939 3 Fashion 1st Lecture

7/29/2019 939 3 Fashion 1st Lecture

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FASHION RESEARCH MARKETING

: a er a o pon

[email protected]


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Lessons: wednesda 10.00-13.00 a.m.

wo m screen ng


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Readings: Fashion Forecasting (available at


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Two assessment sessions:

uest ons case stu y


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2 Final ro ect: Make our own forecast

Students

Group written project for the Certificate


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Final ro ect is due November the 30th

:in class


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Do not show u late in class

o your omewor


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Students are re uested to remain in classuntil the end of all the presentations

Those leaving before will be penalized


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WEEK 1 Lesson 1

28/09/2011

10.00-13.00

Course resentation + basic information

Todays fashion scenario: a new paradigm

The social meaning of fashion: the Zeitgeist

Marketing vs fashion marketing

Lesson 2

05/10/2011

. - .

A short story of contemporary fashion, from the 80s to the 2000s

30 dresses that changed the world

ey p ayers n o ay s as on wor


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WEEK 3

12/10/2011

10.00-13.00

Film screening: Valentino, the last emperor

The diffusion of innovation

Anatomy of a trend

The trend forecasters toolbox

Lesson 4

19/10/2011 10.00-13.00

The direction of fashion change

Consumer segmentation & behaviour


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WEEK 5

26/10/2011

10.00-13.00

MID-TERM EXAMINATION

WEEK 6

Lesson 6

02/11/2011

10.00-13.00

Film screening: The September Issue

The role of media in setting trend


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WEEK 7

09/11/2011

10.00-13.00

Presenting a forecast

The scenario planning

The trend funnel

The trend cartogram

Lesson 8

16/11/2011 10.00-13.00

The fashion retail marketplace: formats and concepts

Emerging countries: from the BRIC to


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WEEK 9 Lesson 9

23/11/2011

10.00-13.00+

WEEK 10

30/11/2011

10.00-13.00

Forecasting as a career

Final project delivery

WEEK 11

REVISION WEEK

Final Exam


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If ou want to work in the fashionindustry, you must be able to forecasttrends and make successful predictions

Before oin on the market, ou have tofind out what will be HOT and what will

be NOT


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In terms of: Colours

Textiles

Brands.


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A WIDE PERSPECTIVE: fashion is somuch more than the catwalks

FOR EXPLORING THE WORLD OFAESTHETICSCONSUMER BEHAVIOR

CULTURE


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want to work in the fashion

in ustry:

advantage of the clients


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ANTICIPATING TRENDS

WITH CONSUMER PREFERENCES

FACILITATING THE TIMELY ARRIVAL


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a ng a orecas s one o e mos

IMPORTANT, but in the meantimeac v es, espec a y o ay

as ion usiness as a ways a aVOLATILE nature, but today its facinga more context

WHY ?


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The global ECONOMIC RECESSION

changes the wa eo le buy, choose, shop

, ,stores, which make quite impossible,

,trends

,Eastern Countries face economic boom


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East vs West North vs South

Women vs men

oo vs uncoo

????????


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Fashion used tocome from one

source at a time,

,

the runways, orthe entertainment

us ness. o ay

influences come

from hi h andlow, from

everywhere, from

Target Michael Kors


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meteorologists who

and behavior of

They position

geographic location

these events


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,

Skills about storm behavior erseverance

Little luck

They locate and investigate

t e p enomenon

They transmit their findingso o er me ereo og s s aneventually to the public


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Exactly the same way, forecasters andtren c asers locate the spawningground of trends and use their skill and

know e ge to identify emerging concepts,

all have one thing in common:

AN OPEN MIND


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They travel a lotI make quarterly trips to London, Paris and

, ,director at DuPont

I browse flea markets in London and

research color in the ScandinavianCountries, Katryin Novakovic, GM CottonIncor orated


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for designers, advertising agencies,, ,

retail chains and apparel brands -

variations on the word forecaster:

from manager of trend merchandising,,

backgrounds are varied


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The importance of thinking

want to buy in a future selling season:

the world, including economics, politics,,

of celebrities, the Red Carpets, the tv

ow t ese events, peop e an con itionswill affect fashion business?


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The importance of thinking

DONT BE POSH

ATTITUDE AT HOME!!!!


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allow you to get a correct perspective

You can end u b forecastin the

success of products that will remainon the sale racks, causin losses andeven business closures for producers,

manufacturers and retailers


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Donatella Versace

You cant live in an ivory toweran ma e as on, or anyt ng art st c.You have to live in the real world.


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I want to be informed, know everything, seeeveryt ng, rea a .You mix all that, then forget about it

.


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..


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for people who immerse themselves in, ,

useful sources of information, which

Forecastin is not ma ic racticed b atalented few with a gift of seeing the

future


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that can be understood,practiced and applied by

introduced to the tools


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Forecasters pluck emerging trends out

sensitive to

DIRECTIONAL SIGNALS


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THE SOCIAL MEANING OF FASHION

Fashion is what you adopt when you dont know who you are


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,attachment or treatment that

e nes our appearance A Social and ersonal behavior A cultural universe


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A dress sends messages

These messages allow others to form an

idea about you

To hold certain expectations that can

i i hi i h h


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We dress in order to:

co the cultural ideal/deliberatel oagainst it

h -

We increase our sense of belonging to the


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We usually dress to cloak ourselves in the

situation

en ress s appropr a e or a s ua on,individuals tend to feel more confident andcompe en . e reverse s a so rue


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ersona ity Roles

Status

*For a dress to be a language, there must be


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few seconds, include judgments andassessments of the individual includin

personality, social roles and status

Stereotypes: we assume that a group of

traits automatically go along with oneattr ute


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Does this guy looklike someone who

would establishtrends in highfashion?

Do we expect adifferent clothinbehavior?


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as on: w e y popu arexpression in apparel,omes, ar , mus c

How does fashion differfrom style? Style = an items

characteristics: crew orv neck sweater; it may bein or out of fashion.

D-Squared


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times in which it is created

and worn


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ZEITGEISTis A German word for THE

individuals in large numbers choose among

connect with the spirit of the times


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This collective selection forms a precious

industry and the consumer

BUT THERES A BIG PROBLEM.


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The problem, in terms of forecasting, is

that this conce t offers little advancewarning

Only fast fashion firms those set up,

of months - are able to capitalize on


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To work in the haute couture fashionbusiness ou need to understand what

will be trendy

TWO YEARS IN ADVANCE


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FASHION FORECASTING


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. Study market conditions

u y ow e

behaviour is influenced by society,,

Research sales statitics to establish salesren s


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2. WATCH

Evaluate o ular desi ner collections to

find fashions (colors, silhouettes,fabrications len hts... that su estsnew directions or trends


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Observe what celebrities are wearing


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Take notes when you see common people


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wear ng some ng eren or n eres ng


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3. LEARN

Bu and collect fashion ma azines, catalo s anddesign brochures from around the world

Surf the web constantly

Keep up with current events: art, design, food,anything that could be a source of inspiration

Travel, as much as you can


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FASHION MARKETING


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Once youve collected all the informations

ou need on the market and our otentialcustomer, you have to plan how topromote the product you want to launch

You must coordinate all elements so thatthe prospective consumer is not being sent

mixed messa es that can cause confusion.


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the same message?


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BEFORE

The 4 Ps of marketing: (Philip Kotler,

1 Product: what we are selling

Placement/place: where are we selling thepro uc

Promotion: pr, advertising, popcommunication

But also


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The 5 Ps of marketing

Price: positioning Placement place: where are we selling the

product

Promotion: pr, advertising, popcommunication Personal Selling: all the pre and post

sale activities we use to su ort thecustomer

TODAY


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A new economic an mar eting scenario Do not forget or cancel what we set

before. Some concepts/ideas are basic:

Product: it must have a ood ualit bedifferent, satisfy a precise need

understandable

available for your actual and potential

Promotion: integrated forms ofcommun ca on are v a


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The NEW 4 Ps of marketin : (PhiliKotler, 2003)

PEOPLE

PLANS PROJECTS

PEOPLE


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The new marketinglooks at the targetby considering

every person inrelation tosomeone else

Virtuall or reall

individual, its

NIKE


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Red: project developed

support the race

You buy a pair of redaces an you ma e adonation

You can take a picture,

,on the wall, close to

You show participation


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Its where ideas, emotions, moments take

You live an interactive, aesthetic,mu sensory exper ence

You make a full immersion in the brand


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PLANS

o more


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o morelifestyles

Focus on

thinkstyles Try tounderstand

peoplesdeeconcernings,

valuesthoughts


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PROJECTS


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Set a meaningful relation with the customer :ask his/her opinion, design a CUSTOMIZEDpro uc

Involve him/her in the project

Bui wit im a consuming project

www.threadless.com


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Design your own t-s r


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Pro ose it to thecommunity

700 newproposa s wee

4/6 new models/week

Price: 9 to 18$

2010 turnover: 50 mln$


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You have to read the bibles of fashion

But also take a look at which is the most

renowned magazine in the country you are

wor ng w


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FILMS & TV SERIES

A reat source of ins iration Trend setters: styles, costumes,

Social phenomenon


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Sex & The City


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e y ney or va a ermo


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ersey ore


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ersey ore


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WEBSITES

Just surf the Netbut dont miss

www.wgsn.com

www.fashiontrendsetter.com

www.fashioninformation.com

www.theblondesalad.com. .

http://www.thestylerookie.com/

. .


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Trend setters

y es, cos umes, oca ons


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The ZEITGEIST FRAMEWORK


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goo orecaster s ou mon tor somefactors, because there are some precise

the Spirit of the times

Those factors, on a second level, guide and

FASHION


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eywor :

as ion is somet ing popular in t e present,

or a set of trends that have beenacce e y a w e au ence

.


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On January the 21st, 2008, 450 bln $were gone on the Stock Exchange

The United States and consequently therest of the world faced a eavy state o

recession: Su -prime inancing crisis Unemployment rate Financial scandals Slowness of consum tion

Bernard Madoff is a formerAmerican stock broker,investment adviser, non-executivechairman of the NASDAQ stock


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chairman of the NASDAQ stockmar e .

, ,March 2009 he pleaded guilty to11 federal crimes.

The amount missing from clientaccoun s, nc u ng a r ca egains, was almost $65 bln.

On June 29, 2009, he wassentenced to 150 ears inprison, the maximum allowed.


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Unresolved conflicts


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Unresolved conflicts

Emer in (or re-emer in )nationalism

Lack of freedom


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.


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Environmental issues

uman ar an ssues Freedom and democracy Equality of men and women


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.


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,leadership positions ose w o are v s e o e

mainstream population Basicly, the trend setters


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LEADERS/ARTISTS/THINKERS/HEROES

LEADERS: WAEL GHONIM Over the past few

Spokesman for a revolutionyears, Wae , 30,

began workingoutside the box


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to make his peersunderstand thatonl theirunstoppablepeople power

change. He quickly

grasped that,

notably Facebook,were emerging as

t e most power ucommunicationtools to mobilizeand develop ideas.

ARTISTS: LADY GAGA

She turns pop music into performance art


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THINKERS: JULIAN ASSANGE

Secrets will never be safe again


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For connecting more than half a billion people and,

new system of exchanging information and for changing

how we live our lives

New categories: sports players


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New categories: sports players (II)


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.but not only: THE WAGS


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New categories: politiciansand First Ladies


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New categories: The Royals.


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and their relatives


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New categories: deejays


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400.000 euros for a private set, 17 millions of singles sold, 21millions fans on Facebook

New categories: reality show tv stars


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.

When the desire for DIFFERENTIATION is the, ,


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changes are REVOLUTIONARY

When SOCIAL CONFORMITY and IMITATION isthe dominant attitude, FASHION INNOVATION

, t e c anges are

Write down one na e or each cate or and

tell me WHO according to you is the BEST


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tell me WHO, according to you, is the BESTINTERPRETER of the ZEITGEIST (The Spirit

of the times) in:

Haute couture ashion

Art Books

On Wednesday, be ready to motivate youranswers in front of the class

Documents

939 3 Fashion 1st Lecture