Apparel Resources

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MARCH 2014 StitchWorld 3

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4 StitchWorld MARCH 2014

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StitchWorldTechnology and Management in Sewn Product Industry

vol. xII • Issue 1www.stitchworld.net

TechEvent32 Knit WoRld inteRnAtionAl 2014 ludHiAnA exploRing neW gRoWtH

tRACK

TechBytes 8 ARe You AWARe oF SKill

developMent initiAtiveS tHAt tHe goveRnMent iS tAKing...

NewsTrack10 FRAnCe: leCtRA FASHion plM

to SuppoRt globAl buSineSS StRAtegY At iMpeRiAl

Initial khaka being prepared at sample development stage which is given for digitising at production stage in embroidery machine section

Students, faculty and visitors interacting at one of the booths. 18 such statewise stalls were exhibiting collective impact of ATDC centres around the country

Editor-in-Chief DEEPAK MOHINDRA

Technical Editors PAUL COLLYER (UK)

CLAUDIA OLLENHAUER-RIES (GERMANY)

Copy Editor VEERESHWAR SOBTI

Asst. Editor (Technical) TUSSHAR KUMAR

Technical Correspondent RISHABH TANDON

SHWETA IYER

Design & Production RAJ KUMAR CHAHAL

PEEUSH JAUHARI SATYAPAL BISHT

Photo Editor JITENDER MEERWAL

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TechTalk20 HigH FASHion gARMentS in Fine

FAbRiCS: it’S All About ‘JugAd’

26 AnAlYSing pRoduCtivitY oF ‘bACK poCKet AttACHing in JeAnS’ tHRougH Youtube

46 CAReeR oRiented tRAining pRogRAMS FoR AppARel induStRY pRoFeSSionAlS – i

Six SigMA tRAining inStituteS

CMYK


CMYK


Read and comment on my blog at

http://stitchworldmagazine.blogspot.com

E D I T O R I A L

Has the time come for bonded garments? There is a lot of talk from many companies, who would like to add bonded shirts to their portfolios in addition to bonded innerwear which is already quite popular.

The technology of bonding has graduated from tape sealing of seams to multi-stage adhesive tape bonding to the recent single stage bonding with liquid glue dispenser. The popularity of multi-stage adhesive tape bonding is undoubtedly higher due to maturity of the technology, and the last I counted, there are around 12 European companies which are producing machines for bonding and I am sure there must be equal number of Chinese machine manufacturers if not more. Among the quite popular ones are from Macpi, PFAFF, Schips, Nucleus, while the Asian companies are Brother, H&H and Typical.

Except ‘Arrow’ stitchless shirts, there aren’t many in retail to offer stitchless garments to consumers. Will the stitchless garment story be a rare example of technology driving the fashion retail trend?

Interestingly, the needle manufacturer Groz-Beckert also discusses the nuances of bonded garments in its training academy in Germany, which certainly says something about the acceptability of the technology.

Today, it may be quite expensive to produce the bonded shirt due to the slow speed of the technology available, which is around 2 shirts on a machine per day, but I am sure in times to come the speed will go up... and also the quality of the garment.

The very existence of bonded shirt still remains inexplicable; may be a rarity value or can it score high on luxury quotient? While the quality, wearability and lifecycle are yet to establish their superiority, there is already discussion regarding which one is more sustainable, sewn or bonded?

Whatever may be the developments in technology, the age-old system of ‘Jugad’ will always find place in Indian factories to tide over the problems that sometimes even the best of technologies are not able to do. In this issue of StitchWorld a few companies in the Delhi-NCR share their tips on working with fine fabrics when manufacturing high-fashion. With a unique blend of technology and ‘Jugad’, these companies are servicing some of the most fashion-driven brands of the world.

From this issue onwards, we are initiating a new series on training programs that can be undertaken by students or professionals looking at long-term growth in the apparel & textile industry. The first article in the series discusses the pedagogy of various institutes which are imparting training on Six Sigma.

Also in review is technology for knitting and allied operations available with leading players. With back-to-back fairs over the last one month..., this issue reviews the recently concluded KnitWorld, Ludhiana in detail, while the technology seen at GTE, New Delhi will be reviewed in the next issue.

Deepak MohindraEditor-in-Chief

Picture courtesy:

CMYK


Are you aware about the skill development initiatives that the Government is taking wherein willing operators are trained by different training institutes later to be employed by various organizations? Have you employed any operator trained through such programmes? Are they different in any way from the rest? Do you feel such Government initiatives will benefit the industry? Any suggestions...

TECH BYTES

Tech Bytes

There are several initiatives drafted out to support the apparel industry, and Alok Industries is currently exploring the possibilities. Many organizations have employed numerous people through such programs and some even plan to take 100% recruitment through this channel. The industry should avail the benefits of such initiatives as enormous amount is invested in training raw manpower, to make people employable.

These schemes are a support to both industry and the country uplifting the unskilled manpower and the community below poverty line to empower themselves while contributing to the country’s economy.

Jayanti MishraAssistant Vice President – Sustainability & Compliances,

Alok Industries, Mumbai

The Government is putting in effort, time and money, but the real support to the industry can be achieved only after the industry is asked to be part of the training program whereby the modules are modified as per today’s requirements. We gave technical support to an initiative recently where the Government has tied up with GMR group and is providing operator training. We are in the process of hiring from the same institute now. But let me tell you, these operators are no different from any new operator as they are not given any industry training; they are very raw and even the training given to them is very basic.

I guess now the Government has woken up and is actually formulating national occupational standards for operators where we as industry will be a core team in formulating the course material, the person graduating out will have different grades, and hence a better employment opportunity and remuneration.

suMit sahniFactory Manager, Orient Fashions, Gurgaon

There is ATDC and many other such training institutions which are providing this kind of technical

training to the technical staff of the companies, especially for garments and home textiles industries. The Government has to spend lot of funds on these institutions in the form of giving subsidies and funds, Rojgar Melas (employment fairs), industry meets and other such programs, but no one asks about accountability of these.

Figures of trained workforce continue to grow but industry has not been able to get good quality technicians from these institutions. When something is profit-based rather than service-based the purpose does not get fulfilled.

Industry is suffering from a dearth of sewing operators and people having technical knowledge, but of the lack of professional attitude among the Government officials who do their job without bothering about the results of the programme, has hindered benefit to the people in reality. There is a need of a very big debate on how are these initiatives funded and how to maintain the accountability.

PradeeP nahataDirector, Karni Exports, Jaipur

There are various initiatives from the Government like ITIs which give basic training to workers of the garment industry. We as Knitwear Club worked along with Aptex Cluster, a Government of India undertaking which trained 500 girls last year, out of which 300 girls were placed in big companies like SportsKing and Supreme Garments of Ludhiana.

As Knitwear Club, we are planning to setup our own vocational training centre where every 3 months, we will be upgrading workers from semi-skilled to skilled and sending them back to industry. Every month we have targeted to take 1,000 persons so that in 3 months we have 3,000 persons. We will start training unskilled as part of our 3 year programme while semi-skilled will be trained for 2 years. Workers who have basic training from ITI will be trained for 1 year only.

Vinod thaParChairman, Knitwear Club, Ludhiana

CMYK


There are several skill development initiatives being carried out by the Government in form of institutes like ITI and ATDC. We are working with two VTPs (Vocational Training Providers) who are part of Government’s SDI (Skill Development Initiative) scheme which aims at imparting vocational training to school leavers, existing workers and ITI graduates. The scheme also focuses on improving their employability by optimally utilizing the infrastructure available with the Government, private institutions and the industry. These VTPs provide counselling and vocational guidance, training facilities as per norms, impart good quality training and post-training support is provided to trainees in getting employment. The VTP’s also track trainees for three years or till they get gainfully employed. Besides this, as an organization, we are also imparting training to unemployed youth for developing their skills. We are recruiting operators through various private and Government training institutes, with help of VTPs and more than 4,000 youth have already been recruited in our company.

It is a beneficial step for all by the Government of India which industry leaders need to understand. It creates a win-win situation for all. In my personal opinion, industrialists should not work with the contract labour, and only then will they register more gains in the long-term.

VK aggarwalHead HR, Pratibha Syntex, Indore

Although we are aware of skill development initiatives that the Government is taking, but we are focusing on building our own training program for skill development as these initiatives do not meet the suitability criteria of a product category so that the induction of operators is not easy. A year back, we employed few operators from an NGO called AIF (American India Foundation), but we found them no better than other trained operators.

In 2013, we launched our own training program with a Sri Lankan consultancy firm WMA wherein we trained unskilled females from nearby villages for stitching various products like bibs. We even showed lot of motivational videos and movies like ‘Chak De India’ to pep them up and make them realize about their self-esteem and reasons for working as a lady. As of now, women account for 35% of our workforce, which was only 10% earlier and we have registered very low employee turnover, minus all the issues related with migratory labour. Our training centre which started with just 20 females now has 80 females being trained round the year.

hiMani talwarQA Manager, Jawandons, Oster Group, Ludhiana

We are well versed with various training programmes initiated by the Government of India and have employed number of operators through ATDC in the past when we did expansions in our factory, since we consider their training programs as one of the best with a complete amalgamation of theoretical and practical knowledge. Hence it is definitely more beneficial to hire people from institutes like ATDC, than hiring unskilled people and then training them, which consumes a lot of time in making them understand different operations. The trained operators from ATDC can grasp information in a much better way than others.

These initiatives by Government certainly benefit us since there are a lot of things which we have to look into, besides putting efforts in skill development. Places should be identified where majority of Class X and Class XII dropouts are unemployed and initiatives should be undertaken as part of the training programmes, in order to generate employment as well as develop skills so that they can be employed gainfully by apparel manufacturers, who today are facing lot of labour crisis.

raVi raMuManaging Director, Fashion Knits, Tirupur

Write your comments to us by 20th March 2014 at: [email protected] or post your views online through our website: www.stitchworld.net/techbytes

TechBytes StitchWorld April 2014 Question

Do you prefer participation in the national fairs or in the regional fairs... Which format serves the purpose better and what value does it give to the visitors; if no, then why not? Do you also conduct private shows... if yes, do you feel private shows give more value to you rather than participating in large exhibitions… If you have not done a private show yet, is it something that you plan to do in the future?

Tech Bytes

CMYK


For the full year 2013, apparel imports by the US were up 3.89% in value and 4.87% in quantities. The average UVR of garment imported during the year decreased marginally from US $ 3.24 in 2012 to US $ 3.21 in 2013.

TRADE STATISTICS

Quantities of India’s exports to the US in 2013 increased 6.02%, while the value increased 5.61%. The average UVR of the country stood at US $ 3.63, marginally down from US $ 3.64, in the same period last year.

The European Union saw apparel imports in the first eight months of 2013 decline in value by (-) 2.34%, though volumes were up by 3.05%. The average UVR of imports in the review year was Euro 16.31 (per kg of fabric equivalent).

Indian apparel exports declined in value to the tune of (-) 0.83%, though quantities increased by 5.76%. In the review period of Jan.-Aug. 2013, the average UVRs stood at Euro 20.51 (per kg of fabric equivalent).

News Track

France: Lectra Fashion PLM to support global business strategy at Imperial

The Italian fast fashion company Imperial S.p.A,

specializing in menswear and womenswear has implemented Lectra Fashion PLM to reinforce its position in the fast fashion market and support its worldwide business growth strategy. Lectra is the world leader in integrated technology solutions dedicated to industries using flexible materials.

Founded in 1978, and delivering 6 million pieces per year to over 4,000

customers across the world, including Italy, Europe and Asia, Imperial decided to expand its activities in 2012 and invested in 80 multi-brand stores. In the same year, Imperial even increased its turnover to the mark of Euro 119 million.

“Growing at a very fast pace, and consumers demanding more and more variety and newness, we needed to become faster and produce more. Embedding our technical data into Lectra Fashion PLM will

help us share information about styles or technical specifications better and faster,” admits Adriano Aere, Imperial Founder and President.

Imperial decided to integrate Lectra Fashion PLM to speed-up the operations of product development while better connecting teams involved in the collection

process, from design to final product. Since Imperial is based on the mass market business model, building collaboration between creative and technical teams is imperative. Lectra Fashion PLM will ease day-to-day work and streamline the development process. Imperial’s plan is to go one step further and share pre-production and production data by opening its Lectra Fashion PLM to material or service suppliers via a web platform.

Imperial S.p.A chose Lectra Fashion PLM to support its global business strategy

India: Bagmaker in Gurgaon adding capacity as orders increase

Not only are the apparel manufacturing

companies getting good orders, even the accessories companies like Bagmaker from Gurgaon, considered as one of the leading names in manufacturing various kinds of fashion, travel, storage and beach bags, is enhancing its production capacities. The company which had its original factory in Noida shifted its production to Gurgaon few years ago. But now as the orders are growing, it has decided to restart production in Noida also and is planning to install more machines.

The 21-year old company has given an annual turnover of almost Rs. 20 crore this year. “As production in the new unit will start very soon, we are expecting more than 20 per cent growth over the next year as European markets look very positive and buyers based in Spain are quite responsive,” said Kamaljeet, Proprietor confidently.

CMYK


India: Bhartiya International Ltd implements WFX Cloud ERP to enhance global manufacturing operations

The largest exporter of leather fashion products

from India, Bhartiya International’s products are retailed by global fashion brands in Europe and North America, having gained much popularity among 350 fashion companies, with 10,000 users in 14 countries. The company has an annual capacity of half a million leather garments and WFX Cloud ERP will manage Bhartiya’s entire end-to-end business functions from product development, budgets, material planning, capacity management,

merchandising, sourcing, production, quality control, sub-contracting, logistics and financial accounting.

WFX will seamlessly integrate information and processes between design and merchandising studios in Milan with Bhartiya’s world-wide manufacturing facilities and network

Avinash Joshi, CEO, Available Design House with his partner Chitra Joshi

WFX will seamlessly integrate information and processes between design and merchandising studios in

Milan with Bhartiya’s world-wide manufacturing facilities and network. “WFX’s track record, technology and ability to successfully implement software across management, right down to even workers with lower-literacy made it clear that they understand our business and are the right company to partner with,” says Manoj Khattar, CFO, Bhartiya International Ltd.

The company has 10 manufacturing locations in India, China, Bangladesh and Italy, 6 creative prototyping facilities and 9 business development offices worldwide.

Known for manufacturing all types of uniforms and

working with big hotels and institutes, catering to Middle East markets, Mumbai-based Available Design House is expanding its capacity. Looking at cost advantage, the company recently shifted its manufacturing from

India: Available Design House going for massive expansion for its Indore unit

Mumbai to Indore and is planning to go for huge expansion. Manufacturing 3 lakh garments per year, it plans to now make one lakh garments per month in the next one year. The company is also going for compliance certification ‘Disha’, disclosed Avinash Joshi, CEO, Available Design House.

News Track

CMYK


News Track

India: IntelloCut raises seed investment of US $ 200,000 from Blume Ventures and Angel Investors

Team at IntelloCut is upbeat of the future after the seed investment

"IntelloCut not only saves fabric, but drastically reduces the time and labour required for order planning and fabric consumption. Acceptance from the fraternity and encouragement from our marquee investors motivate us to fulfil IntelloCut’s mission," states Manasij Ganguli, Founding member of IntelloCut.

Sri Lanka: Apparel exporters invited to take advantage of Pakistan’s GSP Plus facility with EU

Pakistan’s High Commissioner to Sri Lanka, Major General

Qasim Qureshi made an open invitation to Sri Lankan exporters to utilize the current Generalized System of Preferences (GSP) Plus scheme that Pakistan enjoys with the European Union (EU) and expand trade between the two countries through the existing free trade agreement (FTA). “Pakistan’s new GSP Plus scheme with the EU is an opportunity for Sri Lankan exporters. For that we should jointly explore whatever is possible within the rules and regulations of the trade concession,” said Qureshi during a discussion held at the National Chamber of Commerce recently.

Pakistan was granted the GSP Plus status with effect from the end of December 2013 till the year 2017. The GSP Plus status will allow almost 20 per cent of Pakistani exports to enter the EU market at zero tariffs and 70 per cent at preferential rates, enabling the country to export more than US $ 1 billion worth of products to the international markets. It is said that only the textile industry would earn profits of more than Pakistani Rupees 1 trillion per year with this benefit.

Sri Lanka and Pakistan bilateral trade currently stands at US $ 440 million and it is expected that the trade will grow to over US $ 1 billion in the coming few years. Moreover, Pakistan has vowed to investment US $ 500 million in Sri Lanka’s apparel, textile, IT, sugar, tea and real estate sectors. As of December 2012, the total cumulative investment stood at around US $ 11.9 million and currently investment of around US $ 233.3 million is in the pipeline.

IntelloCut, a material planning and

optimization solution provider for sewn products, has raised US $ 200,000 in seed investment from Blume Ventures and Angel Investors to fund their growth plans. Mumbai-based Blume Ventures co-invests with other funds and provides seed funding in the range of US $ 50,000 to US $ 300,000 to nascent but technology focused and enabled ventures. It also provides follow-on investments to its stellar portfolio companies, ranging from US $ 500,000 to US $ 1.5 million.“ Acceptance from the fraternity and encouragement from our marquee investors motivate us to fulfil IntelloCut’s mission. This investment will help us achieve scale through strengthening our marketing and sales networks, and developing new products from our world class R&D facility in Delhi,” states an upbeat Manasij Ganguli, Founding member of IntelloCut.

The funds raised will be used for global expansion and marketing by the parent company Threadsol Softwares. “We look forward to our partnership with Mausmi Ambastha, Manasij Ganguli and their team in their journey of building IntelloCut into the de facto planning software for the manufacturing industry. In an industry

that is as competitive as garment manufacturing, they’ve developed software and algorithms that are saving 3-7% across pilots and their initial customers, boosting efficiency in this sector,” said Kartik Reddy, Managing Partner, Blume Ventures.

Commenting on the investments made by Blume Ventures in IntelloCut, Academician and Industry Expert, Prof. (Dr.) Prabir Jana, Head (Information Technology) NIFT Delhi said, “The permutation and combination in cut planning is so many that it is impossible for a human being to choose mathematically the best option manually. Cut planning software is probably the only true application where mathematical algorithms are used in garment manufacturing. IntelloCut is the most realistic cut planning software I have ever reviewed which takes care of real life constraints and common human habit of non-conformance

in dynamic scenario to offer practical solution.”

IntelloCut not only saves fabric, but drastically reduces the time and labour required for order planning and fabric consumption. It automatically creates a cut order from input data, suggests grouping, allocates rolls and plans remnants, by reducing number of plies, markers, bodies-cut and end-bit wastage.

CMYK


Indonesia: Busana Remaja Agracipta improves accuracy of planning, capacity utilization and delivery performance, using Fast React Evolve

Engaged in manufacturing lingerie for buyers like

Maiden Form, JCPenney, H&M, Simon de Winter, Warnaco, Bonprix, Giorgio Armani, Eveden and DKNY, Busana Remaja Agracipta (BRA) has a capacity to produce 24 million units of bras, briefs, body suits, camisoles, hipsters, leggings and thongs, with four different manufacturing locations in Indonesia and a turnover of US $ 80 million. Constantly striving to improve customer service levels, BRA was facing problems due to the lack of visibility and the time taken to get updates on the latest situation, as well as quickly promising delivery dates when booking new orders. In 2010, BRA implemented Fast React’s Evolve solution to handle 350 styles a month, produced in 110 sewing lines and being able to see all factories in order to centralize its planning and decision making processes.

The company integrated Fast React’s Evolve solution with their existing ERP system to improve data integrity,

enabling them to start production on-time, keep a track of the production via the solutions Time and Action calendar and also foresee the issues of pre-production delays and material shortage. “Planning with Evolve also helps us monitor machine allocation in various factories, allowing us to reallocate within our 4 factories. This eliminates our past experience when production is delayed due to machine shortages. We could not see until it was too late,” asserts SL Uttam, President at Busana Remaja.

The company can now quickly generate reports on order status and analyze KPI performance on aspects such as Shipment and Plan vs. Actual, in less than 10 minutes. Due to this the staff can now save 2-3 hours per day just on report generation. Having used Evolve for over 4 years, SL Uttam concludes, “Our KPIs show that we are much more accurate in planning and what we achieve. That more than justifies the investment in the Evolve system.”

BRA also has a facility in Bangladesh, named Intimate Apparels (above)

CMYK


News Track

India: AKG Nair, Group Advisor, Pearl Academy of Fashion, passes away

A pioneer in the field of academics of fashion

industry who helped change the perspective of people towards fashion and brought innovative ways in fashion education, AKG Nair, Group Advisor, Pearl Academy of Fashion and Laureate Asia passed away at age of 66.

The eminent revolutionary was associated with National Institute of Fashion Technology from 1987 to 1992 before joining Pearl Academy of Fashion in 1993 as Group Director and established various branches of Pearl Academy of Fashion in Delhi, Jaipur and Chennai in India and also in Dhaka, Bangladesh, thereby developing transparent and sustainable systems for managing academic administration of more than 2000 students.

Today, Pearl Academy of Fashion is a popular professional institute for fashion, design and art in India, offering 2 Master’s, 6 PG Diploma, 10 BA(H) level programs besides many other professional courses.

USA: Gerber supplies automatic cutters for Wilson’s Super Bowl footballs; improving leather hide utilization

With 25,000 customers in more than 130

countries, Gerber has more than 40 years of experience in providing solutions for product lifecycle management, product development, CAD, automatic cutting and spreading, for a diverse range of sewn products and flexible materials. This was more than enough for Wilson Sporting Goods football factory in Ohio producing 800 official Super Bowl footballs for installing Gerber’s new Taurus II leather cutting system. The company is comparing hide utilization results when cutting hides manually vs. using the Taurus II system. Each hide has different flaws and is unique in size and shape, the Taurus II leather cutter captures the hide and its flaw zones in seconds using a digital camera mounted above the cutter. The system’s nesting software then applies powerful algorithms to analyze the hide and efficiently place parts to ensure users get the most cut parts from every hide. With parts placed edge

to edge, Gerber’s proven knife

technology cuts quickly and

precisely to ensure accuracy

and uphold product quality.

On an average, at Wilson’s

Ohio factory, 10 footballs

are manufactured from one

cowhide. Because cowhides

are costly, improving hide

utilization by even 1 per cent

can reduce material costs

significantly. Dan Riegle,

Wilson’s factory manager

said, “We’re excited about the

opportunity Gerber’s Taurus II

offers us to ensure quality and

reduce our material costs; we’re seeing as much as 10 per cent improvement in yields as a result of Taurus’ computerized nesting capabilities.” The factory’s 120 employees produce 4,000 footballs a day and more than 7,00,000 each year. In addition to the Super Bowl, Pro Bowl and all NFL footballs, the factory also manufactures the official footballs for the NCAA (National Collegiate Athletic Association), 28 high school associations, American Youth Football and countless other leagues.

India: Raymond Signs MOU with West Bengal Government for Skill Development

Maintaining its philosophy of “Growing Together”

Raymond, India’s leading textile and apparel brand and a leader in worsted fabric and garments, after their collaboration with the Government of Bihar, Uttar Pradesh and Rajasthan to train the marginalized and unemployed youth in the State to become tailors, has now signed an MOU with the West Bengal Government for imparting skill development training in tailoring to

and Domjur (Howrah) would be setup. The infrastructural support for setting up the training institute would be provided by the State Government, while Raymond would provide experts to train the individuals. The institutes would offer two courses of six months and one year duration. The six-month course would impart training related to stitching trousers and shirts, while the one-year course will also teach stitching of suits.

Taurus II leather cutter captures the hide and its flaw zones in seconds using a digital camera mounted above the cutter

unemployed youth in the state.

The company is planning to

open 20 more centres across

India during the next five years

with an aim to train 6,800

youth, free of cost.

As per the MoU signed

between the Skilled Training

Institute by Raymond (STIR)

and the Department of

Technical Education and

Training (DTET), two centres for

skill training in tailoring, one

each at Mominpur (Kolkata)

AKG Nair

CMYK


Manoj Goyal, Director, Goyal Readytex

Cotton World of Bangalore, a well-

established exporter in India and doing business of more than Rs. 100 crore per year, has recently expanded with 750 machines in Anantapur district of Andhra Pradesh. The kidswear company with main markets in Europe, having 2,200 machines in 6 factories, is planning to invest US $ 1 million initially to start a factory of 1,000 machines; the management is willing to enhance the investment and is also targeting Bangladesh.

“Bangladesh is our next growth destination. “ We know

India: Cotton World planning to enter into Bangladesh

it is not easy; I went to Bangladesh twice in the last one year but things

are still not finalized. We are looking to start a factory in Chittagong EPZ for labour and cost control advantage. In India, arranging

manpower is a herculean task and minimum wage is

already too high even in B or C grade cities, but in

Bangladesh labour is easily available and wage is still reasonable compared to India. Having a huge factory under one roof will help us to control the administrative and other overhead costs,” argues BN Monappa.

Known for prints and ladies dresses, Jaipur is now

growing bigger, as most of the mid-sized companies having 150 to 250 machines are looking to increase capacities. Goyal Readytex with 300 machines, is now planning to install 600 more machines in a new factory spread over 60,000 sq. feet area. The total investment for this expansion is nearly Rs. 7 crore and the new unit is likely to be commissioned by the year 2015. Manoj Goyal, Director of the company shares, “Apart from strong existing buyer base, new markets like Latin America and Japan is our new focus. Especially as Japan’s payment is very secure and Jaipur is already doing good business with Japanese buyers.”

Manoj laments that Jaipur requires Government support

India: Goyal Readytex investing Rs. 7 crore to install 600 more machines

to expand its dyeing and printing expertise, as the city doesn’t have specific place or land for this purpose. The company has capacity for 5,000 metre discharge print per day and is manufacturing apparels as well as home furnishing products and is exporting mainly into Europe. The company is also making a dormitory for 100 workers in the new factory so that the workers will be able to save more money.

India: Arvind to set up Garment Park in Gandhinagar with an investment of US $ 24.50 million at Imperial

The integrated textile and apparel manufacturer,

Ahmedabad-based Arvind Ltd. is setting up a garment park in Gandhinagar, in which it would also have its own apparel manufacturing facility. Arvind would set up the garment park through its subsidiary Arvind Garment Park Pvt. Ltd. at an estimated cost of around US $ 24.50 million. “The company would invest another US $ 20.35 million to set up its own clothing unit with a capacity to produce about nine million pieces annually,” informed

Jayesh K Shah, Director and Chief Financial Officer of Arvind. The unit is likely to become operational within a year and fetch around US $ 97.64 million in revenue annually. “The garment park would have around 20 garment manufacturing units within its premises, which are expected to invest about US $ 48.82 million,” added Shah. The park, expected to go operational in March-April 2015, would have capacity to earn around US $ 244.10 million, mostly through exports, he added.

News Track

CMYK


News Track

Bangladesh: Floreal Knitwear on major expansion route as parent company vows to invest US $ 1.65 million

Sri Lanka: Intertek opens textile and apparel testing lab in Colombo

Floreal specializes in manufacturing sweaters of cashmere, lambswool and merino

(L-R) Rajesh Saigal, Regional MD South Asia Intertek; Lloyd Pitchford, Group CFO and COO South Asia Intertek; Faiszer Mustapha, Deputy Minister for Investment Promotion; and Milinda Moragoda, Senior Advisor to the President of Sri Lanka, cutting the ribbon to declare open the new Intertek office

Mauritius based Floreal Knitwear Group, which

produces 5.5 million pieces per year, plans a big expansion in Bangladesh where it already produces 1.5 million pieces. “Our strategy is to double our production volume in Bangladesh within two years and produce 30,00,000 pieces there. We are already looking for a second site to expand our operations,” informed Jean- Baptiste de Spéville, Chief Executive Officer of Floreal.

The group will be injecting Mauritian Rupee 50 million (US $ 1.65 million) in the expansion project. For management, the attractiveness of Bangladesh lies not only in its low labour costs, but also due to the fact that this country is a meeting point for principals from various countries. “International buyers are likely to visit Bangladesh regularly because they have offices.

A leading provider of quality and safety

solutions, serving wide range of industries around the world, Intertek opened their new testing laboratory in Battaramulla, Colombo recently. Intertek decided to expand its apparel presence in Sri Lanka with an ISO 17025 approved textiles and apparel testing laboratory to serve the country’s US $ 4 billion export industry. “The Sri Lanka lab brings the total number of Intertek textile and apparel labs to 47,” informed Intertek Group CFO and COO for South Asia Lloyd Pitchford.

Having a marketing platform in this country allows us to bring Floreal its potential customers,” said Jean-Baptiste de Spéville.

This investment will enable the company on the one hand to increase capacity and on the other allow producing more in the premium segment. The group is 90% in the menswear, and the

The company with its unparalleled knowledge and expertise on global trends affecting the garment industry provides local manufacturers and global brands and retailers, convenient testing

objective for the next five years is to diversify its production more equitably between menswear and ladieswear.

Floreal specializes in manufacturing sweaters of cashmere, lamb wool and merino. The parent company of Floreal Knitwear, the Mauritian clothing maker Ciel Textiles, has recently reported a 28% rise in first half pre-tax

profits after an improved performance from its knitwear business (Floreal Knitwear).

The Ciel Textiles Group has 8 business units: knitwear, knits, shirts, bottoms, spinning, weaving, dyeing and retail. Through its retail unit, Ciel commercialises the brand Harris Wilson and Floreal Boutiques. Floreal Knitwear Ltd. was officially opened on 5 June 1972.

Today, the company has knitwear operations in Mauritius, Madagascar, China and Bangladesh, besides the Tropic Knits unit which has circular knitting plants in Mauritius and leisurewear making units in Madagascar. In fabrics and yarns the Ciel Group owns Consolidated Dyeing & Fabrics, which knits fabrics in Mauritius and Ferney Spinning Mills which spins carded yarn for knitwear and weaving in Mauritius.

solutions. “We can now provide a wide range of services in the country to help the manufacturers maximize their revenue potential by delivering time and cost,” added Rajesh Saigal, Regional Managing Director, South Asia.

Intertek Lanka is a joint venture between Intertek Overseas Holding Limited of UK and MMBL Pathfinder group of companies. The Intertek Sri Lanka lab is equipped with physical and analytical testing machinery to offer a full range of ecological tests required by customers. It includes physical testing to

identify and analyze properties of textiles, fibres and garments, feather and down, flammability testing, care label instructions and performance testing.

Intertek looks forward to servicing Sri Lanka’s apparel, agriculture, petroleum, fertilizer and food sectors, through its local operations. Intertek has more than 1000 laboratories and offices in 100 countries and employs over 36,000 people. The chief guest at the opening was Faiszer Mustapha, Deputy Minister – Investment Promotion. Dr John Rankin, British High Commissioner also participated.

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India: Hunar Ki Hunkar - ATDC Roars Its Skill Development Efforts

Two years ago when ATDC was appreciated

for its skill development efforts, after winning the prestigious UK-India Skills Forum Award-2011, Dr. Darlie O Koshy, the man behind the ATDC success story, was thinking that they had not done enough. Again, when recently ATDC received the Assocham Award for best vocational institute, Dr. Koshy was busy thinking of what next and this continuous forward-thinking was clearly reflected at the first ever interactive skill event organized by ATDC – Hunar Ki Hunkar (Roar of Talent). The two days’ event, organized at the Apparel House, Gurgaon, included Rozgar Mela, various seminars and skill competitions, and saw active participation from all ATDC centres which got an opportunity to interact and take advantage of each other’s USPs, while more than 20 companies interviewed and selected candidates as per their need.

“Though ATDC has been operating at many locations around the country, not many know about their activities, even the individual centres do not know what others are doing. It is a must that the industry should understand the collective impact of ATDC, and this is what the event is about,” said a satisfied Dr. Koshy. The collective impact of ATDC centres was evident at the 18 statewise stalls, which besides showcasing the culture of the state, also effectively demonstrated the specialization of the centre, product and individual strengths. Not only was the faculty busy

interacting with each other, but even the trainees were seen making effort to understand the working, specialization and products of each other’s centres.

Yet, while internally there was much activity, but on the other side the very slow industry visitation to the event was noticeably a disappointment. If the good visitation could have happened, not only would these centres have more exposure, but even the industry could have enhanced its recruitment of trained operator/manpower from around the country. Present at the event, Lalit Gulati, CMD, Modelama Exports said that ATDC and apparels industry are depending on each other for the future, and survival of both is also dependent on mutual cooperation.

Rozgar Mela, which was one of the main attractions of the event, witnessed participation of top export houses like Shahi,

Students, faculty and visitors interacting at one of the booths. 18 such statewise stalls were exhibiting collective impact ATDC centres around the country

News Track

Pearl, Orient Craft, Richa Global, Radnik and Arvind. Hundreds of candidates were interviewed by various companies but selection ratio was comparatively less as most of the HR and technical professionals of these companies felt that there was a mismatch of what the students were looking for and what the companies wanted. Orient Craft came with a huge team to hire 40 people in Quality, IE and Production Department, but its experience was just

satisfactory as it could select only 12 of them on day one. “The way Hunar Ki Hunkar has been organized is perfect, the enthusiasm of candidates is also ‘infectious’ but most of these candidates want to join Merchandising, may be due to the glamour of the same but they should know that Production is the core of the industry, not Merchandising. I feel they should get more grooming on technical and practical perspective,” said Paramjit S. Lamba, AVP & Head – HR, Orient Craft, Gurgaon.

Dushyant, Asst. Manager HR, Shahi Exports, Faridabad also felt that these candidates should focus more on technical as well as on their soft skills. “We liked their confidence and enthusiasm, but technical and soft skills require enhancement,” he said.

Inaugurating the event, Virender Uppal, Chairman, AEPC, was quite impressed with the overall development of ATDC and appreciated its contribution

Organized by ATDC at the Apparel House, Gurgaon, the two days’ event, included Rozgar Mela, various seminars and skill competitions. More than 20 companies interviewed and selected candidates as per their need.

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News Track

Candidates participating in surface ornament competition (above); and team from Chelsea Mills interviewing the candidates

to skill development for the apparel industry. “It is estimated that from the year 2013 to the year 2022, about nine million people are expected to be added to the overall apparel industry, out of which at least 7-8 million would be the addition to shop-floor workforce given the growth in both export and domestic industries and the rest in different tiers of manufacturing as well as merchandisers, designers, managers, etc. With high attrition rates of 12-18 per cent on the production floors, trained workforce is required to substitute and also for expanding capacities,” he said.

Hari Kapoor, Vice-Chairman, ATDC; Ashok Logani, Chairman DISHA

Sub- Committee; Lalit Thukral, Maharana of India; and GS Madan of Madan Trading Company were also present at the inauguration. Skill competition based on most efficient assembly line, competition for surface ornament, tech talk focusing on various topics also added value to this event. ATDC with about 190 centres provides these vocational skills to desirous candidates and bridge the gap between the rising manpower demand for skilled workforce of the garment industry and the employment and livelihood needs of youth and women folks in the country,” concluded Kapoor.

India: Untimely death of SK Chaudhary, Chairman, KRF Limited leaves industy shocked; SW pays tribute

Swaran Kumar Chaudhary, the Founder and Chairman

of Kailash Group, is credited to have brought about the manufacturing of computerized woven label cult in India. A man far ahead of his times, he epitomized the dauntless entrepreneurial spirit ‘dare to dream and learn to excel’. He dared to dream on a scale unimaginable before in Indian label industry and is regarded as an icon for the accessories industry in India.

His friends and associates will always remember him as the one who rewrote the history of the Indian label weaving industry and built a truly global corporate group. His life and achievements prove that backed by confidence, courage and conviction, man can achieve the impossible. Besides being firmly rooted in traditional Indian values, he was also the quintessentially modern man, the man of the new millennium. This was clearly reflected in his passion for mega-sized projects, the most advanced technology and the highest level of productivity. The corporate philosophy he followed was short, simple and succinct: “Think big. Think differently. Think fast. Think ahead. Aim for the best”. He inspired his team to do better.

Under his leadership, KRF Limited was born as a Public Limited Company in 1992 and today his group is no longer a label manufacturer but rather a multi product – garment accessories manufacturer capable of offering one-stop solution for entire accessories need. Currently the company produces a wide range and

variety of labels like printed, woven, puff and decorative labels, polyester buttons, hang tags, rubber, PVC and embroidery badges, tag seals, tapes and belts, and plastic hangers. “It has been a long journey and the endeavour was and is to add value and product as our understanding of the industry evolves,” said Chaudhary in an interview with Apparel Online in 2011.

Known for his philanthropic work and associated with many social organizations like the Janakpuri Dharmik & Samajik Mahasangh as Chief Advisor, Chaudhary touched the hearts of many. The over 8,000 people who came to pay their respect at his final prayer meeting is testimonial to the love and respect that he commanded among the industry, his social network and even political circles.

StitchWorld is deeply saddened by his death... He was a supporter of our efforts from day one and was open to sharing information at all times. His untimely death at 72, leaves us all shocked, we pray that the company he build with dedication and hard work will continue to follow the path shown by this humble man with leadership qualities.

SK Chaudhary

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High Fashion garments in fine fabrics It’s all about ‘JUGAD’

The Delhi-NCR region is known for its high value ladieswear, and most of the exporters have built systems to feed this market with flexible quantities and varied value additions. At the core of most of the products is fine/sheer fabric which is used creatively for manufacturing blouses, dresses, skirts and other ladies wear. Handling this fabric is not easy and each company, whether big or small, has devised ways to work effectively with focus on quality and varied styles. While a company like Scorpio Apparels, has set benchmarks in working with high value products, mostly in fine fabrics, companies like Pyoginam, Fiori Creations, Cotton Harbour and Lilly Fashions are no less innovative with clearly defined focus areas.

chambray and georgette from China and linen from Italy. However, Scorpio prefers to work with Indian fabrics which require 15 days to deliver, unlike the imported fabrics which take around 50 days. Moreover, at times the company gets stuck with substandard fabrics from China which creates quality issues.

No doubt, working with dimensionally unstable and stretchable fabrics requires extra care to inspect it for holes and tags. Not taking any chances, the company does 100% fabric checking and follows the 4-point system for both greige and processed fabric, using glass tables for inspection to avoid damage.The usual problems associated with sheer fabric or fine fabric is its instability, stretch and yarn pulling, which also creates

ranging from 50 to 50,000 pieces according to buyer’s requirement. Rakesh Gupta, Managing Director, Scorpio Apparels is the mastermind behind the growth of the company from exporting to their upmarket brand ‘Nitya’ for the French market and also catering to other European and US buyers like Mount Swan, Max Spree, Ralph Lauren and Max Mara.

Efficient greige fabric, cutting and embroidery process managementSourcing chiffon, georgette from Surat and handmade voile from Coimbatore, the fabric which is much in demand in Europe, the company also imports blended fabrics like silk chiffon, poly-satin, silk,

Located in Faridabad (Delhi-NCR) and Okhla in New Delhi, Scorpio Apparels is one such factory which has specialized in handling such delicate fabrics and is consistently innovating, manufacturing processes to make camisoles, blouses, shirts, jackets, overcoats and even trench coats in an FOB range of US $ 7 to US $ 135.

The company equipped with 950 stitching machines and 15 multi-head ZSK embroidery machines, makes either 6,500 units of basic styles or 4,000 units of value added garments per shift in order quantities

Scorpio ApparelsCreating benchmarks in manufacturing high fashion ladies garments

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Initial khaka being prepared at sample development stage which is given for digitising at production stage in embroidery machine section

Trolley designed to keep fabric rolls as well as cut parts colour and style wise to reduce frequent material movement

Fabric checking on glass tables for dimensionally unstable fabrics

difficulty in laying, cutting and marking since there is frequent fraying of edges and slippage while laying more number of plies in a single lay. Another critical issue faced in these fabrics is the wavy grain line which tends to distort the fabric when cutting the fabric ends. To prevent this, small layers with maximum length of 3 metres are prepared and a maximum of 70-80 plies are cut in one go.

During the laying of sheer fabrics, usually one sheet of paper is put following every 15-20 plies after which the fabric is snipped and torn at the end of the lay as opposed to conventional cutting to ensure that spreading takes place ‘on grain’. Some of the parts (especially smaller ones) are first block cut and then re-cut on band knife to ensure greater accuracy. For panels, where embroidery needs to be done, allowance of 3 cm is kept in order to have correct placement of embroidery and then re-cutting of the panels is done. These panels to be embroidered are initially cut in blocks and then forwarded in the embroidery section. In case of handloom voile where fabric is starched, the fabric has to be laid and stretched for duration of 1- 2 hours. In some cases of poly-satin, poly chiffon, cello tape is also fixed at places

where there is no marking and after placing, the patterns are pinned by paper pins to maintain accuracy while cutting. In fabrics like polyester where unravelling is frequent, edges are sealed by heating. In case of defects in the middle of plies of fabrics, a cut strip of fabric is placed in that area to identify the area where splicing needs to be done.

Special trolleys with separate section define to keep fabric rolls colour wise and style wise for carrying at least 5 rolls of fabric are being used for material movement. Fusing of such fabrics in collars or plackets is done after parts have been cut in flat continuous fusing machine by maintaining correct temperature and pressure combinations for interlining and fabric. Confident of the company’s proficiency in effectively managing the entire process from cutting to the allotment of cut parts of garment to the sewing lines, Rakesh said “Our expertise has been in handling of light weight fabrics and embroideries and that is what we do best to demand an FOB of US $ 135 for some of the styles.”

At the sample stage, basic embroidery templates called khaka are created by tracing the design on paper first and then over fabric in form of dotted lines using

To prevent defects such as wavy grainlines and fraying at edges while spreading, sheer fabrics are spread only up to 3m in length with maximum 70-80 plies with sheet of paper alternatively placed every 15-20 plies with fabric snipped at ends as opposed to conventional cutting method. - Rakesh Gupta, Managing Director

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Fabric embroidery being carried for asymmetric designs Special work aid designed to improve fabric handling and specify WIP in the production floor

ease handling of garments. To ensure equal feeding while sewing sheer fabrics to achieve pucker-free garments, Scorpio Apparels has sewing machines with top and bottom feed for maintaining seam quality. Due to the slippery nature of the fabrics and the smooth sewing table surface, operators find it difficult to handle fabrics during sewing for which paper is being used to cover the table surface making it non-slippery. In case of silk chiffon where fabric doesn’t attain stability even after fusing, the parts are stitched with paper as in collar and then pressing is done, which brings stability before it moves on to assembly line. The paper is later removed at the final stage.

For streamlining the production process and reducing rejections, assembly lines are divided into part preparation for construction of small parts like collar,

and throat plate size all impact seam appearance and if proper equipment are used, they will help in putting check on formation of sewing marks, holes along with seam grinning, seam puckering and seam slippage arising in sheer fabrics. Keeping all these factors in focus and to control the defects, the company uses sewing machines from Brother – Exedra model and also Juki’s DDL-8300N in its assembly lines. Scorpio Apparels uses ball point needle of size 7 because when this needle hits the yarns of fabrics, it doesn’t damage the yarns. Narrow throat plates aid in restricting the fabric to get stuck in the hole of throat plate. The pintucks which were earlier done by chainstitch machines has now been replaced with lockstitch machine with pintuck folders to avoid thread breakage. Even bottom hemming is done by hemmer attachments which

cuffs and pin stripes and final assembly lines. For inline material movement, special trolleys with bundle numbers marked are used by the company for passing bundles from one machine to another, so that cut parts do not get mixed within the sewing line when being passed from the part preparation to final assembly.

Productivity ranges from 10-12 pieces per hour per person in such kinds of garments with average efficiency of 60% to 70% per operator. The most important factor at Scorpio is the training provided to the sewing operators which is a 10 day program comprising of educating the operator on how to handle fabric and sewing. “Work place ergonomically is equally important for building efficiency of workers for which we provide comfortable chairs to sewing operators with cushions,” says Rakesh.

zinc oxide. The mock is first hand stitched and then approved by the buyers. While doing mass production of these designs, the khaka is given for recreation in EPCwin embroidery software from ZSK, for making the same ready for machine embroidery. The company has 20 and 36 head embroidery machines with capacity of doing 9 different colours on both individual fabric panels and overall fabric. In some cases, to further control the quality and precision of embroidery of some critical designs, all the fabric panels to be embroidered are sewn together with strips of greige or waste fabric making a long vertical strip, which is altogether put on the embroidery machine.

Work aids and correct machine settings of utmost importanceParameters like needle size, presser foot type, feed dog,

For streamlining production process and reducing rejections, assembly line is divided into parts preparation and final assembly line with inline material movement between the two line with trolleys marked with bundle numbers so that components are tracked correctly.

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Quality Management SystemFocusing on quality rather than saving time, Rakesh reasons, “We would rather invest a few more minutes in making these garments carefully, rather than saving minutes and getting the defective pieces.” Standard operating procedure (SOP) has been made for each and every operation in the entire process which includes not only the sewing operation but also the finishing department to the use of different steam and pressure setting along with appropriate use of vacuum. For the final checking, stands have been put through the entire checking area to hang the garments after finishing for final checking; it's a flexible method of maintaining continuous checking.

Even defect calculating work aids have been devised by Scorpio which have sloped glass bases where measurement check sheet is placed and below that, abacus type tools is attached which is being used to mark out defects in different areas like chest, shoulder, waist measurement, etc. These work aids minimize paper and labour wastage since reading of the abacus needs to be noted only at end of each hour and then final checking of measurement is done.

An AQL level of 2.5 is being followed throughout for checking the quality. Special inverted U-shaped work aids like pallets are used after final checking to prevent shape distortion. Interestingly, the button attachment is done after the final checking has been completed. Why?

Since diverse type of garments like skirts, camisoles, blouses need to be shipped to the buyer together and in correct shape; a mock of 40 feet container has been created to analyze the quantities which can be placed in the particular container for shipment.

The company believes in doing small order quantities with perfection rather than taking up larger order quantities. Currently, the company is producing high fashion ladies garments in voile, georgette and knit fabrics. Offering value additions like wax embroidery, Adda embroidery and tie and dye, sampling of value added garments with embroidery is done in Moradabad and the FOBs range from US $ 5-25. The product development is done according

to tech packs and in order to cut down lead time of sourcing fabric, Cotton Harbour buys the yarns and gets the fabric made from neighbouring areas.

To reduce slipping of sheer fabrics while cutting, the company is using brown pattern making sheet and laying only 40-50 plies at once. For quality checking of garments AQL level of 2.5 is being followed. “Experienced tailors on piece rate system are recruited to handle sheer fabrics for quality production… it cannot be done with inexperienced operators even if trained,” says Sanjay

Chawla, MD, Cotton Harbour India.

Cotton Harbour also deals in niche products like equestrian apparels and yoga clothes made of bamboo apart from manufacturing uniforms for Army. The company was started in 1991 with manufacturing of knitwear which gradually diversified its business catering to different brands like UBC, Red Cats, Nisca, Li & Fung, Cole Water Creeks among others.

Cotton Harbour India

Sanjay Chawla, MD

Garments made of sheer fabrics being showcased

Standard Operating Procedures have been defined for entire manufacturing chain, from cutting to sewing till finishing, where appropriate steam and pressure specifications have been enlisted to ensure quality of the garment produced.

Work aids with abacus type tools and sloped glass bases are being used to calculate the number of defects in apparels which simplifies their complex checking procedures and also minimizes paper and labour wastage.

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Perforated box shaped work aids below the stool of operators on shopfloor

Pyoginam

With 1050 sewing machines spread across 3 different units in Gurgaon and Manesar, Pyoginam has registered consistent annual growth of around 15-20% on self-improvement and best practices in all areas from fabric sourcing to shipment. Headed by Yoginder Mukim and Poonam Mukim, this ISO 9001:2008 certified company,

touches an annual turnover of Rs. 70 crore and makes value added ladies tops in woven fabrics like polyester, chiffon and georgette. Very particular about quality, Pyoginam has a dedicated centre for testing and

controlling quality of fabrics and trims. For easy accessibility of new developments for product development team, an exclusive fabric sample store has been added, adjacent to sample making room where only fabric for sample making has been stored.

Care is taken for controlling issues like expansion of fabric after sewing collar or increase in chest measurement during pilot run with same fabric from actual lot so that all parameters for sewing the garment along with control measures are defined before the mass production in order to prevent rejection and reworks.

Relying on flexibility of operations to cater to quantities ranging from 700 pieces to 1 lakh pieces, Pyoginam uses its 20 years of experience to get efficiencies in all cases. A production planning meeting involving production manager, merchandisers and

maintenance team is carried out prior to starting up any new style with Standard Operating Procedures for production which would include needle type, stitch type and machine type. At the centralized cutting and finishing unit in Manesar, the fabric is cut manually with tissue paper or greige fabric placed after every 15-20 plies so that the fabric does not slip during cutting for accuracy and then transported to the other units for stitching. Since the fabric is delicate and prone to soiling when passed from one operator to another in an assembly line, special stools have been developed for operators to sit which have perforated box shaped work aids below the stool, where the pieces are deposited and on completion of a bundle passed on to the next operator in order to prevent frequent touching of the garment, which usually causes soiling; this also keeps the workplace clean.

A special focus for ensuring quality at Pyoginam is in-house training of both fresh workers and experienced operators. Earlier tailors were recruited on basis of acquaintance and commission given to production managers, the practice has now been stopped and there are impartial tests conducted for recruitment. With this the company gets trainable and educated workforce which has noticeably reduced rework time and margin

of errors. The entire process does not only allow 98% cut to ship ratio but also saves on manpower cost since there is no requirement of production managers to supervise quality checkers. The tailors sewing the garments can usually handle all types of fabrics due to deskilling and experience, but some of them are kept specifically to do only some critical fabrics in which they are very good at. For training freshers, the company has seven-day theory based training programs in areas of spreading, cutting and checking, which include tests like literacy and proper eyesight.

For recruitment of sewing operators, a special test is conducted in which they are asked to construct shirt placket or collar wherein the technical team judges them on various parameters like how are they handling the product; how much time they are taking and their efficiency levels, accordingly they are graded A, B and C. The operator; who has been given ‘A’ grade is paid Rs. 200-400 higher than ‘B’grade operator and so on, this acts as a motivation to go for higher grades by producing more effectively. Yoginder himself monitors the progress of the trainees on a daily basis. “Our training program is so good that our people have been found to have better working knowledge than operators in other export units for the past three years,” says Yoginder proudly.

Focusing on training to handle critical fabrics

Yoginder Mukim, Director

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Tech Talk

Living by the philosophy that the correct choice of fabric, embellishment, detailed designs and quality add to the value of the product, Lilly Fashions with an annual turnover of Rs.20 crore has registered annual growth of 5-10% from its 2 units housing 100 machines. Manufacturing high fashion ladies garments from tops to dresses with heavy sequin embroidery both by machine and hand with

FOB’s between 20-30 Euros, the company caters to mainly Italian buyers followed by France and Spain. Order quantities ranging from 400 to 4000 is being produced.

The company follows 100% inspection from fabric checking to packing stage due to high value of

these garments. The karigars are selected as per the design requirements and also on the basis of requirement of design whether it has to be done by hand or machine. “For quality we produce khaka for every style, which has to be followed by the karigars, some coloured copies or samples which has to be done and also details of inspection procedures,” informs Sandeep Handa, MD, Lilly Fashions.

Fiori Creations produces garments like evening gowns, tops, blouses, and dresses, mostly in fine fabrics with FOB’s starting from 15 dollars and catering majorly to France with order quantities ranging from 200 to 2000 pieces per style. Having 300 sewing machines the core competency of the company headed by Vikramjit

Singh is offering multiple varieties of value additions ranging from hand embroidery, sequins and stone attachments to machine embroidery. The value additions are outsourced to limited number of people identified on the basis of their expertise in different areas

of hand embroidery, Adda work and embellishment attachments.

All benchmarked practices are followed when handling the delicate fabric including 100% checking on glass tables since these fabrics are transparent and spotting defects is too difficult and using metallic clamps while spreading for fabric stability. For sewing the seams, ball point needle with SPI of 2mm while stitching is used in addition to feed dog with more teeth and narrow throat plate. The thread ends are held by hand to prevent being sucked by needle plate with no slackness in fabric while sewing so that no puckering is caused.

Training the operator is critical for handling of fine fabrics, for which NITRA and OGTC consultants have been used, and the emphasis is on quality assurance. In addition to inline and endline checkers, the company even has a group of roving inspectors to keep the rework and rejection range between 5 to 10%.

Heavily sequined garment being done by Lilly Fashions

Lilly Fashions Fiori Creations

Sandeep Handa, MD Vikram Jit Singh, Director

New designs with multiple value adds is the niche

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Analysing Productivity of ‘Back Pocket Attaching in Jeans’ through

As already discussed in our previous article published in February issue of StitchWorld, YouTube has been helpful in many ways, namely the machine selection, analysing the best way to do an operation and assessing the cycle time for the same. These are the issues which can be addressed routinely by analysing the videos on YouTube uploaded by various machine manufacturers and suppliers. The other issues which haunt the industry are improving efficiency and productivity and reducing manpower in a factory in order to deliver on time with better quality.

Automats are the answer to all this and YouTube is a great help in identifying many such solutions available in the market through the analytical study of parameters such as cycle time, operator idle time and man-machine ratio of different make of machines.

Team StitchWorld has picked up three operations – the back pocket attaching, pocket creasing and pocket setting – to guide you to identify through analysis the suitable machine which is economical and does all these operations and more for you.

Back pocket attaching in jeans involve four processes starting from hemming of pocket mouth; decorative sewing on back

pocket; creasing of pocket; and finally the attachment of the pocket to leg panel of a jeans. There are specialized machines for doing all four operations separately, and simultaneously there are also machines combining the multiple operations together for increasing productivity. Automated workstations are designed specifically for mechanising the loading and unloading of panels, while creasing and sewing

is done in cyclic principle. Cyclic principle means operator only starts/actuates the operation; during the operation there is nil or negligible intervention by the operator.

Pocket Mouth Hemming

1 Needle Lockstitch 2 Needles Chainstitch

Brand: VibemacModel: V700 Load Sew Dispose

The automatic pocket hemmer V700 is a double needle chainstitch hemming unit with downturn hemmer. The process starts with the loading of pocket to a conveyor feeding system; the conveyor transports the pocket to sewing head through downturn hemmer and the pocket is hemmed. After pocket hemming, the chains are cut and hemmed pocket is stacked in a small part stacker. Here the loading time per pocket and sewing

Pocket hemming being done by automat from Vibemac-V700 shown on a YouTube video uploaded by Vibemac Spa

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This video shows method of decorative sewing being done by Juki AMS-210EN-2210 uploaded by Daniel Lira de Godoy

Vibemac 1010V4 shown in the video has separate loader to reduce cycle time and increase efficiency uploaded by Vibemac Spa

This video of AMF Reece RPS/F features manual loading and unloading of pocket piece with electronically controlled pattern sewing

time per pocket is approximately 2 seconds. As the operation is continuous and loading and sewing time is equal, there is no idle time for the operator. The production rate for this machine will be 14,400 pockets per 8-hour shift.

Decorative Sewing in Pocket

Decorative stitching is usually done on the back pocket of jeans to enhance the aesthetic sense of the garment. Seen in many designs, the process is done using pattern tacking machines. With an average sewing speed of 2800 SPM, the cycle time per pocket depends on the type of the design and number of stitches in the design. Juki, Vibemac and AMF Reece are some of the popular brands offering solutions for this operation.

Brand: JukiModel: AMS-210EN-2210 Load Sew Dispose

Juki AMS-210EN-2210 has a sewing area of 220 mm x 100 mm and is specifically designed for shape-tacking of jean pockets. The machine stitches at a speed of 2800 STI/minute and is equipped with a computer panel which can store up to 999 patterns for easy pattern selection.

With the help of touch screen control panel, the operator selects the desired pattern from the stored designs. The operator loads the pocket piece under the sewing template, where sewing takes place automatically. After the completion of sewing, the operator unloads the piece. The total time from loading to unloading the pocket panel is 15 seconds. While the operator takes only 5-6 seconds to load one pocket, the actual sewing takes place for 9 seconds; the remaining time that is 1 second, is taken for the unloading of the stitched pocket. This means, that after every loading, the operator is ideal for 8-9 seconds. This ideal time can be utilized if one operator operates two machines in tandem. The machine is capable of producing 3,600 pockets in 8 hours; therefore two machines can produce 7,200 pockets in a shift of 8 hours, hence doubling the worker productivity.

Brand: VibemacModel: 1010V4 Load Sew Dispose

The 1010V4 is a 2 needle lockstitch machine which comes with an option of separate loader, to reduce cycle time and increase efficiency. With the help of double colour technology, it is possible to sew with 2 threads in different colours/thickness in one sewing cycle. Moreover, it is equipped with a touch screen panel with which any pattern can be created onto the screen with ease. The machine has a sewing speed of 2800 SPM (when single colour thread is used) and 2500 SPM in case of double colour thread.

The process is such that the operator loads the pocket and the loader transfers the pocket to the sewing clamp where sewing takes place according to the design fed in the system. While operator takes only 5-7 seconds to load one pocket to loader, the cycle time from loading the pocket to unloading of pocket to stacker is 15 seconds. This means after every loading, operator is idle for 8-10 seconds while the sewing is going on. If we carefully see the sewing operation then we realize that sewing cycle time is approximately 8 seconds, which means machine is capable of decorative stitching of 3,600 pockets per 8-hour shift. If one operator is allowed to operate two machines, then the idle time can be used for loading the second machine and production will double to 7,200 pockets per 8-hour shift using only one operator. Sewing moulds or templates can be easily changed, consuming approximately 3 minutes.

Brand: AMF ReeceModel: RPS/F Series Load Sew Dispose

With manual loading and unloading of pocket piece, RPS/F series is an electronically controlled pattern sewing machine series and offers various models with varied sewing area. The sewing speed ranges between 2300 – 2800 SPM. New control system “F series” eliminates incorrect stitches and ensures “stitch in stitch” at backward sewing also at max speed. A touch screen LCD embedded with RPS – 01 software helps in viewing the

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machine; thus the operation rate for both machines can be maintained at 20 seconds. By utilizing one operator fully to load two machines, total production of 2,880 pockets per 8 hours shift can be achieved easily.

Brand: VibemacModel: 005V Load Sew Dispose

005V is another pocket creasing machine offered by Vibemac, where operator loads the pre-hemmed pocket to the clamp and the clamp carries pocket inside the machine, creasing is done inside the machine and the same clamp unloads the creased pocket to the loading platform in front of the machine. As the loading and unloading happens in the same front platform of the machine, the same operator can load and collect the creased pieces. The total cycle time required for creasing one pocket is approximately 8 seconds, i.e. loading to unloading. However, loading time per pocket is only 4 seconds, which means the operator after loading the pocket can actually operate another machine till the creased pocket comes out of the machine. As the loading time is approximately half of total cycle time of creasing operation, therefore one operator can operate two machines in tandem. If one operator operates single machine then total production will be 3,600 pockets per machine per operator in 8 hours. However, if one operator operates two machines, then production will be 7,200 pockets/8 hours per operator.

coloured working area and all the information regarding the pattern such as number of stitches, sewing speed and all optional functions of machines which are turned on. The operator can see the position of the fabric about to be sewn and can edit the already saved patterns and create new patterns on LCD.

(No video is available for time calculation)

Pocket Creasing

Brand: VibemacModel: V1OO H Load Sew Dispose

Pocket creasing is a non-sewing operation where a decorative sewn and hemmed pocket is placed to get crease marks on three sides prior to the process of pocket setting. Cycle time for creasing one pocket in V100H Pocket Creaser with fullness in centre is 20 seconds; out of which 9 seconds is loading time and rest 11 seconds is creasing and unloading time. In one shift of 8 hours, one machine can crease 1,440 pockets.

It is clear that after loading and adjusting the pocket, the operator is idle for approximately 9-10 seconds. If two machines are operated by one operator in tandem, the operator can very easily utilize the 9-10 seconds of idle time for loading the second

Pocket SettingPocket setting involves operator loading the creased pocket to the machine and rest of the operations are performed by the machine. There are several options available for this operation.

Brand: JukiModel: AVP-875 Load Sew Dispose

Juki AVP-875 pocket setter has clamp on one side where trouser panel and pocket is loaded, and the machine does the rest. The sequence of operations is as follows:

[1] The operator loads the trouser panel; [2] The operator loads the pocket piece (pre-hemmed, pre-decoratively sewn); [3] The operator presses the actuator; [4] The machine first creases the pocket; [5] Another head then places the creased pocket over trouser panel and carries to sewing head; [6] Sewing of pocket; [7] Stacking of sewn pieces.

In above sequence, steps [1] to [3] are loading operations by the operator; steps [4] & [5] are loading and aligning operations by machine; step [6] is actual sewing operation; and step [7] is unloading operation.

Total cycle time from [1] to [7] is 24 seconds; loading by operator, i.e. steps [1] to [3] takes 8 seconds, and

The video of Vibemac V100H shows a hemmed pocket being placed to get crease marks prior to the process of pocket setting by Vibemac Spa

The video of Vibemac 005V shows another pocket creasing machine with different method of functioning uploaded by Bckay

The video shows AVP-875 by Juki which is used for pocket setting uploaded by the sewing group

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Brand/Model Operation Production in 1:1 man- machine ratio

Operator idle time in 1:1 man-machine ratio

Production 1:2 man-machine ratio

Operator idle time in 1:2 man-machine ratio

Vibemac V700 Pocket hemming 14400 0 - -

Juki AMS-210EN-2210 Decorative stitching 3600 8-10 sec 7200 -

Vibemac 1010V4 Decorative stitching 3600 8-10 sec 7200 0 sec

Vibemac 005V Pocket creasing 3600 4 sec 7200 0 sec

Vibemac 2516V4 Attaching pre-pressed pocket to the panel

2400 13 sec 4800 0 sec

Vibemac 2516V4 + 005V + C005V

Creasing + attaching (pre-hemmed and pre-decorative stitched ) pocket to the panel

2400 0 - 0 sec

Juki AVP-875 Creasing + attaching (pre-hemmed and pre-decorative stitched ) pocket to the panel

2057 6 sec 3600 0 sec

Productivity Comparisonsteps [1] to [5] takes 14 seconds. That means after every 14 seconds, the operator can load a new piece to the workstation. The rate of production is 14 seconds, i.e. nearly 2,057 pockets can be attached in one shift of 8 hours of uninterrupted production. We should keep in mind that although the total cycle time is 24 seconds, but due to overlapping actions within the workstation the rate of production is 14 seconds per pocket attach.

If we analyze the operation carefully we realize that for every 14 seconds, the operator is busy 8 seconds but free/idle for 6 seconds (14-8). To engage the operator fully (or to minimize the idle time) one operator can be asked to operate two machines in tandem. As the loading time is 8 seconds and idle time was 6 seconds the effective rate of production will be increased by 2 seconds to 16 seconds, i.e. approximately 1,800 pockets per 8 hours per machine. While one operator and one machine will produce 2,057 pockets, two machines and one operator will produce 3,600 pockets.

It should be noted that a loss of 514 pieces will be incurred if one operator operates two machines. Depending on the other parameters such as daily wages of an operator and CM price per pocket, one can make the choice of having two operators, operating two machines or one operator handling two machines.

Brand: VibemacModel: 2516V4 Load Sew Dispose

The 2516V4 DCT is a double needle lockstitch machine equipped with a shuttle hook and thread trimmer. It applies any kind of pre-pressed patch pockets on jeans. The process is such that the operator loads the trouser panel and the pre-pressed pocket onto the machine, which takes approximately 10 seconds. After the loading, the machine head carries the piece and performs sewing of the pocket to the panel,

and then unload the panel on the stacker. This process takes about 13 seconds. Though the total cycle time is 23 seconds, actual sewing takes place for 12 seconds and thus one can get an output of 2,400 pieces per 8 hours. The operator is idle for complete 13 seconds and can utilize the time to load another machine in tandem, achieving a production of 4,800 leg panels with stitched back pocket.

Brand: VibemacModel: 2516V4 + 005V + C005V Load Sew Dispose

Vibemac 2516V2 + 005V + C005V full set is automatic pocket setter in jeans; here operator loads the trouser panel, then loads the tab (i.e. red tab of Levi’s), then load the pocket (pre-hemmed + pre-decorative stitched) and press the actuator.

Here the total cycle time, from loading the pocket till pocket attached trouser panel is stacked, is approximately 23 seconds. The time required for the operator to load the trouser panel, tab and pocket is 11 seconds. We can see in video that while loading is happening at right side of workstation, sewing head is sewing at the left of the machine.

As the loading station and sewing station is separate, overlapping operation is possible, that means while the sewing of pocket is going on, the loading clamp is free and operator can load the second pocket. The pocket setting time is approximately 12 seconds, which means 2,400 pockets can be sewn per machine. Here operator loads the trouser panel and then load the tab approximately taking 2 sec, the loading of creased pocket is automatic and then automatically moved to sewing head. After loading the tab the operator loads pocket to creasing unit. As the loading of trouser panel and tab takes approximately 8-11 seconds, the operator gets time to load the pocket creasing unit at the extreme right side of the workstation. Here the operator is not idle for any substantial amount of time, and operating, creasing and pocket setting operations are done together.

Pre-pressing patch pocket on jeans by 2516V4 DCT displayed in one of the videos uploaded by Vibemac Spa

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MARCH 2014 StitchWorld 3131 StitchWorld MARCH 2014

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Ludhiana exploring new growth trackKnitWorld International 2014

he latest edition of KnitWorld saw more than 125 companies display their products for over 25,000 visitors who thronged the venue. The highlight of the show were the numerous new technologies from shoe upper knitting machines of Narinder International to the vertical computerized embroidery machine of Nantex Machineries as also the continuously developing semi-automatic indigenous flat knitting machines that exhibitors introduced at the three-day event. Keeping in line with the great turnout that the fair has seen in the last few years, big names like Oster, Superfine Knitters, Eve-Line, Duke, Vallabh Fabriks, Sobhagia Sales (Sportking) and the like were amongst the visitors, as were teams from Ludhiana’s rapidly growing medium and small level companies.

Ludhiana is the undisputed king of the domestic market in knitted products; both flat as well as circular knitting, and out of the estimated total business of Rs. 11,000 crore in knitted garments in the domestic market, Ludhiana has a share of almost 80 per cent. In an effort to retain and even increase this share, even unorganized players are eager for advanced technologies as they look forward to future expansion, although their inclination is towards more cost-effective Chinese machines. Medium level domestic players in Ludhiana are gradually stepping into export and are adding 2 to 3 machines every year to match the need in production. Spencer Knitwears, in process of shifting its factory, is also adding 4 new flat knitting machines this year. “Our export business motivates us to start our new factory in industrial area and enhance our capacity also,”

says Sandeep Thapar, partner in

the company.

Even when the primary focus was on

knitting solutions, other technologies

also had their fair share of exposure

including stitching and value adding

machines. Many companies were

looking for appropriate technologies,

and while Swami Knitwears was

fascinated in sublimation printing

machines, Indian Clothing Company,

which is planning to foray into socks

manufacturing, were interested in

machines from Soloman Industries.

Already having 80 machines, Noor

Garments is planning to add another

30-40 stitching machines this year.

Many fabric vendors are also now

entering into garment manufacturing

like Gupta Textiles/Krishan Gopal and

Brothers, which is producing 2 tonnes

of fabric every day, but is currently

outsourcing its requirement of 300

garments per day. Jay-Jay, Acrowears

Knitfab and Sethi Knit Fab are some

more names in this space.

While the small players were happy,

bigger players were left wanting for

more. “We want to experiment with

new yarns and blends, so we can

widen our product basket, but we

did not find any machines that

address this need,” said Rajan

Jain, heading RK Oswal Hosiery

Factory. The fair also witnessed

few visitors from other regions like

Manmohandas Inani, CEO, Fusion

Sportswear & Uniforms, Hyderabad

and Sanjay Gupta, Director, Sas

Exports, Panipat, to the delight of

the exhibitors. While Manmohandas

was looking for multi-purpose

machine for collar, rib and sweater

manufacturing and digital transfer

machine, Sanjay's priority was for

circular knitting machine.

“KnitWorld International 2014 witnessed 25,000 visitors and only 10 per cent of them were out of Ludhiana/Punjab. We have remained true to our commitment to bring together the user and manufacturer and supplier of technology in an effective way.” narinder Mohan, organizer, Knitworld international exhibition

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An overview of KnitWorld 2014

Offers comprehensive range of knitting technologies to the growing Ludhiana industry

KnitWorld International 2014

The 20th edition of KnitWorld was a success for both the participants and the visitors. It was bigger with many new and old technology manufacturers showcasing their technology from all parts of the world. Characteristically, as is the case with Ludhiana, most of the participants were flat knitting machine manufacturers, with the circular knitting technology having little but strong representation.

In StitchWorld’s coverage of KnitWorld last year, we had highlighted how indigenous semi-automatic machines, with their cost to productivity advantage, had forced the phase out of labour-dependent hand flat machines. Now it seems that the advantage of semi-automatic manufacturers has been lost to the much more versatile Chinese

single system fully automatic machines, which were the major attraction for new start-ups at the fair. Costing approximately Rs. 5 lakh, these machines are much more of a value for money proposition than the semi-automatic machines which were being roughly presented for Rs. 2-2.25 lakh and are extremely limited in the structures they can knit, whereas the fully automatic single system machine, which is the most basic technology in the fully automatic flat knitting universe, can do all the designs like jacquard, intarsia, transfer, decca, at a notch higher productivity than its semi-automatic counterparts. Such machines are fast becoming the first choice, surpassing the semi-automatics, for upstarts and for those who are planning to replace their hand flats.

Jagdish Kumar Jangra, Owner of JK Jangra, who has been in the business of semi-automatic knitting solutions for over 50 years, acknowledges the threat posed by the growing popularity of single system fully computerized machines. “Even though the single system machines have not yet been able to establish themselves in the market, but they are surely going to make the market very competitive for us,” he says. However, Krishan Mastana, Owner of GK Mastana International, is still optimistic of weathering off this threat. “Manufacturers of T-shirts who only need collars or ribs, or basic sweater manufacturers like the ones producing for school uniforms, will continue to choose semi-automatic machines as the single automatic machines only

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Automatic double and triple system flat knitting to replace semi-automatic and hand flats due to price and productivity advantage

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have the advantage in terms of designing more patterns; productivity wise we are equal to them, plus we are more readily available for service and support,” he reasons.

For companies making fully fashioned products like ladies cardigans or sweaters, the double system flat knitting machines are ideal for knitting fully fashioned panels and theoretically they work at twice the speed. Priced at around US $ 20,000, these machines are the choice replacement for the lower technology. There is no dimensional difference between single system and double system machines. The productivity difference between the two technologies widens with the increase in the complexity of the structures to be knit.

Double system machines, in spite of being the market leader, are bested by triple system machines when it comes to efficiency. Nearly all machine manufacturers who have double system flat knitting machine in their catalogue also sell triple system machines. The advantage of using double head machine is that they can knit two panels at the same time. However, contrary to the popular belief, it doesn’t mean double the productivity.

The real advantage of these machines is when you use both the heads in “tandem” on the same long panel, for example a double head triple system machine can work as a six system machine. Even though productivity is one of the chief factors, the quality of the output, the longevity of the machine, and most importantly the price, are three aspects that influence a customer’s decision in Ludhiana. Chinese

manufacturers have been able to make their mark on each of these purchasing deciders. Earlier a Chinese machine was sold on the cost advantage only, but today many Chinese brands have been able to gain the local knitter’s trust in terms of quality too, a feat which was unthinkable just 5 years back.

Few premium companies like Shima Seiki, which are the front runners in technology, set precedents which are difficult for low cost machine manufacturers to replicate. Moreover, through their innovations, they guide the industry of various possibilities with the technology. “We aim to educate customers on the versatility of the technology and present them with options that widen their understanding of different products, ranging from woollen sweaters to fine knit evening gowns in varied yarn compositions and even fashionwear from the unique ‘Wholegarment’ concept. “The collection of options available for users of the technology is immense,” said Ashwani Behl, President, Janakson International, sole dealer of Shima Seiki in India.

Ludhiana has the reputation of being the “sweater capital of the country”, so flat knitting is undisputedly preferred; and secondly, a circular knitting machine is a much heavier investment than flat knitting, therefore the Chinese seem to have totally captivated the circular knitting segment. Apart from the single jersey and double jersey machines for fabric for T-shirts, circular knitting machines which can produce fleece like fabric for blankets were also in demand.

Lovedip Singh Longia, Textile Machinery Division, Voltas

his product. “Tata Group is an established symbol of reliability all over the country, so it is obvious that we would not join hands with anything but the best. These machines are no doubt Chinese, but they are no less than the European machines in productivity. The principle is a respected corporate group which manufactures 25 to 30 thousand machines in a year,” adds Lovedip.

positioned our single system fully computerized machines for the upstarts or for those who are trying to move from hand flats to automatic solutions. The semi-automatic machines, which were until now the only low cost option, are no match to our product which offers a much better cost to value advantage, as they overcome all their limitations at a nominal hike in price.”

The LXC-131 from LongXing is a deft single system knitting machine with widen

knitting width and gauge range from 5G to 16G. Fast and stable carriage rotary system can make knitting faster and more efficient. The machine is perfect for basic patterns like plain stitch, rib fabric, link-and-links, and at the same time can knit fancy patterns like jacquard, eyelet stitch, cable, racked and plush stitch.

Though, LongXing would face tough competition in penetrating the Ludhiana market, as there is already a presence of numerous other Chinese machines manufacturers in the market, Lovedip is confident of

Voltas presents LongXing’s entry level single system machine for upstarts

Tata Group’s Voltas Limited presented flat knitting machines of Chinese brand, LongXing from parent company Jiangsu Jinlong Technology Co. Ltd. at the show. The Chinese company has been the recipient of many awards including the “National Torch Program Project” and “China’s Well-known Trademark”.

Lovedip Singh Longia, representing the company at the fair said, “We have

Knitting Technologies on display…

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unlike other parts of India, where the company did not face much competition, Ludhiana is a tough market, since the region is on the radar of every Chinese flat knitting manufacturer. “The real challenge is to satisfy the price-sensitive nature of the manufacturers here,” highlights Kalidas.

ZJC-211P from Zoje Falcon, which was on display, is a single system single carriage three-working-position flat knitting machine, suitable for tuck, single-side and double-side jacquard. The machine can also do transfer, connecting, with the ability to complete the two operations, knitting and tuck, within one row, so as to improve productivity. The needle plate is formed by groove rolling and inserts are put into the lower part of the plate, so that the fabric stitch can be more uniform. An easy to understand monitor screen is backed by a power-off protect device, with auto memory and resuming memory function in sudden power-off situation. This function can help to continue with the remaining knitting when the power resumes.

Zoje Falcon makes its debut in the Ludhiana market

Jiangsu Zoje Machinery Technology Co. Ltd., one of the top 500 Chinese private enterprises, and owner of the popular brand Zoje, famous for its sewing machines in the country, has partnered with Surat based manufacturer of embroidery machines, Golden Falcon, to introduce a range of flat knitting solutions by the name of Zoje Falcon. The company showcased its fully computerized flat knitting machines, for the first time in Ludhiana, at the recently held KnitWorld.

“In just one-and-a-half years since the company’s inception, our machines have received a promising response from all over the country. Many T-shirt manufacturers in Tirupur are using our single system machines for collars and ribs. However, Ludhiana is a new turf for us. We are accessing the buyer’s preferences through the fair, before we aggressively market ourselves in this region,” averred R.S. Kalidas, Vice President, Golden Falcon. However,

R.S. Kalidas (centre), Vice President, with Zoje Falcon team

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Yushuhiro Morimoto, Assistant Manager, Knitting Machine Sales Section, Shima Seiki; Ashwani Behl, President, Janaksons Intl.; and Vaibhav Behl, VP, Janaksons Intl. surrounded by the Janakson’s team

Visitors keening observing Shima Seiki SSR 112SV G flat knitting machine

Shima Seiki offers affordable SSR series for the price-sensitive Ludhiana market

Coming from Japan, a leader in flatbed knitting and whole-garment technology, Shima Seiki has a formidable 62% share in the global market. Represented in India by Janaksons International, and continuing with its new generation technologies to provide easy but faster solutions for complex operations while adding value to them at the same time, Shima Seiki was present at KnitWorld with its knitting solutions as well as its software innovation SDS ONE.

“The response to our machines has been tremendous. On display is a state-of-the-art flat knitting machine with maximum 40 induction feeders. Secondly, to cater to the price-sensitive nature of this market, we are also displaying our economy model,” said Ashwani Behl, President, Janakson International.

The affordable SSR series from the company offers increased productivity with a maximum knitting speed

of 1.2 metres per second, as well as a R2CARRIAGE System that achieves quicker carriage returns. It also carries proven Shima Seiki technology such as Digital Stitch Control System (DSCS), spring-loaded Full-Sinker System, Stitch Presser, Yarn Gripper and Cutter, and Takedown Comb. The, first ever digital stitch device DSCS, used in the machine, can be programmed with the desired loop length after which it monitors yarn consumption continuously and adjusts yarn feed and tension to yield consistency throughout the fabric to within a remarkable ±1% tolerance. The result is quality control that is essential to ‘shaping’ and integral to garment production.

The SV variant of SSR offers wide gauge capability that allows a variety of gauges to be knit on a single machine. This gives the freedom to handle changing seasons and shifting trends without investing in a machine for every gauge or resorting to the complex, time-consuming task of gauge conversion.

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Ludhiana, being a price-sensitive market, one would assume that it is a tough battle ground for high-end machines from Shima Seiki, as against the much cheaper Chinese alternatives, but Ashwani disagrees. “When the Chinese machines entered the market, many price-conscious buyers got trapped by them. Today they are coming back to us. Our machines have 40 to 45% higher productivity than them, at the same time a Shima Seiki machine will easily last for more than 35 years,” he reasons.

Shima Seiki’s new focus is on the software, SDS®-ONE APEX3, a specialized hardware/ software system from Shima Seiki, which encompasses an entire pre-production and post-production solution for a

company specializing in knitting, from yarn design to retail promotion. With its ability to support all aspects from planning, design, sampling and production to machine programming, merchandising and sales promotion, SDS®-ONE APEX3 has established its reputation as an all-in-one apparel design tool.

SDS®-ONE APEX3’s virtual sampling capabilities permit accurate evaluation using photo-realistic simulations without the need for costly and time-consuming preproduction sampling. For even more effective virtual sampling, it features 3D modelling capability as products can be checked in 3D using 3D simulation, 3D modelling, 3D fitting simulation and 3D mapping.

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K.P. Exim presented solutions from sister companies, Cixing and Steiger

Since its acquisition by Cixing, Steiger has shifted its manufacturing base to China, making way for competitive machines although retaining the design and development centre at Switzerland. Complementing each other’s product portfolio with clearly demarcated market segments, Steiger machines cater to high-end and quality products, with its expertise in Intarsia knitting, while Cixing is more for mass produce.

The various models of Cixing which featured in KnitWorld 2014 were HP2-45C, HP2-52C, and HP2-56C with knitting widths of 45 inches, 52 inches and 56 inches, respectively. These models of HP series have single carriage and double system and are equipped with advanced devices of yarn cutting and comb. By segment control and adjustable roller speed, complex patterns of weaving can be created with different fabric take-down needs, working along with comb device effectively to reduce yarn wastage and improve production efficiency. The machine

Gurpreet Singh (centre), MD, K.P. Exim, with other company executives

also has automatic oiling and dust cleaning devices and it can be upgraded to 32 yarn feeders’ pattern automatically; further all yarn carriers can work effectively without having any crossing problem. The machine also has dynamic stitch function which allows modifying stitch tension of fabric during same row of fabric and dynamic speed function which helps in machine carriage speed changing in same row of pattern, reducing production time up to 20%. Adding about effectiveness of machine, Manohar Singh, Technical Engineer of K.P. Exim, explained that the machine also possesses effective sinker system which makes function of sinker adjustable, according to knitting, to control along with scissors and nips which help in cutting fabric and reducing yarn wastage.” The positive yarn storage reduces resistance of yarn while moving and is suitable for fabrics which lack elasticity such as cashmere yarn and rabbit hair yarn.

Steiger showcased New Aries 3.130, an open chariot, direct yarn feeding system from top along with 3 systems cambox which is single head.

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ATE showcases 4 colour auto-striper from Tayu

Contrary to the popular belief that Ludhiana is majorly a flat knitting destination, ATE emphasized a huge market for circular knitting machines when they presented circular knitting solutions from Tayu Knitting Machinery Company, which was founded in Taiwan and now has a Chinese manufacturing base with an annual output of more than 800 knitting machines per year. The company which had presented a basic single jersey knitting machine last year at the fair chose to showcase a more value adding product this year in the form of TY-SES4, a single jersey 4 colour auto striper knitting machine. Vikas Sharan, Vice-President – Textile Engineering Knitting, was ecstatic with the response that the machine had generated at the event. “The response to the machine has been phenomenal. There are many other circular knitting machines at the fair, but none can handle lycra with the same finesse as this machine can,” he said.

The TY-SES4 is available in diameter from 30” to 34”, with

the gauge ranging from 18 to 28. The machine has 64 feeders in 30” and 72” feeders in 34” dia. The machine is ideal for manufacturing plain jersey, pique fabrics, all four track designs and elastane fabrics. Upbeat Sharan added, “All the technicians that have come and seen this machine have been thoroughly impressed because this doesn’t look like a machine coming out of China. We might be slightly more expensive than our Chinese counterparts, but that is because the technology and the input, like the metallurgy of the material, the knitting elements, and the textile head are of much superior quality.”

Inspired by the success in Bangladesh, where more than 500 Tayu machines have been sold, ATE is gearing up to reach every manufacturing region in India with this machine. “With Tayu, ATE has a complete range of circular knitting machines, with which we can address the requirements of all the markets in India. Also, ATE has an all India service infrastructure to handle complaints, which further aids us in servicing new regions,” said Sharan.

Frank Shao (left), General Manager, Tayu Machine with Vikas Sharan, VP, Textile Engineering Knitting

and can also be turned into open width machine if it is customized. The double jersey circular knitting machines with models XLD-A and XLD-B have gauges of 15-21 needles and 16-42 needles per inch, and 1.8 feeders and 2.1 feeders, respectively with 2 track dial cams, 4 track cylinder cams which can be adjusted independently. Apart from these, the company showcased single and double electronic computerized jacquard machines with XLJ and XLD series having 30-38 inches diameter and 18-28 needles per inch with 72 feeders at the maximum capacity.

Designing can be done in 3 technical ways making quick switchover among knit, tuck and miss stitches. Optional feature of elastic yarn feeding device is also present with the machine for using elastane or lycra yarns for making slacks or leggings. Similarly the company has open width single and double jersey circular knitting machines with XLSO and XLDO series with various combinations of diameter, gauge and feeders for making various weave patterns with gears adapted to oil-soaking design. Yarns like pure cotton, synthetic fibre, silk, artificial fur can be processed in all of the above machines.

Shishi Xinlong circular knitting machines attract attention

Among the first timers, Shishi Xinlong has come to India with its circular knitting machines with focus on production, sales and service. The machines have ergonomic touching panel, intelligent production system and simple operation. Tina, Marketing Head of Shishi Xinlong Circular Knitting Machines, is fully aware of the importance of Ludhiana market. “The company believes Ludhiana to be a great platform to feature their machines since majority of domestic market of knitted products is based in this part of India,” she said.

The company displayed many circular knitting machines and the machines which received maximum attention were the single jersey circular knitting machines with models XLS-A and XLS-B, both having diameter of 14 inches, gauge of 14-44 and 18-32 needles with 3 and 4 feeders, respectively. These machines have 4 track cams and use universal needles and have 136 sections rolling, folding and take down, and are multifunctional machines which can convert to 3 thread fleece machine or terry machine by changing parts

Tina, Marketing Head, Shishi Xinlong, in conversation with clients

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Omex presents innovative machines in the semi-automatic segment

The representation of Ludhiana’s local machine manufacturers was led by Omex Mechanical Works at the KnitWorld. The company which is in operations since 1973 in Ludhiana, presented its semi-computerized flat bed knitting machine at the fair, ideal for ladies cardigans.

Talking about the response at the fair, Harish Daffu, the Owner of the company, shared, “The business was a bit cold for the past few months but the fair is good for us as we have received many new responses, as we have presented some innovative machines in the semi-

fabric rollover, yarn breakage, or knot formation, these machines are equipped with special stainless steel feeders which minimize friction and maintain yarn tension. Omex machines have a delta drive that takes single phase input and converts it into three phase output.

spare parts for the same on state-of-the-art CNC machines using certain patented technologies. The company manufactures machines with the bed width ranging from 28” to 110”, and from 5 gauges to 15 gauges. Equipped with stop motion function in case of needle breakage, fabric falling,

Harish Daffu (2nd from left), Owner, Omex with clients at the fair

automatic segment, including one with auto jacquard which can make fashioned collars, instead of the solid coloured collars expected out of such machines.” Explaining the advantage of his machine over the advanced Chinese machines which have dominated the market, Daffu said, “If one requires collars or ribs or basic sweaters or cardigans, it is of no use investing Rs. 10-12 lakh in a computerized machine. The semi-automatic machines are competent enough to give reasonably good quality and comparable productivity and are available at the nominal price of Rs. 2 lakh.”

Omex has 4 units in Ludhiana, manufacturing more than 22 models of semi-computerized flat bed knitting machines and

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and sewing needles. The company has reached such heights that even its competitors don’t feel shy in acknowledging its position as the market leader, and

competition, and feels no pressure from the numerous other brands now entering the market. “Our competitors might offer needles at a cheaper price, but at the end

The pinnacle of success for any brand is when

the product begins to be identified by its name. Groz-Beckert, world’s leading provider of industrial needles, precision components and fine tools, which has been providing services to the garment industry for over 150 years, has become a synonym for knitting

as a standard which other companies use to compare the quality of their products.

The company is a regular participant at the KnitWorld exhibition, as it eyes Ludhiana to be one of the crucial markets in India. Parveen Gulati, Area Incharge – North India, Division Knitting Machine Parts says, “Ludhiana is a very important market for us as it is going through a changeover scenario with manufacturers moving from hand flats to computerized flat knitting machines. At the same time, they have become conscious to fabric quality, productivity and their brand image.”

Groz-Beckert is far ahead of the curve when it comes to

Groz-Beckert Leading the market with innovative and consistent solutions

Team Groz-Beckert: (L to R) Gurpreet Singh, Senior Officer Sales; Praveen Gulati – Area Incharge North India; Vishal Nayyar, Branch Office Incharge; Rajan Bansal, Area Incharge, Ludhiana; and Sukhwinder Kumar, Senior Officer Sales

“The quality in a needle is all about consistency. There is no variation in different lots of our needles, something our competitors cannot achieve.” — Parveen Gulati, Area Incharge – North India, Knitting Machine Parts

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An industry requires support from all its supply chain partners for its success and Ludhiana knitting industry has all the key players from all over the world ready to help it retain its growth path. StitchWorld discusses some of the player who showcased at KnitWorld.

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of the day, the cost per kg of panel that you get out of Groz-Beckert needle will be much lesser than that from our competitor,” argues Parveen. He further adds, “The quality in a needle is all about consistency. There is no variation in different lots of our needles, something our competitors cannot achieve.”

Cylinder changes on large circular knitting machines are often difficult, labour-intensive and time consuming. The Groz-Beckert Cylinder Master, an innovation for cylinder changes on large circular knitting machines, is a solution to this problem, which promises fast and safe changes with a unique lifting tool and an easy, user-friendly handling.

The Groz-Beckert Cylinder Master consists of multi-component guide rails and a winch secured to the feeder assembly. The winch is used to lift out the cylinder or lower it into place. The guide rail is used to move the cylinder easily and safely once it has been raised for removal. The standard equipment package includes not only a fixture for fastening at the feeder assembly, but also a fixing cross with three extending arms.

The company’s litespeed needle is a lightweight solution to reduce carbon footprint. Due to its optimized needle shank geometry, the needle is more resistant to breakage at higher machine speed. The energy consumption and machine temperature are reduced by up to 20%, thus substantially reducing carbon footprint.

Rajasthan International presents new range of products from Memminger and Siliconi Commerciale

Rajasthan International which has been

providing solutions to the technical needs of the garment industry, which includes needles from Groz-Beckert, cutting blade knives from Maier Unitas, steam irons and vacuum tables from Comel, for over the past 50 years, displayed new range of products from Memminger-IRO for fabric quality control and Siliconi for eco-friendly spray.

of manufacturing, so that the final product is defect-free. Apart from this, the scanner can be linked online to software for identification of error and even monitoring downtime,” informed Stefan Maier, Area Sales Manager, Memminger-IRO.

Another new product Electronic Feeder EFS-620 has been developed for flat knitting machines where elastane is used, to reduce requirement of basic

(L to R) Stefan Maier, Area Sales Manager, Memminger-IRO; T. Senthil Kumar, Technical Head; and Rajesh Biyani, MD, Rajasthan International

of power and labour, people are preferring Uniwave which has electronic PCB and is more appropriate for areas with low power fluctuations,” informed Maier.

To simplify the selection procedure for their products at customer end, the company has a team of engineers to analyze the situation of any factory and then suggest the products that will give maximum output and saving in terms of average hourly production and ROI. The company strategy for training in case of installation of their products has been to train middle and top level managers for two days. “We simulate some faults in the machine to test the employees’ action and response to the situation,” avers Maier.

Siliconi Commerciale started the production of technical sprays in 1957 and since then it has been continuously expanding its range of products as per the demand of market. Apart from displaying their product range – including lubricants and greases aerosols, zinc galvanizing aerosols, protective penetrants aerosols, detergents, cleaners aerosols, stain, adhesive, sealants aerosols and glues and removers and sliding aerosols which are suitable for textile embroidery, screen printing, graphic art, on all textile types including knits – Silicone Commerciale featured its wide range of green aerosol which are solvent free and eco-friendly.

material resulting in more lightweight garments and more stable collar and cuffs. The yarn tension sensor, in-built in the machine, measures yarn tension. The company’s new lubricant Projectile 419 received good response. “Projectile 419 is more suited for areas having frequent power fluctuations since it uses pneumatic air compressing method for storing air with help of a generator which regulates air flow. But with increasing cost

Memminger-IRO has been a market leader for the last 50 years in processing technology for yarn in feeding, control systems and lubrication technology for knitting machines; at the fair they displayed some of their new patents and developments like fabric scanner, electronic yarn feeder and lubricators. “With our new LMW fabric scanner, faults in fabric like holes or needle lines can be easily detected at the time

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Organ Needles making its way into the crowded Ludhiana market

in embroidery needles. The company was represented at KnitWorld by their agent Global Knitting Needs, and J. Karthikeyan from the company was delighted at the response that the products received. “Organ has entered this market only in 2013, but the response at the fair clearly tells that customers have started to identify Organ as a high quality brand,” says a satisfied looking Karthikeyan.

Besides leading global brands, the fair also witnessed a big turnout of Chinese needle manufacturers, yet Karthikeyan confidently said that Organ was under no pressure from them. “Organ is a Japanese company with

J. Karthikeyan, MD, Global Knitting Needs (C) with his team, and principals

A company with a long history, Organ Needle Co.

Ltd., which set its foundation as a manufacturer of gramophone needles in Tokyo in 1920, has always addressed the need for technology development in a global market. Presently, Organ has a vast product basket of needles suitable for circular, flat and warp knitting. The company is among the market leaders

almost 100 years experience in making needles. The only competition we have, be it in quality or sales, is from market leader Groz-Beckert,” he admitted. The company was displaying its innovative series of Vosapec flat knitting

needles at the fair, targeting the specific needs of the industry.

Karthikeyan further asserts that Global Knitting Needs is optimistic to penetrate the Indian market riding on the efficiency of its 50 member service team.

Dhaval Color Chem (DCC) has over the years forged

strategic tie-ups with the world’s best names in printing to offer complete printing solutions of international standards. The company has been in the business of screen printing supplies for over a quarter of a century and has the unique distinction of being amongst the only companies in India that provides a one-stop solution for all screen printing needs.

“Without any comparison to other markets, Ludhiana is also an important market for our company. In recent times, the manufacturers in this region have become more conscious about quality and productivity, and are now turning to automatic solutions

in all departments, including printing,” said Narendra Dadia, Founder and Owner of DCC.

In the screen printing division, DCC provides a range of printing machines starting from manual machines to very high-end automatic printing machine with the ability to handle up to 60 colours. “Our screen printing solutions at the fair have received astounding queries, however the product portfolio at DCC is not just limited to that, the company also sells digital printers, sublimation printers and focuses on providing turnkey projects synchronized with the best products and technology from all over the world,” averred Narender.

The Monti Antonio 120 T, on display, was an innovative and

transfer/reactivation on both rolls and panels.

The other solution at the stall was Epson Sure Color F6070. Epson has entered the dye sublimation printing market with the introduction of its newest line of Sure Color F-Series Printers. The new F-Series includes two roll-fed dye sublimation printers, the Sure Color F6070 44” and Sure Color F7070 64”. The new Sure Color F-Series uses Epson’s Micro Piezo TFP Print Head, which is already well-known within the dye sublimation market. Epson Ultra Chrome DS Ink is a newly engineered aqueous ink that produces stunning images and rich colours, deep blacks and also smooth gradations in colour. The new Epson DS Inks are packaged in 1 litre bags that fill the printer’s ink tanks. Prints produced on textiles by the Sure Color SC F-Series printers also exhibit excellent light- and wash-fastness, as well as resistance to light abrasion and perspiration.

versatile printing calender (movable on wheels) suitable for both the transfer of dye sublimation inks from paper to materials to be printed, and for the reactivation of inks directly printed on textile by means of plotters. It is supplied complete with front preparation table, allowing the

Narendra Dadia, Founder and Owner of DCC

Dhaval Color Chem Ludhiana finds a one-stop solution for its printing needs

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Ashwani Sehgal, President and CEO, Alpex

Alpex looking to overtake Ludhiana market with a wide range of needles from Samsung

Having started the journey as an importer

and distributor of spandex yarn, and then moving into knitting needles after sensing opportunity in the fast evolving Indian knitting industry, Alpex has come a long way as a leading solution provider to the knitting industry. Today, the company has four distinct business divisions – spandex yarns, knitting needles, solar panel manufacturing and wind energy generation.

The company was present at the recently held KnitWorld displaying innovative needles from its principal Samsung. “The response at the fair has been quite promising. We have the widest portfolio of products. Besides needles, we offer other knitting components like jacks, sinkers, transfer needles, warp knitting needles and many other high precision parts catering

to knitting industry,” says Ashwani Sehgal, President and CEO of Alpex, the sole agent and distributor of Korean based Samsung Knitting Needles in India, which Ashwani claims is the second largest manufacturers of needles, closely following the market leader Groz-Beckert. Currently, the company has a deep assortment of 2700 types of needles for various applications.

The company attributes its success in the knitting industry to the fact that it does not deal with any sub-dealers but directly interacts with its buyers. “Accepting that India is a key market, we have major presence in the country with network offices in all textile/knitting hubs of Delhi, Mumbai, Tirupur, Ludhiana, Ahmedabad, Surat and Kolkata, so that we can give prompt service to our customers,” says Sehgal. The company is supplying knitting needles to some of the biggest names in the industry like Superfine, Pratibha Syntex, Arvind Mills, Oswal Group, Nahar Industries, Eastman Exports, SP Apparels, Defiance Industries, SPL, OWM and Krishna Intertex. “We are working with more than 3,300 knitters/exporters for our products and the trust that we have earned only goes to endorse the product and service that we offer,” adds Sehgal.

The abundance of Chinese competitors does not worry Ashwani who says, “Needle manufacturing is a very complicated process, involving as many as 150 processes. The quality requirements are too high for home grown Chinese manufacturers to match. Samsung has all the know-how, to manufacture a quality product as it has been making needles for more than 100 years.

Optitex showcases CAD/CAM and 3D simulation software

Rajiv Sud, Sales Manager, Optitex

In a situation where customer demands are forcing the

buyer today to produce more complicated styles in small order quantities and in much shorter durations, a manufacturer has no choice but to turn to technology and automation. 2D/3D CAD is a tool which has the potential to drastically reduce time to market and Optitex has been a pioneer in such solutions for the past 20 years.

A regular participant at fairs held around the country, Optitex has been the leading developer of 2D and 3D solutions for textile, industrial fabrics, apparel, upholstery, transportation, composites, homes furnishings and other sewn products. In a market crowded with many software providers, Rajiv Sud, Sales Manager, Optitex, tells how the software differentiates itself, “One of the new attractions of our software is the chat box that we have

developed that can translate up to 16 languages. We can invite our buyer on the other end, he can write his suggestions in Chinese and it will be seen here in Hindi, as the Indian pattern master can understand Hindi better. This works vice versa also.”

One of the leading solutions from the company is its 3D suite. However, marketing such a breakthrough process is very hard. “Yes, initially the manufacturers were apprehensive to replace physical sampling with 3D sampling, but that is slowly changing. Today, most buyers prefer to work through 3D sampling to cut down the lead time,” says Rajiv.

The highly popular, Optitex 3D suite is a collection of applications that can create photorealistic 3D garments, fit them on an incredibly customizable avatar, and even animate them for dynamic, eye-catching presentations. One can bring flat patterns, turn them into 3D samples and reduce the number of times previously needed to create physical samples. This drastically cuts the time spend on each sample, the cost associated, as well as the hassle of scheduling and organizing numerous fit sessions. This means fewer samples, increased precision and uniformity of product line’s fit, and drastically shortened time-to-market.

Optitex has strategized to introduce its products in institutes, thus creating a workforce, well versed and comfortable with their software.

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Monika Traders exhibit a range of needles with affordable prices under the brand name Neetex

Tirupur based Monika Traders presented in

KnitWorld range of flat knitting needles, sock knitting needles, circular knitting and glove knitting needles under the Korean brand Neetex, offering needles specially developed for circular knitting machines dealing in hosiery, circular type needles for single jersey, ribbed and interlock fabric constructions, depending on the fabric type along with needles for embroideries and raschel in jacquard knitting machines. Recently they have developed many new long knitting needles, one of the series being of VO-941.52G00 9,10,11,12 which are being used for circular knitting machines manufacturing pile fabrics.

Monika Traders have been the sole selling agent of Neetex needles in India for the past 27 years and P. C. Sethuram representing the company feels that the demand for new knitting machines has slowed down. “People are now not investing in buying new machines, since they are manufacturing lesser fabric than their actual

capacity, due to which the market of needles and spare parts has jacked up and we are not able to meet the demands,” says Sethuram. Having major presence in Maharashtra where they claim to have 60% market share, the brand is also popular in West Bengal and Tirupur. The major companies which are buying needles from them are RM

Knitters, Neera Cotton, Sreeja Knitters in Maharashtra while in Southern India they have more than 2000 customers primarily being Eastman Exports, Gagun Knitwears, Classic Knitwears to name a few. In the Ludhiana market, the brand is now taking deep roots and going forward the

company is looking to further improve upon its service levels for wider reach.

The company has appointed dealers across India with central points in Surat, Kolkata, Noida and Tirupur. Internationally, they have agents in South Africa, Sri Lanka and Bangladesh to meet the demand of customers.

R. Anand, Sales Manager (L); P.C. Sethuram, Proprietor (R) with a client (in the centre)

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Career Oriented Training Programs for Apparel Industry Professionals – I

Six Sigma Training Institutes

Today businesses are taking corporate training to new levels by offering Six Sigma

training to their key leaders and front-line employees. Developed by Dr. Mikel Harry, formerly of Motorola Inc., the Six Sigma methodology uses complex yet clear-cut measurement tools to help businesses improve on weaknesses and build on their strengths. Six Sigma simply means a measure of quality that strives for near perfection. The statistical representation of Six Sigma describes that a process must not produce more than 3.4 defects per million opportunities.

The two most common methodologies used under Six Sigma is DMAIC (Define, Measure, Analyse, Improve, Control), which is an improvement system for existing processes falling below specification and looking for incremental improvement; the other method is DMADV (Define, Measure, Analyse, Design, Verify), which is an improvement system used to develop new processes or products at Six Sigma quality levels. The main advantage of Six Sigma compared to other approaches to quality control is that Six Sigma is customer-driven.

Six Sigma addresses the entire process behind the production of an item or completion of a service, rather than just the final outcome. It is proactive rather than reactive, as it sets out to determine how improvements can be made even before defects or shortcomings are found.

Six Sigma certification is awarded under different “belts” which is a measure of expertise in the concept and are colour coded as Yellow, Green, Black and Master Black Belts. Yellow being the most basic doesn’t get many takers as nothing much can be achieved in an organization at this novice level and people typically go for the higher belts. The Yellow Belt is trumped by the Green Belt. People with this certification are the ones who gather all the necessary information, do a majority of experiments and tests throughout the project. The main goals of a Green Belt are to ensure the success of the training techniques and lead smaller improvement projects. The Six Sigma Green Belt is generally an individual who does project management or process improvement work in addition to his or her current work responsibilities.

Career enhancement is the aspiration of each and every professional, irrespective of the industry they are into, but why would a company promote a person to a managerial or higher position without greater deliverables and job responsibilities and the ability to accomplish the same, besides the experience of working? Picking up a small training course certainly helps in enhancing a person’s credibility in any area of expertise. In a series of articles, StitchWorld will discuss training programs that can be undertaken by students or professionals looking at long-term growth in the apparel & textile industry, without taking a long break from the same.

“If the management needs to systematize its operations and minimize wastages, Six Sigma is the right platform. A Six Sigma belt is always appreciated by the management, so is the case with any similar certification. It helps inculcate a culture of trying for continuous growth. Also even if implementing Six Sigma in totality might be practically impossible in garment trade, one can always considerably bring down the number of defects by Six Sigma implementation, the scope of which is quite large in garment factories. We did a project with Madura Coats Pvt. Ltd. and were successful in improving their right in first time (RIFT) level from 93% to 96%. A 3% increase for a company that caters to more than 10,000 orders a month is quite considerable.” Sowminarayanan Rajam, Corporate Green Belt holder, Assistant Manager – Quality at NorthgateArinso ANZ, Cochin

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MSME-TECHNOLOGY DEVELOPMENT CENTREMinistry of Micro, Small and Medium Enterprises, under the Government of India, is providing a comprehensive range of services to the small scale industrial sector in terms of technical assistance, provision of workshop facilities, training and other general consultancy services.

The centre runs a certified Six Sigma Yellow Belt program, which is an introductory course in Six Sigma. The course is designed to give knowledge of Six Sigma methodology along with concepts, tools & techniques. The program includes examples and case studies. The course is designed in such a way that any person with one or two years of working experience can easily understand the concept/ principles of the Six Sigma methodology. The cost of the course is Rs. 3,000.

http://www.ppdcagra.in/SIXSIGMAYELLOW.pdf

The organization also offers a Six Sigma Green Belt course in Noida, Gurgaon, Mumbai, Pune, Hyderabad, Bangalore and Chennai. Anyone with a degree and a diploma may apply. The fee for the course is Rs. 20,000.

http://www.ppdcagra.in/SIXSIGMAGREEN.pdf

There is also a course for Black Belt certification, which is conducted at Noida, Gurgaon, Mumbai, Pune, Hyderabad, and Bangalore. The eligibility criteria is the same as for above course. The one time course fee is Rs. 40,000.

http://www.ppdcagra.in/SIXSIGMABLACK.pdf

INDIAN STATISTICAL INSTITUTEThe Indian Statistical Institute offers Six Sigma Green Belt training under a three days’ program. The total number of seats is 75 and the course fee is Rs. 8,989 per participant, which includes course material, lunch and refreshment (Registration fee once deposited is non-refundable/non-transferable). The minimum marks to be obtained in the examination are 60% in theory and 60% in project.

http://www.isid.ac.in/~sqc/gb.html

The institute also offers a Black Belt certification course at a course fee of Rs. 44,944 per participant which includes course material, lunch and refreshment. This 14 days’ course, with additional project work, requires the applicant to either have a Bachelor’s degree with Mathematics, Statistics, Physics or BE/B. Tech degree or MBA, and Six Sigma Green Belt with 2 years of experience. Minimum marks to be obtained in the examination are 70% in all modules, 70% in projects and 70% in presentation.

http://www.isid.ac.in/~sqc/bb.html

The institute is amongst the few to offer a programme on Six Sigma Master Black Belt for duration of 10 days. The participant requires a Bachelor’s degree with Mathematics/Statistics/Physics or BE/B. Tech degree or MBA, and Six Sigma Black Belt with completion of at least five Black Belt projects. The course fee is Rs. 39,326 per participant which includes course material, lunch and refreshment. Minimum marks to be obtained in the examination are 80%.

http://www.isid.ac.in/~sqc/mbb.html

BRITISH STANDARD INSTITUTION (BSI)BSI offers a 5 days’ Six Sigma Green Belt certification at a cost of Rs. 25,000+ taxes at its centres in Delhi, Chennai, Chandigarh and Kolkata. The participant receives an introduction to the tools and methods that are necessary to successfully participate in Problem Solving and DMAIC improvement projects in a manufacturing or transactional environment. These tools will be introduced by a mix of upfront teaching, and group exercises to ensure learning and knowledge retention.

http://www.bsigroup.co.in/en-in/training/six-sigma/training-courses/six-sigma-green-belt-certificate/

Also, offered is a Lean Six Sigma Operational Black Belt. This 16-day Lean Six Sigma Operational Black Belt training programme is delivered in 5 modules of 4 days (typically one month between modules) to allow participants to apply what they have learned to a project within their own business while under the guidance of one of our highly experienced Master Black Belts. The project should be challenging, yet of a scale that can be progressed as far as possible during the training.

http://www.bsigroup.co.in/en-in/training/six-sigma/training-courses/lean-six-sigma-operational-bb/

TÜV INDIAA subsidiary of the TÜV NORD Group, TÜV India offers two days' Six Sigma Yellow Belt course which covers the basic requirements of Six Sigma methodology and the application of the different tools and techniques for a specific problem or process improvement. The company also offers a Six Sigma Green

Belt course which is held for duration of 5 days. The course highlights the DMAIC techniques and applications of the classroom training on one of the selected practice improvement projects.

http://www.tuv-nord.com/in/six-sigma/green-belt-course-1422.htm

Both the courses are so designed that any person with one or two years of working experience would understand the fundamental principles of the Six Sigma methodology. Knowledge of Statistical techniques and use of software such as Minitab will be desirable. However, special coaching sessions are provided for fresh graduates on the use of Minitab Software in the workshops.

http://www.tuv-nord.com/in/six-sigma/yellow-belt-course-1418.htm

QAI GLOBAL INSTITUTEThe QAI Global Institute offers 4 days’ course in Lean Six Sigma Green Belt at Delhi, Mumbai and Bangalore. Program includes using Minitab Statistical software for data analysis and interpretation of results. Case studies and caselets are used to demonstrate and practice the use of appropriate tools.

http://www.qaiglobalinstitute.com/Lean-Six-Sigma-Green-Belt-33278240236-222.html

Also offered is a 10 days’ Lean Six Sigma Black Belt certification attending the program on successful completion of Lean Six Sigma Black Belt certification requirements will be eligible for the Lean Six Sigma Black Belt certificate. Participants are provided free templates and guidelines to help them accelerate their project journey.

http://www.qaiglobalinstitute.com/Lean-Six-Sigma-Black-Belt-33272540236-222.html

Centres for Six Sigma Training

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Six Sigma Black Belt holders are put in charge of the Six Sigma projects within their respective companies on a full-time basis. Once the project is completed and everything has been implemented, they will return to their regular duties. Apart from heading the project, they also are expected to coach, develop and advise other managers so that the organization can achieve a common goal.

The highest level in Six Sigma certification is the Master Black Belt. One will not necessarily find a Master Black Belt in a company just because they are implementing Six Sigma because this person is a highly trained Black Belt who will do the work full time, even after the project is completed, to execute the practices throughout the company, not just within the project. The Master Black Belt will make sure everything continues and runs smoothly.

NOTE: One doesn’t necessarily need a Green Belt to apply for a Black Belt course, although that is

preferable, but most Black Belt course would cover the Green Belt syllabus as well.

From the perspective of a job applicant, recommendation or testimonials in terms of significant savings registered credit to the skill used and attained from the Six Sigma training are bound to impress a prospective employer. The average salary of a Six Sigma Black Belt in USA is US $ 80,000. Companies who have participated in Six Sigma training (and know its benefits) can appreciate the complexity of the process and how effective it is in exposing and eliminating business waste (for example, time-wasting workflows and unnecessary equipment). The “Six habits of Six Sigma leaders” addresses the importance of team collaboration in meeting organizational needs and will ultimately lead to a work environment that is more collaborative than competitive.

A small business that achieves the coveted Six Sigma quality certification will certainly stand out among its competitors. Even

businesses that are unable to implement Six Sigma due to cost or practicality may benefit from having employee learn and implement some of the basics of the system, especially the philosophy of proactivity and customer satisfaction that underlies Six Sigma.

Convincing apparel executives to accept the process, other than as a selling tool, has been a difficult task. The only agreement reached is that every garment cannot be manufactured to the perfect specification. However, the typical manufacturing plant is producing apparel at about a 3 sigma level with 2.5% to 4% defects. That is 4 defects per 100 pieces and not the 3.4 defects per 10,00,000 pieces accounted for by a Six Sigma manufacturer. The gap is wide enough for significant improvement to be made in any such plant. Historical studies have shown savings for a US $ 1 million company of at least US $ 10,000 to US $ 20,000 for each improvement of just one Sigma.

“On the shopfloor of a garment factory, a lot of data is collected for the purpose of monitoring. Beyond that, the data is brought into no productive use. What we develop in individuals in our Six Sigma belt courses is an eye for details in the data; they learn how to analyse the data and decide the changes that are needed to be made for further improvement.” – Reena Chakraborthy, Program Co-ordinator, Indian Statistical Institute

Indian Statistical Institute, New Delhi

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