each boat can
accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers
sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the
same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously
against the current to the frantic beating of a
drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern
The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying
their attempt to reach the finish line first and
the paddles churning up the river creates a
spectacular atmosphere
Son
g K
ran
in
Ch
ian
g M
ai
Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of
the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down
in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The
days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing
steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the
hot months of April and May The stifling mid-
day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out
unless necessary The buzz around town about
some festival called Song Kran is starting to
increase an underlying excitement rising
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
contact us
infothaigurumagazinecom
All videos in this magazine are
available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
The vet a 28 year old woman going by the
nickname of lsquoImrsquo (a short vowel sounding i as
in it) has been working at the elephant clinic
since she graduated 4 years previously from the
Faculty of Veterinary Medicine at Chiang Mai
University after completing a 6 year veterinary
degree Her love of these majestic creatures
was the focus of her dissertation Working daily
from 9 to 5 keeps her pretty busy with the park
employing her on a full-time basis
The second elephant to be seen by Im was
housed in an older treatment area nearby This
time the problem was a cut on the bottom of its
foot caused by walking on some glass
With the elephants mahout on-hand to assist
Im first had to check to see if there was any
remaining glass in the wound This done the next
stage was cleaning the injury which was done
using a giant foot bath
The elephantrsquos mahout guided the elephant into
position so that her front feet would be standing
in the disinfecting solution But rather than just
walking the animal through the solution the
elephant had to stand patiently with its feet in the
foot bath for a whole hour
During the treatment the elephantrsquos tether was lying unsecured on the floor but she stood calmly allowing
the vet to do her task even being in some discomfort It shows how trusting these animals can be with
humans The female elephant must have known that Im was there to help her
During an average day Im will treat 4 or 5 elephants usually foot injuries and other such problems as we
witnessed that morning cleaning and disinfecting wounds to prevent infection When she does have
a quieter day Imrsquos time is taken up with the general wellbeing of the elephants with nail trimming and
administrating drugs However her work isnrsquot limited to the park elephants
On occasion elephants outside the park require help so they can contact Im who will go out to the
surrounding area and provide a mobile clinic This service is provided free of charge courtesy of the park and
is a much appreciated service to the elephants who do not have a fixed home and whose mahouts cannot
otherwise afford treatment for their animals
With the sun approaching the meridian we said our farewells and headed back to town with the peace of
mind knowing that the magnificent elephants would be in the capable hands of Im the vet who cares and
treats them day to day
International Training Massage School
On a peaceful street a short walk from Chiang
Mairsquos old city is the International Training Massage
School An airy modern building in the traditional
Lanna style welcomes beginners seeking to learn
the basics of traditional Thai massage as well as
seasoned massage professionals looking to expand
their skills
Thai Guru is well used to being on the receiving
end of a skilful pair of hands of belonging to an
experienced masseuse so were pleased to be
invited to join the students at ITM to learn a bit more
about the training that is required to perform one of
the best things about living in Thailand
Chiang Mai is a mecca for those wishing to
spend a few days a few weeks or a few months
learning the art of Nuad Boran or lsquoancient
Thai Massagersquo Massage is serious business
in this part of the world and schools like ITM
tech everything from introduction courses
to advanced teacher training There are also
some quite specific classes on offer including
pregnancy massage hot stone healing massage
and infant massage
The ITM students turn up to begin their studies
early in the morning Shoes and sandals are left
outside the building next to a decorative koi
carp pond comfortable loose fitting pyjamas
are donned feet are washed and it is off to one
of the yoga studios to settle down and the first
blessing of the day Prayers are offered up by
students and teachers to Dr Shivago Komarpaj
Buddharsquos physician and the father of Thai
massage
Traditional Thai massage is practiced without
oils unguents or lotions and both giver and
receiver keep their clothes on The therapy
involves the compression rocking stretching
and manipulation of the joints and muscles
rather than the rubbing and stroking often
employed in other forms of massage
Once the prayers and blessings have been given up it is time for the students to get themselves ready for
the dayrsquos exertions by stretching To the relaxing sounds of flute music a teacher guides the trainees through
a set of yoga moves On the morning Thai Guru visited there were fifteen students being gently told to
assume the lsquosupermanrsquo and kick their legs into the air for the lsquoreverse bicyclersquo
We were informed that the combination of rhythmic stretches traditionally used by yogis and hermits (who
probably better than anyone know the importance of a good stretch) as well as warming up the studentsrsquo
bodies help the novices to understand better what they will be doing to the bodies of those they are about
to massage
A short break for coffee and bananas in a quiet courtyard watched over by a shrine to Dr Shivago and itrsquos
back to the classroom for a demonstration of the significance of some basic Nuad Boran moves The
students gather round books with detailed diagrams open on their laps to study how to perfect moves like
lsquothe flamingorsquo and lsquothe last tangorsquo among others
The founder of the school Mr Chongkol Setthakorn takes over the class for
the serious task of making sure the students have been paying attention and
arenrsquot in the process of giving each other hernias A quick prayer is said and
the real business of bending stretching and joint crunching begins
The students we met had been training for between three and four weeks
However courses at ITM and indeed at schools across Chiang Mai can be
tailored to fit the requirements of anyone who wishes to get involved in an
activity that gives enormous pleasure to both the giver and receiver - as Mr
Settakorn astutely explains ldquoThai Massage is like a thousand gentle waves
washing over the bodyrdquo
ITM ndash International Training Massage School
599 Chang Puak Road
Soi 4 Chor
Sriphum
Muang Chiang Mai
50200 THAILAND
Phone +66-5321-8632
Mobile +66-83-763-1002
Email itmitmthaimassagecom
wwwitmthaimassagecom
Krabi dream destination
After a couple of weeks traveling through
Thailand many are looking for the
perfect location to spend their last days
of their vancation Perfection doesnrsquot
exist but dream destination Krabi is gets
close
Located in the south west of Thailand
Krabi is also thanks to its airport an easy
destination to reach
You will notice the friendly atmosphere in this
area of Thailand right away
A couple of must sees like the Emerald Pond
and the Hot Waterfall are definitely worth your
visit Imagine relaxing in a the hot waterfall
under the exotic trees
And of course an island tour is a must when
you are in Krabi
By boat you can visit Por da Koh Hong Koh Kai
and the famous Pranang cave
Khao Yai National Park
Since establishing Thai Guru Magazine
we have been eager to take our
cameras to Khao Yai National Park
Having visited the area previously
I had already enjoyed the beauty
of Khao Yai and the abundance of
wildlife to be seen there and was keen
to share it with the rest of the team
Finally at the end of January we
jumped in the car for the long drive
south from
Chiang Mai
Three hours northeast of Bangkok Khao Yai
is the oldest and third largest national park
in Thailand Grasslands evergreen forests
monsoon forests and rain forests cover more
than 2000 square kilometres of this Unesco
World Heritage site
The park is teeming with wildlife Mammals
including elephant gibbon barking deer and
guar live within the parkrsquos borders The area
is also home to carnivores such as Asian wild
dogs and tigers as well as numerous reptiles and
amphibians including king cobras pythons and
monitor lizards Nearly 400 species of bird can
be found at Khao Yai Other attractions in this
trekkersrsquo paradise include several large waterfalls
The 20 metre Haew Suwat waterfall with is
deep pool was made famous by the film lsquoThe
Beachrsquo
Day 1The road leading to the gates of Khao Yai National Park is notable for its
numerous Italian influenced restaurants hotels and guesthouses A paradise
for pizza and pasta lovers there is even a small Italian-style village with ice-
cream parlours eateries and Italian themed guesthouses Almost immediately
after entering the park we were greeted by the sight of black giant squirrels
and pig tailed macaques clamouring in the canopy all around us Our first stop
was the visitor centre where we picked up a map of the park and other useful
information Outside were several sambar deer picking through restaurant
leftovers The rest of the day was spent exploring spots in which to set up
our cameras the following day We also made the first of several walks to the
observation tower adjacent to Nong Pak Chee reservoir As well as fabulous
views of the park the tower overlooks a saltlick where all manner of wildlife
gathers to suck up vital minerals and nutrients
Day 2Khao Yai is extremely popular with visitors and we could only
book lodging within its borders for the last two days of our trip
This meant an early start so we could get into the park in time to
shoot the sunrise We were the first visitors of the day and drove
to one of the places we had explored the day before We came
across what we thought was one of the many sambar or barking
deer that roam freely around the park We decided to take a
closer look only to find we had stumbled across an Asiatic black
bear half hidden in the morning mist Having spotted us after a
few minutes the handsome creature ambled off into the forest
The dawn had barely broken and our day was already a triumph
The rest of our time was spent following gibbons various varieties
deer and innumerable brightly coloured birds
Day 3Today we were fortunate to be allowed to move
ourselves and our equipment into government-
owned lodgings within the park Our first
mission was to set our cameras up at a place
where we had heard the heavy distinctive
rushing of wings and calls of hornbills (described
by some as sounding like the puffing of a steam
locomotive) the day before
We had expected a long wait but already had
our first shots of this impressive bird in the
can before breakfast We spent many hours
photographing hornbills macaque and other
wildlife
We even stumbled upon a pack of Asian wild
dogs gathered around the carcass of a recently
killed deer We thought our wildlife encounters
for the day were over as we sat down to enjoy
dinner only to be disturbed by scuffling sounds
behind our bungalow The noise was being
made by a pair of porcupines who were not in
the least afraid of us and actually attempted to
chase us away
Day 4The day was spent exploring the trails of Khao Yai and discovering among other wildlife a magnificent
crested serpent eagle As the afternoon drew to a close we decided to take one last trip to the watchtower
From here we witnessed the gathering of a large flock of hornbills We showed some of our footage to a
friendly ranger He was particularly interested in our bear shots We were thrilled to be told that it was very
rare to see a black bear even more so when we were informed that none of the rangers had seen one for
a number of months I decided to leave the tower to find a good place to photograph the sunset Within
a matter of minutes I heard someone scream ldquoBEARrdquo and was back up the stairs in seconds There below
us taking an evening stroll through the grass just metres from where we were perched was another much
younger black bear
Our trip could not have ended better Needless
to say Thai Guru thoroughly recommends a visit
to Khao Yai National Park As already mentioned
the park is popular with both local and foreign
tourists especially on holidays and weekends
We advise that you try to visit during the week
when the park is quieter and the chance of
seeing the amazing wildlife is greater
The park has two camping grounds as well as a
few bungalows that can be booked through the
Department of National Parks Wildlife and Plant
Conservation These need to be booked well
in advance However there are also plenty of
guesthouses and hotels are to be found along
the parkrsquos boundaries
Festival of LanternsThe enchanting atmosphere of Loi Krathong
The weather is cooling down and itrsquos
that time of year again when we all
take to the waterways of Thailand and
give praise to Khongkha the water
Goddess who took care of abundant
rainfall in the past raining season
Donrsquot miss this joyful celebration with
its enchanting atmosphere that brings
one and all in Thailand together
much like Songkran
Thailandrsquos lsquoFestival of Lightsrsquo is celebrated
throughout the kingdom on the night of the
November full moon The end of the rainy
season heralds the coolest months in the
countryrsquos calendar when the river waters are
also supposed to be at their highest
Superstition replaces religion on this night as
thousands flock to the banks of the swollen
rivers and canals to release khratongs floating
tributes to the river spirits and Mother Water ndash
Phra Mae Khongkha In recent years the festival
has been revived in the ancient temples of
Thailandrsquos former capital Sukhothai
Visitors assemble in the Sukhothai Historical
Park with their banana leaf khratongs decorated
with flowers incense sticks and candles to take
part in a ceremony that dates back centuries
Sometimes a coin is added as gift to the spirits
The pretty rafts are then released onto the lake
with a wish
It was once believed that Loi Khratong
was actually created in Sukhothai by Nang
Nopphamas a lady of the court and consort
of the king In fact the celebration was adapted
by Thai Buddhists from a Brahmanical festival
adapted to honour Buddha
The khratong is meant to be a light on the
darkness of the water for Buddha A personrsquos
sins and negative thoughts are also believed to
float away with the colourful little raft Try adding
a lock of your hair for extra luck
Nearly 20 of the Northern provinces will be
showing off a dazzling selection of floats in the
Royal Khratongs Procession as well as holding a
Miss Nopphamat beauty contest
A competition is held for the most beautifully
designed khratong as well as plenty of other
Sukhothai arts and cultural performances
The Light-and-Sound Presentation at Wat
Mahathat explains the history and origins of
Sukhothai and Loi Khratong through dance
music prayer combat displays light effects and
fireworks No Loi Khratong would be complete
without fireworks and thankfully the Thais are
not shy when it comes to blowing things up in
the sky
Tra Kuan pond is the place to be for the floating
of the Royal Khratongs followed by more
firmament-filling pyrotechnics Wat Chana
Songkram is the venue for the Mahachat
sermon Khon Marked Dance and a Thai
classical music performance
Thai Guru decided to travel from Chiang Mai
to Sukhotai for this yearrsquos festivities Although
the heavens decided to open for most of the
celebrations on the final day the rain could not
dampen the celebrations and the spectacle was
jaw dropping
The only thing that was missing due to the rain
was a sky filled with khom loi the sky lanterns
usually released into the firmament in their
hundreds
Although the festivities officially last for the best
part of a week it is the last three days that are
the busiest
Visitors can join in with a range of activities
including fruit carving or just wander around the
historic park listening to live traditional music
watching Thai martial arts or join the parade
of dancers musicians and beauty contestants
all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured
costumes
There are numerous places to stay for the
duration of the festival but it is advisable to
book ahead if you can because this is a very
popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north
from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai
Chiang Mai Temples
A visit to a temple in Thailand is
unavoidable They are everywhere
We at Thai Guru are well aware that
because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can
quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang
Mai With this in mind (and because
the city is overflowing with hundreds
of them) we have chosen a few of
our favourites we hope are slightly
alternative to the ones on the usual
tourist itinerary
Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to
the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its
latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of
the skills of the local silversmiths Like many
of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was
established several centuries ago The ubosoth
or ordination hall is an intricately designed
silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in
the sunlight
The area around Wua Lai has been the home to
silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past
couple of centuries who are famed throughout
the kingdom for creating detailed embossed
relief patterns on the objects they create
something that is immediately evident and
celebrated at Wat Srisuphan
The larger more traditionally decorated red blue
and gold prayer hall also contains impressive
silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos
life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft
museum
Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the
artisans at work and the temple has its own
silver-working school where apprentices are
trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive
Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved
in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-
robed residents of the temple improve their
linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also
available
Unfortunately women are not allowed to
enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this
is explained on a sign outside the wording of
which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in
the monastic boundary many precious things
incantations amulets and other holy objects
were buried over 500 years ago Entering
inside this area may deteriorated the place or
otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most
of the interior can be appreciated from the
doorway
Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous
for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged
Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai
Due to its being less well advertised than its
neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham
is often a more peaceful temple from which
to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang
Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist
Lent when the place was alive with worshippers
Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once
the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic
giants Following a visit from the Buddha the
giants decided to mend their ways stop eating
their neighbours and convert to Buddhism
For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and
offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the
templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally
constructed towards the end of the 7th century
Although the temple fell into disrepair over the
centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered
a chamber containing a number of Buddha
images The discovery led to the revitalisation of
this mountain top temple
The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are
guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured
sword-wielding warriors The courtyard
overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and
bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of
food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the
road leading to the temple
Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-
west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek
and easily accessible by car or taxi
Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai
was being established the name translates
as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably
because it was used to cast Buddha images for
its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The
entrance to the temple is through a small but
intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos
assembly hall is notable because it is one of the
only viharns of its type constructed solely from
teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a
superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock
astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference
to the king who once used the wooden hall as
his palace The gilded image features mythical
creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured
glass
The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite
from the busy road outside Wooden boxes
contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm
leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a
large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors
Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks
like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a
small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less
imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo
temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru
recommends a quick visit if you are passing
Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous
temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi
Luang
The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the
largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it
was damaged either by an earthquake in the
16th century or cannon fire from the guns
of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese
in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO
funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps
up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga
serpents and a group of five elephants (only the
one without a trunk or ears partially survived
whatever caused the structure to collapse the
others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi
was also once home to one of the most revered
religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald
Buddha Although the original now resides in
Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and
once again looks out over the city from a niche
on the east side of the structure
Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and
now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly
hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance
is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a
great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar
housed in a building at the base of the tree
Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although
one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few
alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed
Mae Hong Son
It is said that Mae Hong Son is the
most authentic and mountainous
province of Thailand For Thai Guru a
good reason to explore this province
side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai
province
Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of
Thailand The northern most part of this
province is at a distance of 924 km from
Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province
in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son
borders Myanmar On the south and east side it
borders Tak and Chiang Mai province
We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast
on the 108 road The scenery is woody and
mountainous so far so good And as we leave
the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek
for wildlife and beautiful landscapes
The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage
is that our average speed drops to less than
15 km hour No worries when you do trips
like these the clock stops and the only thing
on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning
landscapes that unfold before your eyes
The main road is well paved But as you might
understand we regularly go off road
This is the best way to come into contact with
locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo
While we are standing somewhere taking in the
beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a
falcon calling
A short walk through the forrest the sound
stops and we decide to sit down for some
water and well earned rest After a short while I
hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo
There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters
above us a white rumped falcon
Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras
it stays there and even when we start making
noises because we want to film it in flight it
takes itrsquos time
Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of
Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They
cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more
Of course they also have their own cattle And
walking through one of their small villages they
are very friendly and hospitable
It has to be said it is never smart to enter
a community or people with your camera
as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask
the people if they mind if you taking their
photograph or want to film their daily life
In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to
the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean
and offers a nice variety food on the terrace
with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city
where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists
Really nice to stroll down the walking street and
find food or a nice souvenir People are very
friendly as usual
From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae
Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an
average speed of 15 km hour
Halfway we jump out of the car into a river
Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to
keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn
but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around
without it
Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome
us and are gladly willing to allow us to make
photographs and film them
In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early
morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises
For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum
After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark
Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon
So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team
ChinatownBangkok
Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese
people in big cities around the world
Manhattan San Francisco Manilla
Paris and Boston have them and
more keep being officially recognised
in their role as historical and touristic
center every year Even places like
Dubai and Las Vegas have modern
day versions of this phenomenon
As soon as you pass under one of the famous
large red entrance arches you arrive in a
complete different world
A world that is paradise for photographers
A couple of the photographers in the Thai
Guru team decided to spend some time in the
Bangkok version of Chinatown
If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for
some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at
Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim
Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat
SLEEPY NANA dream destination
Relatively unknown and uncrowded
Nan has it all This gem of a province
hides an abundance of cultural and
natural attractions ancient temples
pristine forests rivers mountain
peaks but what strikes you most is
its omnipresent feel of an untroubled
authentic way of life
Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings
you this genuine feel in pictures and footage
For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of
Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant
nature and the nature of its people show
Thailand - as is often said before hordes of
tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas
it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan
managed to escape this proces but will it stay
that way Nan shares most of its border with
neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening
of the border and beyond towards China it is to
be expected that it will ultimately become an
important gateway for trade and tourism
Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town
and the countryside will enchant you and the natural
cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy
for at least a couple of days The town along the banks
of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base
to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night
life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous
temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue
influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The
great surroundings can best be explored by renting a
motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo
Much of the province is devoted to farming
Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still
being practised in areas of the province resulting
in a landscape where forests and fields alternate
Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside
of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature
peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich
natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the
province sees far fewer visitors than popular
neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You
can go white water rafting on the Wa River
along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim
National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay
overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes
Touring Nan
Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern
lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities
of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old
salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via
endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges
and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with
orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers
Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready
to be harvested broke through the green hills
giving a golden hue to the landscape
We encountered friendly villagers who worked
their way through the dry fields - meanwhile
singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to
supplement their meager incomes Despite their
hardship they showed us their heartwarming
hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes
with us
This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi
Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and
sparsely populated that we only passed two
cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos
difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand
nowadays
PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river
The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness
begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over
the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above
the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is
broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices
Then the carved image of a Naga becomes
visible above the water line followed by more
than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted
in red and gold colorshellip
During the year the remote provincial town
of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a
year for the annual spectacle of traditional
Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos
water artery The finals are held over two
days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos
banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite
team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in
Thailand yet relatively unknown
The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long
simple shelters where the massive dragon boats
are housed during the year Just once a year
they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos
most important sporting and social event The
event takes place right after the end of the
rainy season around early November when
water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at
their highest The colorful races are part of the
festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the
last day of Buddhist Lent in October
The narrow boats are made from massive
hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters
in length depending how many paddlers they
are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily
distinguishable by their use of bright colors and
mythical designs in the traditional local style
The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of
each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting
only the good ones to participate in their race
How to get there
Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is
connected by plane and by bus to the rest of
the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan
Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice
each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to
Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to
Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on
the service
Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan
(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8
hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)
The contestants of the races are classified into
three categories mdashlarge medium and small
boats Depending on their length each boat can
accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers
sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the
same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously
against the current to the frantic beating of a
drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern
The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying
their attempt to reach the finish line first and
the paddles churning up the river creates a
spectacular atmosphere
Son
g K
ran
in
Ch
ian
g M
ai
Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of
the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down
in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The
days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing
steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the
hot months of April and May The stifling mid-
day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out
unless necessary The buzz around town about
some festival called Song Kran is starting to
increase an underlying excitement rising
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
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infothaigurumagazinecom
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available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
The second elephant to be seen by Im was
housed in an older treatment area nearby This
time the problem was a cut on the bottom of its
foot caused by walking on some glass
With the elephants mahout on-hand to assist
Im first had to check to see if there was any
remaining glass in the wound This done the next
stage was cleaning the injury which was done
using a giant foot bath
The elephantrsquos mahout guided the elephant into
position so that her front feet would be standing
in the disinfecting solution But rather than just
walking the animal through the solution the
elephant had to stand patiently with its feet in the
foot bath for a whole hour
During the treatment the elephantrsquos tether was lying unsecured on the floor but she stood calmly allowing
the vet to do her task even being in some discomfort It shows how trusting these animals can be with
humans The female elephant must have known that Im was there to help her
During an average day Im will treat 4 or 5 elephants usually foot injuries and other such problems as we
witnessed that morning cleaning and disinfecting wounds to prevent infection When she does have
a quieter day Imrsquos time is taken up with the general wellbeing of the elephants with nail trimming and
administrating drugs However her work isnrsquot limited to the park elephants
On occasion elephants outside the park require help so they can contact Im who will go out to the
surrounding area and provide a mobile clinic This service is provided free of charge courtesy of the park and
is a much appreciated service to the elephants who do not have a fixed home and whose mahouts cannot
otherwise afford treatment for their animals
With the sun approaching the meridian we said our farewells and headed back to town with the peace of
mind knowing that the magnificent elephants would be in the capable hands of Im the vet who cares and
treats them day to day
International Training Massage School
On a peaceful street a short walk from Chiang
Mairsquos old city is the International Training Massage
School An airy modern building in the traditional
Lanna style welcomes beginners seeking to learn
the basics of traditional Thai massage as well as
seasoned massage professionals looking to expand
their skills
Thai Guru is well used to being on the receiving
end of a skilful pair of hands of belonging to an
experienced masseuse so were pleased to be
invited to join the students at ITM to learn a bit more
about the training that is required to perform one of
the best things about living in Thailand
Chiang Mai is a mecca for those wishing to
spend a few days a few weeks or a few months
learning the art of Nuad Boran or lsquoancient
Thai Massagersquo Massage is serious business
in this part of the world and schools like ITM
tech everything from introduction courses
to advanced teacher training There are also
some quite specific classes on offer including
pregnancy massage hot stone healing massage
and infant massage
The ITM students turn up to begin their studies
early in the morning Shoes and sandals are left
outside the building next to a decorative koi
carp pond comfortable loose fitting pyjamas
are donned feet are washed and it is off to one
of the yoga studios to settle down and the first
blessing of the day Prayers are offered up by
students and teachers to Dr Shivago Komarpaj
Buddharsquos physician and the father of Thai
massage
Traditional Thai massage is practiced without
oils unguents or lotions and both giver and
receiver keep their clothes on The therapy
involves the compression rocking stretching
and manipulation of the joints and muscles
rather than the rubbing and stroking often
employed in other forms of massage
Once the prayers and blessings have been given up it is time for the students to get themselves ready for
the dayrsquos exertions by stretching To the relaxing sounds of flute music a teacher guides the trainees through
a set of yoga moves On the morning Thai Guru visited there were fifteen students being gently told to
assume the lsquosupermanrsquo and kick their legs into the air for the lsquoreverse bicyclersquo
We were informed that the combination of rhythmic stretches traditionally used by yogis and hermits (who
probably better than anyone know the importance of a good stretch) as well as warming up the studentsrsquo
bodies help the novices to understand better what they will be doing to the bodies of those they are about
to massage
A short break for coffee and bananas in a quiet courtyard watched over by a shrine to Dr Shivago and itrsquos
back to the classroom for a demonstration of the significance of some basic Nuad Boran moves The
students gather round books with detailed diagrams open on their laps to study how to perfect moves like
lsquothe flamingorsquo and lsquothe last tangorsquo among others
The founder of the school Mr Chongkol Setthakorn takes over the class for
the serious task of making sure the students have been paying attention and
arenrsquot in the process of giving each other hernias A quick prayer is said and
the real business of bending stretching and joint crunching begins
The students we met had been training for between three and four weeks
However courses at ITM and indeed at schools across Chiang Mai can be
tailored to fit the requirements of anyone who wishes to get involved in an
activity that gives enormous pleasure to both the giver and receiver - as Mr
Settakorn astutely explains ldquoThai Massage is like a thousand gentle waves
washing over the bodyrdquo
ITM ndash International Training Massage School
599 Chang Puak Road
Soi 4 Chor
Sriphum
Muang Chiang Mai
50200 THAILAND
Phone +66-5321-8632
Mobile +66-83-763-1002
Email itmitmthaimassagecom
wwwitmthaimassagecom
Krabi dream destination
After a couple of weeks traveling through
Thailand many are looking for the
perfect location to spend their last days
of their vancation Perfection doesnrsquot
exist but dream destination Krabi is gets
close
Located in the south west of Thailand
Krabi is also thanks to its airport an easy
destination to reach
You will notice the friendly atmosphere in this
area of Thailand right away
A couple of must sees like the Emerald Pond
and the Hot Waterfall are definitely worth your
visit Imagine relaxing in a the hot waterfall
under the exotic trees
And of course an island tour is a must when
you are in Krabi
By boat you can visit Por da Koh Hong Koh Kai
and the famous Pranang cave
Khao Yai National Park
Since establishing Thai Guru Magazine
we have been eager to take our
cameras to Khao Yai National Park
Having visited the area previously
I had already enjoyed the beauty
of Khao Yai and the abundance of
wildlife to be seen there and was keen
to share it with the rest of the team
Finally at the end of January we
jumped in the car for the long drive
south from
Chiang Mai
Three hours northeast of Bangkok Khao Yai
is the oldest and third largest national park
in Thailand Grasslands evergreen forests
monsoon forests and rain forests cover more
than 2000 square kilometres of this Unesco
World Heritage site
The park is teeming with wildlife Mammals
including elephant gibbon barking deer and
guar live within the parkrsquos borders The area
is also home to carnivores such as Asian wild
dogs and tigers as well as numerous reptiles and
amphibians including king cobras pythons and
monitor lizards Nearly 400 species of bird can
be found at Khao Yai Other attractions in this
trekkersrsquo paradise include several large waterfalls
The 20 metre Haew Suwat waterfall with is
deep pool was made famous by the film lsquoThe
Beachrsquo
Day 1The road leading to the gates of Khao Yai National Park is notable for its
numerous Italian influenced restaurants hotels and guesthouses A paradise
for pizza and pasta lovers there is even a small Italian-style village with ice-
cream parlours eateries and Italian themed guesthouses Almost immediately
after entering the park we were greeted by the sight of black giant squirrels
and pig tailed macaques clamouring in the canopy all around us Our first stop
was the visitor centre where we picked up a map of the park and other useful
information Outside were several sambar deer picking through restaurant
leftovers The rest of the day was spent exploring spots in which to set up
our cameras the following day We also made the first of several walks to the
observation tower adjacent to Nong Pak Chee reservoir As well as fabulous
views of the park the tower overlooks a saltlick where all manner of wildlife
gathers to suck up vital minerals and nutrients
Day 2Khao Yai is extremely popular with visitors and we could only
book lodging within its borders for the last two days of our trip
This meant an early start so we could get into the park in time to
shoot the sunrise We were the first visitors of the day and drove
to one of the places we had explored the day before We came
across what we thought was one of the many sambar or barking
deer that roam freely around the park We decided to take a
closer look only to find we had stumbled across an Asiatic black
bear half hidden in the morning mist Having spotted us after a
few minutes the handsome creature ambled off into the forest
The dawn had barely broken and our day was already a triumph
The rest of our time was spent following gibbons various varieties
deer and innumerable brightly coloured birds
Day 3Today we were fortunate to be allowed to move
ourselves and our equipment into government-
owned lodgings within the park Our first
mission was to set our cameras up at a place
where we had heard the heavy distinctive
rushing of wings and calls of hornbills (described
by some as sounding like the puffing of a steam
locomotive) the day before
We had expected a long wait but already had
our first shots of this impressive bird in the
can before breakfast We spent many hours
photographing hornbills macaque and other
wildlife
We even stumbled upon a pack of Asian wild
dogs gathered around the carcass of a recently
killed deer We thought our wildlife encounters
for the day were over as we sat down to enjoy
dinner only to be disturbed by scuffling sounds
behind our bungalow The noise was being
made by a pair of porcupines who were not in
the least afraid of us and actually attempted to
chase us away
Day 4The day was spent exploring the trails of Khao Yai and discovering among other wildlife a magnificent
crested serpent eagle As the afternoon drew to a close we decided to take one last trip to the watchtower
From here we witnessed the gathering of a large flock of hornbills We showed some of our footage to a
friendly ranger He was particularly interested in our bear shots We were thrilled to be told that it was very
rare to see a black bear even more so when we were informed that none of the rangers had seen one for
a number of months I decided to leave the tower to find a good place to photograph the sunset Within
a matter of minutes I heard someone scream ldquoBEARrdquo and was back up the stairs in seconds There below
us taking an evening stroll through the grass just metres from where we were perched was another much
younger black bear
Our trip could not have ended better Needless
to say Thai Guru thoroughly recommends a visit
to Khao Yai National Park As already mentioned
the park is popular with both local and foreign
tourists especially on holidays and weekends
We advise that you try to visit during the week
when the park is quieter and the chance of
seeing the amazing wildlife is greater
The park has two camping grounds as well as a
few bungalows that can be booked through the
Department of National Parks Wildlife and Plant
Conservation These need to be booked well
in advance However there are also plenty of
guesthouses and hotels are to be found along
the parkrsquos boundaries
Festival of LanternsThe enchanting atmosphere of Loi Krathong
The weather is cooling down and itrsquos
that time of year again when we all
take to the waterways of Thailand and
give praise to Khongkha the water
Goddess who took care of abundant
rainfall in the past raining season
Donrsquot miss this joyful celebration with
its enchanting atmosphere that brings
one and all in Thailand together
much like Songkran
Thailandrsquos lsquoFestival of Lightsrsquo is celebrated
throughout the kingdom on the night of the
November full moon The end of the rainy
season heralds the coolest months in the
countryrsquos calendar when the river waters are
also supposed to be at their highest
Superstition replaces religion on this night as
thousands flock to the banks of the swollen
rivers and canals to release khratongs floating
tributes to the river spirits and Mother Water ndash
Phra Mae Khongkha In recent years the festival
has been revived in the ancient temples of
Thailandrsquos former capital Sukhothai
Visitors assemble in the Sukhothai Historical
Park with their banana leaf khratongs decorated
with flowers incense sticks and candles to take
part in a ceremony that dates back centuries
Sometimes a coin is added as gift to the spirits
The pretty rafts are then released onto the lake
with a wish
It was once believed that Loi Khratong
was actually created in Sukhothai by Nang
Nopphamas a lady of the court and consort
of the king In fact the celebration was adapted
by Thai Buddhists from a Brahmanical festival
adapted to honour Buddha
The khratong is meant to be a light on the
darkness of the water for Buddha A personrsquos
sins and negative thoughts are also believed to
float away with the colourful little raft Try adding
a lock of your hair for extra luck
Nearly 20 of the Northern provinces will be
showing off a dazzling selection of floats in the
Royal Khratongs Procession as well as holding a
Miss Nopphamat beauty contest
A competition is held for the most beautifully
designed khratong as well as plenty of other
Sukhothai arts and cultural performances
The Light-and-Sound Presentation at Wat
Mahathat explains the history and origins of
Sukhothai and Loi Khratong through dance
music prayer combat displays light effects and
fireworks No Loi Khratong would be complete
without fireworks and thankfully the Thais are
not shy when it comes to blowing things up in
the sky
Tra Kuan pond is the place to be for the floating
of the Royal Khratongs followed by more
firmament-filling pyrotechnics Wat Chana
Songkram is the venue for the Mahachat
sermon Khon Marked Dance and a Thai
classical music performance
Thai Guru decided to travel from Chiang Mai
to Sukhotai for this yearrsquos festivities Although
the heavens decided to open for most of the
celebrations on the final day the rain could not
dampen the celebrations and the spectacle was
jaw dropping
The only thing that was missing due to the rain
was a sky filled with khom loi the sky lanterns
usually released into the firmament in their
hundreds
Although the festivities officially last for the best
part of a week it is the last three days that are
the busiest
Visitors can join in with a range of activities
including fruit carving or just wander around the
historic park listening to live traditional music
watching Thai martial arts or join the parade
of dancers musicians and beauty contestants
all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured
costumes
There are numerous places to stay for the
duration of the festival but it is advisable to
book ahead if you can because this is a very
popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north
from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai
Chiang Mai Temples
A visit to a temple in Thailand is
unavoidable They are everywhere
We at Thai Guru are well aware that
because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can
quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang
Mai With this in mind (and because
the city is overflowing with hundreds
of them) we have chosen a few of
our favourites we hope are slightly
alternative to the ones on the usual
tourist itinerary
Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to
the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its
latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of
the skills of the local silversmiths Like many
of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was
established several centuries ago The ubosoth
or ordination hall is an intricately designed
silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in
the sunlight
The area around Wua Lai has been the home to
silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past
couple of centuries who are famed throughout
the kingdom for creating detailed embossed
relief patterns on the objects they create
something that is immediately evident and
celebrated at Wat Srisuphan
The larger more traditionally decorated red blue
and gold prayer hall also contains impressive
silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos
life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft
museum
Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the
artisans at work and the temple has its own
silver-working school where apprentices are
trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive
Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved
in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-
robed residents of the temple improve their
linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also
available
Unfortunately women are not allowed to
enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this
is explained on a sign outside the wording of
which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in
the monastic boundary many precious things
incantations amulets and other holy objects
were buried over 500 years ago Entering
inside this area may deteriorated the place or
otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most
of the interior can be appreciated from the
doorway
Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous
for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged
Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai
Due to its being less well advertised than its
neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham
is often a more peaceful temple from which
to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang
Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist
Lent when the place was alive with worshippers
Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once
the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic
giants Following a visit from the Buddha the
giants decided to mend their ways stop eating
their neighbours and convert to Buddhism
For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and
offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the
templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally
constructed towards the end of the 7th century
Although the temple fell into disrepair over the
centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered
a chamber containing a number of Buddha
images The discovery led to the revitalisation of
this mountain top temple
The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are
guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured
sword-wielding warriors The courtyard
overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and
bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of
food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the
road leading to the temple
Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-
west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek
and easily accessible by car or taxi
Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai
was being established the name translates
as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably
because it was used to cast Buddha images for
its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The
entrance to the temple is through a small but
intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos
assembly hall is notable because it is one of the
only viharns of its type constructed solely from
teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a
superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock
astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference
to the king who once used the wooden hall as
his palace The gilded image features mythical
creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured
glass
The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite
from the busy road outside Wooden boxes
contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm
leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a
large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors
Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks
like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a
small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less
imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo
temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru
recommends a quick visit if you are passing
Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous
temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi
Luang
The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the
largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it
was damaged either by an earthquake in the
16th century or cannon fire from the guns
of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese
in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO
funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps
up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga
serpents and a group of five elephants (only the
one without a trunk or ears partially survived
whatever caused the structure to collapse the
others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi
was also once home to one of the most revered
religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald
Buddha Although the original now resides in
Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and
once again looks out over the city from a niche
on the east side of the structure
Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and
now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly
hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance
is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a
great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar
housed in a building at the base of the tree
Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although
one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few
alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed
Mae Hong Son
It is said that Mae Hong Son is the
most authentic and mountainous
province of Thailand For Thai Guru a
good reason to explore this province
side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai
province
Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of
Thailand The northern most part of this
province is at a distance of 924 km from
Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province
in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son
borders Myanmar On the south and east side it
borders Tak and Chiang Mai province
We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast
on the 108 road The scenery is woody and
mountainous so far so good And as we leave
the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek
for wildlife and beautiful landscapes
The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage
is that our average speed drops to less than
15 km hour No worries when you do trips
like these the clock stops and the only thing
on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning
landscapes that unfold before your eyes
The main road is well paved But as you might
understand we regularly go off road
This is the best way to come into contact with
locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo
While we are standing somewhere taking in the
beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a
falcon calling
A short walk through the forrest the sound
stops and we decide to sit down for some
water and well earned rest After a short while I
hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo
There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters
above us a white rumped falcon
Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras
it stays there and even when we start making
noises because we want to film it in flight it
takes itrsquos time
Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of
Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They
cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more
Of course they also have their own cattle And
walking through one of their small villages they
are very friendly and hospitable
It has to be said it is never smart to enter
a community or people with your camera
as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask
the people if they mind if you taking their
photograph or want to film their daily life
In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to
the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean
and offers a nice variety food on the terrace
with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city
where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists
Really nice to stroll down the walking street and
find food or a nice souvenir People are very
friendly as usual
From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae
Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an
average speed of 15 km hour
Halfway we jump out of the car into a river
Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to
keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn
but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around
without it
Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome
us and are gladly willing to allow us to make
photographs and film them
In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early
morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises
For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum
After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark
Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon
So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team
ChinatownBangkok
Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese
people in big cities around the world
Manhattan San Francisco Manilla
Paris and Boston have them and
more keep being officially recognised
in their role as historical and touristic
center every year Even places like
Dubai and Las Vegas have modern
day versions of this phenomenon
As soon as you pass under one of the famous
large red entrance arches you arrive in a
complete different world
A world that is paradise for photographers
A couple of the photographers in the Thai
Guru team decided to spend some time in the
Bangkok version of Chinatown
If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for
some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at
Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim
Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat
SLEEPY NANA dream destination
Relatively unknown and uncrowded
Nan has it all This gem of a province
hides an abundance of cultural and
natural attractions ancient temples
pristine forests rivers mountain
peaks but what strikes you most is
its omnipresent feel of an untroubled
authentic way of life
Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings
you this genuine feel in pictures and footage
For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of
Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant
nature and the nature of its people show
Thailand - as is often said before hordes of
tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas
it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan
managed to escape this proces but will it stay
that way Nan shares most of its border with
neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening
of the border and beyond towards China it is to
be expected that it will ultimately become an
important gateway for trade and tourism
Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town
and the countryside will enchant you and the natural
cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy
for at least a couple of days The town along the banks
of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base
to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night
life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous
temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue
influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The
great surroundings can best be explored by renting a
motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo
Much of the province is devoted to farming
Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still
being practised in areas of the province resulting
in a landscape where forests and fields alternate
Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside
of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature
peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich
natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the
province sees far fewer visitors than popular
neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You
can go white water rafting on the Wa River
along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim
National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay
overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes
Touring Nan
Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern
lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities
of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old
salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via
endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges
and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with
orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers
Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready
to be harvested broke through the green hills
giving a golden hue to the landscape
We encountered friendly villagers who worked
their way through the dry fields - meanwhile
singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to
supplement their meager incomes Despite their
hardship they showed us their heartwarming
hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes
with us
This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi
Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and
sparsely populated that we only passed two
cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos
difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand
nowadays
PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river
The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness
begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over
the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above
the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is
broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices
Then the carved image of a Naga becomes
visible above the water line followed by more
than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted
in red and gold colorshellip
During the year the remote provincial town
of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a
year for the annual spectacle of traditional
Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos
water artery The finals are held over two
days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos
banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite
team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in
Thailand yet relatively unknown
The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long
simple shelters where the massive dragon boats
are housed during the year Just once a year
they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos
most important sporting and social event The
event takes place right after the end of the
rainy season around early November when
water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at
their highest The colorful races are part of the
festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the
last day of Buddhist Lent in October
The narrow boats are made from massive
hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters
in length depending how many paddlers they
are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily
distinguishable by their use of bright colors and
mythical designs in the traditional local style
The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of
each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting
only the good ones to participate in their race
How to get there
Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is
connected by plane and by bus to the rest of
the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan
Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice
each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to
Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to
Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on
the service
Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan
(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8
hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)
The contestants of the races are classified into
three categories mdashlarge medium and small
boats Depending on their length each boat can
accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers
sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the
same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously
against the current to the frantic beating of a
drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern
The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying
their attempt to reach the finish line first and
the paddles churning up the river creates a
spectacular atmosphere
Son
g K
ran
in
Ch
ian
g M
ai
Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of
the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down
in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The
days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing
steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the
hot months of April and May The stifling mid-
day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out
unless necessary The buzz around town about
some festival called Song Kran is starting to
increase an underlying excitement rising
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
contact us
infothaigurumagazinecom
All videos in this magazine are
available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
During the treatment the elephantrsquos tether was lying unsecured on the floor but she stood calmly allowing
the vet to do her task even being in some discomfort It shows how trusting these animals can be with
humans The female elephant must have known that Im was there to help her
During an average day Im will treat 4 or 5 elephants usually foot injuries and other such problems as we
witnessed that morning cleaning and disinfecting wounds to prevent infection When she does have
a quieter day Imrsquos time is taken up with the general wellbeing of the elephants with nail trimming and
administrating drugs However her work isnrsquot limited to the park elephants
On occasion elephants outside the park require help so they can contact Im who will go out to the
surrounding area and provide a mobile clinic This service is provided free of charge courtesy of the park and
is a much appreciated service to the elephants who do not have a fixed home and whose mahouts cannot
otherwise afford treatment for their animals
With the sun approaching the meridian we said our farewells and headed back to town with the peace of
mind knowing that the magnificent elephants would be in the capable hands of Im the vet who cares and
treats them day to day
International Training Massage School
On a peaceful street a short walk from Chiang
Mairsquos old city is the International Training Massage
School An airy modern building in the traditional
Lanna style welcomes beginners seeking to learn
the basics of traditional Thai massage as well as
seasoned massage professionals looking to expand
their skills
Thai Guru is well used to being on the receiving
end of a skilful pair of hands of belonging to an
experienced masseuse so were pleased to be
invited to join the students at ITM to learn a bit more
about the training that is required to perform one of
the best things about living in Thailand
Chiang Mai is a mecca for those wishing to
spend a few days a few weeks or a few months
learning the art of Nuad Boran or lsquoancient
Thai Massagersquo Massage is serious business
in this part of the world and schools like ITM
tech everything from introduction courses
to advanced teacher training There are also
some quite specific classes on offer including
pregnancy massage hot stone healing massage
and infant massage
The ITM students turn up to begin their studies
early in the morning Shoes and sandals are left
outside the building next to a decorative koi
carp pond comfortable loose fitting pyjamas
are donned feet are washed and it is off to one
of the yoga studios to settle down and the first
blessing of the day Prayers are offered up by
students and teachers to Dr Shivago Komarpaj
Buddharsquos physician and the father of Thai
massage
Traditional Thai massage is practiced without
oils unguents or lotions and both giver and
receiver keep their clothes on The therapy
involves the compression rocking stretching
and manipulation of the joints and muscles
rather than the rubbing and stroking often
employed in other forms of massage
Once the prayers and blessings have been given up it is time for the students to get themselves ready for
the dayrsquos exertions by stretching To the relaxing sounds of flute music a teacher guides the trainees through
a set of yoga moves On the morning Thai Guru visited there were fifteen students being gently told to
assume the lsquosupermanrsquo and kick their legs into the air for the lsquoreverse bicyclersquo
We were informed that the combination of rhythmic stretches traditionally used by yogis and hermits (who
probably better than anyone know the importance of a good stretch) as well as warming up the studentsrsquo
bodies help the novices to understand better what they will be doing to the bodies of those they are about
to massage
A short break for coffee and bananas in a quiet courtyard watched over by a shrine to Dr Shivago and itrsquos
back to the classroom for a demonstration of the significance of some basic Nuad Boran moves The
students gather round books with detailed diagrams open on their laps to study how to perfect moves like
lsquothe flamingorsquo and lsquothe last tangorsquo among others
The founder of the school Mr Chongkol Setthakorn takes over the class for
the serious task of making sure the students have been paying attention and
arenrsquot in the process of giving each other hernias A quick prayer is said and
the real business of bending stretching and joint crunching begins
The students we met had been training for between three and four weeks
However courses at ITM and indeed at schools across Chiang Mai can be
tailored to fit the requirements of anyone who wishes to get involved in an
activity that gives enormous pleasure to both the giver and receiver - as Mr
Settakorn astutely explains ldquoThai Massage is like a thousand gentle waves
washing over the bodyrdquo
ITM ndash International Training Massage School
599 Chang Puak Road
Soi 4 Chor
Sriphum
Muang Chiang Mai
50200 THAILAND
Phone +66-5321-8632
Mobile +66-83-763-1002
Email itmitmthaimassagecom
wwwitmthaimassagecom
Krabi dream destination
After a couple of weeks traveling through
Thailand many are looking for the
perfect location to spend their last days
of their vancation Perfection doesnrsquot
exist but dream destination Krabi is gets
close
Located in the south west of Thailand
Krabi is also thanks to its airport an easy
destination to reach
You will notice the friendly atmosphere in this
area of Thailand right away
A couple of must sees like the Emerald Pond
and the Hot Waterfall are definitely worth your
visit Imagine relaxing in a the hot waterfall
under the exotic trees
And of course an island tour is a must when
you are in Krabi
By boat you can visit Por da Koh Hong Koh Kai
and the famous Pranang cave
Khao Yai National Park
Since establishing Thai Guru Magazine
we have been eager to take our
cameras to Khao Yai National Park
Having visited the area previously
I had already enjoyed the beauty
of Khao Yai and the abundance of
wildlife to be seen there and was keen
to share it with the rest of the team
Finally at the end of January we
jumped in the car for the long drive
south from
Chiang Mai
Three hours northeast of Bangkok Khao Yai
is the oldest and third largest national park
in Thailand Grasslands evergreen forests
monsoon forests and rain forests cover more
than 2000 square kilometres of this Unesco
World Heritage site
The park is teeming with wildlife Mammals
including elephant gibbon barking deer and
guar live within the parkrsquos borders The area
is also home to carnivores such as Asian wild
dogs and tigers as well as numerous reptiles and
amphibians including king cobras pythons and
monitor lizards Nearly 400 species of bird can
be found at Khao Yai Other attractions in this
trekkersrsquo paradise include several large waterfalls
The 20 metre Haew Suwat waterfall with is
deep pool was made famous by the film lsquoThe
Beachrsquo
Day 1The road leading to the gates of Khao Yai National Park is notable for its
numerous Italian influenced restaurants hotels and guesthouses A paradise
for pizza and pasta lovers there is even a small Italian-style village with ice-
cream parlours eateries and Italian themed guesthouses Almost immediately
after entering the park we were greeted by the sight of black giant squirrels
and pig tailed macaques clamouring in the canopy all around us Our first stop
was the visitor centre where we picked up a map of the park and other useful
information Outside were several sambar deer picking through restaurant
leftovers The rest of the day was spent exploring spots in which to set up
our cameras the following day We also made the first of several walks to the
observation tower adjacent to Nong Pak Chee reservoir As well as fabulous
views of the park the tower overlooks a saltlick where all manner of wildlife
gathers to suck up vital minerals and nutrients
Day 2Khao Yai is extremely popular with visitors and we could only
book lodging within its borders for the last two days of our trip
This meant an early start so we could get into the park in time to
shoot the sunrise We were the first visitors of the day and drove
to one of the places we had explored the day before We came
across what we thought was one of the many sambar or barking
deer that roam freely around the park We decided to take a
closer look only to find we had stumbled across an Asiatic black
bear half hidden in the morning mist Having spotted us after a
few minutes the handsome creature ambled off into the forest
The dawn had barely broken and our day was already a triumph
The rest of our time was spent following gibbons various varieties
deer and innumerable brightly coloured birds
Day 3Today we were fortunate to be allowed to move
ourselves and our equipment into government-
owned lodgings within the park Our first
mission was to set our cameras up at a place
where we had heard the heavy distinctive
rushing of wings and calls of hornbills (described
by some as sounding like the puffing of a steam
locomotive) the day before
We had expected a long wait but already had
our first shots of this impressive bird in the
can before breakfast We spent many hours
photographing hornbills macaque and other
wildlife
We even stumbled upon a pack of Asian wild
dogs gathered around the carcass of a recently
killed deer We thought our wildlife encounters
for the day were over as we sat down to enjoy
dinner only to be disturbed by scuffling sounds
behind our bungalow The noise was being
made by a pair of porcupines who were not in
the least afraid of us and actually attempted to
chase us away
Day 4The day was spent exploring the trails of Khao Yai and discovering among other wildlife a magnificent
crested serpent eagle As the afternoon drew to a close we decided to take one last trip to the watchtower
From here we witnessed the gathering of a large flock of hornbills We showed some of our footage to a
friendly ranger He was particularly interested in our bear shots We were thrilled to be told that it was very
rare to see a black bear even more so when we were informed that none of the rangers had seen one for
a number of months I decided to leave the tower to find a good place to photograph the sunset Within
a matter of minutes I heard someone scream ldquoBEARrdquo and was back up the stairs in seconds There below
us taking an evening stroll through the grass just metres from where we were perched was another much
younger black bear
Our trip could not have ended better Needless
to say Thai Guru thoroughly recommends a visit
to Khao Yai National Park As already mentioned
the park is popular with both local and foreign
tourists especially on holidays and weekends
We advise that you try to visit during the week
when the park is quieter and the chance of
seeing the amazing wildlife is greater
The park has two camping grounds as well as a
few bungalows that can be booked through the
Department of National Parks Wildlife and Plant
Conservation These need to be booked well
in advance However there are also plenty of
guesthouses and hotels are to be found along
the parkrsquos boundaries
Festival of LanternsThe enchanting atmosphere of Loi Krathong
The weather is cooling down and itrsquos
that time of year again when we all
take to the waterways of Thailand and
give praise to Khongkha the water
Goddess who took care of abundant
rainfall in the past raining season
Donrsquot miss this joyful celebration with
its enchanting atmosphere that brings
one and all in Thailand together
much like Songkran
Thailandrsquos lsquoFestival of Lightsrsquo is celebrated
throughout the kingdom on the night of the
November full moon The end of the rainy
season heralds the coolest months in the
countryrsquos calendar when the river waters are
also supposed to be at their highest
Superstition replaces religion on this night as
thousands flock to the banks of the swollen
rivers and canals to release khratongs floating
tributes to the river spirits and Mother Water ndash
Phra Mae Khongkha In recent years the festival
has been revived in the ancient temples of
Thailandrsquos former capital Sukhothai
Visitors assemble in the Sukhothai Historical
Park with their banana leaf khratongs decorated
with flowers incense sticks and candles to take
part in a ceremony that dates back centuries
Sometimes a coin is added as gift to the spirits
The pretty rafts are then released onto the lake
with a wish
It was once believed that Loi Khratong
was actually created in Sukhothai by Nang
Nopphamas a lady of the court and consort
of the king In fact the celebration was adapted
by Thai Buddhists from a Brahmanical festival
adapted to honour Buddha
The khratong is meant to be a light on the
darkness of the water for Buddha A personrsquos
sins and negative thoughts are also believed to
float away with the colourful little raft Try adding
a lock of your hair for extra luck
Nearly 20 of the Northern provinces will be
showing off a dazzling selection of floats in the
Royal Khratongs Procession as well as holding a
Miss Nopphamat beauty contest
A competition is held for the most beautifully
designed khratong as well as plenty of other
Sukhothai arts and cultural performances
The Light-and-Sound Presentation at Wat
Mahathat explains the history and origins of
Sukhothai and Loi Khratong through dance
music prayer combat displays light effects and
fireworks No Loi Khratong would be complete
without fireworks and thankfully the Thais are
not shy when it comes to blowing things up in
the sky
Tra Kuan pond is the place to be for the floating
of the Royal Khratongs followed by more
firmament-filling pyrotechnics Wat Chana
Songkram is the venue for the Mahachat
sermon Khon Marked Dance and a Thai
classical music performance
Thai Guru decided to travel from Chiang Mai
to Sukhotai for this yearrsquos festivities Although
the heavens decided to open for most of the
celebrations on the final day the rain could not
dampen the celebrations and the spectacle was
jaw dropping
The only thing that was missing due to the rain
was a sky filled with khom loi the sky lanterns
usually released into the firmament in their
hundreds
Although the festivities officially last for the best
part of a week it is the last three days that are
the busiest
Visitors can join in with a range of activities
including fruit carving or just wander around the
historic park listening to live traditional music
watching Thai martial arts or join the parade
of dancers musicians and beauty contestants
all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured
costumes
There are numerous places to stay for the
duration of the festival but it is advisable to
book ahead if you can because this is a very
popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north
from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai
Chiang Mai Temples
A visit to a temple in Thailand is
unavoidable They are everywhere
We at Thai Guru are well aware that
because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can
quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang
Mai With this in mind (and because
the city is overflowing with hundreds
of them) we have chosen a few of
our favourites we hope are slightly
alternative to the ones on the usual
tourist itinerary
Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to
the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its
latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of
the skills of the local silversmiths Like many
of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was
established several centuries ago The ubosoth
or ordination hall is an intricately designed
silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in
the sunlight
The area around Wua Lai has been the home to
silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past
couple of centuries who are famed throughout
the kingdom for creating detailed embossed
relief patterns on the objects they create
something that is immediately evident and
celebrated at Wat Srisuphan
The larger more traditionally decorated red blue
and gold prayer hall also contains impressive
silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos
life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft
museum
Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the
artisans at work and the temple has its own
silver-working school where apprentices are
trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive
Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved
in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-
robed residents of the temple improve their
linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also
available
Unfortunately women are not allowed to
enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this
is explained on a sign outside the wording of
which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in
the monastic boundary many precious things
incantations amulets and other holy objects
were buried over 500 years ago Entering
inside this area may deteriorated the place or
otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most
of the interior can be appreciated from the
doorway
Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous
for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged
Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai
Due to its being less well advertised than its
neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham
is often a more peaceful temple from which
to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang
Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist
Lent when the place was alive with worshippers
Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once
the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic
giants Following a visit from the Buddha the
giants decided to mend their ways stop eating
their neighbours and convert to Buddhism
For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and
offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the
templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally
constructed towards the end of the 7th century
Although the temple fell into disrepair over the
centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered
a chamber containing a number of Buddha
images The discovery led to the revitalisation of
this mountain top temple
The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are
guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured
sword-wielding warriors The courtyard
overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and
bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of
food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the
road leading to the temple
Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-
west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek
and easily accessible by car or taxi
Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai
was being established the name translates
as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably
because it was used to cast Buddha images for
its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The
entrance to the temple is through a small but
intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos
assembly hall is notable because it is one of the
only viharns of its type constructed solely from
teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a
superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock
astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference
to the king who once used the wooden hall as
his palace The gilded image features mythical
creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured
glass
The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite
from the busy road outside Wooden boxes
contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm
leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a
large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors
Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks
like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a
small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less
imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo
temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru
recommends a quick visit if you are passing
Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous
temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi
Luang
The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the
largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it
was damaged either by an earthquake in the
16th century or cannon fire from the guns
of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese
in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO
funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps
up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga
serpents and a group of five elephants (only the
one without a trunk or ears partially survived
whatever caused the structure to collapse the
others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi
was also once home to one of the most revered
religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald
Buddha Although the original now resides in
Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and
once again looks out over the city from a niche
on the east side of the structure
Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and
now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly
hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance
is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a
great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar
housed in a building at the base of the tree
Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although
one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few
alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed
Mae Hong Son
It is said that Mae Hong Son is the
most authentic and mountainous
province of Thailand For Thai Guru a
good reason to explore this province
side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai
province
Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of
Thailand The northern most part of this
province is at a distance of 924 km from
Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province
in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son
borders Myanmar On the south and east side it
borders Tak and Chiang Mai province
We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast
on the 108 road The scenery is woody and
mountainous so far so good And as we leave
the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek
for wildlife and beautiful landscapes
The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage
is that our average speed drops to less than
15 km hour No worries when you do trips
like these the clock stops and the only thing
on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning
landscapes that unfold before your eyes
The main road is well paved But as you might
understand we regularly go off road
This is the best way to come into contact with
locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo
While we are standing somewhere taking in the
beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a
falcon calling
A short walk through the forrest the sound
stops and we decide to sit down for some
water and well earned rest After a short while I
hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo
There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters
above us a white rumped falcon
Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras
it stays there and even when we start making
noises because we want to film it in flight it
takes itrsquos time
Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of
Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They
cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more
Of course they also have their own cattle And
walking through one of their small villages they
are very friendly and hospitable
It has to be said it is never smart to enter
a community or people with your camera
as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask
the people if they mind if you taking their
photograph or want to film their daily life
In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to
the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean
and offers a nice variety food on the terrace
with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city
where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists
Really nice to stroll down the walking street and
find food or a nice souvenir People are very
friendly as usual
From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae
Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an
average speed of 15 km hour
Halfway we jump out of the car into a river
Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to
keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn
but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around
without it
Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome
us and are gladly willing to allow us to make
photographs and film them
In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early
morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises
For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum
After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark
Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon
So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team
ChinatownBangkok
Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese
people in big cities around the world
Manhattan San Francisco Manilla
Paris and Boston have them and
more keep being officially recognised
in their role as historical and touristic
center every year Even places like
Dubai and Las Vegas have modern
day versions of this phenomenon
As soon as you pass under one of the famous
large red entrance arches you arrive in a
complete different world
A world that is paradise for photographers
A couple of the photographers in the Thai
Guru team decided to spend some time in the
Bangkok version of Chinatown
If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for
some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at
Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim
Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat
SLEEPY NANA dream destination
Relatively unknown and uncrowded
Nan has it all This gem of a province
hides an abundance of cultural and
natural attractions ancient temples
pristine forests rivers mountain
peaks but what strikes you most is
its omnipresent feel of an untroubled
authentic way of life
Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings
you this genuine feel in pictures and footage
For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of
Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant
nature and the nature of its people show
Thailand - as is often said before hordes of
tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas
it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan
managed to escape this proces but will it stay
that way Nan shares most of its border with
neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening
of the border and beyond towards China it is to
be expected that it will ultimately become an
important gateway for trade and tourism
Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town
and the countryside will enchant you and the natural
cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy
for at least a couple of days The town along the banks
of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base
to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night
life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous
temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue
influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The
great surroundings can best be explored by renting a
motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo
Much of the province is devoted to farming
Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still
being practised in areas of the province resulting
in a landscape where forests and fields alternate
Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside
of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature
peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich
natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the
province sees far fewer visitors than popular
neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You
can go white water rafting on the Wa River
along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim
National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay
overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes
Touring Nan
Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern
lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities
of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old
salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via
endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges
and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with
orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers
Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready
to be harvested broke through the green hills
giving a golden hue to the landscape
We encountered friendly villagers who worked
their way through the dry fields - meanwhile
singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to
supplement their meager incomes Despite their
hardship they showed us their heartwarming
hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes
with us
This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi
Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and
sparsely populated that we only passed two
cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos
difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand
nowadays
PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river
The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness
begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over
the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above
the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is
broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices
Then the carved image of a Naga becomes
visible above the water line followed by more
than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted
in red and gold colorshellip
During the year the remote provincial town
of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a
year for the annual spectacle of traditional
Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos
water artery The finals are held over two
days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos
banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite
team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in
Thailand yet relatively unknown
The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long
simple shelters where the massive dragon boats
are housed during the year Just once a year
they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos
most important sporting and social event The
event takes place right after the end of the
rainy season around early November when
water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at
their highest The colorful races are part of the
festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the
last day of Buddhist Lent in October
The narrow boats are made from massive
hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters
in length depending how many paddlers they
are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily
distinguishable by their use of bright colors and
mythical designs in the traditional local style
The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of
each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting
only the good ones to participate in their race
How to get there
Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is
connected by plane and by bus to the rest of
the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan
Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice
each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to
Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to
Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on
the service
Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan
(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8
hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)
The contestants of the races are classified into
three categories mdashlarge medium and small
boats Depending on their length each boat can
accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers
sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the
same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously
against the current to the frantic beating of a
drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern
The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying
their attempt to reach the finish line first and
the paddles churning up the river creates a
spectacular atmosphere
Son
g K
ran
in
Ch
ian
g M
ai
Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of
the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down
in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The
days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing
steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the
hot months of April and May The stifling mid-
day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out
unless necessary The buzz around town about
some festival called Song Kran is starting to
increase an underlying excitement rising
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
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To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
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available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
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The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
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These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
On occasion elephants outside the park require help so they can contact Im who will go out to the
surrounding area and provide a mobile clinic This service is provided free of charge courtesy of the park and
is a much appreciated service to the elephants who do not have a fixed home and whose mahouts cannot
otherwise afford treatment for their animals
With the sun approaching the meridian we said our farewells and headed back to town with the peace of
mind knowing that the magnificent elephants would be in the capable hands of Im the vet who cares and
treats them day to day
International Training Massage School
On a peaceful street a short walk from Chiang
Mairsquos old city is the International Training Massage
School An airy modern building in the traditional
Lanna style welcomes beginners seeking to learn
the basics of traditional Thai massage as well as
seasoned massage professionals looking to expand
their skills
Thai Guru is well used to being on the receiving
end of a skilful pair of hands of belonging to an
experienced masseuse so were pleased to be
invited to join the students at ITM to learn a bit more
about the training that is required to perform one of
the best things about living in Thailand
Chiang Mai is a mecca for those wishing to
spend a few days a few weeks or a few months
learning the art of Nuad Boran or lsquoancient
Thai Massagersquo Massage is serious business
in this part of the world and schools like ITM
tech everything from introduction courses
to advanced teacher training There are also
some quite specific classes on offer including
pregnancy massage hot stone healing massage
and infant massage
The ITM students turn up to begin their studies
early in the morning Shoes and sandals are left
outside the building next to a decorative koi
carp pond comfortable loose fitting pyjamas
are donned feet are washed and it is off to one
of the yoga studios to settle down and the first
blessing of the day Prayers are offered up by
students and teachers to Dr Shivago Komarpaj
Buddharsquos physician and the father of Thai
massage
Traditional Thai massage is practiced without
oils unguents or lotions and both giver and
receiver keep their clothes on The therapy
involves the compression rocking stretching
and manipulation of the joints and muscles
rather than the rubbing and stroking often
employed in other forms of massage
Once the prayers and blessings have been given up it is time for the students to get themselves ready for
the dayrsquos exertions by stretching To the relaxing sounds of flute music a teacher guides the trainees through
a set of yoga moves On the morning Thai Guru visited there were fifteen students being gently told to
assume the lsquosupermanrsquo and kick their legs into the air for the lsquoreverse bicyclersquo
We were informed that the combination of rhythmic stretches traditionally used by yogis and hermits (who
probably better than anyone know the importance of a good stretch) as well as warming up the studentsrsquo
bodies help the novices to understand better what they will be doing to the bodies of those they are about
to massage
A short break for coffee and bananas in a quiet courtyard watched over by a shrine to Dr Shivago and itrsquos
back to the classroom for a demonstration of the significance of some basic Nuad Boran moves The
students gather round books with detailed diagrams open on their laps to study how to perfect moves like
lsquothe flamingorsquo and lsquothe last tangorsquo among others
The founder of the school Mr Chongkol Setthakorn takes over the class for
the serious task of making sure the students have been paying attention and
arenrsquot in the process of giving each other hernias A quick prayer is said and
the real business of bending stretching and joint crunching begins
The students we met had been training for between three and four weeks
However courses at ITM and indeed at schools across Chiang Mai can be
tailored to fit the requirements of anyone who wishes to get involved in an
activity that gives enormous pleasure to both the giver and receiver - as Mr
Settakorn astutely explains ldquoThai Massage is like a thousand gentle waves
washing over the bodyrdquo
ITM ndash International Training Massage School
599 Chang Puak Road
Soi 4 Chor
Sriphum
Muang Chiang Mai
50200 THAILAND
Phone +66-5321-8632
Mobile +66-83-763-1002
Email itmitmthaimassagecom
wwwitmthaimassagecom
Krabi dream destination
After a couple of weeks traveling through
Thailand many are looking for the
perfect location to spend their last days
of their vancation Perfection doesnrsquot
exist but dream destination Krabi is gets
close
Located in the south west of Thailand
Krabi is also thanks to its airport an easy
destination to reach
You will notice the friendly atmosphere in this
area of Thailand right away
A couple of must sees like the Emerald Pond
and the Hot Waterfall are definitely worth your
visit Imagine relaxing in a the hot waterfall
under the exotic trees
And of course an island tour is a must when
you are in Krabi
By boat you can visit Por da Koh Hong Koh Kai
and the famous Pranang cave
Khao Yai National Park
Since establishing Thai Guru Magazine
we have been eager to take our
cameras to Khao Yai National Park
Having visited the area previously
I had already enjoyed the beauty
of Khao Yai and the abundance of
wildlife to be seen there and was keen
to share it with the rest of the team
Finally at the end of January we
jumped in the car for the long drive
south from
Chiang Mai
Three hours northeast of Bangkok Khao Yai
is the oldest and third largest national park
in Thailand Grasslands evergreen forests
monsoon forests and rain forests cover more
than 2000 square kilometres of this Unesco
World Heritage site
The park is teeming with wildlife Mammals
including elephant gibbon barking deer and
guar live within the parkrsquos borders The area
is also home to carnivores such as Asian wild
dogs and tigers as well as numerous reptiles and
amphibians including king cobras pythons and
monitor lizards Nearly 400 species of bird can
be found at Khao Yai Other attractions in this
trekkersrsquo paradise include several large waterfalls
The 20 metre Haew Suwat waterfall with is
deep pool was made famous by the film lsquoThe
Beachrsquo
Day 1The road leading to the gates of Khao Yai National Park is notable for its
numerous Italian influenced restaurants hotels and guesthouses A paradise
for pizza and pasta lovers there is even a small Italian-style village with ice-
cream parlours eateries and Italian themed guesthouses Almost immediately
after entering the park we were greeted by the sight of black giant squirrels
and pig tailed macaques clamouring in the canopy all around us Our first stop
was the visitor centre where we picked up a map of the park and other useful
information Outside were several sambar deer picking through restaurant
leftovers The rest of the day was spent exploring spots in which to set up
our cameras the following day We also made the first of several walks to the
observation tower adjacent to Nong Pak Chee reservoir As well as fabulous
views of the park the tower overlooks a saltlick where all manner of wildlife
gathers to suck up vital minerals and nutrients
Day 2Khao Yai is extremely popular with visitors and we could only
book lodging within its borders for the last two days of our trip
This meant an early start so we could get into the park in time to
shoot the sunrise We were the first visitors of the day and drove
to one of the places we had explored the day before We came
across what we thought was one of the many sambar or barking
deer that roam freely around the park We decided to take a
closer look only to find we had stumbled across an Asiatic black
bear half hidden in the morning mist Having spotted us after a
few minutes the handsome creature ambled off into the forest
The dawn had barely broken and our day was already a triumph
The rest of our time was spent following gibbons various varieties
deer and innumerable brightly coloured birds
Day 3Today we were fortunate to be allowed to move
ourselves and our equipment into government-
owned lodgings within the park Our first
mission was to set our cameras up at a place
where we had heard the heavy distinctive
rushing of wings and calls of hornbills (described
by some as sounding like the puffing of a steam
locomotive) the day before
We had expected a long wait but already had
our first shots of this impressive bird in the
can before breakfast We spent many hours
photographing hornbills macaque and other
wildlife
We even stumbled upon a pack of Asian wild
dogs gathered around the carcass of a recently
killed deer We thought our wildlife encounters
for the day were over as we sat down to enjoy
dinner only to be disturbed by scuffling sounds
behind our bungalow The noise was being
made by a pair of porcupines who were not in
the least afraid of us and actually attempted to
chase us away
Day 4The day was spent exploring the trails of Khao Yai and discovering among other wildlife a magnificent
crested serpent eagle As the afternoon drew to a close we decided to take one last trip to the watchtower
From here we witnessed the gathering of a large flock of hornbills We showed some of our footage to a
friendly ranger He was particularly interested in our bear shots We were thrilled to be told that it was very
rare to see a black bear even more so when we were informed that none of the rangers had seen one for
a number of months I decided to leave the tower to find a good place to photograph the sunset Within
a matter of minutes I heard someone scream ldquoBEARrdquo and was back up the stairs in seconds There below
us taking an evening stroll through the grass just metres from where we were perched was another much
younger black bear
Our trip could not have ended better Needless
to say Thai Guru thoroughly recommends a visit
to Khao Yai National Park As already mentioned
the park is popular with both local and foreign
tourists especially on holidays and weekends
We advise that you try to visit during the week
when the park is quieter and the chance of
seeing the amazing wildlife is greater
The park has two camping grounds as well as a
few bungalows that can be booked through the
Department of National Parks Wildlife and Plant
Conservation These need to be booked well
in advance However there are also plenty of
guesthouses and hotels are to be found along
the parkrsquos boundaries
Festival of LanternsThe enchanting atmosphere of Loi Krathong
The weather is cooling down and itrsquos
that time of year again when we all
take to the waterways of Thailand and
give praise to Khongkha the water
Goddess who took care of abundant
rainfall in the past raining season
Donrsquot miss this joyful celebration with
its enchanting atmosphere that brings
one and all in Thailand together
much like Songkran
Thailandrsquos lsquoFestival of Lightsrsquo is celebrated
throughout the kingdom on the night of the
November full moon The end of the rainy
season heralds the coolest months in the
countryrsquos calendar when the river waters are
also supposed to be at their highest
Superstition replaces religion on this night as
thousands flock to the banks of the swollen
rivers and canals to release khratongs floating
tributes to the river spirits and Mother Water ndash
Phra Mae Khongkha In recent years the festival
has been revived in the ancient temples of
Thailandrsquos former capital Sukhothai
Visitors assemble in the Sukhothai Historical
Park with their banana leaf khratongs decorated
with flowers incense sticks and candles to take
part in a ceremony that dates back centuries
Sometimes a coin is added as gift to the spirits
The pretty rafts are then released onto the lake
with a wish
It was once believed that Loi Khratong
was actually created in Sukhothai by Nang
Nopphamas a lady of the court and consort
of the king In fact the celebration was adapted
by Thai Buddhists from a Brahmanical festival
adapted to honour Buddha
The khratong is meant to be a light on the
darkness of the water for Buddha A personrsquos
sins and negative thoughts are also believed to
float away with the colourful little raft Try adding
a lock of your hair for extra luck
Nearly 20 of the Northern provinces will be
showing off a dazzling selection of floats in the
Royal Khratongs Procession as well as holding a
Miss Nopphamat beauty contest
A competition is held for the most beautifully
designed khratong as well as plenty of other
Sukhothai arts and cultural performances
The Light-and-Sound Presentation at Wat
Mahathat explains the history and origins of
Sukhothai and Loi Khratong through dance
music prayer combat displays light effects and
fireworks No Loi Khratong would be complete
without fireworks and thankfully the Thais are
not shy when it comes to blowing things up in
the sky
Tra Kuan pond is the place to be for the floating
of the Royal Khratongs followed by more
firmament-filling pyrotechnics Wat Chana
Songkram is the venue for the Mahachat
sermon Khon Marked Dance and a Thai
classical music performance
Thai Guru decided to travel from Chiang Mai
to Sukhotai for this yearrsquos festivities Although
the heavens decided to open for most of the
celebrations on the final day the rain could not
dampen the celebrations and the spectacle was
jaw dropping
The only thing that was missing due to the rain
was a sky filled with khom loi the sky lanterns
usually released into the firmament in their
hundreds
Although the festivities officially last for the best
part of a week it is the last three days that are
the busiest
Visitors can join in with a range of activities
including fruit carving or just wander around the
historic park listening to live traditional music
watching Thai martial arts or join the parade
of dancers musicians and beauty contestants
all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured
costumes
There are numerous places to stay for the
duration of the festival but it is advisable to
book ahead if you can because this is a very
popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north
from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai
Chiang Mai Temples
A visit to a temple in Thailand is
unavoidable They are everywhere
We at Thai Guru are well aware that
because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can
quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang
Mai With this in mind (and because
the city is overflowing with hundreds
of them) we have chosen a few of
our favourites we hope are slightly
alternative to the ones on the usual
tourist itinerary
Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to
the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its
latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of
the skills of the local silversmiths Like many
of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was
established several centuries ago The ubosoth
or ordination hall is an intricately designed
silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in
the sunlight
The area around Wua Lai has been the home to
silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past
couple of centuries who are famed throughout
the kingdom for creating detailed embossed
relief patterns on the objects they create
something that is immediately evident and
celebrated at Wat Srisuphan
The larger more traditionally decorated red blue
and gold prayer hall also contains impressive
silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos
life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft
museum
Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the
artisans at work and the temple has its own
silver-working school where apprentices are
trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive
Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved
in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-
robed residents of the temple improve their
linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also
available
Unfortunately women are not allowed to
enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this
is explained on a sign outside the wording of
which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in
the monastic boundary many precious things
incantations amulets and other holy objects
were buried over 500 years ago Entering
inside this area may deteriorated the place or
otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most
of the interior can be appreciated from the
doorway
Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous
for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged
Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai
Due to its being less well advertised than its
neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham
is often a more peaceful temple from which
to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang
Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist
Lent when the place was alive with worshippers
Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once
the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic
giants Following a visit from the Buddha the
giants decided to mend their ways stop eating
their neighbours and convert to Buddhism
For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and
offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the
templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally
constructed towards the end of the 7th century
Although the temple fell into disrepair over the
centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered
a chamber containing a number of Buddha
images The discovery led to the revitalisation of
this mountain top temple
The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are
guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured
sword-wielding warriors The courtyard
overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and
bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of
food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the
road leading to the temple
Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-
west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek
and easily accessible by car or taxi
Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai
was being established the name translates
as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably
because it was used to cast Buddha images for
its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The
entrance to the temple is through a small but
intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos
assembly hall is notable because it is one of the
only viharns of its type constructed solely from
teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a
superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock
astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference
to the king who once used the wooden hall as
his palace The gilded image features mythical
creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured
glass
The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite
from the busy road outside Wooden boxes
contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm
leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a
large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors
Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks
like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a
small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less
imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo
temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru
recommends a quick visit if you are passing
Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous
temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi
Luang
The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the
largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it
was damaged either by an earthquake in the
16th century or cannon fire from the guns
of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese
in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO
funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps
up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga
serpents and a group of five elephants (only the
one without a trunk or ears partially survived
whatever caused the structure to collapse the
others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi
was also once home to one of the most revered
religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald
Buddha Although the original now resides in
Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and
once again looks out over the city from a niche
on the east side of the structure
Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and
now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly
hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance
is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a
great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar
housed in a building at the base of the tree
Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although
one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few
alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed
Mae Hong Son
It is said that Mae Hong Son is the
most authentic and mountainous
province of Thailand For Thai Guru a
good reason to explore this province
side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai
province
Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of
Thailand The northern most part of this
province is at a distance of 924 km from
Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province
in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son
borders Myanmar On the south and east side it
borders Tak and Chiang Mai province
We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast
on the 108 road The scenery is woody and
mountainous so far so good And as we leave
the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek
for wildlife and beautiful landscapes
The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage
is that our average speed drops to less than
15 km hour No worries when you do trips
like these the clock stops and the only thing
on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning
landscapes that unfold before your eyes
The main road is well paved But as you might
understand we regularly go off road
This is the best way to come into contact with
locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo
While we are standing somewhere taking in the
beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a
falcon calling
A short walk through the forrest the sound
stops and we decide to sit down for some
water and well earned rest After a short while I
hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo
There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters
above us a white rumped falcon
Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras
it stays there and even when we start making
noises because we want to film it in flight it
takes itrsquos time
Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of
Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They
cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more
Of course they also have their own cattle And
walking through one of their small villages they
are very friendly and hospitable
It has to be said it is never smart to enter
a community or people with your camera
as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask
the people if they mind if you taking their
photograph or want to film their daily life
In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to
the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean
and offers a nice variety food on the terrace
with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city
where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists
Really nice to stroll down the walking street and
find food or a nice souvenir People are very
friendly as usual
From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae
Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an
average speed of 15 km hour
Halfway we jump out of the car into a river
Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to
keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn
but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around
without it
Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome
us and are gladly willing to allow us to make
photographs and film them
In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early
morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises
For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum
After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark
Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon
So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team
ChinatownBangkok
Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese
people in big cities around the world
Manhattan San Francisco Manilla
Paris and Boston have them and
more keep being officially recognised
in their role as historical and touristic
center every year Even places like
Dubai and Las Vegas have modern
day versions of this phenomenon
As soon as you pass under one of the famous
large red entrance arches you arrive in a
complete different world
A world that is paradise for photographers
A couple of the photographers in the Thai
Guru team decided to spend some time in the
Bangkok version of Chinatown
If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for
some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at
Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim
Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat
SLEEPY NANA dream destination
Relatively unknown and uncrowded
Nan has it all This gem of a province
hides an abundance of cultural and
natural attractions ancient temples
pristine forests rivers mountain
peaks but what strikes you most is
its omnipresent feel of an untroubled
authentic way of life
Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings
you this genuine feel in pictures and footage
For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of
Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant
nature and the nature of its people show
Thailand - as is often said before hordes of
tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas
it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan
managed to escape this proces but will it stay
that way Nan shares most of its border with
neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening
of the border and beyond towards China it is to
be expected that it will ultimately become an
important gateway for trade and tourism
Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town
and the countryside will enchant you and the natural
cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy
for at least a couple of days The town along the banks
of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base
to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night
life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous
temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue
influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The
great surroundings can best be explored by renting a
motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo
Much of the province is devoted to farming
Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still
being practised in areas of the province resulting
in a landscape where forests and fields alternate
Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside
of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature
peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich
natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the
province sees far fewer visitors than popular
neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You
can go white water rafting on the Wa River
along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim
National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay
overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes
Touring Nan
Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern
lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities
of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old
salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via
endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges
and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with
orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers
Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready
to be harvested broke through the green hills
giving a golden hue to the landscape
We encountered friendly villagers who worked
their way through the dry fields - meanwhile
singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to
supplement their meager incomes Despite their
hardship they showed us their heartwarming
hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes
with us
This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi
Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and
sparsely populated that we only passed two
cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos
difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand
nowadays
PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river
The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness
begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over
the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above
the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is
broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices
Then the carved image of a Naga becomes
visible above the water line followed by more
than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted
in red and gold colorshellip
During the year the remote provincial town
of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a
year for the annual spectacle of traditional
Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos
water artery The finals are held over two
days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos
banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite
team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in
Thailand yet relatively unknown
The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long
simple shelters where the massive dragon boats
are housed during the year Just once a year
they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos
most important sporting and social event The
event takes place right after the end of the
rainy season around early November when
water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at
their highest The colorful races are part of the
festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the
last day of Buddhist Lent in October
The narrow boats are made from massive
hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters
in length depending how many paddlers they
are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily
distinguishable by their use of bright colors and
mythical designs in the traditional local style
The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of
each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting
only the good ones to participate in their race
How to get there
Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is
connected by plane and by bus to the rest of
the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan
Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice
each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to
Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to
Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on
the service
Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan
(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8
hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)
The contestants of the races are classified into
three categories mdashlarge medium and small
boats Depending on their length each boat can
accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers
sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the
same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously
against the current to the frantic beating of a
drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern
The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying
their attempt to reach the finish line first and
the paddles churning up the river creates a
spectacular atmosphere
Son
g K
ran
in
Ch
ian
g M
ai
Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of
the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down
in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The
days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing
steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the
hot months of April and May The stifling mid-
day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out
unless necessary The buzz around town about
some festival called Song Kran is starting to
increase an underlying excitement rising
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
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infothaigurumagazinecom
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available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
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Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
International Training Massage School
On a peaceful street a short walk from Chiang
Mairsquos old city is the International Training Massage
School An airy modern building in the traditional
Lanna style welcomes beginners seeking to learn
the basics of traditional Thai massage as well as
seasoned massage professionals looking to expand
their skills
Thai Guru is well used to being on the receiving
end of a skilful pair of hands of belonging to an
experienced masseuse so were pleased to be
invited to join the students at ITM to learn a bit more
about the training that is required to perform one of
the best things about living in Thailand
Chiang Mai is a mecca for those wishing to
spend a few days a few weeks or a few months
learning the art of Nuad Boran or lsquoancient
Thai Massagersquo Massage is serious business
in this part of the world and schools like ITM
tech everything from introduction courses
to advanced teacher training There are also
some quite specific classes on offer including
pregnancy massage hot stone healing massage
and infant massage
The ITM students turn up to begin their studies
early in the morning Shoes and sandals are left
outside the building next to a decorative koi
carp pond comfortable loose fitting pyjamas
are donned feet are washed and it is off to one
of the yoga studios to settle down and the first
blessing of the day Prayers are offered up by
students and teachers to Dr Shivago Komarpaj
Buddharsquos physician and the father of Thai
massage
Traditional Thai massage is practiced without
oils unguents or lotions and both giver and
receiver keep their clothes on The therapy
involves the compression rocking stretching
and manipulation of the joints and muscles
rather than the rubbing and stroking often
employed in other forms of massage
Once the prayers and blessings have been given up it is time for the students to get themselves ready for
the dayrsquos exertions by stretching To the relaxing sounds of flute music a teacher guides the trainees through
a set of yoga moves On the morning Thai Guru visited there were fifteen students being gently told to
assume the lsquosupermanrsquo and kick their legs into the air for the lsquoreverse bicyclersquo
We were informed that the combination of rhythmic stretches traditionally used by yogis and hermits (who
probably better than anyone know the importance of a good stretch) as well as warming up the studentsrsquo
bodies help the novices to understand better what they will be doing to the bodies of those they are about
to massage
A short break for coffee and bananas in a quiet courtyard watched over by a shrine to Dr Shivago and itrsquos
back to the classroom for a demonstration of the significance of some basic Nuad Boran moves The
students gather round books with detailed diagrams open on their laps to study how to perfect moves like
lsquothe flamingorsquo and lsquothe last tangorsquo among others
The founder of the school Mr Chongkol Setthakorn takes over the class for
the serious task of making sure the students have been paying attention and
arenrsquot in the process of giving each other hernias A quick prayer is said and
the real business of bending stretching and joint crunching begins
The students we met had been training for between three and four weeks
However courses at ITM and indeed at schools across Chiang Mai can be
tailored to fit the requirements of anyone who wishes to get involved in an
activity that gives enormous pleasure to both the giver and receiver - as Mr
Settakorn astutely explains ldquoThai Massage is like a thousand gentle waves
washing over the bodyrdquo
ITM ndash International Training Massage School
599 Chang Puak Road
Soi 4 Chor
Sriphum
Muang Chiang Mai
50200 THAILAND
Phone +66-5321-8632
Mobile +66-83-763-1002
Email itmitmthaimassagecom
wwwitmthaimassagecom
Krabi dream destination
After a couple of weeks traveling through
Thailand many are looking for the
perfect location to spend their last days
of their vancation Perfection doesnrsquot
exist but dream destination Krabi is gets
close
Located in the south west of Thailand
Krabi is also thanks to its airport an easy
destination to reach
You will notice the friendly atmosphere in this
area of Thailand right away
A couple of must sees like the Emerald Pond
and the Hot Waterfall are definitely worth your
visit Imagine relaxing in a the hot waterfall
under the exotic trees
And of course an island tour is a must when
you are in Krabi
By boat you can visit Por da Koh Hong Koh Kai
and the famous Pranang cave
Khao Yai National Park
Since establishing Thai Guru Magazine
we have been eager to take our
cameras to Khao Yai National Park
Having visited the area previously
I had already enjoyed the beauty
of Khao Yai and the abundance of
wildlife to be seen there and was keen
to share it with the rest of the team
Finally at the end of January we
jumped in the car for the long drive
south from
Chiang Mai
Three hours northeast of Bangkok Khao Yai
is the oldest and third largest national park
in Thailand Grasslands evergreen forests
monsoon forests and rain forests cover more
than 2000 square kilometres of this Unesco
World Heritage site
The park is teeming with wildlife Mammals
including elephant gibbon barking deer and
guar live within the parkrsquos borders The area
is also home to carnivores such as Asian wild
dogs and tigers as well as numerous reptiles and
amphibians including king cobras pythons and
monitor lizards Nearly 400 species of bird can
be found at Khao Yai Other attractions in this
trekkersrsquo paradise include several large waterfalls
The 20 metre Haew Suwat waterfall with is
deep pool was made famous by the film lsquoThe
Beachrsquo
Day 1The road leading to the gates of Khao Yai National Park is notable for its
numerous Italian influenced restaurants hotels and guesthouses A paradise
for pizza and pasta lovers there is even a small Italian-style village with ice-
cream parlours eateries and Italian themed guesthouses Almost immediately
after entering the park we were greeted by the sight of black giant squirrels
and pig tailed macaques clamouring in the canopy all around us Our first stop
was the visitor centre where we picked up a map of the park and other useful
information Outside were several sambar deer picking through restaurant
leftovers The rest of the day was spent exploring spots in which to set up
our cameras the following day We also made the first of several walks to the
observation tower adjacent to Nong Pak Chee reservoir As well as fabulous
views of the park the tower overlooks a saltlick where all manner of wildlife
gathers to suck up vital minerals and nutrients
Day 2Khao Yai is extremely popular with visitors and we could only
book lodging within its borders for the last two days of our trip
This meant an early start so we could get into the park in time to
shoot the sunrise We were the first visitors of the day and drove
to one of the places we had explored the day before We came
across what we thought was one of the many sambar or barking
deer that roam freely around the park We decided to take a
closer look only to find we had stumbled across an Asiatic black
bear half hidden in the morning mist Having spotted us after a
few minutes the handsome creature ambled off into the forest
The dawn had barely broken and our day was already a triumph
The rest of our time was spent following gibbons various varieties
deer and innumerable brightly coloured birds
Day 3Today we were fortunate to be allowed to move
ourselves and our equipment into government-
owned lodgings within the park Our first
mission was to set our cameras up at a place
where we had heard the heavy distinctive
rushing of wings and calls of hornbills (described
by some as sounding like the puffing of a steam
locomotive) the day before
We had expected a long wait but already had
our first shots of this impressive bird in the
can before breakfast We spent many hours
photographing hornbills macaque and other
wildlife
We even stumbled upon a pack of Asian wild
dogs gathered around the carcass of a recently
killed deer We thought our wildlife encounters
for the day were over as we sat down to enjoy
dinner only to be disturbed by scuffling sounds
behind our bungalow The noise was being
made by a pair of porcupines who were not in
the least afraid of us and actually attempted to
chase us away
Day 4The day was spent exploring the trails of Khao Yai and discovering among other wildlife a magnificent
crested serpent eagle As the afternoon drew to a close we decided to take one last trip to the watchtower
From here we witnessed the gathering of a large flock of hornbills We showed some of our footage to a
friendly ranger He was particularly interested in our bear shots We were thrilled to be told that it was very
rare to see a black bear even more so when we were informed that none of the rangers had seen one for
a number of months I decided to leave the tower to find a good place to photograph the sunset Within
a matter of minutes I heard someone scream ldquoBEARrdquo and was back up the stairs in seconds There below
us taking an evening stroll through the grass just metres from where we were perched was another much
younger black bear
Our trip could not have ended better Needless
to say Thai Guru thoroughly recommends a visit
to Khao Yai National Park As already mentioned
the park is popular with both local and foreign
tourists especially on holidays and weekends
We advise that you try to visit during the week
when the park is quieter and the chance of
seeing the amazing wildlife is greater
The park has two camping grounds as well as a
few bungalows that can be booked through the
Department of National Parks Wildlife and Plant
Conservation These need to be booked well
in advance However there are also plenty of
guesthouses and hotels are to be found along
the parkrsquos boundaries
Festival of LanternsThe enchanting atmosphere of Loi Krathong
The weather is cooling down and itrsquos
that time of year again when we all
take to the waterways of Thailand and
give praise to Khongkha the water
Goddess who took care of abundant
rainfall in the past raining season
Donrsquot miss this joyful celebration with
its enchanting atmosphere that brings
one and all in Thailand together
much like Songkran
Thailandrsquos lsquoFestival of Lightsrsquo is celebrated
throughout the kingdom on the night of the
November full moon The end of the rainy
season heralds the coolest months in the
countryrsquos calendar when the river waters are
also supposed to be at their highest
Superstition replaces religion on this night as
thousands flock to the banks of the swollen
rivers and canals to release khratongs floating
tributes to the river spirits and Mother Water ndash
Phra Mae Khongkha In recent years the festival
has been revived in the ancient temples of
Thailandrsquos former capital Sukhothai
Visitors assemble in the Sukhothai Historical
Park with their banana leaf khratongs decorated
with flowers incense sticks and candles to take
part in a ceremony that dates back centuries
Sometimes a coin is added as gift to the spirits
The pretty rafts are then released onto the lake
with a wish
It was once believed that Loi Khratong
was actually created in Sukhothai by Nang
Nopphamas a lady of the court and consort
of the king In fact the celebration was adapted
by Thai Buddhists from a Brahmanical festival
adapted to honour Buddha
The khratong is meant to be a light on the
darkness of the water for Buddha A personrsquos
sins and negative thoughts are also believed to
float away with the colourful little raft Try adding
a lock of your hair for extra luck
Nearly 20 of the Northern provinces will be
showing off a dazzling selection of floats in the
Royal Khratongs Procession as well as holding a
Miss Nopphamat beauty contest
A competition is held for the most beautifully
designed khratong as well as plenty of other
Sukhothai arts and cultural performances
The Light-and-Sound Presentation at Wat
Mahathat explains the history and origins of
Sukhothai and Loi Khratong through dance
music prayer combat displays light effects and
fireworks No Loi Khratong would be complete
without fireworks and thankfully the Thais are
not shy when it comes to blowing things up in
the sky
Tra Kuan pond is the place to be for the floating
of the Royal Khratongs followed by more
firmament-filling pyrotechnics Wat Chana
Songkram is the venue for the Mahachat
sermon Khon Marked Dance and a Thai
classical music performance
Thai Guru decided to travel from Chiang Mai
to Sukhotai for this yearrsquos festivities Although
the heavens decided to open for most of the
celebrations on the final day the rain could not
dampen the celebrations and the spectacle was
jaw dropping
The only thing that was missing due to the rain
was a sky filled with khom loi the sky lanterns
usually released into the firmament in their
hundreds
Although the festivities officially last for the best
part of a week it is the last three days that are
the busiest
Visitors can join in with a range of activities
including fruit carving or just wander around the
historic park listening to live traditional music
watching Thai martial arts or join the parade
of dancers musicians and beauty contestants
all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured
costumes
There are numerous places to stay for the
duration of the festival but it is advisable to
book ahead if you can because this is a very
popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north
from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai
Chiang Mai Temples
A visit to a temple in Thailand is
unavoidable They are everywhere
We at Thai Guru are well aware that
because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can
quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang
Mai With this in mind (and because
the city is overflowing with hundreds
of them) we have chosen a few of
our favourites we hope are slightly
alternative to the ones on the usual
tourist itinerary
Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to
the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its
latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of
the skills of the local silversmiths Like many
of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was
established several centuries ago The ubosoth
or ordination hall is an intricately designed
silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in
the sunlight
The area around Wua Lai has been the home to
silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past
couple of centuries who are famed throughout
the kingdom for creating detailed embossed
relief patterns on the objects they create
something that is immediately evident and
celebrated at Wat Srisuphan
The larger more traditionally decorated red blue
and gold prayer hall also contains impressive
silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos
life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft
museum
Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the
artisans at work and the temple has its own
silver-working school where apprentices are
trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive
Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved
in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-
robed residents of the temple improve their
linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also
available
Unfortunately women are not allowed to
enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this
is explained on a sign outside the wording of
which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in
the monastic boundary many precious things
incantations amulets and other holy objects
were buried over 500 years ago Entering
inside this area may deteriorated the place or
otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most
of the interior can be appreciated from the
doorway
Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous
for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged
Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai
Due to its being less well advertised than its
neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham
is often a more peaceful temple from which
to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang
Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist
Lent when the place was alive with worshippers
Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once
the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic
giants Following a visit from the Buddha the
giants decided to mend their ways stop eating
their neighbours and convert to Buddhism
For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and
offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the
templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally
constructed towards the end of the 7th century
Although the temple fell into disrepair over the
centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered
a chamber containing a number of Buddha
images The discovery led to the revitalisation of
this mountain top temple
The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are
guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured
sword-wielding warriors The courtyard
overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and
bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of
food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the
road leading to the temple
Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-
west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek
and easily accessible by car or taxi
Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai
was being established the name translates
as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably
because it was used to cast Buddha images for
its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The
entrance to the temple is through a small but
intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos
assembly hall is notable because it is one of the
only viharns of its type constructed solely from
teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a
superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock
astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference
to the king who once used the wooden hall as
his palace The gilded image features mythical
creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured
glass
The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite
from the busy road outside Wooden boxes
contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm
leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a
large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors
Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks
like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a
small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less
imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo
temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru
recommends a quick visit if you are passing
Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous
temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi
Luang
The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the
largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it
was damaged either by an earthquake in the
16th century or cannon fire from the guns
of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese
in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO
funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps
up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga
serpents and a group of five elephants (only the
one without a trunk or ears partially survived
whatever caused the structure to collapse the
others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi
was also once home to one of the most revered
religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald
Buddha Although the original now resides in
Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and
once again looks out over the city from a niche
on the east side of the structure
Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and
now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly
hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance
is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a
great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar
housed in a building at the base of the tree
Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although
one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few
alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed
Mae Hong Son
It is said that Mae Hong Son is the
most authentic and mountainous
province of Thailand For Thai Guru a
good reason to explore this province
side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai
province
Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of
Thailand The northern most part of this
province is at a distance of 924 km from
Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province
in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son
borders Myanmar On the south and east side it
borders Tak and Chiang Mai province
We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast
on the 108 road The scenery is woody and
mountainous so far so good And as we leave
the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek
for wildlife and beautiful landscapes
The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage
is that our average speed drops to less than
15 km hour No worries when you do trips
like these the clock stops and the only thing
on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning
landscapes that unfold before your eyes
The main road is well paved But as you might
understand we regularly go off road
This is the best way to come into contact with
locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo
While we are standing somewhere taking in the
beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a
falcon calling
A short walk through the forrest the sound
stops and we decide to sit down for some
water and well earned rest After a short while I
hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo
There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters
above us a white rumped falcon
Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras
it stays there and even when we start making
noises because we want to film it in flight it
takes itrsquos time
Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of
Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They
cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more
Of course they also have their own cattle And
walking through one of their small villages they
are very friendly and hospitable
It has to be said it is never smart to enter
a community or people with your camera
as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask
the people if they mind if you taking their
photograph or want to film their daily life
In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to
the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean
and offers a nice variety food on the terrace
with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city
where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists
Really nice to stroll down the walking street and
find food or a nice souvenir People are very
friendly as usual
From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae
Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an
average speed of 15 km hour
Halfway we jump out of the car into a river
Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to
keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn
but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around
without it
Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome
us and are gladly willing to allow us to make
photographs and film them
In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early
morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises
For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum
After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark
Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon
So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team
ChinatownBangkok
Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese
people in big cities around the world
Manhattan San Francisco Manilla
Paris and Boston have them and
more keep being officially recognised
in their role as historical and touristic
center every year Even places like
Dubai and Las Vegas have modern
day versions of this phenomenon
As soon as you pass under one of the famous
large red entrance arches you arrive in a
complete different world
A world that is paradise for photographers
A couple of the photographers in the Thai
Guru team decided to spend some time in the
Bangkok version of Chinatown
If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for
some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at
Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim
Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat
SLEEPY NANA dream destination
Relatively unknown and uncrowded
Nan has it all This gem of a province
hides an abundance of cultural and
natural attractions ancient temples
pristine forests rivers mountain
peaks but what strikes you most is
its omnipresent feel of an untroubled
authentic way of life
Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings
you this genuine feel in pictures and footage
For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of
Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant
nature and the nature of its people show
Thailand - as is often said before hordes of
tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas
it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan
managed to escape this proces but will it stay
that way Nan shares most of its border with
neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening
of the border and beyond towards China it is to
be expected that it will ultimately become an
important gateway for trade and tourism
Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town
and the countryside will enchant you and the natural
cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy
for at least a couple of days The town along the banks
of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base
to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night
life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous
temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue
influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The
great surroundings can best be explored by renting a
motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo
Much of the province is devoted to farming
Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still
being practised in areas of the province resulting
in a landscape where forests and fields alternate
Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside
of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature
peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich
natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the
province sees far fewer visitors than popular
neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You
can go white water rafting on the Wa River
along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim
National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay
overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes
Touring Nan
Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern
lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities
of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old
salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via
endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges
and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with
orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers
Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready
to be harvested broke through the green hills
giving a golden hue to the landscape
We encountered friendly villagers who worked
their way through the dry fields - meanwhile
singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to
supplement their meager incomes Despite their
hardship they showed us their heartwarming
hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes
with us
This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi
Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and
sparsely populated that we only passed two
cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos
difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand
nowadays
PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river
The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness
begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over
the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above
the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is
broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices
Then the carved image of a Naga becomes
visible above the water line followed by more
than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted
in red and gold colorshellip
During the year the remote provincial town
of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a
year for the annual spectacle of traditional
Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos
water artery The finals are held over two
days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos
banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite
team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in
Thailand yet relatively unknown
The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long
simple shelters where the massive dragon boats
are housed during the year Just once a year
they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos
most important sporting and social event The
event takes place right after the end of the
rainy season around early November when
water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at
their highest The colorful races are part of the
festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the
last day of Buddhist Lent in October
The narrow boats are made from massive
hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters
in length depending how many paddlers they
are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily
distinguishable by their use of bright colors and
mythical designs in the traditional local style
The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of
each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting
only the good ones to participate in their race
How to get there
Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is
connected by plane and by bus to the rest of
the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan
Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice
each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to
Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to
Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on
the service
Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan
(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8
hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)
The contestants of the races are classified into
three categories mdashlarge medium and small
boats Depending on their length each boat can
accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers
sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the
same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously
against the current to the frantic beating of a
drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern
The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying
their attempt to reach the finish line first and
the paddles churning up the river creates a
spectacular atmosphere
Son
g K
ran
in
Ch
ian
g M
ai
Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of
the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down
in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The
days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing
steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the
hot months of April and May The stifling mid-
day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out
unless necessary The buzz around town about
some festival called Song Kran is starting to
increase an underlying excitement rising
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
contact us
infothaigurumagazinecom
All videos in this magazine are
available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
On a peaceful street a short walk from Chiang
Mairsquos old city is the International Training Massage
School An airy modern building in the traditional
Lanna style welcomes beginners seeking to learn
the basics of traditional Thai massage as well as
seasoned massage professionals looking to expand
their skills
Thai Guru is well used to being on the receiving
end of a skilful pair of hands of belonging to an
experienced masseuse so were pleased to be
invited to join the students at ITM to learn a bit more
about the training that is required to perform one of
the best things about living in Thailand
Chiang Mai is a mecca for those wishing to
spend a few days a few weeks or a few months
learning the art of Nuad Boran or lsquoancient
Thai Massagersquo Massage is serious business
in this part of the world and schools like ITM
tech everything from introduction courses
to advanced teacher training There are also
some quite specific classes on offer including
pregnancy massage hot stone healing massage
and infant massage
The ITM students turn up to begin their studies
early in the morning Shoes and sandals are left
outside the building next to a decorative koi
carp pond comfortable loose fitting pyjamas
are donned feet are washed and it is off to one
of the yoga studios to settle down and the first
blessing of the day Prayers are offered up by
students and teachers to Dr Shivago Komarpaj
Buddharsquos physician and the father of Thai
massage
Traditional Thai massage is practiced without
oils unguents or lotions and both giver and
receiver keep their clothes on The therapy
involves the compression rocking stretching
and manipulation of the joints and muscles
rather than the rubbing and stroking often
employed in other forms of massage
Once the prayers and blessings have been given up it is time for the students to get themselves ready for
the dayrsquos exertions by stretching To the relaxing sounds of flute music a teacher guides the trainees through
a set of yoga moves On the morning Thai Guru visited there were fifteen students being gently told to
assume the lsquosupermanrsquo and kick their legs into the air for the lsquoreverse bicyclersquo
We were informed that the combination of rhythmic stretches traditionally used by yogis and hermits (who
probably better than anyone know the importance of a good stretch) as well as warming up the studentsrsquo
bodies help the novices to understand better what they will be doing to the bodies of those they are about
to massage
A short break for coffee and bananas in a quiet courtyard watched over by a shrine to Dr Shivago and itrsquos
back to the classroom for a demonstration of the significance of some basic Nuad Boran moves The
students gather round books with detailed diagrams open on their laps to study how to perfect moves like
lsquothe flamingorsquo and lsquothe last tangorsquo among others
The founder of the school Mr Chongkol Setthakorn takes over the class for
the serious task of making sure the students have been paying attention and
arenrsquot in the process of giving each other hernias A quick prayer is said and
the real business of bending stretching and joint crunching begins
The students we met had been training for between three and four weeks
However courses at ITM and indeed at schools across Chiang Mai can be
tailored to fit the requirements of anyone who wishes to get involved in an
activity that gives enormous pleasure to both the giver and receiver - as Mr
Settakorn astutely explains ldquoThai Massage is like a thousand gentle waves
washing over the bodyrdquo
ITM ndash International Training Massage School
599 Chang Puak Road
Soi 4 Chor
Sriphum
Muang Chiang Mai
50200 THAILAND
Phone +66-5321-8632
Mobile +66-83-763-1002
Email itmitmthaimassagecom
wwwitmthaimassagecom
Krabi dream destination
After a couple of weeks traveling through
Thailand many are looking for the
perfect location to spend their last days
of their vancation Perfection doesnrsquot
exist but dream destination Krabi is gets
close
Located in the south west of Thailand
Krabi is also thanks to its airport an easy
destination to reach
You will notice the friendly atmosphere in this
area of Thailand right away
A couple of must sees like the Emerald Pond
and the Hot Waterfall are definitely worth your
visit Imagine relaxing in a the hot waterfall
under the exotic trees
And of course an island tour is a must when
you are in Krabi
By boat you can visit Por da Koh Hong Koh Kai
and the famous Pranang cave
Khao Yai National Park
Since establishing Thai Guru Magazine
we have been eager to take our
cameras to Khao Yai National Park
Having visited the area previously
I had already enjoyed the beauty
of Khao Yai and the abundance of
wildlife to be seen there and was keen
to share it with the rest of the team
Finally at the end of January we
jumped in the car for the long drive
south from
Chiang Mai
Three hours northeast of Bangkok Khao Yai
is the oldest and third largest national park
in Thailand Grasslands evergreen forests
monsoon forests and rain forests cover more
than 2000 square kilometres of this Unesco
World Heritage site
The park is teeming with wildlife Mammals
including elephant gibbon barking deer and
guar live within the parkrsquos borders The area
is also home to carnivores such as Asian wild
dogs and tigers as well as numerous reptiles and
amphibians including king cobras pythons and
monitor lizards Nearly 400 species of bird can
be found at Khao Yai Other attractions in this
trekkersrsquo paradise include several large waterfalls
The 20 metre Haew Suwat waterfall with is
deep pool was made famous by the film lsquoThe
Beachrsquo
Day 1The road leading to the gates of Khao Yai National Park is notable for its
numerous Italian influenced restaurants hotels and guesthouses A paradise
for pizza and pasta lovers there is even a small Italian-style village with ice-
cream parlours eateries and Italian themed guesthouses Almost immediately
after entering the park we were greeted by the sight of black giant squirrels
and pig tailed macaques clamouring in the canopy all around us Our first stop
was the visitor centre where we picked up a map of the park and other useful
information Outside were several sambar deer picking through restaurant
leftovers The rest of the day was spent exploring spots in which to set up
our cameras the following day We also made the first of several walks to the
observation tower adjacent to Nong Pak Chee reservoir As well as fabulous
views of the park the tower overlooks a saltlick where all manner of wildlife
gathers to suck up vital minerals and nutrients
Day 2Khao Yai is extremely popular with visitors and we could only
book lodging within its borders for the last two days of our trip
This meant an early start so we could get into the park in time to
shoot the sunrise We were the first visitors of the day and drove
to one of the places we had explored the day before We came
across what we thought was one of the many sambar or barking
deer that roam freely around the park We decided to take a
closer look only to find we had stumbled across an Asiatic black
bear half hidden in the morning mist Having spotted us after a
few minutes the handsome creature ambled off into the forest
The dawn had barely broken and our day was already a triumph
The rest of our time was spent following gibbons various varieties
deer and innumerable brightly coloured birds
Day 3Today we were fortunate to be allowed to move
ourselves and our equipment into government-
owned lodgings within the park Our first
mission was to set our cameras up at a place
where we had heard the heavy distinctive
rushing of wings and calls of hornbills (described
by some as sounding like the puffing of a steam
locomotive) the day before
We had expected a long wait but already had
our first shots of this impressive bird in the
can before breakfast We spent many hours
photographing hornbills macaque and other
wildlife
We even stumbled upon a pack of Asian wild
dogs gathered around the carcass of a recently
killed deer We thought our wildlife encounters
for the day were over as we sat down to enjoy
dinner only to be disturbed by scuffling sounds
behind our bungalow The noise was being
made by a pair of porcupines who were not in
the least afraid of us and actually attempted to
chase us away
Day 4The day was spent exploring the trails of Khao Yai and discovering among other wildlife a magnificent
crested serpent eagle As the afternoon drew to a close we decided to take one last trip to the watchtower
From here we witnessed the gathering of a large flock of hornbills We showed some of our footage to a
friendly ranger He was particularly interested in our bear shots We were thrilled to be told that it was very
rare to see a black bear even more so when we were informed that none of the rangers had seen one for
a number of months I decided to leave the tower to find a good place to photograph the sunset Within
a matter of minutes I heard someone scream ldquoBEARrdquo and was back up the stairs in seconds There below
us taking an evening stroll through the grass just metres from where we were perched was another much
younger black bear
Our trip could not have ended better Needless
to say Thai Guru thoroughly recommends a visit
to Khao Yai National Park As already mentioned
the park is popular with both local and foreign
tourists especially on holidays and weekends
We advise that you try to visit during the week
when the park is quieter and the chance of
seeing the amazing wildlife is greater
The park has two camping grounds as well as a
few bungalows that can be booked through the
Department of National Parks Wildlife and Plant
Conservation These need to be booked well
in advance However there are also plenty of
guesthouses and hotels are to be found along
the parkrsquos boundaries
Festival of LanternsThe enchanting atmosphere of Loi Krathong
The weather is cooling down and itrsquos
that time of year again when we all
take to the waterways of Thailand and
give praise to Khongkha the water
Goddess who took care of abundant
rainfall in the past raining season
Donrsquot miss this joyful celebration with
its enchanting atmosphere that brings
one and all in Thailand together
much like Songkran
Thailandrsquos lsquoFestival of Lightsrsquo is celebrated
throughout the kingdom on the night of the
November full moon The end of the rainy
season heralds the coolest months in the
countryrsquos calendar when the river waters are
also supposed to be at their highest
Superstition replaces religion on this night as
thousands flock to the banks of the swollen
rivers and canals to release khratongs floating
tributes to the river spirits and Mother Water ndash
Phra Mae Khongkha In recent years the festival
has been revived in the ancient temples of
Thailandrsquos former capital Sukhothai
Visitors assemble in the Sukhothai Historical
Park with their banana leaf khratongs decorated
with flowers incense sticks and candles to take
part in a ceremony that dates back centuries
Sometimes a coin is added as gift to the spirits
The pretty rafts are then released onto the lake
with a wish
It was once believed that Loi Khratong
was actually created in Sukhothai by Nang
Nopphamas a lady of the court and consort
of the king In fact the celebration was adapted
by Thai Buddhists from a Brahmanical festival
adapted to honour Buddha
The khratong is meant to be a light on the
darkness of the water for Buddha A personrsquos
sins and negative thoughts are also believed to
float away with the colourful little raft Try adding
a lock of your hair for extra luck
Nearly 20 of the Northern provinces will be
showing off a dazzling selection of floats in the
Royal Khratongs Procession as well as holding a
Miss Nopphamat beauty contest
A competition is held for the most beautifully
designed khratong as well as plenty of other
Sukhothai arts and cultural performances
The Light-and-Sound Presentation at Wat
Mahathat explains the history and origins of
Sukhothai and Loi Khratong through dance
music prayer combat displays light effects and
fireworks No Loi Khratong would be complete
without fireworks and thankfully the Thais are
not shy when it comes to blowing things up in
the sky
Tra Kuan pond is the place to be for the floating
of the Royal Khratongs followed by more
firmament-filling pyrotechnics Wat Chana
Songkram is the venue for the Mahachat
sermon Khon Marked Dance and a Thai
classical music performance
Thai Guru decided to travel from Chiang Mai
to Sukhotai for this yearrsquos festivities Although
the heavens decided to open for most of the
celebrations on the final day the rain could not
dampen the celebrations and the spectacle was
jaw dropping
The only thing that was missing due to the rain
was a sky filled with khom loi the sky lanterns
usually released into the firmament in their
hundreds
Although the festivities officially last for the best
part of a week it is the last three days that are
the busiest
Visitors can join in with a range of activities
including fruit carving or just wander around the
historic park listening to live traditional music
watching Thai martial arts or join the parade
of dancers musicians and beauty contestants
all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured
costumes
There are numerous places to stay for the
duration of the festival but it is advisable to
book ahead if you can because this is a very
popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north
from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai
Chiang Mai Temples
A visit to a temple in Thailand is
unavoidable They are everywhere
We at Thai Guru are well aware that
because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can
quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang
Mai With this in mind (and because
the city is overflowing with hundreds
of them) we have chosen a few of
our favourites we hope are slightly
alternative to the ones on the usual
tourist itinerary
Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to
the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its
latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of
the skills of the local silversmiths Like many
of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was
established several centuries ago The ubosoth
or ordination hall is an intricately designed
silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in
the sunlight
The area around Wua Lai has been the home to
silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past
couple of centuries who are famed throughout
the kingdom for creating detailed embossed
relief patterns on the objects they create
something that is immediately evident and
celebrated at Wat Srisuphan
The larger more traditionally decorated red blue
and gold prayer hall also contains impressive
silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos
life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft
museum
Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the
artisans at work and the temple has its own
silver-working school where apprentices are
trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive
Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved
in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-
robed residents of the temple improve their
linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also
available
Unfortunately women are not allowed to
enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this
is explained on a sign outside the wording of
which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in
the monastic boundary many precious things
incantations amulets and other holy objects
were buried over 500 years ago Entering
inside this area may deteriorated the place or
otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most
of the interior can be appreciated from the
doorway
Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous
for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged
Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai
Due to its being less well advertised than its
neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham
is often a more peaceful temple from which
to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang
Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist
Lent when the place was alive with worshippers
Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once
the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic
giants Following a visit from the Buddha the
giants decided to mend their ways stop eating
their neighbours and convert to Buddhism
For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and
offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the
templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally
constructed towards the end of the 7th century
Although the temple fell into disrepair over the
centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered
a chamber containing a number of Buddha
images The discovery led to the revitalisation of
this mountain top temple
The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are
guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured
sword-wielding warriors The courtyard
overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and
bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of
food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the
road leading to the temple
Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-
west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek
and easily accessible by car or taxi
Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai
was being established the name translates
as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably
because it was used to cast Buddha images for
its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The
entrance to the temple is through a small but
intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos
assembly hall is notable because it is one of the
only viharns of its type constructed solely from
teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a
superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock
astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference
to the king who once used the wooden hall as
his palace The gilded image features mythical
creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured
glass
The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite
from the busy road outside Wooden boxes
contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm
leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a
large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors
Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks
like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a
small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less
imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo
temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru
recommends a quick visit if you are passing
Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous
temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi
Luang
The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the
largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it
was damaged either by an earthquake in the
16th century or cannon fire from the guns
of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese
in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO
funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps
up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga
serpents and a group of five elephants (only the
one without a trunk or ears partially survived
whatever caused the structure to collapse the
others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi
was also once home to one of the most revered
religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald
Buddha Although the original now resides in
Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and
once again looks out over the city from a niche
on the east side of the structure
Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and
now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly
hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance
is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a
great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar
housed in a building at the base of the tree
Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although
one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few
alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed
Mae Hong Son
It is said that Mae Hong Son is the
most authentic and mountainous
province of Thailand For Thai Guru a
good reason to explore this province
side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai
province
Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of
Thailand The northern most part of this
province is at a distance of 924 km from
Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province
in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son
borders Myanmar On the south and east side it
borders Tak and Chiang Mai province
We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast
on the 108 road The scenery is woody and
mountainous so far so good And as we leave
the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek
for wildlife and beautiful landscapes
The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage
is that our average speed drops to less than
15 km hour No worries when you do trips
like these the clock stops and the only thing
on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning
landscapes that unfold before your eyes
The main road is well paved But as you might
understand we regularly go off road
This is the best way to come into contact with
locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo
While we are standing somewhere taking in the
beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a
falcon calling
A short walk through the forrest the sound
stops and we decide to sit down for some
water and well earned rest After a short while I
hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo
There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters
above us a white rumped falcon
Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras
it stays there and even when we start making
noises because we want to film it in flight it
takes itrsquos time
Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of
Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They
cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more
Of course they also have their own cattle And
walking through one of their small villages they
are very friendly and hospitable
It has to be said it is never smart to enter
a community or people with your camera
as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask
the people if they mind if you taking their
photograph or want to film their daily life
In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to
the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean
and offers a nice variety food on the terrace
with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city
where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists
Really nice to stroll down the walking street and
find food or a nice souvenir People are very
friendly as usual
From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae
Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an
average speed of 15 km hour
Halfway we jump out of the car into a river
Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to
keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn
but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around
without it
Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome
us and are gladly willing to allow us to make
photographs and film them
In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early
morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises
For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum
After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark
Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon
So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team
ChinatownBangkok
Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese
people in big cities around the world
Manhattan San Francisco Manilla
Paris and Boston have them and
more keep being officially recognised
in their role as historical and touristic
center every year Even places like
Dubai and Las Vegas have modern
day versions of this phenomenon
As soon as you pass under one of the famous
large red entrance arches you arrive in a
complete different world
A world that is paradise for photographers
A couple of the photographers in the Thai
Guru team decided to spend some time in the
Bangkok version of Chinatown
If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for
some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at
Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim
Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat
SLEEPY NANA dream destination
Relatively unknown and uncrowded
Nan has it all This gem of a province
hides an abundance of cultural and
natural attractions ancient temples
pristine forests rivers mountain
peaks but what strikes you most is
its omnipresent feel of an untroubled
authentic way of life
Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings
you this genuine feel in pictures and footage
For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of
Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant
nature and the nature of its people show
Thailand - as is often said before hordes of
tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas
it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan
managed to escape this proces but will it stay
that way Nan shares most of its border with
neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening
of the border and beyond towards China it is to
be expected that it will ultimately become an
important gateway for trade and tourism
Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town
and the countryside will enchant you and the natural
cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy
for at least a couple of days The town along the banks
of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base
to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night
life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous
temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue
influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The
great surroundings can best be explored by renting a
motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo
Much of the province is devoted to farming
Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still
being practised in areas of the province resulting
in a landscape where forests and fields alternate
Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside
of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature
peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich
natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the
province sees far fewer visitors than popular
neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You
can go white water rafting on the Wa River
along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim
National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay
overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes
Touring Nan
Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern
lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities
of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old
salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via
endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges
and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with
orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers
Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready
to be harvested broke through the green hills
giving a golden hue to the landscape
We encountered friendly villagers who worked
their way through the dry fields - meanwhile
singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to
supplement their meager incomes Despite their
hardship they showed us their heartwarming
hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes
with us
This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi
Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and
sparsely populated that we only passed two
cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos
difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand
nowadays
PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river
The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness
begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over
the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above
the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is
broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices
Then the carved image of a Naga becomes
visible above the water line followed by more
than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted
in red and gold colorshellip
During the year the remote provincial town
of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a
year for the annual spectacle of traditional
Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos
water artery The finals are held over two
days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos
banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite
team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in
Thailand yet relatively unknown
The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long
simple shelters where the massive dragon boats
are housed during the year Just once a year
they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos
most important sporting and social event The
event takes place right after the end of the
rainy season around early November when
water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at
their highest The colorful races are part of the
festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the
last day of Buddhist Lent in October
The narrow boats are made from massive
hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters
in length depending how many paddlers they
are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily
distinguishable by their use of bright colors and
mythical designs in the traditional local style
The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of
each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting
only the good ones to participate in their race
How to get there
Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is
connected by plane and by bus to the rest of
the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan
Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice
each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to
Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to
Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on
the service
Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan
(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8
hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)
The contestants of the races are classified into
three categories mdashlarge medium and small
boats Depending on their length each boat can
accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers
sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the
same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously
against the current to the frantic beating of a
drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern
The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying
their attempt to reach the finish line first and
the paddles churning up the river creates a
spectacular atmosphere
Son
g K
ran
in
Ch
ian
g M
ai
Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of
the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down
in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The
days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing
steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the
hot months of April and May The stifling mid-
day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out
unless necessary The buzz around town about
some festival called Song Kran is starting to
increase an underlying excitement rising
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
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To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
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infothaigurumagazinecom
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available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
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The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
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These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
Chiang Mai is a mecca for those wishing to
spend a few days a few weeks or a few months
learning the art of Nuad Boran or lsquoancient
Thai Massagersquo Massage is serious business
in this part of the world and schools like ITM
tech everything from introduction courses
to advanced teacher training There are also
some quite specific classes on offer including
pregnancy massage hot stone healing massage
and infant massage
The ITM students turn up to begin their studies
early in the morning Shoes and sandals are left
outside the building next to a decorative koi
carp pond comfortable loose fitting pyjamas
are donned feet are washed and it is off to one
of the yoga studios to settle down and the first
blessing of the day Prayers are offered up by
students and teachers to Dr Shivago Komarpaj
Buddharsquos physician and the father of Thai
massage
Traditional Thai massage is practiced without
oils unguents or lotions and both giver and
receiver keep their clothes on The therapy
involves the compression rocking stretching
and manipulation of the joints and muscles
rather than the rubbing and stroking often
employed in other forms of massage
Once the prayers and blessings have been given up it is time for the students to get themselves ready for
the dayrsquos exertions by stretching To the relaxing sounds of flute music a teacher guides the trainees through
a set of yoga moves On the morning Thai Guru visited there were fifteen students being gently told to
assume the lsquosupermanrsquo and kick their legs into the air for the lsquoreverse bicyclersquo
We were informed that the combination of rhythmic stretches traditionally used by yogis and hermits (who
probably better than anyone know the importance of a good stretch) as well as warming up the studentsrsquo
bodies help the novices to understand better what they will be doing to the bodies of those they are about
to massage
A short break for coffee and bananas in a quiet courtyard watched over by a shrine to Dr Shivago and itrsquos
back to the classroom for a demonstration of the significance of some basic Nuad Boran moves The
students gather round books with detailed diagrams open on their laps to study how to perfect moves like
lsquothe flamingorsquo and lsquothe last tangorsquo among others
The founder of the school Mr Chongkol Setthakorn takes over the class for
the serious task of making sure the students have been paying attention and
arenrsquot in the process of giving each other hernias A quick prayer is said and
the real business of bending stretching and joint crunching begins
The students we met had been training for between three and four weeks
However courses at ITM and indeed at schools across Chiang Mai can be
tailored to fit the requirements of anyone who wishes to get involved in an
activity that gives enormous pleasure to both the giver and receiver - as Mr
Settakorn astutely explains ldquoThai Massage is like a thousand gentle waves
washing over the bodyrdquo
ITM ndash International Training Massage School
599 Chang Puak Road
Soi 4 Chor
Sriphum
Muang Chiang Mai
50200 THAILAND
Phone +66-5321-8632
Mobile +66-83-763-1002
Email itmitmthaimassagecom
wwwitmthaimassagecom
Krabi dream destination
After a couple of weeks traveling through
Thailand many are looking for the
perfect location to spend their last days
of their vancation Perfection doesnrsquot
exist but dream destination Krabi is gets
close
Located in the south west of Thailand
Krabi is also thanks to its airport an easy
destination to reach
You will notice the friendly atmosphere in this
area of Thailand right away
A couple of must sees like the Emerald Pond
and the Hot Waterfall are definitely worth your
visit Imagine relaxing in a the hot waterfall
under the exotic trees
And of course an island tour is a must when
you are in Krabi
By boat you can visit Por da Koh Hong Koh Kai
and the famous Pranang cave
Khao Yai National Park
Since establishing Thai Guru Magazine
we have been eager to take our
cameras to Khao Yai National Park
Having visited the area previously
I had already enjoyed the beauty
of Khao Yai and the abundance of
wildlife to be seen there and was keen
to share it with the rest of the team
Finally at the end of January we
jumped in the car for the long drive
south from
Chiang Mai
Three hours northeast of Bangkok Khao Yai
is the oldest and third largest national park
in Thailand Grasslands evergreen forests
monsoon forests and rain forests cover more
than 2000 square kilometres of this Unesco
World Heritage site
The park is teeming with wildlife Mammals
including elephant gibbon barking deer and
guar live within the parkrsquos borders The area
is also home to carnivores such as Asian wild
dogs and tigers as well as numerous reptiles and
amphibians including king cobras pythons and
monitor lizards Nearly 400 species of bird can
be found at Khao Yai Other attractions in this
trekkersrsquo paradise include several large waterfalls
The 20 metre Haew Suwat waterfall with is
deep pool was made famous by the film lsquoThe
Beachrsquo
Day 1The road leading to the gates of Khao Yai National Park is notable for its
numerous Italian influenced restaurants hotels and guesthouses A paradise
for pizza and pasta lovers there is even a small Italian-style village with ice-
cream parlours eateries and Italian themed guesthouses Almost immediately
after entering the park we were greeted by the sight of black giant squirrels
and pig tailed macaques clamouring in the canopy all around us Our first stop
was the visitor centre where we picked up a map of the park and other useful
information Outside were several sambar deer picking through restaurant
leftovers The rest of the day was spent exploring spots in which to set up
our cameras the following day We also made the first of several walks to the
observation tower adjacent to Nong Pak Chee reservoir As well as fabulous
views of the park the tower overlooks a saltlick where all manner of wildlife
gathers to suck up vital minerals and nutrients
Day 2Khao Yai is extremely popular with visitors and we could only
book lodging within its borders for the last two days of our trip
This meant an early start so we could get into the park in time to
shoot the sunrise We were the first visitors of the day and drove
to one of the places we had explored the day before We came
across what we thought was one of the many sambar or barking
deer that roam freely around the park We decided to take a
closer look only to find we had stumbled across an Asiatic black
bear half hidden in the morning mist Having spotted us after a
few minutes the handsome creature ambled off into the forest
The dawn had barely broken and our day was already a triumph
The rest of our time was spent following gibbons various varieties
deer and innumerable brightly coloured birds
Day 3Today we were fortunate to be allowed to move
ourselves and our equipment into government-
owned lodgings within the park Our first
mission was to set our cameras up at a place
where we had heard the heavy distinctive
rushing of wings and calls of hornbills (described
by some as sounding like the puffing of a steam
locomotive) the day before
We had expected a long wait but already had
our first shots of this impressive bird in the
can before breakfast We spent many hours
photographing hornbills macaque and other
wildlife
We even stumbled upon a pack of Asian wild
dogs gathered around the carcass of a recently
killed deer We thought our wildlife encounters
for the day were over as we sat down to enjoy
dinner only to be disturbed by scuffling sounds
behind our bungalow The noise was being
made by a pair of porcupines who were not in
the least afraid of us and actually attempted to
chase us away
Day 4The day was spent exploring the trails of Khao Yai and discovering among other wildlife a magnificent
crested serpent eagle As the afternoon drew to a close we decided to take one last trip to the watchtower
From here we witnessed the gathering of a large flock of hornbills We showed some of our footage to a
friendly ranger He was particularly interested in our bear shots We were thrilled to be told that it was very
rare to see a black bear even more so when we were informed that none of the rangers had seen one for
a number of months I decided to leave the tower to find a good place to photograph the sunset Within
a matter of minutes I heard someone scream ldquoBEARrdquo and was back up the stairs in seconds There below
us taking an evening stroll through the grass just metres from where we were perched was another much
younger black bear
Our trip could not have ended better Needless
to say Thai Guru thoroughly recommends a visit
to Khao Yai National Park As already mentioned
the park is popular with both local and foreign
tourists especially on holidays and weekends
We advise that you try to visit during the week
when the park is quieter and the chance of
seeing the amazing wildlife is greater
The park has two camping grounds as well as a
few bungalows that can be booked through the
Department of National Parks Wildlife and Plant
Conservation These need to be booked well
in advance However there are also plenty of
guesthouses and hotels are to be found along
the parkrsquos boundaries
Festival of LanternsThe enchanting atmosphere of Loi Krathong
The weather is cooling down and itrsquos
that time of year again when we all
take to the waterways of Thailand and
give praise to Khongkha the water
Goddess who took care of abundant
rainfall in the past raining season
Donrsquot miss this joyful celebration with
its enchanting atmosphere that brings
one and all in Thailand together
much like Songkran
Thailandrsquos lsquoFestival of Lightsrsquo is celebrated
throughout the kingdom on the night of the
November full moon The end of the rainy
season heralds the coolest months in the
countryrsquos calendar when the river waters are
also supposed to be at their highest
Superstition replaces religion on this night as
thousands flock to the banks of the swollen
rivers and canals to release khratongs floating
tributes to the river spirits and Mother Water ndash
Phra Mae Khongkha In recent years the festival
has been revived in the ancient temples of
Thailandrsquos former capital Sukhothai
Visitors assemble in the Sukhothai Historical
Park with their banana leaf khratongs decorated
with flowers incense sticks and candles to take
part in a ceremony that dates back centuries
Sometimes a coin is added as gift to the spirits
The pretty rafts are then released onto the lake
with a wish
It was once believed that Loi Khratong
was actually created in Sukhothai by Nang
Nopphamas a lady of the court and consort
of the king In fact the celebration was adapted
by Thai Buddhists from a Brahmanical festival
adapted to honour Buddha
The khratong is meant to be a light on the
darkness of the water for Buddha A personrsquos
sins and negative thoughts are also believed to
float away with the colourful little raft Try adding
a lock of your hair for extra luck
Nearly 20 of the Northern provinces will be
showing off a dazzling selection of floats in the
Royal Khratongs Procession as well as holding a
Miss Nopphamat beauty contest
A competition is held for the most beautifully
designed khratong as well as plenty of other
Sukhothai arts and cultural performances
The Light-and-Sound Presentation at Wat
Mahathat explains the history and origins of
Sukhothai and Loi Khratong through dance
music prayer combat displays light effects and
fireworks No Loi Khratong would be complete
without fireworks and thankfully the Thais are
not shy when it comes to blowing things up in
the sky
Tra Kuan pond is the place to be for the floating
of the Royal Khratongs followed by more
firmament-filling pyrotechnics Wat Chana
Songkram is the venue for the Mahachat
sermon Khon Marked Dance and a Thai
classical music performance
Thai Guru decided to travel from Chiang Mai
to Sukhotai for this yearrsquos festivities Although
the heavens decided to open for most of the
celebrations on the final day the rain could not
dampen the celebrations and the spectacle was
jaw dropping
The only thing that was missing due to the rain
was a sky filled with khom loi the sky lanterns
usually released into the firmament in their
hundreds
Although the festivities officially last for the best
part of a week it is the last three days that are
the busiest
Visitors can join in with a range of activities
including fruit carving or just wander around the
historic park listening to live traditional music
watching Thai martial arts or join the parade
of dancers musicians and beauty contestants
all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured
costumes
There are numerous places to stay for the
duration of the festival but it is advisable to
book ahead if you can because this is a very
popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north
from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai
Chiang Mai Temples
A visit to a temple in Thailand is
unavoidable They are everywhere
We at Thai Guru are well aware that
because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can
quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang
Mai With this in mind (and because
the city is overflowing with hundreds
of them) we have chosen a few of
our favourites we hope are slightly
alternative to the ones on the usual
tourist itinerary
Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to
the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its
latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of
the skills of the local silversmiths Like many
of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was
established several centuries ago The ubosoth
or ordination hall is an intricately designed
silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in
the sunlight
The area around Wua Lai has been the home to
silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past
couple of centuries who are famed throughout
the kingdom for creating detailed embossed
relief patterns on the objects they create
something that is immediately evident and
celebrated at Wat Srisuphan
The larger more traditionally decorated red blue
and gold prayer hall also contains impressive
silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos
life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft
museum
Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the
artisans at work and the temple has its own
silver-working school where apprentices are
trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive
Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved
in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-
robed residents of the temple improve their
linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also
available
Unfortunately women are not allowed to
enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this
is explained on a sign outside the wording of
which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in
the monastic boundary many precious things
incantations amulets and other holy objects
were buried over 500 years ago Entering
inside this area may deteriorated the place or
otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most
of the interior can be appreciated from the
doorway
Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous
for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged
Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai
Due to its being less well advertised than its
neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham
is often a more peaceful temple from which
to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang
Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist
Lent when the place was alive with worshippers
Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once
the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic
giants Following a visit from the Buddha the
giants decided to mend their ways stop eating
their neighbours and convert to Buddhism
For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and
offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the
templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally
constructed towards the end of the 7th century
Although the temple fell into disrepair over the
centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered
a chamber containing a number of Buddha
images The discovery led to the revitalisation of
this mountain top temple
The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are
guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured
sword-wielding warriors The courtyard
overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and
bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of
food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the
road leading to the temple
Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-
west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek
and easily accessible by car or taxi
Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai
was being established the name translates
as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably
because it was used to cast Buddha images for
its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The
entrance to the temple is through a small but
intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos
assembly hall is notable because it is one of the
only viharns of its type constructed solely from
teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a
superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock
astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference
to the king who once used the wooden hall as
his palace The gilded image features mythical
creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured
glass
The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite
from the busy road outside Wooden boxes
contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm
leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a
large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors
Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks
like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a
small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less
imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo
temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru
recommends a quick visit if you are passing
Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous
temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi
Luang
The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the
largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it
was damaged either by an earthquake in the
16th century or cannon fire from the guns
of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese
in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO
funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps
up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga
serpents and a group of five elephants (only the
one without a trunk or ears partially survived
whatever caused the structure to collapse the
others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi
was also once home to one of the most revered
religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald
Buddha Although the original now resides in
Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and
once again looks out over the city from a niche
on the east side of the structure
Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and
now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly
hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance
is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a
great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar
housed in a building at the base of the tree
Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although
one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few
alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed
Mae Hong Son
It is said that Mae Hong Son is the
most authentic and mountainous
province of Thailand For Thai Guru a
good reason to explore this province
side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai
province
Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of
Thailand The northern most part of this
province is at a distance of 924 km from
Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province
in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son
borders Myanmar On the south and east side it
borders Tak and Chiang Mai province
We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast
on the 108 road The scenery is woody and
mountainous so far so good And as we leave
the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek
for wildlife and beautiful landscapes
The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage
is that our average speed drops to less than
15 km hour No worries when you do trips
like these the clock stops and the only thing
on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning
landscapes that unfold before your eyes
The main road is well paved But as you might
understand we regularly go off road
This is the best way to come into contact with
locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo
While we are standing somewhere taking in the
beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a
falcon calling
A short walk through the forrest the sound
stops and we decide to sit down for some
water and well earned rest After a short while I
hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo
There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters
above us a white rumped falcon
Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras
it stays there and even when we start making
noises because we want to film it in flight it
takes itrsquos time
Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of
Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They
cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more
Of course they also have their own cattle And
walking through one of their small villages they
are very friendly and hospitable
It has to be said it is never smart to enter
a community or people with your camera
as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask
the people if they mind if you taking their
photograph or want to film their daily life
In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to
the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean
and offers a nice variety food on the terrace
with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city
where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists
Really nice to stroll down the walking street and
find food or a nice souvenir People are very
friendly as usual
From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae
Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an
average speed of 15 km hour
Halfway we jump out of the car into a river
Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to
keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn
but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around
without it
Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome
us and are gladly willing to allow us to make
photographs and film them
In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early
morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises
For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum
After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark
Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon
So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team
ChinatownBangkok
Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese
people in big cities around the world
Manhattan San Francisco Manilla
Paris and Boston have them and
more keep being officially recognised
in their role as historical and touristic
center every year Even places like
Dubai and Las Vegas have modern
day versions of this phenomenon
As soon as you pass under one of the famous
large red entrance arches you arrive in a
complete different world
A world that is paradise for photographers
A couple of the photographers in the Thai
Guru team decided to spend some time in the
Bangkok version of Chinatown
If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for
some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at
Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim
Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat
SLEEPY NANA dream destination
Relatively unknown and uncrowded
Nan has it all This gem of a province
hides an abundance of cultural and
natural attractions ancient temples
pristine forests rivers mountain
peaks but what strikes you most is
its omnipresent feel of an untroubled
authentic way of life
Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings
you this genuine feel in pictures and footage
For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of
Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant
nature and the nature of its people show
Thailand - as is often said before hordes of
tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas
it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan
managed to escape this proces but will it stay
that way Nan shares most of its border with
neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening
of the border and beyond towards China it is to
be expected that it will ultimately become an
important gateway for trade and tourism
Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town
and the countryside will enchant you and the natural
cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy
for at least a couple of days The town along the banks
of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base
to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night
life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous
temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue
influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The
great surroundings can best be explored by renting a
motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo
Much of the province is devoted to farming
Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still
being practised in areas of the province resulting
in a landscape where forests and fields alternate
Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside
of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature
peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich
natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the
province sees far fewer visitors than popular
neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You
can go white water rafting on the Wa River
along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim
National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay
overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes
Touring Nan
Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern
lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities
of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old
salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via
endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges
and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with
orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers
Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready
to be harvested broke through the green hills
giving a golden hue to the landscape
We encountered friendly villagers who worked
their way through the dry fields - meanwhile
singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to
supplement their meager incomes Despite their
hardship they showed us their heartwarming
hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes
with us
This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi
Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and
sparsely populated that we only passed two
cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos
difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand
nowadays
PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river
The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness
begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over
the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above
the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is
broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices
Then the carved image of a Naga becomes
visible above the water line followed by more
than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted
in red and gold colorshellip
During the year the remote provincial town
of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a
year for the annual spectacle of traditional
Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos
water artery The finals are held over two
days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos
banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite
team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in
Thailand yet relatively unknown
The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long
simple shelters where the massive dragon boats
are housed during the year Just once a year
they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos
most important sporting and social event The
event takes place right after the end of the
rainy season around early November when
water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at
their highest The colorful races are part of the
festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the
last day of Buddhist Lent in October
The narrow boats are made from massive
hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters
in length depending how many paddlers they
are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily
distinguishable by their use of bright colors and
mythical designs in the traditional local style
The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of
each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting
only the good ones to participate in their race
How to get there
Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is
connected by plane and by bus to the rest of
the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan
Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice
each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to
Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to
Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on
the service
Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan
(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8
hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)
The contestants of the races are classified into
three categories mdashlarge medium and small
boats Depending on their length each boat can
accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers
sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the
same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously
against the current to the frantic beating of a
drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern
The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying
their attempt to reach the finish line first and
the paddles churning up the river creates a
spectacular atmosphere
Son
g K
ran
in
Ch
ian
g M
ai
Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of
the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down
in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The
days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing
steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the
hot months of April and May The stifling mid-
day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out
unless necessary The buzz around town about
some festival called Song Kran is starting to
increase an underlying excitement rising
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
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infothaigurumagazinecom
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available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
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The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
Once the prayers and blessings have been given up it is time for the students to get themselves ready for
the dayrsquos exertions by stretching To the relaxing sounds of flute music a teacher guides the trainees through
a set of yoga moves On the morning Thai Guru visited there were fifteen students being gently told to
assume the lsquosupermanrsquo and kick their legs into the air for the lsquoreverse bicyclersquo
We were informed that the combination of rhythmic stretches traditionally used by yogis and hermits (who
probably better than anyone know the importance of a good stretch) as well as warming up the studentsrsquo
bodies help the novices to understand better what they will be doing to the bodies of those they are about
to massage
A short break for coffee and bananas in a quiet courtyard watched over by a shrine to Dr Shivago and itrsquos
back to the classroom for a demonstration of the significance of some basic Nuad Boran moves The
students gather round books with detailed diagrams open on their laps to study how to perfect moves like
lsquothe flamingorsquo and lsquothe last tangorsquo among others
The founder of the school Mr Chongkol Setthakorn takes over the class for
the serious task of making sure the students have been paying attention and
arenrsquot in the process of giving each other hernias A quick prayer is said and
the real business of bending stretching and joint crunching begins
The students we met had been training for between three and four weeks
However courses at ITM and indeed at schools across Chiang Mai can be
tailored to fit the requirements of anyone who wishes to get involved in an
activity that gives enormous pleasure to both the giver and receiver - as Mr
Settakorn astutely explains ldquoThai Massage is like a thousand gentle waves
washing over the bodyrdquo
ITM ndash International Training Massage School
599 Chang Puak Road
Soi 4 Chor
Sriphum
Muang Chiang Mai
50200 THAILAND
Phone +66-5321-8632
Mobile +66-83-763-1002
Email itmitmthaimassagecom
wwwitmthaimassagecom
Krabi dream destination
After a couple of weeks traveling through
Thailand many are looking for the
perfect location to spend their last days
of their vancation Perfection doesnrsquot
exist but dream destination Krabi is gets
close
Located in the south west of Thailand
Krabi is also thanks to its airport an easy
destination to reach
You will notice the friendly atmosphere in this
area of Thailand right away
A couple of must sees like the Emerald Pond
and the Hot Waterfall are definitely worth your
visit Imagine relaxing in a the hot waterfall
under the exotic trees
And of course an island tour is a must when
you are in Krabi
By boat you can visit Por da Koh Hong Koh Kai
and the famous Pranang cave
Khao Yai National Park
Since establishing Thai Guru Magazine
we have been eager to take our
cameras to Khao Yai National Park
Having visited the area previously
I had already enjoyed the beauty
of Khao Yai and the abundance of
wildlife to be seen there and was keen
to share it with the rest of the team
Finally at the end of January we
jumped in the car for the long drive
south from
Chiang Mai
Three hours northeast of Bangkok Khao Yai
is the oldest and third largest national park
in Thailand Grasslands evergreen forests
monsoon forests and rain forests cover more
than 2000 square kilometres of this Unesco
World Heritage site
The park is teeming with wildlife Mammals
including elephant gibbon barking deer and
guar live within the parkrsquos borders The area
is also home to carnivores such as Asian wild
dogs and tigers as well as numerous reptiles and
amphibians including king cobras pythons and
monitor lizards Nearly 400 species of bird can
be found at Khao Yai Other attractions in this
trekkersrsquo paradise include several large waterfalls
The 20 metre Haew Suwat waterfall with is
deep pool was made famous by the film lsquoThe
Beachrsquo
Day 1The road leading to the gates of Khao Yai National Park is notable for its
numerous Italian influenced restaurants hotels and guesthouses A paradise
for pizza and pasta lovers there is even a small Italian-style village with ice-
cream parlours eateries and Italian themed guesthouses Almost immediately
after entering the park we were greeted by the sight of black giant squirrels
and pig tailed macaques clamouring in the canopy all around us Our first stop
was the visitor centre where we picked up a map of the park and other useful
information Outside were several sambar deer picking through restaurant
leftovers The rest of the day was spent exploring spots in which to set up
our cameras the following day We also made the first of several walks to the
observation tower adjacent to Nong Pak Chee reservoir As well as fabulous
views of the park the tower overlooks a saltlick where all manner of wildlife
gathers to suck up vital minerals and nutrients
Day 2Khao Yai is extremely popular with visitors and we could only
book lodging within its borders for the last two days of our trip
This meant an early start so we could get into the park in time to
shoot the sunrise We were the first visitors of the day and drove
to one of the places we had explored the day before We came
across what we thought was one of the many sambar or barking
deer that roam freely around the park We decided to take a
closer look only to find we had stumbled across an Asiatic black
bear half hidden in the morning mist Having spotted us after a
few minutes the handsome creature ambled off into the forest
The dawn had barely broken and our day was already a triumph
The rest of our time was spent following gibbons various varieties
deer and innumerable brightly coloured birds
Day 3Today we were fortunate to be allowed to move
ourselves and our equipment into government-
owned lodgings within the park Our first
mission was to set our cameras up at a place
where we had heard the heavy distinctive
rushing of wings and calls of hornbills (described
by some as sounding like the puffing of a steam
locomotive) the day before
We had expected a long wait but already had
our first shots of this impressive bird in the
can before breakfast We spent many hours
photographing hornbills macaque and other
wildlife
We even stumbled upon a pack of Asian wild
dogs gathered around the carcass of a recently
killed deer We thought our wildlife encounters
for the day were over as we sat down to enjoy
dinner only to be disturbed by scuffling sounds
behind our bungalow The noise was being
made by a pair of porcupines who were not in
the least afraid of us and actually attempted to
chase us away
Day 4The day was spent exploring the trails of Khao Yai and discovering among other wildlife a magnificent
crested serpent eagle As the afternoon drew to a close we decided to take one last trip to the watchtower
From here we witnessed the gathering of a large flock of hornbills We showed some of our footage to a
friendly ranger He was particularly interested in our bear shots We were thrilled to be told that it was very
rare to see a black bear even more so when we were informed that none of the rangers had seen one for
a number of months I decided to leave the tower to find a good place to photograph the sunset Within
a matter of minutes I heard someone scream ldquoBEARrdquo and was back up the stairs in seconds There below
us taking an evening stroll through the grass just metres from where we were perched was another much
younger black bear
Our trip could not have ended better Needless
to say Thai Guru thoroughly recommends a visit
to Khao Yai National Park As already mentioned
the park is popular with both local and foreign
tourists especially on holidays and weekends
We advise that you try to visit during the week
when the park is quieter and the chance of
seeing the amazing wildlife is greater
The park has two camping grounds as well as a
few bungalows that can be booked through the
Department of National Parks Wildlife and Plant
Conservation These need to be booked well
in advance However there are also plenty of
guesthouses and hotels are to be found along
the parkrsquos boundaries
Festival of LanternsThe enchanting atmosphere of Loi Krathong
The weather is cooling down and itrsquos
that time of year again when we all
take to the waterways of Thailand and
give praise to Khongkha the water
Goddess who took care of abundant
rainfall in the past raining season
Donrsquot miss this joyful celebration with
its enchanting atmosphere that brings
one and all in Thailand together
much like Songkran
Thailandrsquos lsquoFestival of Lightsrsquo is celebrated
throughout the kingdom on the night of the
November full moon The end of the rainy
season heralds the coolest months in the
countryrsquos calendar when the river waters are
also supposed to be at their highest
Superstition replaces religion on this night as
thousands flock to the banks of the swollen
rivers and canals to release khratongs floating
tributes to the river spirits and Mother Water ndash
Phra Mae Khongkha In recent years the festival
has been revived in the ancient temples of
Thailandrsquos former capital Sukhothai
Visitors assemble in the Sukhothai Historical
Park with their banana leaf khratongs decorated
with flowers incense sticks and candles to take
part in a ceremony that dates back centuries
Sometimes a coin is added as gift to the spirits
The pretty rafts are then released onto the lake
with a wish
It was once believed that Loi Khratong
was actually created in Sukhothai by Nang
Nopphamas a lady of the court and consort
of the king In fact the celebration was adapted
by Thai Buddhists from a Brahmanical festival
adapted to honour Buddha
The khratong is meant to be a light on the
darkness of the water for Buddha A personrsquos
sins and negative thoughts are also believed to
float away with the colourful little raft Try adding
a lock of your hair for extra luck
Nearly 20 of the Northern provinces will be
showing off a dazzling selection of floats in the
Royal Khratongs Procession as well as holding a
Miss Nopphamat beauty contest
A competition is held for the most beautifully
designed khratong as well as plenty of other
Sukhothai arts and cultural performances
The Light-and-Sound Presentation at Wat
Mahathat explains the history and origins of
Sukhothai and Loi Khratong through dance
music prayer combat displays light effects and
fireworks No Loi Khratong would be complete
without fireworks and thankfully the Thais are
not shy when it comes to blowing things up in
the sky
Tra Kuan pond is the place to be for the floating
of the Royal Khratongs followed by more
firmament-filling pyrotechnics Wat Chana
Songkram is the venue for the Mahachat
sermon Khon Marked Dance and a Thai
classical music performance
Thai Guru decided to travel from Chiang Mai
to Sukhotai for this yearrsquos festivities Although
the heavens decided to open for most of the
celebrations on the final day the rain could not
dampen the celebrations and the spectacle was
jaw dropping
The only thing that was missing due to the rain
was a sky filled with khom loi the sky lanterns
usually released into the firmament in their
hundreds
Although the festivities officially last for the best
part of a week it is the last three days that are
the busiest
Visitors can join in with a range of activities
including fruit carving or just wander around the
historic park listening to live traditional music
watching Thai martial arts or join the parade
of dancers musicians and beauty contestants
all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured
costumes
There are numerous places to stay for the
duration of the festival but it is advisable to
book ahead if you can because this is a very
popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north
from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai
Chiang Mai Temples
A visit to a temple in Thailand is
unavoidable They are everywhere
We at Thai Guru are well aware that
because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can
quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang
Mai With this in mind (and because
the city is overflowing with hundreds
of them) we have chosen a few of
our favourites we hope are slightly
alternative to the ones on the usual
tourist itinerary
Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to
the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its
latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of
the skills of the local silversmiths Like many
of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was
established several centuries ago The ubosoth
or ordination hall is an intricately designed
silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in
the sunlight
The area around Wua Lai has been the home to
silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past
couple of centuries who are famed throughout
the kingdom for creating detailed embossed
relief patterns on the objects they create
something that is immediately evident and
celebrated at Wat Srisuphan
The larger more traditionally decorated red blue
and gold prayer hall also contains impressive
silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos
life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft
museum
Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the
artisans at work and the temple has its own
silver-working school where apprentices are
trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive
Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved
in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-
robed residents of the temple improve their
linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also
available
Unfortunately women are not allowed to
enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this
is explained on a sign outside the wording of
which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in
the monastic boundary many precious things
incantations amulets and other holy objects
were buried over 500 years ago Entering
inside this area may deteriorated the place or
otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most
of the interior can be appreciated from the
doorway
Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous
for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged
Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai
Due to its being less well advertised than its
neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham
is often a more peaceful temple from which
to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang
Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist
Lent when the place was alive with worshippers
Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once
the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic
giants Following a visit from the Buddha the
giants decided to mend their ways stop eating
their neighbours and convert to Buddhism
For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and
offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the
templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally
constructed towards the end of the 7th century
Although the temple fell into disrepair over the
centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered
a chamber containing a number of Buddha
images The discovery led to the revitalisation of
this mountain top temple
The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are
guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured
sword-wielding warriors The courtyard
overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and
bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of
food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the
road leading to the temple
Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-
west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek
and easily accessible by car or taxi
Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai
was being established the name translates
as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably
because it was used to cast Buddha images for
its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The
entrance to the temple is through a small but
intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos
assembly hall is notable because it is one of the
only viharns of its type constructed solely from
teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a
superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock
astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference
to the king who once used the wooden hall as
his palace The gilded image features mythical
creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured
glass
The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite
from the busy road outside Wooden boxes
contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm
leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a
large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors
Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks
like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a
small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less
imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo
temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru
recommends a quick visit if you are passing
Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous
temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi
Luang
The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the
largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it
was damaged either by an earthquake in the
16th century or cannon fire from the guns
of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese
in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO
funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps
up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga
serpents and a group of five elephants (only the
one without a trunk or ears partially survived
whatever caused the structure to collapse the
others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi
was also once home to one of the most revered
religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald
Buddha Although the original now resides in
Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and
once again looks out over the city from a niche
on the east side of the structure
Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and
now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly
hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance
is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a
great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar
housed in a building at the base of the tree
Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although
one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few
alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed
Mae Hong Son
It is said that Mae Hong Son is the
most authentic and mountainous
province of Thailand For Thai Guru a
good reason to explore this province
side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai
province
Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of
Thailand The northern most part of this
province is at a distance of 924 km from
Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province
in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son
borders Myanmar On the south and east side it
borders Tak and Chiang Mai province
We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast
on the 108 road The scenery is woody and
mountainous so far so good And as we leave
the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek
for wildlife and beautiful landscapes
The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage
is that our average speed drops to less than
15 km hour No worries when you do trips
like these the clock stops and the only thing
on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning
landscapes that unfold before your eyes
The main road is well paved But as you might
understand we regularly go off road
This is the best way to come into contact with
locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo
While we are standing somewhere taking in the
beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a
falcon calling
A short walk through the forrest the sound
stops and we decide to sit down for some
water and well earned rest After a short while I
hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo
There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters
above us a white rumped falcon
Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras
it stays there and even when we start making
noises because we want to film it in flight it
takes itrsquos time
Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of
Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They
cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more
Of course they also have their own cattle And
walking through one of their small villages they
are very friendly and hospitable
It has to be said it is never smart to enter
a community or people with your camera
as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask
the people if they mind if you taking their
photograph or want to film their daily life
In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to
the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean
and offers a nice variety food on the terrace
with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city
where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists
Really nice to stroll down the walking street and
find food or a nice souvenir People are very
friendly as usual
From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae
Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an
average speed of 15 km hour
Halfway we jump out of the car into a river
Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to
keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn
but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around
without it
Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome
us and are gladly willing to allow us to make
photographs and film them
In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early
morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises
For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum
After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark
Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon
So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team
ChinatownBangkok
Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese
people in big cities around the world
Manhattan San Francisco Manilla
Paris and Boston have them and
more keep being officially recognised
in their role as historical and touristic
center every year Even places like
Dubai and Las Vegas have modern
day versions of this phenomenon
As soon as you pass under one of the famous
large red entrance arches you arrive in a
complete different world
A world that is paradise for photographers
A couple of the photographers in the Thai
Guru team decided to spend some time in the
Bangkok version of Chinatown
If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for
some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at
Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim
Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat
SLEEPY NANA dream destination
Relatively unknown and uncrowded
Nan has it all This gem of a province
hides an abundance of cultural and
natural attractions ancient temples
pristine forests rivers mountain
peaks but what strikes you most is
its omnipresent feel of an untroubled
authentic way of life
Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings
you this genuine feel in pictures and footage
For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of
Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant
nature and the nature of its people show
Thailand - as is often said before hordes of
tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas
it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan
managed to escape this proces but will it stay
that way Nan shares most of its border with
neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening
of the border and beyond towards China it is to
be expected that it will ultimately become an
important gateway for trade and tourism
Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town
and the countryside will enchant you and the natural
cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy
for at least a couple of days The town along the banks
of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base
to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night
life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous
temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue
influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The
great surroundings can best be explored by renting a
motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo
Much of the province is devoted to farming
Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still
being practised in areas of the province resulting
in a landscape where forests and fields alternate
Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside
of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature
peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich
natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the
province sees far fewer visitors than popular
neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You
can go white water rafting on the Wa River
along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim
National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay
overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes
Touring Nan
Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern
lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities
of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old
salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via
endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges
and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with
orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers
Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready
to be harvested broke through the green hills
giving a golden hue to the landscape
We encountered friendly villagers who worked
their way through the dry fields - meanwhile
singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to
supplement their meager incomes Despite their
hardship they showed us their heartwarming
hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes
with us
This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi
Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and
sparsely populated that we only passed two
cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos
difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand
nowadays
PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river
The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness
begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over
the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above
the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is
broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices
Then the carved image of a Naga becomes
visible above the water line followed by more
than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted
in red and gold colorshellip
During the year the remote provincial town
of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a
year for the annual spectacle of traditional
Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos
water artery The finals are held over two
days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos
banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite
team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in
Thailand yet relatively unknown
The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long
simple shelters where the massive dragon boats
are housed during the year Just once a year
they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos
most important sporting and social event The
event takes place right after the end of the
rainy season around early November when
water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at
their highest The colorful races are part of the
festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the
last day of Buddhist Lent in October
The narrow boats are made from massive
hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters
in length depending how many paddlers they
are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily
distinguishable by their use of bright colors and
mythical designs in the traditional local style
The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of
each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting
only the good ones to participate in their race
How to get there
Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is
connected by plane and by bus to the rest of
the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan
Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice
each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to
Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to
Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on
the service
Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan
(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8
hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)
The contestants of the races are classified into
three categories mdashlarge medium and small
boats Depending on their length each boat can
accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers
sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the
same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously
against the current to the frantic beating of a
drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern
The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying
their attempt to reach the finish line first and
the paddles churning up the river creates a
spectacular atmosphere
Son
g K
ran
in
Ch
ian
g M
ai
Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of
the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down
in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The
days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing
steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the
hot months of April and May The stifling mid-
day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out
unless necessary The buzz around town about
some festival called Song Kran is starting to
increase an underlying excitement rising
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
contact us
infothaigurumagazinecom
All videos in this magazine are
available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
The founder of the school Mr Chongkol Setthakorn takes over the class for
the serious task of making sure the students have been paying attention and
arenrsquot in the process of giving each other hernias A quick prayer is said and
the real business of bending stretching and joint crunching begins
The students we met had been training for between three and four weeks
However courses at ITM and indeed at schools across Chiang Mai can be
tailored to fit the requirements of anyone who wishes to get involved in an
activity that gives enormous pleasure to both the giver and receiver - as Mr
Settakorn astutely explains ldquoThai Massage is like a thousand gentle waves
washing over the bodyrdquo
ITM ndash International Training Massage School
599 Chang Puak Road
Soi 4 Chor
Sriphum
Muang Chiang Mai
50200 THAILAND
Phone +66-5321-8632
Mobile +66-83-763-1002
Email itmitmthaimassagecom
wwwitmthaimassagecom
Krabi dream destination
After a couple of weeks traveling through
Thailand many are looking for the
perfect location to spend their last days
of their vancation Perfection doesnrsquot
exist but dream destination Krabi is gets
close
Located in the south west of Thailand
Krabi is also thanks to its airport an easy
destination to reach
You will notice the friendly atmosphere in this
area of Thailand right away
A couple of must sees like the Emerald Pond
and the Hot Waterfall are definitely worth your
visit Imagine relaxing in a the hot waterfall
under the exotic trees
And of course an island tour is a must when
you are in Krabi
By boat you can visit Por da Koh Hong Koh Kai
and the famous Pranang cave
Khao Yai National Park
Since establishing Thai Guru Magazine
we have been eager to take our
cameras to Khao Yai National Park
Having visited the area previously
I had already enjoyed the beauty
of Khao Yai and the abundance of
wildlife to be seen there and was keen
to share it with the rest of the team
Finally at the end of January we
jumped in the car for the long drive
south from
Chiang Mai
Three hours northeast of Bangkok Khao Yai
is the oldest and third largest national park
in Thailand Grasslands evergreen forests
monsoon forests and rain forests cover more
than 2000 square kilometres of this Unesco
World Heritage site
The park is teeming with wildlife Mammals
including elephant gibbon barking deer and
guar live within the parkrsquos borders The area
is also home to carnivores such as Asian wild
dogs and tigers as well as numerous reptiles and
amphibians including king cobras pythons and
monitor lizards Nearly 400 species of bird can
be found at Khao Yai Other attractions in this
trekkersrsquo paradise include several large waterfalls
The 20 metre Haew Suwat waterfall with is
deep pool was made famous by the film lsquoThe
Beachrsquo
Day 1The road leading to the gates of Khao Yai National Park is notable for its
numerous Italian influenced restaurants hotels and guesthouses A paradise
for pizza and pasta lovers there is even a small Italian-style village with ice-
cream parlours eateries and Italian themed guesthouses Almost immediately
after entering the park we were greeted by the sight of black giant squirrels
and pig tailed macaques clamouring in the canopy all around us Our first stop
was the visitor centre where we picked up a map of the park and other useful
information Outside were several sambar deer picking through restaurant
leftovers The rest of the day was spent exploring spots in which to set up
our cameras the following day We also made the first of several walks to the
observation tower adjacent to Nong Pak Chee reservoir As well as fabulous
views of the park the tower overlooks a saltlick where all manner of wildlife
gathers to suck up vital minerals and nutrients
Day 2Khao Yai is extremely popular with visitors and we could only
book lodging within its borders for the last two days of our trip
This meant an early start so we could get into the park in time to
shoot the sunrise We were the first visitors of the day and drove
to one of the places we had explored the day before We came
across what we thought was one of the many sambar or barking
deer that roam freely around the park We decided to take a
closer look only to find we had stumbled across an Asiatic black
bear half hidden in the morning mist Having spotted us after a
few minutes the handsome creature ambled off into the forest
The dawn had barely broken and our day was already a triumph
The rest of our time was spent following gibbons various varieties
deer and innumerable brightly coloured birds
Day 3Today we were fortunate to be allowed to move
ourselves and our equipment into government-
owned lodgings within the park Our first
mission was to set our cameras up at a place
where we had heard the heavy distinctive
rushing of wings and calls of hornbills (described
by some as sounding like the puffing of a steam
locomotive) the day before
We had expected a long wait but already had
our first shots of this impressive bird in the
can before breakfast We spent many hours
photographing hornbills macaque and other
wildlife
We even stumbled upon a pack of Asian wild
dogs gathered around the carcass of a recently
killed deer We thought our wildlife encounters
for the day were over as we sat down to enjoy
dinner only to be disturbed by scuffling sounds
behind our bungalow The noise was being
made by a pair of porcupines who were not in
the least afraid of us and actually attempted to
chase us away
Day 4The day was spent exploring the trails of Khao Yai and discovering among other wildlife a magnificent
crested serpent eagle As the afternoon drew to a close we decided to take one last trip to the watchtower
From here we witnessed the gathering of a large flock of hornbills We showed some of our footage to a
friendly ranger He was particularly interested in our bear shots We were thrilled to be told that it was very
rare to see a black bear even more so when we were informed that none of the rangers had seen one for
a number of months I decided to leave the tower to find a good place to photograph the sunset Within
a matter of minutes I heard someone scream ldquoBEARrdquo and was back up the stairs in seconds There below
us taking an evening stroll through the grass just metres from where we were perched was another much
younger black bear
Our trip could not have ended better Needless
to say Thai Guru thoroughly recommends a visit
to Khao Yai National Park As already mentioned
the park is popular with both local and foreign
tourists especially on holidays and weekends
We advise that you try to visit during the week
when the park is quieter and the chance of
seeing the amazing wildlife is greater
The park has two camping grounds as well as a
few bungalows that can be booked through the
Department of National Parks Wildlife and Plant
Conservation These need to be booked well
in advance However there are also plenty of
guesthouses and hotels are to be found along
the parkrsquos boundaries
Festival of LanternsThe enchanting atmosphere of Loi Krathong
The weather is cooling down and itrsquos
that time of year again when we all
take to the waterways of Thailand and
give praise to Khongkha the water
Goddess who took care of abundant
rainfall in the past raining season
Donrsquot miss this joyful celebration with
its enchanting atmosphere that brings
one and all in Thailand together
much like Songkran
Thailandrsquos lsquoFestival of Lightsrsquo is celebrated
throughout the kingdom on the night of the
November full moon The end of the rainy
season heralds the coolest months in the
countryrsquos calendar when the river waters are
also supposed to be at their highest
Superstition replaces religion on this night as
thousands flock to the banks of the swollen
rivers and canals to release khratongs floating
tributes to the river spirits and Mother Water ndash
Phra Mae Khongkha In recent years the festival
has been revived in the ancient temples of
Thailandrsquos former capital Sukhothai
Visitors assemble in the Sukhothai Historical
Park with their banana leaf khratongs decorated
with flowers incense sticks and candles to take
part in a ceremony that dates back centuries
Sometimes a coin is added as gift to the spirits
The pretty rafts are then released onto the lake
with a wish
It was once believed that Loi Khratong
was actually created in Sukhothai by Nang
Nopphamas a lady of the court and consort
of the king In fact the celebration was adapted
by Thai Buddhists from a Brahmanical festival
adapted to honour Buddha
The khratong is meant to be a light on the
darkness of the water for Buddha A personrsquos
sins and negative thoughts are also believed to
float away with the colourful little raft Try adding
a lock of your hair for extra luck
Nearly 20 of the Northern provinces will be
showing off a dazzling selection of floats in the
Royal Khratongs Procession as well as holding a
Miss Nopphamat beauty contest
A competition is held for the most beautifully
designed khratong as well as plenty of other
Sukhothai arts and cultural performances
The Light-and-Sound Presentation at Wat
Mahathat explains the history and origins of
Sukhothai and Loi Khratong through dance
music prayer combat displays light effects and
fireworks No Loi Khratong would be complete
without fireworks and thankfully the Thais are
not shy when it comes to blowing things up in
the sky
Tra Kuan pond is the place to be for the floating
of the Royal Khratongs followed by more
firmament-filling pyrotechnics Wat Chana
Songkram is the venue for the Mahachat
sermon Khon Marked Dance and a Thai
classical music performance
Thai Guru decided to travel from Chiang Mai
to Sukhotai for this yearrsquos festivities Although
the heavens decided to open for most of the
celebrations on the final day the rain could not
dampen the celebrations and the spectacle was
jaw dropping
The only thing that was missing due to the rain
was a sky filled with khom loi the sky lanterns
usually released into the firmament in their
hundreds
Although the festivities officially last for the best
part of a week it is the last three days that are
the busiest
Visitors can join in with a range of activities
including fruit carving or just wander around the
historic park listening to live traditional music
watching Thai martial arts or join the parade
of dancers musicians and beauty contestants
all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured
costumes
There are numerous places to stay for the
duration of the festival but it is advisable to
book ahead if you can because this is a very
popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north
from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai
Chiang Mai Temples
A visit to a temple in Thailand is
unavoidable They are everywhere
We at Thai Guru are well aware that
because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can
quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang
Mai With this in mind (and because
the city is overflowing with hundreds
of them) we have chosen a few of
our favourites we hope are slightly
alternative to the ones on the usual
tourist itinerary
Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to
the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its
latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of
the skills of the local silversmiths Like many
of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was
established several centuries ago The ubosoth
or ordination hall is an intricately designed
silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in
the sunlight
The area around Wua Lai has been the home to
silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past
couple of centuries who are famed throughout
the kingdom for creating detailed embossed
relief patterns on the objects they create
something that is immediately evident and
celebrated at Wat Srisuphan
The larger more traditionally decorated red blue
and gold prayer hall also contains impressive
silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos
life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft
museum
Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the
artisans at work and the temple has its own
silver-working school where apprentices are
trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive
Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved
in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-
robed residents of the temple improve their
linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also
available
Unfortunately women are not allowed to
enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this
is explained on a sign outside the wording of
which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in
the monastic boundary many precious things
incantations amulets and other holy objects
were buried over 500 years ago Entering
inside this area may deteriorated the place or
otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most
of the interior can be appreciated from the
doorway
Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous
for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged
Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai
Due to its being less well advertised than its
neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham
is often a more peaceful temple from which
to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang
Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist
Lent when the place was alive with worshippers
Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once
the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic
giants Following a visit from the Buddha the
giants decided to mend their ways stop eating
their neighbours and convert to Buddhism
For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and
offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the
templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally
constructed towards the end of the 7th century
Although the temple fell into disrepair over the
centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered
a chamber containing a number of Buddha
images The discovery led to the revitalisation of
this mountain top temple
The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are
guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured
sword-wielding warriors The courtyard
overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and
bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of
food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the
road leading to the temple
Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-
west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek
and easily accessible by car or taxi
Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai
was being established the name translates
as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably
because it was used to cast Buddha images for
its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The
entrance to the temple is through a small but
intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos
assembly hall is notable because it is one of the
only viharns of its type constructed solely from
teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a
superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock
astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference
to the king who once used the wooden hall as
his palace The gilded image features mythical
creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured
glass
The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite
from the busy road outside Wooden boxes
contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm
leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a
large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors
Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks
like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a
small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less
imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo
temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru
recommends a quick visit if you are passing
Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous
temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi
Luang
The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the
largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it
was damaged either by an earthquake in the
16th century or cannon fire from the guns
of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese
in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO
funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps
up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga
serpents and a group of five elephants (only the
one without a trunk or ears partially survived
whatever caused the structure to collapse the
others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi
was also once home to one of the most revered
religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald
Buddha Although the original now resides in
Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and
once again looks out over the city from a niche
on the east side of the structure
Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and
now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly
hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance
is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a
great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar
housed in a building at the base of the tree
Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although
one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few
alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed
Mae Hong Son
It is said that Mae Hong Son is the
most authentic and mountainous
province of Thailand For Thai Guru a
good reason to explore this province
side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai
province
Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of
Thailand The northern most part of this
province is at a distance of 924 km from
Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province
in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son
borders Myanmar On the south and east side it
borders Tak and Chiang Mai province
We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast
on the 108 road The scenery is woody and
mountainous so far so good And as we leave
the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek
for wildlife and beautiful landscapes
The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage
is that our average speed drops to less than
15 km hour No worries when you do trips
like these the clock stops and the only thing
on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning
landscapes that unfold before your eyes
The main road is well paved But as you might
understand we regularly go off road
This is the best way to come into contact with
locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo
While we are standing somewhere taking in the
beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a
falcon calling
A short walk through the forrest the sound
stops and we decide to sit down for some
water and well earned rest After a short while I
hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo
There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters
above us a white rumped falcon
Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras
it stays there and even when we start making
noises because we want to film it in flight it
takes itrsquos time
Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of
Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They
cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more
Of course they also have their own cattle And
walking through one of their small villages they
are very friendly and hospitable
It has to be said it is never smart to enter
a community or people with your camera
as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask
the people if they mind if you taking their
photograph or want to film their daily life
In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to
the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean
and offers a nice variety food on the terrace
with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city
where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists
Really nice to stroll down the walking street and
find food or a nice souvenir People are very
friendly as usual
From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae
Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an
average speed of 15 km hour
Halfway we jump out of the car into a river
Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to
keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn
but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around
without it
Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome
us and are gladly willing to allow us to make
photographs and film them
In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early
morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises
For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum
After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark
Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon
So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team
ChinatownBangkok
Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese
people in big cities around the world
Manhattan San Francisco Manilla
Paris and Boston have them and
more keep being officially recognised
in their role as historical and touristic
center every year Even places like
Dubai and Las Vegas have modern
day versions of this phenomenon
As soon as you pass under one of the famous
large red entrance arches you arrive in a
complete different world
A world that is paradise for photographers
A couple of the photographers in the Thai
Guru team decided to spend some time in the
Bangkok version of Chinatown
If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for
some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at
Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim
Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat
SLEEPY NANA dream destination
Relatively unknown and uncrowded
Nan has it all This gem of a province
hides an abundance of cultural and
natural attractions ancient temples
pristine forests rivers mountain
peaks but what strikes you most is
its omnipresent feel of an untroubled
authentic way of life
Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings
you this genuine feel in pictures and footage
For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of
Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant
nature and the nature of its people show
Thailand - as is often said before hordes of
tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas
it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan
managed to escape this proces but will it stay
that way Nan shares most of its border with
neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening
of the border and beyond towards China it is to
be expected that it will ultimately become an
important gateway for trade and tourism
Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town
and the countryside will enchant you and the natural
cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy
for at least a couple of days The town along the banks
of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base
to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night
life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous
temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue
influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The
great surroundings can best be explored by renting a
motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo
Much of the province is devoted to farming
Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still
being practised in areas of the province resulting
in a landscape where forests and fields alternate
Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside
of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature
peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich
natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the
province sees far fewer visitors than popular
neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You
can go white water rafting on the Wa River
along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim
National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay
overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes
Touring Nan
Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern
lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities
of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old
salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via
endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges
and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with
orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers
Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready
to be harvested broke through the green hills
giving a golden hue to the landscape
We encountered friendly villagers who worked
their way through the dry fields - meanwhile
singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to
supplement their meager incomes Despite their
hardship they showed us their heartwarming
hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes
with us
This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi
Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and
sparsely populated that we only passed two
cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos
difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand
nowadays
PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river
The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness
begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over
the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above
the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is
broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices
Then the carved image of a Naga becomes
visible above the water line followed by more
than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted
in red and gold colorshellip
During the year the remote provincial town
of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a
year for the annual spectacle of traditional
Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos
water artery The finals are held over two
days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos
banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite
team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in
Thailand yet relatively unknown
The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long
simple shelters where the massive dragon boats
are housed during the year Just once a year
they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos
most important sporting and social event The
event takes place right after the end of the
rainy season around early November when
water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at
their highest The colorful races are part of the
festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the
last day of Buddhist Lent in October
The narrow boats are made from massive
hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters
in length depending how many paddlers they
are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily
distinguishable by their use of bright colors and
mythical designs in the traditional local style
The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of
each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting
only the good ones to participate in their race
How to get there
Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is
connected by plane and by bus to the rest of
the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan
Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice
each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to
Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to
Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on
the service
Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan
(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8
hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)
The contestants of the races are classified into
three categories mdashlarge medium and small
boats Depending on their length each boat can
accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers
sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the
same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously
against the current to the frantic beating of a
drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern
The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying
their attempt to reach the finish line first and
the paddles churning up the river creates a
spectacular atmosphere
Son
g K
ran
in
Ch
ian
g M
ai
Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of
the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down
in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The
days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing
steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the
hot months of April and May The stifling mid-
day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out
unless necessary The buzz around town about
some festival called Song Kran is starting to
increase an underlying excitement rising
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
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infothaigurumagazinecom
All videos in this magazine are
available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
Krabi dream destination
After a couple of weeks traveling through
Thailand many are looking for the
perfect location to spend their last days
of their vancation Perfection doesnrsquot
exist but dream destination Krabi is gets
close
Located in the south west of Thailand
Krabi is also thanks to its airport an easy
destination to reach
You will notice the friendly atmosphere in this
area of Thailand right away
A couple of must sees like the Emerald Pond
and the Hot Waterfall are definitely worth your
visit Imagine relaxing in a the hot waterfall
under the exotic trees
And of course an island tour is a must when
you are in Krabi
By boat you can visit Por da Koh Hong Koh Kai
and the famous Pranang cave
Khao Yai National Park
Since establishing Thai Guru Magazine
we have been eager to take our
cameras to Khao Yai National Park
Having visited the area previously
I had already enjoyed the beauty
of Khao Yai and the abundance of
wildlife to be seen there and was keen
to share it with the rest of the team
Finally at the end of January we
jumped in the car for the long drive
south from
Chiang Mai
Three hours northeast of Bangkok Khao Yai
is the oldest and third largest national park
in Thailand Grasslands evergreen forests
monsoon forests and rain forests cover more
than 2000 square kilometres of this Unesco
World Heritage site
The park is teeming with wildlife Mammals
including elephant gibbon barking deer and
guar live within the parkrsquos borders The area
is also home to carnivores such as Asian wild
dogs and tigers as well as numerous reptiles and
amphibians including king cobras pythons and
monitor lizards Nearly 400 species of bird can
be found at Khao Yai Other attractions in this
trekkersrsquo paradise include several large waterfalls
The 20 metre Haew Suwat waterfall with is
deep pool was made famous by the film lsquoThe
Beachrsquo
Day 1The road leading to the gates of Khao Yai National Park is notable for its
numerous Italian influenced restaurants hotels and guesthouses A paradise
for pizza and pasta lovers there is even a small Italian-style village with ice-
cream parlours eateries and Italian themed guesthouses Almost immediately
after entering the park we were greeted by the sight of black giant squirrels
and pig tailed macaques clamouring in the canopy all around us Our first stop
was the visitor centre where we picked up a map of the park and other useful
information Outside were several sambar deer picking through restaurant
leftovers The rest of the day was spent exploring spots in which to set up
our cameras the following day We also made the first of several walks to the
observation tower adjacent to Nong Pak Chee reservoir As well as fabulous
views of the park the tower overlooks a saltlick where all manner of wildlife
gathers to suck up vital minerals and nutrients
Day 2Khao Yai is extremely popular with visitors and we could only
book lodging within its borders for the last two days of our trip
This meant an early start so we could get into the park in time to
shoot the sunrise We were the first visitors of the day and drove
to one of the places we had explored the day before We came
across what we thought was one of the many sambar or barking
deer that roam freely around the park We decided to take a
closer look only to find we had stumbled across an Asiatic black
bear half hidden in the morning mist Having spotted us after a
few minutes the handsome creature ambled off into the forest
The dawn had barely broken and our day was already a triumph
The rest of our time was spent following gibbons various varieties
deer and innumerable brightly coloured birds
Day 3Today we were fortunate to be allowed to move
ourselves and our equipment into government-
owned lodgings within the park Our first
mission was to set our cameras up at a place
where we had heard the heavy distinctive
rushing of wings and calls of hornbills (described
by some as sounding like the puffing of a steam
locomotive) the day before
We had expected a long wait but already had
our first shots of this impressive bird in the
can before breakfast We spent many hours
photographing hornbills macaque and other
wildlife
We even stumbled upon a pack of Asian wild
dogs gathered around the carcass of a recently
killed deer We thought our wildlife encounters
for the day were over as we sat down to enjoy
dinner only to be disturbed by scuffling sounds
behind our bungalow The noise was being
made by a pair of porcupines who were not in
the least afraid of us and actually attempted to
chase us away
Day 4The day was spent exploring the trails of Khao Yai and discovering among other wildlife a magnificent
crested serpent eagle As the afternoon drew to a close we decided to take one last trip to the watchtower
From here we witnessed the gathering of a large flock of hornbills We showed some of our footage to a
friendly ranger He was particularly interested in our bear shots We were thrilled to be told that it was very
rare to see a black bear even more so when we were informed that none of the rangers had seen one for
a number of months I decided to leave the tower to find a good place to photograph the sunset Within
a matter of minutes I heard someone scream ldquoBEARrdquo and was back up the stairs in seconds There below
us taking an evening stroll through the grass just metres from where we were perched was another much
younger black bear
Our trip could not have ended better Needless
to say Thai Guru thoroughly recommends a visit
to Khao Yai National Park As already mentioned
the park is popular with both local and foreign
tourists especially on holidays and weekends
We advise that you try to visit during the week
when the park is quieter and the chance of
seeing the amazing wildlife is greater
The park has two camping grounds as well as a
few bungalows that can be booked through the
Department of National Parks Wildlife and Plant
Conservation These need to be booked well
in advance However there are also plenty of
guesthouses and hotels are to be found along
the parkrsquos boundaries
Festival of LanternsThe enchanting atmosphere of Loi Krathong
The weather is cooling down and itrsquos
that time of year again when we all
take to the waterways of Thailand and
give praise to Khongkha the water
Goddess who took care of abundant
rainfall in the past raining season
Donrsquot miss this joyful celebration with
its enchanting atmosphere that brings
one and all in Thailand together
much like Songkran
Thailandrsquos lsquoFestival of Lightsrsquo is celebrated
throughout the kingdom on the night of the
November full moon The end of the rainy
season heralds the coolest months in the
countryrsquos calendar when the river waters are
also supposed to be at their highest
Superstition replaces religion on this night as
thousands flock to the banks of the swollen
rivers and canals to release khratongs floating
tributes to the river spirits and Mother Water ndash
Phra Mae Khongkha In recent years the festival
has been revived in the ancient temples of
Thailandrsquos former capital Sukhothai
Visitors assemble in the Sukhothai Historical
Park with their banana leaf khratongs decorated
with flowers incense sticks and candles to take
part in a ceremony that dates back centuries
Sometimes a coin is added as gift to the spirits
The pretty rafts are then released onto the lake
with a wish
It was once believed that Loi Khratong
was actually created in Sukhothai by Nang
Nopphamas a lady of the court and consort
of the king In fact the celebration was adapted
by Thai Buddhists from a Brahmanical festival
adapted to honour Buddha
The khratong is meant to be a light on the
darkness of the water for Buddha A personrsquos
sins and negative thoughts are also believed to
float away with the colourful little raft Try adding
a lock of your hair for extra luck
Nearly 20 of the Northern provinces will be
showing off a dazzling selection of floats in the
Royal Khratongs Procession as well as holding a
Miss Nopphamat beauty contest
A competition is held for the most beautifully
designed khratong as well as plenty of other
Sukhothai arts and cultural performances
The Light-and-Sound Presentation at Wat
Mahathat explains the history and origins of
Sukhothai and Loi Khratong through dance
music prayer combat displays light effects and
fireworks No Loi Khratong would be complete
without fireworks and thankfully the Thais are
not shy when it comes to blowing things up in
the sky
Tra Kuan pond is the place to be for the floating
of the Royal Khratongs followed by more
firmament-filling pyrotechnics Wat Chana
Songkram is the venue for the Mahachat
sermon Khon Marked Dance and a Thai
classical music performance
Thai Guru decided to travel from Chiang Mai
to Sukhotai for this yearrsquos festivities Although
the heavens decided to open for most of the
celebrations on the final day the rain could not
dampen the celebrations and the spectacle was
jaw dropping
The only thing that was missing due to the rain
was a sky filled with khom loi the sky lanterns
usually released into the firmament in their
hundreds
Although the festivities officially last for the best
part of a week it is the last three days that are
the busiest
Visitors can join in with a range of activities
including fruit carving or just wander around the
historic park listening to live traditional music
watching Thai martial arts or join the parade
of dancers musicians and beauty contestants
all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured
costumes
There are numerous places to stay for the
duration of the festival but it is advisable to
book ahead if you can because this is a very
popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north
from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai
Chiang Mai Temples
A visit to a temple in Thailand is
unavoidable They are everywhere
We at Thai Guru are well aware that
because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can
quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang
Mai With this in mind (and because
the city is overflowing with hundreds
of them) we have chosen a few of
our favourites we hope are slightly
alternative to the ones on the usual
tourist itinerary
Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to
the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its
latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of
the skills of the local silversmiths Like many
of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was
established several centuries ago The ubosoth
or ordination hall is an intricately designed
silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in
the sunlight
The area around Wua Lai has been the home to
silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past
couple of centuries who are famed throughout
the kingdom for creating detailed embossed
relief patterns on the objects they create
something that is immediately evident and
celebrated at Wat Srisuphan
The larger more traditionally decorated red blue
and gold prayer hall also contains impressive
silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos
life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft
museum
Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the
artisans at work and the temple has its own
silver-working school where apprentices are
trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive
Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved
in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-
robed residents of the temple improve their
linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also
available
Unfortunately women are not allowed to
enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this
is explained on a sign outside the wording of
which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in
the monastic boundary many precious things
incantations amulets and other holy objects
were buried over 500 years ago Entering
inside this area may deteriorated the place or
otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most
of the interior can be appreciated from the
doorway
Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous
for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged
Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai
Due to its being less well advertised than its
neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham
is often a more peaceful temple from which
to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang
Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist
Lent when the place was alive with worshippers
Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once
the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic
giants Following a visit from the Buddha the
giants decided to mend their ways stop eating
their neighbours and convert to Buddhism
For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and
offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the
templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally
constructed towards the end of the 7th century
Although the temple fell into disrepair over the
centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered
a chamber containing a number of Buddha
images The discovery led to the revitalisation of
this mountain top temple
The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are
guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured
sword-wielding warriors The courtyard
overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and
bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of
food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the
road leading to the temple
Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-
west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek
and easily accessible by car or taxi
Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai
was being established the name translates
as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably
because it was used to cast Buddha images for
its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The
entrance to the temple is through a small but
intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos
assembly hall is notable because it is one of the
only viharns of its type constructed solely from
teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a
superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock
astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference
to the king who once used the wooden hall as
his palace The gilded image features mythical
creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured
glass
The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite
from the busy road outside Wooden boxes
contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm
leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a
large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors
Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks
like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a
small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less
imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo
temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru
recommends a quick visit if you are passing
Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous
temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi
Luang
The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the
largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it
was damaged either by an earthquake in the
16th century or cannon fire from the guns
of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese
in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO
funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps
up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga
serpents and a group of five elephants (only the
one without a trunk or ears partially survived
whatever caused the structure to collapse the
others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi
was also once home to one of the most revered
religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald
Buddha Although the original now resides in
Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and
once again looks out over the city from a niche
on the east side of the structure
Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and
now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly
hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance
is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a
great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar
housed in a building at the base of the tree
Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although
one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few
alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed
Mae Hong Son
It is said that Mae Hong Son is the
most authentic and mountainous
province of Thailand For Thai Guru a
good reason to explore this province
side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai
province
Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of
Thailand The northern most part of this
province is at a distance of 924 km from
Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province
in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son
borders Myanmar On the south and east side it
borders Tak and Chiang Mai province
We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast
on the 108 road The scenery is woody and
mountainous so far so good And as we leave
the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek
for wildlife and beautiful landscapes
The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage
is that our average speed drops to less than
15 km hour No worries when you do trips
like these the clock stops and the only thing
on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning
landscapes that unfold before your eyes
The main road is well paved But as you might
understand we regularly go off road
This is the best way to come into contact with
locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo
While we are standing somewhere taking in the
beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a
falcon calling
A short walk through the forrest the sound
stops and we decide to sit down for some
water and well earned rest After a short while I
hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo
There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters
above us a white rumped falcon
Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras
it stays there and even when we start making
noises because we want to film it in flight it
takes itrsquos time
Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of
Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They
cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more
Of course they also have their own cattle And
walking through one of their small villages they
are very friendly and hospitable
It has to be said it is never smart to enter
a community or people with your camera
as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask
the people if they mind if you taking their
photograph or want to film their daily life
In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to
the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean
and offers a nice variety food on the terrace
with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city
where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists
Really nice to stroll down the walking street and
find food or a nice souvenir People are very
friendly as usual
From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae
Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an
average speed of 15 km hour
Halfway we jump out of the car into a river
Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to
keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn
but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around
without it
Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome
us and are gladly willing to allow us to make
photographs and film them
In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early
morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises
For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum
After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark
Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon
So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team
ChinatownBangkok
Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese
people in big cities around the world
Manhattan San Francisco Manilla
Paris and Boston have them and
more keep being officially recognised
in their role as historical and touristic
center every year Even places like
Dubai and Las Vegas have modern
day versions of this phenomenon
As soon as you pass under one of the famous
large red entrance arches you arrive in a
complete different world
A world that is paradise for photographers
A couple of the photographers in the Thai
Guru team decided to spend some time in the
Bangkok version of Chinatown
If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for
some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at
Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim
Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat
SLEEPY NANA dream destination
Relatively unknown and uncrowded
Nan has it all This gem of a province
hides an abundance of cultural and
natural attractions ancient temples
pristine forests rivers mountain
peaks but what strikes you most is
its omnipresent feel of an untroubled
authentic way of life
Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings
you this genuine feel in pictures and footage
For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of
Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant
nature and the nature of its people show
Thailand - as is often said before hordes of
tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas
it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan
managed to escape this proces but will it stay
that way Nan shares most of its border with
neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening
of the border and beyond towards China it is to
be expected that it will ultimately become an
important gateway for trade and tourism
Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town
and the countryside will enchant you and the natural
cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy
for at least a couple of days The town along the banks
of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base
to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night
life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous
temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue
influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The
great surroundings can best be explored by renting a
motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo
Much of the province is devoted to farming
Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still
being practised in areas of the province resulting
in a landscape where forests and fields alternate
Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside
of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature
peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich
natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the
province sees far fewer visitors than popular
neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You
can go white water rafting on the Wa River
along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim
National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay
overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes
Touring Nan
Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern
lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities
of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old
salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via
endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges
and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with
orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers
Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready
to be harvested broke through the green hills
giving a golden hue to the landscape
We encountered friendly villagers who worked
their way through the dry fields - meanwhile
singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to
supplement their meager incomes Despite their
hardship they showed us their heartwarming
hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes
with us
This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi
Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and
sparsely populated that we only passed two
cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos
difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand
nowadays
PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river
The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness
begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over
the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above
the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is
broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices
Then the carved image of a Naga becomes
visible above the water line followed by more
than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted
in red and gold colorshellip
During the year the remote provincial town
of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a
year for the annual spectacle of traditional
Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos
water artery The finals are held over two
days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos
banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite
team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in
Thailand yet relatively unknown
The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long
simple shelters where the massive dragon boats
are housed during the year Just once a year
they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos
most important sporting and social event The
event takes place right after the end of the
rainy season around early November when
water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at
their highest The colorful races are part of the
festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the
last day of Buddhist Lent in October
The narrow boats are made from massive
hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters
in length depending how many paddlers they
are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily
distinguishable by their use of bright colors and
mythical designs in the traditional local style
The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of
each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting
only the good ones to participate in their race
How to get there
Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is
connected by plane and by bus to the rest of
the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan
Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice
each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to
Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to
Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on
the service
Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan
(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8
hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)
The contestants of the races are classified into
three categories mdashlarge medium and small
boats Depending on their length each boat can
accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers
sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the
same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously
against the current to the frantic beating of a
drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern
The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying
their attempt to reach the finish line first and
the paddles churning up the river creates a
spectacular atmosphere
Son
g K
ran
in
Ch
ian
g M
ai
Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of
the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down
in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The
days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing
steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the
hot months of April and May The stifling mid-
day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out
unless necessary The buzz around town about
some festival called Song Kran is starting to
increase an underlying excitement rising
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
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To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
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infothaigurumagazinecom
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The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
After a couple of weeks traveling through
Thailand many are looking for the
perfect location to spend their last days
of their vancation Perfection doesnrsquot
exist but dream destination Krabi is gets
close
Located in the south west of Thailand
Krabi is also thanks to its airport an easy
destination to reach
You will notice the friendly atmosphere in this
area of Thailand right away
A couple of must sees like the Emerald Pond
and the Hot Waterfall are definitely worth your
visit Imagine relaxing in a the hot waterfall
under the exotic trees
And of course an island tour is a must when
you are in Krabi
By boat you can visit Por da Koh Hong Koh Kai
and the famous Pranang cave
Khao Yai National Park
Since establishing Thai Guru Magazine
we have been eager to take our
cameras to Khao Yai National Park
Having visited the area previously
I had already enjoyed the beauty
of Khao Yai and the abundance of
wildlife to be seen there and was keen
to share it with the rest of the team
Finally at the end of January we
jumped in the car for the long drive
south from
Chiang Mai
Three hours northeast of Bangkok Khao Yai
is the oldest and third largest national park
in Thailand Grasslands evergreen forests
monsoon forests and rain forests cover more
than 2000 square kilometres of this Unesco
World Heritage site
The park is teeming with wildlife Mammals
including elephant gibbon barking deer and
guar live within the parkrsquos borders The area
is also home to carnivores such as Asian wild
dogs and tigers as well as numerous reptiles and
amphibians including king cobras pythons and
monitor lizards Nearly 400 species of bird can
be found at Khao Yai Other attractions in this
trekkersrsquo paradise include several large waterfalls
The 20 metre Haew Suwat waterfall with is
deep pool was made famous by the film lsquoThe
Beachrsquo
Day 1The road leading to the gates of Khao Yai National Park is notable for its
numerous Italian influenced restaurants hotels and guesthouses A paradise
for pizza and pasta lovers there is even a small Italian-style village with ice-
cream parlours eateries and Italian themed guesthouses Almost immediately
after entering the park we were greeted by the sight of black giant squirrels
and pig tailed macaques clamouring in the canopy all around us Our first stop
was the visitor centre where we picked up a map of the park and other useful
information Outside were several sambar deer picking through restaurant
leftovers The rest of the day was spent exploring spots in which to set up
our cameras the following day We also made the first of several walks to the
observation tower adjacent to Nong Pak Chee reservoir As well as fabulous
views of the park the tower overlooks a saltlick where all manner of wildlife
gathers to suck up vital minerals and nutrients
Day 2Khao Yai is extremely popular with visitors and we could only
book lodging within its borders for the last two days of our trip
This meant an early start so we could get into the park in time to
shoot the sunrise We were the first visitors of the day and drove
to one of the places we had explored the day before We came
across what we thought was one of the many sambar or barking
deer that roam freely around the park We decided to take a
closer look only to find we had stumbled across an Asiatic black
bear half hidden in the morning mist Having spotted us after a
few minutes the handsome creature ambled off into the forest
The dawn had barely broken and our day was already a triumph
The rest of our time was spent following gibbons various varieties
deer and innumerable brightly coloured birds
Day 3Today we were fortunate to be allowed to move
ourselves and our equipment into government-
owned lodgings within the park Our first
mission was to set our cameras up at a place
where we had heard the heavy distinctive
rushing of wings and calls of hornbills (described
by some as sounding like the puffing of a steam
locomotive) the day before
We had expected a long wait but already had
our first shots of this impressive bird in the
can before breakfast We spent many hours
photographing hornbills macaque and other
wildlife
We even stumbled upon a pack of Asian wild
dogs gathered around the carcass of a recently
killed deer We thought our wildlife encounters
for the day were over as we sat down to enjoy
dinner only to be disturbed by scuffling sounds
behind our bungalow The noise was being
made by a pair of porcupines who were not in
the least afraid of us and actually attempted to
chase us away
Day 4The day was spent exploring the trails of Khao Yai and discovering among other wildlife a magnificent
crested serpent eagle As the afternoon drew to a close we decided to take one last trip to the watchtower
From here we witnessed the gathering of a large flock of hornbills We showed some of our footage to a
friendly ranger He was particularly interested in our bear shots We were thrilled to be told that it was very
rare to see a black bear even more so when we were informed that none of the rangers had seen one for
a number of months I decided to leave the tower to find a good place to photograph the sunset Within
a matter of minutes I heard someone scream ldquoBEARrdquo and was back up the stairs in seconds There below
us taking an evening stroll through the grass just metres from where we were perched was another much
younger black bear
Our trip could not have ended better Needless
to say Thai Guru thoroughly recommends a visit
to Khao Yai National Park As already mentioned
the park is popular with both local and foreign
tourists especially on holidays and weekends
We advise that you try to visit during the week
when the park is quieter and the chance of
seeing the amazing wildlife is greater
The park has two camping grounds as well as a
few bungalows that can be booked through the
Department of National Parks Wildlife and Plant
Conservation These need to be booked well
in advance However there are also plenty of
guesthouses and hotels are to be found along
the parkrsquos boundaries
Festival of LanternsThe enchanting atmosphere of Loi Krathong
The weather is cooling down and itrsquos
that time of year again when we all
take to the waterways of Thailand and
give praise to Khongkha the water
Goddess who took care of abundant
rainfall in the past raining season
Donrsquot miss this joyful celebration with
its enchanting atmosphere that brings
one and all in Thailand together
much like Songkran
Thailandrsquos lsquoFestival of Lightsrsquo is celebrated
throughout the kingdom on the night of the
November full moon The end of the rainy
season heralds the coolest months in the
countryrsquos calendar when the river waters are
also supposed to be at their highest
Superstition replaces religion on this night as
thousands flock to the banks of the swollen
rivers and canals to release khratongs floating
tributes to the river spirits and Mother Water ndash
Phra Mae Khongkha In recent years the festival
has been revived in the ancient temples of
Thailandrsquos former capital Sukhothai
Visitors assemble in the Sukhothai Historical
Park with their banana leaf khratongs decorated
with flowers incense sticks and candles to take
part in a ceremony that dates back centuries
Sometimes a coin is added as gift to the spirits
The pretty rafts are then released onto the lake
with a wish
It was once believed that Loi Khratong
was actually created in Sukhothai by Nang
Nopphamas a lady of the court and consort
of the king In fact the celebration was adapted
by Thai Buddhists from a Brahmanical festival
adapted to honour Buddha
The khratong is meant to be a light on the
darkness of the water for Buddha A personrsquos
sins and negative thoughts are also believed to
float away with the colourful little raft Try adding
a lock of your hair for extra luck
Nearly 20 of the Northern provinces will be
showing off a dazzling selection of floats in the
Royal Khratongs Procession as well as holding a
Miss Nopphamat beauty contest
A competition is held for the most beautifully
designed khratong as well as plenty of other
Sukhothai arts and cultural performances
The Light-and-Sound Presentation at Wat
Mahathat explains the history and origins of
Sukhothai and Loi Khratong through dance
music prayer combat displays light effects and
fireworks No Loi Khratong would be complete
without fireworks and thankfully the Thais are
not shy when it comes to blowing things up in
the sky
Tra Kuan pond is the place to be for the floating
of the Royal Khratongs followed by more
firmament-filling pyrotechnics Wat Chana
Songkram is the venue for the Mahachat
sermon Khon Marked Dance and a Thai
classical music performance
Thai Guru decided to travel from Chiang Mai
to Sukhotai for this yearrsquos festivities Although
the heavens decided to open for most of the
celebrations on the final day the rain could not
dampen the celebrations and the spectacle was
jaw dropping
The only thing that was missing due to the rain
was a sky filled with khom loi the sky lanterns
usually released into the firmament in their
hundreds
Although the festivities officially last for the best
part of a week it is the last three days that are
the busiest
Visitors can join in with a range of activities
including fruit carving or just wander around the
historic park listening to live traditional music
watching Thai martial arts or join the parade
of dancers musicians and beauty contestants
all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured
costumes
There are numerous places to stay for the
duration of the festival but it is advisable to
book ahead if you can because this is a very
popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north
from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai
Chiang Mai Temples
A visit to a temple in Thailand is
unavoidable They are everywhere
We at Thai Guru are well aware that
because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can
quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang
Mai With this in mind (and because
the city is overflowing with hundreds
of them) we have chosen a few of
our favourites we hope are slightly
alternative to the ones on the usual
tourist itinerary
Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to
the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its
latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of
the skills of the local silversmiths Like many
of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was
established several centuries ago The ubosoth
or ordination hall is an intricately designed
silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in
the sunlight
The area around Wua Lai has been the home to
silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past
couple of centuries who are famed throughout
the kingdom for creating detailed embossed
relief patterns on the objects they create
something that is immediately evident and
celebrated at Wat Srisuphan
The larger more traditionally decorated red blue
and gold prayer hall also contains impressive
silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos
life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft
museum
Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the
artisans at work and the temple has its own
silver-working school where apprentices are
trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive
Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved
in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-
robed residents of the temple improve their
linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also
available
Unfortunately women are not allowed to
enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this
is explained on a sign outside the wording of
which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in
the monastic boundary many precious things
incantations amulets and other holy objects
were buried over 500 years ago Entering
inside this area may deteriorated the place or
otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most
of the interior can be appreciated from the
doorway
Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous
for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged
Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai
Due to its being less well advertised than its
neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham
is often a more peaceful temple from which
to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang
Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist
Lent when the place was alive with worshippers
Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once
the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic
giants Following a visit from the Buddha the
giants decided to mend their ways stop eating
their neighbours and convert to Buddhism
For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and
offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the
templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally
constructed towards the end of the 7th century
Although the temple fell into disrepair over the
centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered
a chamber containing a number of Buddha
images The discovery led to the revitalisation of
this mountain top temple
The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are
guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured
sword-wielding warriors The courtyard
overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and
bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of
food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the
road leading to the temple
Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-
west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek
and easily accessible by car or taxi
Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai
was being established the name translates
as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably
because it was used to cast Buddha images for
its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The
entrance to the temple is through a small but
intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos
assembly hall is notable because it is one of the
only viharns of its type constructed solely from
teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a
superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock
astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference
to the king who once used the wooden hall as
his palace The gilded image features mythical
creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured
glass
The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite
from the busy road outside Wooden boxes
contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm
leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a
large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors
Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks
like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a
small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less
imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo
temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru
recommends a quick visit if you are passing
Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous
temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi
Luang
The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the
largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it
was damaged either by an earthquake in the
16th century or cannon fire from the guns
of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese
in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO
funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps
up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga
serpents and a group of five elephants (only the
one without a trunk or ears partially survived
whatever caused the structure to collapse the
others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi
was also once home to one of the most revered
religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald
Buddha Although the original now resides in
Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and
once again looks out over the city from a niche
on the east side of the structure
Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and
now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly
hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance
is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a
great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar
housed in a building at the base of the tree
Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although
one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few
alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed
Mae Hong Son
It is said that Mae Hong Son is the
most authentic and mountainous
province of Thailand For Thai Guru a
good reason to explore this province
side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai
province
Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of
Thailand The northern most part of this
province is at a distance of 924 km from
Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province
in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son
borders Myanmar On the south and east side it
borders Tak and Chiang Mai province
We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast
on the 108 road The scenery is woody and
mountainous so far so good And as we leave
the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek
for wildlife and beautiful landscapes
The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage
is that our average speed drops to less than
15 km hour No worries when you do trips
like these the clock stops and the only thing
on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning
landscapes that unfold before your eyes
The main road is well paved But as you might
understand we regularly go off road
This is the best way to come into contact with
locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo
While we are standing somewhere taking in the
beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a
falcon calling
A short walk through the forrest the sound
stops and we decide to sit down for some
water and well earned rest After a short while I
hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo
There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters
above us a white rumped falcon
Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras
it stays there and even when we start making
noises because we want to film it in flight it
takes itrsquos time
Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of
Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They
cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more
Of course they also have their own cattle And
walking through one of their small villages they
are very friendly and hospitable
It has to be said it is never smart to enter
a community or people with your camera
as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask
the people if they mind if you taking their
photograph or want to film their daily life
In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to
the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean
and offers a nice variety food on the terrace
with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city
where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists
Really nice to stroll down the walking street and
find food or a nice souvenir People are very
friendly as usual
From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae
Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an
average speed of 15 km hour
Halfway we jump out of the car into a river
Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to
keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn
but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around
without it
Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome
us and are gladly willing to allow us to make
photographs and film them
In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early
morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises
For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum
After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark
Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon
So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team
ChinatownBangkok
Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese
people in big cities around the world
Manhattan San Francisco Manilla
Paris and Boston have them and
more keep being officially recognised
in their role as historical and touristic
center every year Even places like
Dubai and Las Vegas have modern
day versions of this phenomenon
As soon as you pass under one of the famous
large red entrance arches you arrive in a
complete different world
A world that is paradise for photographers
A couple of the photographers in the Thai
Guru team decided to spend some time in the
Bangkok version of Chinatown
If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for
some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at
Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim
Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat
SLEEPY NANA dream destination
Relatively unknown and uncrowded
Nan has it all This gem of a province
hides an abundance of cultural and
natural attractions ancient temples
pristine forests rivers mountain
peaks but what strikes you most is
its omnipresent feel of an untroubled
authentic way of life
Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings
you this genuine feel in pictures and footage
For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of
Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant
nature and the nature of its people show
Thailand - as is often said before hordes of
tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas
it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan
managed to escape this proces but will it stay
that way Nan shares most of its border with
neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening
of the border and beyond towards China it is to
be expected that it will ultimately become an
important gateway for trade and tourism
Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town
and the countryside will enchant you and the natural
cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy
for at least a couple of days The town along the banks
of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base
to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night
life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous
temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue
influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The
great surroundings can best be explored by renting a
motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo
Much of the province is devoted to farming
Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still
being practised in areas of the province resulting
in a landscape where forests and fields alternate
Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside
of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature
peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich
natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the
province sees far fewer visitors than popular
neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You
can go white water rafting on the Wa River
along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim
National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay
overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes
Touring Nan
Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern
lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities
of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old
salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via
endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges
and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with
orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers
Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready
to be harvested broke through the green hills
giving a golden hue to the landscape
We encountered friendly villagers who worked
their way through the dry fields - meanwhile
singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to
supplement their meager incomes Despite their
hardship they showed us their heartwarming
hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes
with us
This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi
Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and
sparsely populated that we only passed two
cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos
difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand
nowadays
PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river
The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness
begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over
the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above
the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is
broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices
Then the carved image of a Naga becomes
visible above the water line followed by more
than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted
in red and gold colorshellip
During the year the remote provincial town
of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a
year for the annual spectacle of traditional
Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos
water artery The finals are held over two
days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos
banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite
team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in
Thailand yet relatively unknown
The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long
simple shelters where the massive dragon boats
are housed during the year Just once a year
they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos
most important sporting and social event The
event takes place right after the end of the
rainy season around early November when
water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at
their highest The colorful races are part of the
festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the
last day of Buddhist Lent in October
The narrow boats are made from massive
hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters
in length depending how many paddlers they
are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily
distinguishable by their use of bright colors and
mythical designs in the traditional local style
The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of
each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting
only the good ones to participate in their race
How to get there
Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is
connected by plane and by bus to the rest of
the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan
Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice
each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to
Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to
Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on
the service
Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan
(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8
hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)
The contestants of the races are classified into
three categories mdashlarge medium and small
boats Depending on their length each boat can
accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers
sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the
same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously
against the current to the frantic beating of a
drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern
The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying
their attempt to reach the finish line first and
the paddles churning up the river creates a
spectacular atmosphere
Son
g K
ran
in
Ch
ian
g M
ai
Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of
the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down
in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The
days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing
steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the
hot months of April and May The stifling mid-
day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out
unless necessary The buzz around town about
some festival called Song Kran is starting to
increase an underlying excitement rising
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
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infothaigurumagazinecom
All videos in this magazine are
available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
You will notice the friendly atmosphere in this
area of Thailand right away
A couple of must sees like the Emerald Pond
and the Hot Waterfall are definitely worth your
visit Imagine relaxing in a the hot waterfall
under the exotic trees
And of course an island tour is a must when
you are in Krabi
By boat you can visit Por da Koh Hong Koh Kai
and the famous Pranang cave
Khao Yai National Park
Since establishing Thai Guru Magazine
we have been eager to take our
cameras to Khao Yai National Park
Having visited the area previously
I had already enjoyed the beauty
of Khao Yai and the abundance of
wildlife to be seen there and was keen
to share it with the rest of the team
Finally at the end of January we
jumped in the car for the long drive
south from
Chiang Mai
Three hours northeast of Bangkok Khao Yai
is the oldest and third largest national park
in Thailand Grasslands evergreen forests
monsoon forests and rain forests cover more
than 2000 square kilometres of this Unesco
World Heritage site
The park is teeming with wildlife Mammals
including elephant gibbon barking deer and
guar live within the parkrsquos borders The area
is also home to carnivores such as Asian wild
dogs and tigers as well as numerous reptiles and
amphibians including king cobras pythons and
monitor lizards Nearly 400 species of bird can
be found at Khao Yai Other attractions in this
trekkersrsquo paradise include several large waterfalls
The 20 metre Haew Suwat waterfall with is
deep pool was made famous by the film lsquoThe
Beachrsquo
Day 1The road leading to the gates of Khao Yai National Park is notable for its
numerous Italian influenced restaurants hotels and guesthouses A paradise
for pizza and pasta lovers there is even a small Italian-style village with ice-
cream parlours eateries and Italian themed guesthouses Almost immediately
after entering the park we were greeted by the sight of black giant squirrels
and pig tailed macaques clamouring in the canopy all around us Our first stop
was the visitor centre where we picked up a map of the park and other useful
information Outside were several sambar deer picking through restaurant
leftovers The rest of the day was spent exploring spots in which to set up
our cameras the following day We also made the first of several walks to the
observation tower adjacent to Nong Pak Chee reservoir As well as fabulous
views of the park the tower overlooks a saltlick where all manner of wildlife
gathers to suck up vital minerals and nutrients
Day 2Khao Yai is extremely popular with visitors and we could only
book lodging within its borders for the last two days of our trip
This meant an early start so we could get into the park in time to
shoot the sunrise We were the first visitors of the day and drove
to one of the places we had explored the day before We came
across what we thought was one of the many sambar or barking
deer that roam freely around the park We decided to take a
closer look only to find we had stumbled across an Asiatic black
bear half hidden in the morning mist Having spotted us after a
few minutes the handsome creature ambled off into the forest
The dawn had barely broken and our day was already a triumph
The rest of our time was spent following gibbons various varieties
deer and innumerable brightly coloured birds
Day 3Today we were fortunate to be allowed to move
ourselves and our equipment into government-
owned lodgings within the park Our first
mission was to set our cameras up at a place
where we had heard the heavy distinctive
rushing of wings and calls of hornbills (described
by some as sounding like the puffing of a steam
locomotive) the day before
We had expected a long wait but already had
our first shots of this impressive bird in the
can before breakfast We spent many hours
photographing hornbills macaque and other
wildlife
We even stumbled upon a pack of Asian wild
dogs gathered around the carcass of a recently
killed deer We thought our wildlife encounters
for the day were over as we sat down to enjoy
dinner only to be disturbed by scuffling sounds
behind our bungalow The noise was being
made by a pair of porcupines who were not in
the least afraid of us and actually attempted to
chase us away
Day 4The day was spent exploring the trails of Khao Yai and discovering among other wildlife a magnificent
crested serpent eagle As the afternoon drew to a close we decided to take one last trip to the watchtower
From here we witnessed the gathering of a large flock of hornbills We showed some of our footage to a
friendly ranger He was particularly interested in our bear shots We were thrilled to be told that it was very
rare to see a black bear even more so when we were informed that none of the rangers had seen one for
a number of months I decided to leave the tower to find a good place to photograph the sunset Within
a matter of minutes I heard someone scream ldquoBEARrdquo and was back up the stairs in seconds There below
us taking an evening stroll through the grass just metres from where we were perched was another much
younger black bear
Our trip could not have ended better Needless
to say Thai Guru thoroughly recommends a visit
to Khao Yai National Park As already mentioned
the park is popular with both local and foreign
tourists especially on holidays and weekends
We advise that you try to visit during the week
when the park is quieter and the chance of
seeing the amazing wildlife is greater
The park has two camping grounds as well as a
few bungalows that can be booked through the
Department of National Parks Wildlife and Plant
Conservation These need to be booked well
in advance However there are also plenty of
guesthouses and hotels are to be found along
the parkrsquos boundaries
Festival of LanternsThe enchanting atmosphere of Loi Krathong
The weather is cooling down and itrsquos
that time of year again when we all
take to the waterways of Thailand and
give praise to Khongkha the water
Goddess who took care of abundant
rainfall in the past raining season
Donrsquot miss this joyful celebration with
its enchanting atmosphere that brings
one and all in Thailand together
much like Songkran
Thailandrsquos lsquoFestival of Lightsrsquo is celebrated
throughout the kingdom on the night of the
November full moon The end of the rainy
season heralds the coolest months in the
countryrsquos calendar when the river waters are
also supposed to be at their highest
Superstition replaces religion on this night as
thousands flock to the banks of the swollen
rivers and canals to release khratongs floating
tributes to the river spirits and Mother Water ndash
Phra Mae Khongkha In recent years the festival
has been revived in the ancient temples of
Thailandrsquos former capital Sukhothai
Visitors assemble in the Sukhothai Historical
Park with their banana leaf khratongs decorated
with flowers incense sticks and candles to take
part in a ceremony that dates back centuries
Sometimes a coin is added as gift to the spirits
The pretty rafts are then released onto the lake
with a wish
It was once believed that Loi Khratong
was actually created in Sukhothai by Nang
Nopphamas a lady of the court and consort
of the king In fact the celebration was adapted
by Thai Buddhists from a Brahmanical festival
adapted to honour Buddha
The khratong is meant to be a light on the
darkness of the water for Buddha A personrsquos
sins and negative thoughts are also believed to
float away with the colourful little raft Try adding
a lock of your hair for extra luck
Nearly 20 of the Northern provinces will be
showing off a dazzling selection of floats in the
Royal Khratongs Procession as well as holding a
Miss Nopphamat beauty contest
A competition is held for the most beautifully
designed khratong as well as plenty of other
Sukhothai arts and cultural performances
The Light-and-Sound Presentation at Wat
Mahathat explains the history and origins of
Sukhothai and Loi Khratong through dance
music prayer combat displays light effects and
fireworks No Loi Khratong would be complete
without fireworks and thankfully the Thais are
not shy when it comes to blowing things up in
the sky
Tra Kuan pond is the place to be for the floating
of the Royal Khratongs followed by more
firmament-filling pyrotechnics Wat Chana
Songkram is the venue for the Mahachat
sermon Khon Marked Dance and a Thai
classical music performance
Thai Guru decided to travel from Chiang Mai
to Sukhotai for this yearrsquos festivities Although
the heavens decided to open for most of the
celebrations on the final day the rain could not
dampen the celebrations and the spectacle was
jaw dropping
The only thing that was missing due to the rain
was a sky filled with khom loi the sky lanterns
usually released into the firmament in their
hundreds
Although the festivities officially last for the best
part of a week it is the last three days that are
the busiest
Visitors can join in with a range of activities
including fruit carving or just wander around the
historic park listening to live traditional music
watching Thai martial arts or join the parade
of dancers musicians and beauty contestants
all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured
costumes
There are numerous places to stay for the
duration of the festival but it is advisable to
book ahead if you can because this is a very
popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north
from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai
Chiang Mai Temples
A visit to a temple in Thailand is
unavoidable They are everywhere
We at Thai Guru are well aware that
because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can
quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang
Mai With this in mind (and because
the city is overflowing with hundreds
of them) we have chosen a few of
our favourites we hope are slightly
alternative to the ones on the usual
tourist itinerary
Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to
the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its
latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of
the skills of the local silversmiths Like many
of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was
established several centuries ago The ubosoth
or ordination hall is an intricately designed
silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in
the sunlight
The area around Wua Lai has been the home to
silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past
couple of centuries who are famed throughout
the kingdom for creating detailed embossed
relief patterns on the objects they create
something that is immediately evident and
celebrated at Wat Srisuphan
The larger more traditionally decorated red blue
and gold prayer hall also contains impressive
silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos
life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft
museum
Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the
artisans at work and the temple has its own
silver-working school where apprentices are
trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive
Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved
in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-
robed residents of the temple improve their
linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also
available
Unfortunately women are not allowed to
enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this
is explained on a sign outside the wording of
which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in
the monastic boundary many precious things
incantations amulets and other holy objects
were buried over 500 years ago Entering
inside this area may deteriorated the place or
otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most
of the interior can be appreciated from the
doorway
Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous
for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged
Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai
Due to its being less well advertised than its
neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham
is often a more peaceful temple from which
to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang
Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist
Lent when the place was alive with worshippers
Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once
the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic
giants Following a visit from the Buddha the
giants decided to mend their ways stop eating
their neighbours and convert to Buddhism
For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and
offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the
templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally
constructed towards the end of the 7th century
Although the temple fell into disrepair over the
centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered
a chamber containing a number of Buddha
images The discovery led to the revitalisation of
this mountain top temple
The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are
guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured
sword-wielding warriors The courtyard
overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and
bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of
food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the
road leading to the temple
Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-
west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek
and easily accessible by car or taxi
Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai
was being established the name translates
as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably
because it was used to cast Buddha images for
its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The
entrance to the temple is through a small but
intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos
assembly hall is notable because it is one of the
only viharns of its type constructed solely from
teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a
superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock
astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference
to the king who once used the wooden hall as
his palace The gilded image features mythical
creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured
glass
The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite
from the busy road outside Wooden boxes
contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm
leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a
large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors
Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks
like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a
small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less
imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo
temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru
recommends a quick visit if you are passing
Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous
temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi
Luang
The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the
largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it
was damaged either by an earthquake in the
16th century or cannon fire from the guns
of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese
in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO
funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps
up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga
serpents and a group of five elephants (only the
one without a trunk or ears partially survived
whatever caused the structure to collapse the
others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi
was also once home to one of the most revered
religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald
Buddha Although the original now resides in
Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and
once again looks out over the city from a niche
on the east side of the structure
Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and
now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly
hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance
is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a
great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar
housed in a building at the base of the tree
Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although
one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few
alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed
Mae Hong Son
It is said that Mae Hong Son is the
most authentic and mountainous
province of Thailand For Thai Guru a
good reason to explore this province
side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai
province
Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of
Thailand The northern most part of this
province is at a distance of 924 km from
Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province
in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son
borders Myanmar On the south and east side it
borders Tak and Chiang Mai province
We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast
on the 108 road The scenery is woody and
mountainous so far so good And as we leave
the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek
for wildlife and beautiful landscapes
The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage
is that our average speed drops to less than
15 km hour No worries when you do trips
like these the clock stops and the only thing
on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning
landscapes that unfold before your eyes
The main road is well paved But as you might
understand we regularly go off road
This is the best way to come into contact with
locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo
While we are standing somewhere taking in the
beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a
falcon calling
A short walk through the forrest the sound
stops and we decide to sit down for some
water and well earned rest After a short while I
hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo
There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters
above us a white rumped falcon
Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras
it stays there and even when we start making
noises because we want to film it in flight it
takes itrsquos time
Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of
Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They
cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more
Of course they also have their own cattle And
walking through one of their small villages they
are very friendly and hospitable
It has to be said it is never smart to enter
a community or people with your camera
as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask
the people if they mind if you taking their
photograph or want to film their daily life
In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to
the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean
and offers a nice variety food on the terrace
with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city
where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists
Really nice to stroll down the walking street and
find food or a nice souvenir People are very
friendly as usual
From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae
Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an
average speed of 15 km hour
Halfway we jump out of the car into a river
Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to
keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn
but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around
without it
Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome
us and are gladly willing to allow us to make
photographs and film them
In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early
morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises
For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum
After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark
Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon
So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team
ChinatownBangkok
Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese
people in big cities around the world
Manhattan San Francisco Manilla
Paris and Boston have them and
more keep being officially recognised
in their role as historical and touristic
center every year Even places like
Dubai and Las Vegas have modern
day versions of this phenomenon
As soon as you pass under one of the famous
large red entrance arches you arrive in a
complete different world
A world that is paradise for photographers
A couple of the photographers in the Thai
Guru team decided to spend some time in the
Bangkok version of Chinatown
If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for
some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at
Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim
Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat
SLEEPY NANA dream destination
Relatively unknown and uncrowded
Nan has it all This gem of a province
hides an abundance of cultural and
natural attractions ancient temples
pristine forests rivers mountain
peaks but what strikes you most is
its omnipresent feel of an untroubled
authentic way of life
Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings
you this genuine feel in pictures and footage
For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of
Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant
nature and the nature of its people show
Thailand - as is often said before hordes of
tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas
it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan
managed to escape this proces but will it stay
that way Nan shares most of its border with
neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening
of the border and beyond towards China it is to
be expected that it will ultimately become an
important gateway for trade and tourism
Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town
and the countryside will enchant you and the natural
cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy
for at least a couple of days The town along the banks
of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base
to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night
life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous
temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue
influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The
great surroundings can best be explored by renting a
motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo
Much of the province is devoted to farming
Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still
being practised in areas of the province resulting
in a landscape where forests and fields alternate
Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside
of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature
peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich
natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the
province sees far fewer visitors than popular
neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You
can go white water rafting on the Wa River
along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim
National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay
overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes
Touring Nan
Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern
lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities
of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old
salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via
endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges
and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with
orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers
Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready
to be harvested broke through the green hills
giving a golden hue to the landscape
We encountered friendly villagers who worked
their way through the dry fields - meanwhile
singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to
supplement their meager incomes Despite their
hardship they showed us their heartwarming
hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes
with us
This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi
Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and
sparsely populated that we only passed two
cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos
difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand
nowadays
PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river
The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness
begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over
the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above
the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is
broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices
Then the carved image of a Naga becomes
visible above the water line followed by more
than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted
in red and gold colorshellip
During the year the remote provincial town
of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a
year for the annual spectacle of traditional
Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos
water artery The finals are held over two
days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos
banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite
team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in
Thailand yet relatively unknown
The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long
simple shelters where the massive dragon boats
are housed during the year Just once a year
they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos
most important sporting and social event The
event takes place right after the end of the
rainy season around early November when
water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at
their highest The colorful races are part of the
festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the
last day of Buddhist Lent in October
The narrow boats are made from massive
hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters
in length depending how many paddlers they
are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily
distinguishable by their use of bright colors and
mythical designs in the traditional local style
The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of
each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting
only the good ones to participate in their race
How to get there
Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is
connected by plane and by bus to the rest of
the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan
Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice
each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to
Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to
Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on
the service
Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan
(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8
hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)
The contestants of the races are classified into
three categories mdashlarge medium and small
boats Depending on their length each boat can
accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers
sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the
same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously
against the current to the frantic beating of a
drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern
The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying
their attempt to reach the finish line first and
the paddles churning up the river creates a
spectacular atmosphere
Son
g K
ran
in
Ch
ian
g M
ai
Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of
the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down
in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The
days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing
steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the
hot months of April and May The stifling mid-
day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out
unless necessary The buzz around town about
some festival called Song Kran is starting to
increase an underlying excitement rising
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
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infothaigurumagazinecom
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available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
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Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
Khao Yai National Park
Since establishing Thai Guru Magazine
we have been eager to take our
cameras to Khao Yai National Park
Having visited the area previously
I had already enjoyed the beauty
of Khao Yai and the abundance of
wildlife to be seen there and was keen
to share it with the rest of the team
Finally at the end of January we
jumped in the car for the long drive
south from
Chiang Mai
Three hours northeast of Bangkok Khao Yai
is the oldest and third largest national park
in Thailand Grasslands evergreen forests
monsoon forests and rain forests cover more
than 2000 square kilometres of this Unesco
World Heritage site
The park is teeming with wildlife Mammals
including elephant gibbon barking deer and
guar live within the parkrsquos borders The area
is also home to carnivores such as Asian wild
dogs and tigers as well as numerous reptiles and
amphibians including king cobras pythons and
monitor lizards Nearly 400 species of bird can
be found at Khao Yai Other attractions in this
trekkersrsquo paradise include several large waterfalls
The 20 metre Haew Suwat waterfall with is
deep pool was made famous by the film lsquoThe
Beachrsquo
Day 1The road leading to the gates of Khao Yai National Park is notable for its
numerous Italian influenced restaurants hotels and guesthouses A paradise
for pizza and pasta lovers there is even a small Italian-style village with ice-
cream parlours eateries and Italian themed guesthouses Almost immediately
after entering the park we were greeted by the sight of black giant squirrels
and pig tailed macaques clamouring in the canopy all around us Our first stop
was the visitor centre where we picked up a map of the park and other useful
information Outside were several sambar deer picking through restaurant
leftovers The rest of the day was spent exploring spots in which to set up
our cameras the following day We also made the first of several walks to the
observation tower adjacent to Nong Pak Chee reservoir As well as fabulous
views of the park the tower overlooks a saltlick where all manner of wildlife
gathers to suck up vital minerals and nutrients
Day 2Khao Yai is extremely popular with visitors and we could only
book lodging within its borders for the last two days of our trip
This meant an early start so we could get into the park in time to
shoot the sunrise We were the first visitors of the day and drove
to one of the places we had explored the day before We came
across what we thought was one of the many sambar or barking
deer that roam freely around the park We decided to take a
closer look only to find we had stumbled across an Asiatic black
bear half hidden in the morning mist Having spotted us after a
few minutes the handsome creature ambled off into the forest
The dawn had barely broken and our day was already a triumph
The rest of our time was spent following gibbons various varieties
deer and innumerable brightly coloured birds
Day 3Today we were fortunate to be allowed to move
ourselves and our equipment into government-
owned lodgings within the park Our first
mission was to set our cameras up at a place
where we had heard the heavy distinctive
rushing of wings and calls of hornbills (described
by some as sounding like the puffing of a steam
locomotive) the day before
We had expected a long wait but already had
our first shots of this impressive bird in the
can before breakfast We spent many hours
photographing hornbills macaque and other
wildlife
We even stumbled upon a pack of Asian wild
dogs gathered around the carcass of a recently
killed deer We thought our wildlife encounters
for the day were over as we sat down to enjoy
dinner only to be disturbed by scuffling sounds
behind our bungalow The noise was being
made by a pair of porcupines who were not in
the least afraid of us and actually attempted to
chase us away
Day 4The day was spent exploring the trails of Khao Yai and discovering among other wildlife a magnificent
crested serpent eagle As the afternoon drew to a close we decided to take one last trip to the watchtower
From here we witnessed the gathering of a large flock of hornbills We showed some of our footage to a
friendly ranger He was particularly interested in our bear shots We were thrilled to be told that it was very
rare to see a black bear even more so when we were informed that none of the rangers had seen one for
a number of months I decided to leave the tower to find a good place to photograph the sunset Within
a matter of minutes I heard someone scream ldquoBEARrdquo and was back up the stairs in seconds There below
us taking an evening stroll through the grass just metres from where we were perched was another much
younger black bear
Our trip could not have ended better Needless
to say Thai Guru thoroughly recommends a visit
to Khao Yai National Park As already mentioned
the park is popular with both local and foreign
tourists especially on holidays and weekends
We advise that you try to visit during the week
when the park is quieter and the chance of
seeing the amazing wildlife is greater
The park has two camping grounds as well as a
few bungalows that can be booked through the
Department of National Parks Wildlife and Plant
Conservation These need to be booked well
in advance However there are also plenty of
guesthouses and hotels are to be found along
the parkrsquos boundaries
Festival of LanternsThe enchanting atmosphere of Loi Krathong
The weather is cooling down and itrsquos
that time of year again when we all
take to the waterways of Thailand and
give praise to Khongkha the water
Goddess who took care of abundant
rainfall in the past raining season
Donrsquot miss this joyful celebration with
its enchanting atmosphere that brings
one and all in Thailand together
much like Songkran
Thailandrsquos lsquoFestival of Lightsrsquo is celebrated
throughout the kingdom on the night of the
November full moon The end of the rainy
season heralds the coolest months in the
countryrsquos calendar when the river waters are
also supposed to be at their highest
Superstition replaces religion on this night as
thousands flock to the banks of the swollen
rivers and canals to release khratongs floating
tributes to the river spirits and Mother Water ndash
Phra Mae Khongkha In recent years the festival
has been revived in the ancient temples of
Thailandrsquos former capital Sukhothai
Visitors assemble in the Sukhothai Historical
Park with their banana leaf khratongs decorated
with flowers incense sticks and candles to take
part in a ceremony that dates back centuries
Sometimes a coin is added as gift to the spirits
The pretty rafts are then released onto the lake
with a wish
It was once believed that Loi Khratong
was actually created in Sukhothai by Nang
Nopphamas a lady of the court and consort
of the king In fact the celebration was adapted
by Thai Buddhists from a Brahmanical festival
adapted to honour Buddha
The khratong is meant to be a light on the
darkness of the water for Buddha A personrsquos
sins and negative thoughts are also believed to
float away with the colourful little raft Try adding
a lock of your hair for extra luck
Nearly 20 of the Northern provinces will be
showing off a dazzling selection of floats in the
Royal Khratongs Procession as well as holding a
Miss Nopphamat beauty contest
A competition is held for the most beautifully
designed khratong as well as plenty of other
Sukhothai arts and cultural performances
The Light-and-Sound Presentation at Wat
Mahathat explains the history and origins of
Sukhothai and Loi Khratong through dance
music prayer combat displays light effects and
fireworks No Loi Khratong would be complete
without fireworks and thankfully the Thais are
not shy when it comes to blowing things up in
the sky
Tra Kuan pond is the place to be for the floating
of the Royal Khratongs followed by more
firmament-filling pyrotechnics Wat Chana
Songkram is the venue for the Mahachat
sermon Khon Marked Dance and a Thai
classical music performance
Thai Guru decided to travel from Chiang Mai
to Sukhotai for this yearrsquos festivities Although
the heavens decided to open for most of the
celebrations on the final day the rain could not
dampen the celebrations and the spectacle was
jaw dropping
The only thing that was missing due to the rain
was a sky filled with khom loi the sky lanterns
usually released into the firmament in their
hundreds
Although the festivities officially last for the best
part of a week it is the last three days that are
the busiest
Visitors can join in with a range of activities
including fruit carving or just wander around the
historic park listening to live traditional music
watching Thai martial arts or join the parade
of dancers musicians and beauty contestants
all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured
costumes
There are numerous places to stay for the
duration of the festival but it is advisable to
book ahead if you can because this is a very
popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north
from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai
Chiang Mai Temples
A visit to a temple in Thailand is
unavoidable They are everywhere
We at Thai Guru are well aware that
because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can
quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang
Mai With this in mind (and because
the city is overflowing with hundreds
of them) we have chosen a few of
our favourites we hope are slightly
alternative to the ones on the usual
tourist itinerary
Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to
the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its
latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of
the skills of the local silversmiths Like many
of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was
established several centuries ago The ubosoth
or ordination hall is an intricately designed
silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in
the sunlight
The area around Wua Lai has been the home to
silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past
couple of centuries who are famed throughout
the kingdom for creating detailed embossed
relief patterns on the objects they create
something that is immediately evident and
celebrated at Wat Srisuphan
The larger more traditionally decorated red blue
and gold prayer hall also contains impressive
silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos
life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft
museum
Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the
artisans at work and the temple has its own
silver-working school where apprentices are
trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive
Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved
in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-
robed residents of the temple improve their
linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also
available
Unfortunately women are not allowed to
enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this
is explained on a sign outside the wording of
which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in
the monastic boundary many precious things
incantations amulets and other holy objects
were buried over 500 years ago Entering
inside this area may deteriorated the place or
otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most
of the interior can be appreciated from the
doorway
Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous
for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged
Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai
Due to its being less well advertised than its
neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham
is often a more peaceful temple from which
to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang
Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist
Lent when the place was alive with worshippers
Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once
the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic
giants Following a visit from the Buddha the
giants decided to mend their ways stop eating
their neighbours and convert to Buddhism
For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and
offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the
templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally
constructed towards the end of the 7th century
Although the temple fell into disrepair over the
centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered
a chamber containing a number of Buddha
images The discovery led to the revitalisation of
this mountain top temple
The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are
guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured
sword-wielding warriors The courtyard
overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and
bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of
food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the
road leading to the temple
Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-
west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek
and easily accessible by car or taxi
Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai
was being established the name translates
as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably
because it was used to cast Buddha images for
its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The
entrance to the temple is through a small but
intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos
assembly hall is notable because it is one of the
only viharns of its type constructed solely from
teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a
superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock
astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference
to the king who once used the wooden hall as
his palace The gilded image features mythical
creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured
glass
The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite
from the busy road outside Wooden boxes
contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm
leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a
large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors
Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks
like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a
small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less
imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo
temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru
recommends a quick visit if you are passing
Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous
temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi
Luang
The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the
largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it
was damaged either by an earthquake in the
16th century or cannon fire from the guns
of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese
in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO
funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps
up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga
serpents and a group of five elephants (only the
one without a trunk or ears partially survived
whatever caused the structure to collapse the
others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi
was also once home to one of the most revered
religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald
Buddha Although the original now resides in
Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and
once again looks out over the city from a niche
on the east side of the structure
Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and
now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly
hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance
is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a
great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar
housed in a building at the base of the tree
Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although
one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few
alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed
Mae Hong Son
It is said that Mae Hong Son is the
most authentic and mountainous
province of Thailand For Thai Guru a
good reason to explore this province
side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai
province
Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of
Thailand The northern most part of this
province is at a distance of 924 km from
Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province
in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son
borders Myanmar On the south and east side it
borders Tak and Chiang Mai province
We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast
on the 108 road The scenery is woody and
mountainous so far so good And as we leave
the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek
for wildlife and beautiful landscapes
The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage
is that our average speed drops to less than
15 km hour No worries when you do trips
like these the clock stops and the only thing
on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning
landscapes that unfold before your eyes
The main road is well paved But as you might
understand we regularly go off road
This is the best way to come into contact with
locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo
While we are standing somewhere taking in the
beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a
falcon calling
A short walk through the forrest the sound
stops and we decide to sit down for some
water and well earned rest After a short while I
hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo
There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters
above us a white rumped falcon
Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras
it stays there and even when we start making
noises because we want to film it in flight it
takes itrsquos time
Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of
Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They
cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more
Of course they also have their own cattle And
walking through one of their small villages they
are very friendly and hospitable
It has to be said it is never smart to enter
a community or people with your camera
as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask
the people if they mind if you taking their
photograph or want to film their daily life
In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to
the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean
and offers a nice variety food on the terrace
with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city
where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists
Really nice to stroll down the walking street and
find food or a nice souvenir People are very
friendly as usual
From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae
Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an
average speed of 15 km hour
Halfway we jump out of the car into a river
Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to
keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn
but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around
without it
Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome
us and are gladly willing to allow us to make
photographs and film them
In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early
morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises
For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum
After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark
Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon
So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team
ChinatownBangkok
Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese
people in big cities around the world
Manhattan San Francisco Manilla
Paris and Boston have them and
more keep being officially recognised
in their role as historical and touristic
center every year Even places like
Dubai and Las Vegas have modern
day versions of this phenomenon
As soon as you pass under one of the famous
large red entrance arches you arrive in a
complete different world
A world that is paradise for photographers
A couple of the photographers in the Thai
Guru team decided to spend some time in the
Bangkok version of Chinatown
If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for
some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at
Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim
Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat
SLEEPY NANA dream destination
Relatively unknown and uncrowded
Nan has it all This gem of a province
hides an abundance of cultural and
natural attractions ancient temples
pristine forests rivers mountain
peaks but what strikes you most is
its omnipresent feel of an untroubled
authentic way of life
Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings
you this genuine feel in pictures and footage
For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of
Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant
nature and the nature of its people show
Thailand - as is often said before hordes of
tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas
it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan
managed to escape this proces but will it stay
that way Nan shares most of its border with
neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening
of the border and beyond towards China it is to
be expected that it will ultimately become an
important gateway for trade and tourism
Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town
and the countryside will enchant you and the natural
cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy
for at least a couple of days The town along the banks
of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base
to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night
life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous
temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue
influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The
great surroundings can best be explored by renting a
motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo
Much of the province is devoted to farming
Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still
being practised in areas of the province resulting
in a landscape where forests and fields alternate
Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside
of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature
peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich
natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the
province sees far fewer visitors than popular
neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You
can go white water rafting on the Wa River
along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim
National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay
overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes
Touring Nan
Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern
lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities
of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old
salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via
endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges
and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with
orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers
Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready
to be harvested broke through the green hills
giving a golden hue to the landscape
We encountered friendly villagers who worked
their way through the dry fields - meanwhile
singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to
supplement their meager incomes Despite their
hardship they showed us their heartwarming
hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes
with us
This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi
Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and
sparsely populated that we only passed two
cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos
difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand
nowadays
PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river
The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness
begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over
the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above
the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is
broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices
Then the carved image of a Naga becomes
visible above the water line followed by more
than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted
in red and gold colorshellip
During the year the remote provincial town
of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a
year for the annual spectacle of traditional
Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos
water artery The finals are held over two
days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos
banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite
team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in
Thailand yet relatively unknown
The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long
simple shelters where the massive dragon boats
are housed during the year Just once a year
they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos
most important sporting and social event The
event takes place right after the end of the
rainy season around early November when
water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at
their highest The colorful races are part of the
festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the
last day of Buddhist Lent in October
The narrow boats are made from massive
hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters
in length depending how many paddlers they
are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily
distinguishable by their use of bright colors and
mythical designs in the traditional local style
The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of
each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting
only the good ones to participate in their race
How to get there
Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is
connected by plane and by bus to the rest of
the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan
Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice
each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to
Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to
Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on
the service
Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan
(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8
hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)
The contestants of the races are classified into
three categories mdashlarge medium and small
boats Depending on their length each boat can
accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers
sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the
same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously
against the current to the frantic beating of a
drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern
The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying
their attempt to reach the finish line first and
the paddles churning up the river creates a
spectacular atmosphere
Son
g K
ran
in
Ch
ian
g M
ai
Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of
the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down
in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The
days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing
steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the
hot months of April and May The stifling mid-
day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out
unless necessary The buzz around town about
some festival called Song Kran is starting to
increase an underlying excitement rising
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
contact us
infothaigurumagazinecom
All videos in this magazine are
available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
Since establishing Thai Guru Magazine
we have been eager to take our
cameras to Khao Yai National Park
Having visited the area previously
I had already enjoyed the beauty
of Khao Yai and the abundance of
wildlife to be seen there and was keen
to share it with the rest of the team
Finally at the end of January we
jumped in the car for the long drive
south from
Chiang Mai
Three hours northeast of Bangkok Khao Yai
is the oldest and third largest national park
in Thailand Grasslands evergreen forests
monsoon forests and rain forests cover more
than 2000 square kilometres of this Unesco
World Heritage site
The park is teeming with wildlife Mammals
including elephant gibbon barking deer and
guar live within the parkrsquos borders The area
is also home to carnivores such as Asian wild
dogs and tigers as well as numerous reptiles and
amphibians including king cobras pythons and
monitor lizards Nearly 400 species of bird can
be found at Khao Yai Other attractions in this
trekkersrsquo paradise include several large waterfalls
The 20 metre Haew Suwat waterfall with is
deep pool was made famous by the film lsquoThe
Beachrsquo
Day 1The road leading to the gates of Khao Yai National Park is notable for its
numerous Italian influenced restaurants hotels and guesthouses A paradise
for pizza and pasta lovers there is even a small Italian-style village with ice-
cream parlours eateries and Italian themed guesthouses Almost immediately
after entering the park we were greeted by the sight of black giant squirrels
and pig tailed macaques clamouring in the canopy all around us Our first stop
was the visitor centre where we picked up a map of the park and other useful
information Outside were several sambar deer picking through restaurant
leftovers The rest of the day was spent exploring spots in which to set up
our cameras the following day We also made the first of several walks to the
observation tower adjacent to Nong Pak Chee reservoir As well as fabulous
views of the park the tower overlooks a saltlick where all manner of wildlife
gathers to suck up vital minerals and nutrients
Day 2Khao Yai is extremely popular with visitors and we could only
book lodging within its borders for the last two days of our trip
This meant an early start so we could get into the park in time to
shoot the sunrise We were the first visitors of the day and drove
to one of the places we had explored the day before We came
across what we thought was one of the many sambar or barking
deer that roam freely around the park We decided to take a
closer look only to find we had stumbled across an Asiatic black
bear half hidden in the morning mist Having spotted us after a
few minutes the handsome creature ambled off into the forest
The dawn had barely broken and our day was already a triumph
The rest of our time was spent following gibbons various varieties
deer and innumerable brightly coloured birds
Day 3Today we were fortunate to be allowed to move
ourselves and our equipment into government-
owned lodgings within the park Our first
mission was to set our cameras up at a place
where we had heard the heavy distinctive
rushing of wings and calls of hornbills (described
by some as sounding like the puffing of a steam
locomotive) the day before
We had expected a long wait but already had
our first shots of this impressive bird in the
can before breakfast We spent many hours
photographing hornbills macaque and other
wildlife
We even stumbled upon a pack of Asian wild
dogs gathered around the carcass of a recently
killed deer We thought our wildlife encounters
for the day were over as we sat down to enjoy
dinner only to be disturbed by scuffling sounds
behind our bungalow The noise was being
made by a pair of porcupines who were not in
the least afraid of us and actually attempted to
chase us away
Day 4The day was spent exploring the trails of Khao Yai and discovering among other wildlife a magnificent
crested serpent eagle As the afternoon drew to a close we decided to take one last trip to the watchtower
From here we witnessed the gathering of a large flock of hornbills We showed some of our footage to a
friendly ranger He was particularly interested in our bear shots We were thrilled to be told that it was very
rare to see a black bear even more so when we were informed that none of the rangers had seen one for
a number of months I decided to leave the tower to find a good place to photograph the sunset Within
a matter of minutes I heard someone scream ldquoBEARrdquo and was back up the stairs in seconds There below
us taking an evening stroll through the grass just metres from where we were perched was another much
younger black bear
Our trip could not have ended better Needless
to say Thai Guru thoroughly recommends a visit
to Khao Yai National Park As already mentioned
the park is popular with both local and foreign
tourists especially on holidays and weekends
We advise that you try to visit during the week
when the park is quieter and the chance of
seeing the amazing wildlife is greater
The park has two camping grounds as well as a
few bungalows that can be booked through the
Department of National Parks Wildlife and Plant
Conservation These need to be booked well
in advance However there are also plenty of
guesthouses and hotels are to be found along
the parkrsquos boundaries
Festival of LanternsThe enchanting atmosphere of Loi Krathong
The weather is cooling down and itrsquos
that time of year again when we all
take to the waterways of Thailand and
give praise to Khongkha the water
Goddess who took care of abundant
rainfall in the past raining season
Donrsquot miss this joyful celebration with
its enchanting atmosphere that brings
one and all in Thailand together
much like Songkran
Thailandrsquos lsquoFestival of Lightsrsquo is celebrated
throughout the kingdom on the night of the
November full moon The end of the rainy
season heralds the coolest months in the
countryrsquos calendar when the river waters are
also supposed to be at their highest
Superstition replaces religion on this night as
thousands flock to the banks of the swollen
rivers and canals to release khratongs floating
tributes to the river spirits and Mother Water ndash
Phra Mae Khongkha In recent years the festival
has been revived in the ancient temples of
Thailandrsquos former capital Sukhothai
Visitors assemble in the Sukhothai Historical
Park with their banana leaf khratongs decorated
with flowers incense sticks and candles to take
part in a ceremony that dates back centuries
Sometimes a coin is added as gift to the spirits
The pretty rafts are then released onto the lake
with a wish
It was once believed that Loi Khratong
was actually created in Sukhothai by Nang
Nopphamas a lady of the court and consort
of the king In fact the celebration was adapted
by Thai Buddhists from a Brahmanical festival
adapted to honour Buddha
The khratong is meant to be a light on the
darkness of the water for Buddha A personrsquos
sins and negative thoughts are also believed to
float away with the colourful little raft Try adding
a lock of your hair for extra luck
Nearly 20 of the Northern provinces will be
showing off a dazzling selection of floats in the
Royal Khratongs Procession as well as holding a
Miss Nopphamat beauty contest
A competition is held for the most beautifully
designed khratong as well as plenty of other
Sukhothai arts and cultural performances
The Light-and-Sound Presentation at Wat
Mahathat explains the history and origins of
Sukhothai and Loi Khratong through dance
music prayer combat displays light effects and
fireworks No Loi Khratong would be complete
without fireworks and thankfully the Thais are
not shy when it comes to blowing things up in
the sky
Tra Kuan pond is the place to be for the floating
of the Royal Khratongs followed by more
firmament-filling pyrotechnics Wat Chana
Songkram is the venue for the Mahachat
sermon Khon Marked Dance and a Thai
classical music performance
Thai Guru decided to travel from Chiang Mai
to Sukhotai for this yearrsquos festivities Although
the heavens decided to open for most of the
celebrations on the final day the rain could not
dampen the celebrations and the spectacle was
jaw dropping
The only thing that was missing due to the rain
was a sky filled with khom loi the sky lanterns
usually released into the firmament in their
hundreds
Although the festivities officially last for the best
part of a week it is the last three days that are
the busiest
Visitors can join in with a range of activities
including fruit carving or just wander around the
historic park listening to live traditional music
watching Thai martial arts or join the parade
of dancers musicians and beauty contestants
all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured
costumes
There are numerous places to stay for the
duration of the festival but it is advisable to
book ahead if you can because this is a very
popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north
from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai
Chiang Mai Temples
A visit to a temple in Thailand is
unavoidable They are everywhere
We at Thai Guru are well aware that
because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can
quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang
Mai With this in mind (and because
the city is overflowing with hundreds
of them) we have chosen a few of
our favourites we hope are slightly
alternative to the ones on the usual
tourist itinerary
Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to
the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its
latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of
the skills of the local silversmiths Like many
of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was
established several centuries ago The ubosoth
or ordination hall is an intricately designed
silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in
the sunlight
The area around Wua Lai has been the home to
silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past
couple of centuries who are famed throughout
the kingdom for creating detailed embossed
relief patterns on the objects they create
something that is immediately evident and
celebrated at Wat Srisuphan
The larger more traditionally decorated red blue
and gold prayer hall also contains impressive
silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos
life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft
museum
Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the
artisans at work and the temple has its own
silver-working school where apprentices are
trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive
Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved
in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-
robed residents of the temple improve their
linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also
available
Unfortunately women are not allowed to
enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this
is explained on a sign outside the wording of
which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in
the monastic boundary many precious things
incantations amulets and other holy objects
were buried over 500 years ago Entering
inside this area may deteriorated the place or
otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most
of the interior can be appreciated from the
doorway
Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous
for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged
Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai
Due to its being less well advertised than its
neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham
is often a more peaceful temple from which
to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang
Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist
Lent when the place was alive with worshippers
Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once
the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic
giants Following a visit from the Buddha the
giants decided to mend their ways stop eating
their neighbours and convert to Buddhism
For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and
offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the
templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally
constructed towards the end of the 7th century
Although the temple fell into disrepair over the
centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered
a chamber containing a number of Buddha
images The discovery led to the revitalisation of
this mountain top temple
The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are
guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured
sword-wielding warriors The courtyard
overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and
bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of
food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the
road leading to the temple
Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-
west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek
and easily accessible by car or taxi
Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai
was being established the name translates
as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably
because it was used to cast Buddha images for
its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The
entrance to the temple is through a small but
intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos
assembly hall is notable because it is one of the
only viharns of its type constructed solely from
teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a
superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock
astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference
to the king who once used the wooden hall as
his palace The gilded image features mythical
creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured
glass
The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite
from the busy road outside Wooden boxes
contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm
leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a
large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors
Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks
like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a
small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less
imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo
temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru
recommends a quick visit if you are passing
Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous
temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi
Luang
The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the
largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it
was damaged either by an earthquake in the
16th century or cannon fire from the guns
of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese
in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO
funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps
up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga
serpents and a group of five elephants (only the
one without a trunk or ears partially survived
whatever caused the structure to collapse the
others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi
was also once home to one of the most revered
religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald
Buddha Although the original now resides in
Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and
once again looks out over the city from a niche
on the east side of the structure
Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and
now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly
hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance
is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a
great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar
housed in a building at the base of the tree
Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although
one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few
alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed
Mae Hong Son
It is said that Mae Hong Son is the
most authentic and mountainous
province of Thailand For Thai Guru a
good reason to explore this province
side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai
province
Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of
Thailand The northern most part of this
province is at a distance of 924 km from
Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province
in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son
borders Myanmar On the south and east side it
borders Tak and Chiang Mai province
We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast
on the 108 road The scenery is woody and
mountainous so far so good And as we leave
the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek
for wildlife and beautiful landscapes
The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage
is that our average speed drops to less than
15 km hour No worries when you do trips
like these the clock stops and the only thing
on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning
landscapes that unfold before your eyes
The main road is well paved But as you might
understand we regularly go off road
This is the best way to come into contact with
locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo
While we are standing somewhere taking in the
beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a
falcon calling
A short walk through the forrest the sound
stops and we decide to sit down for some
water and well earned rest After a short while I
hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo
There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters
above us a white rumped falcon
Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras
it stays there and even when we start making
noises because we want to film it in flight it
takes itrsquos time
Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of
Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They
cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more
Of course they also have their own cattle And
walking through one of their small villages they
are very friendly and hospitable
It has to be said it is never smart to enter
a community or people with your camera
as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask
the people if they mind if you taking their
photograph or want to film their daily life
In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to
the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean
and offers a nice variety food on the terrace
with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city
where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists
Really nice to stroll down the walking street and
find food or a nice souvenir People are very
friendly as usual
From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae
Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an
average speed of 15 km hour
Halfway we jump out of the car into a river
Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to
keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn
but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around
without it
Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome
us and are gladly willing to allow us to make
photographs and film them
In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early
morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises
For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum
After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark
Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon
So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team
ChinatownBangkok
Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese
people in big cities around the world
Manhattan San Francisco Manilla
Paris and Boston have them and
more keep being officially recognised
in their role as historical and touristic
center every year Even places like
Dubai and Las Vegas have modern
day versions of this phenomenon
As soon as you pass under one of the famous
large red entrance arches you arrive in a
complete different world
A world that is paradise for photographers
A couple of the photographers in the Thai
Guru team decided to spend some time in the
Bangkok version of Chinatown
If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for
some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at
Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim
Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat
SLEEPY NANA dream destination
Relatively unknown and uncrowded
Nan has it all This gem of a province
hides an abundance of cultural and
natural attractions ancient temples
pristine forests rivers mountain
peaks but what strikes you most is
its omnipresent feel of an untroubled
authentic way of life
Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings
you this genuine feel in pictures and footage
For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of
Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant
nature and the nature of its people show
Thailand - as is often said before hordes of
tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas
it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan
managed to escape this proces but will it stay
that way Nan shares most of its border with
neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening
of the border and beyond towards China it is to
be expected that it will ultimately become an
important gateway for trade and tourism
Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town
and the countryside will enchant you and the natural
cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy
for at least a couple of days The town along the banks
of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base
to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night
life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous
temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue
influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The
great surroundings can best be explored by renting a
motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo
Much of the province is devoted to farming
Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still
being practised in areas of the province resulting
in a landscape where forests and fields alternate
Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside
of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature
peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich
natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the
province sees far fewer visitors than popular
neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You
can go white water rafting on the Wa River
along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim
National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay
overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes
Touring Nan
Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern
lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities
of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old
salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via
endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges
and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with
orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers
Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready
to be harvested broke through the green hills
giving a golden hue to the landscape
We encountered friendly villagers who worked
their way through the dry fields - meanwhile
singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to
supplement their meager incomes Despite their
hardship they showed us their heartwarming
hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes
with us
This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi
Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and
sparsely populated that we only passed two
cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos
difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand
nowadays
PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river
The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness
begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over
the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above
the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is
broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices
Then the carved image of a Naga becomes
visible above the water line followed by more
than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted
in red and gold colorshellip
During the year the remote provincial town
of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a
year for the annual spectacle of traditional
Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos
water artery The finals are held over two
days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos
banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite
team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in
Thailand yet relatively unknown
The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long
simple shelters where the massive dragon boats
are housed during the year Just once a year
they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos
most important sporting and social event The
event takes place right after the end of the
rainy season around early November when
water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at
their highest The colorful races are part of the
festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the
last day of Buddhist Lent in October
The narrow boats are made from massive
hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters
in length depending how many paddlers they
are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily
distinguishable by their use of bright colors and
mythical designs in the traditional local style
The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of
each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting
only the good ones to participate in their race
How to get there
Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is
connected by plane and by bus to the rest of
the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan
Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice
each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to
Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to
Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on
the service
Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan
(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8
hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)
The contestants of the races are classified into
three categories mdashlarge medium and small
boats Depending on their length each boat can
accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers
sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the
same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously
against the current to the frantic beating of a
drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern
The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying
their attempt to reach the finish line first and
the paddles churning up the river creates a
spectacular atmosphere
Son
g K
ran
in
Ch
ian
g M
ai
Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of
the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down
in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The
days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing
steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the
hot months of April and May The stifling mid-
day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out
unless necessary The buzz around town about
some festival called Song Kran is starting to
increase an underlying excitement rising
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
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To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
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infothaigurumagazinecom
All videos in this magazine are
available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
Three hours northeast of Bangkok Khao Yai
is the oldest and third largest national park
in Thailand Grasslands evergreen forests
monsoon forests and rain forests cover more
than 2000 square kilometres of this Unesco
World Heritage site
The park is teeming with wildlife Mammals
including elephant gibbon barking deer and
guar live within the parkrsquos borders The area
is also home to carnivores such as Asian wild
dogs and tigers as well as numerous reptiles and
amphibians including king cobras pythons and
monitor lizards Nearly 400 species of bird can
be found at Khao Yai Other attractions in this
trekkersrsquo paradise include several large waterfalls
The 20 metre Haew Suwat waterfall with is
deep pool was made famous by the film lsquoThe
Beachrsquo
Day 1The road leading to the gates of Khao Yai National Park is notable for its
numerous Italian influenced restaurants hotels and guesthouses A paradise
for pizza and pasta lovers there is even a small Italian-style village with ice-
cream parlours eateries and Italian themed guesthouses Almost immediately
after entering the park we were greeted by the sight of black giant squirrels
and pig tailed macaques clamouring in the canopy all around us Our first stop
was the visitor centre where we picked up a map of the park and other useful
information Outside were several sambar deer picking through restaurant
leftovers The rest of the day was spent exploring spots in which to set up
our cameras the following day We also made the first of several walks to the
observation tower adjacent to Nong Pak Chee reservoir As well as fabulous
views of the park the tower overlooks a saltlick where all manner of wildlife
gathers to suck up vital minerals and nutrients
Day 2Khao Yai is extremely popular with visitors and we could only
book lodging within its borders for the last two days of our trip
This meant an early start so we could get into the park in time to
shoot the sunrise We were the first visitors of the day and drove
to one of the places we had explored the day before We came
across what we thought was one of the many sambar or barking
deer that roam freely around the park We decided to take a
closer look only to find we had stumbled across an Asiatic black
bear half hidden in the morning mist Having spotted us after a
few minutes the handsome creature ambled off into the forest
The dawn had barely broken and our day was already a triumph
The rest of our time was spent following gibbons various varieties
deer and innumerable brightly coloured birds
Day 3Today we were fortunate to be allowed to move
ourselves and our equipment into government-
owned lodgings within the park Our first
mission was to set our cameras up at a place
where we had heard the heavy distinctive
rushing of wings and calls of hornbills (described
by some as sounding like the puffing of a steam
locomotive) the day before
We had expected a long wait but already had
our first shots of this impressive bird in the
can before breakfast We spent many hours
photographing hornbills macaque and other
wildlife
We even stumbled upon a pack of Asian wild
dogs gathered around the carcass of a recently
killed deer We thought our wildlife encounters
for the day were over as we sat down to enjoy
dinner only to be disturbed by scuffling sounds
behind our bungalow The noise was being
made by a pair of porcupines who were not in
the least afraid of us and actually attempted to
chase us away
Day 4The day was spent exploring the trails of Khao Yai and discovering among other wildlife a magnificent
crested serpent eagle As the afternoon drew to a close we decided to take one last trip to the watchtower
From here we witnessed the gathering of a large flock of hornbills We showed some of our footage to a
friendly ranger He was particularly interested in our bear shots We were thrilled to be told that it was very
rare to see a black bear even more so when we were informed that none of the rangers had seen one for
a number of months I decided to leave the tower to find a good place to photograph the sunset Within
a matter of minutes I heard someone scream ldquoBEARrdquo and was back up the stairs in seconds There below
us taking an evening stroll through the grass just metres from where we were perched was another much
younger black bear
Our trip could not have ended better Needless
to say Thai Guru thoroughly recommends a visit
to Khao Yai National Park As already mentioned
the park is popular with both local and foreign
tourists especially on holidays and weekends
We advise that you try to visit during the week
when the park is quieter and the chance of
seeing the amazing wildlife is greater
The park has two camping grounds as well as a
few bungalows that can be booked through the
Department of National Parks Wildlife and Plant
Conservation These need to be booked well
in advance However there are also plenty of
guesthouses and hotels are to be found along
the parkrsquos boundaries
Festival of LanternsThe enchanting atmosphere of Loi Krathong
The weather is cooling down and itrsquos
that time of year again when we all
take to the waterways of Thailand and
give praise to Khongkha the water
Goddess who took care of abundant
rainfall in the past raining season
Donrsquot miss this joyful celebration with
its enchanting atmosphere that brings
one and all in Thailand together
much like Songkran
Thailandrsquos lsquoFestival of Lightsrsquo is celebrated
throughout the kingdom on the night of the
November full moon The end of the rainy
season heralds the coolest months in the
countryrsquos calendar when the river waters are
also supposed to be at their highest
Superstition replaces religion on this night as
thousands flock to the banks of the swollen
rivers and canals to release khratongs floating
tributes to the river spirits and Mother Water ndash
Phra Mae Khongkha In recent years the festival
has been revived in the ancient temples of
Thailandrsquos former capital Sukhothai
Visitors assemble in the Sukhothai Historical
Park with their banana leaf khratongs decorated
with flowers incense sticks and candles to take
part in a ceremony that dates back centuries
Sometimes a coin is added as gift to the spirits
The pretty rafts are then released onto the lake
with a wish
It was once believed that Loi Khratong
was actually created in Sukhothai by Nang
Nopphamas a lady of the court and consort
of the king In fact the celebration was adapted
by Thai Buddhists from a Brahmanical festival
adapted to honour Buddha
The khratong is meant to be a light on the
darkness of the water for Buddha A personrsquos
sins and negative thoughts are also believed to
float away with the colourful little raft Try adding
a lock of your hair for extra luck
Nearly 20 of the Northern provinces will be
showing off a dazzling selection of floats in the
Royal Khratongs Procession as well as holding a
Miss Nopphamat beauty contest
A competition is held for the most beautifully
designed khratong as well as plenty of other
Sukhothai arts and cultural performances
The Light-and-Sound Presentation at Wat
Mahathat explains the history and origins of
Sukhothai and Loi Khratong through dance
music prayer combat displays light effects and
fireworks No Loi Khratong would be complete
without fireworks and thankfully the Thais are
not shy when it comes to blowing things up in
the sky
Tra Kuan pond is the place to be for the floating
of the Royal Khratongs followed by more
firmament-filling pyrotechnics Wat Chana
Songkram is the venue for the Mahachat
sermon Khon Marked Dance and a Thai
classical music performance
Thai Guru decided to travel from Chiang Mai
to Sukhotai for this yearrsquos festivities Although
the heavens decided to open for most of the
celebrations on the final day the rain could not
dampen the celebrations and the spectacle was
jaw dropping
The only thing that was missing due to the rain
was a sky filled with khom loi the sky lanterns
usually released into the firmament in their
hundreds
Although the festivities officially last for the best
part of a week it is the last three days that are
the busiest
Visitors can join in with a range of activities
including fruit carving or just wander around the
historic park listening to live traditional music
watching Thai martial arts or join the parade
of dancers musicians and beauty contestants
all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured
costumes
There are numerous places to stay for the
duration of the festival but it is advisable to
book ahead if you can because this is a very
popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north
from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai
Chiang Mai Temples
A visit to a temple in Thailand is
unavoidable They are everywhere
We at Thai Guru are well aware that
because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can
quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang
Mai With this in mind (and because
the city is overflowing with hundreds
of them) we have chosen a few of
our favourites we hope are slightly
alternative to the ones on the usual
tourist itinerary
Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to
the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its
latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of
the skills of the local silversmiths Like many
of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was
established several centuries ago The ubosoth
or ordination hall is an intricately designed
silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in
the sunlight
The area around Wua Lai has been the home to
silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past
couple of centuries who are famed throughout
the kingdom for creating detailed embossed
relief patterns on the objects they create
something that is immediately evident and
celebrated at Wat Srisuphan
The larger more traditionally decorated red blue
and gold prayer hall also contains impressive
silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos
life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft
museum
Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the
artisans at work and the temple has its own
silver-working school where apprentices are
trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive
Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved
in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-
robed residents of the temple improve their
linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also
available
Unfortunately women are not allowed to
enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this
is explained on a sign outside the wording of
which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in
the monastic boundary many precious things
incantations amulets and other holy objects
were buried over 500 years ago Entering
inside this area may deteriorated the place or
otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most
of the interior can be appreciated from the
doorway
Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous
for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged
Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai
Due to its being less well advertised than its
neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham
is often a more peaceful temple from which
to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang
Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist
Lent when the place was alive with worshippers
Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once
the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic
giants Following a visit from the Buddha the
giants decided to mend their ways stop eating
their neighbours and convert to Buddhism
For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and
offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the
templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally
constructed towards the end of the 7th century
Although the temple fell into disrepair over the
centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered
a chamber containing a number of Buddha
images The discovery led to the revitalisation of
this mountain top temple
The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are
guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured
sword-wielding warriors The courtyard
overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and
bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of
food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the
road leading to the temple
Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-
west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek
and easily accessible by car or taxi
Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai
was being established the name translates
as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably
because it was used to cast Buddha images for
its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The
entrance to the temple is through a small but
intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos
assembly hall is notable because it is one of the
only viharns of its type constructed solely from
teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a
superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock
astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference
to the king who once used the wooden hall as
his palace The gilded image features mythical
creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured
glass
The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite
from the busy road outside Wooden boxes
contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm
leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a
large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors
Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks
like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a
small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less
imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo
temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru
recommends a quick visit if you are passing
Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous
temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi
Luang
The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the
largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it
was damaged either by an earthquake in the
16th century or cannon fire from the guns
of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese
in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO
funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps
up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga
serpents and a group of five elephants (only the
one without a trunk or ears partially survived
whatever caused the structure to collapse the
others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi
was also once home to one of the most revered
religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald
Buddha Although the original now resides in
Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and
once again looks out over the city from a niche
on the east side of the structure
Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and
now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly
hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance
is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a
great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar
housed in a building at the base of the tree
Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although
one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few
alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed
Mae Hong Son
It is said that Mae Hong Son is the
most authentic and mountainous
province of Thailand For Thai Guru a
good reason to explore this province
side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai
province
Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of
Thailand The northern most part of this
province is at a distance of 924 km from
Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province
in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son
borders Myanmar On the south and east side it
borders Tak and Chiang Mai province
We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast
on the 108 road The scenery is woody and
mountainous so far so good And as we leave
the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek
for wildlife and beautiful landscapes
The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage
is that our average speed drops to less than
15 km hour No worries when you do trips
like these the clock stops and the only thing
on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning
landscapes that unfold before your eyes
The main road is well paved But as you might
understand we regularly go off road
This is the best way to come into contact with
locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo
While we are standing somewhere taking in the
beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a
falcon calling
A short walk through the forrest the sound
stops and we decide to sit down for some
water and well earned rest After a short while I
hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo
There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters
above us a white rumped falcon
Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras
it stays there and even when we start making
noises because we want to film it in flight it
takes itrsquos time
Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of
Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They
cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more
Of course they also have their own cattle And
walking through one of their small villages they
are very friendly and hospitable
It has to be said it is never smart to enter
a community or people with your camera
as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask
the people if they mind if you taking their
photograph or want to film their daily life
In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to
the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean
and offers a nice variety food on the terrace
with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city
where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists
Really nice to stroll down the walking street and
find food or a nice souvenir People are very
friendly as usual
From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae
Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an
average speed of 15 km hour
Halfway we jump out of the car into a river
Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to
keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn
but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around
without it
Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome
us and are gladly willing to allow us to make
photographs and film them
In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early
morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises
For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum
After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark
Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon
So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team
ChinatownBangkok
Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese
people in big cities around the world
Manhattan San Francisco Manilla
Paris and Boston have them and
more keep being officially recognised
in their role as historical and touristic
center every year Even places like
Dubai and Las Vegas have modern
day versions of this phenomenon
As soon as you pass under one of the famous
large red entrance arches you arrive in a
complete different world
A world that is paradise for photographers
A couple of the photographers in the Thai
Guru team decided to spend some time in the
Bangkok version of Chinatown
If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for
some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at
Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim
Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat
SLEEPY NANA dream destination
Relatively unknown and uncrowded
Nan has it all This gem of a province
hides an abundance of cultural and
natural attractions ancient temples
pristine forests rivers mountain
peaks but what strikes you most is
its omnipresent feel of an untroubled
authentic way of life
Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings
you this genuine feel in pictures and footage
For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of
Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant
nature and the nature of its people show
Thailand - as is often said before hordes of
tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas
it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan
managed to escape this proces but will it stay
that way Nan shares most of its border with
neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening
of the border and beyond towards China it is to
be expected that it will ultimately become an
important gateway for trade and tourism
Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town
and the countryside will enchant you and the natural
cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy
for at least a couple of days The town along the banks
of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base
to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night
life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous
temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue
influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The
great surroundings can best be explored by renting a
motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo
Much of the province is devoted to farming
Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still
being practised in areas of the province resulting
in a landscape where forests and fields alternate
Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside
of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature
peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich
natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the
province sees far fewer visitors than popular
neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You
can go white water rafting on the Wa River
along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim
National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay
overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes
Touring Nan
Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern
lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities
of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old
salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via
endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges
and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with
orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers
Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready
to be harvested broke through the green hills
giving a golden hue to the landscape
We encountered friendly villagers who worked
their way through the dry fields - meanwhile
singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to
supplement their meager incomes Despite their
hardship they showed us their heartwarming
hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes
with us
This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi
Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and
sparsely populated that we only passed two
cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos
difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand
nowadays
PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river
The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness
begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over
the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above
the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is
broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices
Then the carved image of a Naga becomes
visible above the water line followed by more
than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted
in red and gold colorshellip
During the year the remote provincial town
of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a
year for the annual spectacle of traditional
Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos
water artery The finals are held over two
days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos
banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite
team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in
Thailand yet relatively unknown
The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long
simple shelters where the massive dragon boats
are housed during the year Just once a year
they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos
most important sporting and social event The
event takes place right after the end of the
rainy season around early November when
water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at
their highest The colorful races are part of the
festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the
last day of Buddhist Lent in October
The narrow boats are made from massive
hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters
in length depending how many paddlers they
are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily
distinguishable by their use of bright colors and
mythical designs in the traditional local style
The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of
each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting
only the good ones to participate in their race
How to get there
Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is
connected by plane and by bus to the rest of
the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan
Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice
each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to
Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to
Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on
the service
Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan
(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8
hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)
The contestants of the races are classified into
three categories mdashlarge medium and small
boats Depending on their length each boat can
accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers
sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the
same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously
against the current to the frantic beating of a
drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern
The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying
their attempt to reach the finish line first and
the paddles churning up the river creates a
spectacular atmosphere
Son
g K
ran
in
Ch
ian
g M
ai
Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of
the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down
in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The
days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing
steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the
hot months of April and May The stifling mid-
day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out
unless necessary The buzz around town about
some festival called Song Kran is starting to
increase an underlying excitement rising
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
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To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
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infothaigurumagazinecom
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available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
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The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
Day 1The road leading to the gates of Khao Yai National Park is notable for its
numerous Italian influenced restaurants hotels and guesthouses A paradise
for pizza and pasta lovers there is even a small Italian-style village with ice-
cream parlours eateries and Italian themed guesthouses Almost immediately
after entering the park we were greeted by the sight of black giant squirrels
and pig tailed macaques clamouring in the canopy all around us Our first stop
was the visitor centre where we picked up a map of the park and other useful
information Outside were several sambar deer picking through restaurant
leftovers The rest of the day was spent exploring spots in which to set up
our cameras the following day We also made the first of several walks to the
observation tower adjacent to Nong Pak Chee reservoir As well as fabulous
views of the park the tower overlooks a saltlick where all manner of wildlife
gathers to suck up vital minerals and nutrients
Day 2Khao Yai is extremely popular with visitors and we could only
book lodging within its borders for the last two days of our trip
This meant an early start so we could get into the park in time to
shoot the sunrise We were the first visitors of the day and drove
to one of the places we had explored the day before We came
across what we thought was one of the many sambar or barking
deer that roam freely around the park We decided to take a
closer look only to find we had stumbled across an Asiatic black
bear half hidden in the morning mist Having spotted us after a
few minutes the handsome creature ambled off into the forest
The dawn had barely broken and our day was already a triumph
The rest of our time was spent following gibbons various varieties
deer and innumerable brightly coloured birds
Day 3Today we were fortunate to be allowed to move
ourselves and our equipment into government-
owned lodgings within the park Our first
mission was to set our cameras up at a place
where we had heard the heavy distinctive
rushing of wings and calls of hornbills (described
by some as sounding like the puffing of a steam
locomotive) the day before
We had expected a long wait but already had
our first shots of this impressive bird in the
can before breakfast We spent many hours
photographing hornbills macaque and other
wildlife
We even stumbled upon a pack of Asian wild
dogs gathered around the carcass of a recently
killed deer We thought our wildlife encounters
for the day were over as we sat down to enjoy
dinner only to be disturbed by scuffling sounds
behind our bungalow The noise was being
made by a pair of porcupines who were not in
the least afraid of us and actually attempted to
chase us away
Day 4The day was spent exploring the trails of Khao Yai and discovering among other wildlife a magnificent
crested serpent eagle As the afternoon drew to a close we decided to take one last trip to the watchtower
From here we witnessed the gathering of a large flock of hornbills We showed some of our footage to a
friendly ranger He was particularly interested in our bear shots We were thrilled to be told that it was very
rare to see a black bear even more so when we were informed that none of the rangers had seen one for
a number of months I decided to leave the tower to find a good place to photograph the sunset Within
a matter of minutes I heard someone scream ldquoBEARrdquo and was back up the stairs in seconds There below
us taking an evening stroll through the grass just metres from where we were perched was another much
younger black bear
Our trip could not have ended better Needless
to say Thai Guru thoroughly recommends a visit
to Khao Yai National Park As already mentioned
the park is popular with both local and foreign
tourists especially on holidays and weekends
We advise that you try to visit during the week
when the park is quieter and the chance of
seeing the amazing wildlife is greater
The park has two camping grounds as well as a
few bungalows that can be booked through the
Department of National Parks Wildlife and Plant
Conservation These need to be booked well
in advance However there are also plenty of
guesthouses and hotels are to be found along
the parkrsquos boundaries
Festival of LanternsThe enchanting atmosphere of Loi Krathong
The weather is cooling down and itrsquos
that time of year again when we all
take to the waterways of Thailand and
give praise to Khongkha the water
Goddess who took care of abundant
rainfall in the past raining season
Donrsquot miss this joyful celebration with
its enchanting atmosphere that brings
one and all in Thailand together
much like Songkran
Thailandrsquos lsquoFestival of Lightsrsquo is celebrated
throughout the kingdom on the night of the
November full moon The end of the rainy
season heralds the coolest months in the
countryrsquos calendar when the river waters are
also supposed to be at their highest
Superstition replaces religion on this night as
thousands flock to the banks of the swollen
rivers and canals to release khratongs floating
tributes to the river spirits and Mother Water ndash
Phra Mae Khongkha In recent years the festival
has been revived in the ancient temples of
Thailandrsquos former capital Sukhothai
Visitors assemble in the Sukhothai Historical
Park with their banana leaf khratongs decorated
with flowers incense sticks and candles to take
part in a ceremony that dates back centuries
Sometimes a coin is added as gift to the spirits
The pretty rafts are then released onto the lake
with a wish
It was once believed that Loi Khratong
was actually created in Sukhothai by Nang
Nopphamas a lady of the court and consort
of the king In fact the celebration was adapted
by Thai Buddhists from a Brahmanical festival
adapted to honour Buddha
The khratong is meant to be a light on the
darkness of the water for Buddha A personrsquos
sins and negative thoughts are also believed to
float away with the colourful little raft Try adding
a lock of your hair for extra luck
Nearly 20 of the Northern provinces will be
showing off a dazzling selection of floats in the
Royal Khratongs Procession as well as holding a
Miss Nopphamat beauty contest
A competition is held for the most beautifully
designed khratong as well as plenty of other
Sukhothai arts and cultural performances
The Light-and-Sound Presentation at Wat
Mahathat explains the history and origins of
Sukhothai and Loi Khratong through dance
music prayer combat displays light effects and
fireworks No Loi Khratong would be complete
without fireworks and thankfully the Thais are
not shy when it comes to blowing things up in
the sky
Tra Kuan pond is the place to be for the floating
of the Royal Khratongs followed by more
firmament-filling pyrotechnics Wat Chana
Songkram is the venue for the Mahachat
sermon Khon Marked Dance and a Thai
classical music performance
Thai Guru decided to travel from Chiang Mai
to Sukhotai for this yearrsquos festivities Although
the heavens decided to open for most of the
celebrations on the final day the rain could not
dampen the celebrations and the spectacle was
jaw dropping
The only thing that was missing due to the rain
was a sky filled with khom loi the sky lanterns
usually released into the firmament in their
hundreds
Although the festivities officially last for the best
part of a week it is the last three days that are
the busiest
Visitors can join in with a range of activities
including fruit carving or just wander around the
historic park listening to live traditional music
watching Thai martial arts or join the parade
of dancers musicians and beauty contestants
all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured
costumes
There are numerous places to stay for the
duration of the festival but it is advisable to
book ahead if you can because this is a very
popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north
from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai
Chiang Mai Temples
A visit to a temple in Thailand is
unavoidable They are everywhere
We at Thai Guru are well aware that
because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can
quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang
Mai With this in mind (and because
the city is overflowing with hundreds
of them) we have chosen a few of
our favourites we hope are slightly
alternative to the ones on the usual
tourist itinerary
Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to
the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its
latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of
the skills of the local silversmiths Like many
of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was
established several centuries ago The ubosoth
or ordination hall is an intricately designed
silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in
the sunlight
The area around Wua Lai has been the home to
silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past
couple of centuries who are famed throughout
the kingdom for creating detailed embossed
relief patterns on the objects they create
something that is immediately evident and
celebrated at Wat Srisuphan
The larger more traditionally decorated red blue
and gold prayer hall also contains impressive
silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos
life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft
museum
Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the
artisans at work and the temple has its own
silver-working school where apprentices are
trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive
Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved
in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-
robed residents of the temple improve their
linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also
available
Unfortunately women are not allowed to
enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this
is explained on a sign outside the wording of
which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in
the monastic boundary many precious things
incantations amulets and other holy objects
were buried over 500 years ago Entering
inside this area may deteriorated the place or
otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most
of the interior can be appreciated from the
doorway
Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous
for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged
Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai
Due to its being less well advertised than its
neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham
is often a more peaceful temple from which
to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang
Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist
Lent when the place was alive with worshippers
Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once
the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic
giants Following a visit from the Buddha the
giants decided to mend their ways stop eating
their neighbours and convert to Buddhism
For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and
offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the
templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally
constructed towards the end of the 7th century
Although the temple fell into disrepair over the
centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered
a chamber containing a number of Buddha
images The discovery led to the revitalisation of
this mountain top temple
The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are
guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured
sword-wielding warriors The courtyard
overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and
bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of
food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the
road leading to the temple
Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-
west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek
and easily accessible by car or taxi
Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai
was being established the name translates
as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably
because it was used to cast Buddha images for
its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The
entrance to the temple is through a small but
intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos
assembly hall is notable because it is one of the
only viharns of its type constructed solely from
teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a
superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock
astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference
to the king who once used the wooden hall as
his palace The gilded image features mythical
creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured
glass
The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite
from the busy road outside Wooden boxes
contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm
leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a
large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors
Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks
like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a
small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less
imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo
temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru
recommends a quick visit if you are passing
Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous
temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi
Luang
The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the
largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it
was damaged either by an earthquake in the
16th century or cannon fire from the guns
of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese
in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO
funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps
up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga
serpents and a group of five elephants (only the
one without a trunk or ears partially survived
whatever caused the structure to collapse the
others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi
was also once home to one of the most revered
religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald
Buddha Although the original now resides in
Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and
once again looks out over the city from a niche
on the east side of the structure
Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and
now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly
hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance
is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a
great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar
housed in a building at the base of the tree
Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although
one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few
alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed
Mae Hong Son
It is said that Mae Hong Son is the
most authentic and mountainous
province of Thailand For Thai Guru a
good reason to explore this province
side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai
province
Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of
Thailand The northern most part of this
province is at a distance of 924 km from
Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province
in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son
borders Myanmar On the south and east side it
borders Tak and Chiang Mai province
We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast
on the 108 road The scenery is woody and
mountainous so far so good And as we leave
the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek
for wildlife and beautiful landscapes
The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage
is that our average speed drops to less than
15 km hour No worries when you do trips
like these the clock stops and the only thing
on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning
landscapes that unfold before your eyes
The main road is well paved But as you might
understand we regularly go off road
This is the best way to come into contact with
locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo
While we are standing somewhere taking in the
beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a
falcon calling
A short walk through the forrest the sound
stops and we decide to sit down for some
water and well earned rest After a short while I
hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo
There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters
above us a white rumped falcon
Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras
it stays there and even when we start making
noises because we want to film it in flight it
takes itrsquos time
Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of
Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They
cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more
Of course they also have their own cattle And
walking through one of their small villages they
are very friendly and hospitable
It has to be said it is never smart to enter
a community or people with your camera
as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask
the people if they mind if you taking their
photograph or want to film their daily life
In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to
the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean
and offers a nice variety food on the terrace
with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city
where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists
Really nice to stroll down the walking street and
find food or a nice souvenir People are very
friendly as usual
From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae
Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an
average speed of 15 km hour
Halfway we jump out of the car into a river
Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to
keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn
but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around
without it
Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome
us and are gladly willing to allow us to make
photographs and film them
In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early
morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises
For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum
After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark
Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon
So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team
ChinatownBangkok
Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese
people in big cities around the world
Manhattan San Francisco Manilla
Paris and Boston have them and
more keep being officially recognised
in their role as historical and touristic
center every year Even places like
Dubai and Las Vegas have modern
day versions of this phenomenon
As soon as you pass under one of the famous
large red entrance arches you arrive in a
complete different world
A world that is paradise for photographers
A couple of the photographers in the Thai
Guru team decided to spend some time in the
Bangkok version of Chinatown
If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for
some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at
Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim
Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat
SLEEPY NANA dream destination
Relatively unknown and uncrowded
Nan has it all This gem of a province
hides an abundance of cultural and
natural attractions ancient temples
pristine forests rivers mountain
peaks but what strikes you most is
its omnipresent feel of an untroubled
authentic way of life
Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings
you this genuine feel in pictures and footage
For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of
Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant
nature and the nature of its people show
Thailand - as is often said before hordes of
tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas
it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan
managed to escape this proces but will it stay
that way Nan shares most of its border with
neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening
of the border and beyond towards China it is to
be expected that it will ultimately become an
important gateway for trade and tourism
Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town
and the countryside will enchant you and the natural
cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy
for at least a couple of days The town along the banks
of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base
to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night
life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous
temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue
influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The
great surroundings can best be explored by renting a
motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo
Much of the province is devoted to farming
Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still
being practised in areas of the province resulting
in a landscape where forests and fields alternate
Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside
of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature
peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich
natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the
province sees far fewer visitors than popular
neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You
can go white water rafting on the Wa River
along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim
National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay
overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes
Touring Nan
Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern
lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities
of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old
salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via
endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges
and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with
orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers
Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready
to be harvested broke through the green hills
giving a golden hue to the landscape
We encountered friendly villagers who worked
their way through the dry fields - meanwhile
singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to
supplement their meager incomes Despite their
hardship they showed us their heartwarming
hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes
with us
This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi
Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and
sparsely populated that we only passed two
cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos
difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand
nowadays
PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river
The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness
begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over
the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above
the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is
broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices
Then the carved image of a Naga becomes
visible above the water line followed by more
than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted
in red and gold colorshellip
During the year the remote provincial town
of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a
year for the annual spectacle of traditional
Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos
water artery The finals are held over two
days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos
banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite
team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in
Thailand yet relatively unknown
The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long
simple shelters where the massive dragon boats
are housed during the year Just once a year
they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos
most important sporting and social event The
event takes place right after the end of the
rainy season around early November when
water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at
their highest The colorful races are part of the
festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the
last day of Buddhist Lent in October
The narrow boats are made from massive
hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters
in length depending how many paddlers they
are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily
distinguishable by their use of bright colors and
mythical designs in the traditional local style
The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of
each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting
only the good ones to participate in their race
How to get there
Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is
connected by plane and by bus to the rest of
the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan
Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice
each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to
Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to
Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on
the service
Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan
(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8
hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)
The contestants of the races are classified into
three categories mdashlarge medium and small
boats Depending on their length each boat can
accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers
sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the
same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously
against the current to the frantic beating of a
drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern
The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying
their attempt to reach the finish line first and
the paddles churning up the river creates a
spectacular atmosphere
Son
g K
ran
in
Ch
ian
g M
ai
Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of
the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down
in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The
days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing
steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the
hot months of April and May The stifling mid-
day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out
unless necessary The buzz around town about
some festival called Song Kran is starting to
increase an underlying excitement rising
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
contact us
infothaigurumagazinecom
All videos in this magazine are
available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
Day 2Khao Yai is extremely popular with visitors and we could only
book lodging within its borders for the last two days of our trip
This meant an early start so we could get into the park in time to
shoot the sunrise We were the first visitors of the day and drove
to one of the places we had explored the day before We came
across what we thought was one of the many sambar or barking
deer that roam freely around the park We decided to take a
closer look only to find we had stumbled across an Asiatic black
bear half hidden in the morning mist Having spotted us after a
few minutes the handsome creature ambled off into the forest
The dawn had barely broken and our day was already a triumph
The rest of our time was spent following gibbons various varieties
deer and innumerable brightly coloured birds
Day 3Today we were fortunate to be allowed to move
ourselves and our equipment into government-
owned lodgings within the park Our first
mission was to set our cameras up at a place
where we had heard the heavy distinctive
rushing of wings and calls of hornbills (described
by some as sounding like the puffing of a steam
locomotive) the day before
We had expected a long wait but already had
our first shots of this impressive bird in the
can before breakfast We spent many hours
photographing hornbills macaque and other
wildlife
We even stumbled upon a pack of Asian wild
dogs gathered around the carcass of a recently
killed deer We thought our wildlife encounters
for the day were over as we sat down to enjoy
dinner only to be disturbed by scuffling sounds
behind our bungalow The noise was being
made by a pair of porcupines who were not in
the least afraid of us and actually attempted to
chase us away
Day 4The day was spent exploring the trails of Khao Yai and discovering among other wildlife a magnificent
crested serpent eagle As the afternoon drew to a close we decided to take one last trip to the watchtower
From here we witnessed the gathering of a large flock of hornbills We showed some of our footage to a
friendly ranger He was particularly interested in our bear shots We were thrilled to be told that it was very
rare to see a black bear even more so when we were informed that none of the rangers had seen one for
a number of months I decided to leave the tower to find a good place to photograph the sunset Within
a matter of minutes I heard someone scream ldquoBEARrdquo and was back up the stairs in seconds There below
us taking an evening stroll through the grass just metres from where we were perched was another much
younger black bear
Our trip could not have ended better Needless
to say Thai Guru thoroughly recommends a visit
to Khao Yai National Park As already mentioned
the park is popular with both local and foreign
tourists especially on holidays and weekends
We advise that you try to visit during the week
when the park is quieter and the chance of
seeing the amazing wildlife is greater
The park has two camping grounds as well as a
few bungalows that can be booked through the
Department of National Parks Wildlife and Plant
Conservation These need to be booked well
in advance However there are also plenty of
guesthouses and hotels are to be found along
the parkrsquos boundaries
Festival of LanternsThe enchanting atmosphere of Loi Krathong
The weather is cooling down and itrsquos
that time of year again when we all
take to the waterways of Thailand and
give praise to Khongkha the water
Goddess who took care of abundant
rainfall in the past raining season
Donrsquot miss this joyful celebration with
its enchanting atmosphere that brings
one and all in Thailand together
much like Songkran
Thailandrsquos lsquoFestival of Lightsrsquo is celebrated
throughout the kingdom on the night of the
November full moon The end of the rainy
season heralds the coolest months in the
countryrsquos calendar when the river waters are
also supposed to be at their highest
Superstition replaces religion on this night as
thousands flock to the banks of the swollen
rivers and canals to release khratongs floating
tributes to the river spirits and Mother Water ndash
Phra Mae Khongkha In recent years the festival
has been revived in the ancient temples of
Thailandrsquos former capital Sukhothai
Visitors assemble in the Sukhothai Historical
Park with their banana leaf khratongs decorated
with flowers incense sticks and candles to take
part in a ceremony that dates back centuries
Sometimes a coin is added as gift to the spirits
The pretty rafts are then released onto the lake
with a wish
It was once believed that Loi Khratong
was actually created in Sukhothai by Nang
Nopphamas a lady of the court and consort
of the king In fact the celebration was adapted
by Thai Buddhists from a Brahmanical festival
adapted to honour Buddha
The khratong is meant to be a light on the
darkness of the water for Buddha A personrsquos
sins and negative thoughts are also believed to
float away with the colourful little raft Try adding
a lock of your hair for extra luck
Nearly 20 of the Northern provinces will be
showing off a dazzling selection of floats in the
Royal Khratongs Procession as well as holding a
Miss Nopphamat beauty contest
A competition is held for the most beautifully
designed khratong as well as plenty of other
Sukhothai arts and cultural performances
The Light-and-Sound Presentation at Wat
Mahathat explains the history and origins of
Sukhothai and Loi Khratong through dance
music prayer combat displays light effects and
fireworks No Loi Khratong would be complete
without fireworks and thankfully the Thais are
not shy when it comes to blowing things up in
the sky
Tra Kuan pond is the place to be for the floating
of the Royal Khratongs followed by more
firmament-filling pyrotechnics Wat Chana
Songkram is the venue for the Mahachat
sermon Khon Marked Dance and a Thai
classical music performance
Thai Guru decided to travel from Chiang Mai
to Sukhotai for this yearrsquos festivities Although
the heavens decided to open for most of the
celebrations on the final day the rain could not
dampen the celebrations and the spectacle was
jaw dropping
The only thing that was missing due to the rain
was a sky filled with khom loi the sky lanterns
usually released into the firmament in their
hundreds
Although the festivities officially last for the best
part of a week it is the last three days that are
the busiest
Visitors can join in with a range of activities
including fruit carving or just wander around the
historic park listening to live traditional music
watching Thai martial arts or join the parade
of dancers musicians and beauty contestants
all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured
costumes
There are numerous places to stay for the
duration of the festival but it is advisable to
book ahead if you can because this is a very
popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north
from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai
Chiang Mai Temples
A visit to a temple in Thailand is
unavoidable They are everywhere
We at Thai Guru are well aware that
because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can
quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang
Mai With this in mind (and because
the city is overflowing with hundreds
of them) we have chosen a few of
our favourites we hope are slightly
alternative to the ones on the usual
tourist itinerary
Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to
the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its
latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of
the skills of the local silversmiths Like many
of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was
established several centuries ago The ubosoth
or ordination hall is an intricately designed
silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in
the sunlight
The area around Wua Lai has been the home to
silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past
couple of centuries who are famed throughout
the kingdom for creating detailed embossed
relief patterns on the objects they create
something that is immediately evident and
celebrated at Wat Srisuphan
The larger more traditionally decorated red blue
and gold prayer hall also contains impressive
silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos
life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft
museum
Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the
artisans at work and the temple has its own
silver-working school where apprentices are
trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive
Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved
in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-
robed residents of the temple improve their
linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also
available
Unfortunately women are not allowed to
enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this
is explained on a sign outside the wording of
which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in
the monastic boundary many precious things
incantations amulets and other holy objects
were buried over 500 years ago Entering
inside this area may deteriorated the place or
otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most
of the interior can be appreciated from the
doorway
Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous
for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged
Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai
Due to its being less well advertised than its
neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham
is often a more peaceful temple from which
to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang
Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist
Lent when the place was alive with worshippers
Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once
the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic
giants Following a visit from the Buddha the
giants decided to mend their ways stop eating
their neighbours and convert to Buddhism
For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and
offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the
templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally
constructed towards the end of the 7th century
Although the temple fell into disrepair over the
centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered
a chamber containing a number of Buddha
images The discovery led to the revitalisation of
this mountain top temple
The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are
guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured
sword-wielding warriors The courtyard
overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and
bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of
food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the
road leading to the temple
Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-
west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek
and easily accessible by car or taxi
Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai
was being established the name translates
as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably
because it was used to cast Buddha images for
its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The
entrance to the temple is through a small but
intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos
assembly hall is notable because it is one of the
only viharns of its type constructed solely from
teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a
superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock
astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference
to the king who once used the wooden hall as
his palace The gilded image features mythical
creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured
glass
The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite
from the busy road outside Wooden boxes
contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm
leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a
large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors
Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks
like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a
small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less
imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo
temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru
recommends a quick visit if you are passing
Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous
temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi
Luang
The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the
largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it
was damaged either by an earthquake in the
16th century or cannon fire from the guns
of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese
in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO
funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps
up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga
serpents and a group of five elephants (only the
one without a trunk or ears partially survived
whatever caused the structure to collapse the
others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi
was also once home to one of the most revered
religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald
Buddha Although the original now resides in
Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and
once again looks out over the city from a niche
on the east side of the structure
Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and
now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly
hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance
is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a
great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar
housed in a building at the base of the tree
Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although
one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few
alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed
Mae Hong Son
It is said that Mae Hong Son is the
most authentic and mountainous
province of Thailand For Thai Guru a
good reason to explore this province
side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai
province
Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of
Thailand The northern most part of this
province is at a distance of 924 km from
Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province
in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son
borders Myanmar On the south and east side it
borders Tak and Chiang Mai province
We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast
on the 108 road The scenery is woody and
mountainous so far so good And as we leave
the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek
for wildlife and beautiful landscapes
The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage
is that our average speed drops to less than
15 km hour No worries when you do trips
like these the clock stops and the only thing
on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning
landscapes that unfold before your eyes
The main road is well paved But as you might
understand we regularly go off road
This is the best way to come into contact with
locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo
While we are standing somewhere taking in the
beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a
falcon calling
A short walk through the forrest the sound
stops and we decide to sit down for some
water and well earned rest After a short while I
hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo
There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters
above us a white rumped falcon
Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras
it stays there and even when we start making
noises because we want to film it in flight it
takes itrsquos time
Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of
Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They
cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more
Of course they also have their own cattle And
walking through one of their small villages they
are very friendly and hospitable
It has to be said it is never smart to enter
a community or people with your camera
as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask
the people if they mind if you taking their
photograph or want to film their daily life
In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to
the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean
and offers a nice variety food on the terrace
with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city
where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists
Really nice to stroll down the walking street and
find food or a nice souvenir People are very
friendly as usual
From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae
Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an
average speed of 15 km hour
Halfway we jump out of the car into a river
Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to
keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn
but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around
without it
Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome
us and are gladly willing to allow us to make
photographs and film them
In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early
morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises
For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum
After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark
Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon
So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team
ChinatownBangkok
Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese
people in big cities around the world
Manhattan San Francisco Manilla
Paris and Boston have them and
more keep being officially recognised
in their role as historical and touristic
center every year Even places like
Dubai and Las Vegas have modern
day versions of this phenomenon
As soon as you pass under one of the famous
large red entrance arches you arrive in a
complete different world
A world that is paradise for photographers
A couple of the photographers in the Thai
Guru team decided to spend some time in the
Bangkok version of Chinatown
If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for
some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at
Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim
Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat
SLEEPY NANA dream destination
Relatively unknown and uncrowded
Nan has it all This gem of a province
hides an abundance of cultural and
natural attractions ancient temples
pristine forests rivers mountain
peaks but what strikes you most is
its omnipresent feel of an untroubled
authentic way of life
Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings
you this genuine feel in pictures and footage
For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of
Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant
nature and the nature of its people show
Thailand - as is often said before hordes of
tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas
it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan
managed to escape this proces but will it stay
that way Nan shares most of its border with
neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening
of the border and beyond towards China it is to
be expected that it will ultimately become an
important gateway for trade and tourism
Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town
and the countryside will enchant you and the natural
cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy
for at least a couple of days The town along the banks
of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base
to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night
life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous
temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue
influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The
great surroundings can best be explored by renting a
motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo
Much of the province is devoted to farming
Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still
being practised in areas of the province resulting
in a landscape where forests and fields alternate
Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside
of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature
peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich
natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the
province sees far fewer visitors than popular
neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You
can go white water rafting on the Wa River
along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim
National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay
overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes
Touring Nan
Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern
lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities
of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old
salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via
endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges
and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with
orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers
Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready
to be harvested broke through the green hills
giving a golden hue to the landscape
We encountered friendly villagers who worked
their way through the dry fields - meanwhile
singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to
supplement their meager incomes Despite their
hardship they showed us their heartwarming
hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes
with us
This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi
Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and
sparsely populated that we only passed two
cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos
difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand
nowadays
PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river
The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness
begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over
the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above
the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is
broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices
Then the carved image of a Naga becomes
visible above the water line followed by more
than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted
in red and gold colorshellip
During the year the remote provincial town
of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a
year for the annual spectacle of traditional
Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos
water artery The finals are held over two
days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos
banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite
team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in
Thailand yet relatively unknown
The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long
simple shelters where the massive dragon boats
are housed during the year Just once a year
they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos
most important sporting and social event The
event takes place right after the end of the
rainy season around early November when
water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at
their highest The colorful races are part of the
festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the
last day of Buddhist Lent in October
The narrow boats are made from massive
hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters
in length depending how many paddlers they
are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily
distinguishable by their use of bright colors and
mythical designs in the traditional local style
The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of
each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting
only the good ones to participate in their race
How to get there
Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is
connected by plane and by bus to the rest of
the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan
Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice
each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to
Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to
Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on
the service
Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan
(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8
hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)
The contestants of the races are classified into
three categories mdashlarge medium and small
boats Depending on their length each boat can
accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers
sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the
same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously
against the current to the frantic beating of a
drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern
The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying
their attempt to reach the finish line first and
the paddles churning up the river creates a
spectacular atmosphere
Son
g K
ran
in
Ch
ian
g M
ai
Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of
the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down
in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The
days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing
steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the
hot months of April and May The stifling mid-
day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out
unless necessary The buzz around town about
some festival called Song Kran is starting to
increase an underlying excitement rising
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
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infothaigurumagazinecom
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available in HD on our youtube channel
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Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
Day 3Today we were fortunate to be allowed to move
ourselves and our equipment into government-
owned lodgings within the park Our first
mission was to set our cameras up at a place
where we had heard the heavy distinctive
rushing of wings and calls of hornbills (described
by some as sounding like the puffing of a steam
locomotive) the day before
We had expected a long wait but already had
our first shots of this impressive bird in the
can before breakfast We spent many hours
photographing hornbills macaque and other
wildlife
We even stumbled upon a pack of Asian wild
dogs gathered around the carcass of a recently
killed deer We thought our wildlife encounters
for the day were over as we sat down to enjoy
dinner only to be disturbed by scuffling sounds
behind our bungalow The noise was being
made by a pair of porcupines who were not in
the least afraid of us and actually attempted to
chase us away
Day 4The day was spent exploring the trails of Khao Yai and discovering among other wildlife a magnificent
crested serpent eagle As the afternoon drew to a close we decided to take one last trip to the watchtower
From here we witnessed the gathering of a large flock of hornbills We showed some of our footage to a
friendly ranger He was particularly interested in our bear shots We were thrilled to be told that it was very
rare to see a black bear even more so when we were informed that none of the rangers had seen one for
a number of months I decided to leave the tower to find a good place to photograph the sunset Within
a matter of minutes I heard someone scream ldquoBEARrdquo and was back up the stairs in seconds There below
us taking an evening stroll through the grass just metres from where we were perched was another much
younger black bear
Our trip could not have ended better Needless
to say Thai Guru thoroughly recommends a visit
to Khao Yai National Park As already mentioned
the park is popular with both local and foreign
tourists especially on holidays and weekends
We advise that you try to visit during the week
when the park is quieter and the chance of
seeing the amazing wildlife is greater
The park has two camping grounds as well as a
few bungalows that can be booked through the
Department of National Parks Wildlife and Plant
Conservation These need to be booked well
in advance However there are also plenty of
guesthouses and hotels are to be found along
the parkrsquos boundaries
Festival of LanternsThe enchanting atmosphere of Loi Krathong
The weather is cooling down and itrsquos
that time of year again when we all
take to the waterways of Thailand and
give praise to Khongkha the water
Goddess who took care of abundant
rainfall in the past raining season
Donrsquot miss this joyful celebration with
its enchanting atmosphere that brings
one and all in Thailand together
much like Songkran
Thailandrsquos lsquoFestival of Lightsrsquo is celebrated
throughout the kingdom on the night of the
November full moon The end of the rainy
season heralds the coolest months in the
countryrsquos calendar when the river waters are
also supposed to be at their highest
Superstition replaces religion on this night as
thousands flock to the banks of the swollen
rivers and canals to release khratongs floating
tributes to the river spirits and Mother Water ndash
Phra Mae Khongkha In recent years the festival
has been revived in the ancient temples of
Thailandrsquos former capital Sukhothai
Visitors assemble in the Sukhothai Historical
Park with their banana leaf khratongs decorated
with flowers incense sticks and candles to take
part in a ceremony that dates back centuries
Sometimes a coin is added as gift to the spirits
The pretty rafts are then released onto the lake
with a wish
It was once believed that Loi Khratong
was actually created in Sukhothai by Nang
Nopphamas a lady of the court and consort
of the king In fact the celebration was adapted
by Thai Buddhists from a Brahmanical festival
adapted to honour Buddha
The khratong is meant to be a light on the
darkness of the water for Buddha A personrsquos
sins and negative thoughts are also believed to
float away with the colourful little raft Try adding
a lock of your hair for extra luck
Nearly 20 of the Northern provinces will be
showing off a dazzling selection of floats in the
Royal Khratongs Procession as well as holding a
Miss Nopphamat beauty contest
A competition is held for the most beautifully
designed khratong as well as plenty of other
Sukhothai arts and cultural performances
The Light-and-Sound Presentation at Wat
Mahathat explains the history and origins of
Sukhothai and Loi Khratong through dance
music prayer combat displays light effects and
fireworks No Loi Khratong would be complete
without fireworks and thankfully the Thais are
not shy when it comes to blowing things up in
the sky
Tra Kuan pond is the place to be for the floating
of the Royal Khratongs followed by more
firmament-filling pyrotechnics Wat Chana
Songkram is the venue for the Mahachat
sermon Khon Marked Dance and a Thai
classical music performance
Thai Guru decided to travel from Chiang Mai
to Sukhotai for this yearrsquos festivities Although
the heavens decided to open for most of the
celebrations on the final day the rain could not
dampen the celebrations and the spectacle was
jaw dropping
The only thing that was missing due to the rain
was a sky filled with khom loi the sky lanterns
usually released into the firmament in their
hundreds
Although the festivities officially last for the best
part of a week it is the last three days that are
the busiest
Visitors can join in with a range of activities
including fruit carving or just wander around the
historic park listening to live traditional music
watching Thai martial arts or join the parade
of dancers musicians and beauty contestants
all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured
costumes
There are numerous places to stay for the
duration of the festival but it is advisable to
book ahead if you can because this is a very
popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north
from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai
Chiang Mai Temples
A visit to a temple in Thailand is
unavoidable They are everywhere
We at Thai Guru are well aware that
because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can
quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang
Mai With this in mind (and because
the city is overflowing with hundreds
of them) we have chosen a few of
our favourites we hope are slightly
alternative to the ones on the usual
tourist itinerary
Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to
the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its
latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of
the skills of the local silversmiths Like many
of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was
established several centuries ago The ubosoth
or ordination hall is an intricately designed
silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in
the sunlight
The area around Wua Lai has been the home to
silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past
couple of centuries who are famed throughout
the kingdom for creating detailed embossed
relief patterns on the objects they create
something that is immediately evident and
celebrated at Wat Srisuphan
The larger more traditionally decorated red blue
and gold prayer hall also contains impressive
silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos
life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft
museum
Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the
artisans at work and the temple has its own
silver-working school where apprentices are
trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive
Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved
in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-
robed residents of the temple improve their
linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also
available
Unfortunately women are not allowed to
enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this
is explained on a sign outside the wording of
which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in
the monastic boundary many precious things
incantations amulets and other holy objects
were buried over 500 years ago Entering
inside this area may deteriorated the place or
otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most
of the interior can be appreciated from the
doorway
Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous
for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged
Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai
Due to its being less well advertised than its
neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham
is often a more peaceful temple from which
to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang
Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist
Lent when the place was alive with worshippers
Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once
the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic
giants Following a visit from the Buddha the
giants decided to mend their ways stop eating
their neighbours and convert to Buddhism
For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and
offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the
templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally
constructed towards the end of the 7th century
Although the temple fell into disrepair over the
centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered
a chamber containing a number of Buddha
images The discovery led to the revitalisation of
this mountain top temple
The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are
guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured
sword-wielding warriors The courtyard
overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and
bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of
food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the
road leading to the temple
Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-
west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek
and easily accessible by car or taxi
Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai
was being established the name translates
as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably
because it was used to cast Buddha images for
its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The
entrance to the temple is through a small but
intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos
assembly hall is notable because it is one of the
only viharns of its type constructed solely from
teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a
superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock
astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference
to the king who once used the wooden hall as
his palace The gilded image features mythical
creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured
glass
The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite
from the busy road outside Wooden boxes
contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm
leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a
large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors
Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks
like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a
small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less
imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo
temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru
recommends a quick visit if you are passing
Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous
temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi
Luang
The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the
largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it
was damaged either by an earthquake in the
16th century or cannon fire from the guns
of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese
in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO
funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps
up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga
serpents and a group of five elephants (only the
one without a trunk or ears partially survived
whatever caused the structure to collapse the
others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi
was also once home to one of the most revered
religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald
Buddha Although the original now resides in
Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and
once again looks out over the city from a niche
on the east side of the structure
Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and
now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly
hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance
is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a
great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar
housed in a building at the base of the tree
Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although
one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few
alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed
Mae Hong Son
It is said that Mae Hong Son is the
most authentic and mountainous
province of Thailand For Thai Guru a
good reason to explore this province
side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai
province
Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of
Thailand The northern most part of this
province is at a distance of 924 km from
Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province
in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son
borders Myanmar On the south and east side it
borders Tak and Chiang Mai province
We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast
on the 108 road The scenery is woody and
mountainous so far so good And as we leave
the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek
for wildlife and beautiful landscapes
The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage
is that our average speed drops to less than
15 km hour No worries when you do trips
like these the clock stops and the only thing
on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning
landscapes that unfold before your eyes
The main road is well paved But as you might
understand we regularly go off road
This is the best way to come into contact with
locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo
While we are standing somewhere taking in the
beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a
falcon calling
A short walk through the forrest the sound
stops and we decide to sit down for some
water and well earned rest After a short while I
hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo
There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters
above us a white rumped falcon
Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras
it stays there and even when we start making
noises because we want to film it in flight it
takes itrsquos time
Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of
Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They
cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more
Of course they also have their own cattle And
walking through one of their small villages they
are very friendly and hospitable
It has to be said it is never smart to enter
a community or people with your camera
as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask
the people if they mind if you taking their
photograph or want to film their daily life
In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to
the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean
and offers a nice variety food on the terrace
with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city
where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists
Really nice to stroll down the walking street and
find food or a nice souvenir People are very
friendly as usual
From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae
Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an
average speed of 15 km hour
Halfway we jump out of the car into a river
Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to
keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn
but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around
without it
Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome
us and are gladly willing to allow us to make
photographs and film them
In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early
morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises
For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum
After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark
Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon
So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team
ChinatownBangkok
Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese
people in big cities around the world
Manhattan San Francisco Manilla
Paris and Boston have them and
more keep being officially recognised
in their role as historical and touristic
center every year Even places like
Dubai and Las Vegas have modern
day versions of this phenomenon
As soon as you pass under one of the famous
large red entrance arches you arrive in a
complete different world
A world that is paradise for photographers
A couple of the photographers in the Thai
Guru team decided to spend some time in the
Bangkok version of Chinatown
If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for
some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at
Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim
Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat
SLEEPY NANA dream destination
Relatively unknown and uncrowded
Nan has it all This gem of a province
hides an abundance of cultural and
natural attractions ancient temples
pristine forests rivers mountain
peaks but what strikes you most is
its omnipresent feel of an untroubled
authentic way of life
Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings
you this genuine feel in pictures and footage
For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of
Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant
nature and the nature of its people show
Thailand - as is often said before hordes of
tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas
it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan
managed to escape this proces but will it stay
that way Nan shares most of its border with
neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening
of the border and beyond towards China it is to
be expected that it will ultimately become an
important gateway for trade and tourism
Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town
and the countryside will enchant you and the natural
cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy
for at least a couple of days The town along the banks
of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base
to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night
life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous
temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue
influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The
great surroundings can best be explored by renting a
motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo
Much of the province is devoted to farming
Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still
being practised in areas of the province resulting
in a landscape where forests and fields alternate
Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside
of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature
peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich
natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the
province sees far fewer visitors than popular
neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You
can go white water rafting on the Wa River
along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim
National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay
overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes
Touring Nan
Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern
lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities
of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old
salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via
endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges
and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with
orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers
Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready
to be harvested broke through the green hills
giving a golden hue to the landscape
We encountered friendly villagers who worked
their way through the dry fields - meanwhile
singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to
supplement their meager incomes Despite their
hardship they showed us their heartwarming
hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes
with us
This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi
Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and
sparsely populated that we only passed two
cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos
difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand
nowadays
PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river
The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness
begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over
the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above
the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is
broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices
Then the carved image of a Naga becomes
visible above the water line followed by more
than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted
in red and gold colorshellip
During the year the remote provincial town
of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a
year for the annual spectacle of traditional
Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos
water artery The finals are held over two
days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos
banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite
team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in
Thailand yet relatively unknown
The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long
simple shelters where the massive dragon boats
are housed during the year Just once a year
they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos
most important sporting and social event The
event takes place right after the end of the
rainy season around early November when
water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at
their highest The colorful races are part of the
festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the
last day of Buddhist Lent in October
The narrow boats are made from massive
hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters
in length depending how many paddlers they
are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily
distinguishable by their use of bright colors and
mythical designs in the traditional local style
The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of
each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting
only the good ones to participate in their race
How to get there
Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is
connected by plane and by bus to the rest of
the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan
Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice
each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to
Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to
Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on
the service
Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan
(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8
hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)
The contestants of the races are classified into
three categories mdashlarge medium and small
boats Depending on their length each boat can
accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers
sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the
same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously
against the current to the frantic beating of a
drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern
The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying
their attempt to reach the finish line first and
the paddles churning up the river creates a
spectacular atmosphere
Son
g K
ran
in
Ch
ian
g M
ai
Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of
the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down
in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The
days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing
steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the
hot months of April and May The stifling mid-
day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out
unless necessary The buzz around town about
some festival called Song Kran is starting to
increase an underlying excitement rising
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
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infothaigurumagazinecom
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available in HD on our youtube channel
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Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
Day 4The day was spent exploring the trails of Khao Yai and discovering among other wildlife a magnificent
crested serpent eagle As the afternoon drew to a close we decided to take one last trip to the watchtower
From here we witnessed the gathering of a large flock of hornbills We showed some of our footage to a
friendly ranger He was particularly interested in our bear shots We were thrilled to be told that it was very
rare to see a black bear even more so when we were informed that none of the rangers had seen one for
a number of months I decided to leave the tower to find a good place to photograph the sunset Within
a matter of minutes I heard someone scream ldquoBEARrdquo and was back up the stairs in seconds There below
us taking an evening stroll through the grass just metres from where we were perched was another much
younger black bear
Our trip could not have ended better Needless
to say Thai Guru thoroughly recommends a visit
to Khao Yai National Park As already mentioned
the park is popular with both local and foreign
tourists especially on holidays and weekends
We advise that you try to visit during the week
when the park is quieter and the chance of
seeing the amazing wildlife is greater
The park has two camping grounds as well as a
few bungalows that can be booked through the
Department of National Parks Wildlife and Plant
Conservation These need to be booked well
in advance However there are also plenty of
guesthouses and hotels are to be found along
the parkrsquos boundaries
Festival of LanternsThe enchanting atmosphere of Loi Krathong
The weather is cooling down and itrsquos
that time of year again when we all
take to the waterways of Thailand and
give praise to Khongkha the water
Goddess who took care of abundant
rainfall in the past raining season
Donrsquot miss this joyful celebration with
its enchanting atmosphere that brings
one and all in Thailand together
much like Songkran
Thailandrsquos lsquoFestival of Lightsrsquo is celebrated
throughout the kingdom on the night of the
November full moon The end of the rainy
season heralds the coolest months in the
countryrsquos calendar when the river waters are
also supposed to be at their highest
Superstition replaces religion on this night as
thousands flock to the banks of the swollen
rivers and canals to release khratongs floating
tributes to the river spirits and Mother Water ndash
Phra Mae Khongkha In recent years the festival
has been revived in the ancient temples of
Thailandrsquos former capital Sukhothai
Visitors assemble in the Sukhothai Historical
Park with their banana leaf khratongs decorated
with flowers incense sticks and candles to take
part in a ceremony that dates back centuries
Sometimes a coin is added as gift to the spirits
The pretty rafts are then released onto the lake
with a wish
It was once believed that Loi Khratong
was actually created in Sukhothai by Nang
Nopphamas a lady of the court and consort
of the king In fact the celebration was adapted
by Thai Buddhists from a Brahmanical festival
adapted to honour Buddha
The khratong is meant to be a light on the
darkness of the water for Buddha A personrsquos
sins and negative thoughts are also believed to
float away with the colourful little raft Try adding
a lock of your hair for extra luck
Nearly 20 of the Northern provinces will be
showing off a dazzling selection of floats in the
Royal Khratongs Procession as well as holding a
Miss Nopphamat beauty contest
A competition is held for the most beautifully
designed khratong as well as plenty of other
Sukhothai arts and cultural performances
The Light-and-Sound Presentation at Wat
Mahathat explains the history and origins of
Sukhothai and Loi Khratong through dance
music prayer combat displays light effects and
fireworks No Loi Khratong would be complete
without fireworks and thankfully the Thais are
not shy when it comes to blowing things up in
the sky
Tra Kuan pond is the place to be for the floating
of the Royal Khratongs followed by more
firmament-filling pyrotechnics Wat Chana
Songkram is the venue for the Mahachat
sermon Khon Marked Dance and a Thai
classical music performance
Thai Guru decided to travel from Chiang Mai
to Sukhotai for this yearrsquos festivities Although
the heavens decided to open for most of the
celebrations on the final day the rain could not
dampen the celebrations and the spectacle was
jaw dropping
The only thing that was missing due to the rain
was a sky filled with khom loi the sky lanterns
usually released into the firmament in their
hundreds
Although the festivities officially last for the best
part of a week it is the last three days that are
the busiest
Visitors can join in with a range of activities
including fruit carving or just wander around the
historic park listening to live traditional music
watching Thai martial arts or join the parade
of dancers musicians and beauty contestants
all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured
costumes
There are numerous places to stay for the
duration of the festival but it is advisable to
book ahead if you can because this is a very
popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north
from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai
Chiang Mai Temples
A visit to a temple in Thailand is
unavoidable They are everywhere
We at Thai Guru are well aware that
because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can
quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang
Mai With this in mind (and because
the city is overflowing with hundreds
of them) we have chosen a few of
our favourites we hope are slightly
alternative to the ones on the usual
tourist itinerary
Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to
the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its
latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of
the skills of the local silversmiths Like many
of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was
established several centuries ago The ubosoth
or ordination hall is an intricately designed
silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in
the sunlight
The area around Wua Lai has been the home to
silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past
couple of centuries who are famed throughout
the kingdom for creating detailed embossed
relief patterns on the objects they create
something that is immediately evident and
celebrated at Wat Srisuphan
The larger more traditionally decorated red blue
and gold prayer hall also contains impressive
silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos
life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft
museum
Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the
artisans at work and the temple has its own
silver-working school where apprentices are
trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive
Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved
in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-
robed residents of the temple improve their
linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also
available
Unfortunately women are not allowed to
enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this
is explained on a sign outside the wording of
which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in
the monastic boundary many precious things
incantations amulets and other holy objects
were buried over 500 years ago Entering
inside this area may deteriorated the place or
otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most
of the interior can be appreciated from the
doorway
Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous
for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged
Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai
Due to its being less well advertised than its
neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham
is often a more peaceful temple from which
to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang
Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist
Lent when the place was alive with worshippers
Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once
the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic
giants Following a visit from the Buddha the
giants decided to mend their ways stop eating
their neighbours and convert to Buddhism
For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and
offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the
templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally
constructed towards the end of the 7th century
Although the temple fell into disrepair over the
centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered
a chamber containing a number of Buddha
images The discovery led to the revitalisation of
this mountain top temple
The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are
guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured
sword-wielding warriors The courtyard
overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and
bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of
food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the
road leading to the temple
Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-
west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek
and easily accessible by car or taxi
Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai
was being established the name translates
as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably
because it was used to cast Buddha images for
its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The
entrance to the temple is through a small but
intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos
assembly hall is notable because it is one of the
only viharns of its type constructed solely from
teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a
superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock
astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference
to the king who once used the wooden hall as
his palace The gilded image features mythical
creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured
glass
The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite
from the busy road outside Wooden boxes
contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm
leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a
large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors
Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks
like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a
small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less
imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo
temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru
recommends a quick visit if you are passing
Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous
temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi
Luang
The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the
largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it
was damaged either by an earthquake in the
16th century or cannon fire from the guns
of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese
in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO
funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps
up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga
serpents and a group of five elephants (only the
one without a trunk or ears partially survived
whatever caused the structure to collapse the
others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi
was also once home to one of the most revered
religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald
Buddha Although the original now resides in
Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and
once again looks out over the city from a niche
on the east side of the structure
Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and
now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly
hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance
is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a
great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar
housed in a building at the base of the tree
Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although
one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few
alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed
Mae Hong Son
It is said that Mae Hong Son is the
most authentic and mountainous
province of Thailand For Thai Guru a
good reason to explore this province
side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai
province
Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of
Thailand The northern most part of this
province is at a distance of 924 km from
Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province
in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son
borders Myanmar On the south and east side it
borders Tak and Chiang Mai province
We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast
on the 108 road The scenery is woody and
mountainous so far so good And as we leave
the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek
for wildlife and beautiful landscapes
The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage
is that our average speed drops to less than
15 km hour No worries when you do trips
like these the clock stops and the only thing
on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning
landscapes that unfold before your eyes
The main road is well paved But as you might
understand we regularly go off road
This is the best way to come into contact with
locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo
While we are standing somewhere taking in the
beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a
falcon calling
A short walk through the forrest the sound
stops and we decide to sit down for some
water and well earned rest After a short while I
hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo
There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters
above us a white rumped falcon
Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras
it stays there and even when we start making
noises because we want to film it in flight it
takes itrsquos time
Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of
Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They
cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more
Of course they also have their own cattle And
walking through one of their small villages they
are very friendly and hospitable
It has to be said it is never smart to enter
a community or people with your camera
as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask
the people if they mind if you taking their
photograph or want to film their daily life
In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to
the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean
and offers a nice variety food on the terrace
with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city
where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists
Really nice to stroll down the walking street and
find food or a nice souvenir People are very
friendly as usual
From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae
Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an
average speed of 15 km hour
Halfway we jump out of the car into a river
Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to
keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn
but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around
without it
Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome
us and are gladly willing to allow us to make
photographs and film them
In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early
morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises
For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum
After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark
Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon
So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team
ChinatownBangkok
Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese
people in big cities around the world
Manhattan San Francisco Manilla
Paris and Boston have them and
more keep being officially recognised
in their role as historical and touristic
center every year Even places like
Dubai and Las Vegas have modern
day versions of this phenomenon
As soon as you pass under one of the famous
large red entrance arches you arrive in a
complete different world
A world that is paradise for photographers
A couple of the photographers in the Thai
Guru team decided to spend some time in the
Bangkok version of Chinatown
If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for
some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at
Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim
Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat
SLEEPY NANA dream destination
Relatively unknown and uncrowded
Nan has it all This gem of a province
hides an abundance of cultural and
natural attractions ancient temples
pristine forests rivers mountain
peaks but what strikes you most is
its omnipresent feel of an untroubled
authentic way of life
Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings
you this genuine feel in pictures and footage
For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of
Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant
nature and the nature of its people show
Thailand - as is often said before hordes of
tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas
it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan
managed to escape this proces but will it stay
that way Nan shares most of its border with
neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening
of the border and beyond towards China it is to
be expected that it will ultimately become an
important gateway for trade and tourism
Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town
and the countryside will enchant you and the natural
cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy
for at least a couple of days The town along the banks
of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base
to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night
life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous
temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue
influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The
great surroundings can best be explored by renting a
motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo
Much of the province is devoted to farming
Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still
being practised in areas of the province resulting
in a landscape where forests and fields alternate
Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside
of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature
peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich
natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the
province sees far fewer visitors than popular
neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You
can go white water rafting on the Wa River
along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim
National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay
overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes
Touring Nan
Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern
lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities
of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old
salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via
endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges
and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with
orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers
Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready
to be harvested broke through the green hills
giving a golden hue to the landscape
We encountered friendly villagers who worked
their way through the dry fields - meanwhile
singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to
supplement their meager incomes Despite their
hardship they showed us their heartwarming
hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes
with us
This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi
Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and
sparsely populated that we only passed two
cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos
difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand
nowadays
PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river
The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness
begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over
the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above
the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is
broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices
Then the carved image of a Naga becomes
visible above the water line followed by more
than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted
in red and gold colorshellip
During the year the remote provincial town
of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a
year for the annual spectacle of traditional
Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos
water artery The finals are held over two
days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos
banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite
team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in
Thailand yet relatively unknown
The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long
simple shelters where the massive dragon boats
are housed during the year Just once a year
they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos
most important sporting and social event The
event takes place right after the end of the
rainy season around early November when
water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at
their highest The colorful races are part of the
festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the
last day of Buddhist Lent in October
The narrow boats are made from massive
hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters
in length depending how many paddlers they
are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily
distinguishable by their use of bright colors and
mythical designs in the traditional local style
The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of
each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting
only the good ones to participate in their race
How to get there
Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is
connected by plane and by bus to the rest of
the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan
Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice
each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to
Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to
Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on
the service
Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan
(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8
hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)
The contestants of the races are classified into
three categories mdashlarge medium and small
boats Depending on their length each boat can
accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers
sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the
same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously
against the current to the frantic beating of a
drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern
The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying
their attempt to reach the finish line first and
the paddles churning up the river creates a
spectacular atmosphere
Son
g K
ran
in
Ch
ian
g M
ai
Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of
the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down
in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The
days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing
steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the
hot months of April and May The stifling mid-
day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out
unless necessary The buzz around town about
some festival called Song Kran is starting to
increase an underlying excitement rising
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
contact us
infothaigurumagazinecom
All videos in this magazine are
available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
Our trip could not have ended better Needless
to say Thai Guru thoroughly recommends a visit
to Khao Yai National Park As already mentioned
the park is popular with both local and foreign
tourists especially on holidays and weekends
We advise that you try to visit during the week
when the park is quieter and the chance of
seeing the amazing wildlife is greater
The park has two camping grounds as well as a
few bungalows that can be booked through the
Department of National Parks Wildlife and Plant
Conservation These need to be booked well
in advance However there are also plenty of
guesthouses and hotels are to be found along
the parkrsquos boundaries
Festival of LanternsThe enchanting atmosphere of Loi Krathong
The weather is cooling down and itrsquos
that time of year again when we all
take to the waterways of Thailand and
give praise to Khongkha the water
Goddess who took care of abundant
rainfall in the past raining season
Donrsquot miss this joyful celebration with
its enchanting atmosphere that brings
one and all in Thailand together
much like Songkran
Thailandrsquos lsquoFestival of Lightsrsquo is celebrated
throughout the kingdom on the night of the
November full moon The end of the rainy
season heralds the coolest months in the
countryrsquos calendar when the river waters are
also supposed to be at their highest
Superstition replaces religion on this night as
thousands flock to the banks of the swollen
rivers and canals to release khratongs floating
tributes to the river spirits and Mother Water ndash
Phra Mae Khongkha In recent years the festival
has been revived in the ancient temples of
Thailandrsquos former capital Sukhothai
Visitors assemble in the Sukhothai Historical
Park with their banana leaf khratongs decorated
with flowers incense sticks and candles to take
part in a ceremony that dates back centuries
Sometimes a coin is added as gift to the spirits
The pretty rafts are then released onto the lake
with a wish
It was once believed that Loi Khratong
was actually created in Sukhothai by Nang
Nopphamas a lady of the court and consort
of the king In fact the celebration was adapted
by Thai Buddhists from a Brahmanical festival
adapted to honour Buddha
The khratong is meant to be a light on the
darkness of the water for Buddha A personrsquos
sins and negative thoughts are also believed to
float away with the colourful little raft Try adding
a lock of your hair for extra luck
Nearly 20 of the Northern provinces will be
showing off a dazzling selection of floats in the
Royal Khratongs Procession as well as holding a
Miss Nopphamat beauty contest
A competition is held for the most beautifully
designed khratong as well as plenty of other
Sukhothai arts and cultural performances
The Light-and-Sound Presentation at Wat
Mahathat explains the history and origins of
Sukhothai and Loi Khratong through dance
music prayer combat displays light effects and
fireworks No Loi Khratong would be complete
without fireworks and thankfully the Thais are
not shy when it comes to blowing things up in
the sky
Tra Kuan pond is the place to be for the floating
of the Royal Khratongs followed by more
firmament-filling pyrotechnics Wat Chana
Songkram is the venue for the Mahachat
sermon Khon Marked Dance and a Thai
classical music performance
Thai Guru decided to travel from Chiang Mai
to Sukhotai for this yearrsquos festivities Although
the heavens decided to open for most of the
celebrations on the final day the rain could not
dampen the celebrations and the spectacle was
jaw dropping
The only thing that was missing due to the rain
was a sky filled with khom loi the sky lanterns
usually released into the firmament in their
hundreds
Although the festivities officially last for the best
part of a week it is the last three days that are
the busiest
Visitors can join in with a range of activities
including fruit carving or just wander around the
historic park listening to live traditional music
watching Thai martial arts or join the parade
of dancers musicians and beauty contestants
all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured
costumes
There are numerous places to stay for the
duration of the festival but it is advisable to
book ahead if you can because this is a very
popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north
from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai
Chiang Mai Temples
A visit to a temple in Thailand is
unavoidable They are everywhere
We at Thai Guru are well aware that
because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can
quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang
Mai With this in mind (and because
the city is overflowing with hundreds
of them) we have chosen a few of
our favourites we hope are slightly
alternative to the ones on the usual
tourist itinerary
Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to
the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its
latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of
the skills of the local silversmiths Like many
of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was
established several centuries ago The ubosoth
or ordination hall is an intricately designed
silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in
the sunlight
The area around Wua Lai has been the home to
silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past
couple of centuries who are famed throughout
the kingdom for creating detailed embossed
relief patterns on the objects they create
something that is immediately evident and
celebrated at Wat Srisuphan
The larger more traditionally decorated red blue
and gold prayer hall also contains impressive
silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos
life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft
museum
Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the
artisans at work and the temple has its own
silver-working school where apprentices are
trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive
Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved
in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-
robed residents of the temple improve their
linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also
available
Unfortunately women are not allowed to
enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this
is explained on a sign outside the wording of
which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in
the monastic boundary many precious things
incantations amulets and other holy objects
were buried over 500 years ago Entering
inside this area may deteriorated the place or
otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most
of the interior can be appreciated from the
doorway
Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous
for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged
Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai
Due to its being less well advertised than its
neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham
is often a more peaceful temple from which
to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang
Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist
Lent when the place was alive with worshippers
Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once
the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic
giants Following a visit from the Buddha the
giants decided to mend their ways stop eating
their neighbours and convert to Buddhism
For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and
offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the
templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally
constructed towards the end of the 7th century
Although the temple fell into disrepair over the
centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered
a chamber containing a number of Buddha
images The discovery led to the revitalisation of
this mountain top temple
The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are
guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured
sword-wielding warriors The courtyard
overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and
bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of
food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the
road leading to the temple
Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-
west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek
and easily accessible by car or taxi
Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai
was being established the name translates
as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably
because it was used to cast Buddha images for
its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The
entrance to the temple is through a small but
intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos
assembly hall is notable because it is one of the
only viharns of its type constructed solely from
teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a
superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock
astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference
to the king who once used the wooden hall as
his palace The gilded image features mythical
creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured
glass
The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite
from the busy road outside Wooden boxes
contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm
leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a
large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors
Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks
like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a
small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less
imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo
temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru
recommends a quick visit if you are passing
Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous
temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi
Luang
The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the
largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it
was damaged either by an earthquake in the
16th century or cannon fire from the guns
of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese
in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO
funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps
up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga
serpents and a group of five elephants (only the
one without a trunk or ears partially survived
whatever caused the structure to collapse the
others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi
was also once home to one of the most revered
religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald
Buddha Although the original now resides in
Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and
once again looks out over the city from a niche
on the east side of the structure
Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and
now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly
hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance
is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a
great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar
housed in a building at the base of the tree
Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although
one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few
alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed
Mae Hong Son
It is said that Mae Hong Son is the
most authentic and mountainous
province of Thailand For Thai Guru a
good reason to explore this province
side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai
province
Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of
Thailand The northern most part of this
province is at a distance of 924 km from
Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province
in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son
borders Myanmar On the south and east side it
borders Tak and Chiang Mai province
We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast
on the 108 road The scenery is woody and
mountainous so far so good And as we leave
the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek
for wildlife and beautiful landscapes
The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage
is that our average speed drops to less than
15 km hour No worries when you do trips
like these the clock stops and the only thing
on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning
landscapes that unfold before your eyes
The main road is well paved But as you might
understand we regularly go off road
This is the best way to come into contact with
locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo
While we are standing somewhere taking in the
beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a
falcon calling
A short walk through the forrest the sound
stops and we decide to sit down for some
water and well earned rest After a short while I
hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo
There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters
above us a white rumped falcon
Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras
it stays there and even when we start making
noises because we want to film it in flight it
takes itrsquos time
Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of
Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They
cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more
Of course they also have their own cattle And
walking through one of their small villages they
are very friendly and hospitable
It has to be said it is never smart to enter
a community or people with your camera
as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask
the people if they mind if you taking their
photograph or want to film their daily life
In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to
the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean
and offers a nice variety food on the terrace
with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city
where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists
Really nice to stroll down the walking street and
find food or a nice souvenir People are very
friendly as usual
From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae
Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an
average speed of 15 km hour
Halfway we jump out of the car into a river
Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to
keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn
but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around
without it
Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome
us and are gladly willing to allow us to make
photographs and film them
In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early
morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises
For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum
After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark
Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon
So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team
ChinatownBangkok
Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese
people in big cities around the world
Manhattan San Francisco Manilla
Paris and Boston have them and
more keep being officially recognised
in their role as historical and touristic
center every year Even places like
Dubai and Las Vegas have modern
day versions of this phenomenon
As soon as you pass under one of the famous
large red entrance arches you arrive in a
complete different world
A world that is paradise for photographers
A couple of the photographers in the Thai
Guru team decided to spend some time in the
Bangkok version of Chinatown
If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for
some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at
Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim
Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat
SLEEPY NANA dream destination
Relatively unknown and uncrowded
Nan has it all This gem of a province
hides an abundance of cultural and
natural attractions ancient temples
pristine forests rivers mountain
peaks but what strikes you most is
its omnipresent feel of an untroubled
authentic way of life
Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings
you this genuine feel in pictures and footage
For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of
Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant
nature and the nature of its people show
Thailand - as is often said before hordes of
tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas
it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan
managed to escape this proces but will it stay
that way Nan shares most of its border with
neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening
of the border and beyond towards China it is to
be expected that it will ultimately become an
important gateway for trade and tourism
Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town
and the countryside will enchant you and the natural
cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy
for at least a couple of days The town along the banks
of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base
to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night
life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous
temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue
influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The
great surroundings can best be explored by renting a
motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo
Much of the province is devoted to farming
Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still
being practised in areas of the province resulting
in a landscape where forests and fields alternate
Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside
of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature
peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich
natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the
province sees far fewer visitors than popular
neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You
can go white water rafting on the Wa River
along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim
National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay
overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes
Touring Nan
Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern
lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities
of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old
salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via
endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges
and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with
orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers
Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready
to be harvested broke through the green hills
giving a golden hue to the landscape
We encountered friendly villagers who worked
their way through the dry fields - meanwhile
singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to
supplement their meager incomes Despite their
hardship they showed us their heartwarming
hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes
with us
This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi
Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and
sparsely populated that we only passed two
cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos
difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand
nowadays
PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river
The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness
begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over
the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above
the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is
broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices
Then the carved image of a Naga becomes
visible above the water line followed by more
than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted
in red and gold colorshellip
During the year the remote provincial town
of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a
year for the annual spectacle of traditional
Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos
water artery The finals are held over two
days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos
banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite
team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in
Thailand yet relatively unknown
The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long
simple shelters where the massive dragon boats
are housed during the year Just once a year
they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos
most important sporting and social event The
event takes place right after the end of the
rainy season around early November when
water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at
their highest The colorful races are part of the
festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the
last day of Buddhist Lent in October
The narrow boats are made from massive
hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters
in length depending how many paddlers they
are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily
distinguishable by their use of bright colors and
mythical designs in the traditional local style
The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of
each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting
only the good ones to participate in their race
How to get there
Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is
connected by plane and by bus to the rest of
the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan
Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice
each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to
Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to
Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on
the service
Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan
(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8
hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)
The contestants of the races are classified into
three categories mdashlarge medium and small
boats Depending on their length each boat can
accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers
sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the
same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously
against the current to the frantic beating of a
drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern
The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying
their attempt to reach the finish line first and
the paddles churning up the river creates a
spectacular atmosphere
Son
g K
ran
in
Ch
ian
g M
ai
Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of
the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down
in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The
days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing
steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the
hot months of April and May The stifling mid-
day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out
unless necessary The buzz around town about
some festival called Song Kran is starting to
increase an underlying excitement rising
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
contact us
infothaigurumagazinecom
All videos in this magazine are
available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
Festival of LanternsThe enchanting atmosphere of Loi Krathong
The weather is cooling down and itrsquos
that time of year again when we all
take to the waterways of Thailand and
give praise to Khongkha the water
Goddess who took care of abundant
rainfall in the past raining season
Donrsquot miss this joyful celebration with
its enchanting atmosphere that brings
one and all in Thailand together
much like Songkran
Thailandrsquos lsquoFestival of Lightsrsquo is celebrated
throughout the kingdom on the night of the
November full moon The end of the rainy
season heralds the coolest months in the
countryrsquos calendar when the river waters are
also supposed to be at their highest
Superstition replaces religion on this night as
thousands flock to the banks of the swollen
rivers and canals to release khratongs floating
tributes to the river spirits and Mother Water ndash
Phra Mae Khongkha In recent years the festival
has been revived in the ancient temples of
Thailandrsquos former capital Sukhothai
Visitors assemble in the Sukhothai Historical
Park with their banana leaf khratongs decorated
with flowers incense sticks and candles to take
part in a ceremony that dates back centuries
Sometimes a coin is added as gift to the spirits
The pretty rafts are then released onto the lake
with a wish
It was once believed that Loi Khratong
was actually created in Sukhothai by Nang
Nopphamas a lady of the court and consort
of the king In fact the celebration was adapted
by Thai Buddhists from a Brahmanical festival
adapted to honour Buddha
The khratong is meant to be a light on the
darkness of the water for Buddha A personrsquos
sins and negative thoughts are also believed to
float away with the colourful little raft Try adding
a lock of your hair for extra luck
Nearly 20 of the Northern provinces will be
showing off a dazzling selection of floats in the
Royal Khratongs Procession as well as holding a
Miss Nopphamat beauty contest
A competition is held for the most beautifully
designed khratong as well as plenty of other
Sukhothai arts and cultural performances
The Light-and-Sound Presentation at Wat
Mahathat explains the history and origins of
Sukhothai and Loi Khratong through dance
music prayer combat displays light effects and
fireworks No Loi Khratong would be complete
without fireworks and thankfully the Thais are
not shy when it comes to blowing things up in
the sky
Tra Kuan pond is the place to be for the floating
of the Royal Khratongs followed by more
firmament-filling pyrotechnics Wat Chana
Songkram is the venue for the Mahachat
sermon Khon Marked Dance and a Thai
classical music performance
Thai Guru decided to travel from Chiang Mai
to Sukhotai for this yearrsquos festivities Although
the heavens decided to open for most of the
celebrations on the final day the rain could not
dampen the celebrations and the spectacle was
jaw dropping
The only thing that was missing due to the rain
was a sky filled with khom loi the sky lanterns
usually released into the firmament in their
hundreds
Although the festivities officially last for the best
part of a week it is the last three days that are
the busiest
Visitors can join in with a range of activities
including fruit carving or just wander around the
historic park listening to live traditional music
watching Thai martial arts or join the parade
of dancers musicians and beauty contestants
all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured
costumes
There are numerous places to stay for the
duration of the festival but it is advisable to
book ahead if you can because this is a very
popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north
from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai
Chiang Mai Temples
A visit to a temple in Thailand is
unavoidable They are everywhere
We at Thai Guru are well aware that
because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can
quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang
Mai With this in mind (and because
the city is overflowing with hundreds
of them) we have chosen a few of
our favourites we hope are slightly
alternative to the ones on the usual
tourist itinerary
Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to
the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its
latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of
the skills of the local silversmiths Like many
of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was
established several centuries ago The ubosoth
or ordination hall is an intricately designed
silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in
the sunlight
The area around Wua Lai has been the home to
silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past
couple of centuries who are famed throughout
the kingdom for creating detailed embossed
relief patterns on the objects they create
something that is immediately evident and
celebrated at Wat Srisuphan
The larger more traditionally decorated red blue
and gold prayer hall also contains impressive
silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos
life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft
museum
Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the
artisans at work and the temple has its own
silver-working school where apprentices are
trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive
Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved
in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-
robed residents of the temple improve their
linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also
available
Unfortunately women are not allowed to
enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this
is explained on a sign outside the wording of
which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in
the monastic boundary many precious things
incantations amulets and other holy objects
were buried over 500 years ago Entering
inside this area may deteriorated the place or
otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most
of the interior can be appreciated from the
doorway
Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous
for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged
Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai
Due to its being less well advertised than its
neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham
is often a more peaceful temple from which
to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang
Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist
Lent when the place was alive with worshippers
Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once
the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic
giants Following a visit from the Buddha the
giants decided to mend their ways stop eating
their neighbours and convert to Buddhism
For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and
offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the
templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally
constructed towards the end of the 7th century
Although the temple fell into disrepair over the
centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered
a chamber containing a number of Buddha
images The discovery led to the revitalisation of
this mountain top temple
The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are
guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured
sword-wielding warriors The courtyard
overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and
bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of
food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the
road leading to the temple
Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-
west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek
and easily accessible by car or taxi
Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai
was being established the name translates
as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably
because it was used to cast Buddha images for
its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The
entrance to the temple is through a small but
intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos
assembly hall is notable because it is one of the
only viharns of its type constructed solely from
teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a
superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock
astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference
to the king who once used the wooden hall as
his palace The gilded image features mythical
creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured
glass
The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite
from the busy road outside Wooden boxes
contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm
leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a
large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors
Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks
like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a
small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less
imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo
temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru
recommends a quick visit if you are passing
Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous
temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi
Luang
The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the
largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it
was damaged either by an earthquake in the
16th century or cannon fire from the guns
of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese
in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO
funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps
up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga
serpents and a group of five elephants (only the
one without a trunk or ears partially survived
whatever caused the structure to collapse the
others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi
was also once home to one of the most revered
religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald
Buddha Although the original now resides in
Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and
once again looks out over the city from a niche
on the east side of the structure
Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and
now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly
hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance
is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a
great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar
housed in a building at the base of the tree
Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although
one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few
alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed
Mae Hong Son
It is said that Mae Hong Son is the
most authentic and mountainous
province of Thailand For Thai Guru a
good reason to explore this province
side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai
province
Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of
Thailand The northern most part of this
province is at a distance of 924 km from
Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province
in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son
borders Myanmar On the south and east side it
borders Tak and Chiang Mai province
We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast
on the 108 road The scenery is woody and
mountainous so far so good And as we leave
the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek
for wildlife and beautiful landscapes
The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage
is that our average speed drops to less than
15 km hour No worries when you do trips
like these the clock stops and the only thing
on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning
landscapes that unfold before your eyes
The main road is well paved But as you might
understand we regularly go off road
This is the best way to come into contact with
locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo
While we are standing somewhere taking in the
beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a
falcon calling
A short walk through the forrest the sound
stops and we decide to sit down for some
water and well earned rest After a short while I
hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo
There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters
above us a white rumped falcon
Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras
it stays there and even when we start making
noises because we want to film it in flight it
takes itrsquos time
Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of
Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They
cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more
Of course they also have their own cattle And
walking through one of their small villages they
are very friendly and hospitable
It has to be said it is never smart to enter
a community or people with your camera
as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask
the people if they mind if you taking their
photograph or want to film their daily life
In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to
the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean
and offers a nice variety food on the terrace
with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city
where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists
Really nice to stroll down the walking street and
find food or a nice souvenir People are very
friendly as usual
From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae
Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an
average speed of 15 km hour
Halfway we jump out of the car into a river
Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to
keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn
but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around
without it
Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome
us and are gladly willing to allow us to make
photographs and film them
In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early
morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises
For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum
After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark
Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon
So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team
ChinatownBangkok
Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese
people in big cities around the world
Manhattan San Francisco Manilla
Paris and Boston have them and
more keep being officially recognised
in their role as historical and touristic
center every year Even places like
Dubai and Las Vegas have modern
day versions of this phenomenon
As soon as you pass under one of the famous
large red entrance arches you arrive in a
complete different world
A world that is paradise for photographers
A couple of the photographers in the Thai
Guru team decided to spend some time in the
Bangkok version of Chinatown
If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for
some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at
Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim
Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat
SLEEPY NANA dream destination
Relatively unknown and uncrowded
Nan has it all This gem of a province
hides an abundance of cultural and
natural attractions ancient temples
pristine forests rivers mountain
peaks but what strikes you most is
its omnipresent feel of an untroubled
authentic way of life
Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings
you this genuine feel in pictures and footage
For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of
Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant
nature and the nature of its people show
Thailand - as is often said before hordes of
tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas
it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan
managed to escape this proces but will it stay
that way Nan shares most of its border with
neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening
of the border and beyond towards China it is to
be expected that it will ultimately become an
important gateway for trade and tourism
Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town
and the countryside will enchant you and the natural
cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy
for at least a couple of days The town along the banks
of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base
to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night
life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous
temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue
influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The
great surroundings can best be explored by renting a
motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo
Much of the province is devoted to farming
Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still
being practised in areas of the province resulting
in a landscape where forests and fields alternate
Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside
of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature
peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich
natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the
province sees far fewer visitors than popular
neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You
can go white water rafting on the Wa River
along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim
National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay
overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes
Touring Nan
Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern
lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities
of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old
salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via
endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges
and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with
orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers
Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready
to be harvested broke through the green hills
giving a golden hue to the landscape
We encountered friendly villagers who worked
their way through the dry fields - meanwhile
singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to
supplement their meager incomes Despite their
hardship they showed us their heartwarming
hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes
with us
This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi
Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and
sparsely populated that we only passed two
cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos
difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand
nowadays
PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river
The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness
begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over
the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above
the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is
broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices
Then the carved image of a Naga becomes
visible above the water line followed by more
than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted
in red and gold colorshellip
During the year the remote provincial town
of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a
year for the annual spectacle of traditional
Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos
water artery The finals are held over two
days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos
banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite
team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in
Thailand yet relatively unknown
The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long
simple shelters where the massive dragon boats
are housed during the year Just once a year
they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos
most important sporting and social event The
event takes place right after the end of the
rainy season around early November when
water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at
their highest The colorful races are part of the
festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the
last day of Buddhist Lent in October
The narrow boats are made from massive
hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters
in length depending how many paddlers they
are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily
distinguishable by their use of bright colors and
mythical designs in the traditional local style
The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of
each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting
only the good ones to participate in their race
How to get there
Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is
connected by plane and by bus to the rest of
the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan
Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice
each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to
Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to
Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on
the service
Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan
(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8
hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)
The contestants of the races are classified into
three categories mdashlarge medium and small
boats Depending on their length each boat can
accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers
sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the
same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously
against the current to the frantic beating of a
drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern
The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying
their attempt to reach the finish line first and
the paddles churning up the river creates a
spectacular atmosphere
Son
g K
ran
in
Ch
ian
g M
ai
Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of
the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down
in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The
days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing
steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the
hot months of April and May The stifling mid-
day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out
unless necessary The buzz around town about
some festival called Song Kran is starting to
increase an underlying excitement rising
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
contact us
infothaigurumagazinecom
All videos in this magazine are
available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
The weather is cooling down and itrsquos
that time of year again when we all
take to the waterways of Thailand and
give praise to Khongkha the water
Goddess who took care of abundant
rainfall in the past raining season
Donrsquot miss this joyful celebration with
its enchanting atmosphere that brings
one and all in Thailand together
much like Songkran
Thailandrsquos lsquoFestival of Lightsrsquo is celebrated
throughout the kingdom on the night of the
November full moon The end of the rainy
season heralds the coolest months in the
countryrsquos calendar when the river waters are
also supposed to be at their highest
Superstition replaces religion on this night as
thousands flock to the banks of the swollen
rivers and canals to release khratongs floating
tributes to the river spirits and Mother Water ndash
Phra Mae Khongkha In recent years the festival
has been revived in the ancient temples of
Thailandrsquos former capital Sukhothai
Visitors assemble in the Sukhothai Historical
Park with their banana leaf khratongs decorated
with flowers incense sticks and candles to take
part in a ceremony that dates back centuries
Sometimes a coin is added as gift to the spirits
The pretty rafts are then released onto the lake
with a wish
It was once believed that Loi Khratong
was actually created in Sukhothai by Nang
Nopphamas a lady of the court and consort
of the king In fact the celebration was adapted
by Thai Buddhists from a Brahmanical festival
adapted to honour Buddha
The khratong is meant to be a light on the
darkness of the water for Buddha A personrsquos
sins and negative thoughts are also believed to
float away with the colourful little raft Try adding
a lock of your hair for extra luck
Nearly 20 of the Northern provinces will be
showing off a dazzling selection of floats in the
Royal Khratongs Procession as well as holding a
Miss Nopphamat beauty contest
A competition is held for the most beautifully
designed khratong as well as plenty of other
Sukhothai arts and cultural performances
The Light-and-Sound Presentation at Wat
Mahathat explains the history and origins of
Sukhothai and Loi Khratong through dance
music prayer combat displays light effects and
fireworks No Loi Khratong would be complete
without fireworks and thankfully the Thais are
not shy when it comes to blowing things up in
the sky
Tra Kuan pond is the place to be for the floating
of the Royal Khratongs followed by more
firmament-filling pyrotechnics Wat Chana
Songkram is the venue for the Mahachat
sermon Khon Marked Dance and a Thai
classical music performance
Thai Guru decided to travel from Chiang Mai
to Sukhotai for this yearrsquos festivities Although
the heavens decided to open for most of the
celebrations on the final day the rain could not
dampen the celebrations and the spectacle was
jaw dropping
The only thing that was missing due to the rain
was a sky filled with khom loi the sky lanterns
usually released into the firmament in their
hundreds
Although the festivities officially last for the best
part of a week it is the last three days that are
the busiest
Visitors can join in with a range of activities
including fruit carving or just wander around the
historic park listening to live traditional music
watching Thai martial arts or join the parade
of dancers musicians and beauty contestants
all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured
costumes
There are numerous places to stay for the
duration of the festival but it is advisable to
book ahead if you can because this is a very
popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north
from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai
Chiang Mai Temples
A visit to a temple in Thailand is
unavoidable They are everywhere
We at Thai Guru are well aware that
because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can
quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang
Mai With this in mind (and because
the city is overflowing with hundreds
of them) we have chosen a few of
our favourites we hope are slightly
alternative to the ones on the usual
tourist itinerary
Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to
the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its
latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of
the skills of the local silversmiths Like many
of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was
established several centuries ago The ubosoth
or ordination hall is an intricately designed
silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in
the sunlight
The area around Wua Lai has been the home to
silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past
couple of centuries who are famed throughout
the kingdom for creating detailed embossed
relief patterns on the objects they create
something that is immediately evident and
celebrated at Wat Srisuphan
The larger more traditionally decorated red blue
and gold prayer hall also contains impressive
silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos
life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft
museum
Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the
artisans at work and the temple has its own
silver-working school where apprentices are
trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive
Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved
in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-
robed residents of the temple improve their
linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also
available
Unfortunately women are not allowed to
enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this
is explained on a sign outside the wording of
which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in
the monastic boundary many precious things
incantations amulets and other holy objects
were buried over 500 years ago Entering
inside this area may deteriorated the place or
otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most
of the interior can be appreciated from the
doorway
Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous
for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged
Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai
Due to its being less well advertised than its
neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham
is often a more peaceful temple from which
to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang
Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist
Lent when the place was alive with worshippers
Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once
the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic
giants Following a visit from the Buddha the
giants decided to mend their ways stop eating
their neighbours and convert to Buddhism
For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and
offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the
templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally
constructed towards the end of the 7th century
Although the temple fell into disrepair over the
centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered
a chamber containing a number of Buddha
images The discovery led to the revitalisation of
this mountain top temple
The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are
guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured
sword-wielding warriors The courtyard
overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and
bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of
food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the
road leading to the temple
Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-
west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek
and easily accessible by car or taxi
Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai
was being established the name translates
as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably
because it was used to cast Buddha images for
its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The
entrance to the temple is through a small but
intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos
assembly hall is notable because it is one of the
only viharns of its type constructed solely from
teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a
superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock
astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference
to the king who once used the wooden hall as
his palace The gilded image features mythical
creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured
glass
The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite
from the busy road outside Wooden boxes
contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm
leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a
large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors
Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks
like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a
small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less
imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo
temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru
recommends a quick visit if you are passing
Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous
temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi
Luang
The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the
largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it
was damaged either by an earthquake in the
16th century or cannon fire from the guns
of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese
in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO
funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps
up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga
serpents and a group of five elephants (only the
one without a trunk or ears partially survived
whatever caused the structure to collapse the
others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi
was also once home to one of the most revered
religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald
Buddha Although the original now resides in
Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and
once again looks out over the city from a niche
on the east side of the structure
Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and
now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly
hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance
is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a
great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar
housed in a building at the base of the tree
Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although
one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few
alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed
Mae Hong Son
It is said that Mae Hong Son is the
most authentic and mountainous
province of Thailand For Thai Guru a
good reason to explore this province
side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai
province
Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of
Thailand The northern most part of this
province is at a distance of 924 km from
Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province
in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son
borders Myanmar On the south and east side it
borders Tak and Chiang Mai province
We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast
on the 108 road The scenery is woody and
mountainous so far so good And as we leave
the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek
for wildlife and beautiful landscapes
The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage
is that our average speed drops to less than
15 km hour No worries when you do trips
like these the clock stops and the only thing
on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning
landscapes that unfold before your eyes
The main road is well paved But as you might
understand we regularly go off road
This is the best way to come into contact with
locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo
While we are standing somewhere taking in the
beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a
falcon calling
A short walk through the forrest the sound
stops and we decide to sit down for some
water and well earned rest After a short while I
hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo
There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters
above us a white rumped falcon
Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras
it stays there and even when we start making
noises because we want to film it in flight it
takes itrsquos time
Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of
Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They
cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more
Of course they also have their own cattle And
walking through one of their small villages they
are very friendly and hospitable
It has to be said it is never smart to enter
a community or people with your camera
as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask
the people if they mind if you taking their
photograph or want to film their daily life
In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to
the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean
and offers a nice variety food on the terrace
with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city
where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists
Really nice to stroll down the walking street and
find food or a nice souvenir People are very
friendly as usual
From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae
Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an
average speed of 15 km hour
Halfway we jump out of the car into a river
Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to
keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn
but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around
without it
Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome
us and are gladly willing to allow us to make
photographs and film them
In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early
morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises
For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum
After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark
Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon
So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team
ChinatownBangkok
Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese
people in big cities around the world
Manhattan San Francisco Manilla
Paris and Boston have them and
more keep being officially recognised
in their role as historical and touristic
center every year Even places like
Dubai and Las Vegas have modern
day versions of this phenomenon
As soon as you pass under one of the famous
large red entrance arches you arrive in a
complete different world
A world that is paradise for photographers
A couple of the photographers in the Thai
Guru team decided to spend some time in the
Bangkok version of Chinatown
If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for
some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at
Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim
Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat
SLEEPY NANA dream destination
Relatively unknown and uncrowded
Nan has it all This gem of a province
hides an abundance of cultural and
natural attractions ancient temples
pristine forests rivers mountain
peaks but what strikes you most is
its omnipresent feel of an untroubled
authentic way of life
Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings
you this genuine feel in pictures and footage
For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of
Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant
nature and the nature of its people show
Thailand - as is often said before hordes of
tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas
it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan
managed to escape this proces but will it stay
that way Nan shares most of its border with
neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening
of the border and beyond towards China it is to
be expected that it will ultimately become an
important gateway for trade and tourism
Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town
and the countryside will enchant you and the natural
cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy
for at least a couple of days The town along the banks
of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base
to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night
life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous
temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue
influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The
great surroundings can best be explored by renting a
motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo
Much of the province is devoted to farming
Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still
being practised in areas of the province resulting
in a landscape where forests and fields alternate
Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside
of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature
peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich
natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the
province sees far fewer visitors than popular
neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You
can go white water rafting on the Wa River
along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim
National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay
overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes
Touring Nan
Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern
lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities
of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old
salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via
endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges
and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with
orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers
Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready
to be harvested broke through the green hills
giving a golden hue to the landscape
We encountered friendly villagers who worked
their way through the dry fields - meanwhile
singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to
supplement their meager incomes Despite their
hardship they showed us their heartwarming
hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes
with us
This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi
Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and
sparsely populated that we only passed two
cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos
difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand
nowadays
PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river
The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness
begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over
the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above
the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is
broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices
Then the carved image of a Naga becomes
visible above the water line followed by more
than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted
in red and gold colorshellip
During the year the remote provincial town
of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a
year for the annual spectacle of traditional
Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos
water artery The finals are held over two
days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos
banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite
team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in
Thailand yet relatively unknown
The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long
simple shelters where the massive dragon boats
are housed during the year Just once a year
they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos
most important sporting and social event The
event takes place right after the end of the
rainy season around early November when
water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at
their highest The colorful races are part of the
festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the
last day of Buddhist Lent in October
The narrow boats are made from massive
hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters
in length depending how many paddlers they
are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily
distinguishable by their use of bright colors and
mythical designs in the traditional local style
The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of
each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting
only the good ones to participate in their race
How to get there
Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is
connected by plane and by bus to the rest of
the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan
Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice
each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to
Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to
Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on
the service
Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan
(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8
hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)
The contestants of the races are classified into
three categories mdashlarge medium and small
boats Depending on their length each boat can
accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers
sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the
same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously
against the current to the frantic beating of a
drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern
The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying
their attempt to reach the finish line first and
the paddles churning up the river creates a
spectacular atmosphere
Son
g K
ran
in
Ch
ian
g M
ai
Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of
the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down
in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The
days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing
steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the
hot months of April and May The stifling mid-
day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out
unless necessary The buzz around town about
some festival called Song Kran is starting to
increase an underlying excitement rising
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
contact us
infothaigurumagazinecom
All videos in this magazine are
available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
Thailandrsquos lsquoFestival of Lightsrsquo is celebrated
throughout the kingdom on the night of the
November full moon The end of the rainy
season heralds the coolest months in the
countryrsquos calendar when the river waters are
also supposed to be at their highest
Superstition replaces religion on this night as
thousands flock to the banks of the swollen
rivers and canals to release khratongs floating
tributes to the river spirits and Mother Water ndash
Phra Mae Khongkha In recent years the festival
has been revived in the ancient temples of
Thailandrsquos former capital Sukhothai
Visitors assemble in the Sukhothai Historical
Park with their banana leaf khratongs decorated
with flowers incense sticks and candles to take
part in a ceremony that dates back centuries
Sometimes a coin is added as gift to the spirits
The pretty rafts are then released onto the lake
with a wish
It was once believed that Loi Khratong
was actually created in Sukhothai by Nang
Nopphamas a lady of the court and consort
of the king In fact the celebration was adapted
by Thai Buddhists from a Brahmanical festival
adapted to honour Buddha
The khratong is meant to be a light on the
darkness of the water for Buddha A personrsquos
sins and negative thoughts are also believed to
float away with the colourful little raft Try adding
a lock of your hair for extra luck
Nearly 20 of the Northern provinces will be
showing off a dazzling selection of floats in the
Royal Khratongs Procession as well as holding a
Miss Nopphamat beauty contest
A competition is held for the most beautifully
designed khratong as well as plenty of other
Sukhothai arts and cultural performances
The Light-and-Sound Presentation at Wat
Mahathat explains the history and origins of
Sukhothai and Loi Khratong through dance
music prayer combat displays light effects and
fireworks No Loi Khratong would be complete
without fireworks and thankfully the Thais are
not shy when it comes to blowing things up in
the sky
Tra Kuan pond is the place to be for the floating
of the Royal Khratongs followed by more
firmament-filling pyrotechnics Wat Chana
Songkram is the venue for the Mahachat
sermon Khon Marked Dance and a Thai
classical music performance
Thai Guru decided to travel from Chiang Mai
to Sukhotai for this yearrsquos festivities Although
the heavens decided to open for most of the
celebrations on the final day the rain could not
dampen the celebrations and the spectacle was
jaw dropping
The only thing that was missing due to the rain
was a sky filled with khom loi the sky lanterns
usually released into the firmament in their
hundreds
Although the festivities officially last for the best
part of a week it is the last three days that are
the busiest
Visitors can join in with a range of activities
including fruit carving or just wander around the
historic park listening to live traditional music
watching Thai martial arts or join the parade
of dancers musicians and beauty contestants
all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured
costumes
There are numerous places to stay for the
duration of the festival but it is advisable to
book ahead if you can because this is a very
popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north
from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai
Chiang Mai Temples
A visit to a temple in Thailand is
unavoidable They are everywhere
We at Thai Guru are well aware that
because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can
quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang
Mai With this in mind (and because
the city is overflowing with hundreds
of them) we have chosen a few of
our favourites we hope are slightly
alternative to the ones on the usual
tourist itinerary
Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to
the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its
latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of
the skills of the local silversmiths Like many
of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was
established several centuries ago The ubosoth
or ordination hall is an intricately designed
silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in
the sunlight
The area around Wua Lai has been the home to
silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past
couple of centuries who are famed throughout
the kingdom for creating detailed embossed
relief patterns on the objects they create
something that is immediately evident and
celebrated at Wat Srisuphan
The larger more traditionally decorated red blue
and gold prayer hall also contains impressive
silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos
life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft
museum
Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the
artisans at work and the temple has its own
silver-working school where apprentices are
trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive
Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved
in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-
robed residents of the temple improve their
linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also
available
Unfortunately women are not allowed to
enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this
is explained on a sign outside the wording of
which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in
the monastic boundary many precious things
incantations amulets and other holy objects
were buried over 500 years ago Entering
inside this area may deteriorated the place or
otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most
of the interior can be appreciated from the
doorway
Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous
for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged
Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai
Due to its being less well advertised than its
neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham
is often a more peaceful temple from which
to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang
Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist
Lent when the place was alive with worshippers
Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once
the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic
giants Following a visit from the Buddha the
giants decided to mend their ways stop eating
their neighbours and convert to Buddhism
For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and
offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the
templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally
constructed towards the end of the 7th century
Although the temple fell into disrepair over the
centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered
a chamber containing a number of Buddha
images The discovery led to the revitalisation of
this mountain top temple
The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are
guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured
sword-wielding warriors The courtyard
overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and
bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of
food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the
road leading to the temple
Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-
west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek
and easily accessible by car or taxi
Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai
was being established the name translates
as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably
because it was used to cast Buddha images for
its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The
entrance to the temple is through a small but
intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos
assembly hall is notable because it is one of the
only viharns of its type constructed solely from
teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a
superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock
astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference
to the king who once used the wooden hall as
his palace The gilded image features mythical
creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured
glass
The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite
from the busy road outside Wooden boxes
contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm
leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a
large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors
Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks
like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a
small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less
imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo
temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru
recommends a quick visit if you are passing
Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous
temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi
Luang
The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the
largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it
was damaged either by an earthquake in the
16th century or cannon fire from the guns
of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese
in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO
funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps
up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga
serpents and a group of five elephants (only the
one without a trunk or ears partially survived
whatever caused the structure to collapse the
others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi
was also once home to one of the most revered
religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald
Buddha Although the original now resides in
Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and
once again looks out over the city from a niche
on the east side of the structure
Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and
now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly
hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance
is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a
great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar
housed in a building at the base of the tree
Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although
one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few
alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed
Mae Hong Son
It is said that Mae Hong Son is the
most authentic and mountainous
province of Thailand For Thai Guru a
good reason to explore this province
side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai
province
Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of
Thailand The northern most part of this
province is at a distance of 924 km from
Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province
in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son
borders Myanmar On the south and east side it
borders Tak and Chiang Mai province
We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast
on the 108 road The scenery is woody and
mountainous so far so good And as we leave
the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek
for wildlife and beautiful landscapes
The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage
is that our average speed drops to less than
15 km hour No worries when you do trips
like these the clock stops and the only thing
on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning
landscapes that unfold before your eyes
The main road is well paved But as you might
understand we regularly go off road
This is the best way to come into contact with
locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo
While we are standing somewhere taking in the
beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a
falcon calling
A short walk through the forrest the sound
stops and we decide to sit down for some
water and well earned rest After a short while I
hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo
There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters
above us a white rumped falcon
Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras
it stays there and even when we start making
noises because we want to film it in flight it
takes itrsquos time
Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of
Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They
cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more
Of course they also have their own cattle And
walking through one of their small villages they
are very friendly and hospitable
It has to be said it is never smart to enter
a community or people with your camera
as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask
the people if they mind if you taking their
photograph or want to film their daily life
In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to
the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean
and offers a nice variety food on the terrace
with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city
where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists
Really nice to stroll down the walking street and
find food or a nice souvenir People are very
friendly as usual
From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae
Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an
average speed of 15 km hour
Halfway we jump out of the car into a river
Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to
keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn
but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around
without it
Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome
us and are gladly willing to allow us to make
photographs and film them
In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early
morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises
For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum
After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark
Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon
So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team
ChinatownBangkok
Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese
people in big cities around the world
Manhattan San Francisco Manilla
Paris and Boston have them and
more keep being officially recognised
in their role as historical and touristic
center every year Even places like
Dubai and Las Vegas have modern
day versions of this phenomenon
As soon as you pass under one of the famous
large red entrance arches you arrive in a
complete different world
A world that is paradise for photographers
A couple of the photographers in the Thai
Guru team decided to spend some time in the
Bangkok version of Chinatown
If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for
some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at
Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim
Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat
SLEEPY NANA dream destination
Relatively unknown and uncrowded
Nan has it all This gem of a province
hides an abundance of cultural and
natural attractions ancient temples
pristine forests rivers mountain
peaks but what strikes you most is
its omnipresent feel of an untroubled
authentic way of life
Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings
you this genuine feel in pictures and footage
For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of
Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant
nature and the nature of its people show
Thailand - as is often said before hordes of
tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas
it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan
managed to escape this proces but will it stay
that way Nan shares most of its border with
neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening
of the border and beyond towards China it is to
be expected that it will ultimately become an
important gateway for trade and tourism
Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town
and the countryside will enchant you and the natural
cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy
for at least a couple of days The town along the banks
of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base
to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night
life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous
temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue
influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The
great surroundings can best be explored by renting a
motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo
Much of the province is devoted to farming
Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still
being practised in areas of the province resulting
in a landscape where forests and fields alternate
Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside
of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature
peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich
natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the
province sees far fewer visitors than popular
neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You
can go white water rafting on the Wa River
along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim
National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay
overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes
Touring Nan
Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern
lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities
of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old
salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via
endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges
and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with
orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers
Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready
to be harvested broke through the green hills
giving a golden hue to the landscape
We encountered friendly villagers who worked
their way through the dry fields - meanwhile
singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to
supplement their meager incomes Despite their
hardship they showed us their heartwarming
hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes
with us
This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi
Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and
sparsely populated that we only passed two
cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos
difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand
nowadays
PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river
The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness
begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over
the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above
the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is
broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices
Then the carved image of a Naga becomes
visible above the water line followed by more
than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted
in red and gold colorshellip
During the year the remote provincial town
of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a
year for the annual spectacle of traditional
Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos
water artery The finals are held over two
days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos
banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite
team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in
Thailand yet relatively unknown
The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long
simple shelters where the massive dragon boats
are housed during the year Just once a year
they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos
most important sporting and social event The
event takes place right after the end of the
rainy season around early November when
water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at
their highest The colorful races are part of the
festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the
last day of Buddhist Lent in October
The narrow boats are made from massive
hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters
in length depending how many paddlers they
are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily
distinguishable by their use of bright colors and
mythical designs in the traditional local style
The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of
each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting
only the good ones to participate in their race
How to get there
Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is
connected by plane and by bus to the rest of
the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan
Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice
each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to
Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to
Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on
the service
Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan
(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8
hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)
The contestants of the races are classified into
three categories mdashlarge medium and small
boats Depending on their length each boat can
accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers
sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the
same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously
against the current to the frantic beating of a
drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern
The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying
their attempt to reach the finish line first and
the paddles churning up the river creates a
spectacular atmosphere
Son
g K
ran
in
Ch
ian
g M
ai
Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of
the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down
in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The
days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing
steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the
hot months of April and May The stifling mid-
day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out
unless necessary The buzz around town about
some festival called Song Kran is starting to
increase an underlying excitement rising
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
contact us
infothaigurumagazinecom
All videos in this magazine are
available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
It was once believed that Loi Khratong
was actually created in Sukhothai by Nang
Nopphamas a lady of the court and consort
of the king In fact the celebration was adapted
by Thai Buddhists from a Brahmanical festival
adapted to honour Buddha
The khratong is meant to be a light on the
darkness of the water for Buddha A personrsquos
sins and negative thoughts are also believed to
float away with the colourful little raft Try adding
a lock of your hair for extra luck
Nearly 20 of the Northern provinces will be
showing off a dazzling selection of floats in the
Royal Khratongs Procession as well as holding a
Miss Nopphamat beauty contest
A competition is held for the most beautifully
designed khratong as well as plenty of other
Sukhothai arts and cultural performances
The Light-and-Sound Presentation at Wat
Mahathat explains the history and origins of
Sukhothai and Loi Khratong through dance
music prayer combat displays light effects and
fireworks No Loi Khratong would be complete
without fireworks and thankfully the Thais are
not shy when it comes to blowing things up in
the sky
Tra Kuan pond is the place to be for the floating
of the Royal Khratongs followed by more
firmament-filling pyrotechnics Wat Chana
Songkram is the venue for the Mahachat
sermon Khon Marked Dance and a Thai
classical music performance
Thai Guru decided to travel from Chiang Mai
to Sukhotai for this yearrsquos festivities Although
the heavens decided to open for most of the
celebrations on the final day the rain could not
dampen the celebrations and the spectacle was
jaw dropping
The only thing that was missing due to the rain
was a sky filled with khom loi the sky lanterns
usually released into the firmament in their
hundreds
Although the festivities officially last for the best
part of a week it is the last three days that are
the busiest
Visitors can join in with a range of activities
including fruit carving or just wander around the
historic park listening to live traditional music
watching Thai martial arts or join the parade
of dancers musicians and beauty contestants
all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured
costumes
There are numerous places to stay for the
duration of the festival but it is advisable to
book ahead if you can because this is a very
popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north
from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai
Chiang Mai Temples
A visit to a temple in Thailand is
unavoidable They are everywhere
We at Thai Guru are well aware that
because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can
quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang
Mai With this in mind (and because
the city is overflowing with hundreds
of them) we have chosen a few of
our favourites we hope are slightly
alternative to the ones on the usual
tourist itinerary
Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to
the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its
latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of
the skills of the local silversmiths Like many
of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was
established several centuries ago The ubosoth
or ordination hall is an intricately designed
silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in
the sunlight
The area around Wua Lai has been the home to
silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past
couple of centuries who are famed throughout
the kingdom for creating detailed embossed
relief patterns on the objects they create
something that is immediately evident and
celebrated at Wat Srisuphan
The larger more traditionally decorated red blue
and gold prayer hall also contains impressive
silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos
life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft
museum
Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the
artisans at work and the temple has its own
silver-working school where apprentices are
trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive
Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved
in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-
robed residents of the temple improve their
linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also
available
Unfortunately women are not allowed to
enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this
is explained on a sign outside the wording of
which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in
the monastic boundary many precious things
incantations amulets and other holy objects
were buried over 500 years ago Entering
inside this area may deteriorated the place or
otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most
of the interior can be appreciated from the
doorway
Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous
for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged
Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai
Due to its being less well advertised than its
neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham
is often a more peaceful temple from which
to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang
Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist
Lent when the place was alive with worshippers
Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once
the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic
giants Following a visit from the Buddha the
giants decided to mend their ways stop eating
their neighbours and convert to Buddhism
For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and
offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the
templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally
constructed towards the end of the 7th century
Although the temple fell into disrepair over the
centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered
a chamber containing a number of Buddha
images The discovery led to the revitalisation of
this mountain top temple
The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are
guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured
sword-wielding warriors The courtyard
overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and
bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of
food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the
road leading to the temple
Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-
west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek
and easily accessible by car or taxi
Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai
was being established the name translates
as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably
because it was used to cast Buddha images for
its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The
entrance to the temple is through a small but
intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos
assembly hall is notable because it is one of the
only viharns of its type constructed solely from
teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a
superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock
astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference
to the king who once used the wooden hall as
his palace The gilded image features mythical
creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured
glass
The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite
from the busy road outside Wooden boxes
contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm
leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a
large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors
Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks
like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a
small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less
imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo
temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru
recommends a quick visit if you are passing
Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous
temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi
Luang
The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the
largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it
was damaged either by an earthquake in the
16th century or cannon fire from the guns
of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese
in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO
funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps
up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga
serpents and a group of five elephants (only the
one without a trunk or ears partially survived
whatever caused the structure to collapse the
others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi
was also once home to one of the most revered
religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald
Buddha Although the original now resides in
Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and
once again looks out over the city from a niche
on the east side of the structure
Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and
now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly
hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance
is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a
great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar
housed in a building at the base of the tree
Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although
one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few
alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed
Mae Hong Son
It is said that Mae Hong Son is the
most authentic and mountainous
province of Thailand For Thai Guru a
good reason to explore this province
side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai
province
Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of
Thailand The northern most part of this
province is at a distance of 924 km from
Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province
in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son
borders Myanmar On the south and east side it
borders Tak and Chiang Mai province
We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast
on the 108 road The scenery is woody and
mountainous so far so good And as we leave
the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek
for wildlife and beautiful landscapes
The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage
is that our average speed drops to less than
15 km hour No worries when you do trips
like these the clock stops and the only thing
on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning
landscapes that unfold before your eyes
The main road is well paved But as you might
understand we regularly go off road
This is the best way to come into contact with
locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo
While we are standing somewhere taking in the
beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a
falcon calling
A short walk through the forrest the sound
stops and we decide to sit down for some
water and well earned rest After a short while I
hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo
There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters
above us a white rumped falcon
Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras
it stays there and even when we start making
noises because we want to film it in flight it
takes itrsquos time
Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of
Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They
cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more
Of course they also have their own cattle And
walking through one of their small villages they
are very friendly and hospitable
It has to be said it is never smart to enter
a community or people with your camera
as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask
the people if they mind if you taking their
photograph or want to film their daily life
In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to
the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean
and offers a nice variety food on the terrace
with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city
where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists
Really nice to stroll down the walking street and
find food or a nice souvenir People are very
friendly as usual
From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae
Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an
average speed of 15 km hour
Halfway we jump out of the car into a river
Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to
keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn
but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around
without it
Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome
us and are gladly willing to allow us to make
photographs and film them
In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early
morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises
For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum
After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark
Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon
So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team
ChinatownBangkok
Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese
people in big cities around the world
Manhattan San Francisco Manilla
Paris and Boston have them and
more keep being officially recognised
in their role as historical and touristic
center every year Even places like
Dubai and Las Vegas have modern
day versions of this phenomenon
As soon as you pass under one of the famous
large red entrance arches you arrive in a
complete different world
A world that is paradise for photographers
A couple of the photographers in the Thai
Guru team decided to spend some time in the
Bangkok version of Chinatown
If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for
some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at
Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim
Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat
SLEEPY NANA dream destination
Relatively unknown and uncrowded
Nan has it all This gem of a province
hides an abundance of cultural and
natural attractions ancient temples
pristine forests rivers mountain
peaks but what strikes you most is
its omnipresent feel of an untroubled
authentic way of life
Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings
you this genuine feel in pictures and footage
For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of
Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant
nature and the nature of its people show
Thailand - as is often said before hordes of
tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas
it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan
managed to escape this proces but will it stay
that way Nan shares most of its border with
neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening
of the border and beyond towards China it is to
be expected that it will ultimately become an
important gateway for trade and tourism
Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town
and the countryside will enchant you and the natural
cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy
for at least a couple of days The town along the banks
of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base
to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night
life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous
temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue
influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The
great surroundings can best be explored by renting a
motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo
Much of the province is devoted to farming
Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still
being practised in areas of the province resulting
in a landscape where forests and fields alternate
Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside
of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature
peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich
natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the
province sees far fewer visitors than popular
neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You
can go white water rafting on the Wa River
along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim
National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay
overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes
Touring Nan
Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern
lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities
of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old
salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via
endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges
and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with
orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers
Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready
to be harvested broke through the green hills
giving a golden hue to the landscape
We encountered friendly villagers who worked
their way through the dry fields - meanwhile
singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to
supplement their meager incomes Despite their
hardship they showed us their heartwarming
hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes
with us
This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi
Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and
sparsely populated that we only passed two
cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos
difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand
nowadays
PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river
The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness
begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over
the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above
the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is
broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices
Then the carved image of a Naga becomes
visible above the water line followed by more
than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted
in red and gold colorshellip
During the year the remote provincial town
of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a
year for the annual spectacle of traditional
Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos
water artery The finals are held over two
days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos
banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite
team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in
Thailand yet relatively unknown
The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long
simple shelters where the massive dragon boats
are housed during the year Just once a year
they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos
most important sporting and social event The
event takes place right after the end of the
rainy season around early November when
water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at
their highest The colorful races are part of the
festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the
last day of Buddhist Lent in October
The narrow boats are made from massive
hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters
in length depending how many paddlers they
are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily
distinguishable by their use of bright colors and
mythical designs in the traditional local style
The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of
each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting
only the good ones to participate in their race
How to get there
Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is
connected by plane and by bus to the rest of
the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan
Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice
each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to
Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to
Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on
the service
Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan
(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8
hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)
The contestants of the races are classified into
three categories mdashlarge medium and small
boats Depending on their length each boat can
accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers
sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the
same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously
against the current to the frantic beating of a
drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern
The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying
their attempt to reach the finish line first and
the paddles churning up the river creates a
spectacular atmosphere
Son
g K
ran
in
Ch
ian
g M
ai
Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of
the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down
in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The
days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing
steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the
hot months of April and May The stifling mid-
day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out
unless necessary The buzz around town about
some festival called Song Kran is starting to
increase an underlying excitement rising
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
contact us
infothaigurumagazinecom
All videos in this magazine are
available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
Nearly 20 of the Northern provinces will be
showing off a dazzling selection of floats in the
Royal Khratongs Procession as well as holding a
Miss Nopphamat beauty contest
A competition is held for the most beautifully
designed khratong as well as plenty of other
Sukhothai arts and cultural performances
The Light-and-Sound Presentation at Wat
Mahathat explains the history and origins of
Sukhothai and Loi Khratong through dance
music prayer combat displays light effects and
fireworks No Loi Khratong would be complete
without fireworks and thankfully the Thais are
not shy when it comes to blowing things up in
the sky
Tra Kuan pond is the place to be for the floating
of the Royal Khratongs followed by more
firmament-filling pyrotechnics Wat Chana
Songkram is the venue for the Mahachat
sermon Khon Marked Dance and a Thai
classical music performance
Thai Guru decided to travel from Chiang Mai
to Sukhotai for this yearrsquos festivities Although
the heavens decided to open for most of the
celebrations on the final day the rain could not
dampen the celebrations and the spectacle was
jaw dropping
The only thing that was missing due to the rain
was a sky filled with khom loi the sky lanterns
usually released into the firmament in their
hundreds
Although the festivities officially last for the best
part of a week it is the last three days that are
the busiest
Visitors can join in with a range of activities
including fruit carving or just wander around the
historic park listening to live traditional music
watching Thai martial arts or join the parade
of dancers musicians and beauty contestants
all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured
costumes
There are numerous places to stay for the
duration of the festival but it is advisable to
book ahead if you can because this is a very
popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north
from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai
Chiang Mai Temples
A visit to a temple in Thailand is
unavoidable They are everywhere
We at Thai Guru are well aware that
because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can
quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang
Mai With this in mind (and because
the city is overflowing with hundreds
of them) we have chosen a few of
our favourites we hope are slightly
alternative to the ones on the usual
tourist itinerary
Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to
the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its
latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of
the skills of the local silversmiths Like many
of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was
established several centuries ago The ubosoth
or ordination hall is an intricately designed
silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in
the sunlight
The area around Wua Lai has been the home to
silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past
couple of centuries who are famed throughout
the kingdom for creating detailed embossed
relief patterns on the objects they create
something that is immediately evident and
celebrated at Wat Srisuphan
The larger more traditionally decorated red blue
and gold prayer hall also contains impressive
silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos
life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft
museum
Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the
artisans at work and the temple has its own
silver-working school where apprentices are
trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive
Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved
in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-
robed residents of the temple improve their
linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also
available
Unfortunately women are not allowed to
enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this
is explained on a sign outside the wording of
which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in
the monastic boundary many precious things
incantations amulets and other holy objects
were buried over 500 years ago Entering
inside this area may deteriorated the place or
otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most
of the interior can be appreciated from the
doorway
Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous
for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged
Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai
Due to its being less well advertised than its
neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham
is often a more peaceful temple from which
to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang
Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist
Lent when the place was alive with worshippers
Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once
the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic
giants Following a visit from the Buddha the
giants decided to mend their ways stop eating
their neighbours and convert to Buddhism
For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and
offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the
templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally
constructed towards the end of the 7th century
Although the temple fell into disrepair over the
centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered
a chamber containing a number of Buddha
images The discovery led to the revitalisation of
this mountain top temple
The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are
guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured
sword-wielding warriors The courtyard
overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and
bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of
food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the
road leading to the temple
Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-
west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek
and easily accessible by car or taxi
Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai
was being established the name translates
as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably
because it was used to cast Buddha images for
its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The
entrance to the temple is through a small but
intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos
assembly hall is notable because it is one of the
only viharns of its type constructed solely from
teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a
superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock
astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference
to the king who once used the wooden hall as
his palace The gilded image features mythical
creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured
glass
The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite
from the busy road outside Wooden boxes
contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm
leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a
large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors
Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks
like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a
small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less
imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo
temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru
recommends a quick visit if you are passing
Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous
temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi
Luang
The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the
largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it
was damaged either by an earthquake in the
16th century or cannon fire from the guns
of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese
in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO
funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps
up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga
serpents and a group of five elephants (only the
one without a trunk or ears partially survived
whatever caused the structure to collapse the
others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi
was also once home to one of the most revered
religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald
Buddha Although the original now resides in
Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and
once again looks out over the city from a niche
on the east side of the structure
Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and
now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly
hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance
is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a
great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar
housed in a building at the base of the tree
Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although
one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few
alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed
Mae Hong Son
It is said that Mae Hong Son is the
most authentic and mountainous
province of Thailand For Thai Guru a
good reason to explore this province
side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai
province
Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of
Thailand The northern most part of this
province is at a distance of 924 km from
Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province
in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son
borders Myanmar On the south and east side it
borders Tak and Chiang Mai province
We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast
on the 108 road The scenery is woody and
mountainous so far so good And as we leave
the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek
for wildlife and beautiful landscapes
The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage
is that our average speed drops to less than
15 km hour No worries when you do trips
like these the clock stops and the only thing
on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning
landscapes that unfold before your eyes
The main road is well paved But as you might
understand we regularly go off road
This is the best way to come into contact with
locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo
While we are standing somewhere taking in the
beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a
falcon calling
A short walk through the forrest the sound
stops and we decide to sit down for some
water and well earned rest After a short while I
hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo
There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters
above us a white rumped falcon
Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras
it stays there and even when we start making
noises because we want to film it in flight it
takes itrsquos time
Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of
Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They
cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more
Of course they also have their own cattle And
walking through one of their small villages they
are very friendly and hospitable
It has to be said it is never smart to enter
a community or people with your camera
as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask
the people if they mind if you taking their
photograph or want to film their daily life
In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to
the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean
and offers a nice variety food on the terrace
with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city
where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists
Really nice to stroll down the walking street and
find food or a nice souvenir People are very
friendly as usual
From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae
Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an
average speed of 15 km hour
Halfway we jump out of the car into a river
Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to
keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn
but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around
without it
Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome
us and are gladly willing to allow us to make
photographs and film them
In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early
morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises
For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum
After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark
Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon
So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team
ChinatownBangkok
Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese
people in big cities around the world
Manhattan San Francisco Manilla
Paris and Boston have them and
more keep being officially recognised
in their role as historical and touristic
center every year Even places like
Dubai and Las Vegas have modern
day versions of this phenomenon
As soon as you pass under one of the famous
large red entrance arches you arrive in a
complete different world
A world that is paradise for photographers
A couple of the photographers in the Thai
Guru team decided to spend some time in the
Bangkok version of Chinatown
If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for
some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at
Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim
Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat
SLEEPY NANA dream destination
Relatively unknown and uncrowded
Nan has it all This gem of a province
hides an abundance of cultural and
natural attractions ancient temples
pristine forests rivers mountain
peaks but what strikes you most is
its omnipresent feel of an untroubled
authentic way of life
Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings
you this genuine feel in pictures and footage
For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of
Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant
nature and the nature of its people show
Thailand - as is often said before hordes of
tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas
it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan
managed to escape this proces but will it stay
that way Nan shares most of its border with
neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening
of the border and beyond towards China it is to
be expected that it will ultimately become an
important gateway for trade and tourism
Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town
and the countryside will enchant you and the natural
cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy
for at least a couple of days The town along the banks
of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base
to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night
life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous
temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue
influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The
great surroundings can best be explored by renting a
motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo
Much of the province is devoted to farming
Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still
being practised in areas of the province resulting
in a landscape where forests and fields alternate
Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside
of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature
peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich
natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the
province sees far fewer visitors than popular
neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You
can go white water rafting on the Wa River
along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim
National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay
overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes
Touring Nan
Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern
lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities
of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old
salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via
endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges
and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with
orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers
Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready
to be harvested broke through the green hills
giving a golden hue to the landscape
We encountered friendly villagers who worked
their way through the dry fields - meanwhile
singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to
supplement their meager incomes Despite their
hardship they showed us their heartwarming
hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes
with us
This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi
Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and
sparsely populated that we only passed two
cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos
difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand
nowadays
PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river
The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness
begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over
the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above
the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is
broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices
Then the carved image of a Naga becomes
visible above the water line followed by more
than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted
in red and gold colorshellip
During the year the remote provincial town
of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a
year for the annual spectacle of traditional
Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos
water artery The finals are held over two
days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos
banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite
team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in
Thailand yet relatively unknown
The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long
simple shelters where the massive dragon boats
are housed during the year Just once a year
they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos
most important sporting and social event The
event takes place right after the end of the
rainy season around early November when
water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at
their highest The colorful races are part of the
festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the
last day of Buddhist Lent in October
The narrow boats are made from massive
hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters
in length depending how many paddlers they
are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily
distinguishable by their use of bright colors and
mythical designs in the traditional local style
The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of
each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting
only the good ones to participate in their race
How to get there
Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is
connected by plane and by bus to the rest of
the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan
Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice
each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to
Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to
Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on
the service
Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan
(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8
hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)
The contestants of the races are classified into
three categories mdashlarge medium and small
boats Depending on their length each boat can
accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers
sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the
same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously
against the current to the frantic beating of a
drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern
The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying
their attempt to reach the finish line first and
the paddles churning up the river creates a
spectacular atmosphere
Son
g K
ran
in
Ch
ian
g M
ai
Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of
the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down
in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The
days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing
steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the
hot months of April and May The stifling mid-
day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out
unless necessary The buzz around town about
some festival called Song Kran is starting to
increase an underlying excitement rising
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
contact us
infothaigurumagazinecom
All videos in this magazine are
available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
Thai Guru decided to travel from Chiang Mai
to Sukhotai for this yearrsquos festivities Although
the heavens decided to open for most of the
celebrations on the final day the rain could not
dampen the celebrations and the spectacle was
jaw dropping
The only thing that was missing due to the rain
was a sky filled with khom loi the sky lanterns
usually released into the firmament in their
hundreds
Although the festivities officially last for the best
part of a week it is the last three days that are
the busiest
Visitors can join in with a range of activities
including fruit carving or just wander around the
historic park listening to live traditional music
watching Thai martial arts or join the parade
of dancers musicians and beauty contestants
all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured
costumes
There are numerous places to stay for the
duration of the festival but it is advisable to
book ahead if you can because this is a very
popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north
from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai
Chiang Mai Temples
A visit to a temple in Thailand is
unavoidable They are everywhere
We at Thai Guru are well aware that
because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can
quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang
Mai With this in mind (and because
the city is overflowing with hundreds
of them) we have chosen a few of
our favourites we hope are slightly
alternative to the ones on the usual
tourist itinerary
Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to
the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its
latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of
the skills of the local silversmiths Like many
of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was
established several centuries ago The ubosoth
or ordination hall is an intricately designed
silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in
the sunlight
The area around Wua Lai has been the home to
silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past
couple of centuries who are famed throughout
the kingdom for creating detailed embossed
relief patterns on the objects they create
something that is immediately evident and
celebrated at Wat Srisuphan
The larger more traditionally decorated red blue
and gold prayer hall also contains impressive
silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos
life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft
museum
Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the
artisans at work and the temple has its own
silver-working school where apprentices are
trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive
Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved
in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-
robed residents of the temple improve their
linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also
available
Unfortunately women are not allowed to
enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this
is explained on a sign outside the wording of
which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in
the monastic boundary many precious things
incantations amulets and other holy objects
were buried over 500 years ago Entering
inside this area may deteriorated the place or
otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most
of the interior can be appreciated from the
doorway
Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous
for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged
Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai
Due to its being less well advertised than its
neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham
is often a more peaceful temple from which
to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang
Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist
Lent when the place was alive with worshippers
Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once
the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic
giants Following a visit from the Buddha the
giants decided to mend their ways stop eating
their neighbours and convert to Buddhism
For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and
offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the
templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally
constructed towards the end of the 7th century
Although the temple fell into disrepair over the
centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered
a chamber containing a number of Buddha
images The discovery led to the revitalisation of
this mountain top temple
The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are
guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured
sword-wielding warriors The courtyard
overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and
bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of
food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the
road leading to the temple
Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-
west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek
and easily accessible by car or taxi
Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai
was being established the name translates
as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably
because it was used to cast Buddha images for
its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The
entrance to the temple is through a small but
intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos
assembly hall is notable because it is one of the
only viharns of its type constructed solely from
teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a
superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock
astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference
to the king who once used the wooden hall as
his palace The gilded image features mythical
creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured
glass
The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite
from the busy road outside Wooden boxes
contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm
leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a
large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors
Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks
like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a
small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less
imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo
temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru
recommends a quick visit if you are passing
Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous
temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi
Luang
The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the
largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it
was damaged either by an earthquake in the
16th century or cannon fire from the guns
of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese
in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO
funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps
up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga
serpents and a group of five elephants (only the
one without a trunk or ears partially survived
whatever caused the structure to collapse the
others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi
was also once home to one of the most revered
religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald
Buddha Although the original now resides in
Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and
once again looks out over the city from a niche
on the east side of the structure
Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and
now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly
hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance
is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a
great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar
housed in a building at the base of the tree
Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although
one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few
alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed
Mae Hong Son
It is said that Mae Hong Son is the
most authentic and mountainous
province of Thailand For Thai Guru a
good reason to explore this province
side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai
province
Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of
Thailand The northern most part of this
province is at a distance of 924 km from
Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province
in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son
borders Myanmar On the south and east side it
borders Tak and Chiang Mai province
We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast
on the 108 road The scenery is woody and
mountainous so far so good And as we leave
the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek
for wildlife and beautiful landscapes
The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage
is that our average speed drops to less than
15 km hour No worries when you do trips
like these the clock stops and the only thing
on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning
landscapes that unfold before your eyes
The main road is well paved But as you might
understand we regularly go off road
This is the best way to come into contact with
locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo
While we are standing somewhere taking in the
beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a
falcon calling
A short walk through the forrest the sound
stops and we decide to sit down for some
water and well earned rest After a short while I
hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo
There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters
above us a white rumped falcon
Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras
it stays there and even when we start making
noises because we want to film it in flight it
takes itrsquos time
Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of
Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They
cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more
Of course they also have their own cattle And
walking through one of their small villages they
are very friendly and hospitable
It has to be said it is never smart to enter
a community or people with your camera
as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask
the people if they mind if you taking their
photograph or want to film their daily life
In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to
the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean
and offers a nice variety food on the terrace
with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city
where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists
Really nice to stroll down the walking street and
find food or a nice souvenir People are very
friendly as usual
From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae
Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an
average speed of 15 km hour
Halfway we jump out of the car into a river
Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to
keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn
but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around
without it
Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome
us and are gladly willing to allow us to make
photographs and film them
In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early
morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises
For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum
After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark
Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon
So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team
ChinatownBangkok
Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese
people in big cities around the world
Manhattan San Francisco Manilla
Paris and Boston have them and
more keep being officially recognised
in their role as historical and touristic
center every year Even places like
Dubai and Las Vegas have modern
day versions of this phenomenon
As soon as you pass under one of the famous
large red entrance arches you arrive in a
complete different world
A world that is paradise for photographers
A couple of the photographers in the Thai
Guru team decided to spend some time in the
Bangkok version of Chinatown
If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for
some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at
Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim
Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat
SLEEPY NANA dream destination
Relatively unknown and uncrowded
Nan has it all This gem of a province
hides an abundance of cultural and
natural attractions ancient temples
pristine forests rivers mountain
peaks but what strikes you most is
its omnipresent feel of an untroubled
authentic way of life
Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings
you this genuine feel in pictures and footage
For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of
Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant
nature and the nature of its people show
Thailand - as is often said before hordes of
tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas
it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan
managed to escape this proces but will it stay
that way Nan shares most of its border with
neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening
of the border and beyond towards China it is to
be expected that it will ultimately become an
important gateway for trade and tourism
Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town
and the countryside will enchant you and the natural
cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy
for at least a couple of days The town along the banks
of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base
to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night
life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous
temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue
influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The
great surroundings can best be explored by renting a
motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo
Much of the province is devoted to farming
Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still
being practised in areas of the province resulting
in a landscape where forests and fields alternate
Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside
of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature
peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich
natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the
province sees far fewer visitors than popular
neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You
can go white water rafting on the Wa River
along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim
National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay
overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes
Touring Nan
Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern
lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities
of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old
salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via
endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges
and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with
orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers
Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready
to be harvested broke through the green hills
giving a golden hue to the landscape
We encountered friendly villagers who worked
their way through the dry fields - meanwhile
singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to
supplement their meager incomes Despite their
hardship they showed us their heartwarming
hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes
with us
This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi
Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and
sparsely populated that we only passed two
cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos
difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand
nowadays
PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river
The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness
begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over
the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above
the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is
broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices
Then the carved image of a Naga becomes
visible above the water line followed by more
than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted
in red and gold colorshellip
During the year the remote provincial town
of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a
year for the annual spectacle of traditional
Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos
water artery The finals are held over two
days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos
banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite
team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in
Thailand yet relatively unknown
The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long
simple shelters where the massive dragon boats
are housed during the year Just once a year
they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos
most important sporting and social event The
event takes place right after the end of the
rainy season around early November when
water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at
their highest The colorful races are part of the
festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the
last day of Buddhist Lent in October
The narrow boats are made from massive
hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters
in length depending how many paddlers they
are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily
distinguishable by their use of bright colors and
mythical designs in the traditional local style
The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of
each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting
only the good ones to participate in their race
How to get there
Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is
connected by plane and by bus to the rest of
the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan
Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice
each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to
Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to
Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on
the service
Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan
(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8
hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)
The contestants of the races are classified into
three categories mdashlarge medium and small
boats Depending on their length each boat can
accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers
sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the
same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously
against the current to the frantic beating of a
drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern
The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying
their attempt to reach the finish line first and
the paddles churning up the river creates a
spectacular atmosphere
Son
g K
ran
in
Ch
ian
g M
ai
Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of
the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down
in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The
days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing
steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the
hot months of April and May The stifling mid-
day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out
unless necessary The buzz around town about
some festival called Song Kran is starting to
increase an underlying excitement rising
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
contact us
infothaigurumagazinecom
All videos in this magazine are
available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
Although the festivities officially last for the best
part of a week it is the last three days that are
the busiest
Visitors can join in with a range of activities
including fruit carving or just wander around the
historic park listening to live traditional music
watching Thai martial arts or join the parade
of dancers musicians and beauty contestants
all dressed in sumptuous brightly-coloured
costumes
There are numerous places to stay for the
duration of the festival but it is advisable to
book ahead if you can because this is a very
popular holiday with lots of Thais travelling north
from Bangkok or south from Chiang Mai
Chiang Mai Temples
A visit to a temple in Thailand is
unavoidable They are everywhere
We at Thai Guru are well aware that
because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can
quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang
Mai With this in mind (and because
the city is overflowing with hundreds
of them) we have chosen a few of
our favourites we hope are slightly
alternative to the ones on the usual
tourist itinerary
Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to
the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its
latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of
the skills of the local silversmiths Like many
of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was
established several centuries ago The ubosoth
or ordination hall is an intricately designed
silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in
the sunlight
The area around Wua Lai has been the home to
silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past
couple of centuries who are famed throughout
the kingdom for creating detailed embossed
relief patterns on the objects they create
something that is immediately evident and
celebrated at Wat Srisuphan
The larger more traditionally decorated red blue
and gold prayer hall also contains impressive
silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos
life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft
museum
Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the
artisans at work and the temple has its own
silver-working school where apprentices are
trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive
Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved
in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-
robed residents of the temple improve their
linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also
available
Unfortunately women are not allowed to
enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this
is explained on a sign outside the wording of
which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in
the monastic boundary many precious things
incantations amulets and other holy objects
were buried over 500 years ago Entering
inside this area may deteriorated the place or
otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most
of the interior can be appreciated from the
doorway
Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous
for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged
Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai
Due to its being less well advertised than its
neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham
is often a more peaceful temple from which
to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang
Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist
Lent when the place was alive with worshippers
Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once
the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic
giants Following a visit from the Buddha the
giants decided to mend their ways stop eating
their neighbours and convert to Buddhism
For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and
offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the
templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally
constructed towards the end of the 7th century
Although the temple fell into disrepair over the
centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered
a chamber containing a number of Buddha
images The discovery led to the revitalisation of
this mountain top temple
The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are
guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured
sword-wielding warriors The courtyard
overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and
bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of
food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the
road leading to the temple
Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-
west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek
and easily accessible by car or taxi
Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai
was being established the name translates
as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably
because it was used to cast Buddha images for
its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The
entrance to the temple is through a small but
intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos
assembly hall is notable because it is one of the
only viharns of its type constructed solely from
teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a
superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock
astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference
to the king who once used the wooden hall as
his palace The gilded image features mythical
creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured
glass
The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite
from the busy road outside Wooden boxes
contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm
leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a
large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors
Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks
like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a
small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less
imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo
temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru
recommends a quick visit if you are passing
Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous
temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi
Luang
The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the
largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it
was damaged either by an earthquake in the
16th century or cannon fire from the guns
of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese
in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO
funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps
up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga
serpents and a group of five elephants (only the
one without a trunk or ears partially survived
whatever caused the structure to collapse the
others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi
was also once home to one of the most revered
religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald
Buddha Although the original now resides in
Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and
once again looks out over the city from a niche
on the east side of the structure
Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and
now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly
hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance
is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a
great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar
housed in a building at the base of the tree
Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although
one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few
alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed
Mae Hong Son
It is said that Mae Hong Son is the
most authentic and mountainous
province of Thailand For Thai Guru a
good reason to explore this province
side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai
province
Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of
Thailand The northern most part of this
province is at a distance of 924 km from
Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province
in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son
borders Myanmar On the south and east side it
borders Tak and Chiang Mai province
We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast
on the 108 road The scenery is woody and
mountainous so far so good And as we leave
the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek
for wildlife and beautiful landscapes
The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage
is that our average speed drops to less than
15 km hour No worries when you do trips
like these the clock stops and the only thing
on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning
landscapes that unfold before your eyes
The main road is well paved But as you might
understand we regularly go off road
This is the best way to come into contact with
locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo
While we are standing somewhere taking in the
beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a
falcon calling
A short walk through the forrest the sound
stops and we decide to sit down for some
water and well earned rest After a short while I
hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo
There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters
above us a white rumped falcon
Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras
it stays there and even when we start making
noises because we want to film it in flight it
takes itrsquos time
Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of
Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They
cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more
Of course they also have their own cattle And
walking through one of their small villages they
are very friendly and hospitable
It has to be said it is never smart to enter
a community or people with your camera
as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask
the people if they mind if you taking their
photograph or want to film their daily life
In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to
the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean
and offers a nice variety food on the terrace
with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city
where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists
Really nice to stroll down the walking street and
find food or a nice souvenir People are very
friendly as usual
From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae
Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an
average speed of 15 km hour
Halfway we jump out of the car into a river
Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to
keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn
but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around
without it
Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome
us and are gladly willing to allow us to make
photographs and film them
In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early
morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises
For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum
After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark
Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon
So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team
ChinatownBangkok
Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese
people in big cities around the world
Manhattan San Francisco Manilla
Paris and Boston have them and
more keep being officially recognised
in their role as historical and touristic
center every year Even places like
Dubai and Las Vegas have modern
day versions of this phenomenon
As soon as you pass under one of the famous
large red entrance arches you arrive in a
complete different world
A world that is paradise for photographers
A couple of the photographers in the Thai
Guru team decided to spend some time in the
Bangkok version of Chinatown
If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for
some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at
Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim
Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat
SLEEPY NANA dream destination
Relatively unknown and uncrowded
Nan has it all This gem of a province
hides an abundance of cultural and
natural attractions ancient temples
pristine forests rivers mountain
peaks but what strikes you most is
its omnipresent feel of an untroubled
authentic way of life
Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings
you this genuine feel in pictures and footage
For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of
Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant
nature and the nature of its people show
Thailand - as is often said before hordes of
tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas
it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan
managed to escape this proces but will it stay
that way Nan shares most of its border with
neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening
of the border and beyond towards China it is to
be expected that it will ultimately become an
important gateway for trade and tourism
Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town
and the countryside will enchant you and the natural
cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy
for at least a couple of days The town along the banks
of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base
to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night
life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous
temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue
influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The
great surroundings can best be explored by renting a
motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo
Much of the province is devoted to farming
Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still
being practised in areas of the province resulting
in a landscape where forests and fields alternate
Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside
of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature
peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich
natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the
province sees far fewer visitors than popular
neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You
can go white water rafting on the Wa River
along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim
National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay
overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes
Touring Nan
Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern
lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities
of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old
salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via
endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges
and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with
orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers
Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready
to be harvested broke through the green hills
giving a golden hue to the landscape
We encountered friendly villagers who worked
their way through the dry fields - meanwhile
singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to
supplement their meager incomes Despite their
hardship they showed us their heartwarming
hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes
with us
This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi
Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and
sparsely populated that we only passed two
cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos
difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand
nowadays
PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river
The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness
begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over
the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above
the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is
broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices
Then the carved image of a Naga becomes
visible above the water line followed by more
than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted
in red and gold colorshellip
During the year the remote provincial town
of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a
year for the annual spectacle of traditional
Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos
water artery The finals are held over two
days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos
banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite
team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in
Thailand yet relatively unknown
The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long
simple shelters where the massive dragon boats
are housed during the year Just once a year
they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos
most important sporting and social event The
event takes place right after the end of the
rainy season around early November when
water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at
their highest The colorful races are part of the
festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the
last day of Buddhist Lent in October
The narrow boats are made from massive
hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters
in length depending how many paddlers they
are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily
distinguishable by their use of bright colors and
mythical designs in the traditional local style
The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of
each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting
only the good ones to participate in their race
How to get there
Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is
connected by plane and by bus to the rest of
the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan
Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice
each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to
Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to
Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on
the service
Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan
(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8
hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)
The contestants of the races are classified into
three categories mdashlarge medium and small
boats Depending on their length each boat can
accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers
sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the
same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously
against the current to the frantic beating of a
drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern
The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying
their attempt to reach the finish line first and
the paddles churning up the river creates a
spectacular atmosphere
Son
g K
ran
in
Ch
ian
g M
ai
Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of
the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down
in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The
days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing
steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the
hot months of April and May The stifling mid-
day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out
unless necessary The buzz around town about
some festival called Song Kran is starting to
increase an underlying excitement rising
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
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infothaigurumagazinecom
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available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
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The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
Chiang Mai Temples
A visit to a temple in Thailand is
unavoidable They are everywhere
We at Thai Guru are well aware that
because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can
quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang
Mai With this in mind (and because
the city is overflowing with hundreds
of them) we have chosen a few of
our favourites we hope are slightly
alternative to the ones on the usual
tourist itinerary
Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to
the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its
latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of
the skills of the local silversmiths Like many
of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was
established several centuries ago The ubosoth
or ordination hall is an intricately designed
silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in
the sunlight
The area around Wua Lai has been the home to
silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past
couple of centuries who are famed throughout
the kingdom for creating detailed embossed
relief patterns on the objects they create
something that is immediately evident and
celebrated at Wat Srisuphan
The larger more traditionally decorated red blue
and gold prayer hall also contains impressive
silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos
life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft
museum
Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the
artisans at work and the temple has its own
silver-working school where apprentices are
trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive
Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved
in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-
robed residents of the temple improve their
linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also
available
Unfortunately women are not allowed to
enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this
is explained on a sign outside the wording of
which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in
the monastic boundary many precious things
incantations amulets and other holy objects
were buried over 500 years ago Entering
inside this area may deteriorated the place or
otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most
of the interior can be appreciated from the
doorway
Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous
for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged
Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai
Due to its being less well advertised than its
neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham
is often a more peaceful temple from which
to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang
Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist
Lent when the place was alive with worshippers
Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once
the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic
giants Following a visit from the Buddha the
giants decided to mend their ways stop eating
their neighbours and convert to Buddhism
For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and
offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the
templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally
constructed towards the end of the 7th century
Although the temple fell into disrepair over the
centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered
a chamber containing a number of Buddha
images The discovery led to the revitalisation of
this mountain top temple
The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are
guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured
sword-wielding warriors The courtyard
overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and
bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of
food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the
road leading to the temple
Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-
west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek
and easily accessible by car or taxi
Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai
was being established the name translates
as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably
because it was used to cast Buddha images for
its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The
entrance to the temple is through a small but
intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos
assembly hall is notable because it is one of the
only viharns of its type constructed solely from
teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a
superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock
astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference
to the king who once used the wooden hall as
his palace The gilded image features mythical
creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured
glass
The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite
from the busy road outside Wooden boxes
contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm
leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a
large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors
Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks
like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a
small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less
imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo
temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru
recommends a quick visit if you are passing
Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous
temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi
Luang
The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the
largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it
was damaged either by an earthquake in the
16th century or cannon fire from the guns
of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese
in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO
funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps
up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga
serpents and a group of five elephants (only the
one without a trunk or ears partially survived
whatever caused the structure to collapse the
others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi
was also once home to one of the most revered
religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald
Buddha Although the original now resides in
Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and
once again looks out over the city from a niche
on the east side of the structure
Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and
now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly
hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance
is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a
great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar
housed in a building at the base of the tree
Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although
one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few
alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed
Mae Hong Son
It is said that Mae Hong Son is the
most authentic and mountainous
province of Thailand For Thai Guru a
good reason to explore this province
side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai
province
Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of
Thailand The northern most part of this
province is at a distance of 924 km from
Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province
in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son
borders Myanmar On the south and east side it
borders Tak and Chiang Mai province
We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast
on the 108 road The scenery is woody and
mountainous so far so good And as we leave
the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek
for wildlife and beautiful landscapes
The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage
is that our average speed drops to less than
15 km hour No worries when you do trips
like these the clock stops and the only thing
on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning
landscapes that unfold before your eyes
The main road is well paved But as you might
understand we regularly go off road
This is the best way to come into contact with
locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo
While we are standing somewhere taking in the
beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a
falcon calling
A short walk through the forrest the sound
stops and we decide to sit down for some
water and well earned rest After a short while I
hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo
There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters
above us a white rumped falcon
Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras
it stays there and even when we start making
noises because we want to film it in flight it
takes itrsquos time
Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of
Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They
cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more
Of course they also have their own cattle And
walking through one of their small villages they
are very friendly and hospitable
It has to be said it is never smart to enter
a community or people with your camera
as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask
the people if they mind if you taking their
photograph or want to film their daily life
In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to
the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean
and offers a nice variety food on the terrace
with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city
where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists
Really nice to stroll down the walking street and
find food or a nice souvenir People are very
friendly as usual
From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae
Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an
average speed of 15 km hour
Halfway we jump out of the car into a river
Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to
keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn
but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around
without it
Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome
us and are gladly willing to allow us to make
photographs and film them
In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early
morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises
For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum
After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark
Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon
So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team
ChinatownBangkok
Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese
people in big cities around the world
Manhattan San Francisco Manilla
Paris and Boston have them and
more keep being officially recognised
in their role as historical and touristic
center every year Even places like
Dubai and Las Vegas have modern
day versions of this phenomenon
As soon as you pass under one of the famous
large red entrance arches you arrive in a
complete different world
A world that is paradise for photographers
A couple of the photographers in the Thai
Guru team decided to spend some time in the
Bangkok version of Chinatown
If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for
some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at
Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim
Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat
SLEEPY NANA dream destination
Relatively unknown and uncrowded
Nan has it all This gem of a province
hides an abundance of cultural and
natural attractions ancient temples
pristine forests rivers mountain
peaks but what strikes you most is
its omnipresent feel of an untroubled
authentic way of life
Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings
you this genuine feel in pictures and footage
For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of
Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant
nature and the nature of its people show
Thailand - as is often said before hordes of
tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas
it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan
managed to escape this proces but will it stay
that way Nan shares most of its border with
neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening
of the border and beyond towards China it is to
be expected that it will ultimately become an
important gateway for trade and tourism
Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town
and the countryside will enchant you and the natural
cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy
for at least a couple of days The town along the banks
of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base
to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night
life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous
temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue
influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The
great surroundings can best be explored by renting a
motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo
Much of the province is devoted to farming
Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still
being practised in areas of the province resulting
in a landscape where forests and fields alternate
Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside
of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature
peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich
natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the
province sees far fewer visitors than popular
neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You
can go white water rafting on the Wa River
along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim
National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay
overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes
Touring Nan
Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern
lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities
of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old
salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via
endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges
and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with
orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers
Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready
to be harvested broke through the green hills
giving a golden hue to the landscape
We encountered friendly villagers who worked
their way through the dry fields - meanwhile
singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to
supplement their meager incomes Despite their
hardship they showed us their heartwarming
hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes
with us
This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi
Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and
sparsely populated that we only passed two
cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos
difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand
nowadays
PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river
The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness
begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over
the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above
the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is
broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices
Then the carved image of a Naga becomes
visible above the water line followed by more
than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted
in red and gold colorshellip
During the year the remote provincial town
of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a
year for the annual spectacle of traditional
Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos
water artery The finals are held over two
days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos
banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite
team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in
Thailand yet relatively unknown
The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long
simple shelters where the massive dragon boats
are housed during the year Just once a year
they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos
most important sporting and social event The
event takes place right after the end of the
rainy season around early November when
water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at
their highest The colorful races are part of the
festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the
last day of Buddhist Lent in October
The narrow boats are made from massive
hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters
in length depending how many paddlers they
are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily
distinguishable by their use of bright colors and
mythical designs in the traditional local style
The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of
each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting
only the good ones to participate in their race
How to get there
Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is
connected by plane and by bus to the rest of
the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan
Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice
each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to
Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to
Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on
the service
Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan
(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8
hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)
The contestants of the races are classified into
three categories mdashlarge medium and small
boats Depending on their length each boat can
accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers
sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the
same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously
against the current to the frantic beating of a
drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern
The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying
their attempt to reach the finish line first and
the paddles churning up the river creates a
spectacular atmosphere
Son
g K
ran
in
Ch
ian
g M
ai
Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of
the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down
in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The
days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing
steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the
hot months of April and May The stifling mid-
day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out
unless necessary The buzz around town about
some festival called Song Kran is starting to
increase an underlying excitement rising
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
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infothaigurumagazinecom
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available in HD on our youtube channel
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Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
A visit to a temple in Thailand is
unavoidable They are everywhere
We at Thai Guru are well aware that
because of this lsquotemple fatiguersquo can
quickly set in for any visitor to Chiang
Mai With this in mind (and because
the city is overflowing with hundreds
of them) we have chosen a few of
our favourites we hope are slightly
alternative to the ones on the usual
tourist itinerary
Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to
the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its
latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of
the skills of the local silversmiths Like many
of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was
established several centuries ago The ubosoth
or ordination hall is an intricately designed
silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in
the sunlight
The area around Wua Lai has been the home to
silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past
couple of centuries who are famed throughout
the kingdom for creating detailed embossed
relief patterns on the objects they create
something that is immediately evident and
celebrated at Wat Srisuphan
The larger more traditionally decorated red blue
and gold prayer hall also contains impressive
silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos
life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft
museum
Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the
artisans at work and the temple has its own
silver-working school where apprentices are
trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive
Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved
in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-
robed residents of the temple improve their
linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also
available
Unfortunately women are not allowed to
enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this
is explained on a sign outside the wording of
which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in
the monastic boundary many precious things
incantations amulets and other holy objects
were buried over 500 years ago Entering
inside this area may deteriorated the place or
otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most
of the interior can be appreciated from the
doorway
Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous
for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged
Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai
Due to its being less well advertised than its
neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham
is often a more peaceful temple from which
to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang
Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist
Lent when the place was alive with worshippers
Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once
the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic
giants Following a visit from the Buddha the
giants decided to mend their ways stop eating
their neighbours and convert to Buddhism
For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and
offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the
templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally
constructed towards the end of the 7th century
Although the temple fell into disrepair over the
centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered
a chamber containing a number of Buddha
images The discovery led to the revitalisation of
this mountain top temple
The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are
guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured
sword-wielding warriors The courtyard
overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and
bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of
food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the
road leading to the temple
Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-
west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek
and easily accessible by car or taxi
Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai
was being established the name translates
as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably
because it was used to cast Buddha images for
its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The
entrance to the temple is through a small but
intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos
assembly hall is notable because it is one of the
only viharns of its type constructed solely from
teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a
superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock
astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference
to the king who once used the wooden hall as
his palace The gilded image features mythical
creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured
glass
The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite
from the busy road outside Wooden boxes
contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm
leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a
large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors
Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks
like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a
small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less
imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo
temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru
recommends a quick visit if you are passing
Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous
temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi
Luang
The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the
largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it
was damaged either by an earthquake in the
16th century or cannon fire from the guns
of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese
in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO
funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps
up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga
serpents and a group of five elephants (only the
one without a trunk or ears partially survived
whatever caused the structure to collapse the
others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi
was also once home to one of the most revered
religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald
Buddha Although the original now resides in
Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and
once again looks out over the city from a niche
on the east side of the structure
Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and
now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly
hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance
is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a
great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar
housed in a building at the base of the tree
Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although
one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few
alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed
Mae Hong Son
It is said that Mae Hong Son is the
most authentic and mountainous
province of Thailand For Thai Guru a
good reason to explore this province
side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai
province
Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of
Thailand The northern most part of this
province is at a distance of 924 km from
Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province
in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son
borders Myanmar On the south and east side it
borders Tak and Chiang Mai province
We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast
on the 108 road The scenery is woody and
mountainous so far so good And as we leave
the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek
for wildlife and beautiful landscapes
The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage
is that our average speed drops to less than
15 km hour No worries when you do trips
like these the clock stops and the only thing
on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning
landscapes that unfold before your eyes
The main road is well paved But as you might
understand we regularly go off road
This is the best way to come into contact with
locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo
While we are standing somewhere taking in the
beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a
falcon calling
A short walk through the forrest the sound
stops and we decide to sit down for some
water and well earned rest After a short while I
hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo
There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters
above us a white rumped falcon
Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras
it stays there and even when we start making
noises because we want to film it in flight it
takes itrsquos time
Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of
Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They
cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more
Of course they also have their own cattle And
walking through one of their small villages they
are very friendly and hospitable
It has to be said it is never smart to enter
a community or people with your camera
as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask
the people if they mind if you taking their
photograph or want to film their daily life
In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to
the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean
and offers a nice variety food on the terrace
with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city
where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists
Really nice to stroll down the walking street and
find food or a nice souvenir People are very
friendly as usual
From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae
Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an
average speed of 15 km hour
Halfway we jump out of the car into a river
Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to
keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn
but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around
without it
Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome
us and are gladly willing to allow us to make
photographs and film them
In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early
morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises
For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum
After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark
Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon
So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team
ChinatownBangkok
Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese
people in big cities around the world
Manhattan San Francisco Manilla
Paris and Boston have them and
more keep being officially recognised
in their role as historical and touristic
center every year Even places like
Dubai and Las Vegas have modern
day versions of this phenomenon
As soon as you pass under one of the famous
large red entrance arches you arrive in a
complete different world
A world that is paradise for photographers
A couple of the photographers in the Thai
Guru team decided to spend some time in the
Bangkok version of Chinatown
If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for
some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at
Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim
Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat
SLEEPY NANA dream destination
Relatively unknown and uncrowded
Nan has it all This gem of a province
hides an abundance of cultural and
natural attractions ancient temples
pristine forests rivers mountain
peaks but what strikes you most is
its omnipresent feel of an untroubled
authentic way of life
Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings
you this genuine feel in pictures and footage
For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of
Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant
nature and the nature of its people show
Thailand - as is often said before hordes of
tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas
it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan
managed to escape this proces but will it stay
that way Nan shares most of its border with
neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening
of the border and beyond towards China it is to
be expected that it will ultimately become an
important gateway for trade and tourism
Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town
and the countryside will enchant you and the natural
cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy
for at least a couple of days The town along the banks
of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base
to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night
life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous
temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue
influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The
great surroundings can best be explored by renting a
motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo
Much of the province is devoted to farming
Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still
being practised in areas of the province resulting
in a landscape where forests and fields alternate
Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside
of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature
peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich
natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the
province sees far fewer visitors than popular
neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You
can go white water rafting on the Wa River
along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim
National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay
overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes
Touring Nan
Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern
lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities
of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old
salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via
endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges
and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with
orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers
Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready
to be harvested broke through the green hills
giving a golden hue to the landscape
We encountered friendly villagers who worked
their way through the dry fields - meanwhile
singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to
supplement their meager incomes Despite their
hardship they showed us their heartwarming
hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes
with us
This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi
Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and
sparsely populated that we only passed two
cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos
difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand
nowadays
PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river
The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness
begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over
the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above
the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is
broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices
Then the carved image of a Naga becomes
visible above the water line followed by more
than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted
in red and gold colorshellip
During the year the remote provincial town
of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a
year for the annual spectacle of traditional
Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos
water artery The finals are held over two
days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos
banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite
team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in
Thailand yet relatively unknown
The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long
simple shelters where the massive dragon boats
are housed during the year Just once a year
they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos
most important sporting and social event The
event takes place right after the end of the
rainy season around early November when
water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at
their highest The colorful races are part of the
festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the
last day of Buddhist Lent in October
The narrow boats are made from massive
hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters
in length depending how many paddlers they
are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily
distinguishable by their use of bright colors and
mythical designs in the traditional local style
The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of
each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting
only the good ones to participate in their race
How to get there
Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is
connected by plane and by bus to the rest of
the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan
Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice
each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to
Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to
Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on
the service
Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan
(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8
hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)
The contestants of the races are classified into
three categories mdashlarge medium and small
boats Depending on their length each boat can
accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers
sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the
same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously
against the current to the frantic beating of a
drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern
The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying
their attempt to reach the finish line first and
the paddles churning up the river creates a
spectacular atmosphere
Son
g K
ran
in
Ch
ian
g M
ai
Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of
the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down
in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The
days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing
steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the
hot months of April and May The stifling mid-
day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out
unless necessary The buzz around town about
some festival called Song Kran is starting to
increase an underlying excitement rising
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
contact us
infothaigurumagazinecom
All videos in this magazine are
available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
Wat SrisuphanSituated on a quiet soi just off Wua Lai road to
the south of the old city Wat Srisuphan in its
latest incarnation is a stunning celebration of
the skills of the local silversmiths Like many
of the temples in Chiang Mai Srisuphan was
established several centuries ago The ubosoth
or ordination hall is an intricately designed
silver-metal clad construction that sparkles in
the sunlight
The area around Wua Lai has been the home to
silver smiths and skilled craftsmen for the past
couple of centuries who are famed throughout
the kingdom for creating detailed embossed
relief patterns on the objects they create
something that is immediately evident and
celebrated at Wat Srisuphan
The larger more traditionally decorated red blue
and gold prayer hall also contains impressive
silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos
life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft
museum
Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the
artisans at work and the temple has its own
silver-working school where apprentices are
trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive
Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved
in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-
robed residents of the temple improve their
linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also
available
Unfortunately women are not allowed to
enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this
is explained on a sign outside the wording of
which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in
the monastic boundary many precious things
incantations amulets and other holy objects
were buried over 500 years ago Entering
inside this area may deteriorated the place or
otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most
of the interior can be appreciated from the
doorway
Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous
for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged
Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai
Due to its being less well advertised than its
neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham
is often a more peaceful temple from which
to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang
Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist
Lent when the place was alive with worshippers
Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once
the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic
giants Following a visit from the Buddha the
giants decided to mend their ways stop eating
their neighbours and convert to Buddhism
For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and
offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the
templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally
constructed towards the end of the 7th century
Although the temple fell into disrepair over the
centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered
a chamber containing a number of Buddha
images The discovery led to the revitalisation of
this mountain top temple
The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are
guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured
sword-wielding warriors The courtyard
overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and
bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of
food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the
road leading to the temple
Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-
west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek
and easily accessible by car or taxi
Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai
was being established the name translates
as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably
because it was used to cast Buddha images for
its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The
entrance to the temple is through a small but
intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos
assembly hall is notable because it is one of the
only viharns of its type constructed solely from
teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a
superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock
astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference
to the king who once used the wooden hall as
his palace The gilded image features mythical
creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured
glass
The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite
from the busy road outside Wooden boxes
contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm
leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a
large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors
Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks
like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a
small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less
imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo
temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru
recommends a quick visit if you are passing
Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous
temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi
Luang
The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the
largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it
was damaged either by an earthquake in the
16th century or cannon fire from the guns
of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese
in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO
funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps
up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga
serpents and a group of five elephants (only the
one without a trunk or ears partially survived
whatever caused the structure to collapse the
others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi
was also once home to one of the most revered
religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald
Buddha Although the original now resides in
Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and
once again looks out over the city from a niche
on the east side of the structure
Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and
now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly
hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance
is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a
great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar
housed in a building at the base of the tree
Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although
one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few
alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed
Mae Hong Son
It is said that Mae Hong Son is the
most authentic and mountainous
province of Thailand For Thai Guru a
good reason to explore this province
side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai
province
Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of
Thailand The northern most part of this
province is at a distance of 924 km from
Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province
in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son
borders Myanmar On the south and east side it
borders Tak and Chiang Mai province
We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast
on the 108 road The scenery is woody and
mountainous so far so good And as we leave
the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek
for wildlife and beautiful landscapes
The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage
is that our average speed drops to less than
15 km hour No worries when you do trips
like these the clock stops and the only thing
on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning
landscapes that unfold before your eyes
The main road is well paved But as you might
understand we regularly go off road
This is the best way to come into contact with
locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo
While we are standing somewhere taking in the
beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a
falcon calling
A short walk through the forrest the sound
stops and we decide to sit down for some
water and well earned rest After a short while I
hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo
There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters
above us a white rumped falcon
Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras
it stays there and even when we start making
noises because we want to film it in flight it
takes itrsquos time
Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of
Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They
cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more
Of course they also have their own cattle And
walking through one of their small villages they
are very friendly and hospitable
It has to be said it is never smart to enter
a community or people with your camera
as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask
the people if they mind if you taking their
photograph or want to film their daily life
In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to
the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean
and offers a nice variety food on the terrace
with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city
where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists
Really nice to stroll down the walking street and
find food or a nice souvenir People are very
friendly as usual
From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae
Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an
average speed of 15 km hour
Halfway we jump out of the car into a river
Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to
keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn
but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around
without it
Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome
us and are gladly willing to allow us to make
photographs and film them
In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early
morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises
For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum
After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark
Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon
So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team
ChinatownBangkok
Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese
people in big cities around the world
Manhattan San Francisco Manilla
Paris and Boston have them and
more keep being officially recognised
in their role as historical and touristic
center every year Even places like
Dubai and Las Vegas have modern
day versions of this phenomenon
As soon as you pass under one of the famous
large red entrance arches you arrive in a
complete different world
A world that is paradise for photographers
A couple of the photographers in the Thai
Guru team decided to spend some time in the
Bangkok version of Chinatown
If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for
some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at
Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim
Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat
SLEEPY NANA dream destination
Relatively unknown and uncrowded
Nan has it all This gem of a province
hides an abundance of cultural and
natural attractions ancient temples
pristine forests rivers mountain
peaks but what strikes you most is
its omnipresent feel of an untroubled
authentic way of life
Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings
you this genuine feel in pictures and footage
For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of
Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant
nature and the nature of its people show
Thailand - as is often said before hordes of
tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas
it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan
managed to escape this proces but will it stay
that way Nan shares most of its border with
neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening
of the border and beyond towards China it is to
be expected that it will ultimately become an
important gateway for trade and tourism
Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town
and the countryside will enchant you and the natural
cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy
for at least a couple of days The town along the banks
of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base
to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night
life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous
temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue
influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The
great surroundings can best be explored by renting a
motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo
Much of the province is devoted to farming
Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still
being practised in areas of the province resulting
in a landscape where forests and fields alternate
Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside
of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature
peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich
natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the
province sees far fewer visitors than popular
neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You
can go white water rafting on the Wa River
along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim
National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay
overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes
Touring Nan
Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern
lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities
of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old
salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via
endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges
and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with
orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers
Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready
to be harvested broke through the green hills
giving a golden hue to the landscape
We encountered friendly villagers who worked
their way through the dry fields - meanwhile
singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to
supplement their meager incomes Despite their
hardship they showed us their heartwarming
hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes
with us
This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi
Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and
sparsely populated that we only passed two
cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos
difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand
nowadays
PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river
The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness
begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over
the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above
the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is
broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices
Then the carved image of a Naga becomes
visible above the water line followed by more
than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted
in red and gold colorshellip
During the year the remote provincial town
of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a
year for the annual spectacle of traditional
Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos
water artery The finals are held over two
days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos
banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite
team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in
Thailand yet relatively unknown
The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long
simple shelters where the massive dragon boats
are housed during the year Just once a year
they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos
most important sporting and social event The
event takes place right after the end of the
rainy season around early November when
water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at
their highest The colorful races are part of the
festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the
last day of Buddhist Lent in October
The narrow boats are made from massive
hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters
in length depending how many paddlers they
are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily
distinguishable by their use of bright colors and
mythical designs in the traditional local style
The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of
each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting
only the good ones to participate in their race
How to get there
Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is
connected by plane and by bus to the rest of
the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan
Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice
each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to
Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to
Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on
the service
Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan
(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8
hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)
The contestants of the races are classified into
three categories mdashlarge medium and small
boats Depending on their length each boat can
accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers
sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the
same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously
against the current to the frantic beating of a
drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern
The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying
their attempt to reach the finish line first and
the paddles churning up the river creates a
spectacular atmosphere
Son
g K
ran
in
Ch
ian
g M
ai
Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of
the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down
in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The
days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing
steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the
hot months of April and May The stifling mid-
day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out
unless necessary The buzz around town about
some festival called Song Kran is starting to
increase an underlying excitement rising
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
contact us
infothaigurumagazinecom
All videos in this magazine are
available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
The larger more traditionally decorated red blue
and gold prayer hall also contains impressive
silver panels celebrating the stories of Buddharsquos
life Also in the temple grounds is a Lanna craft
museum
Visitors to Wua Lai are welcome to watch the
artisans at work and the temple has its own
silver-working school where apprentices are
trained to keep the Lanna silver tradition alive
Wat Srisuphan also invites people to get involved
in a lsquomonk chatrsquo session to help the saffron-
robed residents of the temple improve their
linguistic skills Meditation sessions are also
available
Unfortunately women are not allowed to
enter the silver ubosoth The reason for this
is explained on a sign outside the wording of
which is ldquoBeneath the base of Ubosotha in
the monastic boundary many precious things
incantations amulets and other holy objects
were buried over 500 years ago Entering
inside this area may deteriorated the place or
otherwise the lady herselfrdquo Thankfully most
of the interior can be appreciated from the
doorway
Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous
for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged
Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai
Due to its being less well advertised than its
neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham
is often a more peaceful temple from which
to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang
Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist
Lent when the place was alive with worshippers
Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once
the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic
giants Following a visit from the Buddha the
giants decided to mend their ways stop eating
their neighbours and convert to Buddhism
For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and
offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the
templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally
constructed towards the end of the 7th century
Although the temple fell into disrepair over the
centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered
a chamber containing a number of Buddha
images The discovery led to the revitalisation of
this mountain top temple
The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are
guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured
sword-wielding warriors The courtyard
overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and
bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of
food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the
road leading to the temple
Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-
west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek
and easily accessible by car or taxi
Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai
was being established the name translates
as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably
because it was used to cast Buddha images for
its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The
entrance to the temple is through a small but
intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos
assembly hall is notable because it is one of the
only viharns of its type constructed solely from
teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a
superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock
astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference
to the king who once used the wooden hall as
his palace The gilded image features mythical
creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured
glass
The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite
from the busy road outside Wooden boxes
contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm
leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a
large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors
Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks
like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a
small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less
imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo
temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru
recommends a quick visit if you are passing
Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous
temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi
Luang
The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the
largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it
was damaged either by an earthquake in the
16th century or cannon fire from the guns
of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese
in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO
funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps
up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga
serpents and a group of five elephants (only the
one without a trunk or ears partially survived
whatever caused the structure to collapse the
others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi
was also once home to one of the most revered
religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald
Buddha Although the original now resides in
Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and
once again looks out over the city from a niche
on the east side of the structure
Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and
now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly
hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance
is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a
great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar
housed in a building at the base of the tree
Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although
one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few
alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed
Mae Hong Son
It is said that Mae Hong Son is the
most authentic and mountainous
province of Thailand For Thai Guru a
good reason to explore this province
side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai
province
Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of
Thailand The northern most part of this
province is at a distance of 924 km from
Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province
in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son
borders Myanmar On the south and east side it
borders Tak and Chiang Mai province
We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast
on the 108 road The scenery is woody and
mountainous so far so good And as we leave
the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek
for wildlife and beautiful landscapes
The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage
is that our average speed drops to less than
15 km hour No worries when you do trips
like these the clock stops and the only thing
on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning
landscapes that unfold before your eyes
The main road is well paved But as you might
understand we regularly go off road
This is the best way to come into contact with
locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo
While we are standing somewhere taking in the
beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a
falcon calling
A short walk through the forrest the sound
stops and we decide to sit down for some
water and well earned rest After a short while I
hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo
There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters
above us a white rumped falcon
Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras
it stays there and even when we start making
noises because we want to film it in flight it
takes itrsquos time
Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of
Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They
cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more
Of course they also have their own cattle And
walking through one of their small villages they
are very friendly and hospitable
It has to be said it is never smart to enter
a community or people with your camera
as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask
the people if they mind if you taking their
photograph or want to film their daily life
In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to
the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean
and offers a nice variety food on the terrace
with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city
where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists
Really nice to stroll down the walking street and
find food or a nice souvenir People are very
friendly as usual
From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae
Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an
average speed of 15 km hour
Halfway we jump out of the car into a river
Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to
keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn
but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around
without it
Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome
us and are gladly willing to allow us to make
photographs and film them
In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early
morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises
For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum
After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark
Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon
So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team
ChinatownBangkok
Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese
people in big cities around the world
Manhattan San Francisco Manilla
Paris and Boston have them and
more keep being officially recognised
in their role as historical and touristic
center every year Even places like
Dubai and Las Vegas have modern
day versions of this phenomenon
As soon as you pass under one of the famous
large red entrance arches you arrive in a
complete different world
A world that is paradise for photographers
A couple of the photographers in the Thai
Guru team decided to spend some time in the
Bangkok version of Chinatown
If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for
some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at
Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim
Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat
SLEEPY NANA dream destination
Relatively unknown and uncrowded
Nan has it all This gem of a province
hides an abundance of cultural and
natural attractions ancient temples
pristine forests rivers mountain
peaks but what strikes you most is
its omnipresent feel of an untroubled
authentic way of life
Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings
you this genuine feel in pictures and footage
For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of
Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant
nature and the nature of its people show
Thailand - as is often said before hordes of
tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas
it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan
managed to escape this proces but will it stay
that way Nan shares most of its border with
neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening
of the border and beyond towards China it is to
be expected that it will ultimately become an
important gateway for trade and tourism
Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town
and the countryside will enchant you and the natural
cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy
for at least a couple of days The town along the banks
of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base
to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night
life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous
temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue
influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The
great surroundings can best be explored by renting a
motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo
Much of the province is devoted to farming
Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still
being practised in areas of the province resulting
in a landscape where forests and fields alternate
Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside
of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature
peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich
natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the
province sees far fewer visitors than popular
neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You
can go white water rafting on the Wa River
along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim
National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay
overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes
Touring Nan
Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern
lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities
of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old
salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via
endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges
and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with
orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers
Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready
to be harvested broke through the green hills
giving a golden hue to the landscape
We encountered friendly villagers who worked
their way through the dry fields - meanwhile
singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to
supplement their meager incomes Despite their
hardship they showed us their heartwarming
hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes
with us
This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi
Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and
sparsely populated that we only passed two
cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos
difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand
nowadays
PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river
The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness
begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over
the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above
the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is
broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices
Then the carved image of a Naga becomes
visible above the water line followed by more
than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted
in red and gold colorshellip
During the year the remote provincial town
of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a
year for the annual spectacle of traditional
Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos
water artery The finals are held over two
days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos
banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite
team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in
Thailand yet relatively unknown
The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long
simple shelters where the massive dragon boats
are housed during the year Just once a year
they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos
most important sporting and social event The
event takes place right after the end of the
rainy season around early November when
water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at
their highest The colorful races are part of the
festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the
last day of Buddhist Lent in October
The narrow boats are made from massive
hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters
in length depending how many paddlers they
are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily
distinguishable by their use of bright colors and
mythical designs in the traditional local style
The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of
each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting
only the good ones to participate in their race
How to get there
Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is
connected by plane and by bus to the rest of
the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan
Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice
each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to
Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to
Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on
the service
Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan
(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8
hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)
The contestants of the races are classified into
three categories mdashlarge medium and small
boats Depending on their length each boat can
accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers
sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the
same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously
against the current to the frantic beating of a
drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern
The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying
their attempt to reach the finish line first and
the paddles churning up the river creates a
spectacular atmosphere
Son
g K
ran
in
Ch
ian
g M
ai
Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of
the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down
in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The
days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing
steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the
hot months of April and May The stifling mid-
day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out
unless necessary The buzz around town about
some festival called Song Kran is starting to
increase an underlying excitement rising
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
contact us
infothaigurumagazinecom
All videos in this magazine are
available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
Wat Prathat Doi KamThe lsquoTemple of the Golden Mountainrsquo is famous
for its imposing 17 metre high cross-legged
Buddha statue overlooking Chiang Mai
Due to its being less well advertised than its
neighbour Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Doi Kham
is often a more peaceful temple from which
to enjoy the mountainside views over Chiang
Mai However Thai Guru visited during Buddhist
Lent when the place was alive with worshippers
Legend has it that the Doi Kam area was once
the stamping ground of a pair of cannibalistic
giants Following a visit from the Buddha the
giants decided to mend their ways stop eating
their neighbours and convert to Buddhism
For this Buddha snipped off a lock of hair and
offered it as a relic that is now enshrined in the
templersquos chedi ndash said to have been originally
constructed towards the end of the 7th century
Although the temple fell into disrepair over the
centuries a heavy rainstorm in 1966 uncovered
a chamber containing a number of Buddha
images The discovery led to the revitalisation of
this mountain top temple
The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are
guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured
sword-wielding warriors The courtyard
overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and
bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of
food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the
road leading to the temple
Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-
west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek
and easily accessible by car or taxi
Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai
was being established the name translates
as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably
because it was used to cast Buddha images for
its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The
entrance to the temple is through a small but
intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos
assembly hall is notable because it is one of the
only viharns of its type constructed solely from
teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a
superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock
astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference
to the king who once used the wooden hall as
his palace The gilded image features mythical
creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured
glass
The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite
from the busy road outside Wooden boxes
contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm
leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a
large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors
Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks
like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a
small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less
imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo
temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru
recommends a quick visit if you are passing
Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous
temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi
Luang
The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the
largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it
was damaged either by an earthquake in the
16th century or cannon fire from the guns
of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese
in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO
funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps
up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga
serpents and a group of five elephants (only the
one without a trunk or ears partially survived
whatever caused the structure to collapse the
others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi
was also once home to one of the most revered
religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald
Buddha Although the original now resides in
Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and
once again looks out over the city from a niche
on the east side of the structure
Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and
now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly
hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance
is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a
great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar
housed in a building at the base of the tree
Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although
one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few
alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed
Mae Hong Son
It is said that Mae Hong Son is the
most authentic and mountainous
province of Thailand For Thai Guru a
good reason to explore this province
side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai
province
Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of
Thailand The northern most part of this
province is at a distance of 924 km from
Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province
in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son
borders Myanmar On the south and east side it
borders Tak and Chiang Mai province
We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast
on the 108 road The scenery is woody and
mountainous so far so good And as we leave
the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek
for wildlife and beautiful landscapes
The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage
is that our average speed drops to less than
15 km hour No worries when you do trips
like these the clock stops and the only thing
on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning
landscapes that unfold before your eyes
The main road is well paved But as you might
understand we regularly go off road
This is the best way to come into contact with
locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo
While we are standing somewhere taking in the
beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a
falcon calling
A short walk through the forrest the sound
stops and we decide to sit down for some
water and well earned rest After a short while I
hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo
There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters
above us a white rumped falcon
Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras
it stays there and even when we start making
noises because we want to film it in flight it
takes itrsquos time
Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of
Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They
cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more
Of course they also have their own cattle And
walking through one of their small villages they
are very friendly and hospitable
It has to be said it is never smart to enter
a community or people with your camera
as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask
the people if they mind if you taking their
photograph or want to film their daily life
In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to
the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean
and offers a nice variety food on the terrace
with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city
where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists
Really nice to stroll down the walking street and
find food or a nice souvenir People are very
friendly as usual
From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae
Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an
average speed of 15 km hour
Halfway we jump out of the car into a river
Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to
keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn
but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around
without it
Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome
us and are gladly willing to allow us to make
photographs and film them
In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early
morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises
For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum
After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark
Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon
So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team
ChinatownBangkok
Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese
people in big cities around the world
Manhattan San Francisco Manilla
Paris and Boston have them and
more keep being officially recognised
in their role as historical and touristic
center every year Even places like
Dubai and Las Vegas have modern
day versions of this phenomenon
As soon as you pass under one of the famous
large red entrance arches you arrive in a
complete different world
A world that is paradise for photographers
A couple of the photographers in the Thai
Guru team decided to spend some time in the
Bangkok version of Chinatown
If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for
some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at
Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim
Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat
SLEEPY NANA dream destination
Relatively unknown and uncrowded
Nan has it all This gem of a province
hides an abundance of cultural and
natural attractions ancient temples
pristine forests rivers mountain
peaks but what strikes you most is
its omnipresent feel of an untroubled
authentic way of life
Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings
you this genuine feel in pictures and footage
For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of
Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant
nature and the nature of its people show
Thailand - as is often said before hordes of
tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas
it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan
managed to escape this proces but will it stay
that way Nan shares most of its border with
neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening
of the border and beyond towards China it is to
be expected that it will ultimately become an
important gateway for trade and tourism
Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town
and the countryside will enchant you and the natural
cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy
for at least a couple of days The town along the banks
of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base
to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night
life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous
temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue
influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The
great surroundings can best be explored by renting a
motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo
Much of the province is devoted to farming
Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still
being practised in areas of the province resulting
in a landscape where forests and fields alternate
Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside
of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature
peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich
natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the
province sees far fewer visitors than popular
neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You
can go white water rafting on the Wa River
along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim
National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay
overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes
Touring Nan
Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern
lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities
of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old
salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via
endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges
and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with
orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers
Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready
to be harvested broke through the green hills
giving a golden hue to the landscape
We encountered friendly villagers who worked
their way through the dry fields - meanwhile
singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to
supplement their meager incomes Despite their
hardship they showed us their heartwarming
hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes
with us
This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi
Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and
sparsely populated that we only passed two
cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos
difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand
nowadays
PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river
The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness
begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over
the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above
the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is
broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices
Then the carved image of a Naga becomes
visible above the water line followed by more
than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted
in red and gold colorshellip
During the year the remote provincial town
of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a
year for the annual spectacle of traditional
Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos
water artery The finals are held over two
days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos
banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite
team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in
Thailand yet relatively unknown
The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long
simple shelters where the massive dragon boats
are housed during the year Just once a year
they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos
most important sporting and social event The
event takes place right after the end of the
rainy season around early November when
water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at
their highest The colorful races are part of the
festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the
last day of Buddhist Lent in October
The narrow boats are made from massive
hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters
in length depending how many paddlers they
are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily
distinguishable by their use of bright colors and
mythical designs in the traditional local style
The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of
each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting
only the good ones to participate in their race
How to get there
Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is
connected by plane and by bus to the rest of
the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan
Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice
each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to
Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to
Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on
the service
Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan
(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8
hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)
The contestants of the races are classified into
three categories mdashlarge medium and small
boats Depending on their length each boat can
accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers
sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the
same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously
against the current to the frantic beating of a
drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern
The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying
their attempt to reach the finish line first and
the paddles churning up the river creates a
spectacular atmosphere
Son
g K
ran
in
Ch
ian
g M
ai
Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of
the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down
in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The
days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing
steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the
hot months of April and May The stifling mid-
day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out
unless necessary The buzz around town about
some festival called Song Kran is starting to
increase an underlying excitement rising
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
contact us
infothaigurumagazinecom
All videos in this magazine are
available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
The grounds of Wat Prathat Doi Kam are
guarded by golden nagas and brightly coloured
sword-wielding warriors The courtyard
overlooking the valley is lined with gongs and
bells for visitors to bong There are also plenty of
food stalls and kiosks selling nik-naks along the
road leading to the temple
Wat Prathet Doi Kam is situated 10km south-
west of the city behind the Royal Park Rajapruek
and easily accessible by car or taxi
Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai
was being established the name translates
as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably
because it was used to cast Buddha images for
its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The
entrance to the temple is through a small but
intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos
assembly hall is notable because it is one of the
only viharns of its type constructed solely from
teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a
superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock
astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference
to the king who once used the wooden hall as
his palace The gilded image features mythical
creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured
glass
The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite
from the busy road outside Wooden boxes
contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm
leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a
large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors
Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks
like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a
small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less
imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo
temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru
recommends a quick visit if you are passing
Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous
temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi
Luang
The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the
largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it
was damaged either by an earthquake in the
16th century or cannon fire from the guns
of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese
in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO
funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps
up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga
serpents and a group of five elephants (only the
one without a trunk or ears partially survived
whatever caused the structure to collapse the
others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi
was also once home to one of the most revered
religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald
Buddha Although the original now resides in
Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and
once again looks out over the city from a niche
on the east side of the structure
Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and
now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly
hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance
is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a
great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar
housed in a building at the base of the tree
Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although
one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few
alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed
Mae Hong Son
It is said that Mae Hong Son is the
most authentic and mountainous
province of Thailand For Thai Guru a
good reason to explore this province
side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai
province
Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of
Thailand The northern most part of this
province is at a distance of 924 km from
Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province
in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son
borders Myanmar On the south and east side it
borders Tak and Chiang Mai province
We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast
on the 108 road The scenery is woody and
mountainous so far so good And as we leave
the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek
for wildlife and beautiful landscapes
The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage
is that our average speed drops to less than
15 km hour No worries when you do trips
like these the clock stops and the only thing
on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning
landscapes that unfold before your eyes
The main road is well paved But as you might
understand we regularly go off road
This is the best way to come into contact with
locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo
While we are standing somewhere taking in the
beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a
falcon calling
A short walk through the forrest the sound
stops and we decide to sit down for some
water and well earned rest After a short while I
hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo
There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters
above us a white rumped falcon
Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras
it stays there and even when we start making
noises because we want to film it in flight it
takes itrsquos time
Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of
Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They
cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more
Of course they also have their own cattle And
walking through one of their small villages they
are very friendly and hospitable
It has to be said it is never smart to enter
a community or people with your camera
as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask
the people if they mind if you taking their
photograph or want to film their daily life
In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to
the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean
and offers a nice variety food on the terrace
with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city
where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists
Really nice to stroll down the walking street and
find food or a nice souvenir People are very
friendly as usual
From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae
Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an
average speed of 15 km hour
Halfway we jump out of the car into a river
Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to
keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn
but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around
without it
Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome
us and are gladly willing to allow us to make
photographs and film them
In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early
morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises
For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum
After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark
Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon
So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team
ChinatownBangkok
Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese
people in big cities around the world
Manhattan San Francisco Manilla
Paris and Boston have them and
more keep being officially recognised
in their role as historical and touristic
center every year Even places like
Dubai and Las Vegas have modern
day versions of this phenomenon
As soon as you pass under one of the famous
large red entrance arches you arrive in a
complete different world
A world that is paradise for photographers
A couple of the photographers in the Thai
Guru team decided to spend some time in the
Bangkok version of Chinatown
If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for
some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at
Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim
Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat
SLEEPY NANA dream destination
Relatively unknown and uncrowded
Nan has it all This gem of a province
hides an abundance of cultural and
natural attractions ancient temples
pristine forests rivers mountain
peaks but what strikes you most is
its omnipresent feel of an untroubled
authentic way of life
Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings
you this genuine feel in pictures and footage
For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of
Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant
nature and the nature of its people show
Thailand - as is often said before hordes of
tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas
it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan
managed to escape this proces but will it stay
that way Nan shares most of its border with
neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening
of the border and beyond towards China it is to
be expected that it will ultimately become an
important gateway for trade and tourism
Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town
and the countryside will enchant you and the natural
cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy
for at least a couple of days The town along the banks
of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base
to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night
life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous
temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue
influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The
great surroundings can best be explored by renting a
motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo
Much of the province is devoted to farming
Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still
being practised in areas of the province resulting
in a landscape where forests and fields alternate
Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside
of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature
peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich
natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the
province sees far fewer visitors than popular
neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You
can go white water rafting on the Wa River
along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim
National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay
overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes
Touring Nan
Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern
lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities
of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old
salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via
endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges
and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with
orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers
Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready
to be harvested broke through the green hills
giving a golden hue to the landscape
We encountered friendly villagers who worked
their way through the dry fields - meanwhile
singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to
supplement their meager incomes Despite their
hardship they showed us their heartwarming
hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes
with us
This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi
Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and
sparsely populated that we only passed two
cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos
difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand
nowadays
PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river
The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness
begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over
the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above
the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is
broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices
Then the carved image of a Naga becomes
visible above the water line followed by more
than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted
in red and gold colorshellip
During the year the remote provincial town
of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a
year for the annual spectacle of traditional
Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos
water artery The finals are held over two
days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos
banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite
team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in
Thailand yet relatively unknown
The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long
simple shelters where the massive dragon boats
are housed during the year Just once a year
they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos
most important sporting and social event The
event takes place right after the end of the
rainy season around early November when
water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at
their highest The colorful races are part of the
festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the
last day of Buddhist Lent in October
The narrow boats are made from massive
hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters
in length depending how many paddlers they
are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily
distinguishable by their use of bright colors and
mythical designs in the traditional local style
The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of
each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting
only the good ones to participate in their race
How to get there
Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is
connected by plane and by bus to the rest of
the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan
Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice
each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to
Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to
Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on
the service
Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan
(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8
hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)
The contestants of the races are classified into
three categories mdashlarge medium and small
boats Depending on their length each boat can
accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers
sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the
same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously
against the current to the frantic beating of a
drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern
The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying
their attempt to reach the finish line first and
the paddles churning up the river creates a
spectacular atmosphere
Son
g K
ran
in
Ch
ian
g M
ai
Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of
the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down
in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The
days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing
steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the
hot months of April and May The stifling mid-
day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out
unless necessary The buzz around town about
some festival called Song Kran is starting to
increase an underlying excitement rising
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
contact us
infothaigurumagazinecom
All videos in this magazine are
available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
Wat PantaoDating back to around the time Chiang Mai
was being established the name translates
as lsquoTemple of a Thousand Kilnsrsquo ndash probably
because it was used to cast Buddha images for
its much larger neighbour Wat Chedi Luang The
entrance to the temple is through a small but
intricately carved stone doorway Wat Pantaorsquos
assembly hall is notable because it is one of the
only viharns of its type constructed solely from
teak The pelmet over the front of the hall is a
superbly crafted depiction of a gilded peacock
astride a crouching dog ndash a Zodiac reference
to the king who once used the wooden hall as
his palace The gilded image features mythical
creatures and is beautifully inlaid with coloured
glass
The dark interior of the hall is a peaceful respite
from the busy road outside Wooden boxes
contain ancient Buddhist texts written on palm
leaves ceramic bowls collect baht coins and a
large golden Buddha surveys kneeling visitors
Outside is a fish pond a bamboo path that looks
like a mini indoor-ski slope a white chedi and a
small bell tower Wat Pantao is smaller and less
imposing than many of the more lsquoelaboratersquo
temples in Chiang Mai and why Thai Guru
recommends a quick visit if you are passing
Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous
temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi
Luang
The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the
largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it
was damaged either by an earthquake in the
16th century or cannon fire from the guns
of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese
in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO
funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps
up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga
serpents and a group of five elephants (only the
one without a trunk or ears partially survived
whatever caused the structure to collapse the
others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi
was also once home to one of the most revered
religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald
Buddha Although the original now resides in
Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and
once again looks out over the city from a niche
on the east side of the structure
Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and
now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly
hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance
is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a
great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar
housed in a building at the base of the tree
Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although
one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few
alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed
Mae Hong Son
It is said that Mae Hong Son is the
most authentic and mountainous
province of Thailand For Thai Guru a
good reason to explore this province
side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai
province
Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of
Thailand The northern most part of this
province is at a distance of 924 km from
Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province
in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son
borders Myanmar On the south and east side it
borders Tak and Chiang Mai province
We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast
on the 108 road The scenery is woody and
mountainous so far so good And as we leave
the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek
for wildlife and beautiful landscapes
The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage
is that our average speed drops to less than
15 km hour No worries when you do trips
like these the clock stops and the only thing
on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning
landscapes that unfold before your eyes
The main road is well paved But as you might
understand we regularly go off road
This is the best way to come into contact with
locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo
While we are standing somewhere taking in the
beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a
falcon calling
A short walk through the forrest the sound
stops and we decide to sit down for some
water and well earned rest After a short while I
hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo
There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters
above us a white rumped falcon
Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras
it stays there and even when we start making
noises because we want to film it in flight it
takes itrsquos time
Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of
Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They
cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more
Of course they also have their own cattle And
walking through one of their small villages they
are very friendly and hospitable
It has to be said it is never smart to enter
a community or people with your camera
as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask
the people if they mind if you taking their
photograph or want to film their daily life
In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to
the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean
and offers a nice variety food on the terrace
with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city
where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists
Really nice to stroll down the walking street and
find food or a nice souvenir People are very
friendly as usual
From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae
Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an
average speed of 15 km hour
Halfway we jump out of the car into a river
Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to
keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn
but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around
without it
Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome
us and are gladly willing to allow us to make
photographs and film them
In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early
morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises
For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum
After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark
Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon
So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team
ChinatownBangkok
Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese
people in big cities around the world
Manhattan San Francisco Manilla
Paris and Boston have them and
more keep being officially recognised
in their role as historical and touristic
center every year Even places like
Dubai and Las Vegas have modern
day versions of this phenomenon
As soon as you pass under one of the famous
large red entrance arches you arrive in a
complete different world
A world that is paradise for photographers
A couple of the photographers in the Thai
Guru team decided to spend some time in the
Bangkok version of Chinatown
If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for
some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at
Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim
Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat
SLEEPY NANA dream destination
Relatively unknown and uncrowded
Nan has it all This gem of a province
hides an abundance of cultural and
natural attractions ancient temples
pristine forests rivers mountain
peaks but what strikes you most is
its omnipresent feel of an untroubled
authentic way of life
Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings
you this genuine feel in pictures and footage
For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of
Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant
nature and the nature of its people show
Thailand - as is often said before hordes of
tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas
it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan
managed to escape this proces but will it stay
that way Nan shares most of its border with
neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening
of the border and beyond towards China it is to
be expected that it will ultimately become an
important gateway for trade and tourism
Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town
and the countryside will enchant you and the natural
cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy
for at least a couple of days The town along the banks
of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base
to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night
life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous
temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue
influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The
great surroundings can best be explored by renting a
motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo
Much of the province is devoted to farming
Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still
being practised in areas of the province resulting
in a landscape where forests and fields alternate
Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside
of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature
peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich
natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the
province sees far fewer visitors than popular
neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You
can go white water rafting on the Wa River
along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim
National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay
overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes
Touring Nan
Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern
lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities
of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old
salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via
endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges
and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with
orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers
Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready
to be harvested broke through the green hills
giving a golden hue to the landscape
We encountered friendly villagers who worked
their way through the dry fields - meanwhile
singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to
supplement their meager incomes Despite their
hardship they showed us their heartwarming
hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes
with us
This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi
Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and
sparsely populated that we only passed two
cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos
difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand
nowadays
PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river
The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness
begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over
the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above
the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is
broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices
Then the carved image of a Naga becomes
visible above the water line followed by more
than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted
in red and gold colorshellip
During the year the remote provincial town
of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a
year for the annual spectacle of traditional
Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos
water artery The finals are held over two
days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos
banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite
team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in
Thailand yet relatively unknown
The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long
simple shelters where the massive dragon boats
are housed during the year Just once a year
they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos
most important sporting and social event The
event takes place right after the end of the
rainy season around early November when
water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at
their highest The colorful races are part of the
festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the
last day of Buddhist Lent in October
The narrow boats are made from massive
hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters
in length depending how many paddlers they
are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily
distinguishable by their use of bright colors and
mythical designs in the traditional local style
The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of
each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting
only the good ones to participate in their race
How to get there
Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is
connected by plane and by bus to the rest of
the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan
Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice
each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to
Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to
Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on
the service
Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan
(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8
hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)
The contestants of the races are classified into
three categories mdashlarge medium and small
boats Depending on their length each boat can
accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers
sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the
same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously
against the current to the frantic beating of a
drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern
The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying
their attempt to reach the finish line first and
the paddles churning up the river creates a
spectacular atmosphere
Son
g K
ran
in
Ch
ian
g M
ai
Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of
the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down
in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The
days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing
steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the
hot months of April and May The stifling mid-
day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out
unless necessary The buzz around town about
some festival called Song Kran is starting to
increase an underlying excitement rising
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
contact us
infothaigurumagazinecom
All videos in this magazine are
available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
Wat Chedi LuangIn contrast to Wat Pantao is the enormous
temple complex just next door that is Wat Chedi
Luang
The massive Lanna-style chedi was once the
largest structure in Chiang Mai Although it
was damaged either by an earthquake in the
16th century or cannon fire from the guns
of King Thaksin in a war with the Burmese
in 1775 the structure underwent UNESCO
funded reconstruction in the 1990s The steps
up the side of the chedi are guarded by naga
serpents and a group of five elephants (only the
one without a trunk or ears partially survived
whatever caused the structure to collapse the
others are reconstructions) The brick built chedi
was also once home to one of the most revered
religious objects in the kingdom ndash the Emerald
Buddha Although the original now resides in
Bangkok a replica was donated by the king and
once again looks out over the city from a niche
on the east side of the structure
Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and
now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly
hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance
is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a
great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar
housed in a building at the base of the tree
Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although
one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few
alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed
Mae Hong Son
It is said that Mae Hong Son is the
most authentic and mountainous
province of Thailand For Thai Guru a
good reason to explore this province
side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai
province
Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of
Thailand The northern most part of this
province is at a distance of 924 km from
Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province
in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son
borders Myanmar On the south and east side it
borders Tak and Chiang Mai province
We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast
on the 108 road The scenery is woody and
mountainous so far so good And as we leave
the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek
for wildlife and beautiful landscapes
The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage
is that our average speed drops to less than
15 km hour No worries when you do trips
like these the clock stops and the only thing
on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning
landscapes that unfold before your eyes
The main road is well paved But as you might
understand we regularly go off road
This is the best way to come into contact with
locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo
While we are standing somewhere taking in the
beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a
falcon calling
A short walk through the forrest the sound
stops and we decide to sit down for some
water and well earned rest After a short while I
hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo
There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters
above us a white rumped falcon
Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras
it stays there and even when we start making
noises because we want to film it in flight it
takes itrsquos time
Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of
Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They
cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more
Of course they also have their own cattle And
walking through one of their small villages they
are very friendly and hospitable
It has to be said it is never smart to enter
a community or people with your camera
as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask
the people if they mind if you taking their
photograph or want to film their daily life
In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to
the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean
and offers a nice variety food on the terrace
with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city
where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists
Really nice to stroll down the walking street and
find food or a nice souvenir People are very
friendly as usual
From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae
Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an
average speed of 15 km hour
Halfway we jump out of the car into a river
Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to
keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn
but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around
without it
Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome
us and are gladly willing to allow us to make
photographs and film them
In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early
morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises
For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum
After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark
Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon
So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team
ChinatownBangkok
Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese
people in big cities around the world
Manhattan San Francisco Manilla
Paris and Boston have them and
more keep being officially recognised
in their role as historical and touristic
center every year Even places like
Dubai and Las Vegas have modern
day versions of this phenomenon
As soon as you pass under one of the famous
large red entrance arches you arrive in a
complete different world
A world that is paradise for photographers
A couple of the photographers in the Thai
Guru team decided to spend some time in the
Bangkok version of Chinatown
If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for
some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at
Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim
Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat
SLEEPY NANA dream destination
Relatively unknown and uncrowded
Nan has it all This gem of a province
hides an abundance of cultural and
natural attractions ancient temples
pristine forests rivers mountain
peaks but what strikes you most is
its omnipresent feel of an untroubled
authentic way of life
Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings
you this genuine feel in pictures and footage
For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of
Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant
nature and the nature of its people show
Thailand - as is often said before hordes of
tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas
it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan
managed to escape this proces but will it stay
that way Nan shares most of its border with
neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening
of the border and beyond towards China it is to
be expected that it will ultimately become an
important gateway for trade and tourism
Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town
and the countryside will enchant you and the natural
cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy
for at least a couple of days The town along the banks
of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base
to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night
life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous
temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue
influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The
great surroundings can best be explored by renting a
motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo
Much of the province is devoted to farming
Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still
being practised in areas of the province resulting
in a landscape where forests and fields alternate
Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside
of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature
peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich
natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the
province sees far fewer visitors than popular
neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You
can go white water rafting on the Wa River
along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim
National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay
overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes
Touring Nan
Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern
lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities
of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old
salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via
endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges
and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with
orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers
Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready
to be harvested broke through the green hills
giving a golden hue to the landscape
We encountered friendly villagers who worked
their way through the dry fields - meanwhile
singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to
supplement their meager incomes Despite their
hardship they showed us their heartwarming
hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes
with us
This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi
Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and
sparsely populated that we only passed two
cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos
difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand
nowadays
PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river
The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness
begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over
the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above
the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is
broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices
Then the carved image of a Naga becomes
visible above the water line followed by more
than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted
in red and gold colorshellip
During the year the remote provincial town
of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a
year for the annual spectacle of traditional
Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos
water artery The finals are held over two
days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos
banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite
team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in
Thailand yet relatively unknown
The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long
simple shelters where the massive dragon boats
are housed during the year Just once a year
they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos
most important sporting and social event The
event takes place right after the end of the
rainy season around early November when
water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at
their highest The colorful races are part of the
festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the
last day of Buddhist Lent in October
The narrow boats are made from massive
hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters
in length depending how many paddlers they
are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily
distinguishable by their use of bright colors and
mythical designs in the traditional local style
The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of
each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting
only the good ones to participate in their race
How to get there
Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is
connected by plane and by bus to the rest of
the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan
Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice
each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to
Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to
Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on
the service
Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan
(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8
hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)
The contestants of the races are classified into
three categories mdashlarge medium and small
boats Depending on their length each boat can
accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers
sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the
same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously
against the current to the frantic beating of a
drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern
The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying
their attempt to reach the finish line first and
the paddles churning up the river creates a
spectacular atmosphere
Son
g K
ran
in
Ch
ian
g M
ai
Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of
the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down
in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The
days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing
steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the
hot months of April and May The stifling mid-
day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out
unless necessary The buzz around town about
some festival called Song Kran is starting to
increase an underlying excitement rising
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
contact us
infothaigurumagazinecom
All videos in this magazine are
available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
Since its inception at the end of the 14th century Wat Chedi Luang has been continuously expanded and
now includes several viharns the largest of which was added as recently as 1928 This impressive assembly
hall with its standing golden Buddha now dominates the entrance to the complex Also next to the entrance
is one of three great Dipterocarp trees It is said that if this tree were to topple Chiang Mai would suffer a
great misfortune The tree and Chiang Mai are however protected by lsquoThe Spirit of the Cityrsquo a sacred pillar
housed in a building at the base of the tree
Behind the chedi is a beautifully carved long pavilion housing a statue of a reclining Buddha Although
one of the most visited temples in Chiang Mai we decided to include Wat Chedi Luang in our list of a few
alternatives because it is truly impressive and definitely not to be missed
Mae Hong Son
It is said that Mae Hong Son is the
most authentic and mountainous
province of Thailand For Thai Guru a
good reason to explore this province
side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai
province
Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of
Thailand The northern most part of this
province is at a distance of 924 km from
Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province
in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son
borders Myanmar On the south and east side it
borders Tak and Chiang Mai province
We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast
on the 108 road The scenery is woody and
mountainous so far so good And as we leave
the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek
for wildlife and beautiful landscapes
The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage
is that our average speed drops to less than
15 km hour No worries when you do trips
like these the clock stops and the only thing
on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning
landscapes that unfold before your eyes
The main road is well paved But as you might
understand we regularly go off road
This is the best way to come into contact with
locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo
While we are standing somewhere taking in the
beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a
falcon calling
A short walk through the forrest the sound
stops and we decide to sit down for some
water and well earned rest After a short while I
hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo
There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters
above us a white rumped falcon
Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras
it stays there and even when we start making
noises because we want to film it in flight it
takes itrsquos time
Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of
Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They
cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more
Of course they also have their own cattle And
walking through one of their small villages they
are very friendly and hospitable
It has to be said it is never smart to enter
a community or people with your camera
as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask
the people if they mind if you taking their
photograph or want to film their daily life
In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to
the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean
and offers a nice variety food on the terrace
with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city
where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists
Really nice to stroll down the walking street and
find food or a nice souvenir People are very
friendly as usual
From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae
Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an
average speed of 15 km hour
Halfway we jump out of the car into a river
Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to
keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn
but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around
without it
Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome
us and are gladly willing to allow us to make
photographs and film them
In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early
morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises
For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum
After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark
Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon
So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team
ChinatownBangkok
Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese
people in big cities around the world
Manhattan San Francisco Manilla
Paris and Boston have them and
more keep being officially recognised
in their role as historical and touristic
center every year Even places like
Dubai and Las Vegas have modern
day versions of this phenomenon
As soon as you pass under one of the famous
large red entrance arches you arrive in a
complete different world
A world that is paradise for photographers
A couple of the photographers in the Thai
Guru team decided to spend some time in the
Bangkok version of Chinatown
If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for
some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at
Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim
Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat
SLEEPY NANA dream destination
Relatively unknown and uncrowded
Nan has it all This gem of a province
hides an abundance of cultural and
natural attractions ancient temples
pristine forests rivers mountain
peaks but what strikes you most is
its omnipresent feel of an untroubled
authentic way of life
Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings
you this genuine feel in pictures and footage
For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of
Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant
nature and the nature of its people show
Thailand - as is often said before hordes of
tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas
it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan
managed to escape this proces but will it stay
that way Nan shares most of its border with
neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening
of the border and beyond towards China it is to
be expected that it will ultimately become an
important gateway for trade and tourism
Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town
and the countryside will enchant you and the natural
cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy
for at least a couple of days The town along the banks
of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base
to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night
life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous
temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue
influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The
great surroundings can best be explored by renting a
motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo
Much of the province is devoted to farming
Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still
being practised in areas of the province resulting
in a landscape where forests and fields alternate
Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside
of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature
peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich
natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the
province sees far fewer visitors than popular
neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You
can go white water rafting on the Wa River
along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim
National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay
overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes
Touring Nan
Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern
lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities
of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old
salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via
endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges
and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with
orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers
Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready
to be harvested broke through the green hills
giving a golden hue to the landscape
We encountered friendly villagers who worked
their way through the dry fields - meanwhile
singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to
supplement their meager incomes Despite their
hardship they showed us their heartwarming
hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes
with us
This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi
Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and
sparsely populated that we only passed two
cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos
difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand
nowadays
PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river
The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness
begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over
the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above
the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is
broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices
Then the carved image of a Naga becomes
visible above the water line followed by more
than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted
in red and gold colorshellip
During the year the remote provincial town
of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a
year for the annual spectacle of traditional
Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos
water artery The finals are held over two
days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos
banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite
team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in
Thailand yet relatively unknown
The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long
simple shelters where the massive dragon boats
are housed during the year Just once a year
they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos
most important sporting and social event The
event takes place right after the end of the
rainy season around early November when
water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at
their highest The colorful races are part of the
festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the
last day of Buddhist Lent in October
The narrow boats are made from massive
hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters
in length depending how many paddlers they
are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily
distinguishable by their use of bright colors and
mythical designs in the traditional local style
The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of
each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting
only the good ones to participate in their race
How to get there
Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is
connected by plane and by bus to the rest of
the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan
Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice
each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to
Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to
Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on
the service
Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan
(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8
hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)
The contestants of the races are classified into
three categories mdashlarge medium and small
boats Depending on their length each boat can
accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers
sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the
same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously
against the current to the frantic beating of a
drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern
The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying
their attempt to reach the finish line first and
the paddles churning up the river creates a
spectacular atmosphere
Son
g K
ran
in
Ch
ian
g M
ai
Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of
the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down
in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The
days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing
steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the
hot months of April and May The stifling mid-
day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out
unless necessary The buzz around town about
some festival called Song Kran is starting to
increase an underlying excitement rising
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
contact us
infothaigurumagazinecom
All videos in this magazine are
available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
Mae Hong Son
It is said that Mae Hong Son is the
most authentic and mountainous
province of Thailand For Thai Guru a
good reason to explore this province
side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai
province
Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of
Thailand The northern most part of this
province is at a distance of 924 km from
Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province
in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son
borders Myanmar On the south and east side it
borders Tak and Chiang Mai province
We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast
on the 108 road The scenery is woody and
mountainous so far so good And as we leave
the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek
for wildlife and beautiful landscapes
The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage
is that our average speed drops to less than
15 km hour No worries when you do trips
like these the clock stops and the only thing
on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning
landscapes that unfold before your eyes
The main road is well paved But as you might
understand we regularly go off road
This is the best way to come into contact with
locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo
While we are standing somewhere taking in the
beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a
falcon calling
A short walk through the forrest the sound
stops and we decide to sit down for some
water and well earned rest After a short while I
hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo
There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters
above us a white rumped falcon
Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras
it stays there and even when we start making
noises because we want to film it in flight it
takes itrsquos time
Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of
Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They
cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more
Of course they also have their own cattle And
walking through one of their small villages they
are very friendly and hospitable
It has to be said it is never smart to enter
a community or people with your camera
as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask
the people if they mind if you taking their
photograph or want to film their daily life
In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to
the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean
and offers a nice variety food on the terrace
with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city
where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists
Really nice to stroll down the walking street and
find food or a nice souvenir People are very
friendly as usual
From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae
Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an
average speed of 15 km hour
Halfway we jump out of the car into a river
Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to
keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn
but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around
without it
Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome
us and are gladly willing to allow us to make
photographs and film them
In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early
morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises
For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum
After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark
Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon
So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team
ChinatownBangkok
Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese
people in big cities around the world
Manhattan San Francisco Manilla
Paris and Boston have them and
more keep being officially recognised
in their role as historical and touristic
center every year Even places like
Dubai and Las Vegas have modern
day versions of this phenomenon
As soon as you pass under one of the famous
large red entrance arches you arrive in a
complete different world
A world that is paradise for photographers
A couple of the photographers in the Thai
Guru team decided to spend some time in the
Bangkok version of Chinatown
If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for
some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at
Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim
Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat
SLEEPY NANA dream destination
Relatively unknown and uncrowded
Nan has it all This gem of a province
hides an abundance of cultural and
natural attractions ancient temples
pristine forests rivers mountain
peaks but what strikes you most is
its omnipresent feel of an untroubled
authentic way of life
Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings
you this genuine feel in pictures and footage
For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of
Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant
nature and the nature of its people show
Thailand - as is often said before hordes of
tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas
it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan
managed to escape this proces but will it stay
that way Nan shares most of its border with
neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening
of the border and beyond towards China it is to
be expected that it will ultimately become an
important gateway for trade and tourism
Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town
and the countryside will enchant you and the natural
cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy
for at least a couple of days The town along the banks
of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base
to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night
life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous
temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue
influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The
great surroundings can best be explored by renting a
motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo
Much of the province is devoted to farming
Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still
being practised in areas of the province resulting
in a landscape where forests and fields alternate
Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside
of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature
peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich
natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the
province sees far fewer visitors than popular
neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You
can go white water rafting on the Wa River
along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim
National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay
overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes
Touring Nan
Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern
lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities
of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old
salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via
endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges
and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with
orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers
Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready
to be harvested broke through the green hills
giving a golden hue to the landscape
We encountered friendly villagers who worked
their way through the dry fields - meanwhile
singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to
supplement their meager incomes Despite their
hardship they showed us their heartwarming
hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes
with us
This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi
Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and
sparsely populated that we only passed two
cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos
difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand
nowadays
PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river
The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness
begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over
the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above
the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is
broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices
Then the carved image of a Naga becomes
visible above the water line followed by more
than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted
in red and gold colorshellip
During the year the remote provincial town
of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a
year for the annual spectacle of traditional
Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos
water artery The finals are held over two
days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos
banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite
team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in
Thailand yet relatively unknown
The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long
simple shelters where the massive dragon boats
are housed during the year Just once a year
they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos
most important sporting and social event The
event takes place right after the end of the
rainy season around early November when
water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at
their highest The colorful races are part of the
festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the
last day of Buddhist Lent in October
The narrow boats are made from massive
hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters
in length depending how many paddlers they
are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily
distinguishable by their use of bright colors and
mythical designs in the traditional local style
The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of
each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting
only the good ones to participate in their race
How to get there
Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is
connected by plane and by bus to the rest of
the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan
Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice
each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to
Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to
Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on
the service
Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan
(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8
hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)
The contestants of the races are classified into
three categories mdashlarge medium and small
boats Depending on their length each boat can
accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers
sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the
same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously
against the current to the frantic beating of a
drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern
The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying
their attempt to reach the finish line first and
the paddles churning up the river creates a
spectacular atmosphere
Son
g K
ran
in
Ch
ian
g M
ai
Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of
the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down
in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The
days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing
steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the
hot months of April and May The stifling mid-
day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out
unless necessary The buzz around town about
some festival called Song Kran is starting to
increase an underlying excitement rising
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
contact us
infothaigurumagazinecom
All videos in this magazine are
available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
It is said that Mae Hong Son is the
most authentic and mountainous
province of Thailand For Thai Guru a
good reason to explore this province
side it borders Tak and Chiang Mai
province
Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of
Thailand The northern most part of this
province is at a distance of 924 km from
Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province
in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son
borders Myanmar On the south and east side it
borders Tak and Chiang Mai province
We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast
on the 108 road The scenery is woody and
mountainous so far so good And as we leave
the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek
for wildlife and beautiful landscapes
The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage
is that our average speed drops to less than
15 km hour No worries when you do trips
like these the clock stops and the only thing
on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning
landscapes that unfold before your eyes
The main road is well paved But as you might
understand we regularly go off road
This is the best way to come into contact with
locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo
While we are standing somewhere taking in the
beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a
falcon calling
A short walk through the forrest the sound
stops and we decide to sit down for some
water and well earned rest After a short while I
hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo
There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters
above us a white rumped falcon
Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras
it stays there and even when we start making
noises because we want to film it in flight it
takes itrsquos time
Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of
Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They
cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more
Of course they also have their own cattle And
walking through one of their small villages they
are very friendly and hospitable
It has to be said it is never smart to enter
a community or people with your camera
as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask
the people if they mind if you taking their
photograph or want to film their daily life
In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to
the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean
and offers a nice variety food on the terrace
with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city
where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists
Really nice to stroll down the walking street and
find food or a nice souvenir People are very
friendly as usual
From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae
Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an
average speed of 15 km hour
Halfway we jump out of the car into a river
Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to
keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn
but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around
without it
Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome
us and are gladly willing to allow us to make
photographs and film them
In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early
morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises
For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum
After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark
Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon
So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team
ChinatownBangkok
Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese
people in big cities around the world
Manhattan San Francisco Manilla
Paris and Boston have them and
more keep being officially recognised
in their role as historical and touristic
center every year Even places like
Dubai and Las Vegas have modern
day versions of this phenomenon
As soon as you pass under one of the famous
large red entrance arches you arrive in a
complete different world
A world that is paradise for photographers
A couple of the photographers in the Thai
Guru team decided to spend some time in the
Bangkok version of Chinatown
If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for
some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at
Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim
Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat
SLEEPY NANA dream destination
Relatively unknown and uncrowded
Nan has it all This gem of a province
hides an abundance of cultural and
natural attractions ancient temples
pristine forests rivers mountain
peaks but what strikes you most is
its omnipresent feel of an untroubled
authentic way of life
Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings
you this genuine feel in pictures and footage
For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of
Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant
nature and the nature of its people show
Thailand - as is often said before hordes of
tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas
it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan
managed to escape this proces but will it stay
that way Nan shares most of its border with
neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening
of the border and beyond towards China it is to
be expected that it will ultimately become an
important gateway for trade and tourism
Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town
and the countryside will enchant you and the natural
cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy
for at least a couple of days The town along the banks
of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base
to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night
life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous
temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue
influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The
great surroundings can best be explored by renting a
motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo
Much of the province is devoted to farming
Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still
being practised in areas of the province resulting
in a landscape where forests and fields alternate
Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside
of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature
peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich
natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the
province sees far fewer visitors than popular
neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You
can go white water rafting on the Wa River
along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim
National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay
overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes
Touring Nan
Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern
lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities
of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old
salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via
endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges
and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with
orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers
Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready
to be harvested broke through the green hills
giving a golden hue to the landscape
We encountered friendly villagers who worked
their way through the dry fields - meanwhile
singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to
supplement their meager incomes Despite their
hardship they showed us their heartwarming
hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes
with us
This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi
Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and
sparsely populated that we only passed two
cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos
difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand
nowadays
PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river
The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness
begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over
the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above
the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is
broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices
Then the carved image of a Naga becomes
visible above the water line followed by more
than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted
in red and gold colorshellip
During the year the remote provincial town
of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a
year for the annual spectacle of traditional
Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos
water artery The finals are held over two
days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos
banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite
team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in
Thailand yet relatively unknown
The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long
simple shelters where the massive dragon boats
are housed during the year Just once a year
they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos
most important sporting and social event The
event takes place right after the end of the
rainy season around early November when
water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at
their highest The colorful races are part of the
festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the
last day of Buddhist Lent in October
The narrow boats are made from massive
hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters
in length depending how many paddlers they
are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily
distinguishable by their use of bright colors and
mythical designs in the traditional local style
The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of
each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting
only the good ones to participate in their race
How to get there
Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is
connected by plane and by bus to the rest of
the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan
Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice
each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to
Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to
Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on
the service
Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan
(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8
hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)
The contestants of the races are classified into
three categories mdashlarge medium and small
boats Depending on their length each boat can
accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers
sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the
same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously
against the current to the frantic beating of a
drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern
The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying
their attempt to reach the finish line first and
the paddles churning up the river creates a
spectacular atmosphere
Son
g K
ran
in
Ch
ian
g M
ai
Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of
the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down
in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The
days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing
steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the
hot months of April and May The stifling mid-
day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out
unless necessary The buzz around town about
some festival called Song Kran is starting to
increase an underlying excitement rising
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
contact us
infothaigurumagazinecom
All videos in this magazine are
available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
Mae Hong Son is situated in the north of
Thailand The northern most part of this
province is at a distance of 924 km from
Bangkok and it is the seventh largest province
in Thailand In the north-west Mae Hong Son
borders Myanmar On the south and east side it
borders Tak and Chiang Mai province
We enter Mae Hong Son in the southeast
on the 108 road The scenery is woody and
mountainous so far so good And as we leave
the city behind us we turn on our ldquoradarrdquo to seek
for wildlife and beautiful landscapes
The scenery is really diverse the disadvantage
is that our average speed drops to less than
15 km hour No worries when you do trips
like these the clock stops and the only thing
on your mind should be to enjoy the stunning
landscapes that unfold before your eyes
The main road is well paved But as you might
understand we regularly go off road
This is the best way to come into contact with
locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo
While we are standing somewhere taking in the
beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a
falcon calling
A short walk through the forrest the sound
stops and we decide to sit down for some
water and well earned rest After a short while I
hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo
There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters
above us a white rumped falcon
Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras
it stays there and even when we start making
noises because we want to film it in flight it
takes itrsquos time
Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of
Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They
cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more
Of course they also have their own cattle And
walking through one of their small villages they
are very friendly and hospitable
It has to be said it is never smart to enter
a community or people with your camera
as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask
the people if they mind if you taking their
photograph or want to film their daily life
In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to
the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean
and offers a nice variety food on the terrace
with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city
where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists
Really nice to stroll down the walking street and
find food or a nice souvenir People are very
friendly as usual
From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae
Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an
average speed of 15 km hour
Halfway we jump out of the car into a river
Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to
keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn
but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around
without it
Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome
us and are gladly willing to allow us to make
photographs and film them
In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early
morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises
For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum
After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark
Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon
So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team
ChinatownBangkok
Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese
people in big cities around the world
Manhattan San Francisco Manilla
Paris and Boston have them and
more keep being officially recognised
in their role as historical and touristic
center every year Even places like
Dubai and Las Vegas have modern
day versions of this phenomenon
As soon as you pass under one of the famous
large red entrance arches you arrive in a
complete different world
A world that is paradise for photographers
A couple of the photographers in the Thai
Guru team decided to spend some time in the
Bangkok version of Chinatown
If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for
some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at
Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim
Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat
SLEEPY NANA dream destination
Relatively unknown and uncrowded
Nan has it all This gem of a province
hides an abundance of cultural and
natural attractions ancient temples
pristine forests rivers mountain
peaks but what strikes you most is
its omnipresent feel of an untroubled
authentic way of life
Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings
you this genuine feel in pictures and footage
For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of
Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant
nature and the nature of its people show
Thailand - as is often said before hordes of
tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas
it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan
managed to escape this proces but will it stay
that way Nan shares most of its border with
neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening
of the border and beyond towards China it is to
be expected that it will ultimately become an
important gateway for trade and tourism
Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town
and the countryside will enchant you and the natural
cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy
for at least a couple of days The town along the banks
of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base
to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night
life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous
temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue
influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The
great surroundings can best be explored by renting a
motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo
Much of the province is devoted to farming
Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still
being practised in areas of the province resulting
in a landscape where forests and fields alternate
Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside
of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature
peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich
natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the
province sees far fewer visitors than popular
neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You
can go white water rafting on the Wa River
along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim
National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay
overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes
Touring Nan
Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern
lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities
of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old
salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via
endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges
and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with
orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers
Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready
to be harvested broke through the green hills
giving a golden hue to the landscape
We encountered friendly villagers who worked
their way through the dry fields - meanwhile
singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to
supplement their meager incomes Despite their
hardship they showed us their heartwarming
hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes
with us
This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi
Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and
sparsely populated that we only passed two
cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos
difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand
nowadays
PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river
The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness
begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over
the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above
the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is
broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices
Then the carved image of a Naga becomes
visible above the water line followed by more
than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted
in red and gold colorshellip
During the year the remote provincial town
of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a
year for the annual spectacle of traditional
Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos
water artery The finals are held over two
days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos
banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite
team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in
Thailand yet relatively unknown
The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long
simple shelters where the massive dragon boats
are housed during the year Just once a year
they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos
most important sporting and social event The
event takes place right after the end of the
rainy season around early November when
water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at
their highest The colorful races are part of the
festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the
last day of Buddhist Lent in October
The narrow boats are made from massive
hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters
in length depending how many paddlers they
are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily
distinguishable by their use of bright colors and
mythical designs in the traditional local style
The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of
each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting
only the good ones to participate in their race
How to get there
Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is
connected by plane and by bus to the rest of
the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan
Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice
each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to
Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to
Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on
the service
Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan
(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8
hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)
The contestants of the races are classified into
three categories mdashlarge medium and small
boats Depending on their length each boat can
accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers
sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the
same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously
against the current to the frantic beating of a
drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern
The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying
their attempt to reach the finish line first and
the paddles churning up the river creates a
spectacular atmosphere
Son
g K
ran
in
Ch
ian
g M
ai
Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of
the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down
in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The
days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing
steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the
hot months of April and May The stifling mid-
day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out
unless necessary The buzz around town about
some festival called Song Kran is starting to
increase an underlying excitement rising
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
contact us
infothaigurumagazinecom
All videos in this magazine are
available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
The main road is well paved But as you might
understand we regularly go off road
This is the best way to come into contact with
locals find wildlife and see ldquothe real Thailandrdquo
While we are standing somewhere taking in the
beautiful landscapes we hear the sound of a
falcon calling
A short walk through the forrest the sound
stops and we decide to sit down for some
water and well earned rest After a short while I
hear a whisper ldquolook up thererdquo
There it is sitting on a branch just 5 meters
above us a white rumped falcon
Not disturbed by the sounds of the cameras
it stays there and even when we start making
noises because we want to film it in flight it
takes itrsquos time
Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of
Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They
cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more
Of course they also have their own cattle And
walking through one of their small villages they
are very friendly and hospitable
It has to be said it is never smart to enter
a community or people with your camera
as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask
the people if they mind if you taking their
photograph or want to film their daily life
In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to
the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean
and offers a nice variety food on the terrace
with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city
where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists
Really nice to stroll down the walking street and
find food or a nice souvenir People are very
friendly as usual
From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae
Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an
average speed of 15 km hour
Halfway we jump out of the car into a river
Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to
keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn
but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around
without it
Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome
us and are gladly willing to allow us to make
photographs and film them
In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early
morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises
For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum
After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark
Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon
So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team
ChinatownBangkok
Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese
people in big cities around the world
Manhattan San Francisco Manilla
Paris and Boston have them and
more keep being officially recognised
in their role as historical and touristic
center every year Even places like
Dubai and Las Vegas have modern
day versions of this phenomenon
As soon as you pass under one of the famous
large red entrance arches you arrive in a
complete different world
A world that is paradise for photographers
A couple of the photographers in the Thai
Guru team decided to spend some time in the
Bangkok version of Chinatown
If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for
some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at
Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim
Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat
SLEEPY NANA dream destination
Relatively unknown and uncrowded
Nan has it all This gem of a province
hides an abundance of cultural and
natural attractions ancient temples
pristine forests rivers mountain
peaks but what strikes you most is
its omnipresent feel of an untroubled
authentic way of life
Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings
you this genuine feel in pictures and footage
For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of
Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant
nature and the nature of its people show
Thailand - as is often said before hordes of
tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas
it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan
managed to escape this proces but will it stay
that way Nan shares most of its border with
neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening
of the border and beyond towards China it is to
be expected that it will ultimately become an
important gateway for trade and tourism
Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town
and the countryside will enchant you and the natural
cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy
for at least a couple of days The town along the banks
of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base
to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night
life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous
temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue
influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The
great surroundings can best be explored by renting a
motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo
Much of the province is devoted to farming
Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still
being practised in areas of the province resulting
in a landscape where forests and fields alternate
Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside
of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature
peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich
natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the
province sees far fewer visitors than popular
neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You
can go white water rafting on the Wa River
along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim
National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay
overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes
Touring Nan
Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern
lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities
of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old
salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via
endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges
and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with
orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers
Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready
to be harvested broke through the green hills
giving a golden hue to the landscape
We encountered friendly villagers who worked
their way through the dry fields - meanwhile
singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to
supplement their meager incomes Despite their
hardship they showed us their heartwarming
hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes
with us
This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi
Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and
sparsely populated that we only passed two
cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos
difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand
nowadays
PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river
The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness
begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over
the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above
the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is
broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices
Then the carved image of a Naga becomes
visible above the water line followed by more
than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted
in red and gold colorshellip
During the year the remote provincial town
of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a
year for the annual spectacle of traditional
Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos
water artery The finals are held over two
days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos
banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite
team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in
Thailand yet relatively unknown
The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long
simple shelters where the massive dragon boats
are housed during the year Just once a year
they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos
most important sporting and social event The
event takes place right after the end of the
rainy season around early November when
water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at
their highest The colorful races are part of the
festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the
last day of Buddhist Lent in October
The narrow boats are made from massive
hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters
in length depending how many paddlers they
are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily
distinguishable by their use of bright colors and
mythical designs in the traditional local style
The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of
each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting
only the good ones to participate in their race
How to get there
Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is
connected by plane and by bus to the rest of
the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan
Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice
each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to
Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to
Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on
the service
Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan
(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8
hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)
The contestants of the races are classified into
three categories mdashlarge medium and small
boats Depending on their length each boat can
accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers
sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the
same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously
against the current to the frantic beating of a
drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern
The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying
their attempt to reach the finish line first and
the paddles churning up the river creates a
spectacular atmosphere
Son
g K
ran
in
Ch
ian
g M
ai
Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of
the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down
in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The
days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing
steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the
hot months of April and May The stifling mid-
day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out
unless necessary The buzz around town about
some festival called Song Kran is starting to
increase an underlying excitement rising
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
contact us
infothaigurumagazinecom
All videos in this magazine are
available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
Mae Hong Son is authentic Thailand Lotrsquos of
Hill Tribes live and work in the mountains They
cultivate corn tomatoes rice and much more
Of course they also have their own cattle And
walking through one of their small villages they
are very friendly and hospitable
It has to be said it is never smart to enter
a community or people with your camera
as a ldquoweaponrdquo For your own good just ask
the people if they mind if you taking their
photograph or want to film their daily life
In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to
the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean
and offers a nice variety food on the terrace
with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city
where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists
Really nice to stroll down the walking street and
find food or a nice souvenir People are very
friendly as usual
From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae
Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an
average speed of 15 km hour
Halfway we jump out of the car into a river
Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to
keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn
but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around
without it
Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome
us and are gladly willing to allow us to make
photographs and film them
In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early
morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises
For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum
After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark
Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon
So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team
ChinatownBangkok
Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese
people in big cities around the world
Manhattan San Francisco Manilla
Paris and Boston have them and
more keep being officially recognised
in their role as historical and touristic
center every year Even places like
Dubai and Las Vegas have modern
day versions of this phenomenon
As soon as you pass under one of the famous
large red entrance arches you arrive in a
complete different world
A world that is paradise for photographers
A couple of the photographers in the Thai
Guru team decided to spend some time in the
Bangkok version of Chinatown
If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for
some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at
Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim
Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat
SLEEPY NANA dream destination
Relatively unknown and uncrowded
Nan has it all This gem of a province
hides an abundance of cultural and
natural attractions ancient temples
pristine forests rivers mountain
peaks but what strikes you most is
its omnipresent feel of an untroubled
authentic way of life
Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings
you this genuine feel in pictures and footage
For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of
Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant
nature and the nature of its people show
Thailand - as is often said before hordes of
tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas
it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan
managed to escape this proces but will it stay
that way Nan shares most of its border with
neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening
of the border and beyond towards China it is to
be expected that it will ultimately become an
important gateway for trade and tourism
Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town
and the countryside will enchant you and the natural
cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy
for at least a couple of days The town along the banks
of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base
to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night
life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous
temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue
influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The
great surroundings can best be explored by renting a
motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo
Much of the province is devoted to farming
Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still
being practised in areas of the province resulting
in a landscape where forests and fields alternate
Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside
of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature
peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich
natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the
province sees far fewer visitors than popular
neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You
can go white water rafting on the Wa River
along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim
National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay
overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes
Touring Nan
Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern
lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities
of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old
salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via
endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges
and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with
orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers
Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready
to be harvested broke through the green hills
giving a golden hue to the landscape
We encountered friendly villagers who worked
their way through the dry fields - meanwhile
singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to
supplement their meager incomes Despite their
hardship they showed us their heartwarming
hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes
with us
This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi
Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and
sparsely populated that we only passed two
cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos
difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand
nowadays
PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river
The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness
begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over
the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above
the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is
broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices
Then the carved image of a Naga becomes
visible above the water line followed by more
than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted
in red and gold colorshellip
During the year the remote provincial town
of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a
year for the annual spectacle of traditional
Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos
water artery The finals are held over two
days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos
banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite
team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in
Thailand yet relatively unknown
The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long
simple shelters where the massive dragon boats
are housed during the year Just once a year
they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos
most important sporting and social event The
event takes place right after the end of the
rainy season around early November when
water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at
their highest The colorful races are part of the
festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the
last day of Buddhist Lent in October
The narrow boats are made from massive
hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters
in length depending how many paddlers they
are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily
distinguishable by their use of bright colors and
mythical designs in the traditional local style
The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of
each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting
only the good ones to participate in their race
How to get there
Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is
connected by plane and by bus to the rest of
the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan
Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice
each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to
Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to
Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on
the service
Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan
(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8
hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)
The contestants of the races are classified into
three categories mdashlarge medium and small
boats Depending on their length each boat can
accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers
sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the
same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously
against the current to the frantic beating of a
drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern
The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying
their attempt to reach the finish line first and
the paddles churning up the river creates a
spectacular atmosphere
Son
g K
ran
in
Ch
ian
g M
ai
Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of
the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down
in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The
days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing
steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the
hot months of April and May The stifling mid-
day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out
unless necessary The buzz around town about
some festival called Song Kran is starting to
increase an underlying excitement rising
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
contact us
infothaigurumagazinecom
All videos in this magazine are
available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
In Mae Sariang we stay in River Hotel next to
the Sariang River This (budget) hotel is clean
and offers a nice variety food on the terrace
with river view Mae Sariang it self is a small city
where you wonrsquot find a lot of tourists
Really nice to stroll down the walking street and
find food or a nice souvenir People are very
friendly as usual
From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae
Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an
average speed of 15 km hour
Halfway we jump out of the car into a river
Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to
keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn
but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around
without it
Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome
us and are gladly willing to allow us to make
photographs and film them
In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early
morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises
For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum
After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark
Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon
So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team
ChinatownBangkok
Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese
people in big cities around the world
Manhattan San Francisco Manilla
Paris and Boston have them and
more keep being officially recognised
in their role as historical and touristic
center every year Even places like
Dubai and Las Vegas have modern
day versions of this phenomenon
As soon as you pass under one of the famous
large red entrance arches you arrive in a
complete different world
A world that is paradise for photographers
A couple of the photographers in the Thai
Guru team decided to spend some time in the
Bangkok version of Chinatown
If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for
some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at
Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim
Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat
SLEEPY NANA dream destination
Relatively unknown and uncrowded
Nan has it all This gem of a province
hides an abundance of cultural and
natural attractions ancient temples
pristine forests rivers mountain
peaks but what strikes you most is
its omnipresent feel of an untroubled
authentic way of life
Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings
you this genuine feel in pictures and footage
For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of
Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant
nature and the nature of its people show
Thailand - as is often said before hordes of
tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas
it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan
managed to escape this proces but will it stay
that way Nan shares most of its border with
neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening
of the border and beyond towards China it is to
be expected that it will ultimately become an
important gateway for trade and tourism
Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town
and the countryside will enchant you and the natural
cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy
for at least a couple of days The town along the banks
of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base
to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night
life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous
temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue
influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The
great surroundings can best be explored by renting a
motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo
Much of the province is devoted to farming
Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still
being practised in areas of the province resulting
in a landscape where forests and fields alternate
Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside
of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature
peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich
natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the
province sees far fewer visitors than popular
neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You
can go white water rafting on the Wa River
along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim
National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay
overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes
Touring Nan
Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern
lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities
of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old
salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via
endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges
and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with
orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers
Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready
to be harvested broke through the green hills
giving a golden hue to the landscape
We encountered friendly villagers who worked
their way through the dry fields - meanwhile
singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to
supplement their meager incomes Despite their
hardship they showed us their heartwarming
hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes
with us
This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi
Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and
sparsely populated that we only passed two
cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos
difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand
nowadays
PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river
The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness
begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over
the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above
the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is
broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices
Then the carved image of a Naga becomes
visible above the water line followed by more
than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted
in red and gold colorshellip
During the year the remote provincial town
of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a
year for the annual spectacle of traditional
Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos
water artery The finals are held over two
days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos
banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite
team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in
Thailand yet relatively unknown
The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long
simple shelters where the massive dragon boats
are housed during the year Just once a year
they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos
most important sporting and social event The
event takes place right after the end of the
rainy season around early November when
water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at
their highest The colorful races are part of the
festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the
last day of Buddhist Lent in October
The narrow boats are made from massive
hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters
in length depending how many paddlers they
are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily
distinguishable by their use of bright colors and
mythical designs in the traditional local style
The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of
each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting
only the good ones to participate in their race
How to get there
Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is
connected by plane and by bus to the rest of
the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan
Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice
each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to
Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to
Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on
the service
Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan
(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8
hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)
The contestants of the races are classified into
three categories mdashlarge medium and small
boats Depending on their length each boat can
accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers
sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the
same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously
against the current to the frantic beating of a
drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern
The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying
their attempt to reach the finish line first and
the paddles churning up the river creates a
spectacular atmosphere
Son
g K
ran
in
Ch
ian
g M
ai
Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of
the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down
in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The
days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing
steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the
hot months of April and May The stifling mid-
day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out
unless necessary The buzz around town about
some festival called Song Kran is starting to
increase an underlying excitement rising
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
contact us
infothaigurumagazinecom
All videos in this magazine are
available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
From Mae Sariang in the direction of Mae
Hong Son Again we are able to make it with an
average speed of 15 km hour
Halfway we jump out of the car into a river
Wow that feels good refreshing Remember to
keep a T-shirt on not only because of sunburn
but in Thailand itrsquos not-done to walk around
without it
Beautiful views here too and the locals welcome
us and are gladly willing to allow us to make
photographs and film them
In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early
morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises
For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum
After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark
Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon
So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team
ChinatownBangkok
Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese
people in big cities around the world
Manhattan San Francisco Manilla
Paris and Boston have them and
more keep being officially recognised
in their role as historical and touristic
center every year Even places like
Dubai and Las Vegas have modern
day versions of this phenomenon
As soon as you pass under one of the famous
large red entrance arches you arrive in a
complete different world
A world that is paradise for photographers
A couple of the photographers in the Thai
Guru team decided to spend some time in the
Bangkok version of Chinatown
If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for
some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at
Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim
Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat
SLEEPY NANA dream destination
Relatively unknown and uncrowded
Nan has it all This gem of a province
hides an abundance of cultural and
natural attractions ancient temples
pristine forests rivers mountain
peaks but what strikes you most is
its omnipresent feel of an untroubled
authentic way of life
Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings
you this genuine feel in pictures and footage
For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of
Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant
nature and the nature of its people show
Thailand - as is often said before hordes of
tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas
it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan
managed to escape this proces but will it stay
that way Nan shares most of its border with
neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening
of the border and beyond towards China it is to
be expected that it will ultimately become an
important gateway for trade and tourism
Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town
and the countryside will enchant you and the natural
cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy
for at least a couple of days The town along the banks
of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base
to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night
life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous
temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue
influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The
great surroundings can best be explored by renting a
motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo
Much of the province is devoted to farming
Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still
being practised in areas of the province resulting
in a landscape where forests and fields alternate
Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside
of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature
peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich
natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the
province sees far fewer visitors than popular
neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You
can go white water rafting on the Wa River
along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim
National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay
overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes
Touring Nan
Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern
lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities
of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old
salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via
endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges
and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with
orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers
Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready
to be harvested broke through the green hills
giving a golden hue to the landscape
We encountered friendly villagers who worked
their way through the dry fields - meanwhile
singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to
supplement their meager incomes Despite their
hardship they showed us their heartwarming
hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes
with us
This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi
Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and
sparsely populated that we only passed two
cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos
difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand
nowadays
PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river
The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness
begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over
the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above
the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is
broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices
Then the carved image of a Naga becomes
visible above the water line followed by more
than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted
in red and gold colorshellip
During the year the remote provincial town
of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a
year for the annual spectacle of traditional
Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos
water artery The finals are held over two
days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos
banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite
team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in
Thailand yet relatively unknown
The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long
simple shelters where the massive dragon boats
are housed during the year Just once a year
they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos
most important sporting and social event The
event takes place right after the end of the
rainy season around early November when
water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at
their highest The colorful races are part of the
festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the
last day of Buddhist Lent in October
The narrow boats are made from massive
hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters
in length depending how many paddlers they
are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily
distinguishable by their use of bright colors and
mythical designs in the traditional local style
The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of
each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting
only the good ones to participate in their race
How to get there
Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is
connected by plane and by bus to the rest of
the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan
Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice
each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to
Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to
Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on
the service
Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan
(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8
hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)
The contestants of the races are classified into
three categories mdashlarge medium and small
boats Depending on their length each boat can
accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers
sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the
same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously
against the current to the frantic beating of a
drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern
The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying
their attempt to reach the finish line first and
the paddles churning up the river creates a
spectacular atmosphere
Son
g K
ran
in
Ch
ian
g M
ai
Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of
the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down
in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The
days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing
steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the
hot months of April and May The stifling mid-
day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out
unless necessary The buzz around town about
some festival called Song Kran is starting to
increase an underlying excitement rising
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
contact us
infothaigurumagazinecom
All videos in this magazine are
available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
In Khun Yuam we find a guestohuse with an awesome view of the valley Sitting on the balcony you feel one with nature and the cool air in the evenings and early
morning invites you to enjoy some great sunsets and sunrises
For those who are interested in the history of this area Khun Yuam offers the Thai-Japan Friendship Museum
After our visit we find a different route back to Chiang Mai Impressive scenery also here and we had to do our best to leave this province before dark
Guess whathellipwe did not succeed We arrived in Chiang Mai long after dark and decided to go back soon
So if you are in the north of Thailand and you decide to visit Mae Hong Son province there is a good chance yoursquoll meet the Thai Guru team
ChinatownBangkok
Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese
people in big cities around the world
Manhattan San Francisco Manilla
Paris and Boston have them and
more keep being officially recognised
in their role as historical and touristic
center every year Even places like
Dubai and Las Vegas have modern
day versions of this phenomenon
As soon as you pass under one of the famous
large red entrance arches you arrive in a
complete different world
A world that is paradise for photographers
A couple of the photographers in the Thai
Guru team decided to spend some time in the
Bangkok version of Chinatown
If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for
some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at
Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim
Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat
SLEEPY NANA dream destination
Relatively unknown and uncrowded
Nan has it all This gem of a province
hides an abundance of cultural and
natural attractions ancient temples
pristine forests rivers mountain
peaks but what strikes you most is
its omnipresent feel of an untroubled
authentic way of life
Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings
you this genuine feel in pictures and footage
For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of
Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant
nature and the nature of its people show
Thailand - as is often said before hordes of
tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas
it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan
managed to escape this proces but will it stay
that way Nan shares most of its border with
neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening
of the border and beyond towards China it is to
be expected that it will ultimately become an
important gateway for trade and tourism
Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town
and the countryside will enchant you and the natural
cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy
for at least a couple of days The town along the banks
of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base
to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night
life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous
temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue
influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The
great surroundings can best be explored by renting a
motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo
Much of the province is devoted to farming
Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still
being practised in areas of the province resulting
in a landscape where forests and fields alternate
Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside
of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature
peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich
natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the
province sees far fewer visitors than popular
neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You
can go white water rafting on the Wa River
along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim
National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay
overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes
Touring Nan
Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern
lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities
of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old
salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via
endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges
and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with
orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers
Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready
to be harvested broke through the green hills
giving a golden hue to the landscape
We encountered friendly villagers who worked
their way through the dry fields - meanwhile
singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to
supplement their meager incomes Despite their
hardship they showed us their heartwarming
hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes
with us
This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi
Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and
sparsely populated that we only passed two
cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos
difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand
nowadays
PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river
The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness
begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over
the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above
the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is
broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices
Then the carved image of a Naga becomes
visible above the water line followed by more
than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted
in red and gold colorshellip
During the year the remote provincial town
of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a
year for the annual spectacle of traditional
Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos
water artery The finals are held over two
days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos
banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite
team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in
Thailand yet relatively unknown
The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long
simple shelters where the massive dragon boats
are housed during the year Just once a year
they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos
most important sporting and social event The
event takes place right after the end of the
rainy season around early November when
water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at
their highest The colorful races are part of the
festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the
last day of Buddhist Lent in October
The narrow boats are made from massive
hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters
in length depending how many paddlers they
are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily
distinguishable by their use of bright colors and
mythical designs in the traditional local style
The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of
each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting
only the good ones to participate in their race
How to get there
Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is
connected by plane and by bus to the rest of
the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan
Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice
each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to
Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to
Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on
the service
Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan
(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8
hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)
The contestants of the races are classified into
three categories mdashlarge medium and small
boats Depending on their length each boat can
accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers
sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the
same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously
against the current to the frantic beating of a
drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern
The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying
their attempt to reach the finish line first and
the paddles churning up the river creates a
spectacular atmosphere
Son
g K
ran
in
Ch
ian
g M
ai
Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of
the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down
in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The
days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing
steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the
hot months of April and May The stifling mid-
day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out
unless necessary The buzz around town about
some festival called Song Kran is starting to
increase an underlying excitement rising
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
contact us
infothaigurumagazinecom
All videos in this magazine are
available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
ChinatownBangkok
Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese
people in big cities around the world
Manhattan San Francisco Manilla
Paris and Boston have them and
more keep being officially recognised
in their role as historical and touristic
center every year Even places like
Dubai and Las Vegas have modern
day versions of this phenomenon
As soon as you pass under one of the famous
large red entrance arches you arrive in a
complete different world
A world that is paradise for photographers
A couple of the photographers in the Thai
Guru team decided to spend some time in the
Bangkok version of Chinatown
If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for
some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at
Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim
Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat
SLEEPY NANA dream destination
Relatively unknown and uncrowded
Nan has it all This gem of a province
hides an abundance of cultural and
natural attractions ancient temples
pristine forests rivers mountain
peaks but what strikes you most is
its omnipresent feel of an untroubled
authentic way of life
Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings
you this genuine feel in pictures and footage
For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of
Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant
nature and the nature of its people show
Thailand - as is often said before hordes of
tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas
it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan
managed to escape this proces but will it stay
that way Nan shares most of its border with
neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening
of the border and beyond towards China it is to
be expected that it will ultimately become an
important gateway for trade and tourism
Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town
and the countryside will enchant you and the natural
cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy
for at least a couple of days The town along the banks
of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base
to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night
life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous
temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue
influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The
great surroundings can best be explored by renting a
motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo
Much of the province is devoted to farming
Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still
being practised in areas of the province resulting
in a landscape where forests and fields alternate
Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside
of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature
peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich
natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the
province sees far fewer visitors than popular
neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You
can go white water rafting on the Wa River
along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim
National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay
overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes
Touring Nan
Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern
lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities
of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old
salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via
endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges
and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with
orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers
Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready
to be harvested broke through the green hills
giving a golden hue to the landscape
We encountered friendly villagers who worked
their way through the dry fields - meanwhile
singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to
supplement their meager incomes Despite their
hardship they showed us their heartwarming
hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes
with us
This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi
Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and
sparsely populated that we only passed two
cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos
difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand
nowadays
PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river
The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness
begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over
the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above
the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is
broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices
Then the carved image of a Naga becomes
visible above the water line followed by more
than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted
in red and gold colorshellip
During the year the remote provincial town
of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a
year for the annual spectacle of traditional
Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos
water artery The finals are held over two
days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos
banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite
team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in
Thailand yet relatively unknown
The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long
simple shelters where the massive dragon boats
are housed during the year Just once a year
they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos
most important sporting and social event The
event takes place right after the end of the
rainy season around early November when
water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at
their highest The colorful races are part of the
festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the
last day of Buddhist Lent in October
The narrow boats are made from massive
hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters
in length depending how many paddlers they
are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily
distinguishable by their use of bright colors and
mythical designs in the traditional local style
The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of
each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting
only the good ones to participate in their race
How to get there
Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is
connected by plane and by bus to the rest of
the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan
Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice
each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to
Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to
Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on
the service
Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan
(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8
hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)
The contestants of the races are classified into
three categories mdashlarge medium and small
boats Depending on their length each boat can
accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers
sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the
same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously
against the current to the frantic beating of a
drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern
The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying
their attempt to reach the finish line first and
the paddles churning up the river creates a
spectacular atmosphere
Son
g K
ran
in
Ch
ian
g M
ai
Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of
the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down
in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The
days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing
steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the
hot months of April and May The stifling mid-
day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out
unless necessary The buzz around town about
some festival called Song Kran is starting to
increase an underlying excitement rising
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
contact us
infothaigurumagazinecom
All videos in this magazine are
available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
Yoursquoll find these enclaves of Chinese
people in big cities around the world
Manhattan San Francisco Manilla
Paris and Boston have them and
more keep being officially recognised
in their role as historical and touristic
center every year Even places like
Dubai and Las Vegas have modern
day versions of this phenomenon
As soon as you pass under one of the famous
large red entrance arches you arrive in a
complete different world
A world that is paradise for photographers
A couple of the photographers in the Thai
Guru team decided to spend some time in the
Bangkok version of Chinatown
If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for
some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at
Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim
Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat
SLEEPY NANA dream destination
Relatively unknown and uncrowded
Nan has it all This gem of a province
hides an abundance of cultural and
natural attractions ancient temples
pristine forests rivers mountain
peaks but what strikes you most is
its omnipresent feel of an untroubled
authentic way of life
Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings
you this genuine feel in pictures and footage
For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of
Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant
nature and the nature of its people show
Thailand - as is often said before hordes of
tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas
it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan
managed to escape this proces but will it stay
that way Nan shares most of its border with
neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening
of the border and beyond towards China it is to
be expected that it will ultimately become an
important gateway for trade and tourism
Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town
and the countryside will enchant you and the natural
cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy
for at least a couple of days The town along the banks
of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base
to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night
life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous
temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue
influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The
great surroundings can best be explored by renting a
motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo
Much of the province is devoted to farming
Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still
being practised in areas of the province resulting
in a landscape where forests and fields alternate
Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside
of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature
peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich
natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the
province sees far fewer visitors than popular
neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You
can go white water rafting on the Wa River
along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim
National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay
overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes
Touring Nan
Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern
lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities
of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old
salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via
endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges
and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with
orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers
Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready
to be harvested broke through the green hills
giving a golden hue to the landscape
We encountered friendly villagers who worked
their way through the dry fields - meanwhile
singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to
supplement their meager incomes Despite their
hardship they showed us their heartwarming
hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes
with us
This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi
Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and
sparsely populated that we only passed two
cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos
difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand
nowadays
PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river
The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness
begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over
the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above
the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is
broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices
Then the carved image of a Naga becomes
visible above the water line followed by more
than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted
in red and gold colorshellip
During the year the remote provincial town
of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a
year for the annual spectacle of traditional
Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos
water artery The finals are held over two
days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos
banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite
team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in
Thailand yet relatively unknown
The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long
simple shelters where the massive dragon boats
are housed during the year Just once a year
they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos
most important sporting and social event The
event takes place right after the end of the
rainy season around early November when
water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at
their highest The colorful races are part of the
festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the
last day of Buddhist Lent in October
The narrow boats are made from massive
hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters
in length depending how many paddlers they
are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily
distinguishable by their use of bright colors and
mythical designs in the traditional local style
The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of
each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting
only the good ones to participate in their race
How to get there
Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is
connected by plane and by bus to the rest of
the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan
Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice
each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to
Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to
Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on
the service
Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan
(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8
hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)
The contestants of the races are classified into
three categories mdashlarge medium and small
boats Depending on their length each boat can
accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers
sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the
same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously
against the current to the frantic beating of a
drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern
The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying
their attempt to reach the finish line first and
the paddles churning up the river creates a
spectacular atmosphere
Son
g K
ran
in
Ch
ian
g M
ai
Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of
the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down
in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The
days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing
steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the
hot months of April and May The stifling mid-
day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out
unless necessary The buzz around town about
some festival called Song Kran is starting to
increase an underlying excitement rising
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
contact us
infothaigurumagazinecom
All videos in this magazine are
available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
As soon as you pass under one of the famous
large red entrance arches you arrive in a
complete different world
A world that is paradise for photographers
A couple of the photographers in the Thai
Guru team decided to spend some time in the
Bangkok version of Chinatown
If you decide to visit donrsquot forget to stop for
some of the greatest Dim Sum ever made at
Hong Kong Dim Sum You find Hong Kong Dim
Sum at Itsara Nuphap a small soi of Yaowarat
SLEEPY NANA dream destination
Relatively unknown and uncrowded
Nan has it all This gem of a province
hides an abundance of cultural and
natural attractions ancient temples
pristine forests rivers mountain
peaks but what strikes you most is
its omnipresent feel of an untroubled
authentic way of life
Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings
you this genuine feel in pictures and footage
For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of
Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant
nature and the nature of its people show
Thailand - as is often said before hordes of
tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas
it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan
managed to escape this proces but will it stay
that way Nan shares most of its border with
neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening
of the border and beyond towards China it is to
be expected that it will ultimately become an
important gateway for trade and tourism
Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town
and the countryside will enchant you and the natural
cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy
for at least a couple of days The town along the banks
of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base
to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night
life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous
temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue
influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The
great surroundings can best be explored by renting a
motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo
Much of the province is devoted to farming
Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still
being practised in areas of the province resulting
in a landscape where forests and fields alternate
Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside
of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature
peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich
natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the
province sees far fewer visitors than popular
neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You
can go white water rafting on the Wa River
along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim
National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay
overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes
Touring Nan
Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern
lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities
of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old
salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via
endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges
and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with
orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers
Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready
to be harvested broke through the green hills
giving a golden hue to the landscape
We encountered friendly villagers who worked
their way through the dry fields - meanwhile
singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to
supplement their meager incomes Despite their
hardship they showed us their heartwarming
hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes
with us
This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi
Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and
sparsely populated that we only passed two
cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos
difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand
nowadays
PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river
The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness
begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over
the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above
the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is
broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices
Then the carved image of a Naga becomes
visible above the water line followed by more
than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted
in red and gold colorshellip
During the year the remote provincial town
of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a
year for the annual spectacle of traditional
Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos
water artery The finals are held over two
days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos
banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite
team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in
Thailand yet relatively unknown
The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long
simple shelters where the massive dragon boats
are housed during the year Just once a year
they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos
most important sporting and social event The
event takes place right after the end of the
rainy season around early November when
water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at
their highest The colorful races are part of the
festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the
last day of Buddhist Lent in October
The narrow boats are made from massive
hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters
in length depending how many paddlers they
are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily
distinguishable by their use of bright colors and
mythical designs in the traditional local style
The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of
each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting
only the good ones to participate in their race
How to get there
Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is
connected by plane and by bus to the rest of
the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan
Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice
each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to
Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to
Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on
the service
Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan
(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8
hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)
The contestants of the races are classified into
three categories mdashlarge medium and small
boats Depending on their length each boat can
accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers
sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the
same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously
against the current to the frantic beating of a
drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern
The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying
their attempt to reach the finish line first and
the paddles churning up the river creates a
spectacular atmosphere
Son
g K
ran
in
Ch
ian
g M
ai
Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of
the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down
in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The
days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing
steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the
hot months of April and May The stifling mid-
day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out
unless necessary The buzz around town about
some festival called Song Kran is starting to
increase an underlying excitement rising
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
contact us
infothaigurumagazinecom
All videos in this magazine are
available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
SLEEPY NANA dream destination
Relatively unknown and uncrowded
Nan has it all This gem of a province
hides an abundance of cultural and
natural attractions ancient temples
pristine forests rivers mountain
peaks but what strikes you most is
its omnipresent feel of an untroubled
authentic way of life
Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings
you this genuine feel in pictures and footage
For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of
Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant
nature and the nature of its people show
Thailand - as is often said before hordes of
tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas
it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan
managed to escape this proces but will it stay
that way Nan shares most of its border with
neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening
of the border and beyond towards China it is to
be expected that it will ultimately become an
important gateway for trade and tourism
Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town
and the countryside will enchant you and the natural
cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy
for at least a couple of days The town along the banks
of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base
to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night
life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous
temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue
influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The
great surroundings can best be explored by renting a
motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo
Much of the province is devoted to farming
Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still
being practised in areas of the province resulting
in a landscape where forests and fields alternate
Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside
of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature
peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich
natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the
province sees far fewer visitors than popular
neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You
can go white water rafting on the Wa River
along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim
National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay
overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes
Touring Nan
Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern
lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities
of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old
salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via
endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges
and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with
orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers
Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready
to be harvested broke through the green hills
giving a golden hue to the landscape
We encountered friendly villagers who worked
their way through the dry fields - meanwhile
singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to
supplement their meager incomes Despite their
hardship they showed us their heartwarming
hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes
with us
This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi
Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and
sparsely populated that we only passed two
cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos
difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand
nowadays
PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river
The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness
begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over
the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above
the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is
broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices
Then the carved image of a Naga becomes
visible above the water line followed by more
than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted
in red and gold colorshellip
During the year the remote provincial town
of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a
year for the annual spectacle of traditional
Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos
water artery The finals are held over two
days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos
banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite
team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in
Thailand yet relatively unknown
The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long
simple shelters where the massive dragon boats
are housed during the year Just once a year
they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos
most important sporting and social event The
event takes place right after the end of the
rainy season around early November when
water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at
their highest The colorful races are part of the
festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the
last day of Buddhist Lent in October
The narrow boats are made from massive
hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters
in length depending how many paddlers they
are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily
distinguishable by their use of bright colors and
mythical designs in the traditional local style
The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of
each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting
only the good ones to participate in their race
How to get there
Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is
connected by plane and by bus to the rest of
the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan
Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice
each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to
Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to
Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on
the service
Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan
(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8
hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)
The contestants of the races are classified into
three categories mdashlarge medium and small
boats Depending on their length each boat can
accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers
sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the
same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously
against the current to the frantic beating of a
drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern
The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying
their attempt to reach the finish line first and
the paddles churning up the river creates a
spectacular atmosphere
Son
g K
ran
in
Ch
ian
g M
ai
Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of
the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down
in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The
days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing
steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the
hot months of April and May The stifling mid-
day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out
unless necessary The buzz around town about
some festival called Song Kran is starting to
increase an underlying excitement rising
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
contact us
infothaigurumagazinecom
All videos in this magazine are
available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
Relatively unknown and uncrowded
Nan has it all This gem of a province
hides an abundance of cultural and
natural attractions ancient temples
pristine forests rivers mountain
peaks but what strikes you most is
its omnipresent feel of an untroubled
authentic way of life
Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings
you this genuine feel in pictures and footage
For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of
Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant
nature and the nature of its people show
Thailand - as is often said before hordes of
tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas
it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan
managed to escape this proces but will it stay
that way Nan shares most of its border with
neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening
of the border and beyond towards China it is to
be expected that it will ultimately become an
important gateway for trade and tourism
Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town
and the countryside will enchant you and the natural
cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy
for at least a couple of days The town along the banks
of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base
to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night
life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous
temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue
influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The
great surroundings can best be explored by renting a
motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo
Much of the province is devoted to farming
Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still
being practised in areas of the province resulting
in a landscape where forests and fields alternate
Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside
of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature
peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich
natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the
province sees far fewer visitors than popular
neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You
can go white water rafting on the Wa River
along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim
National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay
overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes
Touring Nan
Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern
lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities
of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old
salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via
endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges
and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with
orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers
Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready
to be harvested broke through the green hills
giving a golden hue to the landscape
We encountered friendly villagers who worked
their way through the dry fields - meanwhile
singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to
supplement their meager incomes Despite their
hardship they showed us their heartwarming
hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes
with us
This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi
Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and
sparsely populated that we only passed two
cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos
difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand
nowadays
PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river
The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness
begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over
the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above
the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is
broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices
Then the carved image of a Naga becomes
visible above the water line followed by more
than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted
in red and gold colorshellip
During the year the remote provincial town
of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a
year for the annual spectacle of traditional
Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos
water artery The finals are held over two
days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos
banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite
team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in
Thailand yet relatively unknown
The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long
simple shelters where the massive dragon boats
are housed during the year Just once a year
they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos
most important sporting and social event The
event takes place right after the end of the
rainy season around early November when
water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at
their highest The colorful races are part of the
festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the
last day of Buddhist Lent in October
The narrow boats are made from massive
hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters
in length depending how many paddlers they
are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily
distinguishable by their use of bright colors and
mythical designs in the traditional local style
The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of
each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting
only the good ones to participate in their race
How to get there
Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is
connected by plane and by bus to the rest of
the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan
Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice
each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to
Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to
Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on
the service
Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan
(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8
hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)
The contestants of the races are classified into
three categories mdashlarge medium and small
boats Depending on their length each boat can
accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers
sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the
same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously
against the current to the frantic beating of a
drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern
The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying
their attempt to reach the finish line first and
the paddles churning up the river creates a
spectacular atmosphere
Son
g K
ran
in
Ch
ian
g M
ai
Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of
the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down
in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The
days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing
steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the
hot months of April and May The stifling mid-
day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out
unless necessary The buzz around town about
some festival called Song Kran is starting to
increase an underlying excitement rising
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
contact us
infothaigurumagazinecom
All videos in this magazine are
available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
Thai-Guru hit the back roads of Nan and brings
you this genuine feel in pictures and footage
For the real Thailand enthusiast the province of
Nan is a must-visit on the itinerary Its abundant
nature and the nature of its people show
Thailand - as is often said before hordes of
tourists move in to a new travel destination - ldquoas
it was thirty years agordquo Until this moment Nan
managed to escape this proces but will it stay
that way Nan shares most of its border with
neighbouring Laos and with the recent opening
of the border and beyond towards China it is to
be expected that it will ultimately become an
important gateway for trade and tourism
Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town
and the countryside will enchant you and the natural
cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy
for at least a couple of days The town along the banks
of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base
to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night
life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous
temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue
influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The
great surroundings can best be explored by renting a
motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo
Much of the province is devoted to farming
Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still
being practised in areas of the province resulting
in a landscape where forests and fields alternate
Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside
of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature
peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich
natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the
province sees far fewer visitors than popular
neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You
can go white water rafting on the Wa River
along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim
National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay
overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes
Touring Nan
Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern
lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities
of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old
salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via
endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges
and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with
orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers
Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready
to be harvested broke through the green hills
giving a golden hue to the landscape
We encountered friendly villagers who worked
their way through the dry fields - meanwhile
singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to
supplement their meager incomes Despite their
hardship they showed us their heartwarming
hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes
with us
This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi
Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and
sparsely populated that we only passed two
cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos
difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand
nowadays
PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river
The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness
begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over
the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above
the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is
broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices
Then the carved image of a Naga becomes
visible above the water line followed by more
than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted
in red and gold colorshellip
During the year the remote provincial town
of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a
year for the annual spectacle of traditional
Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos
water artery The finals are held over two
days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos
banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite
team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in
Thailand yet relatively unknown
The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long
simple shelters where the massive dragon boats
are housed during the year Just once a year
they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos
most important sporting and social event The
event takes place right after the end of the
rainy season around early November when
water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at
their highest The colorful races are part of the
festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the
last day of Buddhist Lent in October
The narrow boats are made from massive
hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters
in length depending how many paddlers they
are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily
distinguishable by their use of bright colors and
mythical designs in the traditional local style
The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of
each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting
only the good ones to participate in their race
How to get there
Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is
connected by plane and by bus to the rest of
the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan
Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice
each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to
Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to
Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on
the service
Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan
(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8
hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)
The contestants of the races are classified into
three categories mdashlarge medium and small
boats Depending on their length each boat can
accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers
sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the
same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously
against the current to the frantic beating of a
drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern
The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying
their attempt to reach the finish line first and
the paddles churning up the river creates a
spectacular atmosphere
Son
g K
ran
in
Ch
ian
g M
ai
Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of
the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down
in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The
days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing
steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the
hot months of April and May The stifling mid-
day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out
unless necessary The buzz around town about
some festival called Song Kran is starting to
increase an underlying excitement rising
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
contact us
infothaigurumagazinecom
All videos in this magazine are
available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
Unless yoursquore a heartfelt city person both the town
and the countryside will enchant you and the natural
cultural and adventurous attractions will keep you busy
for at least a couple of days The town along the banks
of the Nan River has a relaxed charm and is a good base
to explore the province but donrsquot expect a rich night
life Within walking distance you find Nanrsquos famous
temples which distinct themselves by their Thai Lue
influence brought from Xishuangbanna in China The
great surroundings can best be explored by renting a
motorbike or car to drive one of the lsquoloopsrsquo
Much of the province is devoted to farming
Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still
being practised in areas of the province resulting
in a landscape where forests and fields alternate
Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside
of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature
peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich
natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the
province sees far fewer visitors than popular
neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You
can go white water rafting on the Wa River
along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim
National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay
overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes
Touring Nan
Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern
lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities
of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old
salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via
endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges
and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with
orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers
Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready
to be harvested broke through the green hills
giving a golden hue to the landscape
We encountered friendly villagers who worked
their way through the dry fields - meanwhile
singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to
supplement their meager incomes Despite their
hardship they showed us their heartwarming
hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes
with us
This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi
Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and
sparsely populated that we only passed two
cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos
difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand
nowadays
PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river
The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness
begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over
the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above
the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is
broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices
Then the carved image of a Naga becomes
visible above the water line followed by more
than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted
in red and gold colorshellip
During the year the remote provincial town
of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a
year for the annual spectacle of traditional
Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos
water artery The finals are held over two
days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos
banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite
team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in
Thailand yet relatively unknown
The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long
simple shelters where the massive dragon boats
are housed during the year Just once a year
they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos
most important sporting and social event The
event takes place right after the end of the
rainy season around early November when
water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at
their highest The colorful races are part of the
festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the
last day of Buddhist Lent in October
The narrow boats are made from massive
hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters
in length depending how many paddlers they
are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily
distinguishable by their use of bright colors and
mythical designs in the traditional local style
The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of
each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting
only the good ones to participate in their race
How to get there
Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is
connected by plane and by bus to the rest of
the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan
Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice
each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to
Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to
Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on
the service
Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan
(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8
hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)
The contestants of the races are classified into
three categories mdashlarge medium and small
boats Depending on their length each boat can
accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers
sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the
same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously
against the current to the frantic beating of a
drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern
The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying
their attempt to reach the finish line first and
the paddles churning up the river creates a
spectacular atmosphere
Son
g K
ran
in
Ch
ian
g M
ai
Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of
the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down
in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The
days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing
steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the
hot months of April and May The stifling mid-
day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out
unless necessary The buzz around town about
some festival called Song Kran is starting to
increase an underlying excitement rising
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
contact us
infothaigurumagazinecom
All videos in this magazine are
available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
Much of the province is devoted to farming
Unfortunately lsquoslash amp burnrsquo agriculture is still
being practised in areas of the province resulting
in a landscape where forests and fields alternate
Luckily this practice mainly takes place outside
of Nanrsquos stunning national parks which feature
peaks to nearly 2000 meters high The rich
natural beauty makes it ideal for trekking as the
province sees far fewer visitors than popular
neighbouring Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai You
can go white water rafting on the Wa River
along the beautiful nature of Mae Charim
National Park kayaking on the Nan River or stay
overnight at Thai Lue hill-tribesrsquo homes
Touring Nan
Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern
lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities
of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old
salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via
endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges
and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with
orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers
Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready
to be harvested broke through the green hills
giving a golden hue to the landscape
We encountered friendly villagers who worked
their way through the dry fields - meanwhile
singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to
supplement their meager incomes Despite their
hardship they showed us their heartwarming
hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes
with us
This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi
Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and
sparsely populated that we only passed two
cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos
difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand
nowadays
PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river
The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness
begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over
the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above
the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is
broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices
Then the carved image of a Naga becomes
visible above the water line followed by more
than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted
in red and gold colorshellip
During the year the remote provincial town
of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a
year for the annual spectacle of traditional
Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos
water artery The finals are held over two
days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos
banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite
team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in
Thailand yet relatively unknown
The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long
simple shelters where the massive dragon boats
are housed during the year Just once a year
they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos
most important sporting and social event The
event takes place right after the end of the
rainy season around early November when
water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at
their highest The colorful races are part of the
festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the
last day of Buddhist Lent in October
The narrow boats are made from massive
hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters
in length depending how many paddlers they
are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily
distinguishable by their use of bright colors and
mythical designs in the traditional local style
The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of
each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting
only the good ones to participate in their race
How to get there
Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is
connected by plane and by bus to the rest of
the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan
Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice
each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to
Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to
Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on
the service
Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan
(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8
hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)
The contestants of the races are classified into
three categories mdashlarge medium and small
boats Depending on their length each boat can
accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers
sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the
same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously
against the current to the frantic beating of a
drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern
The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying
their attempt to reach the finish line first and
the paddles churning up the river creates a
spectacular atmosphere
Son
g K
ran
in
Ch
ian
g M
ai
Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of
the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down
in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The
days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing
steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the
hot months of April and May The stifling mid-
day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out
unless necessary The buzz around town about
some festival called Song Kran is starting to
increase an underlying excitement rising
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
contact us
infothaigurumagazinecom
All videos in this magazine are
available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
Touring Nan
Thai-Guru left Nan town to do the southern
lsquolooprsquo a 7-hour drive via the small communities
of Santisuk Huai Loi and Huai Lom to the old
salt mining village of Bo Klua It took us via
endlessly curling roads over mountain ranges
and hill tops passing dense verdant forests with
orchids and ferns and crossing pristine rivers
Sometimes a patchwork of corn fields ready
to be harvested broke through the green hills
giving a golden hue to the landscape
We encountered friendly villagers who worked
their way through the dry fields - meanwhile
singing together - to bring in stacks of corn to
supplement their meager incomes Despite their
hardship they showed us their heartwarming
hospitality by sharing their northern Thai dishes
with us
This part of Nan - where Khun Nan and Doi
Phu Kla national parks meet - is so remote and
sparsely populated that we only passed two
cars during the entire road trip something thatrsquos
difficult to experience in many parts of Thailand
nowadays
PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river
The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness
begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over
the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above
the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is
broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices
Then the carved image of a Naga becomes
visible above the water line followed by more
than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted
in red and gold colorshellip
During the year the remote provincial town
of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a
year for the annual spectacle of traditional
Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos
water artery The finals are held over two
days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos
banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite
team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in
Thailand yet relatively unknown
The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long
simple shelters where the massive dragon boats
are housed during the year Just once a year
they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos
most important sporting and social event The
event takes place right after the end of the
rainy season around early November when
water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at
their highest The colorful races are part of the
festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the
last day of Buddhist Lent in October
The narrow boats are made from massive
hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters
in length depending how many paddlers they
are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily
distinguishable by their use of bright colors and
mythical designs in the traditional local style
The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of
each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting
only the good ones to participate in their race
How to get there
Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is
connected by plane and by bus to the rest of
the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan
Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice
each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to
Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to
Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on
the service
Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan
(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8
hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)
The contestants of the races are classified into
three categories mdashlarge medium and small
boats Depending on their length each boat can
accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers
sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the
same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously
against the current to the frantic beating of a
drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern
The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying
their attempt to reach the finish line first and
the paddles churning up the river creates a
spectacular atmosphere
Son
g K
ran
in
Ch
ian
g M
ai
Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of
the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down
in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The
days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing
steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the
hot months of April and May The stifling mid-
day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out
unless necessary The buzz around town about
some festival called Song Kran is starting to
increase an underlying excitement rising
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
contact us
infothaigurumagazinecom
All videos in this magazine are
available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
PULSE OF THE PADDLESTraditional long boat races on the Nan river
The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness
begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over
the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above
the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is
broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices
Then the carved image of a Naga becomes
visible above the water line followed by more
than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted
in red and gold colorshellip
During the year the remote provincial town
of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a
year for the annual spectacle of traditional
Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos
water artery The finals are held over two
days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos
banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite
team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in
Thailand yet relatively unknown
The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long
simple shelters where the massive dragon boats
are housed during the year Just once a year
they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos
most important sporting and social event The
event takes place right after the end of the
rainy season around early November when
water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at
their highest The colorful races are part of the
festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the
last day of Buddhist Lent in October
The narrow boats are made from massive
hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters
in length depending how many paddlers they
are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily
distinguishable by their use of bright colors and
mythical designs in the traditional local style
The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of
each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting
only the good ones to participate in their race
How to get there
Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is
connected by plane and by bus to the rest of
the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan
Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice
each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to
Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to
Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on
the service
Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan
(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8
hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)
The contestants of the races are classified into
three categories mdashlarge medium and small
boats Depending on their length each boat can
accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers
sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the
same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously
against the current to the frantic beating of a
drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern
The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying
their attempt to reach the finish line first and
the paddles churning up the river creates a
spectacular atmosphere
Son
g K
ran
in
Ch
ian
g M
ai
Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of
the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down
in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The
days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing
steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the
hot months of April and May The stifling mid-
day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out
unless necessary The buzz around town about
some festival called Song Kran is starting to
increase an underlying excitement rising
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
contact us
infothaigurumagazinecom
All videos in this magazine are
available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
The sun sits low on the horizon and darkness
begins to fall a peaceful atmosphere hangs over
the Nan river and a gentle breeze travels above
the swiftly flowing water All at once silence is
broken by rhythmic chanting of male voices
Then the carved image of a Naga becomes
visible above the water line followed by more
than 50 oarsmen in a long narrow boat painted
in red and gold colorshellip
During the year the remote provincial town
of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a
year for the annual spectacle of traditional
Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos
water artery The finals are held over two
days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos
banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite
team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in
Thailand yet relatively unknown
The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long
simple shelters where the massive dragon boats
are housed during the year Just once a year
they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos
most important sporting and social event The
event takes place right after the end of the
rainy season around early November when
water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at
their highest The colorful races are part of the
festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the
last day of Buddhist Lent in October
The narrow boats are made from massive
hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters
in length depending how many paddlers they
are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily
distinguishable by their use of bright colors and
mythical designs in the traditional local style
The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of
each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting
only the good ones to participate in their race
How to get there
Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is
connected by plane and by bus to the rest of
the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan
Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice
each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to
Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to
Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on
the service
Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan
(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8
hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)
The contestants of the races are classified into
three categories mdashlarge medium and small
boats Depending on their length each boat can
accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers
sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the
same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously
against the current to the frantic beating of a
drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern
The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying
their attempt to reach the finish line first and
the paddles churning up the river creates a
spectacular atmosphere
Son
g K
ran
in
Ch
ian
g M
ai
Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of
the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down
in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The
days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing
steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the
hot months of April and May The stifling mid-
day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out
unless necessary The buzz around town about
some festival called Song Kran is starting to
increase an underlying excitement rising
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
contact us
infothaigurumagazinecom
All videos in this magazine are
available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
During the year the remote provincial town
of Nan is peaceful but it comes alive once a
year for the annual spectacle of traditional
Lanna style long boat racing on the townrsquos
water artery The finals are held over two
days with hundreds of people lining the riverrsquos
banks cheering on the rowers of their favorite
team Itrsquos one of the most amazing festivals in
Thailand yet relatively unknown
The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long
simple shelters where the massive dragon boats
are housed during the year Just once a year
they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos
most important sporting and social event The
event takes place right after the end of the
rainy season around early November when
water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at
their highest The colorful races are part of the
festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the
last day of Buddhist Lent in October
The narrow boats are made from massive
hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters
in length depending how many paddlers they
are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily
distinguishable by their use of bright colors and
mythical designs in the traditional local style
The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of
each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting
only the good ones to participate in their race
How to get there
Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is
connected by plane and by bus to the rest of
the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan
Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice
each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to
Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to
Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on
the service
Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan
(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8
hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)
The contestants of the races are classified into
three categories mdashlarge medium and small
boats Depending on their length each boat can
accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers
sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the
same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously
against the current to the frantic beating of a
drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern
The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying
their attempt to reach the finish line first and
the paddles churning up the river creates a
spectacular atmosphere
Son
g K
ran
in
Ch
ian
g M
ai
Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of
the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down
in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The
days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing
steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the
hot months of April and May The stifling mid-
day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out
unless necessary The buzz around town about
some festival called Song Kran is starting to
increase an underlying excitement rising
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
contact us
infothaigurumagazinecom
All videos in this magazine are
available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
The grounds of Nanrsquos temples contain long
simple shelters where the massive dragon boats
are housed during the year Just once a year
they are brought out for the regatta the townrsquos
most important sporting and social event The
event takes place right after the end of the
rainy season around early November when
water levels in Thailandrsquos many rivers are at
their highest The colorful races are part of the
festivities around lsquoAwk Pansarsquo which marks the
last day of Buddhist Lent in October
The narrow boats are made from massive
hollowed-out logs measuring 20 to 30 meters
in length depending how many paddlers they
are built to hold Nanrsquos long boats are easily
distinguishable by their use of bright colors and
mythical designs in the traditional local style
The fierce naga heads that adorn the prow of
each boat will chase away evil spirits inviting
only the good ones to participate in their race
How to get there
Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is
connected by plane and by bus to the rest of
the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan
Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice
each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to
Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to
Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on
the service
Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan
(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8
hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)
The contestants of the races are classified into
three categories mdashlarge medium and small
boats Depending on their length each boat can
accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers
sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the
same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously
against the current to the frantic beating of a
drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern
The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying
their attempt to reach the finish line first and
the paddles churning up the river creates a
spectacular atmosphere
Son
g K
ran
in
Ch
ian
g M
ai
Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of
the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down
in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The
days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing
steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the
hot months of April and May The stifling mid-
day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out
unless necessary The buzz around town about
some festival called Song Kran is starting to
increase an underlying excitement rising
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
contact us
infothaigurumagazinecom
All videos in this magazine are
available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
How to get there
Nan is located 668 km north of Bangkok It is
connected by plane and by bus to the rest of
the country Nok Air offers flights between Nan
Airport and Bangkok Don Mueang airport twice
each day Kan Airlines connects Chiang Mai to
Nan twice a week The bus from Bangkok to
Nan will take from 10 to 13 hours depending on
the service
Regular buses also run from Chiang Mai to Nan
(around 6 hours) from Chiang Rai (around 8
hours) and from Phrae (around 3 hours)
The contestants of the races are classified into
three categories mdashlarge medium and small
boats Depending on their length each boat can
accommodate up to as much as 60 paddlers
sitting in two rows The crew all dressed in the
same brightly colored shirts paddle furiously
against the current to the frantic beating of a
drum by their leader who is sitting on the stern
The chanting of the sportsmen accompanying
their attempt to reach the finish line first and
the paddles churning up the river creates a
spectacular atmosphere
Son
g K
ran
in
Ch
ian
g M
ai
Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of
the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down
in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The
days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing
steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the
hot months of April and May The stifling mid-
day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out
unless necessary The buzz around town about
some festival called Song Kran is starting to
increase an underlying excitement rising
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
contact us
infothaigurumagazinecom
All videos in this magazine are
available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
Son
g K
ran
in
Ch
ian
g M
ai
Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of
the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down
in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The
days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing
steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the
hot months of April and May The stifling mid-
day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out
unless necessary The buzz around town about
some festival called Song Kran is starting to
increase an underlying excitement rising
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
contact us
infothaigurumagazinecom
All videos in this magazine are
available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
Waking up in my room with a noisy humming of
the old ceiling fan forcing its warm dry air down
in a feeble effort to try and cool me down The
days are starting to slowly get warmer climbing
steadily towards the mid-40s experienced in the
hot months of April and May The stifling mid-
day heat keeps me in doors rarely venturing out
unless necessary The buzz around town about
some festival called Song Kran is starting to
increase an underlying excitement rising
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
contact us
infothaigurumagazinecom
All videos in this magazine are
available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
Itrsquos a week-long debauchery of water throwing
alcohol drinking and lots of crazy fun to be had
by the crowds of raving lunatics who descend
on Chiang Mai at this time The thing about
Song Kran is either you love it or hate it Itrsquos all
good fun
Traditionally Song Kran is a festival to celebrate
the Thai New Year and the planting of the new
seasonrsquos rice It is a centuries old festival where
the home is cleaned in the days prior - much
like spring cleaning in the west - families gather
together people eat and are merry and water is
sprinkled onto others in a gesture of good will
friendship and celebration
This still happens in many parts of Thailand in
smaller communities where the pace of life is
slower This is a far cry from the modern-day
festival yoursquoll experience in Chiang Mai or other
large cities in Thailand
Officially Song Kran begins on the 13th of April
until the 15th of April but usually the children
who are on summer holidays will be seen at
various points around the old city moat days
in advance swimming and playing while some
tourists wander around with their water guns
in-hand spraying the unwary This eventually
builds up into the full blown water flinging
bombardment in which thousands of people
partake ever year
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
contact us
infothaigurumagazinecom
All videos in this magazine are
available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
Donrsquot think that during this time yoursquoll be going out and keeping dry thatrsquos
virtually impossible So if you donrsquot intend to get wet and are not planning to
go outside then it is a good idea to get plenty of supplies before it all starts
The roads are choka-blocked full of pickup trucks loaded with people and
their water barrel It can take hours to do a circuit of the city during the
festivities Even on foot getting from one place to another can be an arduous
task due to the huge crowds
For those of you new to Song Kran (and even some of you old-timers) there
are a few does and donrsquots to keep in mind Firstly donrsquot throw a bucket of
water aggressively and make sure you keep a good grip on the handle so
it doesnrsquot fly out into someonersquos face Take care when riding bicycles and
motorcycles the roads will be wet and slippery Donrsquot drink and drive or ride
The police set up roadside check points and test for alcohol so beware
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
contact us
infothaigurumagazinecom
All videos in this magazine are
available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
Double wrap anything you donrsquot want getting
wet like mobiles and wallets Playing with water
is traditionally only during daylight hours usually
about 10am until dusk though some parts of
town such as Loi Kro Rd area this extends into
the evening
If yoursquore not used to it donrsquot start drinking too
heavily during the day yoursquoll only pass out early
and miss all the fun Keep covered up from the
sun lotions soon wash off with all the water
being thrown about so maybe a long sleeved
top is better to keep protected from the sun
All-in-all it is a great time of year to be in Chiang
Mai celebrating the Song Kran festival
So for everyone thinking about joining in then
hope you all have a fantastic time
and above all stay safe
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
contact us
infothaigurumagazinecom
All videos in this magazine are
available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
Doi Inthanon
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
contact us
infothaigurumagazinecom
All videos in this magazine are
available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
After working hard on one of our issues we
decided we needed a couple of days off and
what do we do when we need to relax
You guessed it we explore Thailand One
place that we had not covered yet for
Thai Guru magazine was Doi Inthanon
Conveniently close to home and according
to the experts a place worth going to Initially
wanting to leave the cameras home we
decided to take them anyway Whether that
was a good or a bad decision you can decide
for yourself the result is on the next few
pages
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
contact us
infothaigurumagazinecom
All videos in this magazine are
available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
Thailandrsquos magical bamboo tattoos
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
contact us
infothaigurumagazinecom
All videos in this magazine are
available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
Chiang Mai has an abundance of
tattoo parlours dotted around the city
and is well known for the technical
abilities of the artists that spend their
time applying ink to skin Last month
Thai Guru visited Naga Tattoo to find
out a bit more about the traditional art
of the bamboo tattoo
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
contact us
infothaigurumagazinecom
All videos in this magazine are
available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
Although a sharpened length of bamboo has
been replaced by a metal needle the method
of applying the ink has remained the same for
centuries and involves the experienced artist
repeatedly bouncing the sharpened point off the
tatooees skin
We were shown a two-foot steel needle used by
the artist to prick the skin and inject the ink into
the dermis
These are handed down by older tattooists to
younger artists Although the point of the needle
is not changed it will be cleaned in alcohol
before it is dipped in the ink
Traditionally this is a concoction of lampblack
charcoal or Indian sepia In the past all sorts of
weird and wonderful ingredients could go into
the ink such as lizard skins tree sap and herbs
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
contact us
infothaigurumagazinecom
All videos in this magazine are
available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
Emily was having her own design tattooed onto
the side of her body when we arrived The artist
starts by transferring the outline of the picture or
pattern onto the skin
The outline is then pricked into the skin with ink
Once this is complete itrsquos is time for the colour
and subtle shading to be added Although
watching the needle bounce of Emilyrsquos skin
looked painful she convinced us that she was
quite comfortable
The image chosen and the position of the tattoo
on the body have traditionally had a variety of
meanings For instance a Thai kick boxer might
choose a monkey because of its strength and
agility
However these days aesthetics seem to be
just as important as any symbolic meaning
Most parlours have books of traditional designs
including tigers naga serpents and eagles
Legend has it that magic tattoos provide both
spiritual and physical protection to wearer
Some can deflect bullets and others repel knives
as long as the artist is qualified to activate the
protective spells
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
contact us
infothaigurumagazinecom
All videos in this magazine are
available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
We left Emily reclining under the tattooists
needle We were told that it would need at least
a couple of sittings before the design would
be complete Having a tattoo applied in the
traditional manner is quite an undertaking but
the results are certainly eye catching
Those who want the protection of magic tattoo
but are not keen on inking their body can opt
for an invisible tattoo where the ink is replaced
with sesame oil That may seem a bit pointless
but we are assured that the magic remains long
after the sesame oil has disappeared
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
contact us
infothaigurumagazinecom
All videos in this magazine are
available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
Whatrsquos New
We came up with some cool tours of 4 fun days
in the 4 regions (North South East West) of
Thailand
In And Around BANGKOK offers
an evening bicycle tour train market mangrove
forest boat trip Madame Tussaud Ocean World
and Terminal 21 (a very funky Department
Store)
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-bangkok
In And Around ISAAN puts you on the
Ancient Khmer Temple Trail with a few World
Heritage Sites
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-isaan
phuchancom
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
contact us
infothaigurumagazinecom
All videos in this magazine are
available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
In And Around CHIANG MAI let
you visit the night bazar Lanna style temples
Doi Suthep Sankamphaeng handicrafts District
and experience a zip line adventure
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-chiang-mai
In And Around KOH CHANG
gives you a 5 islands boat trip nice beaches
coral ranges plentiful marine life hills forests
and streams and a mangrove forest boat trip
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-koh-chang
In And Around PHUKET gives you a
chance to experience an island boat trip cool
cooking class zip line adventure and the Old
Town night walking tour
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-phuket
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
contact us
infothaigurumagazinecom
All videos in this magazine are
available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
In And Around KOH SAMUI let
you cruise around the island visit other islands
enjoy Angthong Marine Park tour fine beaches
coral ranges and see plentiful marine life
httpphuchancomtour4-days-in-and-
around-samui
These can be combined of course with our
other day tours or used as extensions before
after our round trips
We also added a new lsquofoodiersquo excursion
Prepare your tastebuds for our delicious foodie
tour (daily except Mondays) in Bangkokrsquos
200-year-old China Town district by visiting
various tasty eateries from sit-on-the-pavement-
vendors to characterful restaurants more details
here
httpphuchancomtourtasting-chinatown
And a special festival tour
During October 15 ndash 23 the annual
Phuket Vegetarian Festival will be celebrated an
incredible spectacle especially in Phuket Old
Town
The street processions focus around the five
oldest shrines in Phuket Put Jaw Jui Tui Bang
Niew Cherng Talay and Kathu Shrine but
others are visited as well as there are more
than40 Chinese shrines on Phuket
During this period we arrange a special 3 day
Festival tour more details here
httpphuchancomtourphuket-vegetarian-
festival-october-2015
One of our Blog Posts
Most visitors to Thailand have heard of the
weekend market as a lsquomustrsquo place to visit but
probably also that it is a chaotic place Since the
last part is correct we decided to clarify a few
things about this sprawling market
More here httpphuchancomchatuchak-
weekend-market
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
contact us
infothaigurumagazinecom
All videos in this magazine are
available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law
copy All rights reserved
trade Thai Guru Magazine is a registered trademark of ArtFactory Thailand Limited Partnership
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher
To submit material for consideration for publication please visit our website wwwthaigurumagazinecom
contact us
infothaigurumagazinecom
All videos in this magazine are
available in HD on our youtube channel
find us on facebook
Thai Guru Magazine is supported by
Thai Guru Magazine content is for your general information and use only It is subject to change without notice
The publisher does not provide any warranty or guarantee as to the accuracy timeliness performance completeness or suitability of the information and materials found or offered in Thai Guru Magazine
for any particular purpose You acknowledge that such information and materials may contain inaccuracies or errors and we expressly exclude liability for any such inaccuracies or errors to the fullest extent
permitted by law The use of any information or materials found in Thai Guru Magazine is entirely at own risk for which the publisher can not be held liable It is the userrsquos responsibility to ensure that any product
service or information available through Thai Guru Magazine meets your specific requirements Thai Guru Magazine contains materials that are owned by or licensed to Artfactory Ltd Partnership (the publisher)
These materials include but are not limited to text photographs video graphics the design layout look and appearance Unless written authorization is provided by the publisher reproduction is prohibited
Unauthorized use of this material may give rise to a claim for damages andor be a criminal offense Thai Guru Magazine may also include links to websites and other digital media These links are provided for
userrsquos convenience to provide further information They do not signify that the publisher endorses those other media and the publisher has no responsibility for the content of the other media The use of Thai
Guru Magazine and any dispute arising out of such use of any information provided by Thai Guru Magazine is subject to the Thai Law