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2016 2017
best of périgord
English edition
Made for English-speaking people looking for good tips and good addresses in Périgord, “Best of Périgord” by Petit Futé is an essential how-to guide to find an accommodation, a restaurant, to organize your visits and outings to be sure you will enjoy your stay in this beautiful land! It is true that Périgord is well known by all lovers of gastronomy and historical sites. Périgord is a land with great patrimonial weath and countless attractions: castles, abbeys, churches, bastides, trogloyctic sites, caves, chasms, gardens, museums, theme parks, etc. Périgord is divided into four touristic regions, a classification respected in this guide. Périgord Blanc: around Périgueux and the Valley of Isle. Périgord Noir unmistakably suggests the truffles found in this area and concentrates the main prehistoric sites and the remarkable castles. Périgord Pourpre includes all the Bergeracois and its hillside vineyards which produce a golden wine: the Monbazillac. Don’t forget to visit the bastides ! Périgord Vert includes municipalities situated in the Périgord Limousin Regional Natural Park and Brantôme, the green Venice of Périgord. Périgord is a land of enchanting landscapes, charming small towns and wild nature that you can explore by walking, cycling or horse riding. But Périgord is also the craftsmen, the festivals, the cultural and culinary events, the markets where you can find local products such as foie gras, truffles, ceps, walnuts, strawberries, wines… Tasty ! With this guidebook, Petit Futé has done everything possible to give you a selection of addresses gathering the must-sees as the hidden treasures for a successful stay and to enjoy the best of Périgord ! Welcome to Périgord !
EditorialPUBLISHINGCollection Directors and Authors: Dominique AUZIAS and Jean-Paul LABOURDETTEEditorial manager: Cécilia DELACOURT With the collaboration of Didier MENDUNIAuthors: Claire DELBOS, Sandrine ANSEL LEMASSON, Jean-Paul LABOURDETTE, Dominique AUZIAS and alterPublishing Director: Stéphan SZEREMETAPublishing Team: François TOURNIE, Maurane CHEVALIER, Silvia FOLIGNO, Bénédicte PETIT, Patrick MARINGE, Caroline MICHELOT, Morgane VESLIN, Pierre-Yves SOUCHET, Talatah FAVREAU and Hector BARON
STUDIOStudio Manager: Sophie LECHERTIER assistée de Romain AUDREN Layout: Julie BORDES, Élodie CLAVIER, Sandrine MECKING, Delphine PAGANO and Laurie PILLOISPictures Management and Mapping: Audrey LALOY
WEBWeb Director: Louis GENEAU de LAMARLIERETechnical Director: Lionel CAZAUMAYOUWeb Management and Development: Jean-Marc REYMUND, Cédric MAILLOUX and Florian FAZERCommunity Manager: Cyprien de CANSON
PUBLICITY TEAMLocal Publicity Manager: Caroline CHOLLETLocal Publicity Responsible: Michel GRANSEIGNECustomer Relationship Management: Vimla MEETTOO and Sandra RUFFIEUX
NATIONAL PUBLICITY TEAMAdvertising Managers: Caroline AUBRY, François BRIANCON-MARJOLLET, Perrine DE CARNE MARCEIN, Caroline GENTELET, Florian MEYBERGER and Caroline PREAU
INTERNATIONAL PUBLICITY TEAMAdvertising Managers: Jean-Marc FARAGUET, Guillaume LABOUREUR assistés d’Elisa MORLAND
CIRCULATION AND PROMOTIONSales Promotion Director: Bénédicte MOULET assistée d’Aissatou DIOP and Alicia FILANKEMBOSales Manager: Jean-Pierre GHEZ assisté de Nathalie GONCALVESPress-Sponsors Partnership Management: Jean-Mary MARCHAL
ADMINISTRATIONChairman: Jean-Paul LABOURDETTEFinancial Director: Valérie DECOTTIGNIESHuman Resources Director: Dina BOURDEAU assistée de Sandra MORAIS and Vianney LAVERNEInformation Technology Manager: Pascal LE GOFFAccounting: Jeannine DEMIRDJIAN, Christelle MANEBARD and Adrien PRIGENTCollection: Fabien BONNAN assisté de Sandra BRIJLALLSwitchboard: Jehanne AOUMEUR
n PETIT FUTE BEST OF PÉRIGORD 2016 - 2017 nLe Petit Futé was founded by Dominique Auzias. It is published by Les Nouvelles Editions de l’Université 18, rue des Volontaires - 75015 Paris. & 01 53 69 70 00 - Fax 01 42 73 15 24 Internet: www.petitfute.com SAS with a capital of 1 000 000 E - RC PARIS B 309 769 966 Cover : Beynac et Cazenac © fred34560 Printed by : IMPRIMERIE CHIRAT - 42540 Saint-Just-la-Pendue Completion date : 11/07/2016 ISBN : 9782746998087To contact us by email, indicate the surname in tiny follow-up of @petitfute.com For the letters to the editor: [email protected]
PRINTED IN FRANCE
CONTENTS�n KNOWING
MORE ABOUT PÉRIGORD�nRecord Sheet ............................................ 8Not to be missed ........................................9Nature ...................................................... 14History ......................................................17Périgord gastronomy.............................. 20Sports & Leisure ..................................... 25Festivals & Events .....................................27
�n PÉRIGORD BLANC�nPérigord Blanc ........................................ 32
Périgueux .................................................32Marsac-sur-l’Isle .....................................53Montpon-Ménestérol ..........................55Mussidan ..................................................57Neuvic-sur-l’Isle .....................................59Saint-Astier ..............................................61Saint-Pierre-de-Chignac .....................64Sorges ........................................................64Vergt ..........................................................69
�n PÉRIGORD NOIR�n Périgord Noir ..........................................74
Beynac .......................................................74Le Bugue-sur-Vézère ............................78Le Buisson-de-Cadouin .......................84Carlux.........................................................89Castelnaud ...............................................90Daglan .......................................................92Domme .....................................................93Hautefort ..................................................97Les Eyzies-de-Tayac ........................... 101Marquay-Sireuil ................................... 108Meyrals ................................................... 110Montignac-Lascaux ........................... 111La Roque-Gageac ............................... 116Rouffignac-Saint-Cernin- de-Reilhac ............................................. 118Sainte-Alvère ....................................... 118Saint-Cyprien ....................................... 118Saint-Léon-sur-Vézère ...................... 119Salignac-Eyvigues .............................. 120Sarlat-la-Canéda ................................. 122Thenon ................................................... 143Terrasson-Lavilledieu ........................ 144Villefranche-du-Périgord ................. 151Vitrac-Montfort ................................... 152
�n PÉRIGORD POURPRE�nPérigord Pourpre ................................... 154
Beaumont-du-Périgord .................... 154Belvès ..................................................... 155Bergerac ................................................ 158Couze-Saint-Front .............................. 176Eymet ...................................................... 177Issigeac................................................... 179Lalinde.................................................... 180Limeuil ................................................... 181Monbazillac .......................................... 181Monpazier ............................................. 184Montcaret ............................................. 187Sainte-Foy-la-Grande ........................ 188Villamblard ........................................... 191
© D
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The village of Beynac and its castle.
These are Petit Futé’s special recommendations
CONTENTS
�n PÉRIGORD VERT�nPérigord Vert ......................................... 196
Bourdeilles ............................................ 196Brantôme-en-Périgord ..................... 198Excideuil ................................................ 204Jumilhac-le-Grand ............................. 208
Mareuil ................................................... 211Nontron ................................................. 212Ribérac ................................................... 219La Roche-Chalais ................................ 225Saint-Jean-de-Côle ............................ 228Thiviers ................................................... 228
Index ..................................................... 234
©
ELOD
IE.P
AUW
ELS –
XILO
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The marketplace of Geese – Sarlat-la-Canéda.
direct access to the beachbarlaundryair conditioningnightclubcash machinedrinking waterhorse ridingsmoking areanon-smokingfitnessminiature golfhard of hearing disability
visually impaired disabilitymental handicapmotor disabilitygarden or parkgameswashing machine / laundrybicycle rentalgrocery storeairport shuttlefishingindoor swimming pooloutdoor heated pooloutdoor pool
take awayroom service
fitness room
playroom / tvmodern sanitarywater sports
tennis
archerywaterslidefan
toilet drain
sailing
FIND the Best visits interesting excellent unmissable Unforgettable
Vers
Limog
es
D4
D75
D70
4
D78
N21
D78
Salignac-Eyvigues
St-Cyprien
Domme
la Roque-Gageac
Beynac-et-Cazenac
les Eyzies-de-Tayac
D76
D707
Bussière-Badil
Vers Brive
Vers CahorsVers
Bergera
c
Vers Villeneuve-
sur-Lot
Vers Libourne
Vers Bordeaux
Vers Barbézieux
Vers Angoulême
Lot
le Buisson-de-Cadouin
Trémolat
Cadouin Belvès
Monpazier
Beaumont
Villefranche-du-Périgord
Daglan
Carsac-AillacSiorac-
en-PérigordMonbazillac
Eymet Falgueyrat
Issigeac
Sigoulès
Gardonne
la ForceLamothe-Montravel
St-Géry
Campsegret
VillamblardIssac
St-Vincent-de-Connezac
D707
D91
D708
D70
9
D70
8
D38
D730
N89
D9
D20
D709
D6089
D710
D21
N21
D936
D93
3
N21
D14
D703
D708
D660
D53
D710
D60
D46
D703
D62
D60
D70
4
D47
D710
D25
D29
D60
D6089
D70
4
D706
N21
D47
D65
D70
6
D62
A89
A89
A89
D5
Vers Brive
N21
N21
D6021
N2089
Carlux
PÉRIGUEUX
Ribérac
St-Astier
Neuvic
La Roche-Chalais
Montpon-Ménestérol
Mussidan
S
N
EO
Villefranche-de-Lonchat
Haute-Vienne
Lot-et-Garonne
Corrèze
Charente
Gironde
Charente-Maritime
Auvézère
Dro
nne
Isle
Isle
Dordogne
Vézè
re
Auvézère
Dro
nne
Isle
Isle
Dordogne
Dordogne
Vézè
re
D85
D675
D75
D12
D675
D939
D708
D939
Lanouaille
Hautefort
Terrasson-la-Villedieu
Thenon
Thiviers
St-Pardoux-la-Rivière
Jumilhac-le-Grand
Brantôme
Nontron
Montagrier
Verteillac
Mareuil
St-Aulaye
Vélines Ste-Foy-la-Grande Bergerac
Vergt
le Bugue
St-Pierre-de-Chignac
Montignac
Sarlat-la-Canéda
PiégutPluviers
Javerlhac
la Rochebeaucourt-et-Argentine
la Tour-Blanche
St-Méard-de-Drône
Lisle
Bourdeilles
Champagnac-de-Belair
Château-l'EvêqueTocane-
St-ApreMensignac
DussacSt-Sulpice-
d'Excideuil
Sarrazac
ExcideuilSt-Germain-des-Prés
Coulaures
Savignac-les-Eglises Tourtoirac
CubjacAntonne-et-Trigonant
BassilacTrélissac
St-Laurent-sur-Manoire Fossemagne Condat-
sur-Vézère
le Lardin-St-Lazare
Varaignes
Chancelade
Main roadSecondary road
Highway
PrefectureSubprefectureCity, villageHighway ExitAirport
Forest
Dordogne
Reproduction interditeJean-Baptiste Nény
Mai 2011
Reproduction interditeJean-Baptiste Nény
Mai 2011
0 10 km
Périgord Pourpre
Périgord Blanc
Périgord Noir
Périgord Vert
Couze-et-St-Front Castelnaud-
la-Chapelle
Lalinde
Limeuil
Marquay
Meyrals
Montcaret
Rouffignac-St-Cernin-de-Reilhac
St-Jean-de-Côle
St-Léon-sur-Vézère
Sorges
Vitrac-Montfort
4
Vers
Limog
es
D4
D75D
704
D78
N21
D78
Salignac-Eyvigues
St-Cyprien
Domme
la Roque-Gageac
Beynac-et-Cazenac
les Eyzies-de-Tayac
D76
D707
Bussière-Badil
Vers Brive
Vers CahorsVers
Bergera
c
Vers Villeneuve-
sur-Lot
Vers Libourne
Vers Bordeaux
Vers Barbézieux
Vers Angoulême
Lot
le Buisson-de-Cadouin
Trémolat
Cadouin Belvès
Monpazier
Beaumont
Villefranche-du-Périgord
Daglan
Carsac-AillacSiorac-
en-PérigordMonbazillac
Eymet Falgueyrat
Issigeac
Sigoulès
Gardonne
la ForceLamothe-Montravel
St-Géry
Campsegret
VillamblardIssac
St-Vincent-de-Connezac
D707
D91
D708
D70
9
D70
8
D38
D730
N89
D9
D20
D709
D6089
D710
D21
N21
D936
D93
3
N21
D14
D703
D708
D660
D53
D710
D60
D46
D703
D62
D60
D70
4
D47
D710
D25
D29
D60
D6089
D70
4
D706
N21D
47
D65
D70
6
D62
A89
A89
A89
D5
Vers Brive
N21
N21
D6021
N2089
Carlux
PÉRIGUEUX
Ribérac
St-Astier
Neuvic
La Roche-Chalais
Montpon-Ménestérol
Mussidan
S
N
EO
Villefranche-de-Lonchat
Haute-Vienne
Lot-et-Garonne
Corrèze
Charente
Gironde
Charente-Maritime
Auvézère
Dro
nne
Isle
Isle
Dordogne
Vézè
re
Auvézère
Dro
nne
Isle
Isle
Dordogne
Dordogne
Vézè
re
D85
D675
D75
D12
D675
D939
D708
D939
Lanouaille
Hautefort
Terrasson-la-Villedieu
Thenon
Thiviers
St-Pardoux-la-Rivière
Jumilhac-le-Grand
Brantôme
Nontron
Montagrier
Verteillac
Mareuil
St-Aulaye
Vélines Ste-Foy-la-Grande Bergerac
Vergt
le Bugue
St-Pierre-de-Chignac
Montignac
Sarlat-la-Canéda
PiégutPluviers
Javerlhac
la Rochebeaucourt-et-Argentine
la Tour-Blanche
St-Méard-de-Drône
Lisle
Bourdeilles
Champagnac-de-Belair
Château-l'EvêqueTocane-
St-ApreMensignac
DussacSt-Sulpice-
d'Excideuil
Sarrazac
ExcideuilSt-Germain-des-Prés
Coulaures
Savignac-les-Eglises Tourtoirac
CubjacAntonne-et-Trigonant
BassilacTrélissac
St-Laurent-sur-Manoire Fossemagne Condat-
sur-Vézère
le Lardin-St-Lazare
Varaignes
Chancelade
Main roadSecondary road
Highway
PrefectureSubprefectureCity, villageHighway ExitAirport
Forest
Dordogne
Reproduction interditeJean-Baptiste Nény
Mai 2011
Reproduction interditeJean-Baptiste Nény
Mai 2011
0 10 km
Périgord Pourpre
Périgord Blanc
Périgord Noir
Périgord Vert
Couze-et-St-Front Castelnaud-
la-Chapelle
Lalinde
Limeuil
Marquay
Meyrals
Montcaret
Rouffignac-St-Cernin-de-Reilhac
St-Jean-de-Côle
St-Léon-sur-Vézère
Sorges
Vitrac-Montfort
Dordogne
5
Bolbo lbo
Bolbo lboKNOWING MORE ABOUT
PÉRIGORDHouses on the banks of the river Vézère - Montignac.© PHOVOIR
Bolbo lbo
Bolbo lboBolbo lbo
Bolbo lboKNOWING MORE ABOUT
PÉRIGORD
Brantôme.© JIMJAG - FOTOLIA
8
KNOW
ING M
ORE ABOUT PÉRIGORD
The Périgord is a department very rich in heritage since it starts from prehistory to reach today, and there are numerous inevitable sites. Land of 1001 castles, caves, sinkholes, cave habitats, gardens, vineyards and medieval towns, you will face a cornelian choice ... The 4 Perigord each have their story shoved espe-cially during the Hundred Years War or during the Second World War.
The vineyards of BergeracThe vineyards of Bergerac, make up along with its 12 000 hectares and 1,200 growers, the other great vineyards of Aquitaine, whose origins go back further in time. With thirteen appellations, all the colours of wines are available: red, rosé, white (dry, soft and sweet). Centered around Bergerac, each appellation generously offers his riches: Red Bergerac, red Côtes de Bergerac, montravel red pécharmant, Bergerac rosé, dry Bergerac, dry montravel for soft: high montravel, Côtes du montravel, coasts blanc-de-bergerac and rosette. Finally, the sweet, the saussignac and monbazillac. By traveling the road of wines, you will encounter wineries, winemakers, who mostly work the vineyard for several generations and in recent years, British, Dutch, etc... fell in love for the Dordogne and wine. Everyone loves to share their passion and are committed to the quality of their production to make the window of a special Périgord, with its own identity.AOC Bergerac red and rosé contain cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot, malbec or côt. Dry Bergerac is made from a blend of Semillon, Sauvignon, Muscadelle Ondenc and chemin blanc. Cabernet sauvignon and franc, merlot, malbec côt or give to the red Côtes de Bergerac this intense dark colour. Semillon is the grape of choice for white Côtes de Bergerac, with a golden colour.The vineyard of the monbazillac appellation covers five municipalities and covers 2,500 hectares. Its wines are rich, from the Sauvignon grape, Semillon, Muscadelle and botrytis infected grapes that give a sweet wine, also called the gold of the Périgord. For a long time, wine was considered men’s « affair ». Today, women have managed to make their way by offering quality products. These women are passionate about their craft, and have created wines full of femininity, sensuality and elegance, and have been making refined products respecting their terroir and vineyard. Each gives her best to harvest and turn to wine in subtle blends which they alone have the secret. The typical features of each wine, a fine bottle and original label, will dazzle your tables and will accompany your dishes successfully.
Château de Beynac�� CHÂTEAU DE BEYNAC
Le BourgBEYNAC-ET-CAZENAC & 05 53 29 50 [email protected] all year. Low season: every day from 10am to 6pm. High season: every day from 10am to 6.30pm. In winter, of 12pm with fallen the day. Free for under 5-year-olds. Adult: E8. Child (from 5 to 11 years old): E3.50. Group rate from E8.Erected on a cliff, 150 meters above the Dordogne river, opposite its lifetime rival Castelnaud, the château de Beynac is an ideal observation point over the valley. The tour will lead you to a knight like trip through the dark guardroom with old style lighting to a spiral staircase at the back of the room. In the apartments you will like the abode floor and the mullioned windows. The kitchen in which some scenes of Luc Besson’s Jeanne d’Arc and Jean- Marie Poiré’s Les Visiteurs were shot will definitely delight you. Equipped with very thick walls, Beynac remains firm. Its rampart where soldiers armed with pikes and spears waited for the attacker, the crenelated thirteenth century dungeon in the courtyard, the hoardings where the soldiers threw stones and loopholes will trigger in you an irresistible envy to visit this English and later on French stronghold. At the end, don’t miss to appreciate the beautiful little chapel, crowned by roofing stones; a typical Perigord covering.
Brantôme Nicknamed « Green Venice of the Perigord » by a president of the Council called Raymond Poincaré, it never drew vainglory of this title. And yet it has no reason to be jealous of other cities in this department. One can only fall under the spell of its banks of the Dronne, its abbey, the totally unusual angled deck and the exceptional carved cave, called « Cave of the Last Judgment. » Prehistoric megalithic and many attrac-tions, its Celtic and Gallo-Roman souvenir, its « cluzeaux » and cave dwellings proves its antiquity. Its bell tower – actually a « campanile » built on the rock – is « the oldest in France » with its « protocoupole » basis and Carolingian capitals. The Benedictine abbey founded by Charlemagne bears the mark of the history of its destruction and recons-truction for more than twelve centuries. Reading the works of one of its abbots: « Brantome » – the man of Catherine de Medici – is essential to an understanding of the sixteenth century. Door of the Parc Naturel Regional Périgord-Limousin and jewel of the Val-de-Dronne, Brantome open all year round to lovers of nature, « Good Life » and « Good Food ». Romantic, relaxing, rich in history, recreation and sports, it brings a different touch to the Périgord.
NOT TO BE MISSED
Find the index at the end of this guide book
NOT TO BE MIssED 10
�� OFFICE DE TOURISME PÉRIGORD DRONNE BELLE6, rue du Puyjoli-de-MeyjounissasBRANTÔME-EN-PÉRIGORD& 05 53 05 80 63www.perigord-dronne-belle.frbrantome@perigord-dronne-belle.frHigh season: open every day from 10am to 7pm. Closed in January. February, March, mid-October, November and December; open every day 10am at 12pm and 2pm at 5pm, closed on Tuesday. April, May and June: every day from 10am to 6pm. From September to mid-October: every day from 10am to 6pm.The Tourist Office is located in the old church Notre-Dame. It includes almost all the municipalities in the cantons of Brantôme, Mareuil and Champagnac-de-Belair. You will be pleasantly received by charming hostesses who will answer your questions. You will also find brochures for accommodation, catering, a complete listing of cultural sites open to visits, festivals, exhibitions, crafts, enter-tainment as well as a shop, screens, a table and a touch terminal.
The village of Bournat – Le Bugue�� PARC À THÈME LE BOURNAT
LE BUGUE& 05 53 08 41 99www.lebournat.fronClosed from October to February. Low season: open every day from 10am to 6pm. High season: every day from 10am to 7pm. Free for under 4-year-olds. Adult: E13.50. Child (from 4 to 12 years old): E9.90. Family package with children from E42. Tourism label & Disability. Catering facilities (at Paul with music on the terrace shaded at the sunny days). Shop.This theme park has scenes of rural life and the popular history of Périgord in the late 19th century on 7 hectares: the school benches, the farm and crops, the old trades and crafts (walnut oil mill, still, locomobile, limonaire, tools, horse carriages...), the toys and objects of every day’s life of the time. The entertainment follows one another in the village: active craftsmen revive the ancestral professions, batch of country bread, forging, funfair with rides of yesteryear, games of yesteryear such as bowling. Comedians animate the streets dressed in period costume. Children are looked after in the manual-activity workshops (writing with quill, stone carving, bread in baking room, glass beads) and tale sessions. Old silent films are projected in an old tobacco-drying barn while the rides (caterpillar 1900, chahut-bahut, butterfly carousel, coconut shy, rigolarium, rickshaw...) attract the youngest. The Grande Roue of the beginning of the 20th century offers a unique panorama, day and night. Other activities: a 40-minute boat trip on the wet land channels, a mini farm with goats, rabbits, ponies, cows, ducks, etc... and the acquisition of 2 electric reproductions of a Stanley mountain wagon, the forbearer of the bus... You can spend two hours or the entire day in the village.
Night life in high season when the lights of the lanterns stretch to the open-air café and on the restaurant’s terrace until midnight.
Château de Castelnaud�� CHATEAU DE CASTELNAUD
Musée de la Guerre au Moyen-AgeCASTELNAUD-LA-CHAPELLE& 05 53 31 30 00 – [email protected] all year. Low season: every day from 10am to 6pm. High season: every day from 9am to 8pm. Free for under 10-year-olds. Adult: E8.40. Child (from 10 to 17 years old): E4.20. Group (20 people): E5.80. Night tour: adult, E11, from 5 to 15 years old child, E6. Reduced rates before 1pm in July and August (E7.40 for the adults and E3.70 for the children). Children welcome (reading room for entertaining break around the Middle Ages, interactive multi-media game). Activities.This fortress founded in the twelfth century, built on a rocky outcrop overlooks the village, that it towers over right through with its ramparts.Taken away five times by the English, the castle will proudly regain its commitment to the lily only in 1442. It will become recreational home and the artillery tower will be built around 1520. Almost untouched during the religious wars, it will slowly be forgotten after the Revolution. Its collection of weapons and armour and the life-size restitutions of war machines – mangonneau, catapult, pierrière, hold – are precious richness to better understand the art of war in the Middle Ages and the life of the lords. It is also an opportunity to have an insight into the history of this castle through the tactical choices and yesteryear fighting strategies. At dusk from July 10 to August 30, two actors take the audience on a journey through time. For children, an educational booklet to arouse their curiosity during the visit is available (free) to the ticket office, and many events around the Middle Ages are scheduled during school holidays: donning armor, trebuchet shooting demonstration, weapons training, forge demonstration.
Musée national de la préhistoire des Eyzies�� MUSÉE NATIONAL DE PRÉHISTOIRE
1, rue du MuséeLES EYZIES-DE-TAYAC-SIREUIL& 05 53 06 45 45www.musee-prehistoire-eyzies.frmnp.eyzies@culture.gouv.fronlLow season: open Wednesday to Monday from 9.30am to 12.30pm and from 2pm to 5.30pm. High season: Wednesday to Monday from 9.30am to 6pm; every day from 9.30am to 6.30pm. High season in July and August, mid-season in June and September. Free for under 25-year-olds (citizens EU). Adult: E6. Tourism label & Disability. Guided tour. Activities. Library.
✆ +33 (0)5 53 05 80 63www.per igord-dronne-be l l e . f r
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Brantôme Abbey
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This is THE museum of the world’s capital of prehistory, the gateway to understand the visit of the shelters nearby in their context. With the acquisition of locally sourced items but also from other regions of France, Jean-Jacques Cleyet-Merle, the director of this magnificent museum and valuable employees have recreated the complete chronological order of the Palaeolithic period, since the installation of the first hunter-gatherers in Aquitaine -400,000 years, until the end of the ice ages which is -10,000 years BCE. The tool collections and works of prehistoric art unearthed in the area are always presented with the same chronological and geological interests. Flint knapping, but also many European Venuses are in the spotlight. The tour examines the lithic and bone industry, engraved and carved blocks – the first set of this kind in the world – the furniture art, burials, prehistoric fauna. The museum offers a parietal art furniture shop during the holidays, on reservation: children with the tools of our ancestors, are transformed into prehistoric artists.
Lascaux II�� LASCAUX II
MONTIGNAC& 05 53 51 95 03 / 05 53 05 65 [email protected] in January. Low season: open Tuesday to Sunday from 10am to 12pm and from 2pm to 6pm. High season: every day from 9am to 7pm. Open between 1pm and 2pm during school holidays. Free for under 5-year-olds. Adult: E9.90. Child (from 5 to 12 years old): E6.40. Group (20 people): E7.70. Ticket coupled with Le Thot: adult E13.50 and child E9.40. Ticket office in downtown (ticket Bertran de Born) from April 1st to September 30th. Guided tour (40 min).
On September 12th, 1940, in the darkness barely troubled by the flimsy light of their lamps, four teenagers disco-vered a narrowing where they discerned the first paintings on the walls. These « inventors » of the Lascaux cave had uncovered one of the most beautiful caves in the world. In danger of extinction due to the pollution by the carbon dioxide exhaled by visitors and light, « the Sistine Chapel of Prehistory », dear to abbott Breuil, was closed to the public in 1963. Its conservation status continues to mobilize researchers and a scientific committee, chaired by Yves Coppens, is constantly at work. The objects found on site are visible in the National Museum of Prehistory, at Eyzies. A facsimile was made in 1983, 200 metres from the original cave. No other solution than this replica to keep the real cave intact. The work done by the artists reproduced to the nearest centimetre, the polychromatic paintings that were executed 17,000 years ago. They have perfectly rendered the volume of the original cavity, the relief walls, and even more amazing, the epidermis of the rock. The two reproduced galleries are the Salle des Taureaux and the Diverticule Axial, which hold 90% of the Lascaux paintings: horses, aurochs, bison, deer, ibex and a bear. You will probably come back different from this journey in the heart of the cradle of humankind. On site, the visitor center allows you to collect the documentation and the shop offers all sorts of books and souvenirs. In view of the success of Lascaux II, the department carried out Lascaux IV, focused on the integral reproduction of the Lascaux Cave and on the use of the new technologies related to image and virtual at the mediation service. The opening is scheduled on December 15th, 2016.
MontpazierThis bastide of regular plan has more than 700 years. It has traveled through time, almost untouched since the thirteenth century, which lets you enjoy its irregular arcades, its market ground with units of measurement used in the grain trade, the St. Dominic Church and the fourteenth century home of Chapter ... Considered a model amongst the 300 country houses built in the Southwest, it develops a perfect rectangular plan. The houses surrounding the Cornières square built between the Middle Ages and the seventeenth, 32 buildings in the village are thus classified by the Historic Monuments. Monpazier is the birthplace of Jean Galmot, journalist, writer and member of Parliament from Guyana, ruined and murdered by his political opponents at the beginning of this century.
Parc naturel régional Périgord‑Limousin�� PARC NATUREL RÉGIONAL
PÉRIGORD-LIMOUSINMaison du parc la BardeTHE SHELL – & 05 53 55 36 [email protected] in 1998, the Périgord-Limousin regional natural park straddles two regions at the same time, Aquitaine and Limousin, and two departments, Dordogne and
© E
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The site of the national Prehistory museum.
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Haute-Vienne. A preserved country, built on a human scale and with a rich heritage, it has almost 50,000 inha-bitants and 180,000 hectares. You can visit outstan-ding natural sites all year round. Land of tradition with original know-how (« charentais » slippers, Nontron knife, chestnut crafts and basketry, extraction of gold...), the park is also a place of celebration and conviviality (bellows Carnival, festivals of mushroom, wood, chestnut, festival of bandas, turkeys fair). Many museums, churches and castles open to the public and themed itineraries such as the route Richard Cœur de Lion reveal a rich and sometimes turbulent history. Other places such as the Museum of Contemporary Art of Rochechouart or the experimental Pole Métiers d’Art of Nontron, reveal the vitality of the creative spirit in the Périgord-Limousin. In 2013, the Périgord-Limousin Regional Natural Park received the European Charter for Sustainable Tourism certificate in Brussels.
Musée gallo‑romain Vesunna de Périgueux�� MUSÉE GALLO-ROMAIN VESUNNA
20, rue du 26e-Régiment-d’InfanteriePÉRIGUEUX& 05 53 53 00 [email protected] two weeks in January. High season: open every day from 10am to 7pm. From April to June and in September: Tuesday to Friday from 9.30am to 5.30pm, weekend and public holidays from 10am to 12.30pm and from 2.30pm to 6pm. From October to March: Tuesday to Friday from 9.30am to 12.30pm and from 1.30pm to 5pm, weekend from 10am to 12.30pm and from 2.30pm to 6pm. Adult: E6. Reduced rate: E4. Free for under 6-year-olds, recipients of social minimums, disabled people and their guide. Tourism label & Disability. Shop. Activities.Located in the heart of the ancient city, on the remains of a vast residence of the first century, this museum is unique in France by its concept, of which the architecture of glass and steel was designed by Jean Nouvel. Vesunna is organized around two architectural spaces designed as mezzanines overlooking the vestiges of the domus and that over an area of nearly 700 m² on the ground. Both balconies have full exposure to Vesonne. The main attraction of this space is the sculpted stone collection from the ramparts of the Lower Empire. The domus, witness of the extent of the remains of the old city is an essential element of the site. Everything is organized around it, the heart of the house, the peristyle garden and rooms. The setting is protected by an umbrella from
metal worn by 14 pillars with 9 meters high. The glass walls allow you to play with the landscape. You will enjoy the spectacular views of the archaeological site and the discovery of the complex, in details on wooden footbridges. Wall paintings in situ, ceramics, jewelry are proposed. 50 showcases displaying about the life of yesteryear are as interesting as the wall paintings. Temporary exhibitions complete the visit. The museum has just acquired a document for visually-impaired and blind people. It is spiral-bound sheets which present in relief the monuments of the city, the remains, objects, etc. A text in big letters and Braille specifies the name of the images. The shop offers a small guide Vesunna, visit guide, in an interactive version. It follows the direction of the visit, integrates the images extracted from the film La domus de Vésone et son décor. It allows you to access, thanks to QR codes, some tracks of the audio guide, entertainment and film. Finally, while visiting the site www.perigueux-vesunna.fr you will find more than 1,000 objects that can be seen by visiting the museum, thanks to a few clicks, with their pictures and a very accurate description.
Sarlat‑la‑CanédaThe capital of Périgord Noir is installed in the hollow hills that are called « pechs. » Sarlat-la-Caneda, city of art and history, was born in the ninth century and is built around a Benedictine abbey. Very quickly the city enriched under the direct authority of the Holy See in Rome. The Hundred Years War (1337 -1453) and the plague had serious economic and demographic consequences. During the reconstruction in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries the city was adorned with beautiful mansions. Commercial and craft activities developed, and new ideas emerged with Étienne de La Boétie. The city retained its plume until the eighteenth century and decline begins because of its geographic isolation. In the end, it will be a chance for the city. In 1962, André Malraux introduced an Act on trotected areas, and Sarlat-la-Caneda was the first to benefit. For 25 years, successive restorations revived the medieval city. Recent repaving streets and gaslight extended the operation. Today Sarlat-la-Caneda is the first city in Europe by number of listed buildings per m2 with 11 ha, 253 buildings, 18 monuments and 59 listed monuments. This is a real gem, witness of medieval and Renaissance eras. Sarlat-la-Caneda truly found his breath and splendor season, revealing more modestly narrow alleys, courtyards, mansions assimilating all ages (medieval foundations, floors Renaissance, classical roofs). Another specificity of Sarlat-la-Caneda, is the roofing slate. This is the famous limestone plates, affixed to roofs representing a weight of 500 kg to 850 kg per m2.
Failing to cover large areas of mountain or wetlands, Perigord derives its great natural wealth from its contact situation between contrasted geographical factors. The landscapes are characterized by a fine interweaving of small or large forest areas, meadows, fields of crops, vineyards, woods and hedgerows, moors and wetlands, rivers and ponds, calcareous grasslands, or traditional hamlets scattered surrounded by old orchards ...
GeographyThe department of Dordogne is named after the Dordogne river which takes its source at the foot of the Sancy and joins the Garonne at the Ambes beak, after a journey of 472 km. It crosses the department from east to west in the southern part. Dordogne integrates most of the Aquitaine Basin and its north-east fringe to the Massif Central. Great by its history, the Périgord is also famous for its proportions: 100 km from east to west, 100 kilo-meters from north to south for almost 9,200 km2. The third French department by its surface after the Landes and Gironde, has nothing uniform: a hike in the gorge of Auvézère is an experience through steep trails in the Massif Central and a trip to the vineyards of Bergerac recalls inevitably the neighbouring Bordeaux. From one to the other, a world of opposites mingle and false similarities, set of colours and shapes, inseparable lands that make up a single trip.The Dordogne is part of the Aquitaine basin, its relief is low and the climate is undergoing some oceanic influences. 45 % of its surface is forested and it is also the third forest department of France. Set astride the Aquitaine sedimentary basin and backing onto the crystalline basement of the Massif Central, Perigord is often called the « transition countries » as the diversity of the landscape is amazing. This rugged terrain is due to the combination of a dense hydrological network and disparate geological structure. We distinguish a mosaic of individual countries even within the Perigord. They were grouped into four tourist areas, commonly called « The 4 Périgord ‘Périgord Vert, the Périgord Blanc, the Périgord Pourpre and the Périgord Noir.
ClimateAlthough located at the same latitude as Montreal or Vladivostok, Périgord enjoys a climate of the oceanic type, eminently temperate, thanks to the influence of the Gulf Stream, where warm water comes to heat the ocean façade of Europe. However, frequent continental influences lower winter temperatures.�w Temperatures: the temperature is soft and pleasant ;
but it varies in a considerable way between north and south of the department, average deviations of 2°C in summer against 10°C to 15°C in winter. On average, the highest temperature is 27°c to 32°C , and the lowest
temperatures of 10° to 14 degrees below zero. Three reasons can explain this phenomenon : first and foremost, due to the altitude. Then, according to the nature of the soil and the exhibition. Finally, from the valleys, the jumble of the hills, the profile and the exhibition of the slopes, the essarts, forests, the ponds which contribute to a more or less marked create a range of microclimates. Typically, the first fall frost appear in Oct. 21 in the centre and east of the department. Eight and fifteen days later, they appear in the areas of large valleys and the lower heights. Then, around on November 11th, 20 days later, it is the turn of marked heights. A phenomenon identical, but opposite, intervenes for the last frost of spring, always according to topography. The difference observed for the last frost dates between sites valleys and heights sites is about 3 weeks, and generally ranges from 1 April to 16 April, reaching exceptionally May 1. Therefore the temperature is colder on the borders of Limousin, foothills of the Massif Central, than in the lower valleys and the part covered with wood. In the same way, the temperature is colder on the granites of Nontronais than on chalks and limestone specific to the Aquitaine sedimentary pool. In addition to these variations in temperature between north and south, also note a permanent instability of the time that results in the alternation of a large sun, rain showers, often in the same day. This instability is due to the clash of warm tropical air masses and cold polar air over the Atlantic Ocean. Prevailing winds are from the east-southeast autumn and winter, and west-northwest summer.�w Sunshine: the sun is in the range of 1 900-2 000 hours
annually from north to south of the Dordogne. At Bergerac, the least sunny year for the last ten years was in 1992 with 1,710 hours and the sunniest was 1989 with 2300 hours. In winter the sun is more important in Sarlat on the Ribéracois, due to a slightly continental influence on the east and the relief of the department, while further west, the oceanic influence brings smoothness but fog or low clouds. In spring, summer and autumn sunshine duration is stronger on the southwestern department than elsewhere.�w Rainfall: the Dordogne is quite watered with an
average water depth of 860 mm. Certain amounts of water collected in storm can be very important as the 100 mm recorded on 17 May 1971 at the station of Bergerac. The least rainy region is Bergerac with an average 112 days per year and 800 mm. The wettest area is the Nontronnais with 1160 mm Piégut-Plovers. Winter and spring are very wet often exceeding 90 mm; summer is very dry with an average minimum of 40 mm of rain, autumn is the best season. There are rarely falls of snow and never in abundance, although it is not uncommon in the Perigord Vert.�w Wind: Prevailing winds are from the east-south-east
in fall and winter, and west-northwest in summer.
NATURE
NATURE 15
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Relief�w Characteristics of the landscape : mainly plains,
valleys and some hills.�w Valleys and water courses: the Dordogne is named
after the Dordogne river which takes its source at the foot of the Sancy and joins the Garonne at the Ambes beak, after a journey of 472 km. It crosses the department from east to west in the southern part. Dordogne integrates most of the Aquitaine Basin and in its north-east fringe to the Massif Central. From north-east to south-west rivers with many streams as tributaries flow: Dropt, Dordogne, Vézère, Auvézère Dronne.�w Caves and chasms: the caves and chasms are located
mainly along the Dordogne Valleys and Vézère, especially in Périgord in Eyzies and Montignac.�w Geology: The 4 Périgord each have geological
characteristics.Le Périgord vert is backed by the crystal base of the Massif Central. There are rocks formed by the primary era like granites of Piègut, gneiss of La Coquille, crystalline schist de Lanouaille. The metal minerals, lead and zinc are also present, as well as quartz (Saint-Paul-la-Roche) but also gold as in Jumilhac-le-Grand.In the centre of the department, Périgord Blanc is the country of the plateaux of clay and limestone on the white and grey ground often covered with calcareous clay layer favourable to the forest and strawberry. It is also the country of the large fields criss-crossed by Auvézère and Isle, without forgetting the poor soil made of gravel and sand and clay of La Double, between L’isle and the Dronne.Le Périgord Pourpre south enjoys sediments deposited at the time of the erosion of the Pyrenees and the Massif Central.Périgord Noir east consists of a bedrock of Cretaceous limestone conducive to « rock shelters » and other cave dwellings. Erosion has carved the cracked rocks causing sinkholes, chasms, caves, dry valleys where groundwater are lost. Clay deposits accumulated discontinuously during the Tertiary period have contributed to the diversity of the landscapes of this region.�w Forests and wood: The forest which represents 45%
of the territory spread everywhere is the green lung of the Perigord. Like a mosaic of rich leaf essences, it occupies the territory alternating with woods and culture and clay-limestone soil where the famous wild orchids grow, but also the truffles of Perigord black diamonds.�w Marshes: the largest marsh in the department is
the Groléjac with an area of 25 ha. It was converted into a recreation body of water while preserving the nature of the bog.
The 4 PérigordsSet up astride the Aquitaine sedimentary basin and backing onto the crystalline basement of the Massif Central Perigord is often called the « transition country » as the diversity of the landscape is amazing. This rugged terrain is due to the combination of a dense hydrological network and disparate geological structure. We distin-guish a mosaic of individual countries even within the Perigord. They were grouped into four tourist areas, commonly called « the 4 Perigord »: the Périgord Vert, the Périgord Blanc, the Périgord Poupre and Périgord Noir.�w Perigord Vert. The term « Périgord Vert « was
already used in the travel notes of Jules Verne, which is particularly suitable for this hilly and generously watered green lush, appropriate for tourism ... « green. » It is the country with a neat clearly dominant orientation to poly-culture farming . A country that exudes well- being and tradition! Originally , the term « Périgord Vert « applied only to limousine parts of the department, correspon-ding to the region of « Nontronnais . » Added to it the countries of Dronne, it is the whole North of Dordogne which is included. Located in the northern department, the green Perigord is backed by the crystalline basement of the Massif Central. There are therefore rocks formed in the primary era, prior to the Carboniferous: Piègut granites, gneiss La Coquille, crystalline schists Lanouaille. Also present metal ores, lead and zinc, as well as quartz (Saint-Paul-la-Roche). Note finally, the presence of gold as evidenced by the gold gallery of Jumilhac.�w Périgord Blanc. The term « Périgord Blanc »
traditionally refers to the white limestone plateaus of Ribéracois-Verteillacois (which now belong to the Périgord Vert). These well-cleared agricultural areas opposed the densely forested areas of Sarlat which were called black Périgord. Today, this appellation is attributed to the country of Périgueux, the Isle Valley down to the west and the Auvézère up towards the east. White is now the limestone cliffs of Saint-Astier, and stones of Causse Perigord. Hautefort up to Montpon, through Périgueux, Périgord Blanc includes among others, the towns of Savignac-les-Eglises, Sorges, Saint-Astier, Neuvic and Musselburgh. Périgueux, Roman and renaissance city, capital of Périgord, is undoubtedly the major attraction of this region. Located in the centre of the department, the Périgord Blanc is the land of limestone plateaus with chalky whites and gray soils often covered with a clay-limestone layer favorable to the forest and strawberry. It is also the country of wide meadows crisscrossed by Auvézère and the Isle, without forgetting the poor soil composed of sand and gravel Clay of La Double, between the Isle and Dronne.
The Dordogne awarded by UNESCOThe International Coordinating Council of MAB (Man and the Biosphere) of UNESCO listed in 2012 the Dordogne basin in the global network of biosphere reserves. This measure concerns the river, its source, the puy du Sancy, to the mouth of the Gironde, on an area of 24 000 m². It includes the tributaries and the six departments watered by the River: Puy-de-Dôme, Cantal, Corrèze, Lot, the Dordogne and the Gironde estuary. This label is attributed to sites that have a great environmental richness and preserve their natural balance.
NATURE 16
�w The Périgord Pourpre. The name « Périgord Pourpre » is the most recent. It dates from the early 1990s. The purple colour evokes the dominant colours of the vine, and the autumn colours of the Bessède forest. The area affected by the Dordogne, is virtually the district of Bergerac, excluding the cantons of St. Alvère and Buisson, but extended to that of Villefranche -du -Périgord. From Saint-Michel-de-Montaigne up to Villefranche-du-Périgord, through Bergerac, Perigord Pourpre counts, among others, the towns of Montcaret, Vélines, Sigoulès, Issigeac, Monbazillac Lalinde, Beaumont, Monpazier and Eymet. Bergerac, the capital of Périgord Pourpre, worth a detour. Erosion, which attacked the Massif Central, has filed sediments of gravel, sand and clay that have accumulated in the depressions of the Double Landais, the Bessède, as well as around Villefranche-Lonchat. In Bergerac the erosion of the Pyrenees deposited sediment in the form of molasses, alternating with deposits of hard lacustrine limestones of the tertiary era. Enjoying a mild climate, thanks to the fertility of the alluvial valley of the Dordogne, southern cultures flourish: corn, sunflower, orchards, tobacco, while in the south lie the grain fields and Ente plum orchards (that is to say graft). But the main attraction of this area is its famous vineyards, rich in 13 appellations, covering the undulating hills of limestone and sandstone.�w Périgord Noir. The name « Perigord Noir » refers to the
high density of holm oaks or oaks whose foliage is dense, dark and persistent. This designation is the oldest, and its popularity on the tourist market has led the Dordogne Departmental Committee of Tourism to propose a division of Périgord in four major visit and stay areas. Périgord Noir essentially corresponds to the district of Sarlat-la-Caneda plus the cantons of Thenon Sainte-Alvère and Buisson, but minus that of Villefranche-du-Périgord. This is by far the most visited of the department because of the many world-famous prehistoric sites (Les Eyzies, Lascaux), the medieval town of Sarlat-la-Caneda-la-Caneda region, the castles of the Dordogne valley (Montfort, Beynac, Castelnaud) and Domme. It should be noted that Sarlat-la-Caneda-la-Caneda is the European city with the most registered or classified monuments per square kilometre. Périgord Noir consists of a bedrock of Cretaceous limestone conducive to « rock shelters » and other cave habitats (along the Vézère near Les Eyzies-de-Tayac, or Dordogne near Beynac and La Roque-gageac). Erosion has carved the cracked rocks causing sinkholes, chasms, caves, dry valleys where groundwater are lost. Clay deposits accu-mulated discontinuously during the Tertiary period have contributed to the diversity of the landscapes of this region. Finally, the large amplitude of climatic variations of the Quaternary shaped the hydraulic system and designed the valleys that we know today.
Fauna & FloraFauna�w Reptiles: grass snakes and vipers.�w Birds: the biodiversity of the department supports
the presence of many birds. The cliffs well repre-
sented in Périgord accommodate rare and protected species : peregrine falcon, large corbeau, genette and tichodrôme.�w Fish: the Dordogne river has 40 fish species,
including 8 migratory species including the sturgeon, the Atlantic salmon, eel, the Allis shad, the alose feints, the fluviatile lamprey, the marine lamprey, sea trout. You can also fish carp, pike, pins, bleaks trout, etc.�w Insects: the insects found throughout the
countryside are mosquitoes, bees, wasps and recently the Asian Frelon.
Flora�w Trees, bushes: There are mainly broad-leaved trees
like the oak trees (32%), and chestnut trees (26%); the maritime pine represents 25% of the coniferous trees.
Parks & Nature ReservesThe Dordogne has a regional nature park of the périgord-limousin which overlaps two regions (the Aquitaine and Limousin) and two departments (Dordogne and Haute-Vienne). (See the Inevitable ones).
Nature ReservesThe Dordogne has three natural reserves: Liorac in Bergerac (428 ha), Marshes of Groléjac (15 ha) in black Périgord and Peyssac (80 ha) in white Périgord.
Animal ParksThere are six wildlife parks in the department: Aquarium of Périgord noir to Bugue, Le Thot with Thonac, the animal farm Touron with Campsegret, the zoo, the Mescoulès zoological reserve of Calviac and the regional park of périgord-limousin.
GardensThe renewed interest for gardens in recent years was an opportunity for a renewal of Perigord parks, many of which are now open to visitors. Behind every garden, there is a story. To discover them, push the gate of these extraordinary places dotted around our beautiful province ... You will make amazing discoveries in finding there a bit of past generations’ art. Some are so large they give the illusion of living in the countryside. You can see some who are full of exotics and you just need to go there to find yourself at the other end of the world. There are those who have been drawn as the triumphal route to a palace and which betray the pride of their creator. Other, more intimate, offer a place of meditation and inspiration to poets, philosophers and writers ... There are also those that are the result of curiosity or science whose interminable Latin names still increase their strange-ness. Finally, there are those that show a time or art: they draw the landscape as a baroque Gothic-inspired architecture or Renaissance, the French influences, Italian or English.
KNOW
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Department « of Perigueux » or « Périgord » was created by decision of the Constituent Assembly on 25 January 1790. It was not until a month later, on 26 February 1790 that the name of Dordogne was retained after the final adoption of the list of French departments. The Dordogne was formed almost of all the former province of Périgord (786,048 hectares) and part of Agen (99,250 hectares), both countries belonging to the former Guyenne and that a portion of the Limousin (25,858 hectares) and Angoumois (30,250 hectares). Since 1972, when the 22 French regions were created, the Dordogne is attached to Aquitaine.
PrehistoryThe prehistory science was born here, in Périgord, in the late nineteenth century. The eponymous times, Magdalenian, Mousterian, Gravettian, etc..have proved to us after a long sleep. In the valley of the Vézère, Abbe Breuil, Leroi-Gourhan, Denis Peyrony and many others have tried to read the traces left by our ancestors 32,000 years ago. The new National Museum of Eyzies provides the knowledge needed to better appreciate the visit of caves and deposits, Font-de-Gaume, Rouffignac, and many others, especially the jewel of Lascaux (17,000 years), closed since 1963 for conservation reasons but compensated by a quite disturbing replica. Latest discovery to date, the cave houses Cussac panels engraved with animal figures and traces of 22,000 years old, as well as human bone remains (closed to visitors).
AntiquityWhen the Romans entered this part of Gaul which now forms the Dordogne, it was occupied by the Petrocorii, a Gallic tribe, whose name after various changes made in the language of the time, is found in the name of Périgord, which was that of the province of which we will promptly tell the story. The historic period preceding the period in which the conquest of Gaul by the Romans took place , there is little documentation. We only know that the people of this country, Celts originally practiced religion of the Druids, to which they were strongly attached. The city of Vesunna (Périgueux), at an earlier age in our time, was already a flourishing city. The Phoenicians of Marseille came there to exchange the goods from the Levant. This province was subject to Rome, for sixty-three years, when Caesar came for the first time in Gaul. After the defeat of Vercingetorix, which the Pétrocoriens had sent a rescue of 5,000 men, Caesar ordered one of his lieutenants to compress the patriotic impulses aroused in this country by the glorious struggle which had just finished. The Pétrocoriens took part in the revolt of Vindex, who, wishing to overthrow the Emperor Nero had offered the empire to Galba (69). This revolt was quelled by Virginius Rufus.
Middle AgesPérigord was included in the territory that the weak emperor Honorius handed over to the barbarians (Visigoth), whose numerous hordes invaded the south of Gaul. Since then, this province shared the fate of the kingdom of the Visigoths until Clovis Ist, king of the Franks, had Alaric defeated in Vouillé in 507. Before Clovis had been baptized, Christianity had already penetrated the Périgord for one or two centuries ago. It was said to have been introduced by St. Front, a contemporary disciple of Christ. On the tomb of St. Front, a chapel was built in the sixth century, and towards the end of the tenth century, the abbey soon grouped around it a lot of houses. Thus arose the town of Puy-Saint-Front, which soon will be of equal importance with the city of Vésone (Périgueux), from which it had so quickly evolved. Perigord was then involved in all the vicissitudes which agitated Aquitaine in its fight against the mayors of the palace. It belonged successively to Clotaire I, Guntram, Childebert II, Clotaire II and Dagobert. In 630, it was included in the treaty that founded the kingdom of Toulouse, where the dukes of Aquitaine ruled. Charlemagne, on his way to Spain, crossed the county of Périgord, where he founded the priory of Trémolat, and gave the government of that province to Vidbode, whose successors remained unknown until Wulgrin, which was the first of its hereditary counts, and which the people who admired his courage gave the nickname Taillefer, because of his successful exploits against the Normans, who were beginning to ravage Aquitaine. Through a marriage which took place in 970, the county came under the control of the house of the March, which was then headed by Helie I, a cruel man, whose end was miserable. This count is the first who took the name Talleyrand, illustrated by four generations later. His successor Adalbert, led by his warlike mood to the walls of Tours, in pursuit of the Count of Blois, found himself face to face with Hugues Capet. This prince, too weak to repel the aggressor, sent this request: « Who made you Count? « Without deigning to reply, Adalbert made him turn this question: « Who made you king? « The Count of Périgord was in fact sovereign just like the Count of Paris. Seventy-two years that elapsed between the year 1158 and 1240 - the same period of the wars against the English – were filled by the rivalry that broke out between the town of Puy-Saint-Front and city of Périgueux, fomented by the Count of Perigord on the one hand, and the abbot of Saint-Front on the other, who claimed to exercise in the village some manorial rights. But finally, in 1240, the free city joined the town released from any obligation to the count, and the conflicts ceased. In the twelfth century, the marriage of Eléonore of Aquitaine with Henry II Plantagenet gave Périgord to the English. The counts of Périgord joined to all efforts that have been made to free the French soil from foreign yoke.
HISTORY
HIsTORy 18
The country was militarily occupied; many fortresses erected, but during this long and disastrous war period, which lasted from Louis the Young to Charles VII, if too often these people were forced to undergo the yoke of foreigners we can say to their credit that they never accepted. Resistance that the main cities of Périgord opposed to the English was always glorious and sometimes triumphant. In 1356, Périgueux repulsed the enemy three times, who only managed to settle in the city thanks to the Treaty of Brétigny (1360), signed by King John, the loser of Poitiers. Happier than Perigueux, Sarlat-la-Caneda-la-Caneda did not fall in the hands of the English, it agreed only at the end of the fourteenth century, to grant them the right to trade with its inha-bitants. Of the various vicissitudes experienced by the province in this evil day, you can have a fair idea seeing in the space of two centuries, how many times it has changed sovereign. The county of Périgord returned to France in 1224, it was returned to England in 1258, and then confiscated by Philip the Fair in 1294, returned again to England in 1303, conquered by Philip of Valois, it was assigned a third time to the English by the Treaty of Brétigny (1360) and then conquered by Charles V, King of France given under English rule towards the end of the reign of Charles VI, and finally definitively acquired by the Crown in 1454. This county, confiscated in the name of Archambaud V (1391), was sold to Jean de Bretagne, count of Penthièvre and Viscount of Limoges; later Antoine de Bourbon accepted it as a dowry, and, by its Henri IV son, it was punited to France.
From The Renaissance To The RevolutionThe era of disastrous wars against foreigners had just ended that another terrible one will start, bloodiest perhaps, because the influence exerted in this province by the house of Albi will surprisingly facilitate the progress of the reformed religion that was beginning to spread in France. Few provinces were proven with such cruelty. Périgueux was important that each party would naturally try to win. The fight was also often concentrated in this unfortunate city. Devoted to the king’s party, it was surprised in 1575 by Langoiran and Vivans, Protestant leaders, who settled there. It even became one of the safe havens of Protestants under the Edict of 1576, and they kept it until 1581, when it fell under the power of Catholics. Most major cities of the province experienced the same vicissitudes as the capital. Bergerac, that firstly became the boulevard of Protestantism, was taken by the Catholics in 1562. But they were driven out a year later. This unfortunate town was taken and retaken several times again, until finally it was obliged to surrender to Louis XIII who razed its fortifications, as a punishment for being associated with the fate of the Dukes of Rohan and Force, leaders of the Protestant party. Ribérac and Nontron did not escape the scourge of war either. The first, in 1568, was a refuge for Reformed debris troops who, under the orders of Mouvans, were beaten by the Duke of Montpensier, around Mensignac. In 1592, the cities of Périgord, Périgueux, among others, were influenced by the League, but with the accession of Henry IV any hint of
rebellion disappeared. When the troubles of the Fronde burst, and while Sarlat-la-Caneda drove the Prince de Conde who entered its walls and ser a garrison, Périgueux were required by the same prince to house a garrison commanded by the Marquis of Chanlost, talented but very cruel man. The Marquis de Chanlost kept this city to the Prince of Conde, until Joseph Bodin, helped a few intrepid citizens , handed under the authority of the king. The Marquis having learned that a conspiracy was formed against him , marched at the head of many troops, to the house of Bodin , the leader of the conspirators, but he had no sooner entered recklessly, with thirty men in a dark and narrow corridor, he was received by Bodin and his friends decided to resist to death.From the first shock, Chanlost was mortally wounded, and his demoralized soldiers soon had fled (16 September 1653). During the seventeenth century, the revocation of the Edict of Nantes, issued by Henry IV in favor of Protestants, was a severe blow to the department where the reform had taken deep roots. The town of Bergerac especially had much to suffer. Part of this population of this rich and industrious city was forced to emigrate. This department, throughout the course of the eighteenth century, has been the scene of no disorder or event that deserves to be reported, and when the Revolution broke out in 1789, apart from some inevitable unrest, representatives of Romme and Lakanal succedded in maintaining, even in the most critical moments, order and tranquility.
From The Revolution To The 21st CenturyFor centuries the peasant condition hardly changed in the Dordogne. In 1899 Eugène Le Roy publishes Jacquou le Croquant, a story so striking that it’s hard to admit that Jacquou never existed. This novel recounts the suffering of countrysides that are not extinguished even in the nineteenth century when the Republic was gradually set in France. The nobles lost a little ground but bourgeois took their place. Dordogne will have difficulty to turn the page of old notables and the Empire. To this is added the Masonic influence. Bergerac is the first city to light fires in 1747. A few years later it was the turn of Sarlat and Périgueux. Elected officials of the Third Republic in Perigord have no particle but they are doctors, lawyers, teachers and later craftsmen or traders. They are far from revolutionaries, but they defend the essential humanistic values. They were radicals who dominated the political scene throughout the Third Republic. Their impact began to crumble in 1936 because they are torn between the left alliance and centrist alternative rather right. Blum is surrounded by some of them as Delbos or Suzanne Lacorre, both of Périgord. World War II has hit the department where Resistance was organized early in the countryside. Municipalities suffered reprisals: Mouleydier near Bergerac was burnt down by the Germans in 1944 after a fierce battle. Masonry has played an important role. And Camille Bedin, a brother of Tolerance, was the only member who refused périgourdin full powers to Pétin in 1940.
HIsTORy 19
KNOW
ING M
ORE ABOUT PÉRIGORD
After the war the Dordogne resumed its rather « peaceful » land. The General Council will be chaired by the radical leftist Robert Lacoste born in Azerat where he was mayor. Finance officer, CGT union member, he participated in the Resistance. In 1956 he became minister-resident and Governor-General of Algeria until May 1958. Supporter of the high way, he was a major player in the war in Algeria and defended its maintenance in the French Republic. He served in the National Assembly from 1962 to 1967. From 1971 to 1980, he was elected socialist senator of the Dordogne, while assuming, from 1974 to 1979, vice-president of the Aquitaine Regional Council and the Presidency of the General Council.Meanwhile Yves Guéna, a Breton married to a Perigord, Compagnon de la Libréation of Charles de Gaulle, weaves his web in this well-established left earth. He arrived in Périgord in the 60s, implements the Post Seals Printing house of Boulazac in 1968, when he was Minister of Posts and Telecommunications. Périgueux mayor from 1971 to 1997, he will also be, General Counsel, Member of Parliament and Senator. He will face several times in another future minister, parachuted into Périgord, Roland Dumas, who defeated him at the legislative particularly in 1981. Appointed to the Constitutional Council in 1997 by
Jacques Chirac, Yves Guéna will besides replace Roland Dumas at the presidency of the Constitutional Council as the age dean ... Being forced to resign from all his elective office, his successor at City Hall will be another future Minister Xavier Darcos.
NowadaysXavier Darcos, appointed Minister of Education in 2007 by François Fillon, returned to Périgueux only for weekend. An absence that the inhabitants of the city will make him pay for the 2008 municipal elections. He was defeated by the Socialist Michel Moyrand, vice president of the Regional Council for a few votes. Then beat in the 2010regional elections, he lost his position as Minister of Labour for which he was appointed in 2009 and he retired from Périgueux.Today the General Council, chaired by Bernard Cazeau, a former physician, is still left having had only two years in office right from 1992 to 1994. The two senators are socialists and among the four members, there are three socialists a woman and ah ecologist. The towns of Périgueux, Bergerac and Riberac are also in the hands of the socialists. Nontron and Sarlat in the hands of the UMP.
Périgord gastronomy does not need much advertizing for it to be widely known. Périgord necessarily rhyme with good food and simple happiness. If the Périgord cuisine were invented partly by peasants, it was also worked out in the castles where people used to feast with game from hunting, fish provided by the rivers and wines that the Romans had brought with them. It is therefore a land of memory of gourmet culture that was illustrated for a time by the image of a mother Denis that wasn’t doing the washing but was rather cooking in a pot hanging on the inglenook. The picture is not quite true nowadays, but the cuisine is very close to the soil and restaurants cling to the typical Perigord menus always in high demand by tourists. Another phenomenon appeared for many years and continues to develop: the farm-inns. The farmers discovered this way of making both ends meet by creating the guest tables where 70% of the products served must come from the farm. The prices are often lower than those of restaurateurs and sometimes served in gargantuan quantities ...
Local SpecialitiesLocal specialties are from recipes rooted in the collec-tive memory that can be transmitted from mother to daughter. They are inherited from the time when the pig was the animal that provided meals for the year almost to the whole family. Meat was kept in toupines covered with fat, hams were dried, etc. The confit pork called enchaud are served in all of the restaurants. Another specialty: the fat, i.e. all that can be made with geese and ducks fat: foie gras, duck confit, gizzard confit. Among the desserts we must mention the cake with nuts and the millassou, a soft cake with pumpkin.
Speciality 1The pâté of Périgueux is special because it meets precise ingredients and standards. It even gave its name to a confraternity, the brotherhood of Périgueux Pâté perpetuating the competition for the best Périgueux pâté. A guaranteed charter respecting the recipe, always at least one third of foie gras and truffles.
Speciality 2The tourin – or tourain – whitened to garlic is a speciality of Périgord. It is the soup which is served to the newlyweds during their wedding night. The tradition is that only the witnesses are aware of the place where they sleep. Guests still standing, prepare the tourin in a large pot, then search for newlyweds, in order to comfort them after a long tiring day and night. Once they have found the couple, they serve them the soup in a chamber pot...
Local foodPerigord Earth is an extraordinary garden where chestnuts, strawberries, nuts or grapes alongside black diamond, this mysterious mushroom whose scientific name is melanosporum. Here the recipes are passed down from generation to generation. They never really reveal the secrets of the tourin whitened with garlic, the eggs with truffles, or the art to cook and taste foie gras in all its forms, and not even the know-how of picking ceps, chanterelles or morels. This skilled and popular alchemy, these grandmothers preparations, far from being at the origin of king’s food, have now become the pride of good restaurants. With this gastronomic tradition, the pleasure of the divine bottle is added. It was the Romans who planted the first vines but in the Middle Ages the wine developed in the valley of the Dordogne. The bergerac vineyards stretches out in terraces above the river. Spread over 93 towns and more than 12 000 hectares, it offers the extreme diversity of its thirteen AOC. Finally goose and duck fat are its treasures.
Meat, Poultry & Game�w Lamb of Périgord. The Perigord Lamb obtained an
PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) in 2011. In 2004, it had already been certified Label Rouge. Lambs are reared by the mother for two months and then, once weaned, they are fed with fodder and grain. They are then sold to the age of four months, unlike the lamb from the Pyrenees which also has an IGP but is sold within two months. The animal was born and raised in the same breeder in a well defined geographical area: the Dordogne and some
PÉRIGORD GASTRONOMY
Duck rillettes�w Ingredients: 1.5 kg of duck meat and skin, 750g of rather fine pork meat sausage, 1 coffee spoon of
4 spices, 5 cucharadas de grasa, salt and pepper.�w Recipe. Cut the flesh and the skin of duck in cube. Mix with the pork meat. Salt, pepper and add spices.
Melt the duck fat in an enameled bowl, add the mixture. Cook over low heat, stirring regularly for 1h30. Place in jars. Close tightly. Sterilise for 1h30. Wait 6 months before sampling. You can also get meat scraps, when you make duck confitto cook duck rillettes.
PÉRIGORD GAsTRONOMy 21
KNOW
ING M
ORE ABOUT PÉRIGORD
neighbouring cantons of Corrèze, Lot and Lot-et-Garonne. It is a guarantee of quality and traceability for consumers, a way to attract farmers as production is still low.�w Foie gras. Whether it is goose or duck, foie gras
require a long work before arriving in our plates. The goslings and cans are reared in the open air to adulthood, which starts at least at the twelfth week. Only the males are chosen. The period of fattening will last 3 weeks for geese and two weeks for ducks. Maize is used for ingestion, which takes place once or twice per day. To each his own foie gras. The debate is open between lovers of foie gras goose and those who swear only by the duck! They say that goose foie gras is soft and refined. Perhaps the duck foie gras attracts many gourmets because of her exquisite taste. At sale, foie gras can be whole, raw, fresh, half-cooked, canned, vacuum ... It can be eaten in many ways, as an appetizer or main course. Do not hesitate to refrigerate a few hours and leave 20 minutes before serving. You can simply treat yourself with a piece of foie gras placed on a slice of bread. Not forgetting, of course, the essential bottle of Sauternes. Foie gras from Perigord is protected by a Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) « Duck foie gras du Périgord ‘which guarantees the quality and provenance.A good liver is recognized by the naked eye. Fed corn, it must be quite yellow but a clearer liver can also be of good quality, it depends on the food. Then it must be neither too hard nor too soft. For vacuum foie gras, it is necessary to watch the date of the void conditioning because foie gras can not be guarded for over 10 days. To properly prepare it, clean around the biliary system and the sinews. In the large lobe, remove the vein with
a knife. Do it carefully, not to damage the liver. In the small lobe is a bit more complicated because there are a lot of ramifications. Finally, seasons and place it in the pot before cooking in a water bath.The Perigord Foie Gras Association and the General Council have set up a Route foie gras (www.foiegras-perigord.com) which hold more than 60 producers (farm, craftsmen, canners) but also of the owners and innkeepers farm. All engaged in the production and the sale of duck and goose foie gras, certified by IGP label.
Pork ProductsCharcuterie Périgord is essentially the same as everywhere in France but butchers each have their own skills and they claim it. L’enchaud is a roast confit pork in fat. It is enjoyed cold in slices, that is to say with chips to duck fat or potatoes sarladaises and green salad. The flat sausage often accompanies oysters by Christmas and black pudding is cooked in a stock called jimbourat, consisting of vegetables, and which is very tasty.
Fish, Seafood & ShellfishThe Dordogne river has the privilege to house 40 fish species, including 8 migratory species namely sturgeon, the Atlantic salmon, eel, the Allis shad, the alose feints, the fluviatile lamprey, the marine lamprey, sea trout. The rivers and lakes are also populated with zander, carp, pike and small fish for frying (bleak, gardon, pin). In the rivers you will not or rarely find, the lobster whose fishing is strictly regulated. Finally, the department has seen the production of caviar from Aquitaine developing for a few years.
Terrine of PérigueuxIngredients 1 jar of 250 cc • 60 g of sausage • 120 g of foie gras • 2 beautiful truffle slices • Salt, pepper and armagnac.Recipe �w Devein the foie gras and put salt and pepper.�w Cover the bottom of your jar with half of the sausage meat.�w Place a slice of truffle on top, then add the foie gras by carefully compressing it to remove the air.�w Add a few drops of Armagnac.�w Add above the other slice of truffle and cover with the remaining sausage meat.�w Sterilize in a boiling water for 1h15.�w Forget your jars in a corner of the basement for some time. They will be all the better.
Turin blanched with garlic�w Ingredients: 1 tablespoon of duck fat, 2 tablespoons of flour, 1 small head of garlic, 1 liter of water, 1 egg,
Vermicelli or 10 slices of stale bread.�w Recipe. Peel the garlic clove, finely slice them. Fry them in duck fat gently, without browning them. Add
a little flour, mix carrefully but don’t let it stick, then add water. Let it boil and simmer for 20 minutes. Then separate the white from the yolk. Poach the white into the soup and add the vermicelli. Separately, mix the yolk with a drop of vinegar and then add a tablespoon of hot broth. Off the heat, stir in the yellow soup. Put pepper and salt and give it back a little stocks. You can remove the vermicelli and put stale bread in the soup.
PÉRIGORD GAsTRONOMy 22
Cheese & Dairy Products�w Cabécou Périgord. Cabécou originates from the
Occitan language alteration of « cabre » which means « goat » to which is added the diminutive suffix « cou », it literally means « little goat ». This name defines originally a small popular cheese produced and consumed by the household. If there are a dozen variations of Cabécous, whose name is still attached to the land of origin, the word always refers to small round pucks made with whole milk goat. Since 1992 Cabécou Perigord ® is protected by a collective trademark and logo (www.cabecou-perigord.com). Production at the farm or dairy must meet set of specifications for breeding and production.
Fruits & Vegetables�w Porcini mushrooms: The porcini mushrooms are
not only dishes of choice. Very healthy, they contribute to the balance and our good health. Only persons whose digestive system is sensitive will more or less support wild mushrooms, higher in fiber. Apart from this, officials of the French Federation of Cardiology believe that the mushrooms can be used without restrictions in most diets: obesity, diabetes, high cholesterol, hypertension and... they protect us against cardiovascular disease but, also against certain digestive cancers. But mushrooms are one of the major nutritious sources, before the oyster which yet is one its main qualities. Just 50 grams porcini mushrooms are enough to meet the needs of the body for 24 hours! So do yourself a favour and, for once, without moderation!Where to buy ceps ?In the markets as soon as they appear in general in September, October. The most famous is that of Villefranche-du-Périgord where many restaurateurs of the department come to serve the early morning.�w Chestnuts. Chestnuts were for several centuries the
base of the food self-sufficiency of rural communities in périgord. Long considered as food of the poor, chestnuts long persisted as a residualfood, before finding a new impetus from the eighties. The renewed interest it receives is based inter alia on its food and diet quality. The rate
of carbohydrate of dry chestnut is 73 % (40% for fresh fruit), a value higher than that of cereals (wheat, maize, barley, rye). Lipid content (5%) are also higher, the protein (7.4%) are rather low. Chestnut contains free fatty acids, mainly linoleic acid, palmitic, oleic and essential for the prevention of liver, blood and respiratory diseases. Regarding vitamin contribution, it is mainly constituted of vitamins B1 and B2 which are involved in energy metabolism and vitamin C which antiscorbutic properties are known. Although a significant amount, but difficult to assess accurately and consistently disappears on heating, vitamins are still found in the chestnut flour. Finally, the dried – fruit contains many biogenic salts : in large number of potassium and phosphorus, in less quantity of sulphur, magnesium, calcium and sodium. Chestnut is good for toning.�w Strawberries. Proud of its red label, and recently its
« Protected Geographical Indication » Perigord strawberry is grown exclusively in the Dordogne, particularly in the region of Vergt and represents a quarter of the French production. On the shelves from late April to October, it meets special conditions, including a guaranteed rate of sugar and strictly selected taste qualities ... Strawberry is an old fruit, known and appreciated for its medicinal properties: anti-rheumatic, astringent, biliary, detoxifying, laxative, diet and relaxing ... some even give it beauty properties. Several varieties are grown in Périgord and allowed in the IGP. The gariguette the Darselect open the Spring Ball. Then comes the turn of everbearing strawberries. They are harvested in summer and early fall: the Mara des Bois, the Charlotte, Cirafine and Seascape.�w Walnuts. The culture of the walnut tree is a
long tradition of périgord. In the eleventh century, some fees were already paid in bushels of nuts. It is from the 19th century that following the disease of the silkworm and the appearance of the phylloxera, the walnut tree will be grown in intensive way, particularly in Périgord. In this region, the walnut gauges are small and have a spotted shell; they produce excellent oil. Rich in lipids (+ 60 %) , remarkable for the quality and richness of proteins, minerals and vitamins elements, the walnut can be consumed fresh and dry. But beware, after the beginning of harvesting, at the end of September,
On the road of foie grasThe road of foie gras gathers breeders, producers and restaurateurs of Périgord who are engaged in a PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) approach. This approach ensures the consumers that the duck foie gras come from the terroir and Perigord businesses.Information: www.route-foiegras-perigord.com.In addition, the Association Foie Gras of Périgord publishes a brochure of recipes made by eight chefs of the Dordogne, spread over the road by members: crust pan-fried foie gras and mango sorbet and coconut, compote (Vincent Lucas, Etincelles in Sainte-Sabine). Grilled foie gras tart with passion fruit, Tartar and mango sorbet litchi (Eric Samson, L’Imaginaire at Small Terrace). Millefeuille with foie gras, veal sweetbreads, langoustines, emulsion with citrus (Marie Rougier, La Tour des Vents in Monbazillac). Bouquet of ducks, heart of palm, fresh herbs and sorbet of beetroot (Alain Gardillou, Le Moulin du Roc in Champagnac de Bélair). Escalope of foie gras with apples (Vincent Valverde, La Petite Borie in Sarlat). Red mullet fillets and foie gras fried with almonds (Thierry Pralong, La Ferme Saint-Louis in Périgueux). Set of sushi around Périgord duck (Christian Borini, Initial’s Chef in Périgueux). Terrine of Périgueux and its truffle jelly (Francis Delpey, Espace du 6e sens in Périgueux).
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Collaborez à la prochaine édition
Périgord
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Collaborez à la prochaine édition
Périgord
