Kathy Kawalec’s Connected Herding · 2021. 2. 26. · Connected HerdingTM Lesson 1: Sheep Herding 101 3 2009 Nursery Finals Qualified and Competed with ‘Sue’ and ‘Luc”,

Kathy Kawalec’s

Connected HerdingTM Part One

Sheep Herding 101 Basic Training for Dog and Handler

Lessons 1 through 6

By Kathy Kawalec

Copyright © 2011 by Kathy Kawalec. All rights reserved. Intellectual property rights protected. No part of this publication may be assimilated, broadcast, distributed or reproduced mechanically or electronically, or by any means or in any form whatsoever without express written permission from the author. Exception is made for brief quotations embodied in literary reviews. This publication is

provided for the personal use of the purchaser only. This material may not be displayed, demonstrated, disseminated or performed. Commercial or educational use in any form

whatsoever is expressly prohibited. Published by Kathy Kawalec, Dancing Hearts Holistic Learning Center.

Manhattan, Illinois USA

http://www.DancingHearts.org

Dedication

My life is filled with an abundance of teachers and supporters...and my work has blossomed only because of the work of all those, past and present, who have dedicated their lives to making our world a better place for people, animals and nature: Teachers. Trainers. Clinicians. Authors. Researchers. Clients. Students. Dogs. Animals of all species. The Natural Forces of the World. For you, I am so grateful.

My most steadfast supporters are my husband and my dogs, their love, dedication, and persistence is simply humbling.

I'd like to dedicate this course to you.

Joe K

Max

Blue

Haley

Dallas

Russell

Reno

Phoenix

Maya

Luc

Sue

Sam

i

Contents

LESSON 1: STOCK HANDLING BASICS

Chapter 1 Introduction 1

Walkin' the Talk 2

Chapter 2 Overview of Entire Course 6

Chapter 3 Lesson 1: Stock Handling Basics 7

Chapter 4 Skills and Tools You’ll Need to Get Started 8

Chapter 5 Nurturing a Partnership with Your Dog 10

Chapter 6 Your Finished Dog 12

Chapter 7 The Why and How of Stock Movement 13

“Pressure” 14

The “Flight Zone” 15

Finding the “Flight Zone” 17

Holding “Pressure” 18

Holding “Pressure” on the Fetch 19

Holding “Pressure” on the Drive Away 20

Chapter 8 Summary: Lesson 1 21

Chapter 9 Quiz: Lesson 1 22

Chapter 10 Homework: Lesson 1 23

Chapter 11 Quiz Answers: Lesson 1 24

LESSON 2: BASIC HERDING SKILLS AND VERBAL CUES

Chapter 12 Homework Review–Lesson 1 25

Chapter 13 Lesson 2: Basic Herding Skills and Verbal Cues 26

Chapter 14 The Short List of Herding Skills 27

“Stop” aka “Lie Down” 27

“Stay” 28

“Steady” 29

“Lift” 30

“Flanks” 31

“Come Bye” 33

“That’ll Do!” 33


Connected HerdingTM

Contents

ii




LESSON 3: PREPARATION – LEARN HERDING SKILLS OFF STOCK


Chapter 20 Lesson 3: Preparation – Learn Herding Skill Off Stock 39

Chapter 21 Teaching the “Flanks” without Stock 40

Chapter 22 Case Studies with Still Pictures 42

Case Study 1: “Come Bye” with Mika 42

Case Study 2: “Come Bye” with Mika and Mary 44

Case Study 3: “Come Bye” with Chelsea and Ida 46

Case Study 4: “Come Bye” with Chelsea and Ida, Take 2 47

Case Study 5: “Away to Me” with Mika and Mary 49

Case Study 6: “Away to Me” with Chelsea and Ida 50





LESSON 4: INTRODUCING YOUR DOG TO SHEEP


Chapter 28 Lesson 4: Introducing Your Dog to Sheep 57

Chapter 29 Teaching “Get Back” 58

Chapter 30 Getting Connected to Your Dog 61

Making a Simple Harness from Your Dog Leash or Rope 61

Using the Line as a Communication Tool 62

Case Study 1: Maya’s First Time on Sheep. 64

Chapter 31 The First Introduction to Sheep 67

Handler Focus 67

First Time on Sheep, The Steps 68


Case Study 1: The “Lift” 71

Connected HerdingTM

Contents

iii

Case Study 2: Learning to be Flexible 73

Case Study 3: Learning to be Flexible, Take 2 75





LESSON 5: BUILD ON BASIC SKILLS AND LEARN FLANKING


Chapter 38 Lesson 5: Build on Basic Skills and Learn Flanking 84

Chapter 39 Communicating Effectively 85

Chapter 40 Elements of the Flanks 87

Reviewing the Elements of Flanks 87

Teaching the Flanks 88


Case Study 1: Flanking 90

Teaching the “Come Bye” 90

Teaching the “Away to Me” 92

Maya’s Introduction to Sheep 94





LESSON 6: MOVING SHEEP AROUND THE PEN


Chapter 47 Lesson 6: Moving Sheep Around the Pen 103

Chapter 48 The Lift – Take 1 104

Dog Meets Sheep – A Crucial Encounter 104

Troubleshooting the Lift 104

1. What if My Dog Lunges or Charges at the Sheep? 104

2. What if My Dog Barks at the Sheep? 105

3. What if My Dog Tries to Bite the Sheep? 106

Connected HerdingTM

Contents

iv


Case Study 1: Ida and her Collie Chelsea 107

Case Study 2: LeeAnn and her English Shepherd Sadie 107

Case Study 3: Sketcher, an Australian Shepherd and handler Bill 108

Case Study 4: Border Collie Oz and handler Kelly Taking it to the Next Level 109

Looking Ahead 109

Chapter 50 The Lift – Take 2 110

Trouble Shooting the Lift 110

4. What if My Dog Turns Away from the Sheep? 110

5. What if My Dog Acts Distracted or Disinterested? 110

Chapter 51 Putting it Together 112

Moving the Sheep Around the Pen 112

The Steps to a Successful Session 113





Lesson 1 Stock Handling Basics

1

Chapter 1 Introduction

There's only one thing more exhilarating than watching a truly connected herding team as they work together as one, moving sheep around a course quietly, smoothly and effortlessly and that one thing is BEING that team! It's magical and it takes your breath away!

That magic happens because of a heart-to-heart partnership, the kind of partnership that is built on trust between a person and their dog. It’s a deep trust that comes from learning how to to be a good partner, from working TOGETHER with your dog as you learn, as true partners do.

Kathy Kawalec’s Connected Herding is all about building that trust between you and your dog as you move thru the stages of training from beginner to master. This partnership makes herding a fun adventure and it carries over to everything you and your dog do together. Whether it's training or competing in sports like herding, agility or rally, or simply in living every day life, a great partnership is key for having the success you dream of!

Kathy and her border

collie Maya

competing at the

2011 National

Sheepdog Finals in

Carbondale, Colorado

as one of the top 150

teams in North

America.

Connected HerdingTM

Lesson 1: Sheep Herding 101

2

Kathy and her border

collie Dallas receive

awards, including the

high point silver

buckle, at the

National Specialty in

Missouri

Walkin' the Talk

For over 15 years I've earned placements, wins and advanced titles in all venues of sanctioned herding trials including AKC, ASCA, AHBA, USBCHA. The last year I competed in AKC was a typical outing at the BCSA (Border Collie Society of America) National Specialty: Alongside my 2 dogs, Dallas and Reno, we brought home 10 top 3 placements on A and B courses, including Firsts, High in Trial and a Silver Buckle for High Scoring BC in advanced B course. All that competing in AKC only once per year at the Specialty.

My students have similar success stories, from started to advanced and on all types of courses in all the herding venues.

In years since, I've competed exclusively in USBCHA (United States Border Collie Handlers Association) sanctioned Open and Nursery trials with many placements, wins, and high combined awards, including most recently: 2011 Wisconsin Working Stockdog Association “Open Handler of the Year”, 2010 Land of Lincoln Border Collie Association “Open Series Winner”, 2010 Top 20 Finalist at the famous Bluegrass Classic, Qualifier for the National Sheepdog Open Finals many times. including the Semi-Finals Qualifier with Maya at the 2010 National Sheepdog Finals

Championship with a year-end ranking of the 29th border collie in North America amongst many thousands.

Connected HerdingTM


3

2009 Nursery Finals Qualified and Competed with ‘Sue’ and ‘Luc”, my first generation of 2-yr olds that I bred, raised, trained and qualified myself.

These successes are earned with very limited trialing. (no campaigning) My typical year is only six to eight trials per year.

I'm not telling you this stuff to brag or anything. If you're a friend or client or a colleague you know that is not my way. Really, it's not easy for me to even write these accomplishments on this page. I'm telling you this because I want you to know that you have a choice in how you train your herding dog. You do not have to sacrifice winning and success in exchange for a trusting partnership. In fact, I believe with all my heart that true, authentic success is a direct result of a trusting partnership with your dog.

Trialing is fun, educational and helps me to stay focused on both learning and getting out there as an ambassador for kind and respectful training and handling of our wonderful dogs.

Although Border Collies now fill my life as herding partners and companions right now, my first love is my Sheltie Haley, who led me to my first Herding Instinct test. Blue, my Cattle Dog, was a great help with the horses, holding them at gates or in their stalls until I haltered them, and helping load them in the trailer.

Dallas was my first border collie and taught me so much about herding and sheep that I will be forever in her debt. From our humble start of learning how to herd with a soccer ball, Dallas and I went on to successfully compete in USBCHA Open, earning points and placements including twice qualifying for and competing in the Midwest Regional Championships.

Always learning and seeking a better way to train, I have brought my lifetime of experience working with horses and dogs into the development of a herding formula that is based on a trusting partnership between person and dog.

Kathy and her horse

Lacee at a 100 mile

Trail Ride in Galena, Il

in 1985.

Connected HerdingTM


4

Getting ready to ride

into the arena at a

Quarter Horse show in

Michigan, 1985.

I guess I’ve always been a ‘first wave’ trainer: starting with natural horsemanship 35 years ago when the term was unknown; then to positive dog training 25 years ago when dogs were commonly hit, hung and abused as a standard ‘training’ technique. I carried that information forward, being in the first wave of building fun and drive in our dogs as we learned about agility here in the U.S.

Going for a walk in the

snow in 1986. Kathy

with her horse Lacee

and dog Max.

Incorporating a holistic model into training 15 years ago opened up a whole new world and that led me to develop Connected Herding. Starting about 10 years ago, it has evolved into a system that allows beginners to effectively train their own dogs as they themselves learn, with a positive and progressive plan that leads to mastery over time.

Connected HerdingTM


5

Dallas and Reno

collecting their herding

prizes wth Kathy in

2002.

Connected Herding: Creates a successful partnership based on trust and clear communication. Plays to your best strengths and builds a solid foundation of skills. Teaches you and your dog HOW to be good partners. Promotes calm, relaxed practice sessions and competition runs. Leads you to experience success at each level, from beginner to advanced. Enhances your success with everything you and your dog do together. It’s F-U-N! Learning from a place of curiosity and adventure helps the hard feel

easy. Guides you to be the best team you can be, and get better and better!

Kathy and her dog

Sue, at an Open

Sheepdog Trial in

2011.

6

Chapter 2 Overview of Entire Course

This course will help you to establish a working partnership with your herding dog, set the stage for calm, mindful stock handling and create a smooth and easy introduction to stock.

Your dog’s natural instincts for herding will be developed, while you teach your dog to look to you for guidance. During this course, you will be handling your dog close at hand, using your leash or rope as a tool for communication between you and your dog. Clear body language and a clicker or your voice to affirm your dog’s successful attempts of the lesson will make learning easy and fun for your dog.

Lesson 1 Stock Handling Basics.

Lesson 2 Basic Herding Skills and Verbal Cues.

Lesson 3 Preparation: Learn Herding Skills Off Stock.

Lesson 4 Introducing Your Dog to Sheep.

Lesson 5 Build on Basic Skills and Learn Flanking.

Lesson 6 Moving Sheep Around the Pen.

7

Chapter 3 Lesson 1: Stock Handling Basics

In this lesson, we’ll delve into the key elements that dog and handler need to consider as shepherds, including: Review of a finished dog and important elements needed to train your dog…it’s

helpful to know where you’re going, right? Learn how and why sheep respond to the dog, handler, their environment. We’ll talk about the personal space of the flock, also known as the flight zone, and

the factors that determine the size of that zone around the flock.

Young collie working

sheep for the first time.

8

Chapter 4 Skills and Tools You’ll Need to Get Started

A few lessons from now, you will be ready to start teaching your dog herding skills on sheep, so be sure to have everything ready before then. Keeping you, your dog and your sheep safe and calm is crucial in these first lessons. We are setting the stage for your future stock dog and we want her to learn how to think, be calm and to learn to take directions from you easily. If your dog has an expectation of mindful, calm stock work right from the beginning, your job will be much easier for months and years to come.

Remember that it’s important to teach your dog to be responsible, and to have self control before you introduce her to stock. If your dog is easily excited by moving animals and it’s difficult to get his attention once he is in that state of mind, you’re probably not ready for working with sheep yet. Do a bit more homework, be clear and teach your dog that chasing things and disregarding your requests are not part of a working dog’s life.

A small flock of hair

sheep.

You’ll need to use a good long line and sturdy, well-fitted collar or harness, so your dog is comfortable, and your hands are safe, just in case your dog gets over-excited and lunges out at the sheep.

Starting your dog with the right stock is very important, so be sure you have at least 5 “school sheep”, sometimes referred to as “dog-broke” sheep to start your dog. A possible alternative is to use a small group of healthy and calm lambs or yearlings.

Using appropriate working pens to start your young dog will make the teaching much easier. A 70-100ft round pen is ideal but, a small paddock will work too. If your pen is too large, the sheep will be able to run away from your dog, causing too much excitement or discouragement for your dog, and making it very difficult for you. On the other hand, a pen too small will cause your sheep to panic and your dog will not have enough room to work properly.

Connected HerdingTM


9

Key Points: Teach your dog to be responsible, and to have self control before you introduce her

to stock in order to set the stage for calm and mindful stock work. Use a good long line and collar or harness, so your dog is comfortable, and your

hands are safe. Starting your dog with the right stock is very important, so be sure you have at

least 5 “school sheep”, sometimes referred to as “dog-broke” sheep to start your dog. A possible alternative is to use a small group of healthy lambs or yearlings.

Using appropriate working pens to start your young dog will make the teaching much easier. A 70-100ft round pen is ideal but, a small paddock will work too.

10

Chapter 5 Nurturing a Partnership with Your Dog

As teachers, we are compelled to find innovative ways to effectively communicate with our dogs, making it easy for them to understand the concepts and skills that are so important for them to learn. I DO NOT believe that we must use force, intimidation or dominance to teach our dogs, in fact, I believe those methods significantly slow or block the learning and damage our relationship with our dogs.

Border collies patiently

waiting for their turn.

The first step in teaching is to understand what you want to teach, and to be able to ‘thin slice’ the lessons into pieces that will come together into a learned skill. This understanding of the lesson at hand by you, the teacher, is projected to your dog in the form of clarity and intention. Dogs are masters of reading intention, so the more clarity you have about the lesson, the more likely your dog is to easily learn the skill. If it seems that your dog is not understanding what you are trying to teach her, chunk it down smaller and review your intention and communication.

If you always intend for your dog to successfully learn the lesson, you will automatically look for ways to ensure that happens. (This is the opposite of the old training philosophy that looks for the dog to make a mistake, so that it can be corrected.) You will learn to make fluid and intuitive adjustments for each lesson to accommodate your dog’s progress.

Faithfully adopt a positive attitude as you teach. That will lead you to search out the successful attempts your dog is making as he learns a new skill, or masters a more difficult level of a skill. You will be able to clearly see the “baby steps” that will eventually lead to mastery, reinforcing those steps all along the way. Just like we first teach our children the alphabet before expecting them to read, then ask them to read simple and very short sentences before asking them to read a short story -- teaching our dogs life skills or herding skills is progressive. And just like each child has their own style of learning and their own aptitude for excelling at one lesson over another, so do our dogs.

So, we teachers look for balance among the various lessons. We know that we can often begin teaching a new skill before the previous is mastered, and we know that if there is a hole in the foundation, we must go back and fill it in with knowledge, so that

Connected HerdingTM


11

our students can continue to move forward in their education with confidence and continued success. It is our responsibility as teachers to learn the native language of our dogs so that we can effectively communicate with them. Learn to pay attention to your dog’s continuous flow of feedback as you work together, doing so will make your job so much easier!

Just as importantly, meeting the needs of your dog in all areas: physical health, nutrition and fitness, comfort and safety, social requirements, mental and emotional balance will ensure that your dog will thrive and be able to be your companion and assistant for many years to come.

Key Points: Being a good partner leads to a good partnership. Meeting all the needs of your dog creates an environment in which your dog will

thrive. Being an effective teacher makes learning fun and easy. Communicating with understanding and clarity enhances learning.

12

Chapter 6 Your Finished Dog

A good dog is more helpful than you can imagine. A good dog can: gather up your flock for feeding or shearing; drive your flock out to graze; keep sheep off feeders while you load feed; help you hold off one ewe from the rest for doctoring and can load stock into a trailer or pen. It takes some patience, trial and error, learning and teaching, but the effort is so well worth it!

To quote a pleased visitor at our farm, “…that dog is like having three or more men on staff!!!” After watching Russell (pictured above) load some lambs into a trailer in about 30 seconds, our visitor was amazed and impressed, since he fully expected to be spending 30 minutes chasing lambs around, catching them one at a time and then lifting them into the trailer, as he was accustomed to doing at farms without a trained herding dog.

If you have livestock at home, having a well trained dog is invaluable. If you live in town, having a well trained dog is simply pleasurable! This is what I hope you will aim for with your dog: good stock work and solid partnership in any situation.

13

Chapter 7 The Why and How of Stock Movement

Even though we’ll focus on sheep with during this course, you can apply the principles to all livestock, adjusting for eye placement, sensitivity, and socialization variations. Sheep and dogs have a natural predator/prey relationship that has been altered over generations of selective breeding. We tend to breed sheep that are easy for shepherds and farmers to handle and raise, and dogs that are willing to use their predatory instincts to control but not harm the animals while partnering with their handler for direction. There are still breeds of sheep that behave more like feral animals, and are flighty - running at the slightest perception of risk, but willing to turn and stand to fight to save themselves or their lambs from a predator.

The environment in which sheep are raised also influence their behavior, such flocks that retain their natural prey animal behavior because they live on the open range, or in remote hills. There are breeds that naturally flock closely together, and breeds that naturally spread out, to make feeding sparse vegetation more efficient to graze. All of these things influence the behavior of a flock, therefore their handling by shepherd and dog. Livestock naturally move towards food, water, shelter, safety and the rest of the flock, and dogs learn how to control the path of travel, adjusting for many variables in each circumstance.

Border collie holding

sheep in a corner.

The instinct of the dog blossoms under mindful guidance of the handler, and leads to a dog who is capable of understanding a flock -- responding to their movement, and quickly able to control them, according to the wishes of the shepherd. The dog is able to “read” the intention of the animals under his charge, and hold or move them calmly. For example, the farmer may be ready to feed the flock, but they are crowding the feeder, so he calls his dog over to hold the animals away from the feeder while he adds the feed. The dog is vigilant and powerful, firmly keeping the animals from charging the feeder, potentially harming the farmer. When the feeders are full, the dog is called off the stock with a “that’ll do”, and the animals are allowed to eat.

Connected HerdingTM


14

Key Points: Livestock naturally moves towards food, water, shelter, safety Dogs control their path of movement

“Pressure”

We talk about dogs “holding the pressure” or “adjusting for the pressure”, and in so doing, we are naming the ability of the dog to feel where the sheep are trying to go, and apply their own “power or presence” to steer the flock, moving the animals to the handlers desired location. This is a dog’s natural instinct…they want to have the flock under their influence, controlling the direction of their travel.

Pressure can be defined as factors that influence the behavior of the flock, such as: the relative location of rest of the flock the food source or where they are typically fed fences or other natural barriers hills or valleys pens or gates the flock does or does not want to go into or through the dog and the dog’s attitude the handler the weather (hot, windy, rainy, deep snow) protecting lambs (or breeding season)

Pressure can be

defined as factors that

influence the behavior

of the flock.

In the photo above the flock is moving AWAY from the dog, and the dog is placing herself in such a place that directs the flow of the flock towards the desired location.

Connected HerdingTM


15

The “Flight Zone”

Let’s talk about The Flight Zone, or personal space bubble around the sheep. Imagine there is an invisible zone of personal space that surrounds the individual sheep or flock. The dog makes “contact” with this bubble, putting pressure at the edge, which causes the flock to move off, away from the dog. The dog assesses both the individuals and the group as it approaches, locating the edge of the bubble - then mindfully applies pressure to move the sheep along, without bursting the bubble.

The size of the “bubble” or “Flight Zone”, is determined by many factors, including (but not limited to): the temperament and socialization of the sheep the approach of the dog (temperament, style, training) the environment, such as a strange or familiar place the weather, such as wind, cold, heat the time of day, such as early morning vs mid afternoon

The picture above illustrates: the “bubble” of personal space around individual animals or around the entire

flock. The flightier the sheep, and/or the more aggressive the dog, the larger the bubble

becomes.

Connected HerdingTM


16

We can use the analogy of a human’s personal space to help you understand this concept. Imagine you are in a familiar place, and a friendly looking stranger approaches you, chances are that you (a well-socialized person) would easily allow this stranger come close enough to shake your hand. That makes your personal space zone about the distance of two arm lengths.

Now imagine the same friendly looking stranger is approaching you, but you are in an unfamiliar place, already feeling uncomfortable about your surroundings. Your personal space zone probably got at least twice as large, and you wish to keep your distance until you assess how the stranger continues his approach.

Quiet sheep, Quite dog.

= Smaller bubble.

Flighty sheep, Quite dog.

= Larger bubble.

Connected HerdingTM


17

Now, visualize that you are in a familiar place, and this normal enough looking stranger is approaching you with a fast and aggressive attitude. Chances are you would quickly move away from them, attempting to maintain quite a distance between the two of you. Your personal space zone is now measured in the yards or tens of yards, yes? Lastly, picture yourself in a strange and sort of scary neighborhood, and a mean and aggressive stranger is moving toward you in a threatening manner. In this scenario, you will either run for your life, or turn and address your perceived attacker, perhaps fighting back.

Now, substitute the sheep for yourself, and the stranger is your dog, get the idea? This flight zone is not static, but shifts according to the present circumstances, moment by moment.

Finding the “Flight Zone”

In the picture below you see a moment in time captured as the dog applied pressure to the edge of the bubble to start the sheep moving. Here you see Russell stepping into the sheep, at the edge of their flight zone and you see the sheep just as they turn and begin to move away. We are starting the drive away in this photo.

We want the dog to keep steady pressure on the bubble, not allowing the sheep to stop, nor making them run…or allowing them to go anywhere except the intended path. It can be a very touchy business, but a good dog makes this look easy.

Connected HerdingTM


18

Holding “Pressure”

In the scenario illustrated below, the sheep would like to run to the feeder at the top of the picture (their left), where there is hay…but the farmer wants them in the barn right now. So, the dog moves out to the side of the flock, putting more pressure on feeder side. That causes the sheep to move away from the dogs pressure, and keep moving directly to the barn.

If a dog’s instinct is allowed to develop, this “feel” of the pressure and the flight zone are quite natural, the handler, working with the sheep, shapes this instinct, teaching the dog to both feel the pressure and listen to the handlers instructions on where to guide the sheep.

Key Points: Pressure can be defined as factors that influence the behavior of the flock such as

other sheep, food, shelter, terrain, the dog. The size of the “bubble”, or Flight Zone, is determined by many factors including

the nature of the sheep and the dog and the environment. If a dog’s instinct is allowed to develop, this “feel” of the pressure and the flight

zone is quite natural for most dogs.

Connected HerdingTM


19

Holding “Pressure” on the Fetch

Here’s a real-life example. In this photo you see Russell on a fetch, bringing the sheep straight to me thru the fetch panels…notice how far out to the side he has to be to hold the pressure (look for the red arrow pointing to Russell)…there is a flock in a holding pen off to my left, and the sheep that Russell is bringing REALLY want to join them, so he is working hard to keep them in the lane.

We are working as a team, and I am supporting Russell’s natural instinct to hold the pressure just right so the sheep come straight down the field. If I wasn’t actively supporting Russell here, it is possible that he might over-compensate for the field pressure and hold the sheep a bit off line to my right, to be “extra sure” they didn’t make a move towards their buddies in the pen. If that were to happen, we would loose many points, since we are being judged on how well we keep the sheep in the center lane, moving calmly towards me.

Connected HerdingTM


20

Holding “Pressure” on the Drive Away

The picture below shows the drive away a few yards after the turn…the sheep are trying to break off to the right, and you see Russell’s body just beginning to turn that way to cover them. The sheep are still trying to find a way to get around the dog, hoping to find a hole that will allow them to run towards the rest of the flock. We need a dog that will stay strong and calm in this type of situation.

21

Chapter 8 Summary: Lesson 1

So remember: Flocking animals typically prefer to be together, and will naturally move toward

food, shelter and safety. Pressure is any factor that influences the behavior of the flock. The Flight Zone is determined by many factors including the sheep, the dog, the

environment.

22

Chapter 9 Quiz: Lesson 1

Sheep often like to be alone

A. True

B. False

Factors that influence the behavior of flock animals can be called?

A. Irrational

B. Erratic

C. Pressure

Sheep and other prey animals:

A. Natually move away from food, water, shelter, and safety.

B. Always run to get where they’re going.

C. Naturall move toward food, water, shelter, and safety.

The “Flight Zone” is?

A. The personal space around sheep and other prey animals.

B. The path airplanes take.

C. The area sheep like to run ot when they are afraid.

If you want your dog to move sheep straight towards you, but the sheep want to go to the feeder on their left, on what side of the flock will your dog have to cover the pressure?

A. My dog will have to cover the pressure on the left side of the flock.

B. My dog will hav eto cover the pressure on the right side of the flock.

C. My dog will not have to cove rthe pressure on either side.

23

Chapter 10 Homework: Lesson 1

Your homework for this week is: Spend time working with your dog every day, incorporating calmness, sit, down

and stay into your daily routine. Ask your dog to wait at doors and gates until you release them to go, every time.

You pass thru doorways and gateways first most of the time. You can take your dog out near the livestock, where your dog can see them and

practice keeping your dogs attention on you whenever you ask. Be as far away from the stock as needed for your dog to be successful. You want your dog to eventually be able to approach the stock with keen interest balanced with calm mindfulness and attention to your requests. Keep working at it, use positive reinforcement and keep sessions fun and short.

Teach your dog to lie down away from you…just a few feet is OK at first, gradually extend that to 20 yards. Teach this in two ways: using a stay as you move further and further away from your dog; and asking your dog to lie down when they are already a distance from you, such as walking in the yard etc.

24

Chapter 11 Quiz Answers: Lesson 1

Here are the answers to the quiz.

Sheep often like to be alone

B. False

Factors that influence the behavior of flock animals can be called?

C. Pressure

Sheep and other prey animals:

C. Naturall move toward food, water, shelter, and safety.

The “Flight Zone” is?

A. The personal space around sheep and other prey animals.

If you want your dog to move sheep straight towards you, but the sheep want to go to the feeder on their left, on what side of the flock will your dog have to cover the pressure?

A. My dog will have to cover the pressure on the left side of the flock.

Lesson 2 Basic Herding Skills and

Verbal Cues

25

Chapter 12 Homework Review–Lesson 1

Review your homework from Lesson 1: Spend time working with your dog every day, incorporating calmness, sit, down

and stay into your daily routine. Ask your dog to wait at doors and gates until you release them to go, every time.

You pass thru doorways and gateways first most of the time. You can take your dog out near the livestock, where your dog can see them and

practice keeping your dogs attention on you whenever you ask. Be as far away from the stock as needed for your dog to be successful. You want your dog to eventually be able to approach the stock with keen interest balanced with calm mindfulness and attention to your requests. Keep working at it, use positive reinforcement and keep sessions fun and short.

Teach your dog to lie down away from you…just a few feet is OK at first, gradually extend that to 20 yards. Teach this in two ways: using a stay as you move further and further away from your dog; and asking your dog to lie down when they are already a distance from you, such as walking in the yard etc.

Contemplate the following questions, and record your answers in your training journal: How did your herding prep practice go this past week? Did you incorporate calm

sits, down, stays, waiting in doorways and gateways into your daily routine? Did you practice the lie down at a distance from you? How far were you able to

walk away from your dog while he was in a down stay? How about while your dog was moving around?

Where do feel you and your dog were successful? How will you revise your daily teaching routine to have better success this coming

week?

When you are finished recording your notes into your journal, move on to the next lesson.

26

Chapter 13 Lesson 2: Basic Herding Skills and Verbal Cues

In this lesson we’ll cover herding skills and their respective cues: Learn the basic herding cues, what they mean and how to use them. Review the list of skills your dog needs to be an effective herding partner.

27

Chapter 14 The Short List of Herding Skills

This is a list of all the basic herding skills your dog needs to build a solid foundation in order to be your herding partner. With this set of skills, you and your dog will be able to accomplish any task, from novice on up to advanced. You will build the skills progressively - each month your dog’s execution of these skills will continue to improve and your handling skills will continually improve, until one day, in a few years, you have a skilled partner and an amazing partnership!

Herding Skills: Stop Stay Lift Steady Flanks That’ll do

It’s a simple and short list, yet definitely challenging to perfect! The general consensus is that it takes about 4 years to evolve to an advanced level, under ideal conditions. That is, when the dog and handler both have exceptional aptitudes and are dedicated to the process. In the meantime, with mindful practice and skilled coaching, most teams can work together to complete simple herding tasks in a year or two. The first year is the most challenging, because it is so new but it gets easier after that!

Now, let’s define the elements of each of these skills.

“Stop” aka “Lie Down”

Even though this sounds like a static, obedient position, it is anything but!! When we ask a dog to lie down, or stop, we are really asking them to do several things. A dog may either lie down, sit or stand for the ‘Stop’. The stop may last only a fraction of a second, or several minutes or even longer. We are NOT taking the dog off the stock with this cue, we are putting the dogs ON the stock, and asking them to hold them right there.

A good ‘Stop’. Dog is

standing in position

while the handler

moves away from the

sheep.

Connected HerdingTM


28

The stop may be a bridge between a flank and a steady or it may be needed to help a pushy dog to slow it’s pace a bit while they’re learning. We also use the stop any time the dog needs to hold the sheep in place - such as holding them off the gate so we can easily open it; holding them near us in a group so we can shed/sort an individual or several away from the rest of the flock, holding them off of the feeder so we can add the feed.

You can begin to see that a Stop/Lie Down is very, very important and a skill that the dog must have in order to progress in it’s herding education. And, fortunately, you can practice the Stop every day - even if you don’t have a flock or herd at home!

Teaching your dog to lie down at a distance from you is an important element to practice away from stock, so that it is not such a challenge when you are working with stock in the future.

Key Points: Dog faces the stock, Dog pauses their movement; Dog holds the stock right where they are now; Dog is ready to quickly move in response to their handler’s cue or the stock’s

movement.

“Stay”

The elements of the Stay: Dog holds position until another cue is given, no matter what the stock are doing. A dog may either lie down, sit or stand during the stay .

Most of the time, the Stay is used when the dog is not actively working the stock…such as when you are walking through a gate, and want your dog to stay on the other side of the gate until you call him. Or, you need to walk away from your dog for a minute or two while you take care of something, and you need your dog to stay nearby but not work the stock.

Sometimes it can be helpful to use Stay when an excitable dog needs extra help to lie down and hold their position while working stock until they get the idea. (However, in that instance, most of the time, simply repeating the “lie down” cue is most appropriate.

Connected HerdingTM


29

Maya being released

from a “Stay” and

called through the

gate.

The photo shown above is 1 year old Maya, who had been in a down stay, and I am calling her thru the gate to me.

Key Points: Dog holds position until another cue is given, no matter what the stock are doing. A dog may either lie down, sit or stand during the stay

“Steady”

The “Steady” happens before and after the lift, and this is the skill that either allows the dog to bring the sheep quietly, slowly and efficiently towards you on a fetch, or move them away from you in a drive. Some handlers use the cue “Walk up” instead of Steady. Either cue is just fine.

The dog is behind the sheep, using It’s presence to keep the sheep moving straight ahead. We think of moving sheep in lanes, like a roadway. Smooth and flowing, easy and effortless is the goal for the Steady.

Maya demonstrates a

good “Steady”.

‘Steady’ is like driving your car on the highway, you keep your car in the lane, maintaining your distance behind the car in front of you, making minor steering adjustments, making adjustments in your pressure on the accelerator, or even touching the brake as needed. We want the dog to move our animals quietly, efficiently, at a walk or slow trot and hold the Steady until the handler gives different instructions.

Connected HerdingTM


30

Key Points: Dog moves towards the sheep at a steady and mindful walk; Dog keeps that pace, working at the edge of the bubble; Dog keeps the sheep in the lane originally set by the handler; Dog makes minor steering adjustment as necessary.

“Lift”

The Lift is the moment when the dog convinces the stock to move quietly away. As the dog approaches the sheep, each step the dog takes closer to the sheep is an attempt to feel the edge of the flight zone bubble of the sheep. When the edge of the bubble is reached, the dog then mindfully applies appropriate pressure that causes the sheep to turn and move away from the dog in a calm manner. This can be considered the “hand shake” between dog and sheep. It is during the lift that the dog and sheep physically meet one another and establish their relationship. The ideal relationship is that the sheep respect the dog and willingly move away from the dog without panic.

Maya is moving

mindfully towards the

sheep, as I begin to

back so she can “Lift”.

I consider the Lift a critically important skill that the dog must learn in order to be effective. If the dog rushes at the sheep, they will be frightened and run away; if the dog has no confidence in her ability, the sheep will not move away from the dog. A dog must demonstrate calm, mindful confidence as she asks the sheep to move away from her.

Key Points: Dog approaches the sheep mindfully, seeking the edge of the bubble Dog feels the edge of the bubble of the sheep Dog asks the stock to move away with subtle but firm and steady forward pressure

Connected HerdingTM


31

“Flanks”

The elements of the Flanks: Direction ( Clockwise: ‘Come Bye’; Counter clockwise: ‘Away to Me’ ); Distance; Attitude; Speed of Travel.

Direction: The direction the dog is traveling around the sheep, either clockwise or counter clockwise. You may always think of the sheep as being in the center of a circle, or wagon wheel, and the dog is traveling around the outer edge of the circle (flight zone), either Come Bye (clock wise) or Away to Me (counter clockwise).

Distance: Refers to the dog keeping it’s distance from the sheep, never moving into the flight zone always just on the outside edge of the bubble.

Attitude: Refers to the dog “releasing” or turning it’s head and shoulders away from the sheep, bending its body in the shape of the circle edge that represents the edge of the flight zone. The sheep must not feel the dog is “coming after them”, but that the dog is traveling a circular path around the sheep.

Maya is traveling

‘Away to Me’ (counter-

clockwise around the

sheep).

Speed of Travel: We use flanks to get the dog into the correct position to change the direction of the sheep. To use our car driving analogy, if you are driving your car on the highway, and wish to turn onto a new road, you would turn the steering wheel enough to point your car in the new direction you wish to travel. In herding, the dog is flanking around the sheep until the dog gets to the place that will enable the sheep to move directly away from the dog, towards the new direction. So, the dog flanks until you ask them to stop at just the right place, which is called ‘the point of balance’. We’ll talk more about balance in a later lesson.

If the dogs’ attitude is mindful and workmanlike, the speed the dog travels around the sheep in the flank is usually perfect. We’re looking for the dog to be quick, yet calm and confident as they travel around the sheep without disturbing them by the movement.

Connected HerdingTM


32

Below is an illustration of the flanks. You can see that in both cases, the dog is traveling on the outside edge of the flight zone, and releasing by keeping her body in a circular shape.

“Come Bye” “Away to Me”

Illustrated Elements of the Flanks: Direction: Come bye and away to me Distance: The dog will keep it’s distance from the sheep the same, all the way

around the bubble, until it gets to balance, or we ask for a stop or direction change.

Attitude: The dog in our illustration is definitely releasing, as indicated by the dog’s head and shoulders aligned with the shape of the circle.

Speed of Travel: We can’t determine the speed, of course, but I would expect the speed to be good, based on all the other elements.

Connected HerdingTM


33

“Come Bye”

In the picture below Maya is traveling Come Bye (clockwise around the sheep). Notice her direction, distance and bend (shape of her body).

Maya is traveling

“Come Bye”.

“That’ll Do!”

Elements of ‘That’ll Do’: Dog’s job is done, leave the stock. Dog willingly leaves the stock and comes to the handler.

That’s an easy one, unless of course you have a very keen young dog who doesn’t want to stop working, which is commonly the case! So, we have to work at teaching the dog that being called off the stock doesn’t mean they are “done” forever, just for now.

34


So remember: Stop, Stay, Lift, Steady, Flanks, and That’ll do! These are the basic skills that will lead to a finished dog able to do any herding

task!

35


My dog must always lie down when I ask for a stop.

A. True

B. False

The definition of Stop, in a herding context means?

A. My dog should lie down, and stay there no matter what.

B. My dog should freeze in his exact position

C. My dog should turn to face the stock, pause his movement, hold the stock, be ready to move quickly on cue.

The “Lift” can be described as:

A. The dog carefully picking up the sheep and carrying them safely to the barn.

B. The initial handshake between dog and sheep, establishing their relationship.

C. An air current that helps the dog move the sheep.

D. All of the above.

The dog flanking “Come Bye” is moving around the sheep in a clockwise direction?

A. True.

B. False

The verbal cue for my dog flanking around the sheep in a counter-clockwise direction is?

A. Come Bye

B. Away to Me

C. Away from Me

D. Come Here

36


Your homework for this week is: Continue asking your dog to lie down, sit, stay in more distracting environments and

to stay for longer times, and at more distance from you. Begin visualizing all of these skills in your mind, especially the Flanks. The goal is

that you are comfortable thinking about these skills, identifying them and remembering the directions of the flanking cues.

Record your notes in your training journal daily!

37



My dog must always lie down when I ask for a stop.

B. False

The definition of Stop, in a herding context means?

C. My dog should turn to face the stock, pause his movement, hold the stock, be ready to move quickly on cue.

The “Lift” can be described as:

B. The initial handshake between dog and sheep, establishing their relationship.

The dog flanking “Come Bye” is moving around the sheep in a clockwise direction?

A. True.

The verbal cue for my dog flanking around the sheep in a counter-clockwise direction is?

B. Away to Me

Lesson 3 Preparation – Learn Herding

Skills Off Stock

38


Review your homework from Lesson 2: Continue asking your dog to lie down, sit, stay in more distracting environments and

to stay for longer times, and at more distance from you. Begin visualizing all of these skills in your mind, especially the Flanks. The goal is

that you are comfortable thinking about these skills, identifying them and remembering the directions of the flanking cues.

Record your notes in your training journal daily!

Contemplate these questions and record notes in your journal: How are you and your dog doing with the practice on sit/down/stay in more

distracting environments? Will your dog sit/down just about anywhere you ask? Is your dog reliably staying until released at doorways to the outside, and at gateways? Will your dog lie down at a distance from you? What is the distance? Describe the circumstances, environment, distractions when your dog is most successful and least successful. What will your plan be for this coming week? What are your goals? Describe your goal(s) in terms of distance, distraction and duration as well as the timing and frequency of practice sessions.

Did you reliably record your notes daily? If yes, celebrate! If not, how can you make that easier for yourself? Make a new plan now!

Are you beginning to remember the herding skills and verbal cues. Can you visualize them? If not, go back and review previous lessons to become more familiar.

39

Chapter 20 Lesson 3: Preparation – Learn Herding Skill Off Stock

In this lesson we’ll cover: Review of the Basic Herding Skills Teach Come Bye, Away to Me and Stop without livestock using play and toys.

40

Chapter 21 Teaching the “Flanks” without Stock

These days, many herding dogs live in cities and suburbs, with no sheep in their back yard, so how does a beginning team practice herding skills in between lessons?

I started in the same place many years ago: no sheep or ducks, and the closest place for practice or lessons was 2 long hours away, more with traffic jams!

My young border collie Dallas and I were bitten by the herding bug and I was determined to teach my dog the foundation skills of flank, walk up, stop. So, I created a fun plan using a basketball to replace the sheep, because Dallas was crazy about playing soccer with me. Perfect! It worked out really well, and in no time I had her doing mini outruns to get out behind the ball, then approach the ball for the lift, and fetch it straight to me.

Once I began to develop Connected Herding many years later, I found that my students who took the time to practice flanks and stops as homework made much faster progress than those who did not. I believe the key factor that accelerates training progress is the language that is developed between dog and handler during the practice. The level of communication that develops during practice carries over into the herding field very well.

Beginners Ida and her

young collie Chelsea

learn flanks.

Steps to Teach Flanks without stock:

1. Be sure to use a focal point, so you can see and feel the center of the circle. This will help you to shape your flanks correctly. Remember, the sheep are in the center of the circle - and the dog works on the outer edge of the flight zone bubble. So, you will create this scenario using a center focal point (such as a toy) that represents the sheep while you and your dog work on the circle. Since inanimate objects don’t have personal space, you determine the diameter of the circle at each session.

2. Model the flanks with your body language, so your dog can mirror your movements. You turn your head, shoulders and body onto the circle and help your dog to do the same.

Connected HerdingTM


41

3. Use your off-side hand (opposite your dog) if necessary to help your dog turn their head away from the focal point. We are not teaching a hand signal, simply helping get the head turn as necessary.

4. Move quickly! Flanks are fast, your dog should at least be trotting.

5. All flanks start and stop with you and your dog squarely facing the sheep, or your toy.

6. The sequence: Face your focal point with your dog at your side–turn onto the circle and help your dog mirror your movement–click as your dog turns onto the circle– move a few steps on the circle–look in at your focal point, then turn in with your dog. Exercise finished, get your toy!

7. You will shape the sequence over time by adding duration, distance, distractions. Such as:

a. making the flanking movement longer (more steps);

b. by asking for a longer and longer pause at the end of the flank;

c. by attached the verbal cue to the move so your dog begins to know what that cue means;

d. by allowing your dog to make the first move after you give the verbal cue;

e. by taking your dog off leash; by making the bubble around the focal point larger;

f. by making the focal item more exciting to your dog. Add these elements gradually, one at a time, over the next few weeks. Do this exercise in different places of your house and yard, or away from home.

8. It’s important to end the flank with a stop, communicate that the exercise is finished, THEN allow your dog to get the focal toy. You don’t want to inadvertently teach your dog that flanks end with “getting” the sheep! In the very beginning, the stop is not important, because we want the dogs to love this exercise, but do incorporate the stop by the 2nd or 3rd session, sooner if your dog is enthusiastic, a bit later if your dog is reluctant.

42

Chapter 22 Case Studies with Still Pictures

Case Study 1: “Come Bye” with Mika

In these pictures that we captured during a live lesson, you can see the precise body language used. The tennis ball is the focal point for Mika, Mary’s dog, who is an English Shepherd. This was VERY hard for Mika. With Mary’s first attempt, Mika wanted the ball, and she wanted it now! That’s also a common response when a young dog sees sheep for the first time. It’s important to establish a flow of communication between dog and handler that allows the handler to influence the dogs actions. This is our tool for helping to shape flanks and ask for stops when working stock.

In the stills below I handled Mika and demonstrated to Mary how to work with Mika’s eagerness and showed Mika that it is possible to flank around her ball!

Picture 1

Notice how I am really helping Mika turn out away from the ball with my body language very clear, confident.

Connected HerdingTM


43

Picture 2

See how I am looking in towards the ball, to signal to Mika that I want her to turn in toward the ball. When working sheep, this would be signaling a “steady” or a “stop”.

Picture 3

Mika has easily followed my body language and turned into the focal point, her ball and eagerly moves in to get it on my cue.

Connected HerdingTM


44

Picture 4

Mika is rewarded by allowing her to have the ball.

Case Study 2: “Come Bye” with Mika and Mary

Now, here’s Mary with Mika. Again, the tennis ball is the focal point for Mika. Mary and Mika have some home work to do. It will be easy for Mary to shape Mika, using Mika’s intense drive for the ball as a motivator. If Mary has difficulty at home, I suggest using a focal point that is less interesting for her dog, then build up to the highest interest toy. Taking away some of the keenness for the toy will enable Mika to pay a bit more attention to Mary, making it easier for them to practice good flanks.

Picture 1

Mika is really focused on the ball, similar to how she might be on sheep.

Connected HerdingTM


45

Picture 2

See how Mika is not releasing on her flank here. Her head and shoulders are turned in towards the ball and she is pushing into Mary’s space, if sheep were in the center, they would be running away from her.

Picture 3

Mika has never really released on her flank, but Mary is trying to learn the body language skills, so this was a good attempt.

Connected HerdingTM


46

Case Study 3: “Come Bye” with Chelsea and Ida

Ida is using me as her focal point, since Chelsea loves people.

Picture 1

Ida and Chelsea are connected and ready to go.

Picture 2

Ida has succeeded in helping turn Chelsea out into a flank. She has used her near-side hand but that seems to work OK. Chelsea looks just a bit confused, but is following Ida’s lead.

Connected HerdingTM


47

Picture 3

Ida’s feet have stopped moving before Chelsea has stopped, which is not ideal, but it is nice that Chelsea has continued on her flank, even without Ida!

An important point to remember is to keep your feet moving until your dog stops, so you do not accidentally “correct” your dog with your leash.

Case Study 4: “Come Bye” with Chelsea and Ida, Take 2

Here they try again, and they both are much more confident! Ida is again using me as her focal point.

Picture 1

Ida and Chelsea are off to a good start on the Come Bye flank. Chelsea is already starting the flank almost before Ida gets moving!

Connected HerdingTM


48

Picture 2

Chelsea is really getting it this time, and enjoying the lesson! Notice how her head and body are nicely shaped for a flank on the circle.

Picture 3

Chelsea is confidently going out on her flank, Ida is almost keeping up with her - they are both happy!

Connected HerdingTM


49

Case Study 5: “Away to Me” with Mika and Mary

Now Mary and Mika try the other direction. Mary is using her tennis ball as her focal point, you can see it in the photos.

Picture 1

Mika and Mary are nicely connected at the start.

Picture 2

Mary’s body language is good, but not clear enough for Mika, who is still turning into towards her ball. We’d like to see her head turn onto the circle.

Connected HerdingTM


50

Picture 3

Mary is still showing good body language but you can see Mika is running past her to turn in towards her ball.

They’ll need more practice, probably with a less distracting focal point until Mika understands how to use her body in a flank better. So, I might use a toy that Mika isn’t so interested in for a session or two or, try moving further away from the ball to see if the distraction of the ball is reduced.

Case Study 6: “Away to Me” with Chelsea and Ida

Ida is using me again as her focal point, as the hub of her circle.

Picture 1

Ida is again using her near hand, and Chelsea doesn’t see it at first, then she suddenly understands what Ida is asking of her.

Connected HerdingTM


51

Picture 2

Both Ida and Chelsea are doing a beautiful job of modeling a good flank! You can see Chelsea is really beginning to understand what this flank means, notice her head, body, loose lead, enthusiasm.

Picture 3

Ida is still showing good body language but you can see Chelsea is beginning to look into the flank. Ida using her opposite hand would be helpful here.

What are your questions or thoughts about teaching your dog the flanks? This is a good time to pause and write some notes about the basics of flanking in your training journal.

52


Key Points: “Stop, Stay, Lift, Steady, Flanks, and That’ll do” are the basic skills that will lead to

a finished dog able to do any herding task! Teach your dog Come Bye and Away to Me without stock, setting a good

foundation. Use a focal point for the center of the circle, representing the sheep Use clear body language to teach your dog to flank around the focal point. Your focal point should be interesting to your dog, and you can regulate the

amount of intensity with distance from the toy and drive for a particular toy. Keep sessions short and have fun!

53


The elements of flanking are:

A. Stop, watch and listen.

B. Come, get away and lie down.

C. Direction, Distance and Attitude.

The dog flanking clockwise around the sheep is called?

A. ComeBye

B. AwaytoMe

C. ComeHere

D. ComeNow

The dog flanking counter-clockwise around the sheep is called:

A. ComeBye

B. AwaytoMe

C. AwayfromMe

D. AwayfromHere

When teaching flanks off stock, having a focal point helps shape the flank.

A. True.

B. False

When modeling flanks as I teach my dog, I should:

A. Keep my head and shoulders facing the focal point as flank on the circle.

B. Pull my dog with the leash.

C. Face the direction I am intending to flank, and align my head, shoulders and body with the shape of the circle.

D. Shape just a few steps at first.

E. Both C and D.

Flanks should always start and stop with handler and dog facing the focal point.

A. True.

B. False

54


Your homework for this week is: As you begin to teach your dog the flanks, remember to set your dog up for

success, so start easy with no distractions, on a leash, with a focal point that is going to make teaching your dog fun and easy.

If your dog is very excited, maybe just a tree or a chair or a cone or something similar, then graduate up to a ball or toy that your dog loves, still on leash, then remove the leash when you are successful. If your dog seems disinterested or bored, use a more fun and lively focal point–something your dog really likes, whether it’s food, a toy, a person or another dog!

Make it fun, keep sessions short!

Remember to: Keep asking your dog to lie down, sit, stay in more distracting environments, and to

stay for longer times, and at more distance from you. Begin to teach your dog flanks: Come Bye and Away to Me. Remember to set small goals every training session and record your notes in your

training journal.

55



The elements of flanking are:

C. Direction, Distance and Attitude.

The dog flanking clockwise around the sheep is called?

A. ComeBye

The dog flanking counter-clockwise around the sheep is called:

B. AwaytoMe

When teaching flanks off stock, having a focal point helps shape the flank.

A. True.

When modeling flanks as I teach my dog, I should:

E. Both C and D..

Flanks should always start and stop with handler and dog facing the focal point.

A. True.

Lesson 4 Introducing Your Dog to Sheep

56


Review your homework from Lesson 3: Keep asking your dog to lie down, sit, stay in more distracting environments and to

stay for longer times, and at more distance from you. Begin to teach your dog flanks: Come Bye and Away to Me. Remember to set small goals every training session and record your notes in your

training journal.

Contemplate these questions and record notes in your journal: Is your dog reliably staying until released at doorways to the outside, and at

gateways? What is the distance from you your dog will reliably lie down? How are you doing with the flanking exercises? Does your dog flank well at least a few steps with your help in both directions? Can you see your dog beginning to understand the flanking cues? Is your dog having more difficulty going in one direction over the other? Describe the circumstances, environment, distractions when your dog is most successful and least successful for each of the core lessons your are working on this week.

What will your plan be for continuing these lessons in this coming week? What are your goals? Describe your goal(s) in terms of distance, distraction and duration, as well as the timing and frequency of practice sessions.

Remember to record your training notes daily.

You can always email me for advice if you are feeling stuck or confused.

57

Chapter 28 Lesson 4: Introducing Your Dog to Sheep

In this lesson we’ll cover: How to teach your dog the “get back” behavior, The importance of gate work for teaching impulse control and establishing

partnership, How to handle your dog on a long line properly. How to have a successful first lesson with sheep or ducks.

58

Chapter 29 Teaching “Get Back”

There are at least two different ways to teach your dog to ‘get back’. I recommend you pick one, or try both ways to see what is easier for your dog, and go with it. You can also teach both of these moves with two different cues if you like. One is for herding, and one as a trick.

Style 1: Your dog will back up, straight away from you while still facing you with no sideways movement. This is more of a traditional ‘trick’ type of action. Possible trick cues are: ‘back’, ‘back up’ or ‘excuse me’.

Style 2: Your dog can turn away from you a bit and then back away, in more of an arching movement. This style is more natural for a herding dog and is most likely what your dog will offer at first. Possible herding cues are: ‘get back’, ‘back up’, or simply ‘back’.

The following teaching guides are summaries of each process.

To teach Style 1, back up straight: Have your dog standing in front of you, step slowly towards your dog, with your hand held low, near their nose, palm out and hand flat. Click or praise any movement the dog makes back with their feet, focusing on their back feet and then follow the shaping guidelines of asking for more steps before click/reward. When you can consistently get 4-6 steps with your body language/hand signal, add the verbal cue. Then you can gradually fade out your body language over time, as well as ask your dog to back up more steps.

To teach your dog Style 2 get back: Start with your dog standing in front of you, while you focus on the ground at your feet, and use your body language, hand signal and intention to communicate to your dog that you would like them to move away from you. Click or praise a step or two at first, then shape more steps. When you are getting 4-6 steps consistently, add the verbal cue. Then you can gradually fade out your body language over time, as well as ask your dog to back up more steps.

I use “get back” all the time in every day life. My dogs (as most dogs do) tend to crowd doorways and gateways when we are going out for walks or play, so I use this cue to get everyone away from the door or gate. I then call them thru one at a time, using their names to release them.

I also use that cue with my intermediate and advanced dogs. They will sometimes get too close to sheep (when we are gate sorting sheep, for example), and I need to put more distance between the dog and the sheep. In this case, having the dog ‘get back’ works very well. My dogs all turn away into a sort of soft flank as they are backing off, going in the direction they feel most helpful in holding the sheep as they are creating distance between themselves and the sheep.

Connected HerdingTM


59

The first photo below shows Maya taking the first steps of my cue to get back away from the pen gate. You see I am using a lot of body language to help her, she is very intense on the sheep in the pen behind me. The second below photo shows her actively moving back on her own, but I am still maintaining my intention to be sure she gets back as far as I want her.

Maya is very intensely focused on the sheep behind me, but is willing to take my cue to get back, with my helpful body language and intention. She is willing, because we have made this skill a habit every day at every gateway. When you consistently intend for your dog to yield to you and to demonstrate self control by waiting for release without being on command, your dog will learn to calmly offer this behavior automatically.

Maya is learning ‘get

back’ from the pen

gate at her first sheep

lesson.

The second try at ‘get

back’, I am already

fading my body

language

Teaching Tips: In either style, don’t make eye contact with your dog. Eye contact might draw her into you or put too much personal pressure on her. Instead, focus on the ground in front of your feet, and use the power of your intention to take up the space in front of your feet as you slowly move forward, requesting that your dog get back out of your space.

Connected HerdingTM


60

Most dogs learn this very easy. A great place to teach Get Back is at gates or doorways where the dogs really want to go thru, so they are very motivated to figure out what will get them released to go.

The Usefulness of “Get Back”: Makes space at doors and gates so you can open them. The distance makes it easier for your dog to stay until released. It teaches your dog to respond to your personal space by moving away from you,

a response you will use to shape herding skills. Ultimately, it is useful to increase the distance between the dog and the sheep if

they get too close.

Key Points: Apply subtle body pressure into your dog. Dog backs away from pressure. Connect the verbal cue to the dogs backing movement. Practice using verbal cue while fading out body language.

61

Chapter 30 Getting Connected to Your Dog

Making a Simple Harness from Your Dog Leash or Rope

I’d like you to make a simple harness from your long line to help you communicate with your dog better. You can also make this harness using a 6 ft leash, 1” leather is best.

The steps are:

1. Attach the clip to your dogs well-fitted buckle collar.

2. Put the line under your dog, starting on your dog’s left side, then reach across and bring the line up the right side of your dog.

3. Bring the right side of the line (the long end) up and under the buckle end of the line.

4. Pull the entire loose end of the line thru to the left side.

5. The last step is to position the line under your dog so that is rests right behind your dog’s elbows. You want to be sure the line is around your dog’s ribs, not their abdomen. The ribs are firm, protective and less sensitive. The line will likely slip back as you are working, so keep checking it and adjusting it so that is forward, right behind your dogs front legs. Pull the line thru itself until it is snug, but not tight, around your dog. You can also put your line on this way if your dog is wearing a harness, just slip the line thru one section of the harness to hold it in place.

*Never work your dog with a prong collar, a choke collar or a slip collar of any type. Be sure your collar is fitted well, not too tight so it restricts your dogs breathing, nor too loose so that it can slip off.

Step 1 Step 2

Connected HerdingTM


62

Step 3 Step 4

Step 5

Using the Line as a Communication Tool

I want you to think of using your leash or line as a communication tool…not as a means of correction or pulling your dog into position. Working with your dog in this connected way will open up a whole new world to both you and your dog. One of the side benefits of sheep herding is a sense of calmness that comes from being present and focused - a requirement to master the art of herding!

Once you have your leash or rope wrapped into a harness, you can practice communicating with your dog. Begin your practice away from sheep to get the feel and when you’re comfortable, you’re ready to take your dog into the pen. Practice being flexible with your body and arms, like a rubber band. You will give and take on the line as you and your dog move around the pen with the sheep. Keep a nice “neutral” connection going, not sloppy and full of slack, with a solid connection between you and your dog so that you can feel him thru the line and he can feel you.

Connected HerdingTM


63

A young mini aussie

learning how to move

sheep around the pen.

Hold the line firmly in your hands while being soft and flexible. You don’t want to accidentally drop the line out of your hands, and it is best when learning/teaching to hold the line in two hands. One is the main connection to your dog and the other hand holds the rope, helping to keep you balanced. Using two hands allows you to make smooth and easy adjustments.

Use the line softly and with intention. You want to “talk” to your dog with the line, not shout! So your hands will squeeze the line, like you’re squeezing water from a sponge whenever your dog leans forward, putting tension on the line. The squeezing helps your dog to come back into balance over all four legs, and lets him know you will not be holding him up if he leans into the line.

Never initiate a “pull” on the line yourself. Your dog may get excited (probably will) and is likely to lunge forward, or pull into the line. That is to be expected, and we will help him to stay calm and balanced. But, you, as a teacher, should never use the line as a correction device, or to initiate a pull. Instead, you will use your voice and body language to invite your dog to move with you and to stay in balance and connected to you.

Remember, we want to use the line to communicate, so it’s a cable of connection between you and your dog, allowing information to flow freely back and forth.

You might be surprised how often you actually pull your dog around when they are leashed to you. It is very common for me to watch perfectly nice people, who love their dogs dearly and would never wish to harm them in any way, come to my farm and pull their dogs all over the place without even knowing. These folks are distracted, they are in an unfamiliar environment, they are busy meeting new people and new dogs, getting set up or trying to listen to me speak. And, as all of this is happening, they are not paying attention to their dogs, and as a result, they end up not letting their dogs know they are about to go somewhere, and just take off - pulling poor Fido around with them.

Connected HerdingTM


64

Give your dog the

same level of attention

you would like him to

give to you!

When I teach my Sheep Herding 101 seminars, one of the exercises the participants do is practice leading one another around so everyone gets first hand experience on what it is like to be the dog and how to shift their handling with the valuable feedback from their human partner. It’s a great exercise, and everyone learns a lot and I have to say: there is much less leash pulling going on after that!

It might be helpful to enlist a human partner to practice line work. It helps if the handler decides on a task, such as to lead the “pretend dog” from that tree to that fence, without telling the pretend dog where you’re going, communicating only as if the pretend dog were a real dog who doesn’t understand human language. Ok to use body language, voice, intention, and to talk thru the line, just like you might ordinarily do leading your real dog. It’s a lot of fun, and great learning to experience what it’s like to be a dog. Trade places with your partner and discuss in between sessions, exploring ways to become a better handler using your partners feedback.

Key Points: Be flexible with your body and arms, like a rubber band. Hold the line firmly in your hands. Use the line softly and with intention. Never initiate a “pull” on the line. Think “communication”, not dragging or pulling

Case Study 1: Maya’s First Time on Sheep.

Maya demonstrates what might happen if you have a talented dog who is mindful and accepts your leadership, which you have developed before you start your dog on sheep. I spent 6 months doing ground work with Maya before this session which takes place when she’s a year old. When she came to me at 6 months old, she had already wore out her welcome at 3 homes , was declared ‘untrainable’, and I was her last chance. The foundation work is so important and as you see with Maya, can take a dog from unreachable to brilliant!

Connected HerdingTM


65

Maya demonstrates

calm and steady work

her first time on sheep.

Maya started working on a line, but the line was mostly slack, because she has such a nice feel for the sheep herself. She’s not pulling, leaning in, rushing at the sheep…she’s just quietly walking into them, so I was able to let her steady on her own. I did first lead her into a couple of flanks, which were very nice once she started flanking.

Kathy and Maya

preparing to enter the

pen.

Are You Ready?

So, you’ve been practicing teaching your dog the foundation skills and developing partnership for weeks now! Great job! Let’s talk again about one more thing: staying at the gate.

There is one thing that is so very important to teach your dog, and that is to be calm, mindful, patient and to be responsible for themselves once they understand what’s expected. The best place to work that out is at the gate. So, now that you’re about ready to bring your dog into your small working pen let’s review the gate entrance. You are the gate keeper, and your dog needs to understand that there is only one key that opens that gate and it’s to wait until invited to come with you through the gate.

If you are still actively body blocking your dog to keep them from busting past you thru the gate, or must keep repeating ‘stay’ over and over as you open the gate, you dog is not ready!

If you thought your dog was ready, but when you approach the gate with sheep, your dog is antsy and impatient, simply stay calm and clear about what you expect and patiently work at the gate. If you spend your entire session working at the gate, that’s

Connected HerdingTM


66

OK. Remember you are setting the stage for the rest of your dog’s herding career. Take your time, and do it right!

The main elements are that your dog stays while you go thru the gate first, then you call your dog to you, and have them calmly stay with you while you fasten the gate latch. If your dog stays, but then when you call her in to you, she runs past you to get to the sheep, just take her back out and try again until you have success. Do your best to stay connected to your dog, keep her attention on you and make it very easy for her to come directly to you and wait for you to close and secure the gate.

If you have a youngster, she might stay right at your feet while you back in thru the gate. If you have an older, more experienced dog, you might expect her to stay back 10 feet and come directly to you when you call. Be realistic with your expectations, and look for ways to ensure your dogs success.

67

Chapter 31 The First Introduction to Sheep

The Goals for the first session: Foster calm, mindful behavior in you and your dog. Foster your dog’s keen interest in the stock. Practice identifying the flight zone bubble of the stock. Practice communicating with your dog thru the long line, with your body language

and your intention. Practice the Lift, Steady, Stop and That’ll Do. That’s a long list, so keep your session short…you can go back in a time or two the

same day, 5-10 minutes at a time.

If you have more time to spend than that, work with your dog outside the pen, practicing flanks, stops and that’ll do’s.

Maya demonstrates

eager and calm focus

on the sheep.

Handler Focus

We’ll be talking more about this in lessons ahead…in the meantime, I would like you to begin learning how to look out in front of you with solid focus, while seeing your dog beside you with soft eyes, or your peripheral vision. You can do this as you practice in your yard with your dog. Pick an object to focus on that might represent the sheep, and as you look at that object, “see” your dog at the same time.

In the first picture below I am looking out ahead at the sheep, while in the second picture I am glancing at my dog with more focus. Typically, I am intently watching the sheep most of the time, but I do glance down at my dog frequently and very quickly, then right back at the sheep, Keep this in your mind as you visualize working with your dog, this is the model I would like you to mirror.

Connected HerdingTM


68

First Time on Sheep, The Steps 1. Once you’re in the pen with the sheep, you and your dog turn and face the sheep

together. You are modeling keen, mindful interest in the sheep, and help your dog to do the same, using your intention and body language. Your dog is close by your side.

2. Then, you and your dog walk to a place that will allow the sheep to move away from you. Remember, the sheep move away from your dog, so be sure the sheep can move directly away from your dog. Look ahead in front of the sheep.

3. Once you are in position, begin walking calmly and in a mindful, yet purposeful manner towards the sheep. Every step you take, you are watching the sheep and assessing your position relative to the flight zone edge. You are seeking the edge of that bubble, you are modeling that seeking behavior to your dog. You will stop when you find it. You will know you have found it when the sheep fidget, and begin to look around for a path of escape. Learn to read their body language.

4. You will now step towards the sheep in the same calm, purposeful manner, gently pushing into the bubble. Your goal is to put just the right amount of pressure that will cause the sheep to move as a unit, slowly away from your dog.

5. As the sheep begin to walk away, you and your dog will take a few steps more towards the sheep, (a “steady”), then you will stop. Your dog can either stand, sit

Connected HerdingTM


69

or lie down. You will both be facing the sheep, who will likely stop when you stop. If they keep moving, that’s OK, you just stop for a few moments.

6. You will assess whether or not the sheep still have the ability to move away from your dog. If not, just move to a new place that will allow the sheep to move away from you.

7. Repeat the process. Find the bubble–press into the bubble gently–move the sheep a few steps, then stop, you and your dog facing the sheep.

8. Now, practice your call off: ‘That’ll do’. Be sure you are connected to your dog, then simply turn your self away from the sheep as you call your dog’s name and encourage him to come with you, saying “That’ll do” as he comes off the sheep with you. Praise! Good dog!

9. Then repeat the process a couple more times. 5 minutes or so is good. Then leave the pen, take a break, and go back in for another five minutes if you like. Three 5 minute sessions the first day is enough.

Beginner team

approach sheep

for the first time.

Tip #1: If your dog seems worried and sniffs the ground or looks at you, make it fun and be sure you are praising your dog each step of the way. Use your clicker to mark the behavior you are shaping. Remember that when working with sheep, your praise and “the sheep” are the rewards to your dog.Consider that you may need to praise more frequently for very small progress.

One thing that happens with less confident dogs is that they become worried when their handler is “disconnected” from them and that happens when the handler is trying to learn something new themselves. Remember to model the behavior you would like your dog to mirror, so be keenly interested in the sheep yourself and be very encouraging to your dog, while you look at the sheep!

Tip #2: If your dog is over-stimulated by the sheep, and is lunging, barking and difficult to communicate with, I suggest moving back as far from the sheep as it takes for her to be calm. That may mean starting outside the pen, and a distance from the

Connected HerdingTM


70

sheep. Work on attention to you and heeling, sits, downs, stops etc, using calm praise and your clicker, gradually working your way closer and closer to the pen.

The goal is to keep your dog calm and settled, so as your dog settles, begin moving a bit closer when your dog is calm, then stay at the new distance until your dog is calm again, and repeat. So, you’ll be moving in perpendicular rows (relative to the sheep), keeping your dog busy and focused..but do ask her to stop and sit or lie down facing the sheep periodically, perhaps just for a moment, then turn and move again. This will take as long as it takes, there is no point to rush your dog into the pen with sheep if she can’t think and learn.

Key Points: Soft Eyes on your dog. Focus on your sheep so you can find the edge of the bubble. Stay connected to your dog, be flexible on the line.

71


Now let’s talk a bit about two important details: The Lift and Being Flexible on the line. These two concepts are important parts when you introduce your dog to sheep for the first time.

Let’s start with the Lift. Below is a series of still photos taken from a video that show the frame-by-frame process of the Lift. Go thru the photos in sequence, and notice all the details that you can.

Case Study 1: The “Lift”

Picture 1

Notice how the lead ewe is looking at Chelsea, and the others are shuffling around, looking for their path of escape. They will not actually move away until Chelsea has lifted the leader. Notice Chelsea’s head and body language. Chelsea is right at the edge of the bubble.

Connected HerdingTM


72

Picture 2

See the lead ewe begin to look away, but the other sheep are still shuffling around, not sure what to do. Chelsea is taking her first very slow step forward, almost a lean, rather than a step.

Picture 3

All the sheep are now facing away from Chelsea, who is beginning to move forward herself.

Connected HerdingTM


73

Picture 4

Chelsea is now pushing into the bubble, moving the sheep forward with a steady. Notice the sheep, and notice Chelsea. That wa a great lift!

Case Study 2: Learning to be Flexible

The stills below are taken from a video with Chelsea and Ida. This series of photos demonstrates the sequence of events that cause the dog to hit the end of the line and be spun around inadvertently by the handler.

Picture 1

You can see Chelsea is eager and leaning into the sheep, Ida is trying to keep up with her, but you can see Ida leaning forward, beginning to become imbalanced.

Connected HerdingTM


74

Picture 2

Chelsea lunges forward, and you see Ida plant her right foot.

Picture 3

Ida plants her left foot as she tries to keep her balance, which puts Chelsea into a spin.

Connected HerdingTM


75

Picture 4

After the spin, they recover and continue to work.

Case Study 3: Learning to be Flexible, Take 2

Same video, these stills are from the next time around the pen. This time, Ida is able to keep her feet moving while squeezing the line and communicating to Chelsea to settle down, without causing her to spin or be corrected with the line. Chelsea is still very excited, so we are looking to find a way to balance her eagerness with mindful work. It will get better as soon as her handler gets the feel.

Picture 1

You can see Chelsea lunging toward the sheep, and Ida momentarily looses her balance and leans forward.

Connected HerdingTM


76

Picture 2

Ida recovers quickly, allowing her arm to stretch out like a rubber band and is keeping her feet moving nicely.

Picture 3

You can see Ida’s head, shoulders and hips aligned in good balance. No spin from Chelsea his time!

Connected HerdingTM


77

Picture 4

After the lunge, Chelsea settles down and goes back to work.

One final point for this lesson is that if you are “retraining” your dog, or if your dog has already been turned loose with sheep and allowed to chase them around in an excited fashion, she may be more challenging to handle on the line. Dogs have great memories, so your dog is likely to be expecting to be turned loose again. If this is the case, stay calm, be patient yet firm, let your dog know that chasing behavior will not be allowed, that we now have new rules, so let’s get to work learning them. Model what you want your dog to learn, and she WILL get it, once she is clear about the new rules.

Spend as much time as it takes to establish the calm, mindful, yet keen and interested behavior that you would like from your dog. It will be well worth the investment in time and energy!

78


Key Points: Teach your dog to “Get Back” Practice Stay at gates leading to your stock. Learn how to use your long line effectively as a communication tool. Introduce your dog to stock, focusing on nurturing calm, mindful and keen behavior. Practice identifying the edge of the bubble, and begin to teach your dog to Lift. Practice the Steady for short distances, and the Stop at the end of the Steady. Teach your dog to call off stock with That’ll Do.

79


Teaching your dog to “Get Back” will help her to understand how to move away from your personal space.

A. True

B. False

The main function of using the long line is:

A. To correct your dog whenever a mistake is made.

B. To keep your dog from running away from you.

C. To communicate with and teach your dog.

D. To keep your dog close to you.

Key points for using the Line are:

A. Be flexible, speak firmly yet softly with your hands, use body language to model the skills you are teaching your dog.

B. Hold the line tightly, plant your feet so your dog doesn’t pull you over, jerk the line whenever your dog looses focus.

C. Keep tension on the line at all times, never take your eyes off your dog, pull him in the direction you need him to go.

When you introduce your dog to stock, keep working your dog until he gets everything perfect.

A. True.

B. False

When passing thru gateways with my dog:

A. I should pass thru first, while my dog waits to be called in to me.

B. My dog must stay at least 20 ft from the gate, for at least 3 minutes before being allowed to pass thru.

C. My dog and I should pass thru the gateway together.

My focus for our first sessions in the pen with sheep will be:

A. To learn how dog and sheep interact.

B. To nurture calm mindfulness and keen interest in my dog.

C. To practice finding the edge of the ‘bubble’ and practicing the ‘lift’.

D. Learning to communicate with my dog thru body language and my connection with the line.

Connected HerdingTM


80

E. Teaching my dog to ‘steady’ for short distances.

F. Practice stops and that’ll do a few times each session.

G. Be sure our position will always allow the sheep to easily move away from my dog, not feeling trapped by the fence or corners.

H. All of the above

81


I hope you enjoyed the quiz questions today and that you did well! As you practice this week, remember to chunk each task down into small segments that will allow both you and your dog to be successful.

Your homework for this week is: Continue your work off stock: asking your dog to lie down, sit, stay in more

distracting environments and to stay for longer times, and at more distance from you.

Continue to teach your dog flanks off stock: Come Bye and Away to Me. Your current goal is for your dog to understand the verbal cues for the flanks means to turn out onto the circle and move a few steps on the circle, releasing with head, shoulders and body, then stopping and turning to look at the focal point when asked.

Introduce your dog to your stock, work in short sessions with your goal to teach calm, mindful and keen behavior in the presence of the stock.

Remember to set small goals every training session and record your notes in your training journal.

82



Teaching your dog to “Get Back” will help her to understand how to move away from your personal space.

A. True.

The main function of using the long line is:

C. To communicate with and teach your dog.

Key points for using the Line are:

A. Be flexible, speak firmly yet softly with your hands, use body language to model the skills you are teaching your dog.

When you introduce your dog to stock, keep working your dog until he gets everything perfect.

B. False

When passing thru gateways with my dog:

A. I should pass thru first, while my dog waits to be called in to me.

My focus for our first sessions in the pen with sheep will be:

H. All of the above

Lesson 5 Build on Basic Skills and Learn

Flanking

83


Review your homework from Lesson 4: Continue your work off stock: asking your dog to lie down, sit, stay in more


Continue to teach your dog flanks off stock: Come Bye and Away to Me. Your current goal is for your dog to understand the verbal cues for the flanks means to turn out onto the circle and move a few steps on the circle, releasing with head, shoulders and body, then stopping and turning to look at the focal point when asked.

Introduce your dog to your stock, work in short sessions with your goal to teach calm, mindful and keen behavior in the presence of the stock.


gateways? What is the distance from you your dog will reliably lie down? How are you doing with the flanking exercises? Does your dog flank well at least a few steps with your help in both directions? Can you see your dog beginning to understand the flanking cues? Is your dog having more difficulty going in one direction over the other? Describe the circumstances, environment, distractions when your dog is most successful and least successful for each of the core lessons your are working on this week.



You can always email me for advice if you are feeling stuck or confused.

84

Chapter 38 Lesson 5: Build on Basic Skills and Learn Flanking

Lesson 5 introduces flanking to your dog in the context of the sheep; and we’ll talk a bit more about handling. Below is an outline of what you will be learning:

Communicating Effectively More Line handling Teach Flanks on sheep Practice Steady, Stop and That’ll do, on sheep Review the Lift

85

Chapter 39 Communicating Effectively

One of the reasons that I suggest several short working sessions, rather than one long session, is the challenge of staying this focused for very long, both for the handler and the dog. This level of focus requires conditioning, gradually increasing the duration over weeks, months and years. There is a LOT to process, and until some of the skills become sub-conscious, it is a challenge indeed!

There is a definite triad relationship between dog, sheep and person while you work your dog on stock, flowing in all directions, often at the same time. At this stage, you are learning about the stock, and how the animals relate to your dog, both as individuals and as a group. And, you are learning about your dog, and how your dog responds to the stock, and to you and your guidance. Your dog is learning about the stock, how they influence their movement, and how to look to you for guidance and advice. And, of course, the sheep are responding to all of this engagement in their own way.

A very important aspect of working with your dog on sheep is finding balance between allowing your dog to think, to tap into their instinct and to learn from their mistakes–and being attentive to you and your guidance. This balance is difficult for novice handlers to understand and to maintain, but a solid foundation of what is happening and what you may expect goes a long way to assist you in reaching for this balance.

Dog and Handler

working as a team to

pen difficult sheep.

My advice for you at this beginning stage will also apply to your lessons for months and years to come:

1. Your first task as your dog’s teacher is to understand what exactly you are trying to teach.

2. Chunk the lesson down into small segments that are easy for you and your dog, success along the way is important for both of you.

Connected HerdingTM


86

3. The more you understand about sheep and any other stock you may work, the more likely you and your dog will be “on the same page” and your communication will be enhanced. Your dog knows much more than you about the sheep, before she even steps a paw into the pen. What she doesn’t know is what to do and how exactly to do it. That’s where you come in. But, the better you understand what the sheep are experiencing and how they are likely to respond..the easier it will be for you to connect with your dog and control the movement of the stock. Spend as much time around sheep as you can, in as many venues as you can. Volunteer to help at trials, and at friends farms - without your dog - and learn everything you can. Watch the sheep every chance you get.

4. Learn to be congruent with your intention, body language, voice inflection and verbal cues. The more congruent you are, the better your dog will understand and the faster your progress will be. This level on congruency comes with experience and intention. It is enhanced with your clarity of the lesson at hand.

5. Look continuously for opportunities to praise your dog, and your self. Reinforcement for small steps in the right direction go a long way towards successful working sessions and real progress with your lessons and goals.

Key Points: Stay focused: on your dog, your sheep, your intention. Practice congruency; aligning your intention, body language, voice and cues

87

Chapter 40 Elements of the Flanks

Reviewing the Elements of Flanks

Direction: The dog travels around the sheep, either clockwise or counter clockwise. Think of the sheep as being in the center of a circle, or hub of a wagon wheel, and the dog is traveling around the outer edge of the circle (flight zone) either Come Bye (clock wise) or Away to Me (counter clockwise).

Distance: We want the dog maintaining an equal distance from the sheep, never traveling within the flight zone and always just on the outside edge of the circle, or wagon wheel.

Attitude: The dog’s intention as it’s flanking is such that the sheep do not feel compelled to move away from the dog. The dog is “releasing” or turning it’s head and shoulders away from the sheep, sort of bending its body in the shape of the circle that represents the bubble of the flight zone. The sheep must not feel that he dog is “coming after” them during the flank.

Purpose: We use flanks to get the dog in position to change the direction (or path) of the sheep.

Key Points: The elements of the Flanks: Direction; Distance; Attitude The purpose of a Flank: to change the direction of the sheep.

Maya learns to flank

Come Bye around the

sheep.

Connected HerdingTM


88

Teaching the Flanks

Now, let’s talk about practicing flanks in the pen with your sheep. Here are the important elements of teaching the flanks to your dog:

1. The sheep are in the center of their personal space bubble- and the dog works on the edge of the bubble. First step is to find the edge of the bubble.

2. Model the flanks with your body language and intention, so your dog can mirror your movements. You turn your head, shoulders and body onto the circle and help your dog to do the same.

3. Use your off-side hand if necessary to help your dog turn their head onto the circle. We are not teaching a hand signal, simply helping get the head turn as necessary.

4. Quicken your pace as you and your dog flank.

5. All flanks start and stop with you and your dog facing the sheep. The sequence: Face your sheep with your dog at your side -- turn onto the circle and help your dog mirror your movement -- click as your dog turns onto the circle -- move two-three yards on the circle -- look in at your sheep, which signals to your dog you are about to turn in, then turn in with your dog, facing your sheep. Remember to squeeze your line…and to adjust your intention and body language as you start and stop your flank. It is very helpful to flank towards the direction the sheep are looking at this stage. Your dog will be more relaxed about “heading off” the sheep, therefore will flank more willingly…and you will also be preventing the sheep from moving away from your dog.

6. It’s important to end the flank with a stop that you have initiated.

Dog and handler

moving together info a

flank around the

sheep.

Connected HerdingTM


89

To begin teaching the flanks, start with your sheep standing in a location that they are happy to stay in, alongside a fence is good. Visualize the sheep being surrounded by an invisible bubble and locate the outer edge. You will practice flanking just outside of the bubble so the sheep don’t actually move much. They will likely turn their orientation away from your dog as you flank, maybe take a step or two, but we want them to be relatively stationery as you work.

If the sheep are moving quickly away from your dog, that lets you know that you are inside their bubble and are affecting the sheep. That means you either started inside the bubble in the first place, or your distance from the sheep decreased as you and your dog flanked. If this happens, stop, call your dog off and re-approach the sheep, again seeking the outer edge of the bubble. Stop BEFORE the sheep look like they want move away from you. You are looking for them to acknowledge your dogs’ presence by fidgeting slightly but you do not want them to be uncomfortable enough to move away.

If your dog is very excited and is disturbing the sheep, simply take your dog farther away from the sheep, to whatever distance helps her to settle down and think calmly. Then you can move in closer to the bubble as your dog relaxes into the work, eventually being able to work just outside the bubble.

The sheep are in the center of the ‘bubble’.

90


Case Study 1: Flanking

Teaching the “Come Bye”

Below are a series of still pictures captured from a video of Chelsea and Ida learning how to flank.

Ida is looking at her dog a bit too much in these photos, but it takes practice to look ahead at where you are going, while keeping both the sheep and the dog in your sights. Overall, this is a great first attempt at the flank. I really like the way Ida is using her body language to model the flank for Chelsea and she has a nice hold of the line.

Picture 1

Ida is doing a great job of turning Chelsea out to start the Come Bye flank.

Connected HerdingTM


91

Picture 2

You can see Chelsea looking away from the sheep in this photo. I think that my voice and clicking caught Chelsea’s attention for a moment.

Picture 3

Ida and Chelsea are now traveling in the shape of the circle, in a come bye flank around the sheep. Chelsea is looking in, but maintain her flank shape.

Connected HerdingTM


92

Picture 4

Ida and Chelsea have adjusted their position and are now traveling in the shape of the circle very nicely.

Teaching the “Away to Me”

In the series of pictures below Ida and Chelsea are practicing the “Away to Me” flank.

Picture 1

Ida is doing a great job of turning Chelsea out to start the Away flank. Everything is good: their position on the circle, body language, speed, attitude, the line

Connected HerdingTM


93

Picture 2

Ida is actually looking ahead, instead of at her dog. Yes!

Picture 3

We have captured the moment that Ida is ending her flank, and everything still looks good: Chelsea is understanding Ida’s intention and she is turning towards the sheep nicely. Again, Ida is looking at her dog but that will get better with more practice.

Connected HerdingTM


94

Maya’s Introduction to Sheep

Picture 1

We are both looking at the sheep, Maya is holding them against the fence. This is the correct position to begin and end your flanks.

Picture 2

I have begun to move into the flank, asking Maya to come along with me, and I am still looking at the sheep, probably to be sure they are staying there, and to assess their response to our flanking.

Connected HerdingTM


95

Picture 3

We are still flanking, but I am shifting my intention back to the center, intending to bring the flank to an end. I am now glancing at Maya, to determine if she is still connected to me so that I am prepared to help her turn in and stop as needed.

Picture 4

As noted by the loose line, Maya didn’t need any additional help, and in this photo we are just about to come to a complete stop, turned in on the sheep.

Connected HerdingTM


96

I’d like you to note the two different positions the handler has assumed during flanking, between Ida on the previous demo and me on this demo. You can see that in Picture 3, I am slightly behind Maya and allow her to take the inside track on the flank.

Ida, on the other hand needed to stay on the inside of Chelsea, taking the closer track, to be sure Chelsea stayed out on the flank.

Either position is OK, and you can experiment with both ways. Some dogs do better being “displaced” to the outside by the handler…and other dogs do best when being “called” out to the circle by the handler. Try both positions and see what works best for you and your dog.

Typically, what happens with most of my students is they start with the handler being on the inside track, and evolve to the handler position losing importance, as the dogs are more practiced at flanking and can hold the shape of the flank on their own.

To practice flanks with the handler taking the inside track, you start with your dog at your side of your intended flank. So, if you are going to flank come bye, your dog is on your left. If you are flanking away to me, your dog is on your right. Then, you are turning into your dog as you start your flank. Just as you have been practicing in your yard.

To practice taking the outside track, you start the flank with your dog on the opposite of the flank. So, if you’re flanking come bye, your dog is on your right…and on your left for the away. Then, as you are turning into your flank, you encourage your dog to turn in the same direction as you. I like to use a “kissy” sound to call my dog into the flank as you move into the flank, helping your dog to move with you.

Key Points: The sheep are the center of your circle, you and your dog work on the outside

edge of their bubble of personal space. Use body language and intention to teach your dog to flank properly. You are teaching your dog by modeling, and your dog learns by mirroring your

moves. All flanks start and stop with you and your dog facing the sheep. The sheep are relatively stationery at this beginning. If they move when you flank,

you are likely too close. Stay calm and focused, remember to use your line as a communication tool.

97


Key Points: Continue to practice using your leash or rope as an effective communication tool. Every time you work your dog on stock, focus on nurturing calm, mindful and keen

behavior. Teach your dog to Flank on sheep. Help your dog to “release” on her flanks, a few

yards at a time, maintaining the shape of the circle.

98


The main function of the long line is to communicate with and teach my dog.

A. True

B. False

To be an effective teacher using the line: I should be flexible, speak firmly yet softly with my hands and use clear body language to model the skills I am teaching my dog.

A. True

B. False

The purpose of a flank is:

A. To get around the sheep as fast as possible.

B. To change the direction or path of the sheep.

C. To get my dog to back off the sheep.

As learn and teach my dog about herding, my focus will be:

A. To understand what I want to teach.

B. To chunk the lessons down into small segments that will ensure success along the way, which is important for both of us.

C. To learn all I can about sheep and other stock that I work to make it easier to connect with my dog and work in partnership to control the movement of the stock.

D. To learn to be congruent with my intention, body language, voice inflection and verbal cues.

E. To look continuously for opportunities to praise my dog, and myself.

F. All of the above.

All flanks should:

A. Start and stop with the dog facing the sheep.

B. Go around the sheep 360 degrees.

C. Be clockwise in direction.

Connected HerdingTM


99

If the sheep move while I am practicing “wagon wheel” flanks outside the zone:

A. It’s because my dog moved inside the zone, or my dog’s attitude is not about releasing.

B. I should determine how to better help my dog to flank properly.

C. The sheep are too flighty.

D. I should just give up flanking.

E. I might need to flank my dog further away from the sheep until she is more relaxed.

F. Flanking towards the direction the sheep are looking will help to hold them in place.

G. A, B, E and F.

H. All of the above

100


I hope you enjoyed the quiz questions today and that you did well! As you practice this week, remember to chunk each task down into small segments that will allow both you and your dog to be successful. Enjoy the learning!



Continue to teach your dog flanks off stock: Your current goal is for your dog to understand the verbal cues for the flanks means to turn out onto the circle and move a few yards on the circle, releasing with head, shoulders and body, then stopping and turning to look at the focal point when asked.

Introduce flanking using your sheep, keeping the sheep in one position on the fence line. Continue to practice the lesson from last week of finding the edge of the bubble; lift and move the sheep short distances always being sure they can move away from your dog. Practice using your line effectively. Work in short sessions with your goal to teach calm, mindful and keen behavior in the presence of the stock.


101



The main function of the long line is to communicate with and teach my dog.

A. True

To be an effective teacher using the line: I should be flexible, speak firmly yet softly with my hands and use clear body language to model the skills I am teaching my dog.

A. True

The purpose of a flank is:

B. To change the direction or path of the sheep.



All flanks should:

A. Start and stop with the dog facing the sheep.

If the sheep move while I am practicing “wagon wheel” flanks outside the zone:

G. A, B, E and F.

Lesson 6 Moving the Sheep Around the

Pen

102


Review your homework from Lesson 5: Continue your work off stock: asking your dog to lie down, sit, stay in more


Continue to teach your dog flanks off stock: Your current goal is for your dog to understand the verbal cues for the flanks means to turn out onto the circle and move a few yards on the circle, releasing with head, shoulders and body, then stopping and turning to look at the focal point when asked.

Introduce flanking using your sheep, keeping the sheep in one position on the fence line. Continue to practice the lesson from last week of finding the edge of the bubble, or zone; lift and move the sheep short distances always being sure they can move away from your dog. Practice using your line effectively. Work in short sessions with your goal to teach calm, mindful and keen behavior in the presence of the stock.



gateways? Will your dog lie down when running in your yard at a distance from you? How are you doing with the flanking exercises? Is your dog reliably flanking well 3-4 yards in both directions off your verbal cue? If not, how can you adjust your teaching plan to reach this goal? If yes, what is your next phase, and what are the steps you will take to get there?

How did the flanking exercise with sheep go after the last lesson? What are the elements that went well? What elements need improvement? Where did you feel competent as a handler? And, where do you need to practice more?



103

Chapter 47 Lesson 6: Moving Sheep Around the Pen

In this lesson we’re going to talk about putting all your skills together into the task of moving the sheep smoothly and confidently around the pen. You’ll use flanks to change the direction of the sheep, and practice smooth transitions as you and your dog move between stop, lift, steady and flank. And, we’ll talk again about the lift; one of the most important skills!

Below is an outline of what you will be learning: Build on skills learned in previous lessons. Use flanks to change the direction of the sheep. Practice smooth transitions between flank, stop and steady. Continue to refine the lift.

104

Chapter 48 The Lift – Take 1

Dog Meets Sheep – A Crucial Encounter

Let’s again review the Lift. Here are the elements, and the process that takes place just before, during and just after the lift. Dog mindfully approaches sheep, seeking the outer edge of the flight zone. Dog uses it’s “presence” to convince sheep to consider moving away. Dog mindfully steps toward sheep, pressing into the bubble with just the right

amount of pressure that causes the sheep to turn away. Dog purposefully modulates pressure as sheep move away and ensures each

individual is convinced to move straight away.

This team

demonstrates a perfect

lift.

There are some common behaviors that come up when dogs are learning how to lift sheep for the first time. Some dogs are just natural, and they easily learn how to lift the sheep, with no problem. Other dogs have quite a different response! Here are some of the most common behaviors that I see, and my recommended course of action for you.

Troubleshooting the Lift

1. What if My Dog Lunges or Charges at the Sheep?

Your dog is likely intimidated by the sheep, and when she feels the pressure from the personal space bubble of the sheep, she doesn’t know how to respond. This intimidation is likely stronger when the sheep are ‘staring’ at your dog. So, she lunges in a more threatening way to “scare” the sheep off. Unfortunately, this is also self-reinforcing, because the sheep DO actually move away from the dog who is lunging at them. The dog quickly learns that this works well, therefore is likely to repeat this method of ‘lifting’, unless managed well by the handler.

Connected HerdingTM


105

The method I teach my students to use takes a bit of time, but is effective, and reshapes the dogs behavior to a more effective method.

Here is the outline: Approach the sheep with your dog at your side, making sure that your approach is at an angle that will allow the sheep to easily move away. Have a nice, neutral yet firm connection with your dog on the line. Keep squeezing the line as you approach the sheep, lots of fast short squeezes. Stop your dog every step or two as you approach, just for a moment, then take another step or two while you are squeezing the line. Click or quietly praise your dog for each step that is successful.

Stay focused on your sheep, stay connected to your dog. As you step, pause, step, pause, you are modeling to your dog how to proceed and you are allowing the sheep to turn away and begin to walk off. As the sheep begin to walk, and take their first step, be sure to stop your dog for a moment. Your dog may feel the sheep are “out of control” as they begin to move away, and you want to show your dog that he can control the sheep, even as they move, from behind them.

Your dog will be standing the entire time, not sitting or lying down. Repeat until your dog relaxes and this new and improved method becomes the habit.

Young collie, Chelsea

lunges at the sheep

with excitement.

2. What if My Dog Barks at the Sheep?

Refer to #1. If your dog is barking and lunging at the sheep, follow the same instruction. However, some breeds of herding dogs use their bark to move sheep as a natural tool. Shelties and Aussies come to mind as two breeds who commonly use their bark. So, we don’t want to take their bark away but we want to teach them that in most circumstances, their bark is not necessary, and they CAN lift the sheep with their presence alone in most cases. With this type of barking, I would either follow #1 or, I would ignore the barking and simply focus on the work, knowing the dog will learn from my modeling, and from their own experience that the bark is not needed. (also see 3).

Connected HerdingTM


106

3. What if My Dog Tries to Bite the Sheep?

See #1. Your dog is most likely biting (or trying to bite) because they are intimidated by the sheep. Be sure not to allow your dog to get in too close to the sheep. You may be approaching the sheep so quickly that they don’t have time to turn and move, or you have them trapped in a corner or on a fence.

Bear in mind that many dogs will hold the sheep in such a covert way that an inexperienced handler doesn’t even realize that their dog has moved into a position that now causes the sheep to feel trapped. So, the handler thinks the dog has to move closer in to the sheep to “make” them move and the dog bites or barks.

Keep checking your dog’s path and position relative to the sheep and their path of travel, be especially mindful as you approach the fence or corners.

Another thing to consider is that you are moving too slowly, and your dog is simply impatient with your slowness. So, try picking up your pace a bit and see what response your dog gives you.

Your dog may only do this as the sheep walk away, so in this case your dog simply feels like she is losing control of the sheep as they move. Or, perhaps your dog is simply exuberant in either case, you might still need to do the step-pause-step-pause pattern to help your dog get calm and remain flexible and rubbery as you work.

This was the case with Chelsea, as shown in the above photo. You watched this video and saw this happen in the still photos in previous lessons. With Chelsea, a combination of working a bit faster and staying flexible helped her settle in to her work.

107


Case Study 1: Ida and her Collie Chelsea

At first, Chelsea is a bit worried, and sniffed the ground quite a bit, not sure what to do. So I asked Ida to pick up her pace and work much faster, in order to increase Chelsea’s interest in the (now quicker) moving sheep. I begin clicking any sign of enthusiasm from Chelsea. As a result of the faster pace and marking her enthusiasm with a click!, Chelsea’s attitude shifts from worried to excited.

Now that Chelsea is excited, she begins to run and lunge a bit at the sheep. This challenge requires that we counter-balance Chelsea’s speed and enthusiasm with focus that is split between sheep and her handler. Ida begins to work at settling Chelsea, but also must stay focused on keeping Chelsea keen for working the sheep.

Ida does a great job of putting all these elements together, and Chelsea begins to relax while enjoying the work. All in all, this results in a great session, where we have put all the basic skills together for the first time in the context of keeping the sheep flowing around the pen.

Ida and her collie Chelsea

working.

Case Study 2: LeeAnn and her English Shepherd Sadie

When LeeAnn and Sadie began their session, Sadie gave us good feedback, showing us she was not sure what to do by sniffing the ground and looking distracted at times. Lee Ann was also unsure and was moving quite slowly, and looking worried and careful, which transmitted directly to Sadie. I believe that a handler’s lack of experience and uncertainty is the biggest reason a dog gets worried. They really pick up on our mental and emotional state.

With my prompting, LeeAnn began to work a bit faster, and modeled more confidence, allowing Sadie begin to relax just a bit. Sadie’s eagerness to control the

Connected HerdingTM


108

sheep blossomed, once she felt her handler’s confidence and encouragement. Clicking each time she looked at the sheep…then each time she moved forward toward the sheep gave Sadie the feedback she needed.

The most helpful thing about learning all of these herding moves and skills in this mindful way, is that when things don’t go as planned, simply set it up again, and do it over!

English shepherd Sadie

eagerly working.

Case Study 3: Sketcher, an Australian Shepherd and handler Bill

Bill and Sketcher had some early difficulty, Sketcher would only keep his interest in the sheep when he was “having fun” chasing at the sheep in a mindless sort of way. When Bill would ask Sketcher to work calmly, he would lose interest and turn away from the sheep, sniffing and eating sheep poo.

Aussie and handler enjoying

sheep work.

I suggested that Bill work at a very quick pace, almost jogging at times, but at the same time, that he focus on ensuring that Sketcher worked properly, and listened for advice from Bill. So, we took this ‘middle of the road approach’, giving a bit on both sides and it worked quite well. Sketcher became keen and focused on the sheep, and began working very well with Bill. My advice for Bill when he practiced at home after the camp was to gradually ask Sketcher to work more slowly and mindfully, as he and Bill practiced the foundation herding skills.

Connected HerdingTM


109

Case Study 4: Border Collie Oz and handler Kelly Taking it to the Next Level

This team is working at a bit more advanced level, with the handler allowing the dog to take the lead as they drive the sheep around the pen. Once the dog and handler confidently flank, stop, lift, and walk in smoothly and in sync, the dog can be allowed to work out in front of the handler for a session or two to build confidence in driving, while staying connected as a team.

During this lesson, Kelly worked behind Oz much of the time, and Oz worked confidently ahead. An important aspect of allowing your dog to work out in front of you is to be able to smoothly and swiftly change the length and position of the rope. For example, even though Kelly is several feet behind his dog in the photo, he gets quite close to Oz whenever Oz is in a tricky situation, such as lifting the sheep out of the corners and then Kelly simply relaxed his grip on the rope, allowing Oz to move forward once again.

The next level of skill: Border

collie Oz takes the lead,

confidently driving sheep

around the pen.

Looking Ahead

As you work with your dog, remember to notice the quality of the flanks, the driving, the transitions between flank-lift-walk-stop, the sheep, the partnership. See how many details of each of element you can pick out, then begin to visualize and plan how you will expand your skills and your partnership through the work sessions with your dog.

Sheep herding is a constant progression of good partnership, smooth flow, good handling, good shepherding, moving from beginner to mastery. The journey to mastery will take longer for some teams, and will go quickly for others, but, however long it takes, it is in perfect time!

110

Chapter 50 The Lift – Take 2

Trouble Shooting the Lift

OK, now let’s move back into trouble shooting the lift. This time, we’ll look at different issues.

4. What if My Dog Turns Away from the Sheep?

5. What if My Dog Acts Distracted or Disinterested?

These two have same response. Most likely your dog is worried about the sheep; worried about doing the wrong thing; worried about being corrected for approaching the sheep, or worried that you, the handler, are distracted or worried yourself. Or it could be any combination of all these things. Your dog is simply relieving her concern by distracting herself.

If your dog looks away or sniffs the ground or eats poo or grass, but keeps working even if she seems distracted, simply ignore the displacement behavior and keep working with enthusiastic focus.

Be sure you click and give verbal encouragement more frequently, and work in a joyful way. Do your best to stay focused on the task at hand and look at your sheep so your dog has a clear model to follow.

What I have discovered over the years is that most of the displacement type of behavior is directly connected to the beginner handler learning and thinking. As soon as the handler get the feel of moving and controlling the sheep while communicating with their dog, the dog perks right up and it’s evident that the dog was paying close attention all along.

Some dogs are very sensitive to their handlers, and if you accidentally correct your dog by being inflexible with the line, or just forget to praise and/or click because you are concentrating on the sheep too much, some dogs can become a bit worried.

Now, if your dog is very distracted and not working at all, in other words, he is pulling away from the sheep, or refuses to walk with you towards the sheep, or is trying to leave you, trying to leave the pen, etc. then you need to make this a lot more fun for your dog. You may need to sort of “chase” the sheep with your dog, running after the sheep in an encouraging way until your dog realizes this is fun!

In this case, you’ll be moving the sheep around the pen in a much faster way than we ultimately want to do, and not paying much attention to form or style…but that’s OK, what we need right now is to “keen up” your dog and have them want to control the

Connected HerdingTM


111

running sheep. Then, you have something to work with, and can start shaping the skills into their more acceptable form. Often, with dogs that are less than fully keen, we work them at a very quick walk or jog to cause the sheep to move faster and get the dog interested.

Another thing to try with a very sensitive dog is to remove the wrapped harness from your dog. So, you’d just connect the line clip to their collar. If your dog is that sensitive, they are not likely to pull on the line anyway, and they may be intimidated by the feel of the line around their ribs. That may change in the near future, so if your dog changes to being keen and forward on the sheep…that’s a very good thing! At that time, you may need to switch to the wrapping the line into a harness to help your dog settle. Or not, some dogs never need that extra help of the harness. Maya is a good example she was light in my hand and sensible with the sheep from the very beginning.

In the photo, you see Mika, an English Shepherd, grabbing a mouthful of grass just as she is lifting the sheep. If you look at the sheep, you’ll see they are just turning away from Mika, but the pressure is a bit much for her, so she displaces her anxiety by eating grass.

Dog is dropping her nose to

the ground and needs some

more encouragement.

112

Chapter 51 Putting it Together

Moving the Sheep Around the Pen

The skills you will practice include the following: Approaching and entering the gate mindfully. Don’t enter the pen and start unless

your dog is calm and patient at the gate. Remember, your goal is to nurture calm, mindful and keen behavior in your dog while in the presence of the sheep.

Finding the edge of the bubble/flight zone. Model a focused approach to the sheep, seeking to locate the outer edge of the bubble.

Lifting properly. Help your dog to be a calm, confident leader while listening to you for advice. Push into the bubble with just the right amount of pressure in just the right place that causes the sheep to turn and calmly move straight away from your dog as a group.

Driving the sheep away with Steady. Steady with the pace that is most helpful to your dog, perhaps a bit slower, or maybe a bit quicker. Keep the sheep moving at a purposeful walk or slow trot.

Flanking properly. Remember to stay on the outer edge of the ‘bubble’ in a circular shape, release with head, shoulders and intention.

Stop and Lie Down. Incorporate a stop in between each element, that’s between a flank and a steady, between a steady and a flank, between multiple flanks or more extended steady’s. At the end of a short session, holding the sheep still on the fence.

That’ll Do. Incorporate calling your dog off the sheep several times into every session. Make a solid connection with your dog, perhaps make eye contact, turn away from the sheep and call your dog to come with you as you turn…make it easy and fun for your dog to come off the sheep, especially if they are very

Connected HerdingTM


113

intense and keen, and unwilling to leave the sheep. At this early stage, you’ll be teaching your dog that That’ll do does not necessarily mean the work is done, and that they are likely to go right back to work, or go back into the pen after a break.

Focus on the sheep, soft eyes on dog. You are modeing intent focus on the sheep, while keeping an eye on your dog.

Using all your communication skills with good handling. Remember to strive for congruency with your intention, body language, voice and verbal cues and keep it in the context of partnering with your dog to control the movement of the sheep.

The Steps to a Successful Session

Here is the sequence I would like you to start with:

1. Enter the pen with your dog.

2. Move mindfully towards the sheep, with the intentions of finding the outer edge of the zone, and holding the sheep still along a fence.

3. Stop your dog at that place, and hold.

4. Move into a flank that will get your dog in a position which will allow the sheep to freely move away from your dog.

5. Stop with a brief pause at the end of that flank, then move in towards the sheep and lift them.

6. Drive the sheep straight away from you for a few yards, then stop.

7. Drive a few more yards, then stop.

8. Flank around the sheep in order to get to the place that stops and holds them against the fence, stop your dog at that place and hold.

9. Move into a second flank, in order to change direction, and move the sheep around the pen the opposite way.

10. Repeat steps 5-9 several times.

11. Practice a that’ll do, move away from the sheep, pet and praise your dog.

12. Repeat steps 2-11 several times.

Key Points:

1. Work with your dog to control the movement of the sheep be sure you both feel partnered, and stay focused on the sheep.

2. If the sheep run away from you, there are a couple of possible reasons: (assuming your dog’s attitude is workmanlike and you are using suitable sheep)

Connected HerdingTM


114

a. Your dog got inside the flight zone at some point and scared the sheep into running away. Keep your dog on the outside of the zone.

b. You flanked too far, allowing a free path of escape to the sheep, allowing them to go where they want. Watch your sheep so you know when to stop the flank. Stop your flank just as the sheep are about to look in the direction you want them to go ,allowing for natural momentum to finish the turn, maybe a step or two. You can also try flanking in the opposite direction a step or two (away from the fence), that should help to keep the sheep from running away.

3. If your sheep stop instead of moving along the fence as you intend:

a. Your dog moved into a position that causes the sheep to feel trapped against the fence or corner. Your dog may be really working at trying to stop the sheep, and is taking a step or two towards the inside of the pen, trapping the sheep. Try moving off into a flank towards the fence, which is the outside of the bubble. That should allow them to move, then work at keeping your dog in position to drive the sheep away.

b. Your dog is not applying pressure to the bubble, so the sheep don’t feel they must move away. Remember, your dog must apply steady forward pressure into the bubble, or the sheep will not believe your dog has the presence to move them

English Shepherd moving

sheep in the round pen.

115


Remember to keep practicing, chunk your lessons down into small steps, and look for small successes all along the way. These basic skills will eventually evolve into amazing levels that will allow you and your dog to complete most any chore and to compete in the highest levels of trials.

So Remember: Continue to practice using your long line effectively as a communication tool. Every time you work your dog on stock, focus on nurturing calm, mindful and keen

behavior. Move your sheep smoothly and confidently around the pen. Practice good flanks to change the direction of and to hold the sheep. Practice smooth Lifts. Practice smooth transitions between flank, stop, steady.

116


The main function of flanking is to change the direction/path of travel of the sheep.

A. True

B. False

Seeking the outer edge of the flight zone bubble to control the movement of the sheep is:

A. My dog’s responsibility.

B. My responsibility to learn and teach.

C. A behavior I want to nurture in my dog.


E. None of the above.

Focus on the sheep, soft eyes on my dog” is:

A. Never a good idea.

B. Something I must teach myself and practice.

C. A practice that will help me to communicate with my dog.

D. Likely to get me in trouble fast.

E. A and B.

F. B and C.

G. A and D.


A. To understand what I want to teach.

B. To chunk the lessons down into small segments that will ensure success along the way, which is important for both of us.

C. To learn all I can about sheep and other stock that I work to make it easier to connect with my dog and work in partnership to control the movement of the stock.

D. To learn to be congruent with my intention, body language, voice inflection and verbal cues.

E. To look continuously for opportunities to praise my dog, and myself.


Connected HerdingTM


117

The elements of good flanking are Direction, Distance and Attitude.

A. True

B. False

If the sheep move while I am practicing “wagon wheel” flanks:

A. It’s because my dog moved inside the zone, or my dog’s attitude is not about releasing.

B. I should determine how to better help my dog to flank properly.

C. I might need to flank my dog further away from the sheep until she is more relaxed.

D. Flanking towards the direction the sheep are looking will help to hold them in place.

E. All of the above.

If the sheep run away from you while you are moving them around the pen:

A. Your dog is not calm and workmanlike.

B. The sheep you are using are inappropriate for this level of work.

C. Your dog got inside the flight zone, scaring the sheep.

D. You did not stop the flank soon enough when changing direction, allowing the sheep a path of escape.


If the sheep stop while you are trying to move them around the pen:

A. Your dog has moved into a position that cause the sheep to feel trapped, or held on the fence.

B. Your dog is not applying appropriate pressure to the bubble, so the sheep do not feel a need to move away.

C. You have not watched your sheep carefully enough or responded appropriately to the information they are transmitting in order to keep them flowing around the pen.



Connected HerdingTM


118

To help my dog to control the movement of the sheep:

A. If they are running away, I should be sure my dog is on the outer edge of the bubble, and move my dog a step or two to the inside of the pen.

B. If they are stopping or going too slow, I should try moving my dog to the outside of the pen towards the fence, and be sure he is pushing into the bubble.

C. I should be aware of the pen “pressure”, (know where the sheep want to go), and help my dog to work in a position that keeps them flowing in my intended direction.



119


I hope you enjoyed the quiz questions today and that you did well! As you practice this week, remember to chunk each task down into small segments that will allow both you and your dog to be successful. Enjoy the learning!



Continue to teach your dog flanks (off or on) stock: Your current goal is for your dog to understand the verbal cues for the flanks means to turn out onto the circle and move on the circle, releasing with head, shoulders and body, then stopping and turning to look at the focal point when asked.

Put the skills learned in this course together into the task of moving the sheep around the pen. Practice lift, steady, stop, flank, that’ll do. Practice using your line effectively. Work in short sessions with your goal to teach skills and calm, mindful and keen behavior in the presence of the stock.


120



The main function of flanking is to change the direction/path of travel of the sheep.

A. True

Seeking the outer edge of the flight zone bubble to control the movement of the sheep is:


Focus on the sheep, soft eyes on my dog” is:

F. B and C.



The elements of good flanking are Direction, Distance and Attitude.

A. True

If the sheep move while I am practicing “wagon wheel” flanks:


If the sheep run away from you while you are moving them around the pen:


If the sheep stop while you are trying to move them around the pen:


To help my dog to control the movement of the sheep:


Documents

Kathy Kawalec’s Connected Herding · 2021. 2. 26. · Connected HerdingTM Lesson 1: Sheep Herding 101 3 2009 Nursery Finals Qualified and Competed with ‘Sue’ and ‘Luc”,