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W I N E T R A V E L F O O D®
YEAR 21 N. 92 - JANUARY 2016
EXTREMEWINES
2
JANUARY 2016
a tav
ola
january2016
COVER STORY28 | Extreme winesDuring festive meals, there’s nothing better than opening heroic bottles, the products of extreme
WINE40 | Best Buys Lombardy 2016
in Lombardy is varied, complex, and above all rich
Bonarda, Riesling, Lugana, Chiaretto
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JANUARY 2016
3
TRAVEL52 | Valtellina. Terrace above the world
cheeses – Bitto and Casera above all – and cured
Nebbiolo
FOOD50 | Early Extravergine…olive oil at its best
63 | Recipes from Great Chefs
embrace their Valtellina, a land of great products
NEWS & MORE 4 | Editorial 6 | News10 | Events14 | Italians abroad 18 | Wine of the month Langhe Nebbiolo ’13 Cortese19 | Twitter dixit22 | Design Bottle Carriers24 | Pairing Lab Lombardy26 | Foodies
«...Happiness like a fine wine, should be savoured
sip by sip....»Ludwig Feuerbach, philosopher
(1804-1872)
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52 40
EDITORIAL
After an overdose of end-of-year cheer and resolu-tions, let’s start with a good glass of wine and some notes about a delightful book. Un ethnologue au bistrot, Ethnologist at the bistrot, is by Marc Auge, a French writer who introduced the concept of non-place, “the ambivalent space that has none of the familiar at-tributes of place - for in-stance, it incites no sense of belonging”, spaces in which there is no identity, rela-tionship or history to give it sense. This could describe some soulless wines, those made by winemakers work-ing too many estates, but also those that are artisanal but evidently defective, and don’t manage to express or
of Auge’s book thrust us into the colorful bistrots of Paris, those of Simenon’s Maigret. While we read, we were reminded of many Italian osterie and the cast of characters that turn up, ex-hunters and hosts with a ready wit, a marvelous theater of life. We all may become photographers, tasters and critics, but we go to these places, which Auge loves dearly, for a
THE BISTROTWAY OF LIFE
simple reason: to feel good. We go to exchange gestures, renew rituals, tell stories. In too many restaurants we eat well, but never feel completely relaxed, especially over long evenings. Instead, visiting Italian osterie, especially those in the south, we
-ly Mediterranean, just like the aroma of violets in sangiovese. European laws will have a hard time dealing with these hours. “A people that gives itself time to have lunch (many bistrots, despite the crisis, are packed full at lunchtime!) and that doesn’t resist the interminable discussions that arise among outdoor tables, is a romantic people that doesn’t live looking backwards, but is always wait-ing for tomorrow,” Auge writes.
are open to life and to contact. These are the ideal places to drink wine, here’s always possible to start a conversation. We feel at the same time at home and elsewhere. Time slows down. We talk about wine, food, travel, friends. And we never want to leave these tables. The bistrot is a theater of life.
Lorenzo Ruggeri
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JANUARY 2016
6
JANUARY 2016
NEWS
An investment of eight million euros is planned for the 50th anniversary of Vinitaly, according to
Maurizio Danese. “Activi-ties aimed at strengthen-ing the fair business,” he underlined, “are the pri-ority of the new adminis-trative council.” Vinitaly, moreover, is part of the Extraordinary Promotion Plan for the international-ization of Made in Italy announced by the Italian gov-ernment. It will be an important contribution alongside the European Union resources of OCM Vino (Organiz-
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will be strengthened, and for or-
operators will be sustained in markets such as Northern Europe,
-elux. The objective is to bring in 800 more selected buyers, besides those that traditionally visit Vi-nitaly.” Among the other innova-tions planned for the 2016 edition (April 10-13) will be the new In-ternational Five Star Wines Prize, presented by Ian D’Agata, scien-
-ternational Academy, which will give an impetus to mar-keting. Today, Vinitaly is part of a network that includes Vinitaly International, OperaWine, Vinitaly Wine Club, VIA - Vinitaly International Academy, wine2wine, Sol&Agrifood, Enolitech, and the prizes each offers.
Too much salt is bad for you.The war on sodium starts in New York
50 times Vinitaly: 8 MILLION EUROS OF INVESTMENT AND1000S MORE BUYERS. THE NEW FACE OF VINITALY
Call it the salt war, the epic battle against the exces-sive use of salt that began at the end of 2015 in New York City. Restaurant chains with at least 15 locations in the United States are obliged to indicate items that have a sodium content
-late soda size and encouraging the posting of calories on menus, New York is once again leading with an initiative to protect the health of consumers. All the new regula-tions principally affect fast food chains. An icon of a salt
shaker inside the classic danger triangle is positioned next to items with sodium content that exceeds the 2.3 gram recommended limit. The message is meant to help prevent or reduce cardiovascular disorders and high blood pres-
favored policies that would address obesity through food
new rules will only begin in March, many of the responses are positive. McDonald’s denies any wrongdoing, but oth-
have already eliminated some products and are committed to reducing the overall salt content of their menu items. On all sides, the hope is that the war on salt will bring
23.9% of the adult population suffers from high blood
protesting the imposition of the salt warnings.
JANUARY 2016
7
Too much salt is bad for you.The war on sodium starts in New York Napa Valley: the first American
Certification Mark for wineJust as Europe is concerned with defending its own ap-pellations around the world, especially in places where the concept doesn’t even exist, Napa Valley in Califor-
-
-cultural Area has been accepted for registration in this way, and it was a long and laborious process. Since 1981, the AVA designation has stated that wine from an AVA must have at least 85% of its grapes grown within
tried to use the Napa Valley name for products from
wines from the most famous American winegrowing area from fraudulent and improper use of its mark. A system of appellations such as those in Italy and France does not exist in the United States.
-
525 producers from the region, had to provide more than 50 written agreements from wine businesses that use the word Napa to show they complied with AVA regulations.
-sociation has already obtained protected status for the
-pean Union, India, Israel, New Zealand, Norway, Tai-wan, Thailand and Turkey. This new step offers hope for appellation protection on a global level, especially for European producers who are often exposed to unfair labeling practices outside the continent itself.
8
JANUARY 2016
NEWS
Anyone who saw the American
told the story of cookbook writer and television personality Julia Child, remembers the demanding cooking lessons she took at Le Cor-
-came a chain with over 50 schools (franchises) around the world. Child herself made the institution iconic,
in North America are closing. Janu-ary 4, 2016 will be the last day for registration in the school. The ex-
as a sous chef.’ And I say, ‘No, you have to start at the bottom like anyone else!’”.
Cordon Bleu COOKING SCHOOL will close its American branches
2016WORLDTOUR
trebicchieri Vini d’Italia
2016
JANUARY
18 STOCKHOLM Vini d’Italia
19 OSLO Vini d’Italia
25 MUNICH trebicchieri
FEBRUARY
04 CHICAGO trebicchieri
09 NEW YORK trebicchieri
11 SAN FRANCISCO trebicchieri
16 SEATTLE Top Italian Wines Roadshow
MARCH
03 LONDON trebicchieri Special Edition
12 DÜSSELDORF trebicchieri
21 SYDNEY Gambero Rosso Signature
APRIL
04 SAÕ PAULO Top Italian Wines Roadshow
16 DUBAI Top Italian Wines Roadshow Special Edition
17-19 DUBAI Top Italian Food & Beverage Experience
20 ABU DHABI Top Italian Food & Beverage Experience
23-24 PALM SPRINGS Gambero Rosso & Vino Veritas Special edition
MAY
15 -16 SINGAPORE Top Italian Food & Beverage Experience
16 SINGAPORE Top Italian Wines Roadshow
18 BANGKOK Top Italian Wines Roadshow
20 MANILA Top Italian Wines Roadshow
25 HONG KONG Gambero Rosso Top Italian Wines & Spirits Special Edition for VinExpo26 -27 TOKYO Top Italian Food & Beverage Experience
27 TOKYO Vini d'Italia
JUNE
02-04 MOSCOW Top Italian Food & Beverage Experience
06 TORONTO trebicchieri
06-07 TORONTO Top Italian Food & Beverage Experience
10 VANCOUVER trebicchieri
10-11 VANCOUVER Top Italian Food & Beverage Experience
SEPTEMBER
LOS ANGELES Top Italian Food & Beverage Experience
DALLAS Top Italian Wines Roadshow
OCTOBER
25 ZURICH Vini d’Italia
27 WARSAW Vini d’Italia
NOVEMBER
02 TOKYO trebicchieri
04 BEIJING trebicchieri
07 SHANGHAI trebicchieri
09 HONG KONG trebicchieri
18 MOSCOW trebicchieri
SPECIAL EVENTPRESENTATION GUIDE
Vini d’Italia
SPECIAL EVENTPRESENTATION GUIDE
Vini d’Italia
INFO: www.gamberorosso.it/international [email protected]
On December 11, the United Na-tions Conference on Climate Change, COP 21, completed its work. Viticul-ture, too, must face the climate chang-es taking place. Many producing
and modifying their ways of making wine. In Australia, besides harvest-ing about eight days earlier than tra-ditionally, growers are moving south, towards Tasmania. It is predicted that average temperatures in the principal Australian wine regions will rise be-tween .3 and 1.7 degrees centigrade before 2030. Treasury Wine Estates, the largest winegrowers in the world,
Tasmania. Similar actions are occur-ring elsewhere. In Italy, as in France and other producing countries in the Mediterranean area, growers are be-ginning to move their vineyards to higher altitudes, studying varieties that seem resistant to the effects of climate change. The climate situation favors, however, the colder zones of
and the French regions of Cham-pagne and Val de Loire, although
of these wines. The OIV - Organisa-tion Internationale de la Vigne et du Vin - participates in a project called
alimentare e climatica” (Terrain for food and climate safety) presented in Paris on December 1, a plan which aims to attain an annual increase of 4/1000 of soil carbon storage. This result could be essential in limiting the increase of global temperatures to 1.5 or at the most 2 degrees centigrade. In other environmental news. the Co-mité Champagne has announced that thanks to work begun in the 1980s, in
the world to calculate its own carbon footprint. Today, 100% of Cham-pagne growers are integrated into this process.
COP 21: the world’s winegrowers’ response to climate change
2016WORLDTOUR
trebicchieri Vini d’Italia
2016
JANUARY
18 STOCKHOLM Vini d’Italia
19 OSLO Vini d’Italia
25 MUNICH trebicchieri
FEBRUARY
04 CHICAGO trebicchieri
09 NEW YORK trebicchieri
11 SAN FRANCISCO trebicchieri
16 SEATTLE Top Italian Wines Roadshow
MARCH
03 LONDON trebicchieri Special Edition
12 DÜSSELDORF trebicchieri
21 SYDNEY Gambero Rosso Signature
APRIL
04 SAÕ PAULO Top Italian Wines Roadshow
16 DUBAI Top Italian Wines Roadshow Special Edition
17-19 DUBAI Top Italian Food & Beverage Experience
20 ABU DHABI Top Italian Food & Beverage Experience
23-24 PALM SPRINGS Gambero Rosso & Vino Veritas Special edition
MAY
15 -16 SINGAPORE Top Italian Food & Beverage Experience
16 SINGAPORE Top Italian Wines Roadshow
18 BANGKOK Top Italian Wines Roadshow
20 MANILA Top Italian Wines Roadshow
25 HONG KONG Gambero Rosso Top Italian Wines & Spirits Special Edition for VinExpo26 -27 TOKYO Top Italian Food & Beverage Experience
27 TOKYO Vini d'Italia
JUNE
02-04 MOSCOW Top Italian Food & Beverage Experience
06 TORONTO trebicchieri
06-07 TORONTO Top Italian Food & Beverage Experience
10 VANCOUVER trebicchieri
10-11 VANCOUVER Top Italian Food & Beverage Experience
SEPTEMBER
LOS ANGELES Top Italian Food & Beverage Experience
DALLAS Top Italian Wines Roadshow
OCTOBER
25 ZURICH Vini d’Italia
27 WARSAW Vini d’Italia
NOVEMBER
02 TOKYO trebicchieri
04 BEIJING trebicchieri
07 SHANGHAI trebicchieri
09 HONG KONG trebicchieri
18 MOSCOW trebicchieri
SPECIAL EVENTPRESENTATION GUIDE
Vini d’Italia
SPECIAL EVENTPRESENTATION GUIDE
Vini d’Italia
INFO: www.gamberorosso.it/international [email protected]
JANUARY 2016
10
Even polar temperatures in Sweden during the coldest week of this bizarre winter couldn’t stop the Gambero Rosso World Tour. The new season of international events took off in Stockholm, in the Grand Hotel. In this period of the year, the sun doesn’t ever rise completely. Light and atmosphere make the prolonged dawn
Baltic Sea, while inside, thirty producers led a dynamic and par-ticipatory tasting for a large number of importers, journalists, and restaurateurs. The city is lively from the wine and food point of view. “In the last two or three years, many wine bars have opened, with each one specialized in a type of label, a niche. Wine lists have grown a great deal, both in terms of choices and depths of vintage years,” pointed out blogger Johan Thunberg. Among the wine bars (Erik Vinbar, The Burgundy, etc) 19 Glas deserves special mention.It is a delightful bistrot specialized in wines from small winer-ies inspired by the natural wine movement. Frank Cornelissen
restaurants, Gro specializes in vegetarian cuisine, has a wonder-fully matched wine list, and the classic Sturehof boasts a cellar that offers great depth of vintage years, whether guests are look-ing for Brovia or Conterno or the great French classics. Prices at
in the Gulf of Bothnia, which, although it is a sea, has fresh wa-
by Lorenzo Ruggeri
EVENTS
GREAT ITALIAN REDS WARM SCANDINAVIA
oslostoccolma
DECEMBER 2015
11
ter. Unique for its consistency and
toasted black bread, butter and chopped red onion.Back to the many questions and
wines tasted, we noticed a gradual shift. It’s true that wines with struc-ture and concentration, like Ama-rone and Primitivo, still have great appeal. When the temperatures outside are 12° below zero centi-grade, the desire for a cool glass of pigato fades. What’s called for is a wine that works like a warm blan-ket, enveloping, with good alco-
something that works with the in-tensity of local cooking where even
sauces. But we found enthusiasm and curiosity about new variet-ies, from gaglioppo to nero buono di Cori, from dolcetto to nerello mascalese. Systembolaget, the state
monopoly, is pushing hard to re-view and amplify its wine portfolio, welcoming a range of styles that would have been unthinkable a few years ago. The same is true for Vinimopolet, the Norwegian retail monopoly. On January 19, less than 12 hours after the stop in Sweden, Vini d’Italia
Architecture, inside a splendidly renovated factory. The market-place – and we’re talking about a
smaller, but very attentive to qual-ity. Price is not the crucial factor. This is the country with the highest per capita income in Europe, with
the seminars, fully booked here too, several elements came out. Many journalists were pleasantly surprised by the styles of the wines selected. ‘Clean’ and ‘elegant’ with
the most frequently heard adjec-tives. “The style of Barone Pizzini’s Franciacorta impressed me, along with Castello di Bolgheri and Pas-sito di Pantelleria Ben Ryé (vintage 2013). It has more balanced sweet-ness and greater freshness than in other years. Italy is on the right track,” commented journalist Rog-er Kolbu. Umberto Valle, owner of Poggio Trevvalle, which pro-
di Scansano, said, “I’m convinced that I made great contacts both in Stockholm and Oslo. I think I’ll be imported very soon. People here are getting used to a fragrant fruity style, to drinkability – essential wines without frills.” On January 25, it will be Munich’s turn, with 100 Tre Bicchieri winer-ies joining in. After that, Gambero
North America.
JANUARY 2016
12
Falanghina from the Sannio zone was one of the great revelations of our tastings for the Gambero Rosso Vini d’Italia guide. A denomination that is developing enor-mously in qualitative terms, its presence on Italian and international markets is growing. Another pleasant sur-prise is that great wines are coming from the Sannio at
WHITE WINE 2016: FALANGHINA DEL SANNIO event that Gambero Rosso will hold in the wonderful set-ting of the terrace of Cibo South Beach in Miami, on February 2. One of the most marvelous features of fa-langhina is its wonderful ability to pair well with a wide variety of foods. It is a versatile wine, aromatically intense
the favorite wines of Julius Caesar and the Roman em-perors, is extraordinarily well-suited to drink with the world cuisine found at its best in Miami. It’s fantastic with sushi, with enchiladas and tacos, or with spaghetti and clams. It is majestic with arroz y pollo or Thai curry.
wine. We are looking forward to seeing you on February 2 in Miami and sharing with you the wonderful world of Falanghina del Sannio. More than 20 producers will be on hand to offer food and wine lovers their best versions of this up-trending wine of the year.
EVENTS
WHITE WINE 2016: FALANGHINA DEL SANNIO
miami
SA
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E D
AT
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RSVP [email protected] mccuecommunications.com ph (213) 985-1011
Tuesday February 2nd
Presented by
Program
Masterclass 07.00 – 08.00 pm
Wine Tasting 08.00 – 11.00 pm
MIAMI
200 South Pointe Dr, Miami BeachCIBO Restaurant
WHITE WINE 2016
FALANGHINA DEL SANNIO
CAMPAIGN FINANCED
PURSUANT EC REGULATION
NUMBER 1308/13
SA
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AT
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RSVP [email protected] mccuecommunications.com ph (213) 985-1011
Tuesday February 2nd
Presented by
Program
Masterclass 07.00 – 08.00 pm
Wine Tasting 08.00 – 11.00 pm
MIAMI
200 South Pointe Dr, Miami BeachCIBO Restaurant
WHITE WINE 2016
FALANGHINA DEL SANNIO
CAMPAIGN FINANCED
PURSUANT EC REGULATION
NUMBER 1308/13
Family traditionssince 5 generations
Via Costabella, 9 - 37011 Bardolino (VR) Lago di Garda - Tel. +39 045 7210022 - zeni.it
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JANUARY 2016
ITALIANS ABROAD
An Italian chef who cooks Japanese food in the United Arab Emir-ates. It sounds like the beginning of a fable, a surreal literary inven-tion. But the reality is a wonderful story of our times. The protago-nist - an incurable traveler, Mario Fico. Today he is head chef at the Zuma Abu Dhabi restaurant, after working at the Zuma in Dubai. The chain is an international Japanese colossus created by German chef Rainer Becker. Although he left Italy many years ago, Ma-
of day or night, my house was imbued with the aromas of home cooking, from the Sunday stew that my mother religiously prepared starting in the early hours of the day to the bread and cookies my grandmother regularly baked. My home was, and still is, a cathe-
in Puglia, in southern Italy, Fico set out to seek new experiences and tastes around the world. He studied in the University of West
him to miso, sake and chopsticks. Mario then moved with the chain to New York to direct a brigade of talented chefs, on to Australia
For the elegant and welcoming environment of the Dubai Zuma,
Mario Fico: The Road to Abu Dhabi
by Stefania Annese
Mario Fico: The Road to Abu Dhabi
top quality ingredients and furnishes his clients with unique sensory ex-
Japanese culinary world out of curi-osity and a desire to know about an ancient gastronomic tradition,” said
purity and respect behind this cuci-na. Even the tools, such as the sushi knife, are devotedly cared for, and the plates themselves are composed of natural elements like sand or stone, showing how much respect there is for ingredients and for every food.
At the same time, Zuma is known for avant-garde Japanese cooking, authentic but not totally traditional. In this elegant atmosphere, interior design is thought out down to the smallest detail. Mario recommend-ed we try his Miso Marinated Black
for three days, then cooked with sake and mirin, baked with hoba leaves that enhance aroma, and served with ginger root, miso sauce,
wasabi and fresh lime. The prepa-ration time is long, and the dish is
Sashimi of all kinds was sublime.
tradition and research,” Mario went on.”It must be prepared in the cor-rect manner and served with freshly grated fresh wasabi to offer an array
on the menu anymore.” But like all great chefs who are passionate about culinary matters, Mario wants to
and intensify the ones he knows.
insane and overwhelming passion, years of joy, hard work and satis-
never stop traveling. Travel makes us more alive and aware of the re-ality of our planet. The art of the kitchen has helped me achieve many
a conclusion yet. The voyage is long,
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JANUARY 2016
TASTING
There is an up-scale neighborhood in Rome that tourists seldom see, hidden between the Trieste and Parioli quarters. The Coppedè dis-trict is an extraordinary set of build-ings designed by architect Gino Coppedè between 1913 and 1927 in a unique style that combines Art Nouveau, medieval, Baroque and ancient Greek. Among the villas and
A corner of South Africa in the center of Rome
arches of the complex is the South African embassy. We’re telling you about it because it isn’t just any em-bassy. Thanks to the work of Ambas-sador Nomatemba Tambo, it is one of the most active in promoting its country’s enologic heritage with din-ners, tastings and seminars. These diplomats have understood that hav-ing an impact on the Italian social fabric can be effectively achieved through food and wine. The occa-sion of the tasting in question was
African Wine Club, with pairings prepared by South African chef Sa-cha Kingston and Italian chef Luca Vaccaro.In the classic subdivision between producers of the New and Old Worlds, South Africa usually comes
by Lorenzo Ruggeri
Wine history that goes back 350 years is a witness to a long tradition that involves voyages and emigra-tion such as those of the Huguenots. The key date is 1659, when Jan van Riebeeck, a Dutch doctor for the Dutch East India Company, settled
vines. Today the South African wine
JANUARY 2016
17
A corner of South Africa in the center of Rome
HERE ARE THE WINES TASTED THAT EVENING
Viognier Reserve 2014 DiemersfonteinWe begin in Wellington, a ward (the equivalent of the Italian denominazi-one d’origine) of Paarl, a coastal wine region surrounded by mountains. It is one of the warmest zones of South African viticulture, with very hot summers and cold winters. The soil is predominantly clayey. This viog-nier was rich and fragrant, with grape maturation purposely late. A nose of apricot and orange peel. The palate is full and assertive with a residue of sugars and a background of toasted almond that comes from 30% of the
passage 300-liter French barrels. This is a ample and juicy white, perfect for light meats.
Sauvignon Blanc 21 Gables 2013 SpierA winery that has been writing history since 1692. The grapes come from Tyberberg hills, where the climate is cool and daily temperature excursions make it ideal for aromatic varieties. Selection is only from the best lots,
three months of aging on its lees, a practice that is becoming more com-mon for whites in Italy, with excellent results, as in South Africa. Aromas are marked, but not pungent, rang-ing from tropical fruit to a more subtle grassy note, to tea and white pepper. The palate is guided by acidity with average body and a well-modulated,
Pinot Noir 2012 Meerlust
-lometers from the Indian Ocean, in the heart of Stellenbosch, the east-ern zone of Cape Town, surrounded
-terranean climate. The winery was founded in 1756, and today is run by
the eighth generation of winemakers. The soil is rich in clay, granite gravel, sandstone. This Pinot Noir is subject to partial green harvesting and ag-
rich in fruit but well-sustained by a noteworthy savory tone, with inci-sive hints of peppery and spicy notes. Praiseworthy management of differ-ent woods.
Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2011 Jordan ChameleonHere we are looking at a decidedly more concentrated wine and tannic character in a blend of cabernet sau-vignon (48%), merlot (43%) and syr-ah (9%). A juicy red, it has dark spices still evident, licorice, sweet tobacco, but also slight earthy notes. The pal-ate is full, with a tannic texture that is still very rigid and calls for more time, but extraction is not excessive and time in the bottle will give it the right equilibrium. Slight iron note on the
and it is certainly not the usual Bor-deaux blend from the New World. 20 months of barrique. Takes patience.
Pinotage 2012 ArabellaWe close with a young winery, which in 2007 took over an historic prop-erty that had belonged to the De Wet family since 1860. This is the region of Robertsons, a more internal zone. The variety is indigenous par excel-lence, a cross of pinot noir and cin-sault carried out by the University of Stellenbosch in 1925. A delicately herbaceous tone, notes of pepper and dark fruit, a juicy but slightly statis
industry gives work to about 300,000 people thanks to almost 100,000 hectares of vineyard, about evenly divided between white (54.6%) and red grapes (45.4%). Chenin – we recently tasted a parade of old vin-tages that were truly exceptional – and Cabernet Sauvignon are the most common varieties. Production increases rapidly: in 2014 it reached 958.8 million liters (in 2006 it was 628.5 million). One more number: the annual per-capita consumption in the country is about 9.5 liters, which means South Africans drink about as much wine as North Ameri-
products we tasted have centuries of family history behind them. The de-nominations of origin system dates back only to 1973, about ten years after it was established in Italy.
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JANUARY 2016
An electrifying Langhe Nebbiolo Langhe Nebbiolo ’13 Cortese6,000 bottlesex-cellar price: 13.40 euros
Work in the vineyard and the winery may be the same as ever, but only a very distracted viewer could ignore the Cortese family‘s de-cisive gear shift in their offerings in recent vintage years. Led by Giuseppe and Rossel-la, along with their son Piercarlo, the winery has developed its entire range of labels, from Dolcetto to Barbera to their grand versions of Barbaresco. The Cortese‘s eight hect-ares of vineyard are within the Rabajà cru and on the slope contiguous with Trifolera. Their wines are striking for their unexpected feminine, light touch, attained through ag-ing in large and middle-sized barrels of both Slavonian and French oak.The 2013 is an exceptional version of Langhe Nebbiolo,
lists, since tasting it left us wanting more. It displayed luminous color and bouquet in a nervous and electrifying wine that stimulates the taste buds in an enthralling way with its energy and natural expressiveness. Triggers wild salivation but without hardness on the
-vors of a steak tartare softened by a pat of
of Cantabrico anchovies.
WINE OF THE MONTH
JANUARY 2016
19
TWITTER dixit
WineTrailAdventuresLife motto
Grape Growers of OntEvery empty bottle
Nicolette
Waterford
James Kasprzyk
WineTrailAdventures
Robert M Parker, Jr
James Suckling
wineristWine &
Robert M Parker, Jr
Tim Atkin
Campagna finanziata ai sensi del regolamento CE N. 1308/2013Campaign funded under EC regulation No. 1308/2013
#Custoza #italian #whitewine
www.vinocustoza.it
Custoza_WG.indd 1 15/01/16 15:01
Campagna finanziata ai sensi del regolamento CE N. 1308/2013Campaign funded under EC regulation No. 1308/2013
#Custoza #italian #whitewine
www.vinocustoza.it
Custoza_WG.indd 1 15/01/16 15:01
DESIGN
Winter temperatures encourage conviviality and time indoors with friends and family. After accepting an invitation to dinner, we usually bring a present, per-haps a good bottle of wine to taste together. But ap-pearances play a part, and to avoid showing up with a naked bottle in hand, or a plastic bag, modern de-sign has found ways to dress up our gift. Innovation and materials with low environmental impact are the key words for these functional Italian creations, reus-able and pleasing to the eye. Behind the Made in Italy products are small and large companies, where co-operation has become fundamental for successful ex-porting. The team of Vassalliassociati + Moredesign is a collective of ten designers from various sectors that work together to interpret the needs of their custom-ers. Vassalliassociati + Moredesign created Wine Up Series, packaging organized for the Averli brand, of-fering creative and convenient solutions for transport-ing wine. Sport Wagon, for example has six compart-
bottles of different shapes so that the wine is protect-ed. When not in use, Sport Wagon folds up neatly and can be carried anywhere. Boxter is part of the same line and can transport three bottles. Monoposto is de-signed for one. Civico 13 is a multi-disciplinary design studio in Tori-no, staffed by a group of architects. Projects are devel-oped through different approaches, and each result is
SNAZZYBOTTLE-CARRIERS
VINSTRIP
WINE UP
VIN VIN
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JANUARY 2016
both functional and clever. Civico 12 designed Vin Vin, two identical bottle carriers joined by a handle. Each can hold two bottles. Made of polypropylene, the carriers are virtually indestructible and can be used over and over. Another feature is its stability: Vin Vin can stand by itself on the ground without tipping.Vinstrip, made in Verona, is a crushable bottle carrier that transforms into a woven net bag, designed to hold and transport wine easily. Strong and soft, it is available in many colors and sizes, ranging from small ones for a bottle of water to Double, which can hold two wine bottles.
It would make a delightful gift.#PKGSP | Packaging Specialist has a vast range of
-ized containers. On its web site, it offers amusing and sturdy bags, boxes and containers of all sorts. Ales-sandro Mason, after working for a leader in the pro-duction of shopping bags, in 2005 founded Talento
Business Development, specialized in consulting for shoppers and packaging producers. A passion for design led to a second company, the Packag-
ing Specialist, which offers a range of paper and cardboard, plastic and fabric con-
tainers that can be personalized with logos and colors.
Clean lines and simple geo-metric forms are the special-
ty of Deom, a workshop in Volta Mantovana with a dynamic and young team that aims to satisfy any requirement for packag-ing and showing off a product. Prices are low for memorable, imagina-tive packages suitable for
any occasion, completely recyclable and appealing. Yet again, Italian design amazes us.
Stefania Annese
SPORT WAGON
SPORT WAGON
PACKAGING
BOTTLE CARRIER BY DEOM
JANUARY 2016
23
LUGANA
Tortelli di zucca
Pizzoccheri
alla valtellinese
FRANCIACORTA EXTRA BRUT
VALTELLINA SUPERIORE
drawings by Chiara Buosi
Risotto
alla milanese
24
JANUARY 2016
PAIRING DO AS THE LOMBARDS DO
Ossobuco
con polenta
Cotoletta
alla milanese
Gorgonzolastravecchio
OP BONARDA VIVACE
OP PINOT NERO M. CL.
MOSCATO DI SCANZO
JANUARY 2016
25
DO AS THE LOMBARDS DO
Fort Bard. A few kilometers before the entrance to the Vallée is Caves Cooperatives Donnas, in a town with an ancient grapegrowing tradition. Nebbiolo and freisa have always been cultivated here, as well as erbaluce and pinot gris. At one time, the indigenous prié blanc was common, a wine that was consumed on August 1, for the feast day of San Pietro in Vincoli, Saint Peter in Chains. Ussel Castle. Built in 1343 by Ebalo II of Chal-lant, it is set on a rocky promontory above Dora Baltea river, overlooking Chatillon. To reach it, you pass by Verrès and Arnad, the site of Kiuva,
the region forty years ago. All the vineyards are located at an altitude of between 400 and 500 meters. They include antique varieties that, after years of abandonment, are slowly recovering.
LA VALLÉE. A tour of the castles that punctuate the mountains and valleys, visiting splendid wineries that work with indigenous grapes and achieve stunning results
AOSTA. CASTLESAND COOPERATIVES
FOODIES
CROTTA DI VEGNERON
26
JANUARY 2016
Fenis Castle. With no natural defenses, this castle combines the characteristics of a fort with those of an elegant residence. It stands on a grassy
-neron, a winery that focuses on its territory and indigenous varieties such as cornalin. Aymavilles Castle. At the entrance to the road that leads to Cogne, this castle is recognizable for its four towers and elegant structure. After passing it, continuing on the SR47 brings you to Onze Communes, a cooperative that collects the grapes from vineyards in 11 municipalities (comuni). All the red wines are from local grapes, such as the celebrated Torrette, based on petit rouge, or Fu-
Saint Pierre and Sarriod de la Tour. Two castles rise inside the village of Saint Pierre. Leav-ing them behind you, and driving along SS26, you arrive at the Inferno…or rather, the organ-ic vineyards of the Cooperative Vini Co-Enfer. They grow in a natural amphitheater with a southern exposure and a very warm climate, an ‘inferno’ despite the 800-meter altitude. Besides local wines, Eau di l’Enfer is made here, a distilled spirit from monovarietal petit rouge, aged in bar-rique.
with the collaboration of Arabella Pezza
ADDRESSES DONNAS CAVES COOPERATIVES DONNAS via Roma, 97 tel. 0125 807096 www.donnasvini.it
ARNAD COOPERATIVA LA KIUVA fraz. Pied de Ville, 42 tel. 0125 966351 www.lakiuva.it
CHAMBAVE CROTTA DI VEGNERON p.zza Roncas, 2 tel. 0166 46670 www.lacrotta.it
AYMAVILLES ONZE COMMUNES loc. Urbains, 14 tel. 0165 902912 www.caveonzecommunes.it
ARVIER COOPÉRATIVE DE L’ENFERvia C. Gex, 65 www.coenfer.it
FENIS CASTLE
FORT BARDSARRIOD DE LA TOUR
JANUARY 2016
27
A TA S T E C A L L E D M AD E I N S I C I LY.
A n d i t i s w i t h g r e a t p r i d e t h a t t h e Co n s o r t i u m CAMB R I A p r e s e n t s t h e r e s u l t o f M a g n i f i c e n c e : M a s t r o n i c o l a N o c e r a . T h e w i n e h a s g o t t h e c h a rm o f a n Empe r o r, r e a d y t o c o n q u e r t h e f u t u r e .T h i s p r e c i o u s j ewe l o f d i s t i n g u i s h e d f i n e s s e , o b t a i n e d f r om a n a d v a n c e d v i n i f i c a t i o n p r o c e s s a n d a c a r e f u l a g e i n g p h a s e i n b a r r i q u e s , w i l l t o u c h y o u w i t h i t s u n i q u e n e s s , i t s s o f t n e s s , i t s a u t h e n t i c i t y a n d f o r i t s u nm i s t a k a b l e a n d p e r s i s t e n t a r oma . T h e c omme n d a b l e o r g a n o l e p t i c a n d t a s t e q u a l i t y o f t h e g r a p e s a n dt h e r i g o r o f t h e v i n i f i c a t i o n , , a l l owed t h e Ma s t r o n i c o l a h a s b e e n awa r d e d b e twee n “ TO P H U ND R E D 2 0 1 2 ” ,t h e b e s t w i n e s o f I t a l y .
T h e Co n s o r t i u m C . A . M . B . R . I . A . b o r n i n S i c i l y , n owada y s i s a w i n e s p i n n e r e t , w h i c h p r omo t e d a n d a d v e r t i s e d i t s f i n a l p r o d u c t s .T h e Co n s o r t i u m , amba s s a d o r o f t h e " M a d e i n S i c i l y " i s r e a d yt o g e t t h e ma i n r o l e o f t h e mo s t i m p o r t a n t n a t i o n a l p r o d u c e r so f w i n e s .T h e p r o d u c e d w i n e s a r e b o r n u p o n t h e Fu r n a r i h i l l s , i n t h e h e a r t o f t h e Mame r t i n o D o c a r e a , e x a c t l y o n t h e s l o p e s o ft h e T i n d a r i N e b r o d i m o u n t a i n s , 4 5 km we s t o f M e s s i n a .
T h e y a r e Pr o t e c t e d Geog r a p h i c a l I n d i c a t i o n a n d D e n om i n a t i o n o f P r o t e c t e d O r i g i n w i n e s , amo n g w h i c h we f i n d l o c a l v a r i e t i e s l i k e N o c e r a , N e r o d ’ A v o l a , N e r e l l o M a s c a l e s e ; t h e r e a r e a l s o sma l l q u a n t i t i e s o f w h i t e g r a p e s , a ‘ s h i n y ’ C a t a r r a t t o , I n z o l i a , G r e c a n i c o , G r i l l o a n d o t h e r q u a n t i t i e s o f n o n - t r a d i t i o n a l g r a p e v a r i e t i e s l i k e S y r a h a n d C h a r d o n n a y i n a t e r r i t o r y t h a h a s a n a t u r a l a n d e x t r a o r d i n a r y p e d o c l i m a t i c c o n d i t i o n , a r i g h t e x p o s u r e t o w i n d s a si t f a c e s n o r t h a n d i s p r o t e c t e d f r om t h e T i n d a r i - N e b r o d i m o u n t a i n s ; t h i s r e p r e s e n t s t h e i d e a l c o n d i t i o n t o e n s u r e t h e e q u i l i b r a t e d g r ow t h o f v i n e s , a s we l l a s o l i v e s .I t p r omo t e s g o o d ma t u r a t i o n o f t h e g r a p e s r i c h i n a r oma a n d i n t e r e s t i n g g r a d a t i o n .
Furnari (Messina) Italy
www.consorziocambria. i t info@consorziocambria. i t
ADIM
MAGIN
E:it
A TA S T E C A L L E D M AD E I N S I C I LY.
A n d i t i s w i t h g r e a t p r i d e t h a t t h e Co n s o r t i u m CAMB R I A p r e s e n t s t h e r e s u l t o f M a g n i f i c e n c e : M a s t r o n i c o l a N o c e r a . T h e w i n e h a s g o t t h e c h a rm o f a n Empe r o r, r e a d y t o c o n q u e r t h e f u t u r e .T h i s p r e c i o u s j ewe l o f d i s t i n g u i s h e d f i n e s s e , o b t a i n e d f r om a n a d v a n c e d v i n i f i c a t i o n p r o c e s s a n d a c a r e f u l a g e i n g p h a s e i n b a r r i q u e s , w i l l t o u c h y o u w i t h i t s u n i q u e n e s s , i t s s o f t n e s s , i t s a u t h e n t i c i t y a n d f o r i t s u nm i s t a k a b l e a n d p e r s i s t e n t a r oma . T h e c omme n d a b l e o r g a n o l e p t i c a n d t a s t e q u a l i t y o f t h e g r a p e s a n dt h e r i g o r o f t h e v i n i f i c a t i o n , , a l l owed t h e Ma s t r o n i c o l a h a s b e e n awa r d e d b e twee n “ TO P H U ND R E D 2 0 1 2 ” ,t h e b e s t w i n e s o f I t a l y .
T h e Co n s o r t i u m C . A . M . B . R . I . A . b o r n i n S i c i l y , n owada y s i s a w i n e s p i n n e r e t , w h i c h p r omo t e d a n d a d v e r t i s e d i t s f i n a l p r o d u c t s .T h e Co n s o r t i u m , amba s s a d o r o f t h e " M a d e i n S i c i l y " i s r e a d yt o g e t t h e ma i n r o l e o f t h e mo s t i m p o r t a n t n a t i o n a l p r o d u c e r so f w i n e s .T h e p r o d u c e d w i n e s a r e b o r n u p o n t h e Fu r n a r i h i l l s , i n t h e h e a r t o f t h e Mame r t i n o D o c a r e a , e x a c t l y o n t h e s l o p e s o ft h e T i n d a r i N e b r o d i m o u n t a i n s , 4 5 km we s t o f M e s s i n a .
T h e y a r e Pr o t e c t e d Geog r a p h i c a l I n d i c a t i o n a n d D e n om i n a t i o n o f P r o t e c t e d O r i g i n w i n e s , amo n g w h i c h we f i n d l o c a l v a r i e t i e s l i k e N o c e r a , N e r o d ’ A v o l a , N e r e l l o M a s c a l e s e ; t h e r e a r e a l s o sma l l q u a n t i t i e s o f w h i t e g r a p e s , a ‘ s h i n y ’ C a t a r r a t t o , I n z o l i a , G r e c a n i c o , G r i l l o a n d o t h e r q u a n t i t i e s o f n o n - t r a d i t i o n a l g r a p e v a r i e t i e s l i k e S y r a h a n d C h a r d o n n a y i n a t e r r i t o r y t h a h a s a n a t u r a l a n d e x t r a o r d i n a r y p e d o c l i m a t i c c o n d i t i o n , a r i g h t e x p o s u r e t o w i n d s a si t f a c e s n o r t h a n d i s p r o t e c t e d f r om t h e T i n d a r i - N e b r o d i m o u n t a i n s ; t h i s r e p r e s e n t s t h e i d e a l c o n d i t i o n t o e n s u r e t h e e q u i l i b r a t e d g r ow t h o f v i n e s , a s we l l a s o l i v e s .I t p r omo t e s g o o d ma t u r a t i o n o f t h e g r a p e s r i c h i n a r oma a n d i n t e r e s t i n g g r a d a t i o n .
Furnari (Messina) Italy
www.consorziocambria. i t info@consorziocambria. i t
ADIM
MAGIN
E:it
by Gianni Fabrizio, William Pregentelli and Lorenzo Ruggeri
COVER STORY
EXTREME WINES
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JANUARY 2016
EXTREME WINES
The only place in the world where inconvenient vine-yards are still
cared for is Europe. Ev-erywhere else, they have been abandoned, or never attended to. In-convenient because of their altitude or their steep slopes, these prop-erties are hard to reach
to include in one cate-gory mountain, terraced or steep vineyards and even windswept ones on Mediterranean or Atlan-tic islands.This is all viticulture that, a little pompously, has been called heroic. In contrast, vineyards in the New World run, in general, in long and monotonous strips on
-tage of their important ally, mechanization.The reasons for the exis-tence in Europe of these challenging, hard-to-maintain rows of grapes are deeply rooted in our past. Wine has always been part of the meal in the Old World. Not so long ago, transport-ing goods was unsafe and costly, so near every farm, families planted the few vines necessary for their own wine. They couldn’t pay much attention to
with the vines’ position. In Italy, after the arrival of parasitic diseases and phylloxera, at the end of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th,
During festive meals, there’s nothing betterthan opening heroic bottles, the productsof extreme viticulture, of passion and sacrifice. Mountain wines, in harmony with the winter season, are labels with strong identitiesand warm hearts
JANUARY 2016
29
were abandoned, little by little. But people care about their own tradi-tions, and sometimes the unmatchable qual-ity of the wines meant that numerous crus sur-vived despite the logic of economic returns.
glass, the results attained in certain wine-growing areas considered mar-ginal demonstrate how the pride and stubborn-ness of these extreme growers have given us a truly unique heritage. From mountainous areas such as Valle d’Aosta, the Pinerolese, Val Susa, Valtellina, Val di Cem-bra, Val Venosta, Valle Isarco, Irpinia, Etna and Barbagia come some of
-bels. Other zones with terraced or particularly steep vineyards, such as Dolceaqua, Cinque Terre, Colli di Luni, the Sorrentine Peninsula or
also compete with the best national and inter-national production.All the grapegrowing zones just mentioned, along with others not cit-ed, have microclimates and soil that confer ab-solutely unique aromas
certainly not reproduc-
vineyards. Wines such as Fumin, Carema, Rossese di Dolceacqua, Sforza-to, Trento Brut, Sylva-
ner from Valle Isarco,
Bianco, Etna Bianco or Rosso, Cannonau di Mamoiada are splen-did products of Italian
unique products such as these in other European
of the greatness of a Riesling of the Moselle or Wachau, of a Petite Arvine from the Valais, a
Leman, Collioure or Banyuls from the French Roussillon district, Prio-rat or Moscatel di Lan-zarote from the Canary Islands, a vintage Port or an old Madeira, even
-torini: we have entered the realm of supreme wine. Centuries of labor and sweat allowed hu-mans to carve out space on the mountains and domesticate the steepest hills through ingenious systems of dry walls, in-dispensable for terraced cultivation.
necessary to the produc-tion of these pearls of enology, also protected the landscape, prevent-ing the soil from slipping into the valley, avoid-ing at the same time the dispersion of water and resulting desertification. Human efforts contrib-uted to the fame and charm of these wine ar-eas and eventually led to the growth of premium tourism.
COVER STORY
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JANUARY 2016
CERVIM, A COMPETITION FOR EXTREME LABELSKeeping a mountainous agricultural landscape healthy calls for enormous economic investment that tourism and the sale of wine sometimes can’t man-age to adequately reward. Since 1987, besides their own force of will or per-sonal determination (qualities that have always distinguished them), heroic winegrowers have been able to count on the help of Cervim (Centre for the Research, Study, Protection, Co-ordination and Advancement of Mountain Viticulture.). This international organization, founded under the auspices of OIV (Organizzazione internazionale della vigna e del vino) aims at protecting viticulture in extreme zones: vineyard sites at altitudes over 500 meters (1600 feet), vines planted on slopes greater than 30% or on terraces or embank-
1991, Cervim has been organizing the International Mountain Wine Competi-tion with the aim of promoting wines produced in mountain areas or in areas
whether they are aromatic, slender mountain whites or powerful, saline is-land whites. This year the awards were presented during the Vins Extrêmes event at Forte di Bard, in the presence of (among others) Stefano Celi ( presi-dent of VIVAL-Viticoltori della Valle d’Aosta, and Roberto Gaudio, president of Cervim. The 23rd edition of the competition gave awards to 191 wines, with 4 grand gold medals, 62 gold medals and 125 silver medals. Thirteen spe-cial awards were given, chosen from the 602 wines presented by 218 wineries.
Dolceacqua 2014 | Maixei | Dolceacqua (IM) | www.maixei.it
-radi and Pasquale Restuccio, is doing
grapegrowers who, in Val Nervia and in Valle Crosia, in the Imperia province, cultivate vineyards on steep slopes sup-ported by dry walls, called in local dialect
maixei. A precise choice
line in recent years. They focus on Dolceac-qua, an important, aris-tocratic Ligurian red wine. The 2014 version demonstrates immedi-acy and intensity, with notes of ripe red fruit. Extreme elegance and fullness depend on tight tannins and good acid-
-ant and very persistent..
Valle d’Aosta
Valle d’Aosta Pinot Gris 2014 | Cave Gargantua | Gressan (AO) |cavegargantua.com
Agricole Régional, but for two years he has been able to give free rein to his passion for the soil, inherited from his grandfather, Pierino. He began with a few parcels in Gressan to which he add-ed a few rows of vines in Morgex. Today, Laurent turns out almost 12,000 bottles.
-duced in the vil-lage of Chevrot at almost 800 meters above sea level. The nose is generous and in-tense, with great notes of ripe pear, pineapple and fresh butter. On the palate, good acidic ten-sion is rendered fuller and fatter
THE TASTINGS
Liguria
Colli di Luni Vermentino Solaris 2014 | La Baia del Sole | Ortonovo (SP) | fraz. Antica Luni | www.cantinefederici.comIn Ortonovo, near the ruins of the an-tique, imperious white city of Luni, the Federic family cultivates about 12 hect-ares of vineyard. The family-owned busi-ness is expanding, gathering indigenous grapes from about 60 growers - vermen-tino, albarola, malvasia, sangiovese, ca-naiolo and ciliegiolo – as well as interna-tional varieties such as merlot and syrah.
Vermentino Solaris ’14 was an ex-citing wine, with a rich nose of me-dicinal herbs and a coun-terpoint of
of acacia and elderberry. In the mouth, it
of great impact.
Cinque Terre 2014 | Samuele Heydi Bonanini | Riomaggiore (SP) | www.possa.it
of the splendid Cinque Terre is laid out on terraces and dry walls poised above
on the challenging hills of Riomaggiore, one of the pearls of the Cinque Terre.
and the care involved in its production, you can’t properly appreciate the wine of this territory, above all in a vintage year as complex and rainy as 2014. Nevertheless,
even this year, with an inviting color of golden straw yellow and typical sensa-tions of salti-ness, citrus fruit rind and ripe fruit. The palate is full and rich in extracts. It is a wine of great character.
JANUARY 2016
31
by the contribution of a stay in barrique, where a small part of the initial must fer-ments and ages for some months.
Valle d’Aosta Pinot Noir 2013 | Elio Ottin | Aosta | www.ottinvini.itThe winery led by Elio Ottin, although still not ten years old, is already seen as one of the most prestigious in the re-gion. From four hectares of property in Porossan, a village right near Aosta itself, the winery obtains 30,000 bottles annually, subdivided among the various traditional wines of the region. One of the best Pinot Noir varieties in the zone grows at almost 600 meters above sea
level in a vine-yard character-ized by tall trellis-es. A wonderfully complex red, it displays red ber-ry and spicy aromas, then a full-bodied pal-ate with tannins that are already fairly soft.
Valle d’Aosta Syrah 2013 | Rosset Terroir | Quart (AO) | www.rosseterroir.comNicola Rosset’s winery, founded in 2001, represents a sort of return to his
grow, but the primary occupation of the owner is his St Roch distillery. From his
few labels, among which Syrah stands out. The vineyard is still relatively young. At 750 meters above sea level, it produces almost 4,000 bottles of a red that exults in fresh fruit and spice
gives immediate plea-sure.
Valle d’Aosta Fumin Ten Perdu 2010 | Didier Gerbelle |Aymavilles (AO) | [email protected] Didier Gerbelle is used to getting start-ed early. When he was six years old, he helped his grandfather Emiro in the vine-yard, learning to prune the vines. At 20, in
-ing prodigy of the Valle d’Aosta inter-venes as little as possible in vineyard and cellars, leaving the wine the time it needs
slightly overripe. After maceration that can last over two months, it is aged in barriques for three years. The 2010 has complex aromas of spices
tannic weave, and
A red that prom-ises longevity.
Piedmont
Pinerolese Ramìe 2013 | Coutandin | Perosa Argentina (TO) | [email protected]
the province of Torino, the Val Susa and the Pinerolese zone rarely come to mind. Yet a bottle of Ramìe from the Coutan-din family is a true example of an heroic label. The wine is made by blending the grapes from two vineyards located at 700
meters above sea level, the steeply terraced Poma-retto in Valle Ger-manasca and the Perosa Argentina in Val Chisone. This red has a strong mountain
on the nose, with
offers fascinating dry sensations.
Valtellina Sup. Valgella Cà Moréi 2013 | Sandro Fay | Teglio (SO) | [email protected] is one of the Valtellina’s most interesting subzones. In 1973, Sandro Fay founded the family winery, today well-run by his son Marco. Through constant care for old vineyards and choosing to move production to higher
fragrance and freshness. The delicious,
and aromas of red fruit, hints of pepper and salt air. An imposing pal-ate, smooth tannins and a long, velvety
-plete the pic-ture.
Valtellina Sup. Dirupi Ris. 2012 | Dirupi | Montagna in Valtellina (SO) | www.dirupi.comWe can’t mention Dirupi’s Valtellina Superiore Riserva ’12 without first mentioning the “Blues Brothers” of Valtellina wine, Birba and Faso, that is, Pierpaolo di Franco and Davide Fa-solini. In a few years, they gave shape and substance to old vineyards clinging
breeze of energy and optimism along with crystalline talent. Elegant, airy, delicious, energetic and inviting, this
Riserva ’12 displays amazing natural ex-pressiveness. It em-bodies the essence of the territory with its elegant aromas of raspberries and wild strawberries, shades of tobacco and lico-rice, and a fine, juicy and crisp palate with a very long finish.
COVER STORY
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Trentino
Trentino Müller-Thurgau 2014 | Zanotelli | Cembra (TN) | www.zanotelliwines.comOn the steep, sunny hills of Val di Cembra, one of the most romantic zones of the Trentino region, the Zanotelli family has been tirelessly
Harvesting grapes full of character, -
ly mountain-style. Grown using the pergola Trentino method, the vines
for this Müller-Thurgau thrive between 500 and 800 meters above sea level. Light notes of sage punctuate a fruity aromatic nose that ranges from peach to golden delicious apple. Persistent sapidity and man-
-rial nature.
Veneto
L’Altro Manzoni 2014 | Cantine Lavis | Lavis (TN) | www.la-vis.comOver a thousand determined members of this cooperative preside over the vine-
this winery is one of the best interpret-ers of Trentino wines. High-altitude vi-ticulture on the terraces of the Valle di Cembra leads to wines that display fresh, fragrant, brilliant traits in all the win-
particular. Grown on terrain that is rich in porphyry, its nose ranges from white
the fruity sensations.
Valdobbiadene Brut Col Credas ’14 | Adami | Vidor (TV) | www.adamispumanti.itFor more than 1,000 years, the towers of Credazzo have witnessed the relation-
and these unforgiving hills. Along the Farra di Soligo, the vineyards cling more and more, thrusting their roots into clay soil that gives acidic tension to the wine. The Adami fam-ily’s property lies along the woods, with century-old trees alternating with others a few years old, in an un-usual, original mo-saic. They turn out a Valdobbiadene
JANUARY 2016
33
and great expressive force on the palate.
Alto Adige
Alto Adige Valle Isarco Sylvaner Alte Reben ’14 | Pacherhof - Andreas Huber| Varna/Vahrn (BZ) | www.pacherhof.comThe Isarco valley threads its narrow way north, surrounded by steep slopes, closed
cling to the mountain walls. The Huber family is among the pioneers of viticul-ture in this zone, and the Sylvaner Alte Reben is their top product. The vine-
yard, at more than 600 meters above sea level, is on soil rich in sand and gravel. More than forty years old, its grapes give a white with deep, articulated aromas that lead into a rich and savory palate of great length.
Alto Adige Valle Isarco Grüner Veltliner ’13 | Garlider - Christian Kerschbaumer | Velturno/Feldthurns (BZ) | www.garlider.itChristian Kerschbaumer is one of the most talented winegrowers in the Bol-zano province. His vineyard covers a handful of hectares at altitudes that lie between 550 and 800 meters. Produc-tion is dedicated almost entirely to white-berried grapes, especially the precious grüner veltliner, the originally Austrian
variety that has found an important habitat in Valle Isarco. The vineyards, oriented south and southeast with slopes that can exceed 55%, allow this white to express depth and sulphur sensations on the nose. Solid and assertive in the mouth.
Tuscany
Ansonaco del Giglio 2013 Altura | Francesco Carfagna | Isola del Giglio (GR) | loc. Mulinaccio | [email protected] Carfagna’s vineyards grow
His winery, Altura, extends for four hect-ares, prevalently dedicated to ansonaco, the white grape of the island of Gi-glio. Steep, arduous vineyards, vines set among the surrounding Mediterranean brush, ad alberello, bush-trained culti-
vines led Francesco to an intense, golden wine, with chromatic complexity that
COVER STORY
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JANUARY 2016
www.gamberorosso.it
comes not from maceration but from
tribute to the island of Giglio: fragrances of mastic tree, myrtle, ripe plum, broom and mint.
Lazio
Biancolella Faro della Guardia 2014 | Casale del Giglio | Latina | loc. Le Ferriere | www.casaledelgiglio.itCertainly the province of Latina, the headquarters of Casale del Giglio,
-treme viticulture. But the purchase of an historic winery on the island of Ponza, to vinify the biancolella variety of the sur-rounding vineyards, brought this Lazio
From the small island in the Tyrrhenian
sea comes Faro della Guardia, monova-rietal biancolella with a marine charac-
ter and a s w e e t l y fruity nose that in the mouth re-veals its a s s e r t i ve, savory, and v o l c a n i c nature.
Campania
Ischia Biancolella Tenuta Frassitelli 2014 | D’Ambra Vini d’Ischia | Ischia -Forio (NA) | www.dambra-vini.comThe heroic viticulture label doesn’t only
grower active since 1888, besides culti-vating vineyards on terraces with slopes
that even exceed 60%, in 1995 launched an experimental plot to try restoring Ischia’s indigenous patrimony, grapes such as guarnaccia and guarnaccello, coda cavallo, streppa rossa and many others. Tenuta Frassitelli ’14, the winery
displays brilliant fruit and an unmis-
nature. It offers a fresh citrus fruit tone and a palate that is still a little rigid but rich in en-ergy and acidic thrust.
Costa d’Amalfi Furore Bianco Fiorduva 2014 | Marisa Cuomo | Furore (SA) | www.marisacuomo.com
Coast that lies above the sea on a hill created by the Schiato river. Here,
where rare varieties grow, such as fe-nile, ripoli, pepella, tintore or sciascino-
AN INDISPENSABLE TOOL FOR FOODIESBUT EVEN MORE SO FOR INDUSTRY INSIDERS
PROMOTING THE BEST OF MADE-IN-ITALY WORLDWIDE
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COVER STORY
so. The wines manage to embody and present in the glass energy and character that are exquisitely Mediterranean. If
to the world, it’s due to the constant
Ferraioli, who today are helped by their children Raffaele and Dora. Fiorduva
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had during the tastings for our guide, in which we noted a wine that was more agile than in other versions, char-acterized by a long and fresh
of toasted al-mond and an-ise.
Sicily
Etna Bianco Superiore 2014 | Barone di Villagrande | Milo (CT) | www.villagrande.itAmong the historic producers of the Etna zone, one of the few who were not ruined by phylloxera and the economic crisis be-tween the two world wars, Carlo Nicolosi Asmundo is the heir of a business founded by his ancestors in Milo in 1727. He was behind the establishment of Etna de-
concrete act in the rebirth of viticulture around the volcano. His son Marco heads
the winery today and has invested heavily both in vineyard and cellars, with the ob-jective of
producing more technically up-to-date wines, tied to both territory and tradition. Etna Bianco Superiore ’14, made from
on the nose, savory, vibrant and persistent on the palate.
Malvasia delle Lipari Passito 2013 | Caravaglio | Salina - Malfa (ME) | [email protected] profoundly agricultural soul of the
Island of Salina reveals itself in Antonino Cara-
his wines as well as his cultivation of capers. An agronomist from a family of farm-ers, Nino dedi-cates himself to
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Malvasia and Passito. He has eighteen hectares of vineyards at Lingua, Malfa and Valdichiesa, and more than two hectares in Lipari. Corinto nero is almost a relic, a variety which has always been in the dried grape wines of the Aeolian islands. The grape grows near the sea and up to 400 meters above it, a seesaw of altitudes that means harvesting at dif-ferent times. The wine shows this in the glass, never composed or too sweet, but taut and mineral. Classic notes of honey, apricots, citrus fruit zest, but also cut grass and saline tones.
Passito di Pantelleria 2010 | Ferrandes | Pantelleria (TP) | www.passitodipantelleriaferrandes.com
its history, added an agricultural practice of viticulture to its prestigious intangible cultural heritage of humanity roster. The honor fell to the head-trained bush vines
most prestigious sweet wines of Italy. Fer-randes grows almost two hectares, sub-divided into different plots, on sandy soil prepared in the classic dug-out hollows that protect the vines from the marine winds. The resulting dried-grape wine,
besides the usual notes of candied yellow fruit and rai-sins, preserves a fresh, savory note that ren-ders it complex and intriguing.
Sardinia
Cannonau di Sardegna Franzisca Riserva 2012 | Giovanni Montisci | Mamoiada (NU) |
www.barrosu.itIn the
of his life, Giovanni Mont i s c i was a me-c h a n i c , but fortunately, later on he fell passion-ately in love with winegrowing. After about 15 years of studying the secrets of vineyards and cellars jealously guarded by old grapegrowers, in 2004 he began
-moiada, from Cannonau ad alberello vineyards over 80 years old, the winery
The nose of plum, myrtle and resin ex-presses its origin in barbaricina grapes, while the palate is characterized by the
alcohol.
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bere
bene
Lombardy
BERE BENE: BEST BUYS
by Francesco Beghiand Lorenzo Ruggeri
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The picture that emerged from our wine tast-ings is varied, complex and above all rich in af-fordable labels. The Oltrepò Pavese zone reveals the many souls of its extended terroir: Riesling and Bonarda lead the wines of this fragmented and divided territory, but it seems that Pinot Nero Metodo Classico has also helped the re-
-expressed for too long. The Lugana DOC zone has given us interesting wines, and in previous editions we recognized notable improvements, thanks to technical and agricultural develop-ments sought by producers in recent years. The wine has had international success, above all in Germany. To complete the regional picture, we have to include mention of the Mantuan area,
JANUARY 2016
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BRERA ’14 Tenuta Il BoscoZENEVREDO (PV) – WWW.ILBOSCO.IT
8.20 eurosThe Oltrepò property of the Zonin family, un-der the direction of Piernicola Olmo, produces bottles that are not only technically exemplary,
but also have interesting person-alities. This Brera is a monova-rietal Riesling with a seductive color and youthful aromas of sage, thyme and Mediterranean shrubland. A fine, savory and mineral finish.
IL BARDUGHINO ’14 Alessio BrandoliniSAN DAMIANO AL COLLE (PV) WWW.ALESSIOBRANDOLINI.COM
6.40 eurosWe are once again recommending this dry Mal-vasia because it is a truly interesting wine at a very affordable price. The range of aromas is, as usual, very broad, since this is an aromatic va-riety. Fragrances go from citrus fruit to lychees, from passion fruit to kiwis, but without excess, with balance and a well-judged acidic vein in the mouth. Good substance, a wine to enjoy to the last drop.
OP BONARDA VIVACE LA PECCATRICE ’14 BisiSAN DAMIANO AL COLLE (PV) WWW.AZIENDAGRICOLABISI.IT
6.00 eurosIn a vintage year that was difficult for croatina grapes to reach maturity, Claudio Bisi managed to produce a Bonarda that, al-though a little less meaty than usual, still holds to the stylistic canons of its maker: dry, pre-cise, impenetrably dark color, well-evolved tannin without vegetal notes, intense tones of berries and a fine, almondy finish characteristic of the type.
LUGANA ’14 BertagnaCAVRAGNA (MN) - WWW.CANTINABERTAGNA.IT
8.20 eurosGianfranco Bertagna, the latest of four genera-tions of grapegrowers, is at the head of the fami-ly winery on the moraine hills of Garda, between the lake, Solferino and Castellaro Lagusello, an area recognized as a Unesco World Heritage site. Year after year, he proves to be one of the best producers among those in this far edge of the province of Mantua. His Lugana is a gold-
en-colored wine with good rhythm, notes of citrus and tropical fruit, elegance and a fine finish.
BERE BENE: BEST BUYS
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OP BONARDA IL SOFFIO ’13 Alessio BrandoliniSAN DAMIANO AL COLLE (PV) WWW.ALESSIOBRANDOLINI.COM
6.40 eurosAlessio Brandolini is a young man from the Ol-trepò zone who releases very well-made wines at extremely friendly prices, all closely reflect-ing their home territory. As in other years, we
recommend Il Soffio ’13, a still, assertive Bonarda, not wood-aged, with typical floral notes and dark berry aromas. Tannin is not aggressive, good structure, a fairly deep finish on classic notes of almond.
OP RIESLING BRINÀ ’14Ca’ del GèMONTALTO PAVESE (PV) – WWW.CADELGE.IT
8.40 eurosThe Padroggi family winery has always been successful in their vinification of riesling italico (such as this one) and Rhine riesling. Montalto Pavese is at the end of a strip of hills character-
ized by chalky soil, in the center of the Oltrepò zone. Brinà ’14 has characteristic floral notes, accompa-nied by notes of bay leaf and white-fleshed fruit. Substantial and pleasing in the mouth, it has a good acidic vein.
LUGANA I FRATI ’14 Ca’ dei FratiSIRMIONE (BS) – WWW.CADEIFRATI.IT
9.70 eurosIf Lugana is one of the most desirable whites on the international market, a great deal of credit goes to Igino, Gian Franco and Anna Maria Dal Cero. Their vineyard crosses the borders of Lombardy to extend into Valpolicella (Veneto) and their production is voluminous in terms of numbers, but limited in labels. Exemplary price/quality rapport for Lugana I Frati, which, being the child of a vin-tage year like 2014, is nervous and energetic.
OP ROSSO BORGHESA ’14 Ca’ TessitoriBRONI (PV) – WWW.CATESSITORI.IT
8.40 eurosThe winery led by Luigi Giorgi with the help of his sons, Giovanni and Francesco, grows year after year, improving and perfecting its produc-tion. Rossa Borghesa is a company classic: a fragrant and easy to drink wine made from barbera, croa-tina and pinot nero grapes. With aromas of red berries, violets and citrus fruit, it is balanced and satisfyingly vigorous.
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VERDE LUNA ’14 CaminellaCENATE SOTTO (BG) – WWW.CAMINELLA.IT
9.70 eurosWe are in the heart of Val Calepio, a few kilome-ters north of Bergamo. The Caminella facilities where all phases of vinification take place, are completely underground. Verde Luna ’14 is always good and well made. It is a very pleasant and satisfying chardonnay with marked aromas of tropical fruit and lively citrus notes.
OP RIESLING ’14CalatroniMONTECALVO VERSIGGIA (PV) WWW.CALATRONIVINI.IT
8.40 eurosChristian and Stefano Calatroni are two talent-ed young men who release a range of interest-
ing wines at absolutely competitive prices. This monovarietal Riesling particularly struck us, along with older bottles for those who love more evolved Rieslings. In this 2014, notes of chamo-mile, aromatic herbs and yellow-fleshed fruit dom-inate, with a praisewor-thy acidic component and solid structure.
MIMÌ ’14 CitariDESENZANO DEL GARDA (BS) – WWW.CITARI.IT
8.40 eurosThe Gettuli family divides its attention between the zone of Lugana and San Martino della Batta-glia, just south of Benaco. The winery, created by
Francesco in 1975, today is run by his daughter Giovanna and her hus-band Ugo Mascini, helped by their children Maria, Giovanna and Fran-cesco. The Mimi ’14, made from trebbiano di Lugana with a small amount of chardonnay added, is el-egant, savory and sells at a friendly price.
LAMBRUSCO MANTOVANO IL LAMBRUSCO ’14 CorteSoleMOTTA BALUFFI (CR) – WWW.CORTESOLE.IT
5.00 eurosCorteSole is a brand name that belongs to Vini-cola Decordi, an estate founded by Quirico De-cordi around 1937. The firm today is headed by his grandson Alessandro and is deeply commit-ted to sustainability and respect for the environ-ment. Lambrusco Mantovano presents fresh and fragrant berry notes on the nose. In the mouth, typical vivacity and an honest, easy-to-drink profile make it a good match for typical fried dough puffs (gnocco fritto) and local cured meats.
BERE BENE: BEST BUYS
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LUGANA PIEVECROCE ’14 CostaripaMONIGA DEL GARDA (BS) WWW.COSTARIPA.IT
9.90 eurosMattia Vezzola runs his winery in the Valtenesi zone with passion. This area rises from De-senzano del Garda to Salò, alternating hills and plateaus on its way. Even though his ef-
forts are concentrated largely on showcasing Chiaretto and the groppello grape, we want to point out his excellent Lu-gana, fragrant and inviting with its tones of ripe pear, de-liciously full body and moder-ate intensity.
OP RIESLING GLI ORTI ’13 FrecciarossaCASTEGGIO (PV) - WWW.FRECCIAROSSA.COM
8.90 eurosSince the Odero family winery decided to post-pone the release of this 100% Riesling wine until a year after its harvest, we can appreciate more
deeply the character-istics of the variety and the care taken in its vinification. It still maintains its primary floral and balsamic notes, but typically mineral Riesling tones begin to emerge. This is all in a truly note-worthy context of sa-pidity and elegance.
OP SANGUE DI GIUDA LELLA ’14 FiambertiCANNETO PAVESE (PV) WWW.FIAMBERTIVINI.IT
9.40 eurosThe Fiamberti family has a long grape-growing history in Canneto Pavese, an area suited above all for full-bodied reds, where croatina and bar-bera find ideal terrain on slopes that are often very steep. Ambrogio and his son Giulio, in a dif-ficult vintage year, were capable of selecting the grapes to produce a Sangue di Giuda with good body and fragrance, charac-teristic aromas of berries and well-balanced sweetness.
VIGÀLON ’14 F.lli GiorgiCANNETO PAVESE (PV) WWW.GIORGI-WINES.IT
6.90 eurosThe Giorgio family’s estate releases an endless list of labels, which Fabiano and his father Anto-nio add to every year. Vigalòn, however, a classic Oltrepò barbera/croatina/uva rara blend with fermentation and a brief stay in barrique, is a classic label. In some years, such as this one, it expresses a wonderfully sin-cere and juicy fruit that always pleases.
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OP SAUVIGNON BERTÈ & CORDINI MASARIA ’14 Francesco MontagnaBRONI (PV) - WWW.CANTINEMONTAGNA.IT
8.60 eurosMatteo Bertè is an able young man. He took charge of the family’s winemaking and is work-ing well with a wide range of wines that go from metodo classico spumante labels to young reds, and include whites such as this Sauvi-gnon. It presents a generous bouquet of marked aromas typical of the vari-ety, and is fragrant and well sustained by its acidic back-bone.
OP RIESLING RENANO V. MARTINA ’14 IsimbardaSANTA GIULETTA (PV) WWW.TENUTAISIMBARDA.IT
8.40 eurosVigna Martina is an excellent Oltrepò Riesling that expresses, now when it’s young, enjoyable floral aromas and fresh notes of yellow-fleshed
fruit, but that’s only the first part of its life. In fact, this wine, as we have often verified during nu-merous vertical tastings, is able to evolve in an ex-emplary manner, gradu-ally expressing the typical mineral and petrol tones of the variety.
LAMBRUSCO MANTOVANO ROSSO DEI CONCARI ’14 Cantine LebovitzRONCOFERRARO (MN) WWW.CANTINELEBOVITZ.IT
5.90 eurosAn historic winery in the province of Mantua, it is located right where the Mincio River joins
the Po. Rosso dei Concari is its most significant wine, made from lam-
brusco viadanese, Maestri and Marani grapes. Impenetrable color, violet mousse, intense aromas of violets, raspberry, plum. Good structure and vi-vacity in the mouth, seductive, well-balanced and complex.
CAPRIANO DEL COLLE MARZEMINO BERZAMÌ ’14 LazzariCAPRIANO DEL COLLE (BS) WWW.LAZZARIVINI.IT
10.00 eurosA little denomination in the Bres-cia province, this winery is atten-tive to its environmental impact: all necessary energy comes from solar panels, and transition to or-ganic agriculture is in the works. The wine is notably pleasant. On the slopes of Monte Netto, marzemino is the most common grape, and it is vinified as a mon-ovarietal in this Berzami, with its fragrant and persistent notes of berries and black pepper.
BERE BENE: BEST BUYS
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VALTÈNESI IL CHIARETTO ’14 Pasini – San GiovanniPUEGNAGO SUL GARDA (BS) WWW.PASINIPRODUTTORI.IT
10.00 eurosMore and more interesting wines are coming from this splendid and still little-known zone of the Garda Bresciano. One example is this Chi-aretto from the estate run by Giuseppe Pasini and his son Maurizio. Beautiful color resembling onion skin. The nose opens on floral tones and
then shows classic berry notes and a hint of yel-low peach, all in an el-egant manner. Fresh and pleasant in the mouth, it is well-sustained on the finish.
OP BARBERA V. POGGIO ANNA ’12 Francesco QuaquariniCANNETO PAVESE (PV) WWW.QUAQUARINIFRANCESCO.IT
10.00 eurosIn Oltrepò Pavese you can even run into surprises like this Barbera ’12 – evolved, rich, tasty with ripe fruit, full, solidly structured, and with straightforward aromas, appealing tertiary notes and backbone. A truly wonderful wine for important dishes, sold at an extremely competitive price.
OP RIESLING VIGN. DEL POZZO ’14 Piccolo Bacco dei QuaroniMONTÙ BECCARIA (PV) WWW.PICCOLOBACCODEIQUARONI.IT
5.90 eurosLaura Brazzoli and Mario Cavalli are devoted to their little organic winery and its agriturismo. The wines have personality, like their Cruasé, a dosage zero ver-sion in contrast with most of its type, and much softer. This Riesling, which we have mentioned in the past, is honest, savory and mineral, with up-front aromas of yel-low fruit.
GRAN ROSSO DEL VICARIATO §DI QUISTELLO ’14 Cantina Sociale Cooperativa di QuistelloQUISTELLO (MN) WWW.CANTINASOCIALEQUISTELLO.IT
5.90 eurosThis sparkling wine is never disappointing. It is an historic product of the Cantina di Quistello, a blend of lambrusco Ruberi and ancellotta, refermented in the bottle, and always greatly satisfying on nose and palate. The ruby color is meaty, substan-tial, and has gener-ous aromas rang-ing from violets to blueberries, from currants to white chocolate. Flavor is deep and leaves a pleasant almondy aftertaste.
P I C C O L O B A C C O D E I Q U A R O N I
vigneto del pozzoriesling
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OP RIESLING MOGLIALUNGA ’14 Pietro TortiMONTECALVO VERSIGGIA (PV) WWW.PIETROTORTI.IT
8.40 eurosSandro Torti, the son of Pietro whose name is still on the winery in Montecalvo Versiggia, is a capable artisan who runs the family business al-most on his own. We have often mentioned his Bonarda, which is always among the most ap-pealing in the territory. This year we spotlight his Riesling Moglialunga ’14, a fragrant riesling italico with aromas of flowers and white-fleshed fruit, displaying fine elegance and freshness on the palate.
GARDA CL. GROPPELLO ’14 Le SincettePOLPENAZZE DEL GARDA (BS) WWW.LESINCETTE.IT
7.60 eurosRuggero Brunori, with the help of Andrea Sal-vetti, releases a fine range of wines obtained from his eleven hectares of vineyard. The winery has been certified biodynamic for some years, but the path to reach that goal began in the mid 1990s. In an array of territorial wines, a very in-teresting Groppello stand out, many-faceted and with brilliant fruity and floral traits. Dynamic
and rhythmic, it displays both softness and fresh acidity.
OP BONARDA VIVACE ’14 VanziniSAN DAMIANO AL COLLE (PV) WWW.VANZINI-WINE.COM
9.20 eurosThe Vanzini family winery’s range of authentic, well-made wines is tightly connected to the ter-ritory. The catalog includes excellent spumanti Martinotti Extra Dry as well as sparkling sweet wines such as Moscato and Sangue di Giuda.
The house classic is Bonarda Vivace, which as always is true to its type, with a brilliant beautiful ruby color and aro-mas of violets, straw-berries, raspberries and a lovely almond finish.
OP BONARDA VIVACE POSSESSIONE DI VERGOMBERA ’14 Bruno VerdiCANNETO PAVESE (PV) WWW.BRUNOVERDI.IT
8.20 eurosThe range of wines offered by Paolo Verdi is wide and varied, as Oltrepò tradition demands. All are noteworthy, from whites to reds and spumanti. His Bonarda Vivace Possessione di Vergombera ’14 is clean, lively, has a wonderful mousse and brilliant color. Fruit is beautifully clear, with typical aro-mas of berries and violets, along with balsamic notes. A great plea-sure.
BERE BENE: BEST BUYS
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EARLY EXTRAVERGINE… OLIVE OIL AT ITS BEST
by Stefano Polacchi
The trend is gaining strength: early harvest. These are now the key words for those who aim for quality in the world of extra-virgin olive oil. Even Spain, where large quantities and low prices were a winning game, is undergoing change.
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Ismea.The rebirth of Italy’s groves
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OLIVE OIL
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Early harvest extra-virgin olive oilCOSMO DI RUSSO | CAIETA MONOCULTIVAR ITRANA | GAETA (LT) | WWW.OLIVADIGAETA.IT
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TORRETTA | DIESIS | BATTIPAGLIA (SA) | WWW.OLIOTORRETTA.COM
TREVI IL FRANTOIO | OLIO FLAMINIO | TREVI (PG) | WWW.OLIOFLAMINIO.IT
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GIULIO MANNELLI | MONOCULTIVAR MORAIOLO | BETTONA (PG) | WWW.AGRARIAMANNELLI.IT
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MARCO RIZZO | OLIO EXTRAVERGINE DI OLIVA | FELITTO (SA) | WWW.LADRUPAEILTURIONE.IT
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FRANTOI CUTRERA | FRESCOLIO | CHIARAMONTE GULFI (RG) | WWW.FRANTOICUTRERA.IT
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CARRAIA BARDI | L’OLIANDOLO | TREQUANDA (SI)
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BACCI NOEMIO | OLIO EXTRAVERGINE DI OLIVA |GUALDO CATTANEO (PG) | WWW.OLIOBACCINOEMIO.IT
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by Dario Bragaglia
TRAVEL
VALTELLINATerrace above the world
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Two thousand five hundred kilometers of vineyard terraces, a unique landscape, heroic grapegrowing, and the renaissance of traditional
mountain flavors, cheeses – Bitto and Casera above all – and cured venison and kid. Pair it all with the valley’s splendid Nebbiolo
CASA VINICOLA MAMETE PREVOSTINI
JANUARY 2016
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TRAVEL
”T he wine moment, during my peasant childhood, was lived with direct participation in the rite. Every year it was repeated and perpetuated, be-
ginning as soon as winter was over, with the preparation of the vineyard, the care of the vines and the soil. Then in spring, the grower’s hands gently penetrated the
-ing, still tiny newborns.” These are the words of Ermanno Olmi, who
Rupi del vino, or Wine Cliffs, to heroic viticulture after watching Pierpaolo Di Fran-co prune his vines in Montagna in Valtellina. Pierpaolo, along with Davide Fasolini, founded the Diru-pi winery. Within a few years, with-out their own vineyard, they won a Tre Bicchieri award. These young men are part of the Valtellina wine renaissance, even though work-ing conditions basically haven’t changed much since the 1960s on the narrow terraces of the sun-facing slope of the valley. That exposure favors the maturation of nebbiolo grapes, the princely variety of Valtellina. Locally it is called chiavennasca, almost as a reminder that local viticulture has centuries of history behind it, not only in the valley that rises from Colico to Morbegno, Sondrio and Tirano, swinging from west to east, but also in the nearby Valchiaven-na, that lies south to north towards the Alps that are a barrier to the Canton of Grisons in Switzerland.“There are 2,500 kilometers of terracing, almost a record in a ter-ritory that is so small,” pointed out Mamete Prevostini, president of the Valtellina wine consortium. Forty producers in all (although ten wineries account for 90% of pro-duction) turn out a total of three and a half million bottles, from IGT to DOCG labels. “The num-bers are small, but beyond the eco-nomic dimension, the ethical value
BORMIOTHE PEARL OF WHITE WINTERSThis year, Bormio’s ski season began on November 28. Until April, it will be a very long white winter, hopefully made more romantic by abundant snowfall. New this year is a single ski pass that allow skiing in the three areas of Santa Caterina, Bormio and San Colombano, a total of 155 kilometers of ski runs. A new free bus service will connect the areas. Bormio, the capital of the high valley, is located at over 1,200 meters of altitude. Grapevines can’t grow here, so there’s a long tradi-tion of bitters, grappas and other spirits. One in particular is Brau-lio. The recipe for this Alpine herb bitter is a well-kept secret, but visitors can tour the cellars under the central Via Roma. One of the characteristics of Braulio is that it is aged in Slavonian oak barrels for a period ranging from two to five years (for Braulio Riserva). In Bagni Vecchi, located towards Passo dello Stelvio and Bagni Nuovi, direction Livigno, are two spas that are among the most dramatic in the world. Visitors can immerse themselves in hot water outdoors in a snowy landscape with breathtaking views. Bagni Vecchi is in a zone of Roman baths that have been known since the first century B.C.E. A lovely walk in the woods leads to Fonte Pliniana, where the hot springs emerge in a cavern.Info: WWW.VALTELLINA.IT | WWW.BORMIO.EU
THE MOUNTAINS OF VALTELLINA AFTER AN ABUNDANT OCTOBER SNOWFALL AS SEEN ON THE WAY TO GEROLA ALTA, NEAR SONDRIO
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TRAVEL
WINE AND GRAPES MARCO SIMONIT: LONG LIFE TO NEBBIOLOMarco Simonit and his group of pruners has been busy for over a year consulting with two French Maisons that have written the history of world wine: Château Latour and Moët & Chandon (he has already worked at Châ-teau d’Yquem). But he willingly talks about the Valtellina vine-yards where he worked a few years ago at several wineries in the territory such as Fay, Rain-oldi, Dirupi, Ar.Pe.Pe. “During this project we worked on spe-
the basis of age, altitude and exposition.” The object of the Simonit&Sirch method is to in-crease the longevity of the vines by means of pruning with small cuts that allow free branching of the vines, respecting the lym-phatic circuit. “In Valtellina, from their knowledge of the territory, interesting elements emerged, such as an old culti-vation method called archetto valtellinese”. This traditional system was gradually aban-doned in favor of guyot, which tends to domesticate the vitality of the vine, almost to “castrate it”, according to Simonit. “Even if nebbiolo is a variety that is resistant to wood diseases, with young guyot-trained vines, we tried to understand how we could return to tradition, to a sort of evolution of the archet-to valtellinese that at one time guaranteed 70-80 years of pro-ductivity to the plant.”
A RIPE BUNCH OF NEBBIOLO GRAPES FROM THE TENUTA LA GATTA VINEYARDS MARCO SIMONIT
of work that contributes to main-tain the uniqueness of a landscape also matters,” added Prevostini. A request has been made to include it among the UNESCO heritage sites. Is Valtellina on a par with the vineyards of Porto and the valley of the Douro, or the Lavaux vineyard terraces in Switzerland? The ter-races that produce Sassella, Grum-ello, Inferno and Sforzato are such that even the most distracted tourist notices. Driving up the Valtellina towards Saint Moritz, in the direc-tion of Bormio, Livigno or Valchia-venna, the steep vineyards are the calling card for local wine. Certain-ly, these are transit valleys and have always been so throughout history, contested between the north and south of Europe. Napoleon brought them into the Italian orbit, but be-fore that, they were controlled by Grisons, almost a state on its own in the heart of Europe.
There’s one place where the cul-tural story of this border terri-tory comes clearest. Visit Palazzo Vertemate, a jewel at the gates of Chiavenna. Here the stube made in Nuremberg live alongside Italian Renaissance frescoes. In front of the palazzo is one of Italy’s most beautiful historic vineyards, in the care of the Prevostini winery. It grows riesling and aromatic tra-miner grapes, which produce about 2,000 bottles of Vertemate, a wine made from grapes that have air-dried indoors for four months. Today there’s a way to enjoy the winegrowing Valtellina more slowly. Among the vineyards are marked paths that wind among the terraces, to walk or to bike along. At the center of the La Gatta es-tate, a splendid property, is a pal-
the Dominicans but has been in the Triacca family for four generations.
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To discover culinary treasures, visit the lateral valleys such as Val-gerola, which takes us to Gerola Alta, a tiny village where the Cen-tro del Bitto has its headquarters. About a dozen producers, led by the courageous Paolo Ciap-parello, stubbornly produce the celebrated Alpine cheese in the traditional way, with milk from cows that have only eaten grass. There’s much to say about this valiant choice, with its uncertain future. But a visit to the cellars with hundreds of cheese wheels bought by clients from all over the world and left to age in this tiny, tucked-away mountain town is an experience. Complete it with a taste of Bitto that has aged ten years or more – a true meditation cheese. If you don’t have the time to go as far as Gerola Alta, then stop in the center of Morbegno, where there’s a fascinating cu-
PIZZOCCHERI THE CULINARY FLAGBEARER OF THE VALLEY
-bearers of the valley. The word itself always sug-gests Valtellina. It is impossible to visit Sondrio and its surroundings without trying the fresh pasta spe-cialty that most of the taverns (crotti), trattorias and elegant restaurants have on their menus. As with all popular dishes, there are good and better ways to prepare them. “To protect the true Valtellinese piz-zoccheri, in 2002 we founded the Accademia del Piz-zocchero”, explained its president Rezio Donchi. The association was established in Teglio, a village at 900 meters, which in the past was one of the prin-cipal centers in the valley to which it gave its name. From the pizzoccheri capital comes the original
only question is where to go to taste it. “At one of the nine restaurants in Teglio that are members of the Accademia,” insists Donchi. Outside the Valtel-lina, go to Al Faro in Dalmine. The ingredients for four are: 400 g buckwheat flour, 100 g white flour; 200 g butter, 250 g Casera DOP, 150 g grated grana cheese, 200 g cabbage, 250 g potatoes, one clove gar-lic, pepper.Info: WWW.ACCADEMIADELPIZZOCCHERO.IT
VIOLINO DI CAPRAFOR CHRISTMAS, A CHILD OF THE GROTTOESProcessing meat is a centuries-old tradition in Valtellina and Valchiavenna, transit valleys between northern and southern Europe.Air-dried bresaola of beef and of venison, carne salata, dried cacciatore sausages of mixed beef and pork or game are some of the specialties. In particular, venison salami comes from Val Malenco, a lateral valley that begins in Sondrio. The most unusual product is violino di capra, goat prosciutto. The very few producers that belong to Presidio Slow Food, led by Aldo Del Curto of Chiavenna, use only local animals raised in semi-wild con-ditions and fed with grass, bran and cornmeal. Traditionally, the violino was aged in grot-toes, or crotti, storage spaces in the rock. But clients also buy a violino (between 2 and 3 kilos) and keep it in the cellar to have ready for Christmas. It must be hand-sliced, holding the small prosciutto as if one had a real violin in the hand.
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CHEESESBITTO, CASERA & CO.The cheese panorama of Valtel-lina includes much more than Bitto. The century-old practice of raising cows and goats makes large production possible, and besides the valley’s most famous cheese, Casera, a protected DOP cheese and Scimudin stand out. Although a small group of livestock growers in Valgerola and surroundings have chosen traditional ways of producing Bitto, Bitto DOP can be made on all the alpine pastures in the Sondrio province, in the Alta Val-le Brembana and in the province of Lecco, but only in the sum-mer when the animals are on their Alpine pastures. The ori-gins of Casera date back to the years around 1500 when herds-man brought together their milk to be processed in group dairies. That cooperative method is still alive in all the Sondrio province. The milk comes from cows fed grass and hay from the produc-tion zone. Aging has to be at least 70 days. But, unlike Bitto, Casera can be produced all year long. Little by little as the aging is completed, the cheese tex-ture becomes more consistent and the color more vivid. Young
is the basic ingredient in pizzoc-cheri. Scimudin suits those who prefer fresh cheeses, ready to eat. Whole cow’s milk is worked to best express its sweet and del-
goes well with a little local hon-ey. Other cheeses with a long tradition are Latteria, Taragna and Ricotta, but local dairies al-ways offer new types of cheese to satisfy the tastes of modern consumers.
PREPARATION OF PIZZOCCHERI (BUCKWHEAT FLOUR PASTA)
PAOLO CIAPPARELLO, PRESIDENT OF THE CONSORZIO SALVAGUARDIA DEL BITTO STORICO, IN THE CENTRO DEL BITTO STORICO AGING CELLAR
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linary emporium. Fratelli Ciap-poni is an unmissable shop, a kind of magical grocery in the expert hands of Paolo Ciapponi, a great cheese maven, and his coustin Al-berto, who can lead you around the underground corridors that lie on many levels. Besides cheeses from these valleys, you can taste cured meats such as bresaola – air-dried, salted beef – and one called violino di capra, goat vio-lin. The store has everything, but we also recommend visiting some of the other master artisans who work with meat. Aldo Del Curto in Chiavenna, for example, is also renowned for his violino di capra. Vittorio Salvetti in the Casa della Carne in Lanzada makes artisanal bresaola, carne salata and cured game salamis.
SWEETS HIGH-ALTITUDE PANETTONE AND BISCOTTINIGaetano Coglitore, heir of the Cattaneo dynasty (ma-
Sondrio in 1904, pays particolar attention to the use of natural yeast in his panettoni and colombe produc-tion. One specialty stands out among local products: panettone with berries. In 2006, Coglitore inaugurat-ed a new location for the pastry shop with minimalist lines and large show case windows that allowed him to show off the sweets. In the back is a visible work-shop. Try buckwheat pastry, valcher (a local version of Sacher torte), montebianco (chestnut and cream pas-try) with strawberries, cassata and cannoli. In Prosto di Piuro, near Chiavenna, the family of Simonetta Del
in a house from the 17th century that in the past was a
Switzerland.
ALDO DEL CURTO IN THE MEAT-AGING ROOMS OF HIS BUTCHER SHOP, WITH A BRESAOLA.
PASTICCERIA CATTANEO. THE OWNER AND PASTRY-CHEF GAETANO COGLITORE
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ADDRESSES
TRE BICCHIERI AR.PE.PE. | SONDRIO | WWW.ARPEPE.COM
DIRUPI | LOC. MADONNA DI CAMPAGNA | MONTAGNA IN VALTELLINA (SO) | WWW.DIRUPI.COM
MAMETE PREVOSTINI | MESE (SO) | WWW.MAMETEPREVOSTINI.COM
NINO NEGRI | CHIURO (SO) | WWW.NINONEGRI.IT
ALDO RAINOLDI | LOC. CASACCE | CHIURO (SO) | WWW.RAINOLDI.COM
WHERE TO STAYCONTRADA BELTRAMELLI | VILLA DI TIRANO (SO) |VIA BELTRAMELLI, 41 | TEL. 366 6296828 | WWW.CONTRADABELTRAMELLI.COM A splendid example of a country farm-house transformed into a B&B with a few charming rooms. There’s a mem-orable one built into the old hayloft where guests sleep on a straw bed next to an imposing wall of straw. A restau-
-fers good dishes and local wines.
HOTEL EUROPA | SONDRIO | L.GO MALLERO CADORNA, 27 | TEL. 0342 515010 | WWW.ALBERGOEUROPA.COM
A few steps from the principal piazza.
HOTEL SAN LORENZO | CHIAVENNA (SO) | C.SO GARIBALDI, 3 | TEL. 0343 34902 | WWW.SANLORENZOCHIAVENNA.IT Modern and functional three-star ho-tel, a few steps from the station, the historic center and the crotti, the his-
rocky hollows where at one time the farmers stored wine, cured meats and cheeses. Today many have become trattorias and restaurants.
WHERE TO EAT
CANTINONE | MADESIMO (SO) | VIA A. DE GIACOMI, 39 | 0343 56120
| WWW.SPORTHOTELALPINA.IT
Stefano Masanti, everything based on the products of small farms and breeders in the valley (See the article and recipes on page 61).
CROTASC | MESE (SO) | VIA DON P. LUCCHINETTI, 63 |
TEL. 0343 41003 | WWW.RISTORANTECROTASC.COM Next to the historic site of the Prevosti-ni winery is a restaurant that is pleas-
Excellent traditional pasta dishes: gnocchetti, pizzoccheri, raviolis.
FOOD SHOPBISCOTÌN DE PRÓST | PROSTO DI PIURO (SO) |VIA ALLA CHIESA 3 | TEL. 0343 32733 | WWW.BISCOTTINIDIPROSTO.IT “The popular recipe of true Prosto biscottini was passed down from our ancestors and now we, the grandchil-dren, take care of it,” Monica and Sim-
this ancient family tradition carried on, generation after generation.
CASA DELLA CARNE | LANZADA (SO) | VIA SAN GIOVANNI, 155 | TEL. 0342 453278 |WWW.CASADELLACARNE.COM Bresaola of beef and venison, violino of lamb, goat, deer, goat-antelope.
product of this artisanal butcher, is premium dried, smoked beef, eaten sliced very thin.
FRATELLI CIAPPONI | MORBEGNO (SO) | P.ZZA III NOVEMBRE, 23 | TEL. 0342 610223 | WWW.CIAPPONI.COM In a piazzetta in the historic cen-ter is a shop where you breathe the atmosphere of an emporium from the past: the best cheeses, cured meats, local wines, artisanal pasta, jam, honey and preserves. Among the traditional sweets is bisciola
-poni variation is covered with bit-tersweet chocolate.
MACELLERIA DEL CURTO | CHIAVENNA (SO) | VIA DOLZINO, 129 | TEL. 0343 32312
in the mouth, with more assertive -
no di capra is a Presidio Slow Food, a recognized artisanal jewel. It calls for two months of aging. Aldo ad-vises cutting it by hand and pairing
MIELERIA MOLTONI | VILLA DI TIRANO (SO) | VIA SONVICO, 1 | TEL. 0342 795370 The locale is in a renovated old dairy. In the front, the store stocks a wide variety of honeys, among which are the rare rhododendron, alpine, dan-delion, acacia, lime, chestnut, euca-lyptus, honeydew. In the back is the workshop for honey extraction and packaging.
PASTICCERIA CATTANEO | SONDRIO | VIA TRENTO, 8 | TEL. 0342 218542 | WWW.CATTANEO1904.COM
-taneo in 1904.
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An essential bookfor all who love Italian wine
More than 60 experts spent monthsdoing blind tastings
in every region of Italy
2400 producers
22000 wines
421 Tre Bicchieri
80 Tre Bicchieri verdi
www.gamberorosso.it
RECIPES FROM GREAT CHEFS
by Francesco Seccagnophoto by Michaela Davies
Stefano MasantiA passionate traveler, in love with cooking since childhood,
Stefano Masanti and his wife Raffaella embrace their Valtellina, a land of great products and grand wines
VALTELLINA, BETWEEN LAKE AND MOUNTAIN
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RECIPES FROM GREAT CHEFS
FROM VALTELLINA TO NAPA VALLEY
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IL CANTINONE E SPORT HOTEL ALPINA | MADESIMO (SO) | VIA DE GIACOMI, 39 | TEL. 0343 56120 | WWW.RISTORANTECANTINONE.COM | WWW.SPORTHOTELALPINA.IT
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RIVER TROUT, SLIGHTLY SMOKED, TUBERS AND ROOTS
INGREDIENTS FOR 4 SERVINGS
FOR THE TROUT 4 RIVER TROUT FILET, ABOUT 140 G EACH
30 G SALT
30 G SUGAR
ICE
FOR SMOKING APPLE WOOD SHAVINGS
FOR THE TUBERS 100 G OF PURPLE POTATOES
100 G OF YELLOW POTATOES
100 G OF RED POTATOES
100 G OF SWEET POTATOES
100 G TOPINAMBUR (SUNCHOKE)
FOR THE ROOTS 1 RED CARROT
1 WHITE CARROT
1 RADISH
EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL
SALT AND PEPPER
PREPARATION
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65
INGREDIENTS FOR 4 SERVINGS
FOR THE RAVIOLI 100 G OF 00 FLOUR (PASTRY)
100 G OF DURUM WHEAT FLOUR
100 G EGG YOLKS (FROM 6 EGGS)
200 G FILLET OF EEL
1 SPRIG ROSEMARY
1 CLOVE GARLIC
EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL
SALT AND PEPPER
FOR THE CRANBERRY CONSOMMÉ 200 G CRANBERRIES
4 OYSTERS
SALT
TO DECORATE 1 LETTUCE HEART
OREGANO
EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL
SALT AND PEPPER
PREPARAZIONE
-
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EEL RAVIOLI IN MADESIMO CRANBERRY AND OYSTER CONSOMMÉ
RECIPES FROM GREAT CHEFS
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INGREDIENTS FOR 4 SERVINGS
2 GUINEA HEN BREASTS
30 G BUTTER
20 G EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL
1 CLOVE GARLIC
1 SPRIG THYME
1 SPRIG ROSEMARY
SALT AND PEPPER
FOR THE CABBAGE 4 LEAVES OF CABBAGE, BOILED
30 G RED CABBAGE, FINELY SLICED
EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL
SALT AND PEPPER
4 SMALL PEARS
FOR THE SFORZATO SAUCE 100 G OF GUINEA HEN OR CHICKEN STOCK
50 G SFORZATO WINE
10 G BUTTER
SALT
PREPARATION
BREAST OF GUINEA HEN WITH CABBAGE AND PEAR, SFORZATO SAUCE
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RECIPES FROM GREAT CHEFS
INGREDIENTS FOR 4 SERVINGS
FOR THE SEMIFREDDO 200 G WHIPPED CREAM
20 G HONEY
30 G SUGAR
40 G CHOPPED CHOCOLATE
FOR THE CARAMEL SAUCE 50 G SUGAR
50 G WATER
FOR THE NUT TOPPING 20 G PINE NUTS20 G DATES
20 G PECANS
20 G PISTACHIOS
20 G TOASTED SLICED ALMONDS 20 G MORELLO CHERRIES IN SYRUP
MINT LEAVES
FRESH FLOWERS
PREPARAZIONE Pre -
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CREAM AND CHOCOLATE SEMIFREDDO WITH DATES, NUTS, CARAMEL SAUCE AND MORELLO CHERRIES IN SYRUP
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PAIRINGS
RIESLING DANCING EGG 2014 | V. SATTUI WINERY | 1111, WHITE LANE | ST. HELENA (CA 94574) | TEL. +01 707 963 7774 | WWW.VSATTUI.COM
VALTELLINA SUP. MONTESCALE 2009 | NICOLA NOBILI | POGGIRIDENTI PIANO (SO) | VIA MASONI, 20 | TEL. 0342 430262 | WWW.VININOBILI.IT
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VERTEMATE 2012 | MAMETE PREVOSTINI | MESE (SO) | VIA DON PRIMO LUCCHINETTI, 63 | TEL. 0343 41522 | WWW.MAMETEPREVOSTINI.COM
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SOLESTA 2014 | LA COSTA | PEREGO (LC) | FRAZ. COSTA | VIA CURONE, 15 | TEL. 039 5312218 | WWW.LA-COSTA.IT
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BREAST OF GUINEA HEN WITH CABBAGE AND PEAR, SFORZATO SAUCE
RIVER TROUT, SLIGHTLY SMOKED, TUBERS AND ROOTS
EEL RAVIOLI IN MADESIMO CRANBERRY AND OYSTER CONSOMMÉ
CREAM AND CHOCOLATE SEMIFREDDO WITH DATES, NUTS, CARAMEL SAUCE AND MORELLO CHERRIES IN SYRUP
JANUARY 2016
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There are not many wines that sell for more than 100 euros a bottle – only about a hundred. Those that sell for more than 100 euros, and are produced in the millions are non-existent, with one exception: Dom Pérignon. We met with the winemaker of the celebrated Cham-pagne cuvee, Richard Geoffrey, who handles his immense respon-sibility with cheer, wisdom, and no sign of ego issues.Since its creation in 1937, Dom Pérignon has been the symbol of the power of the estate that created it, Moët et Chandon. But since the creation of the LVHM group, more than a quarter of a century ago, Moët et Chandon and Dom Pérignon have become the trendy flagbearers of the French concept of lux-ury. Richard Geoffrey explained all this confidently. “The estate definitely entered the modern age, and I hope I influenced this development. It is a proud company with a stiff spine, rooted in its pioneering, entrepreneurial spirit, opportunistic in the noble sense of the term. When I look back, my pride will be in the fact for Moët, just as for Dom Pérignon, the wine is central to the brand. That doesn’t happen by accident. It takes a lot of work, influence, conviction.
All those de-velop with time. But with this ap-proach, today brands can go very far.” Trans-lated into the lan-guage of the wine lover, this con-versation tells of a prosaic reality, that of the quali-tative improve-ment of wines, above all of their greater finesse, greater natural expre s s i vene s s . Technique and savoir-faire mat-ter, but today they are backstage. “There are many
ways to achieve quality, both in terms of viticulture and the development of a brand. Moët has made considerable investments, and you can see it in pro-duction, functionality and quality. The increased ownership of our vineyards was essen-tial to our development and to our project. Our ap-proach was gradually transmitted to all our suppliers, but it is still a challenge. Conveying our requirements is still a work in progress, but now we have a pilot group of partners who lead all the others. We have specific qualitative measures, a true vision with real demands, a real, long-term collaboration.” This is a lesson that can be learned by all producers.
Michel Bettane & Thierry Desseauve
DOM PÉRIGNON. The man who createdthe greatest success storyin the history of wine
LETTER FROM PARIS
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GAMBERO ROSSO www.gamberorosso.it
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