Bernhard Roetzel

Gentleman A Timeless Fashion

Art Direction Peter Feierabend

Photography Giinter Beer

: .j , I

KONEMANN

Foreword of an Englishman

The Gentleman's Visiting Card

The Beard

Shaving at I-Tome 14[15

At the Barber's 16 A Good Wct Shave 17

The Illee!ric Shaver IS[1 9

Different Men, Different Beards 20

Caring for Beards and Mustaches 2 1 Timeless Pragranees 22 [23

The Perfumer's ABC 24 [25

The Hair

10 III

12 113

26 127

The ,Joys of Visiting the Hairdresser 2S [29

What Should T Put on My Hair" 30 [31

The Right Way to Wash Hair 32 [33

Hairstyles wi th Character 34 [35 The Toupee: ror and Against 36

The Fake Hair of the Stars 37 Chest Hair 37 The Royal Hairbrush 38 The Manicure 39

Underwear 40 141

The Most Important Question of All 42[ 43

Variations Underneath 44 [45 A Fly-Away Sueeess 46[47

The Shirt

A Gentleman's Shirt GO Gooel Shirts at a Glance G I Collar Shapes 52 [5:3 Cotton 54 [55 The Stuff that, Shirts are Made of 56 [ 57 Folding Your Shirt 57 .Jermyn Street 58159 The Best Ilnglish Shirtmakers 60 [6 1

48 149

How a Custom-Made Shirt is Created 62 [ Ii') Checks for the Weekend 64

The Brooks Brothers Shirt 65 The Right Shirt - the Right m 66 [67 Washing and Ironing ~ the Fundamentals of Shirt Care 6S[ 69

The Necktie 70 171

From Neckcloth to Ornamental Neckwear 72 Stars of the Stripes 73 A Good Necktie 74 Woolen Neckties 75 The Best of the Best 76 A Great Success from the Grande Nation 77 The Origins of Silk 78 Making a Necktie 79 The Master of the Custom-Made Neckt ie 80 The Business Necktie SI The Four-in-Hand 82 How to Tie a N"cktie 83 The Windsor Knot 83

The Bow Tic 84 [ 85

Tying a Bow Tie 86 The Cravat 87

The Suit

Style in the Suit 90 191 Button Undone 91

88 189

The Mecca of the Custom-made Suit H2-95

The English Suit 96 Patterns and Fabrics 97 A Suit from Gieves and Hawkes ~J8- 1 01

Chester Barrie 1021103 Three Savile Row Customers 104

The King of Style 105

The Right Kind of 1\,'eed Suit JOG 1107

The Italian Suit 108 Who's Who in Italy 109

Brioni - veni, viLli , vici 110 1111 Classics of Fashion 112 The Hall of Fame ll:3

The Swnmer Suit 114 111 5

Brooks Brothers - New York Classics ll 5 1]]7

Smart Casual

The Sports Jacket 1201 12 1

Needle and Thread 1221 123 Tweed Plus 1241125

1\vo 1\veed Jackets 126 I 127

Today's Sports Jacket 128 An Eye for Detail 1281 129

Fabrics for Trousers to Go with the Sports ,Jacket 130 11;) I The Gray Eminence 132 113:1 Khaki Cout.ure 134

Shorts 135

The Right Sort of.Jcans 1361137 The Cut 138 1139

How Trousers Got their Cuffs 139

118 1119

The Waist Area 140

The Trousers in Detail 140 1141

Other Countries, Other Trousers 141 All about Suspenders 142 1143

The Right Belt 1441145 The Blazer - a Living Legend 14[) 1147

Blazer and Trousers 1481149

Shoes

Good shoes } 52- J 55 .John Lobb 1561 157

Formal shoes with closed lacing 15H 1159 Formal shoes with open lacing 160 1161

Loafers 162 116:3 Moccasins Italian Style 164 1165 Monkstraps - the Shoes with Buckles 166

The Other Word fo], Weatherproof 167

150 1151

Leather Does not always Mean Leather 1681 [(ig The Center of the Shoe World 170 1171 The Shoemak"r's Tools 172 117:3 How a Shoe Takes Shape 174-177

The Other Word for Cordovan 17H 1179 Suede Shoes 180 1181

American Classics - Saddle Shoes 182 Slippers 183

Shoes ,,,ieh Knobs on 1841 185 Raincoats for Shoes 185 Socks - Getting the ComiJillatjoll Right IHt; 1187 Shoes and the Rest 188 1189

'.

Overcoats & Jackets

Overcoat Culture 1921 193 EssentialOvercoats 194-197 For the Officer in the Gentleman 198 The Duffel Coat 199 The Barbour Phenomenon 200 The Story of the Waxed .lacket 201 The Harbour in Detail 202 1203 The Top Six 203 Short is All Right 204 1205

190 1191

The Hat 206 1207

The Hat Past and Present 2081209 The Bowler 210 1211 Courage to Wear Hats 21212 13 Who Wears Hats? 2141215 The Panama 2161217

Accessories

Those little differences 220 1221 The Everyday Ballast 222 1223 One has it - but where? 224 1225 What does it tell us? 226 1227

218 1219

The best watches in the world 228 1229 All About the Watch 230 1231 Less is More 232 1233 Preface to Tobacco 234 1235 The Cigarette 2361237 The Pipe 2381239 Classic Pipe Squad 240 1 241 The Manufacture 241 The Cigar 242 1243 The Sizes 244 1 245 The Bar in the Pocket 246 1247 The Cuff Link 248 1249 Our Daily Companion 250 1251 The Original 252 1253 Traveling in Style 254 1255 For the Short Trip 256 1257 The Knack with the Jacket 258 The Right Way to Pack a Sui lease 259 The Walking Cane 260 The Lap Robe 261 No Fear of Rain 262 1263 The Other Word in Umbrellas 264 1265

Glasses 2661267 Not only when the Sun Shines 268 1269 The Handkerchief 270 1271 From Hand to Breast Pocket 272 1 273 The Right Combination 274 1275 The Glove 276 1277 Scarf Refinement 2781279

Knitwear 2801281

In the Beginning Was the Sweater 282 I 283 From Sheep to Wool 284 I 285 Classic Knitwear 286 I 287 Between England and France 288 The Guernsey in Detail 289 From Fine to Chunky Knit 290 1291 Correct Coordination 292 1293 For Cold Winter Days 294 1295 The Other Craze 296 I 297

Sporting Life

Why Sport? 3001301 Hunting, Riding, Fishing ... 302 1303 Shooting - the Outfit 3041305 The Real Thing 306 1307 The pocketknife 307 Riding - the Outfit 308 1309 Spectating in Style 310 1311 Fishing - the Outfit 3121313 Hole in One 3141315 The Crocodile 316 1317 The Other Polo Shirt 317 Water Sports - the Outfi t 3181319

298 1299

Formal Dress 320 1321

White or black? 322 1323 The Tuxedo - and What Goes With It 324 1325 Black & White 325 White Tie 326 1327 A Jacket for Smoking 328 Available to Rent .. 328 The Right Shoes 329 Morning Dress 330 1331

Home Comfort

A Hint of Decadence 334 1335 Breakfast with Style 336 1337

332 1333

A Souvenir from the Colonies 338 I 339 Home ComfOlt 340 1341

Appendix

Looking after your Wardrobe 344-347 The Suit 344 The Necktie 346 Shoes 346 I 347 Shoe Repair 347

Glossary 348-352 Bibliography - a Selection 353 Acknowledgments 353 Index 354-357 Picture Credits 360

342 1343

Index beefroU loa fer 162,348 Burton, Richard 113 Cleverly, Gcor"gc ( rU"m) 165

BeIcher, Jnmes 72 Bush, Cieorgc 80 c10lhes brush :144 , 345

belt 96, 144·145, :J49 button-down shilt 64, 65, 249, clothes hanger 344, :345

Belvest (firm) 109 297 club jacket 146

Pages with detailed ell tries Oil Bernberg rayon/silk 129,348 buttonhole 96 club necktie 72 , 73, 348

subject are in bold. BcnetLon, Luciano 267 buttons 51, 96, 12;3, 129, 149 coat 192-199, 304

A Bengal str ipes 348

C coat maker 92, 100,348

Bennett, Tony 37, 1I3 Cochet, Henri 316

Aaltsz, Tany 19 beret2 13 Cagney, James 213 Coggin, John 95

a<:cessories 220·279 Bcrl uti ( firm) IG7 Calcani, Armando 110 Coke, William 2 11

Ackcrmann, Myron 102, 109 Bernha rd, Prin ce of the camelhair cloth 189 Colacello, Bob 137

Acqua di Parroa 22 Netherlands 18 canvas 101, 129, 348 collar. see shirt collar

'action-man' sweater 2% bill clip 225 Caraceni (firm) 109 college scarf 279

Adcnauer, Konrad 138,22;3 bill pocket 225 Carac:eni, Domenico 109 Collischon, David 252

adjustable waistband 140. 143, Billings & Edmonds (firm) 104 Cardoso, Lopez 18 Collisc:holl, Lesley 252

352 blazer 146-149, 3 18, 348 care of clothes 5 7, 68-69 , 344- Comfort, John ( firm) 79

aftershave 15 I3lm:her 160, 161, 179,348 347 COlUlCIY, Sean 36, 75, 104

AgncJli, GialUli 35, ~, 227 B1uchcr, Gebhard Leberecllt Carn~, JotUlle 130 Cooper ( firm) 46

Alden ( fi nn) 65, 116, 153, 154, 160 Carrc ras, Jose Joaqrnn 236 Cooper, Gary 113, 139

155, 158, 16:J, 178, 179, 18 1 boat shoes 16=1, 186,319,348 Cartier (rum) 228, 229, 233, 237 Cordings of Piccadilly (fi rm)

Alien, Woody 127, 214 , 267 boate r 21 2, ::148 cashmere :)48 107, 148,205,247, :304, 306-307

Allcn-Edmonds (firm) 153, 154, Bogart, Humphrey :17 jacke t 128,31 4 cordovan 178-179, 348

158 Boothby, Sir Brooke 277 necktie 75, 76 cordllroy 125, 130, 131, 148, 189

Altman & Co., B. (firm) II I boots ::m5, 308, 3 12, 313 produ<:tion 284 cotlon :348

Anderson & Sheppard (finn) Borotra, Jean :l16 scarf 278, 279 manufacture 54-55

94,101, 104 Borsalino2 13 suit 114, l1fi pique shirl 3 17

AlIgelo (flrm) 109 bow Lie 85, 86, 325, 327 cavalry lwill130, 131, 148, 195, pajamas 339

angling, scc fis lwlg Bowler & Son (firm) 2 11 , 348 348 shirts 56

Anne , Princess 20 1 bmvler hat 210-211 , 213, 348 chalkstripcs 97, 189,348 suits 114-115

aran sweater 291, 295 Box, Joseph 169 chambray 64, 65 swea ters 291

Armani 113 boxcloth 142, 143 Chameau, Le (firm) :m5 wadding 101

Armstrong, Neil228 boxer short.s 42, 44 Charles rI , King of Great Britain court shoes 349

Asprey ( fi rm) 256 Braun ( fi nn) 19 72 covert cloth 125, 189

Astaire, Fred a7, 133,2 14,327 breeches :148 Charles, Prince of Wales 35, 53, covert coaL 195, a07, 348

Audemars Piguet (firm) 228, Breguel ( flIlTl) 228, 229 94, 104, 143,20 1, 209 c ravat 87

229 Breguet, Abraham-I..ou is 228 Charvet (firm) 74 , 339 Craven, Earl of 236

B Breitllng (flrm) 228, 229 Cheaney & Sons, Joseph (finn ) credit card holde r 225

briefcase 250-251 153, 154, 167,170 cricket sweater 294

Babers (firm) 171 , 177 Brigg & Sons 264 checks 189,314,348, 350 Crockett & Jones (firm) 153,

Badge & Button Company Brigg, see Swaine, Adeney, see also gingham; house check; ]54, 170, 171

(flrm) 149 Brioni (fmn), 109, 110-113, 128 Prince of Wales check; Crockett, Jolm (£inn) 305

Balmoral Ox.fords 158, 348 British warm 195, 348 shepherd's check Crombic coat 194,348

bandanna 72 brogue 158, 159, 160, 161, 165, chest hair 37 cuff links 248-249, 325, 350

Barbera (firm) 128,297 181 Cheste r Same (fi nn) 102- 103, cummerbund 325

Barbour (fum) 201 Brooks Brothers (firm) 65, 116, 141 Cundey, Angus 95, 325

Barbour jacke t 200-203 , 305 127, 142, 143, 179, 182,214, 297 Chesterfi eld (coat) 194, :148 custom-made

Harbour, John 20 I Brooks Brothers shirt 65 Cheviot 125, 189, 348 hats 213

baseball cap 213 Brooks, .Tohn 65 chinos 65, 134,149 shirts 62-63

Bass (firm) 65, 154, 162 Brown , Davies & Co. (firm) 50 Church, Thomas 171 shoes 156-157

Bass Weejuns 162, 317 Brugnon, Jacques 3 16 Church's (firm) 153, 154, 155, sportsjackeLs 128-129

bathrobe Brununell, George Bryan 72 159, 162, 166,170-171,175 su its 80, 92-93, 99-103 , I II

see also dressing gown 337 Brun, Henrik 45 ChurchW, Randolph 237 tailoJing 102, :148

Battistoni (firm) 109 brushes, Churchill, \Vinston 84, 183,215, cutaway collar 52, 53, 67, 83, 348

Baume & Mercier (fi lm) 228, see hairbmshes; clothes 228, 237 Cutler & Gross (firm) 269

229 brushes CifoneUi (firm) 109 Cutler, Graham 269

Baume, \\Tllliam 228 Budapest.s 159, 165,348 cigar 242-245 cutter 92, 99- 101,348

Bausch & Lomb (firm) 2(38, 2(39 buffalo horn 348 cigarette 236-237

D beard care 21 Burberry, Thomas 198 cigarette case 222, 237

beard s tyles 20 Burbenys (firm) 198 cigarette lighter 222 , 2:37 D'Avcnza (firm) 109

Bedford cord 125,305,348 Burlington (firm) 187 Clapton, Eric 104 Daif, Salvador 20

Davis, John 95

decr~ta iker 349

Oege & Sons, J. (firm) 94

D('l ia Valle, Diego 22, 184, 185 DeIon, Alain 214

denim 349 Derbys 160, 161 , 165, :349 det.achabie collar 52, 53

Dictrich, Marlcne 23, 104

Dior, Christian 22

Disney, Colonel 252

dive r's watch 23 1

dog tooth 125, :J4!J

Donegallweed 124, 349

double cuffs 249, 350

double-breas ted coat 96, 352

Douglas, 1lichael 143, 18!)

Drake, Michael J. 75, 278

Drake's ( firm) 74, 80 dress handkerdticf 270-275,

325 dressing goml :334, 3:36, 337,

341 dry cleaning 344, :l47, 351

duffe l coat 199 , :349

Dllnhill (firm) 237, 238

DuponL (fi rm) 237

Dusty "-"!adder 349

E Eau de Hermes 22

eau de toilette 15, 22-23

Eau Sauvage 22

Edinburgh, Duke of, see Phi lip,

Prince

Edmonds, Colin 104

Edward VII, King of Great

Britain and Ireland 105, 139,2 12

Edward VIll, King of Great

Britain and Northern Ireland,

sec Windsor, Duke of

Einstei.n , Albert 35

electric shaver 14, 18-19

Elizabeth I, Queen of England

238,288

Emanuele Filibe rto, Prince or

Savoy 20 equestrianism 302~103, 308-311

espadrilles 183, :319

Evans, David (firm) 349

evening dress 323

Extrac t of Limes (eau de

toilette) 22

F fabrics

see also individual fabrics 56,

58, 97, 114,1 17, 124-125

Fair Isle pullover 105

Fay (rum) 183

fedora 2 12

felt 101 , 123

Filofax 252-253

finger nails, care of:19

fish tail 349

fishing ;302-:33, 3 12-313

fi t ting :W8

sce also custom-made

flarmel l17, 120, 130, 131, 133,

146, 14R, 189,34H

flask 246-247

neur de lys sweater 295

F10rshei m (film) lfi4

Fonda, Henry 11 :3

Fonticoli,Nmmreno 110, II I

Foster & Son ( fiml) 1»7

fonntaill pen 222

four in hand knot 82, 83, 34B

Fox, Samuel 26:J, 265

fragrance notes 24 fragrances 22-25

Fremont, VIIH:cnt 1:37

freIlch cuffs 249 , :350

Friday shirt G!l

Frisch , Max 192

frock coat ;331

G gabardine 197, lDS, 349

Gable, Clark 113

Galliano, John 214

galloon :326, 349

galoshes 185, !J49

gentleme n's outfillerS,see

individual firms; Jermyn Street;

Savile How

George VI, King of Great Britain

and Northern Ireland 224

Gidden , W. & H. (rum) 30S

Gieve, Robert 96 , 350

Gieves & Hawkes ( firm) 74 , 98-

101 , 147, 195,290, 35 1

gingham 349

Giorgio of Beverly Hills (eau de

toilette) 23

glasses 266-269

glen check 97, 105

gloves 276-277, 327, 33 1

(Jodley, Robert 75

golf 3 14-315

Goodyear, Charles 17 1

Gorbachev, Mikhail 80

GravaU ( finn) 154

Green, Edward (fi rm) 153, 154,

171

Grey Flannel (eau de toilette) 23 Gross, Tony 269

Gucci ( firm) 154, 164, 165, 329

Guerlain (firm) 2:l Guernsey puUover 288-289,

3 19,:149

Guylas, Stephen 205

H Hackett ( firm) 140, 171

hacking jacket 309, 349

hai r brush 3 8

hair-care products 30-31

hairstyles 34-35, 208-209

hainyashing 32-33

Halston (design er) 14,22

Hamilton (firm) 22S, 229

handkerch ief, see dress

handkerchief

Hallway, Jonas 26;~

I-Iami ( firm) 154, 157

Hardy, Oliver 211 Hams, D. R. (finn) ;30 Harris tweed 124, :349

Harrod::; 338

Harvie & Hudson ( fi nn) 61

hats 208-217, 3 10-311, 312,

;H4

see also individual styles

Hawes & Curtis (finn) 82, 96, 104, ;327

Hayward , Dougla..<; 104

Hefncr, Hugh 337

Hemingway, Emest 20

Hcpburn , Aurlrey 133

Hennes (film) 76, 77, 83, 27:J, :308 Hermes, Ernile-Charles 77 Hermes, Thierry 77

herringbone 117, 124, 125, 194,

:349 herringbone twill 56

Herriot, J UIIlCS 64 , 329

Hetherington, John 212

Heuer, Edouard 228 HHditch & Key (film ) 61 , 74

Hili , Charles (firm) 74

Hockney, David :35

Holliday & Brm\TI (fi rm) 74

homburg hat 2 12, 349

hopsack 146

horsehair 101, 12 :~ , 129, a5}

Horween ( firm) 169, 178, 179

Honvitz, Alcxandre 18

houndstooth 125, :349 house check 349

house style 349

Hughes, Fred 137

Hunter wellies 305

hunting 20 1, 302-303 , 304 -3 05

Huntsman & Sons (fIrm) 93, 94,

103, :108 Hurd, Dougla,> 267

hush.-y jacket 205, 305, 308

I Inte rnational Watch Co 228 , 229 ironing 68-69 , 344

J ja<:ket, see blazer; club jacket; everting dress; fishing; golf;

husky jacke t; knitted garments;

morning coal ; packing a su itcase; quilted jacket; riding;

sailing; sheepskin jacket; smoking jacket; sports jacket;

SI lit.; tails; waxed jacket

Jaeger-Le-Coultre (firm) 229

Jagger, Bianca 104

Jagger, Mick 104

.Jaime, Don 20

jeans 134, 13 6-13 7, 149, IS9

Jermyn ~tl"ect 59-6 1, 350

jcwehy 232-233

Jockey ( briefs) 42, 44 , 46-47

,John, Elton 37,104

Johns & Pegg (finn) 104 Johnson, Herbert (firm) 2 1 :~

Johnson, Pltilip 267

K Kent & Sons, G.B. (ru·m) 38

Kent, ,John gG key holde r 222

Kilgour, French & Stanbury

(firm) 9fi, :327

King, I..arry 142

kipper neckt ie 82 , 350

Kiton (firm) 104, 109 , 128,141,

297

Klemann, Benjamin 157

kll itwear 282-297

Kltize ( fiml) ~J

Kn ize Ten (eau de toilette) 23

Kohl, Hchnut 80

L Lucoste (firm) 316·3 17

Lacoste , Rcne 316

Lage rfcld, Karl35

Langc & Sbhnc, A. (firm) 22S,

229 Lange, Ferd inand Adolph 228

Lnngsdorf, Jesse 72

lap robe 261 , 351

last 175, 350 Lauren, Ralph 22 , 64, IIG, 141 ,

17 1, 182,297, 317

lavender 25

leather 144, 168-169, 178-179,

277

Lcvi's 65, 136, 149, 297, 317

Lewin, T. M. (firm) 60

Lewlll, Thomas Mayes 60

Index :354 j 355

Li{'he l ]{~i l lt' r, W(Jlfg<lng 1M2

Lincoln, Abr3ham I1G

I, i!j(lb (~l'gll, Churles 228

linen 114, 111),271

timng 79, 12J, 12H, 1-11,349

J.loyd, Hel1 ri (firm) 205, :l IH

loafer 162-164, lU5, 179, IHl ,

184-1 85, IS6, l8H,:J29,331

Lobh, ,JoiUl (finn) 15:~, lfifi,

156-157, 165,171, 17:3

Lock & Co. (fi rm) 211, 310

lodclI196, 30:3, :m4, 150

Locwy, RaYlllond 19

Longinf'S (firm) 228, 22!J

Lorillal'd, Gri~w()ld 325

LottIssl' (finn) 1 5:~, lfi fi

LIIIllSlkll, Si r Harry 1:14

M Maedesfield tie 72

macintosh 197,350

.Macintosh, Charles HJi

~1acNee, Patlick 2 10

Madn ls cheek :U4 , ;3fiO

Majur, Dimi 104 maniclll'C 39 Manu, Thomas 208, 234, 261

:r.,'iarie-Antoinetle, Queen of

F'rant.:e 228

MilIinclla (fi rm) 80-81

J\'larinella, Eugenio 80 Marinella, Muuri ;-;;lO 80 Marlboro 2:31i-2:3 7

)'Iary I, Queen of England 288

Mary, QUecn of Seol,,> 2R8

masle r I.ai lo r 350

Mastroianni , :\1an.:cllo 278 Materna, Georg (firm) 157

McCartney, Paul 104

Menkes, Suzy 82

Mercier, Palll 228

me li no wool 1:33,284, 350

;\Iichae l, Or, Gem'se 38 i'.Iichael, Prince, of Kent 82

Missoni (finn) 296-297 Missoni , Angda 297

Missoni, Oclavio 29G, 297

f\I issull i, Rosita 286, 297

Mitterand, Fram.ois HO

mixture of putterns 274-275

mobile phone 222

moccasins 1n4, Jii2, I G3, 165 ,

:150

mohair 114, 115,284,350

moleskin 1:30, 131,350

money 224-225

Illonkstrap shoes 166, 331 , 350

Montezcltlolo, Luca di 22

~'Ionlgomcry, B(.! rnard Law 199

Moore , Hoger 104

Moresdti (fi I111) 154

mOi'Jl i! lg coal ::!OH, :l:31, :348

morning flrps!; 330·331

Morris, I'hilip2:Hi, 2:37

lllu ft.i 350

N nailhead 97, ISH

Napo]eOlI 1301ll1parte 228

lIeckcloth 72, BD, 33 1 necktie 66, 72-87, 148, 274-275, 3 13, J:H , 350

black 323, 324 -325

business RI

buying 74

('are of 347

Hel1l1f':> 77, j..j8

history of 72, 85

knitted 75

making 79, 81

Marindla 80 striped 7:3

lying 82-8:3

sec also bow tie; cravat ;

ind ivid ual firms; Ilcckdoth

necktie knOTs 82-83

Nelson, Albert 101 Nelson, Horatio 288

New & LlIIgwood ( fi rm) 60 Nicky ( finn) 75

Nicoletto, Aido 109

nightshirt :i:lH

Niven, David 20

Norfolkjacket 120, ::ISO Nonna ll & Hill (firm) 252

Nutter, TOllllIIY 104

o Ogilvy, David 2:38

Omega (lirnl) 228, 228

O'Nei l, PelP.l' 99

open (cutthroat) r<izor 14, 17

ost rich leather aSI over:-;hirt 50·69

Oxford cloti ! 56, u5, ;350

Ox ford shoes 15B, IG9, 1G;l,

IGG, 3:3 1, 350

p packing (l sllitcase 25H-2fi9

Paco Rabanne pour Homme 2:J

pnjamas 334, 338-339, 351

Panama hat 216·217, 3 14

pants 120, 130-141, 148-149

see also cveniug d ress; golf;

jeans; riding; sailing; shorts;

suit; tails; trouser makers ete

Paone , Ciro 109

Partridge, John (firm) 20!i

Pa lek Philippf' ( fi rm) 228, 229

patent shoes :129

Pl'IlIlY loafers J()2, 17H, :351

Pepila 124

perfumer 24

perfumes 22-25

I)hiiip, Pril](;e flu, 104, ~() l

Philips (fil1ll) IS-IH

Philishave 18 Piagl't Crtrlll) 228

l'icas..<;o , Pablo 2 15, 2:37

p igskin ;35 1

Pi nk, Thomas (fi nll) fi 1

pinpoint 5G pinstripes 97, 18!1, :350 pipes 238-241

pleated-froll t tl'Ouser~ 4G,

W8- t:39, 140, )..ji,;J48

fJ lus fonrs a5 1 pocket flask 246-247

Jlot.:ketknife 222, 307

Poco briefs 44

Poitier, Sidney 11:3

Polo (eau de toiiet.lc) 22

polu coat 196 polo Rhi rt 31 4, 31 6-3 17, :351

1'oole &. Co. , HClIIY (firm) 95

fJo plin 5(j, :35 1

pork-pie hal2 14

P0l1 folio25 1

Pri nce of Wales check 97,105,

117, 18H, :l!i l

profiled soles 184

pure \"001

h la;-;;er 146

lleektic 75

Ruil 11 4 , 115

trouser" l:H see also knitted garments

purse 225

R Rabanne. Pa<:o :n Radermacher, Heillz-.Josef G2

Rarl., George 213 Raglan sleeve 107, :3;", 1 R<lleigh, Si r Waltl'r 2:35, ~:38

Ray Ban 268, 2Cifj

l'(!ady-to-wear garnwllt~ 93,

111 ,:150

Heagan, Ronald 53

Regent (finn) 102

f(;,'gimental nec kt ic 73, 351

Rcile r, Llld" .. ig (fi1111) 15:1, l!i5

rihbed twill 56

riding mac 197, :)09

ritiillg, see equcslrianisnl

Rockwell, Norman Percl'val334

Roc\cn, Geroge 9f)

Hogers & Co. ( !inn) 94

Rolex (firm) 228, 229

Rose, Derek (firm) :1:37, :):38

Husetti, Fl'atelli (firm) 154

Rothnlan'i, LO!Jis 2:lQ

RCludnit.<;ka, Edmolld 2:3

Hllhi JI~tein, MUlll r 228

s saddle shoes 182, :151

sailing 318-319

&lint Laurcllt, YV(~s 2:37

Salllsonite (firm) ~;)G

Santol'i 110

Savile HolY 92·95, fit) , fl9, lO2-

Ill;}, 104, 128, :351

Savin i, Gaela ll o 110, II I Scalfa ro, Oscar Luigi SO st.:arf 278-279, 3~(i

sdlool neckl.ies 7:3, 351

Schwl!itzel', Albc rt 20

SemI', Grace 252

Sea Island cottOll flG, :35 1 S~al1eld , COlllllt~SS of !J7

Schago ( finn) 1M, 162 seersueker 11 7

Segal, rTed 1:36

Sellers, Peter 11 :3, 3 Hi

sl' rge 146

Revell-fold til' 76

shavi ng 14-21

shaving hl'l.l<;h 14, 17 shavmg t.: rearn 14

shppherd's check 124

Shetland \'>'001 2u 1, :351

shirt collar FiO, 5 1, 52-53 , f-j6-07

shirts, care o f ni, 68-69

sltirls, see nighTsh irt ; oversh ir t;

]l/)lo~hirt, :mloldngjtlckd;

!aileoat; tlJ!derwear

shoe t.rees :14 7, :3G I ~ hoes: 152-203 , a05, 308, :315, :) lfl, :)29, :3:1 1, :1:3-1

ilUt.:kled 166

buying 152-155

care :Wl-;I47

lace-up 158-]61 , 181, 182,

ISB Hlanufadure Hi!), 172-177

repail' :346 see also hout:>; indtvidual

firms; individlml nwde1s

~horts 1:35

shoulders fl6, 12.8 Shwayder, .Je!>Sc 2Gu silk 351

cravat 87

tll't:klle 75, 7(i

origins of 78

pajamas :J39

production 2H4-28f>

s hirl 5fl

suit 114, 115

Simenon, GCO['gl's 2:38

Simpson (finn) ;n~;

Sinatra, Frank :37, 11:1, 14:l, 214

Sindair, An!.hony 104

sillg le-breastl~(1 coat ;]49

slip-on coat HJ7, :351

slipper" 183, 3.14

Smith &. &)1[, James ( firm) 26:3 Smith, Peter !HJ

"lOoking 2:15

see also cigar; dgnrerlc; pipe

sllIokingjackc l ~2a, 324·325 , 32R, :329 sock" 186-187 , :325 soft roU collar 52, 5:1, (i!) , 249

Spert',Y Topsilict's;nU

spurt 300-3 J 9

sce also individual s por!;<;

sportsjnckct 120· 129, ;35 1

s(,)rcari eoll<lr (cutaway cullur) 52,!):1

Srokowski, Leopold 2!lfi

Strauss, Levi 1;)6

straw hat 212

sw:_,<ie shoes 18 0-181

suit 90-117, :348

care of :-144- 34::;

casual :35] double-brt ~asted 9o, :)1)2

I:;nglish !)(j, 108

hL<;tory!ll in general flO-91

Iralian 10R

sununer 115

see also individual fabrics,

ind ividual firms; made to

mca'>urc; morning dress;

packing a suitcase; finvile

Hmv; tails; LUxedo

suitcases 2f>1, 254·259

Super WO (wool) 114,35 1

suspenders 96, 116,138, I:HJ,

140, 142-143, :~49

Swaine, Adeney, Brigg & Sons

(firm) 2Fi l , 2G:3, 264-265

sweater, see individuallllorlels;

knitwear

Swiss batiste 1)6

T tab collar 52, 5.'3

TAG Heuer (firm) 228, 2~n

tai1coaL 209, :{2~~, 326-327, 329,

:14~

tailor 92, 0:3, 95, 102, 350

Tailors, Tobias (firm) 74, 95

wrtan 352

ta<;,sel lonfers 162, 16.'3, 179, ~J52

Ta lLersail check I)G, 64, 7!'i , :352

Tat t ersalJ, Riehard 64

Te le rie Spadali ( firm) 58

Thurston, Albcrt. (firm) 14:~

T'ibhett (firm) 194

ticket Ixx:ket :348

l'imherJand 154

tohacco proccssing 23!'i

Tod's,J, p, (firm) 154, 184-IRS,

2~J7

lop hat. 200, 212, ;327, :3:31, ;352

toupee 36-37

trench eoat 198, :352

Trider:<; (fi rm) 15;3 , 1&4, Wi, 170,171,183, ;m5

trilby hat 20!), 212 , 310-311 ,

:352

trmunel' :352

t.rouser ma ker nz, 100, :35Z

trollsers, SP.e pants 'l'rumpcr's (firm) 22 , 30, 33

Tumi (finn) 2,')6

Turnhull & Asser (fu'm) 5::1,58,

60,74, 104 , (96

turndown collar 52, 5;3

tl1xedo :32:3, 324-:J25, :328, ;WJ,

:)49, :152

tweed

caps 213, 3 12

fahrics 75, 124-125, :352 hat.s 2 12, :112 jackpts 120, 126· 127 , 128,

205, :I ll sllits flG , 106-107,304, :Hl

u umhrella 262-265 , ;31;3, 315

underwear 42-47

v Vass, Laszl6 157

vest 203,285, :308, 312, 326,

:l:U, 352

vest makcr 92, 100, 352

veLivcr 2~~

VictOlia, Queen of Gl'eall3rilain

and Ireland 147

vicufla 284 , :l52

Villcmln , ,lean Nicot 2:1:'>

Vilucd, Al!~clo to!)

Viyella 56, :n\l, :-l52 Vuitton, Gcorges 254

VlIiUon, Louis (fll'm) 2!)O, 254-

255 ,256

w \Vagner, Robel'l 113

waistband

adjustable 140, 14:~, 352

elasticized :WD

waist-pleat trousers 46,1:18-

1:39, 140, 141 , :348

wal king cane 260

wallet 222, 225

Warhol , Amly :37, 42, 11G, 1:-17

.. vateh 226-231 see also individual

nlanu fnct ul'l'rs

Walson, Teddy (lu , 104

waxed jilcket 200-20:3, 3G2

Wayne, ,JohIl 11:3 Weatherill , nernard 91'5

\VelJin~lon , Dl lke of228

Welsh & ,Iefflies (fiI1l1) 104 Weston, J, n, (firm) 154

\vd shaving 17

wh ipcord :152

Wild!;' , Oscar 341 \Vildsmit.h (firm) 154

Wilkinson & Som. (firm) 94

windcheatCl' 314

Windsor knot 83 Windsor, Duke of r~3, 82, 97,

105, 143, 239, ;J04, 3CXi, :J25, :352

winglips 158, If)} , 170, :348

Wolfe, Tom 50, 58

wool

blazer 14fi

coatI94- 19(j

knitwear Z82-2~17

nccktie 75

pants 13:3

scarf 279

suil l 14, lIS

see also ca<;hme l'e; fia llnl'i;

m erino wool; mohai.r; ptlre new

wool; worsted

worsted 97,125, 12R, 146, 2R8

Wrighr of Derby, .Ioseph 277

y Young, Tc rcllce 104

z Zola, Emile 16

lll(iex ;3561 ;357