TPHP-free nail polish page 3 page 6 page 9 page 10 NEWS · TPHP-free nail polish page 9 Retail n p page 6 Brands when launches sheet masks in UK page 10 9 November 2015 cosmetics

The beauty conglomerate is on track toacquire the entire beauty and personalcare business of Hypermarcas in a $1bncash deal due to close in March 2016

It’s another win for Coty. This time, the globalbeauty heavyweight has acquired the personalcare and beauty business of one of Brazil’s

leading FMCG companies, Hypermarcas.Coty will hand over $1bn in cash in return for

five personal care brands: Monange (multi-category personal care); Risqué (nail polish);Bozzano (male grooming); Paixão (skin care); andBiocolor (hair colourant).

A number of these brands used to be owned by other beauty players before being acquired by Hypermarcas when it underwent its ownacquisition spree in 2008; that year it boughtBozzano from Revlon, and Risqué and Biocolorwhen it took over parent company Niasi.

On Coty’s latest deal, Bart Becht, Interim CEOand Chairman of the company, said: “We areexcited to announce the acquisition of the beautybusiness of Hypermarcas, a leading beauty andpersonal care business in one of the world’s mostimportant retail markets. We expect that thestrength of the brands, the impressive leadershipteam and its robust infrastructure will enhanceCoty’s competitive position and very muchcomplement our contemplated merger with theP&G speciality beauty business. Today’sannouncement is another step in our progressiontowards creating a pure-play global leader andchallenger in beauty.” The deal is expected toclose in two stages, ending in March 2016.

In addition to brands, Coty will also take onresponsibility for manufacturing and distributionfacilities in the state of Goiás, located in Brazil’sCenter-West. The facility is expected to providean “excellent platform” to integrate Coty’sexisting business and the P&G business itrecently acquired that already operates in Brazil.

Coty’s latest acquisition follows just weeks afterits last. In October, the multinational snapped updigital marketing company Beamly, based both in the UK and US.Read more at cosmeticsbusiness.com

BusinessBulldog sales soar 40%,Co-Founder revealspage 3

InnovationMarket widens forTPHP-free nail polish page 9

RetailNARS and Steven Kleincollaborate for pop-uppage 6

Brandswhen launches sheetmasks in UKpage 10

9 November 2015 cosmetics business news 1

NEWScosmeticsbusiness.com twitter.com/cb_beautynews 9 November 2015 Issue 43

COTY DESCENDSON BRAZIL IN $1BNTAKEOVER DEAL

Despite first appearances, this bottle of what looks to be a household spray cleaneris in fact Jeremy Scott’s latest fragrance creation for perfume house Moschino.

The US fashion designer, who is Moschino’s Creative Director, was inspired to create Moschino Fresh Couture Eau de Toilette after exploring the concept ofjuxtaposing an everyday, mundane vessel with a luxurious and precious fragrancein “the ultimate dichotomy of high and low”. Moschino Fresh Couture containstop notes of mandarin, bergamot and ylang ylang; heart notes of raspberry,white peony and osmanthus; and a dry down of clear woods, white patchouliand ambrox. The scent is available in 30ml (£37), 50ml (£54) and 100ml (£70).

It is not the first time Scott has pushed the boundaries of conventionalfragrance packaging; last year, he was behind the launch of TOY, a fragrancehoused inside a teddy bear, which itself came packed inside a box with aplastic viewing window. Read more at cosmeticsbusiness.com

Copyright © 2015 HPCi Media. This publication may not be distributed without prior permission.

JD Beauty, a US designer and marketer ofbranded professional brushes and beautyaccessories, has sold a majority stake to

private equity firm Topspin Partners.JD Beauty handles brands including Wet

Brush, Lure, Mr. Clip, Bombshell, Luxor Pro,Basicare, TS2 and Latina; Wet Brush isthe company’s flagship brand.

Jeff Rosenzweig, Founder and CEO of JDBeauty, said: “We believe we are only at thebeginning of building JD Beauty and the WetBrush brand, and are excited to have Topspin asour partner going forward.”

Before going to press, Elizabeth Arden wasshortly due to announce new quarterly earnings –however, analyst predictions were not positive.

Arden is the owner of a host of celebrityfragrance brands including Elizabeth Taylor,Taylor Swift and Jennifer Aniston, to name but afew, but sales of celebrity scents have suffered inrecent years; analysts have suggested that thenumbers will be subdued for the New Yorkcompany because of this.

Currently, analysts are anticipating earnings in the region of $0.65 a share, although the realnumber could diverge significantly from that:sales of close to $190m were expected last quarteron Wall Street, however, in the end Ardendelivered $175.4m – a 7.5% drop. Arden’s shareprice has picked up since late August lows ($9.53a share) to $12.54 (before press), but that figure isstill well off its $21.67 52-week high.

The innovation pipeline is something Arden isincreasingly focusing on and pressing ahead with;it recently launched its Superstart Skin RenewalBooster with a new campaign that aimed to realignthe brand with younger consumers. The brand isalso pushing ahead with its Christmas giftpromotions, launching a Christmas ad campaign(pictured above).

JD Beauty is said to be the number one sellinghairbrush brand in the professional channel in the US and the fastest growing in the consumerretail channel.

The deal was overseen by investment bankIntrepid Investment Bankers. Steve Davis,Managing Director and Head of the Beauty &Personal Care practice at Intrepid, said: “TheWet Brush has developed a passionate followingwith stylists and consumers, and Jeff and his teamhave done a tremendous job expanding the brandinto new channels and geographies.”Read more at cosmeticsbusiness.com

business

TOPSPIN ACQUIRES MAJORITY STAKE IN JD

UK-based consumer products group 151Products has purchased personal care andhousehold product supplier Swirl Products.

In October, Swirl appointed administrators atFRP Advisory in order to continue trading after an acute shortfall in cash flow. The company hadrecently sold its shares to Statestrong Productsand sought the protection of administration inorder to ring-fence its ongoing trading fromStatestrong, which also went into administration.

Swirl trades as FMCG and supplies brandsincluding Nuage, Escenti, Systeme, Dentiplus,Salon Chic and Hygienics. Its products are soldin high street pharmacies and wholesalers acrossthe UK and in 32 countries.

Swirl has been in business for more than 20years and now hopes that the sale of its FMCGbusiness and assets to 151 Products will helpreposition it for future growth and protect jobroles for its core staff.

Richard Shonn, Managing Director of 151Products, said: “With the support of the 151infrastructure and our access to market, weexpect a very exciting future for the FMCG brandsand a far more stable trading environment fortheir long standing UK suppliers.”

Ben Shapiro, Partner at 151 Products’investment arm, b7 Ventures, added: “Swirl’sunderlying business remains profitable, it endedup in administration only as a result of the failureof its parent company Statestrong Products lastmonth. With the right funding the FMCG team willbe able to continue to grow its core brands andbuild on its success to date.”

Swirl Products finds newhome at 151 Products

Business: Nu Skin meets revenuegoals in Q3 2015 4

Markets: CBN looks at the growth indemand for Halal cosmetics 5

Retail: NARS opens first ever pop-upshop in London’s Soho 6

Expert Advice: Dentist Dr RichardMarques on cosmetic trends 7

Digital: Sigma Beauty teams up withmakeover app Perfect365 8

Innovation: US brand Yuni debutsyoga-inspired beauty products 9

Brands: Korean sheet mask brandwhen launches in the UK 10

People: Ariana Grande for MAC 11

What’s Trending?: CBN’s panellistsdiscuss the trend for cacay nut oil 12

CONTENTS

Subscription DetailsThe subscription includes full digital access to thecosmeticsbusiness.com website,as well as the weekly CosmeticsBusiness News and monthlyCosmetics Business Marketsprint magazines.

NEWS

News Editor Lucy Copp

Reporter Rachel Lawler

Sub Editor Austyn King

Freelance CorrespondentsSarah Cohen, Adrian Holliday, PatriciaMansfield-Devine

Production Designer Ross Murdoch

Art Editor Sibylla Duffy

Digital Production Nita Salem

Editorial Director Erika Hatva

Managing Director Colin Bailey-Wood

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Articles published in this newsletter mayonly be reproduced with permission. Thepublisher accepts no responsibility for anystatements made in signed contributions orin those reproduced fromany other source. ISSN 2057-1984


ANALYSTS ANTICIPATE ARDEN Q1


business

The winners of the Pure Beauty Awards 2015were announced on 29 October. PureBeauty – a sister magazine to CBN that

operates under the Cosmetics Business portfolio oftrade beauty publications – hosted a black-and-gold themed ceremony at London’s Savoy Hotel.

TV presenter Gethin Jones hosted the eventand reality TV star Lucy Mecklenburgh revealedthe winner of this year’s Special InnovationAward, sponsored by SunKissed.

Key UK beauty retailers were in attendanceincluding Harrods, Selfridges, Harvey Nichols,House of Fraser,Debenhams, The PerfumeShop, Boots, Superdrug,QVC, feelunique.com andescentual.com.

There were 35 awardcategories in total with agold, silver, bronze andhighly commended winnerfor each category. Therewas also an award for theBest Online Marketing

Campaign, which was a new surprise award.Big winners on the night included: Simple

Kind to Skin Micellar Cleansing Wipes (BestNew Skin Care Product); Azafran Organics LivePure (Best New Organic Product); TRESemméPerfectly (Un)Done Wave Creating Sea Foam(Best New Hair Care Product); Dove DermaSpaGoodness3 Body Lotion (Best New Body CareProduct); Philips Sonicare AirFloss Pro (BestNew Dental Product); Mary Kay Mineral EyeColour Quad in Sandstorm (Best New EyeProduct); Crabtree & Evelyn Parisian

Millefleurs Flower Water(Best New FemaleFragrance); The PerfumeSociety Hidden TreasuresDiscovery Box (Best NewRetail Innovation); andHeathcote & Ivory (BestOnline MarketingCampaign).For the full list ofwinners, visitcosmeticsbusiness.com

PURE BEAUTY AWARDS NAMES WINNERS NEWS IN BRIEF

Fragrance productioncompany Eurofragance is

due to open a new CreativeCenter in Singapore inJanuary. It is hoped the

facility will help the family-owned business boost its

presence on the Asianmarket and streamline the

execution of certain projects.The 1,100sqm centre will be in the Nucleos Building. Thecentre brings Eurofragance’stotal count to four, with other

facilities established inDubai, Barcelona and Mexico.

Beauty trade show in-cosmeticsis due to hold its biggest eventto date in Paris from 12-14 April2016. The exhibition will be larger

than before, with 1,000sqmmore floor space than last year.In addition, there will be more

than 700 suppliers spanning theingredient, material and

technology sectors. For theevent, in-cosmetics is due tohost a special Market Focusfeature focusing on the US.

Meanwhile, there will also be anew Formulation Lab, with

interactive one-hour sessionsdemonstrating to attendees

how formulations are created.

L’Oréal USA has announcedthe winners of its L’Oréal

USA Women in Digital (WID)Next Generation Awards. The

WID programme supportsfemale entrepreneurs intechnology. This year’s

winners are Cast Beauty,Maven and MikMak. The

winners have been given thechance to present a talk atL’Oréal USA’s Inspiration

Day – an internal marketingconference held this month.

After the presentations, a vote will decide which

entrepreneur will be given a guaranteed pilot test.

Inter Parfums has announcedits preliminary 2015 Q3 sales

results. The fragrance companysaw net sales grow 3.5% to

$138.9m in the three monthsended 30 September, 2015,

compared with $134.2m for thesame period in the previous

year. Consolidated Q3 net salesincreased 11.4%. The companyplans to issue full results for Q32015 on 9 November after the

close of the stock market.


Bulldog Skincare Co-Founder Simon Duffyhas revealed sales of the brand’s productsare increasing 40% year-on-year.

Duffy told CBN he is expecting revenuesclose to £11m for 2015/16. He said: “Moreand more men are learning about thebenefits of healthy skin care regimes. Ithink both skin care and body care will seesubstantial growth over the next five to tenyears.” However, there is renewed pressureon innovation and marketing if Bulldog’sgrowth targets are to be sustained.

Duffy added that Bulldog’s OriginalMoisturiser is the product with most growthpotential. “It was last year’s bestsellingmen’s moisturiser in Sweden. We use eightessential oils to give the product ourrefreshingly masculine signature fragrance,and cram in many powerful naturalingredients such as konjac mannan.”

But with all the competition, what ispersuading men to buy Bulldog? “I think it’sabout feeling better,” explained Duffy, “butgood skin care products and regimes canhave a good impact too.” Readmore at cosmeticsbusiness.com

LVMH beauty retailer Sephora has appointedsupply chain company Ceva Logistics to handleits shipping and logistics inside Brazil. Ceva willbe tasked with consolidating cosmetics products,including Sephora’s own brand SephoraCollection, from 40 distribution points across thecountry into Ceva’s multi-user sites outside thecity of São Paulo.

Sephora had strict criteria for whoever won thecontract, which means that Ceva has had to investheavily in climate control infrastructure to ensurethat items are correctly stored: there are expectedto be over three million skus passing through thesystem each year. Ceva will manage inbound,warehousing, outbound and reverse logistics to Sephora outlets across the country.

“We are very happy to enter this partnershipwith a recognised global player in the 3PLbusiness,” said Fabio Goncalves, Sephora’s SupplyChain Regional Director. He continued: “As weplan to grow in Brazil we can see that Ceva willsupport this growth and be an excellent partnerto deliver our needs.”

Sephora chose Ceva because it needed adynamic 3PL (third-party logistics) company,added Goncalves, that could respond to Sephora’sneeds and tailor its service accordingly.

Ceva’s Vice President of Business Developmentfor South America, Fabio Mendunekas, said hiscompany was proud to bring Sephora into Ceva’sportfolio of cosmetics and health care customers.“With this contract we further our objective ofdiversifying our sector portfolio,” he added. Read more at cosmeticsbusiness.com

SEPHORA APPOINTS CEVA TOCONDUCT BRAZILIAN LOGISTICS


It looks as if Nu Skin might just deliver on thebold predicition it made after releasing its Q2results this year.

Back in August, the US direct selling cosmeticscompany made its intention for the second half of 2015 clear – a return to revenue growth. Andwith its latest set of results, it appears that NuSkin might just be realising that ambition.

For the third quarter of 2015, Nu Skin sawsequential revenue growth, with revenue totalling$571.3m compared with $560.2m in Q2. Despitemaking gains in the last quarter, there is nohiding from the fact that the company isunderperforming compared with last year, whenit generated $638.8m in revenue. The companynoted that, although revenue was relatively evenwith the prior year in constant currency, it wasnegatively impacted 10% by foreign currencyfluctuations, while revenue in 2014 was positivelyimpacted by $81m of product launch volume.

The company took another hit this quarterwhen it came to EPS ($0.28), which were

Beauty and personal care behemoth WalgreensBoots Alliance is due to acquire rival drugstorechain Rite Aid.

Headquartered in Pennsylvania, Rite Aid willbecome a wholly-owned subsidiary of WalgreensBoots Alliance and is expected initially tocontinue trading under its existing brand name.However, Walgreens did reveal its intention tointegrate the two companies in the future.

Rite Aid currently operates approximately4,600 stores in 31 states and the District ofColumbia. To complete the deal, Walgreens willacquire all outstanding shares of Rite Aid for $9per share in cash totalling $17.2bn, includingacquired net debt.

Speaking of the new acquisition, WalgreensBoots Alliance’s Executive Vice Chairman and CEO Stefano Pessina said: “Today’sannouncement is another step in WalgreensBoots Alliance’s global development andcontinues our profitable growth strategy. In bothmature and newer markets across the world, ourapproach is to advance and broaden the deliveryof retail health, wellbeing and beauty productsand services.”

Meanwhile, Rite Aid Chairman and CEO John Standley added: “Joining together withWalgreens Boots Alliance will enhance our abilityto meet the health and wellness needs of RiteAid’s customers while also delivering significantvalue to our shareholders.”

As a result of the acquisition, Rite Aidshareholders are due to receive $9 per share incash, a premium of 48% to the closing priceon 26 October 2015.Read more at cosmeticsbusiness.com

“significantly impacted” by several factors, NuSkin admitted. Among these factors was a $37.9mcharge or approximately $0.43 per share, to writedown inventory in China; foreign currencytranslation expenses of roughly $0.13 per share;and a boosted tax rate.

Truman Hunt, President and CEO, focused on the positives, however, and said: “Our businesscontinued to progress sequentially in eachquarter of 2015, with constant-currency revenueimproving in Q3 to be even with the prior year.”

He added: “While we are excited about ourupcoming product introductions and anticipatecontinued improvements in our global business,the Greater China region underperformed in thequarter... We believe the Greater China businesswill benefit by focusing sales leaders on theupcoming launch of our ageLOC Me skin caresystem rather than focusing on discounted productpromotions. These factors resulted in a decisionto take an inventory write-down charge.”Read more at cosmeticsbusiness.com

business

WALGREENS BOOTS ALLIANCEACQUIRES DRUGSTORE RITE AID

NU SKIN MEETS REVENUE GOALS IN Q3 2015


NEWS IN BRIEF

Nu-You Technologies hasfiled lawsuits against sevencompetitors. The companyproduces the NuDred HairSculpting Tool – a devicedesigned to create twists

and dreads. The companiesfacing legal action include:Beauty Town International,Bee Sales Company, Chee-Ping, Eltoweissy et al, DSKCorporation, Dream WorldInc and Jehan Corporation.

Cosmetic Technologies hasbeen sold to Knowlton

Development Corporation(KDC). The deal marks the firstWest-Coast-based acquisitionfor KDC. Cosmetic Techologies

manufactures beauty andpersonal care products. It sells

more than $650m worth ofproducts across eight

manufacturing facilities.

Unilever has launched itsUnilever Foundry programme

in North America. Theplatform connects Unilever

brands with innovative start-ups, giving them access tomentoring from marketingexperts and a chance to

pitch solutions to Unilever.They can also apply for

funding through UnileverVentures. The scheme isalready active in the UK,

Singapore and India.

Altachem NV has been certifiedfor ISO 9001:2008. The

certification demonstrates thecompany’s quality managementfor its “design and development,production and sales of aerosolvalves for one-component andtwo-component polyurethanefoam and viscous products,

foam applicators anddispensing systems”. Altachem

offers the industry’s largestrange of PU foam valves.

Amway has opened a $13mBotanical Research Centre in

Wuxi, China. The companywill use the new facility to

study plants associated withtraditional Chinese medicine

for potential use in futureproducts. The site includes

a laboratory and a largegreenhouse and will be used

to research soil nutrients,plant physiology, extractquality and processes.

A new study has found a link betweencosmetic surgery and heightened feelingsof self-esteem and self-efficacy (havingconfidence in one’s abilities).

The research, published in JAMA FacialPlastic Surgery, investigated the psychosocialprofile of young Chinese women havingcosmetic surgery on their eyelids andnoses. Specifically, the study analysedpatients’ pre-existing psychological traits,motives for surgery and effectiveness ofsurgery on psychological conditions.

Prior to surgery, the self-esteem and self-efficacy levels of the young womenundergoing plastic surgery were found tohave decreased significantly. However, theresults showed that six months aftersurgery, self-esteem and self-efficacy werefound to be at nearly normal levels.

However, the researchers did note thatpatients’ low self-esteem to begin withimpacted their self-assessment andultimately their decision to undergocosmetic surgery, which “may indicate the need for preoperativepsychological intervention”. Readmore at cosmeticsbusiness.com


markets


HALAL COSMETICS SHAKE OFF NICHE IMAGE

A new report by trend-forecaster WGSN has revealed that Halalbeauty products present a huge opportunity for beauty brands.

The report says that there are currently more than 1.7 billionMuslim consumers worldwide. Muslim consumers also make upalmost 30% of the emerging market – a largely untapped area ofgrowth for global brands.

The demand for Halal products is rapidly accelerating and WGSN estimates that it will grow by 50% over the next three years.Providing further insight, Theresa Yee, Senior Beauty Editor atWGSN, told CBN: “Halal beauty is not really a new thing, but there isa huge amount of potential as it’s still a relatively untapped market.”

Yee explained that WGSN has also seen the rise of a newconsumer group – the ‘mipster’ or ‘Muslim hipster’. “We think this issomething that beauty brands should tap into,” she added, noting thatMipsters see themselves as both part of the Muslim and mainstreamcultures, and are looking for brands that do the same.

“The modern Muslim woman is more brand conscious and tech-savvy than ever before. She loves beauty products but isn’t her tocompromise on their faith,” Yee explained.

Brands are already tapping into the trend. Nails Inc recentlyintroduced H2GO – a wash-off nail polish suitable for the Muslimpractice of wudhu. Schwarzkopf’s Gliss Restore & Refresh range is one of the first hair care lines designed with veiledhair in mind. Read more at cosmeticsbusiness.com

A WIDER AUDIENCEWith Halal products often being vegan and vegetarian-friendly, thereis also a wider demographic that these products appeal to. Iba, thefirst Halal beauty brand in India, has revealed that half of its currentcustomers are non-Muslims.

Source: WGSN

50%Non-Muslimcustomers


retail

NARS recently opened its first ever pop-up store at 15Bateman Street in London’s Soho, UK. The store was openfor four days and acted as a celebration of the brand’scollaboration with renowned photographer Steven Klein.

The store hosted make-up consultations with NARSexperts as well as a series of special events. Visitors were given a preview of the NARS x StevenKlein collaboration, which launched in stores on 3 November. A fully equipped working studiospace was also available for industry professionals.

François Nars, Founder and Creative Director of NARS, commented: “Steven is an iconic fashionphotographer. His work defines the rules of photography – it’s arresting and provocative. It pushesboundaries and elicits a reaction. I like that. He perfectly embodies the spirit of NARS.”

Klein added: “I’ve always had the highest regard for François’ work. He is the pioneer of movingfrom being one of the greatest make-up artists to creating great make-up. It is super exciting for meto collaborate using my photographs and joining them with his cosmetic genius.” He added: “Françoishas an amazing understanding of colour and together we were able to create this stunningcollection around my imagery that tied it together beautifully.”

A number of limited edition gift sets were also available in the pop-up store, as well as in thebrand’s Selfridges concession. The sets included a collection of lip pencils, a selection of lipsticksand a mini kabuki brush set.

NEWS IN BRIEF

Texas-based hair care brandMopTop has signed an

agreement with internationaldistributor United NaturalFoods (UNFI) for the Mid-

Atlantic and Northeastregions. UNFI distributes

organic and natural personalcare products through

specialist retail channelsacross the US. MopTop

products are suitable for useon different types of hair.

The brand has also recentlylaunched a new product –

the MopTop Co-WashCleansing Conditioner.

German make-up manufacturerCosnova has signed a deal withsoftware company Relex to help

manage its supply chain. Thecompany has automated its

processes to reduce inventoryand avoid depreciation.

Cosnova produces productsunder the essence brand as

well as Catrice. A quarter of thecompany’s standard productrange is currently replaced

every six months, creating asignificant logistical challenge.

Bennetts for Babies is nowavailable through Ocado.Bennetts Aqueous Bath

Drops, Bennetts Baby BumCréme and Bennetts Baby

Aqueous Cream are allavailable through the retailer.

The brand was previouslyavailable online on theAmazon and Superdrugwebsites as well in large

Morrisons and Asda stores,and some independent

pharmacies. Bennetts forBabies products treat dryskin and eczema and help

prevent and heal nappy rash.

Nordstrom has opened a newstore in Wisconsin, US. The

store is based in Mayfair Malland boasts three storeys and

140,000sqft of shoppingincluding an enhanced beautyexperience. Consumers canbrowse products from NARS,MAC, Bobbi Brown, Lancôme,Clinique, La Mer, Tom Ford andJo Malone London. Nordstromhosted an opening day Beauty

Bash outside the new storeahead of its opening. The first

customers to enter the buildingwere applauded and greeted by

the store’s 400 employees.


Target to ship worldwideTarget will start offering international deliveryfrom its website ahead of Christmas 2015.

The US retailer opened an internationalversion of its website recently and has plans toallow US customers to ship Target orders aroundthe world as gifts.

The new site, intl.target.com, will carry aroundhalf the number of products as the retailer’s mainwebsite. Available stock will include apparel,home products and toys, as well as beautyproducts. Prices will be the same as those listed in the US and will be available in almost 60different currencies.

Markets that can take advantage of the newinternational shipping site include China, India,Canada, Mexico and the European Union. Targethas partnered with Borderfree, a global e-commerce company owned by Pitney Bowes, forthe service. The company offers technology andservices for brands across the world.Read more at cosmeticsbusiness.com

A return to pre-2007 sales levels is predicted forretailers based in London’s West End in the UK.

The New West End Company, which representsmore than 600 businesses operating on OxfordStreet, Bond Street and Regent Street, predicts a1.2% increase in sales during the last six weeks of 2015. The rise would take sales in the regionback to a level not seen since 2007.

The company attributed the rise to Boxing Dayfalling on a weekend and expected that BlackFriday deals would also boost footfall. It predictsthat £2.3bn will be spent in the area over Christmas.

An extra 4,500 members of staff will be hired towork over the festive period to cope with demand.Jace Tyrrell, Deputy Chief Executive at The NewWest End, noted that “the West End made a vitalcontribution to UK GDP in the last year alone.”

However, while spending is set to increase,footfall is expected to drop by 1.5% due toeconomic instability in China and Russia.Read more at cosmeticsbusiness.com

LONDON’S WEST END SET TO HITPRE-RECESSION SALES LEVELS


wonderful smiles. Most people realise that thesmile is the single most important feature thatconveys youth and happiness in a person.

What type of motivation inspires the majorityof your clients to change their appearance?Often, the client has been thinking abouttreatment for some time. When they decide tochange their smile it is one of the most rewardingmoments of their life.

What piece of dental technology has beenmost groundbreaking over the past year?The new dental ceramics are getting better andbetter. Some of the newest we work with lookmore like natural teeth and are much stronger.

Do you work with any cosmetics or dermo-cosmetics brands?The cosmetic creams that I recommend includeZO products and Teosyal products. For follow-updental care I recommend the Philips SonicareDiamondClean and AirFloss as well as the newSensodyne ProNamel whitening toothpaste.

Could brands create any new products thatwould fill any gaps in your aftercare treatment?A combination product with self-tanning, sunprotection and anti-ageing would be great forskin care. For dental care, an electric inter-dentalbrush for between the teeth would be great.

Where do you think the future of aestheticsand cosmetic dentistry lies?The future of aesthetics and cosmetic dentistrylies in the use of increasing technology to pushboundaries of rejuvenation. It is a growingindustry and will get better and better at helpingpeople improve their appearance and feel happierand more confident. Read more at cosmeticsbusiness.com

expert advice

What is your mostpopular aesthetictreatment at the moment?The most popular aesthetictreatment is ‘Baby Botox’,which is using smalleramounts of Botox aroundthe face. I think that clientsare looking for a great rejuvenating treatmentwith a really natural look to it.

What is the most popular cosmetic dentistrytreatment you perform?My clinic offers the full smile makeover, which is our most popular treatment. It is fantastic andreally changes lives, with dramatic changesbetween the before and after photos.

How many clients do you see on average?We are seeing more clients than ever at themoment as there is a real boom in cosmeticdentistry across all ages. There are a lot ofadvanced treatments that other clinics, both NHSand private, do not provide.

What look do clients hope to achieve today? Clients look for a more natural look on thewhole, but this depends on where they comefrom. Americans (and Essex patients) really like a perfect Hollywood smile, whereas Londonpatients prefer a much more natural look. Themost important thing for us is to customise thetreatment for each individual patient.

Do you think the influence of celebrity smilesand facial features is still as prevalent?Celebrity smiles are still very important aspatients are exposed to the media image of

96%

500%

74%

The percentage of people that believe a good smile makes you more attractive

The percentage increase of tooth whitening sales(including at-home products) over the past year

The percentage of people that believe anunattractive smile can hurt chances of success

PUTTING A SMILE ONCONSUMERS’ FACES

More and more consumers are seeking the perfect smile in their questto look as youthful as possible, as Dentist Dr Richard Marques says


Most people realisethat the smile is thesingle most importantfeature that conveysyouth and happiness in a personDr Richard Marques, Dentist,Wimpole Street Dental

“

“

Dr Marques’ most popular treatments:

1 Full smile makeovers2 Teeth whitening3 Invisible braces4 Botox5 Dental implants

TOP FIVE


digital

Makeover app Perfect365 has forged anew partnership with US online beautycompany Sigma Beauty.

With Sigma Beauty primarily retailing online,the partnership will allow consumers to test thebrand’s products virtually before buying.

The Perfect365 app already allows consumersto try on different make-up looks, but they arenow able to try on Sigma Beauty products andbrushes via Sigma Hotstyle, which can be foundin the Everyday category.

Once the user has found a look that they arehappy with, they can buy the products used bytapping the ‘i’ button.

The app, which is created by ArcSoft, uses Face Detection technology that allows users toupload an image of their face, which they canthen select products to be applied to.

ArcSoft Director of Marketing Vickie Wei said:“Perfect365 is the go-to app for selfie and make-up enthusiasts worldwide, and we’re proud toconnect our millions of users with top beautybrands like Sigma Beauty. This collaboration willallow Perfect365 users to fall in love with the

Sigma look using our advanced technology andthen purchase the actual products used to createthis digital makeover.

“There is no doubt that this new interactiveand customised make-up buying experience ischanging the way people will test out andpurchase make-up products for years to come.”

Perfect365 is said to be the most populardigital makeover app worldwide, with more than65 million users and more than 7.7 million usingthe app every day. Read more at cosmeticsbusiness.com

NEWS IN BRIEF

Plum Perfect has released anew version of its app, whichaims to help consumers findproducts to suit them across

different brands. The apphas a number of new features

including the launch ofbeauTV, which provides

make-up tutorials that can becustomised to the consumer.For example, a light-skinned

and dark-skinned womancan both watch the same

video, but the colours will bepersonalised to suit her skintone and ‘beauty signature’.The app is free to download.

Blippar, an image recognitionand augmented reality platform,

has acquired Texas-basedsoftware development company

Binocular. Financial terms of the deal were not disclosed.

Binocular provides augmentedreality and virtual experiencesfor brands and consumers.

Binocular has created apps forbrands including Ray-Ban.

Blippar has also worked with a number of multinational

corporations including P&G.

Elizabeth Arden is promoting the hashtag #AlwaysRed

and #AlwaysRemembered inthe run up to 11 November,

when the UK observes aminute’s silence to rememberthe contribution service men,

women, veterans and theirfamilies make for the nation.The US brand will donate £5

from every Always Redfragrance sold between 11October and 11 November

to The Royal British Legion,helping the charity continueto provide care and support

to service personnel,veterans and their families.

Global smartwatch shipmentsgrew 510%, totalling 6.1 million

units in the third quarter of2015, according to Strategy

Analytics. Apple Watchcontinued to dominate thecategory with 74% market

share, while it shippedapproximately 4.5 million units.

Rival Samsung is thought tohave shipped roughly 0.6

million smartwatches, with 10%market share. Consumers in

North America, Western Europeand Asia drove sales of

smartwatches over this period.


Revlon’s Love Test filmhelps women feel secureBeauty brand Revlon has released a short film thataims to illustrate how a simple daily make-up ritualcan enhance a woman’s emotional state and openher mind to love and romance.

The film, Love Test, was directed by Tatia Pilievaand produced following research carried out withFordham University. The study found that facing amirror, using a favourite fragrance, applying make-up, enjoying a sweet, taking a deep breath, andsmiling at yourself can create a positive change in the way participants view themselves; 97% ofparticipants reported a significant positive change inthemselves after adopting the ritual for one week.

In the film, six couples are introduced on camera.The couples are then separated and asked a fewquestions such as: “What are the first words thatcome to mind to describe your relationship?”,“When was the last time you had sex?”, and “Whatturns you on the most?”. It also asks: “What are youmost insecure about?”. The answers ranged fromthe way they looked to their personality.

The women were then sent home for a week totry a daily beauty ritual with make-up, fragrance,chocolate and a mirror. When they came back infront of the camera, the women were unaware theirpartners were listening in on their answers. Thewomen were asked whether they felt differentlyafter the week was up. Some of the women said theyfelt more empowered and felt like they had beengiven the ability to treat themselves. Others felttheir insecurities had been lessened and liked theway they looked more.Read more at cosmeticsbusiness.com

SIGMA BEAUTY TEAMS UP WITH PERFECT365

Spanish skin care brandNatura Bissé hit the big screen recentlyproviding skin care for the cast ofHollywood blockbuster movie The Martian.

Natura Bissé worked alongside make-upartist Tina Earnshaw to help style the A-listline-up and ensure they were HD ready.

The cast included Matt Damon, JessicaChastain (pictured above), Kate Mara,Kristen Wiig and Sean Bean.

Products used on set included The Cure Sheer Cream (pictured inset),Diamond Drops, C+C Vitamin Cream and avariety of other masks, treatments, creamsand oils. The brand also made use of itsnew Essential Shock Intense Line.Read more at cosmeticsbusiness.com

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Yuni, a Californian beauty brand, has made its debut.Inspired by the teachings and practice of yoga, Yuni’starget market is said to be made up of the 22 million yoga

practitioners in North America.The collection includes products for body, hair and face, as

well as a travel set ($12-$39). Formulations are designed to helpthe body recover after yoga and stay refreshed. For example,Concentrated Body Cleansing Crème contains turmeric andgreen tea to lift away impurities from the skin withoutoverstripping, while Muscle Recovery Gel contains arnica andpeppermint for a anti-inflammatory and cooling benefits.

Created by husband and wife team Emmanuel Rey andSuzanne Dawson, Yuni is thought to be the first brand thatprovides a complete and distinctive offering for yoga consumers.Rey, an Ashtanga yoga teacher, said: “When my wife Suzanneand I were studying to become yoga teachers, we loved the waythat we felt. We would literally ask: how can we enhance andprolong this feeling, and reconnect with it throughout the day?This is what led me to create a new array of experientialproducts, which triggersensorial responses withtextures, therapeuticcooling and warming of the body, and thetransformative,transporting effects ofaromas on psyche as well as body.”Read more atcosmeticsbusiness.com

innovation

SUPPLIER NEWSEYE ON THE GAMEQosmedix has expanded itsversatile collection of falseeyelashes by introducing twoadditional value sets. The newcorner false eyelash value setscontain six pairs of lashes on a white tray with a clear re-closable clamshell. The setsinclude Corner (Part # 513533)and Natural Corner (Part #513532), and are made fromtop quality synthetic hair.Read more atcosmeticsbusiness.com

A COLOUR FIRSTNaturmedicin, a Polishcompany, selected MktgIndustry to create a newbronzing product: SwedermBronzing Stone. The bakedpowder is said to provide asmooth and perfect finish toskin, while providing a light tan.Naturmedicin is primarily adistributor and Swederm is itsfirst brand of its own. Thecompany said it is now lookingfor distributors to work with.

BESPOKE CLOSUREThe Albéa group has gainedrecognition for the packaging itcreated for Guerlain’s ParureGold compact foundation. Theproduct scooped the Formesde Luxe 2015 Award in theMake-Up category. FeaturingAlbéa’s patented Revealmechanism, the case can beopened in one movement andcontains a wide-angle mirror,the powder foundation and a

large sponge. The case itself islacquered and enhanced withmetallic gold edges. It alsofeatures a magnetic closure.

THE LUXE EFFECTFabregasPackagingrecentlyshowcased itspremium boxesdesigned for theCarolina Herrerabrand with PuigSpain at thisyear’s Luxe PackMonaco. Blackboxes house the fourperfume oils in the Pure Oilcollection, while gold boxes areused for the six Confidentialfragrances.Read more atcosmeticsbusiness.com

SLIDING SUCCESSLuxury French skin care brand Patyka selected RPCBramlage’s Slidissime airlessjar to house two of its products.The jar was chosen for Patyka’sIntense Moisturising Mask and Radiant Exfoliating Maskskin care products; it featuresairless pouch technology with a flexible touch and slide pumpmade of four parts.Read more atcosmeticsbusiness.com

YUNI ZONES IN ON YOGATREND WITH NEW RANGE

MARKET FOR TPHP-FREE NAIL POLISHESWIDENS AS STUDY FUELS HEALTH FEARSCosmetics manufacturers could reap rewards in the future if theycan find an efficient way of creating nail polish without triphenylphosphate (TPHP).

It was formerly believed that the plasticiser, a known endocrinedisruptor, was not absorbed by the body. But a new study by DukeUniversity and the Environmental Working Group, has found thatwomen who painted their nails with polishes containing TPHP sawa sevenfold increase of a TPHP metabolite within ten to 14 hours.

“The overwhelming majority of chemicals used in the personalcare and beauty industry have not been tested for safety,” NatalieBauss, CEO of Keeki Pure & Simple, told CBN. “You have to becreative to use the limited ‘known safe’ chemicals but in today’schemical-laden environment we have to make sacrifices to remainsafe. As we slowly begin to test ingredients, chemicals like TPHPare testing potentially unsafe. Unfortunately, this is only the tip ofthe iceberg; to be sure about what we are putting on our bodies, weneed to change the way we screen out products.”

Mark Deason, owner of water-based nail polish brandAcquarella, agrees. “TPHP is unnecessary in a water-based nail polish because we achieve film formingthrough other polymer means,” he told CBN. “Wateras the solvent is the future but unfortunately for thegeneral consumer, the majority of the industry isfirmly planted in the petrochemical solvent base.” Butwater-based polishes are not easy to make, he added.“If it were easy, everyone would be doing it.” Read more at cosmeticsbusiness.com



brands

NEW PRODUCTS1 LEE STAFFORD hasexpanded his line of hair careproducts with a coconut-themedrange. Called CoCo LoCo, theproducts include a shampoo,conditioner, deep treatment anda number of styling productsincluding the CoCo LoCo Blow &Go (£6.99), CoCo LoCo CoconutSpritz (£5.99) and CoCo LoCoCoconut Balm (£6.99). Each ofthe products contains coconutoil, which the brand says helpsto nourish and repair hair, skinand nails. The oil is also rich inlauric acid, which penetrates thehair and reduces protein loss.Launch: out nowRead more atcosmeticsbusiness.com

2 CLINIQUE’s latest skin careinnovation is Superdefense NightRecovery Moisturiser (£42). Theovernight cream is formulated tohelp fight against the early signsof ageing by strengthening theskin’s barrier and stimulatingnatural collagen and elastinproduction. Ingredients includeergothioneine, an antioxidantamino acid; vitamins C and E;

sesame seed and argan kernelextract. Meanwhile, AdvancedBlemish & Wrinkle Reducer (£55)contains encapsulated salicylicacid to drip feed skin throughoutthe day, and glycolic and retinolto accelerate cell turnover.Murad has also launched itsCollagen Support Body Cream(£38) (pictured). The cream iscreated to lock in moisture for 24hours and triple the skin’smoisture levels, according to thebrand. Ingredients includesunflower seed oil, vitamin E andshea butter. It carries a citrusaroma of lemongrass and vetiver.Launch: out nowRead more atcosmeticsbusiness.com

7 ELEMIS is adding to its best-selling Pro-Collagen range with a new serum. The Pro-CollagenSuper Serum Elixir (£49) featuresElemis’ hero ingredient Padinapavonica in a concentrated form.Other ingredients include Africanbirch bark, camelina oil, redseaweed extract, hyaluronic acidand peptides. The effects of theproduct are said to includestrengthening, plumping andsmoothing the skin, deepmoisturisation and ‘filling’ of finelines and wrinkles. Launch: out now

rosemary leaf extract; Chlorellavulgaris; and whey protein,among others. Launch: January

3 PHYTOMER has unveiled anew Christmas Gift Set (£48.25)comprising three of its herofacial products in the run up to the festive season. The setcontains products designed tohelp energise, renew and refinethe skin and its texture. Itcomprises: Expert Youth, NightRecharge Youth EnhancingCream and Vegetal Exfoliant. Launch: out now

4 WHEN, a Korean sheet maskbrand, has launched in the UK.Masks can be bought separately(£7), as a pack of five (£30), or as part of the Special Package(£30), which includes fivedifferent masks. Each maskcaters for a unique skin need.Travelmate is designed for usewhen on-the-go or when skin istired from travelling. Meanwhile,Glamour Base acts as a basebefore make-up application.

Other masks include:10:00pm,The Last Choice and Snow Magic.Launch: out now

5 XXTRALASH has launchedonto the market via distributorsAesthetic Source. A nutrient richmascara, XXtralash (£90) isdesigned to help eyelashes growlonger and stay healthy-looking.Unlike coloured mascara,XXtralash is meant to be appliedto the skin at the base of theeyelashes once or twice a day.The formula contains vitamins,botanical extracts and Prob-Biozyme TriPeptides. Accordingto the brand, users reported upto an 80% increase in eyelashgrowth and density after fourweeks of use every day.Launch: out now Read more atcosmeticsbusiness.com

6 MURAD has rolled out threenew products, adding to its Anti-Aging Blemish Control andCollagen Support ranges. Thefirst two build on the brand’sexisting Anti-Aging BlemishControl range, designed for adultskin that struggles with blemishesor acne. Anti-Aging Moisturizer(£45) contains SPF30 and an OilControl Complex consisting of


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people

MARKWINSINTERNATIONALhas appointed a new Chief FinancialOfficer, LESLIEHERNANDEZ.

Hernandez takeson her new roleafter being

promoted from the position of Senior VicePresident of Finance, a role she has heldsince joining the company three years ago.

Prior to this, Hernandez spent eightyears serving in a similar role for PhysiciansFormula. During this time, she also acted as Corporate Secretary on the Board ofDirectors for a year, a role that resolvedwhen Physicians Formula was acquired byMarkwins International in December 2012.

Hernandez has also previously worked atDeloitte & Touche LLP where she becamea Certified Public Accountant. In total,Hernandez has spent more than 11 years working in cosmetics specifically.

Eric Chen, CEO of Markwins, said: “We are pleased that Leslie has agreed toassume the role of CFO. She has done anincredible job as the Senior Vice Presidentof Finance for Physicians Formula and herstrong leadership, strategic and financialskills make her an ideal CFO for Markwins.Since joining Markwins, Leslie has directlycontributed to countless brand successes forour company and we are excited to have hertake on this new challenge.”

In her new role, Hernandez will continueto be responsible for the management ofcomplex business transactions and strategic

initiatives such as direct communicationswith the Board of Directors, AuditCommittee, Nomination CorporateGovernance and CompensationCommittees, and the reliable reporting of financial results.

Hernandez commented: “MarkwinsInternational is a dynamic organisation andI am honoured to be given this opportunityto work with our talented seniormanagement team as we build upon thecompany’s financial successes to furtherincrease shareholder value.”

Markwins owns a number of cosmeticsand personal care brands includingPhysicians Formula, Bonne Bell, LipSmacker, The Color Workshop, TheColour Institute, Black Radiance and POP.It operates in more than 60 countries.

ON THE MOVE AT... MARKWINS INTERNATIONAL


ARIANA GRANDE has replaced Miley Cyrus as the new spokesperson for MAC VIVA GLAM. The Estée Lauder cosmetics brandannounced the news of Grande’s appointment on social media site Instagram. The new Viva Glam products will include a deep plumshade of lipstick and a pale pink lip gloss. Proceeds from the sale of both products will be donated to the MAC AIDS Fund, whichworks with those affected by HIV and AIDS. The products are due to go on sale in January. The news was announced on a live streamin which Grande commented: “We have a dark plum lipstick to represent the bad girl in you and a light pink lip gloss to represent thegood girl in you, because I think you should be able to play up both sides.” The announcement was met with some surprise afterrumours circulated that Caitlyn Jenner could be the new face of the brand earlier this year. Previous faces for the campaign haveincluded musicians Nicki Minaj, Rihanna and Lil’ Kim, and actress Pamela Anderson. Read more at cosmeticsbusiness.com


what’s trending?


IS CACAY NUT OIL GOING TOBECOME THE NEXT ARGAN?

The word among beauty circles is that a new super-ingredientis about to go mainstream. A host of brands have startedusing cacay nut oil in their products, but could it overtake

argan as the oil of the moment? And what are the cost implicationsfor those that want in on this prize ingredient?

Oils have become one of the beauty industry’s most talked aboutproducts over the last five years. With an extensive range ofbenefits, argan oil in particular has taken the market by storm –but cacay nut oil now looks set to cause some ripples of its own.

Derived from the Amazonian cacay tree, cacay nut oil’s multiple,cross-category benefits give it an edge. Among other benefits, it isknown to naturally contain retinol, a potent antioxidant and richsource of vitamin A. Supply and price implications for brands ischallenging, however. “Harvest of the crops and production of theoil only occurs once per year, so supplies are limited. This couldcreate a challenge for some brands to secure large amounts of theoil,” Alexandra Jansons, Managing Director of Oilixia Skincare,warned. Kelly Partner, Head of New Product Development atBamford Skincare, commented: “Cacay nut oil is currently aroundten times more expensive than argan oil. However, as the marketexpands, it should become more cost effective for brands.” Join the discussion: @cb_beautynews #whatstrending

OVER TO THE PANEL

“Cacay nut oil is a new ingredient to be excited aboutdue to its incredible skin care benefits. It has beenclinically tested to show its effectiveness at improvinghydration, firmness, elasticity and smoothness of theskin, thanks to its high content of retinol, vitamin Eand vitamin F. It also creates opportunities for thelocal Colombian families that harvest the nuts and

provides income to over 200 indigenous families in the region.”Alexandra Jansons, Managing Director of Oilixia Skincare

“Cacay nut oil definitely has the potential to be thenext argan oil. The applications are quite extensive,offering benefits for hair, skin, body and nails – thelist goes on! We continue to look for new andinteresting ingredients at Bamford and always lookto nature to find the answer. This ingredient, on itsskin benefits alone, is likely to become popular.”

Kelly Partner, Head of New Product Development for Body andSkin Care at Bamford

“What’s interesting about cacay nut oil is it containsretinol, which is known to be super effective for skinrepair. It is definitely the new argan oil and ticks allthe right boxes to excite interest in the industry. It israre and exotic, coming from nuts of trees that growin the foothills of the Andes; it has been traditionallyused in skin care; and analysis of its composition

shows just how beneficial its component ingredients are to the skin.”Alice Hart-Davis, Journalist and Founder of Good Things

Oil from the cacay nut, which originates from Colombia, iscropping up on ingredient lists. But what makes it special?

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Documents

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