world of textiles india - A. Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbH & Co. KG · 2019-07-30 · e-Mail: [email protected] WOT India 2017.qxp_Layout 1 18.05.17 17:10 Seite 2. 4 A win-win

world of textiles india

References Worldwide special issue www.monforts.com

WOT India 2017.qxp_Layout 1 18.05.17 17:10 Seite 1

THINKING AHEADFOR SUSTAINABLE SOLUTIONS

Sustainable technology for the dyeing of PES/cellulose and elastane-

based blends. Monforts has developed the Econtrol® process together

with DyStar and hence achieved a further worldwide success.

Econtrol® T-CA is a one-bath dyeing process for polyester/cellulose

blends - also with elastane - with the matching Thermex range

technology.

The dyeing method is based on Monforts Econtrol® Technology hence

significant economic benefits and a substantial contribution to

sustainable production due to saving of water, energy and chemicals

can be archieved. A wide range of colours can be covered.

Outstanding reproducibility from the laboratory onto the production

line with good colour fastness.

Simple process route: Padding, Econtrol dyeing, thermosoling, washing.

This route represents a significant cost saving compared with the

conventional pad-dry - thermosol - pad-steam process.

Ask our technologists. We will be happy to advise you.

Econtrol® is a registered mark of DyStar Colours Distribution GmbH, Germany

A. Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbH & Co. KGGermany | A Member of CHTC Fong’s Group

www.monforts.com

A.T.E. Enterprises Private LimitedA-19, C.T.S. No. 689 Veera Desai Marg.Mumbai - 400 053Tel.: 0091-22-66 76 61 00 Fax: 0091-22-2673 2446e-Mail: [email protected]


4 A win-win partnership

5 A strong current performanceand a bright future in India

6 Nahar Fabrics steps up production capacity

9 India’s first Eco-Line installed by Arvind

12 Monforts - A trusted technologypartner of Vardhman Group

18 Covering all bases for new product development

20 Trident expands into bed linenwith five new Monforts units

26 Himatsingka Linens to doublebed linen output with three new Monforts units

29 Cost savings for continuous dyeing with Monforts Econtrol®/T-CAand Eco-Line finishing

30 Premier Fine Linens makes first-time investment

bnm

Issued byA. Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbH & Co. KG

Blumenberger Strasse 143 - 145, D-41061 Mönchengladbach,

[email protected]

Editors: Klaus A Heinrichs, John HooperPhotography: Joem Promotions

Layout & Design: Alan Humphrey

A strong partnership

From its foundation more than 75 years ago ATE Enterprises -headed by the Bhagwati Dynasty - has played a key role in the phenomenal growth of the Indian textile sector; proving to be a strong representative and a reliable partnerof Monforts.

The strength of the Indian market continues to be technologydriven. Monforts plans for the future will see a furtherstrengthening of its teleservice support across the continentfor the benefit of its customers.

The new Eco-denim finishing concept with reduced energyconsumption is rapidly gaining acceptance in the country. Future market growth is also forecast in the coating sectorfeaturing Monforts range of advanced coating machines.

These exciting developments are set to ensure a furtherstrengthening of the even closer partnership between Monforts and ATE.

Roland Hampel,Managing Director

Contents

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world of textiles India | special issue

“In view of our strong domainknowledge of the Indian market,textile processes and sustained re-lationship with Indian customers,A.T.E. has been very successful inintroducing Monforts technology toIndian textile mills.”

As the representative in India,ATE has enjoyed considerable suc-cess selling Monforts machines tocustomers with its service team,supported by Monforts, ensuringthe machines met the customers’expectations.

It also invested in the training ofsales and service staff on Monfortstechnology.

“Over the last few years, ourprocessing sales and service teamacross the country has worked hardin transferring the knowledge andknow-how of Monforts very effec-tively to Indian customers,” ex-plained Mr Bhagwati.

Through its representation of majorinternational machinery manufac-turers and the formation of domes-tic manufacturing operations, theA.T.E. Group has made a crucialcontribution to the power of India’stextile industry.

With an annual group turnoverof over US$100 million and 800+employees in India, A.T.E. hasgrown to enjoy a formidable pres-ence in the textile engineering sec-tor, with successful diversificationsinto print and packaging equip-ment, flow technology, machine-to-machine solutions and mostrecently, clean tech.

“A.T.E. was started in 1939 as acompany with both social and busi-ness goals,” said third-generationHead of the Group, Anuj Bhagwati.

“Over the years, we have part-nered with the Indian textile indus-try to reach a leading position.“

“We have grown steadilydecade by decade. Each of the sec-

A win-win partnership

Mr. Anuj Bhagwati, Head, A.T.E. Groupa

Mr Gurudas V Aras, Director,Textile Engineering Group, A.T.E.

tors we serve is critical to sustain-able production and also helpsusers to improve their bottom lineby saving costs or improving pro-ductivity, including the very latesttextile technology.”

One of A.T.E.’s most significantpartnerships is with Monforts,which has become a householdname in the Indian textile industry.

“A.T.E. has played a crucial rolein the success of Monforts in Indiaover many years,” said Mr Bhag-wati.

According to company director,G V Aras, Monforts is continuouslyupdating and introducing newtechnology to meet the demands ofthe Indian market.

“It’s recently introduced newdenim concept with reduced energyconsumption, for example, is rapidlygaining acceptance in India. And tomeet future demand for coating ap-plications Monforts has introduceda range of advanced coating ma-chines.”

“This is why we are successful ingaining the major market share forMonforts in India over competitors.A.T.E. has worked in a true sense asa real partner to Monforts, ratherthan only as an agent, in the Indianmarket.“

“I am sure that this relationshiphas created a win-win situation forall concerned, including our cus-tomers.“

“Given the expected growth inthe Indian textile industry, we feelconfident about our prospects,” MrBhagwati concluded.


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According to Hans GerhardWroblowski, Area Sales Director forSouth East Asia, the past three orfour years has seen a concentratedburst of sales of Monforts technologyin the region.

“For example, typically, efficientteleservice from Monforts is helpingour customers to minimize down-times dramatically.“

“The quality end of the textilesproduction industry has always in-vested in European technology, inorder to secure their own output lev-els and meet the needs of their over-seas and local buyers,” he said,adding, “Now, market conditionsoverseas and at home are such thatmany textiles producers are expand-ing their production capacity.“

“They are looking for reliability,the capacity to innovate, and aboveall for the quality they need to com-pete on the world markets.”

He cites growing world demand,changing domestic markets and theincreasing quality of Indian produc-tion, with many manufacturers inthe world-class league and also in-creasingly adhering to the environ-mentally friendly production tech-niques demanded by overseasbuyers.

“The textiles sector is the secondlargest provider of employment inIndia, after agriculture. The Indiantextile industry has strength acrossthe entire value chain. If the presentsituation prevails, India could achieve

between 15% and 20% growth inexports over the next decade,” hepredicted.

“The potential for denim is espe-cially encouraging.“

“Worldwide, the denim marketis growing strongly. Domestically,denim forms a relatively modestshare of the apparel market, but thegrowth in the number of shoppingmalls and in the local and interna-tional brands is going to see thisshare increase.“

“We are currently seeing a num-ber of Indian denim producers ex-panding their production lines,” hesaid.

India has always been a hugeproducer of home textiles, includingbed linen, towelling, table linen, andfurnishing fabrics, and a boom in thedomestic affordable housing sector ishelping growth, along with strongerdemand overseas from the leadingbrand names.

Internationally, consumers aretending towards more frequentchanges in home and office décor,and looking out for new and moreinnovative styles.

“Finer quality cotton and otheryarns, better dyes and more creativepatterns are all helping to drive thismarket,” he predicted. “Many house-holders and interior design compa-nies coordinate their colours and fab-rics, and so sales to a singlecustomer in the market can be sub-stantial.

The future in India for Monforts has never beenbetter, with the textiles industry in an extremelypositive mood on both the domestic and exportfronts, and many producers intent on expansion.

A strong current performance and a bright future in India

Globally, technical textiles account for more than one third of all textile consumption.

Hans Gerhard Wroblowski, Area Sales Director, South East Asia

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The US, Japan, South East Asia,Middle East and European countriesare all major export destinations forIndia.“

According to Hans, technical tex-tiles is another area of the Indiantextiles business that is showinggreat promise, especially since theMinistry of Textiles launched its Tech-nology Mission on Technical Textiles,which is helping to develop world

class testing facilities at eight cen-tres across India.

“Globally, technical textiles ac-count for more than one third of alltextile consumption.“

“Currently, India accounts foronly a small proportion, but produc-ers are investing in this sector andprojections are that it will grow sub-stantially from now onwards,” heconcluded.


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A Montex stenter, a Thermex contin-uous dyeing range and a Monfortexshrinking unit have been installed inthe Fabrics No 2 division of NaharIndustrial Enterprises as part of astrategy to increase production from1.5 million metres per month to 2.2million metres.

Nahar Industrial Enterprises(NIEL) was founded in 1983 and is avertically integrated textile manufac-turer with operations ranging fromspinning through to weaving andprocessing. The company is locatedat Lalru, in the state of Punjab.

Across the entire group, prod-ucts range from pullovers throughto cardigans, shirts, coats, babysuites, shawls, blankets, and knit-ting wool.

Yarn of all types is used, includ-ing woollen, woollen blended, cot-ton, polyester cotton, other blended,compact yarn, mercerised gassedyarn, and organic cotton yarn.

Mr SS Basu, president of NaharFabrics, said that the division hastwo process units, the first havingbeen established in 1999 and thesecond becoming operational in2007.

“Fabrics No 1 unit is producing2.5 million metres per month,” hesaid, adding “No 2 unit is producing1.5 million metres, but the capacityof our preparation range is for about2.2 million metres.“

“We have not been able to runat our full capacity before, as we didnot have the dyeing capacity.

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India’s Nahar Fabrics No 2 division increase productioncapacity by 30% with three new Monforts units.

Nahar Fabrics steps up production capacity

Mr SS Basu, president of Nahar Fabrics

This new installation will utilise existing preparation capacity

and enable Nahar to increase fabric output by a third.

Munish Kumar, Assistant Manager for Sales at the ATE Enterprises Chandigarh office

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8 world of textiles India | special issue

are the armed forces of several othercountries. The company is a majorsupplier of sportswear, and has agrowing output of Lycra and techni-cal textiles.

“Apart from our wide range ofproducts, we are always willing tocustomise products to a client’s spe-cific need,” said Mr Basu. “Our extradyeing capacity will open up thispossibility for us to an even greaterdegree.“

“We have major markets in Eu-rope, Latin America, South Asia, theMiddle East, the Far East and Africa,and we are very much aware thatwe can enjoy further potential inmany of these markets.”

Nahar Fabrics uses exclusivelyEuropean technology, with equip-ment from Germany, Italy andSwitzerland and uses dyes andchemicals from Europe. The com-pany has Thermex, Montex andMonfortex units installed earlier inboth of its Fabrics divisions.

“I have been here since 2006,and have been working continuallywith Monforts machines,” contin-ued Mr Basu. “We have alwaysachieved outstanding results. We

did not consider investing in anyother make of machine for this ex-pansion.”

NIEL employs a total staff ofabout 6000, with the Fabrics No 2plant employing some 600.

“The energy saving componentof the Monforts units was an inte-gral part of Nahar’s discussions with

“Installing the Thermex dyeingrange, the stenter and the shrinkingunit will enable us to reach our fullcapacity of 2.2 million m within thenext 12 months.”

Across NIEL there are 550looms and a modern dyeing housewith a capacity of 6 tonnes of yarnper day.

The company’s expertise is in 100%cotton and cotton blended fabricsand a variety of weaves, includingtwills, chinos, gabardines, canvas,tussers, cavalry twills, satins, andbroken twills.

NIEL has a deliberate policy of anextremely diverse client base, withno one customer accounting formore than 5% of total revenues.About 60% of production is ex-ported with the remaining 40% fordomestic consumption.

The company is an approved fab-ric vendor for global brands such asGap, Tommy Hilfiger, Calvin Klein,Ralph Lauren and Marks & Spencer.Domestic brands include Color Plus,Allen Solly, Numero Uno and LouisPhillips.

The Indian army is a major buyerof Nahar’s fabrics and garments, as

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us,” said Munish Kumar, AssistantManager for Sales at the ATE Enter-prises Chandigarh office.

“Energy prices are rising all thetime and, by recycling the heat en-ergy of the Monforts machines,Nahar can achieve energy savings ofup to 75% on this part of their pro-duction line.”


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Montex foam finishing units, whichare also able to handle the samewidth of material.

Arvind is rated in the top threedenim producers in the world, andsees great export potential at atime when India’s denim sector isapproaching an over-supply situa-tion.

Aamir Akhtar, Chief ExecutiveOfficer of Arvind Lifestyle Fabrics’Denim division, considers that inIndia the denim industry is growingat a compound annual growth rateof 13% to 15%.

India’s largest producer of denim,Arvind Ltd, has installed an Eco-Line denim finishing range at itsmill in Ahmedabad as a means ofincreasing production, reducing en-ergy usage, and responding morequickly to customer requests forspecified designs and finishes.

The Eco-Line is the first to be in-stalled at a mill in India, with Mon-forts Area Sales Director for SouthEast Asia, Hans Gerhard Wroblows-ki, predicting that Arvind’s early in-vestment in this new technologygives the company at least a year’slead ahead of the competition fromother Indian mills.

The Eco-Line, which can handlefabric widths of 1800 mm and op-erate at high speeds of up to 80m/min, is operating alongside four

Left: Diwakar Tiwari, Head of Processing; centre: Rajat Passi,Head of Materials, denim and corporate; Aamir Akhtar, CEO of Denim Fabrics

India’s first Eco-Line installed by Arvind

We consider this to be a highly significant step into India and indeed intoAsia for the Eco-Line. We expect there to besubstantial demand when the results onthe denim sector become apparent.V Babu, General Manager Sales, ATE Enterprises Ahmedabad office

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Faster production and major savings in energy arebeing achieved with the new Eco-Line that Arvindhas installed at its Ahmedabad mill.



Whilst India is one of the majorglobal suppliers of denim fabrics,the country’s denim export marketshare still falls far behind its do-mestic market, which is 65% of thetotal production.

Arvind’s own export-domesticoutput is around 50:50, but muchof the domestic production isworked up into garments and ex-ported, so distorting the figure: tak-ing that factor into account, MrAkhtar believes that the export pro-portion is closer to 60%.

Arvind had been founded in1931 as a maker of traditional In-dian clothing, but in 1984 mod-ernised and brought denim into thedomestic market, thus starting thejeans revolution in India.

Today it retails its own brandslike Flying Machine, Newport andExcalibur, and licensed internationalbrands including Arrow, Lee, Wran-gler and Tommy Hilfiger, through itsnationwide retail network.

Ahmedabad has since seen thearrival of several other denim pro-ducers, to the extent that the city,which is in the state of Gujarat, inWestern India, is regarded asIndia’s capital of denim.

The company has also diversi-fied into other sectors, namely Bot-tomweight, Shirting and Knit, eachof which makes extensive use ofMonforts technology.

Mr Akhtar said that Arvind staysahead of the competition througha policy of design and innovation.

“We have our own major R&Dfacility, and we eat, think, sleep,and breathe design.“

“Encouragement to new ideascan be found at every step of the en-tire value chain of our denim makingprocesses. It is in our DNA,” he said.

“We have fibre and yarn inno-vators, process innovators, finish in-novators, equipment innovators,fabric and garment designers. Qual-ity goes alongside design, and wehave a dedicated customer coun-selling team that continuously re-solves any quality issues.“

“For all this, we need the best intechnology. Having been a Mon-forts user from the earliest days, wehad no hesitation in investing in thenew Eco-Line.

“Not only does this make useven more responsive to customerneeds and demands, and more cre-ative in our design and production,there is also the very great energysaving advantage and tight controlover emissions.”

The Eco-Line was manufacturedin Germany/Austria and installed bylocal representative, ATE EnterprisesPrivate Ltd.

C V Babu, ATE’s General Man-ager for sales at the company’sAhmedabad office, said that theEco-Line system reduces energylosses and energy use, increasesthermal transfer and keeps the dry-ing energy on the textile material

longer, so that it can be used veryefficiently.

“As a result, energy savings ofup to 50% can be achieved. Ex-haust air energy can also be re-

duced to a minimum, which has apositive effect on the emission loadinto the atmosphere,” he said.

Arvind has its own waste waterplant at the mill estate, and is proud

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prominent products including ringdenim, indigo voiles, organic denim, bi-stretch denim and fair trade certifieddenim. This is apart from regular light,medium and heavyweight denims.

of the fact that the waste water thathas passed through the plant is soclean that fish can swim in it, a tankwith live fish being maintained as ademonstration for visitors.

According to Hans Wroblowski,competing companies in India arewatching the progress of Arvind’sEco-Line.

“This development has the po-tential to radically change the In-dian denim industry.”

He continued, “Although the ma-chine has been installed for only sixmonths, our customer is reportingsignificant advances in production.”

Arvind’s current annual denim ca-pacity is 110 million metres, with

They come in various shades ofindigo, sulphur, yarn-dyed, in 100percent cotton and various blends.

“Denim is a great lifestyle prod-uct,” said Mr Akhtar, who himself

habitually wears denim to the of-fice. “It is also tremendously versa-tile. We are very, very upbeat aboutour global future.”


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Monforts - A trusted technologypartner of Vardhman Group

Sukhwant Singh Bains, centre, and Hans Gerhard Wroblowski,

pictured with key members of the new production line team.


The Vardhman Group is one of India’s top producers of fabrics and is one of the few ver-tically integrated fabric suppliers in the country producing fabrics for both tops and bot-toms in the apparel segment serving large retailers in the USA, Europe and Asia.The group is recognised as a consistent quality supplier of yarn and fabric across theglobe and achieved a leadership position in various segments of textile value chain inthe country by consistently working on technology, human capital and processes achiev-ing world class standard under the visionary leadership of Mr. S P Oswal, Chairman andManaging Director of Vardhman Group.


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Vardhman Fabrics Budhni is afully vertically integrated unitof Vardhman Group near Bhopal,Madya Pradesh in Central India.

With a weaving capability ofmore than 180 million metres peryear and a processing capacity ofover 114 million metres across a

wide specialty fabric range, thecompany intends to expand tomeet the ever-growing demand forquality fabrics worldwide.

A world class facility in terms oftechnology and human resources,created with a vision to produceworld class fabrics following the

Vardhman Fabrics has installed a second productionline of three Monforts stretching, dyeing and finishingmachines as part of a massive expansion plan acrossseveral divisions in the Vardhman Group



group’s core values and achievingoperational excellence in manufac-turing with an investment ofRs.1,600 crore (US$23.5 million)spread over 780 acres of land.

The facility has a fully automaticcentral warehouse and other mostmodern technologies like R.O. &MEE signifying its commitment to-wards environmental sustainability.

As a part of technology policyand to achieve operational excel-lence, Vardhman Fabrics Budhni has

been continuously investing inworld class technology suppliers in-cluding Monforts; installing threeThermex Pad Dryers, three Montex6500 stenters and two sanforisersin 2008.

Driven by long term relationshipphilosophy with a trusted supplier,it has installed a second completenew production line comprising aThermex Pad Dry, a Monfortex8000 stenter and a sanforiser as apart of the Vardhman Group’s strat-


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world of textiles India | special issue16

egy for a massive expansion in pro-duction output.

The new production line is han-dling woven and sensitive material,mainly cotton, cotton/polyester, cot-ton/spandex and 100% polyester.

ATE Enterprises Private Ltd, theMonforts representative in Indiahandled the installation.

The Vardhman Group is again inthe midst of expansion and addingfabric processing capacity in bothits locations at Himachal Pradeshand Madhya Pradesh.

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“We produce world-class tex-tiles and wish to maintain our rep-utation as a preferred fabricssupplier,” said Sukhwant SinghBains, Vice President for Productionat Vardhman Textiles.

He continued, “Our existingMonforts production line helps usto achieve this, and we have beenvery satisfied. We need technologythat can deliver not just state-of-the-art performance but which canperform consistently day in and dayout, without the slightest hiccup.“

“We are a technology-forwardcompany and a pioneer in bringingnew technology into the industry,”

In terms of fabric production,Vardhman exports about 35% ofits output and 65% goes to thedomestic market. Much of the do-mestic output however goes toother divisions in the group and toother producers for making intogarments for export. The total ex-port figure is therefore closer to70% serving all major retailersacross the globe.


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The latest Monforts coating linehas been installed at the com-pany’s Advanced Technology Cen-tre (ATC) in Mönchengladbach,Germany, responding to demandfrom the coating industry and fol-lowing the acquisition of know-how from coating specialistTimatec.

It accommodates the entirerange of Monforts coating options- including magnetic roller coating,knife over air, knife over roller, andprinting head coating options suchas, for example, magnetic rollercoating for lacquering or minimalapplication.

Other processes include screenprinting with epoxy resins, phenolicresins, organic silicones and otherreactive resins and, like the ATC’stechnical textiles line, the range isfully enclosed and equipped forhandling flammable solvents. Options with three linesWith the creation of the ATC - whichhas involved an investment of over€3 million over the last four years -a new innovation has been created

for a global hub providing unlim-ited options for new product devel-opment, with three completeinstallations making it possible tocarry out full production-scale trials.

The ATC also houses a Thermexrange for the continuous dyeing ofwoven fabrics, including the Econ-trol® process, consisting of a padder,infrared pre-dryer, hotflue chamber,cooling zone and winder.

A steam generator for the Econ-trol® dyeing process is installed,along with utilities such as the ex-pansive colour kitchen and extensivefabric laboratory testing equipment.

“The ATC allows customers totest their own textiles and technicalfabrics on Monforts dyeing, finishingand coating machines under fullyconfidential, real production condi-tions,” said Vice-President of Mar-keting, Klaus Heinrichs.

“Using the results from thesetrials, we are also able to make rec-ommendations for improving manyfabric finishes. As a global company,Mönchengladbach remains thenerve-centre for what it’s possible

to achieve with advanced finishingtechniques.”

KnitwearThe Montex 6500 stenter with verti-cal chain return is designed for thestate-of-the art finishing of conven-tional knitwear.

Knitted fabrics, explains ATCManager, Fred Vohsdahl, must neverbe stretched and need to be treatedin a relaxed state.

As a consequence, the 2.2 metrewide, four-chamber stenter incorpo-rates a TwinAir nozzle system thatensures the relaxed fabric is kept ata suitable height in between theupper and lower nozzle system, de-spite ‘bowing’.

Exact selvedge control with theminimum pinning in is also ex-tremely important with knitted fab-rics.

The line is equipped with thecompany’s Eco Applicator systemwhich eliminates the need for a con-ventional wet-on-wet padder, in-stead employing trough and rollertechniques to precisely apply the re-quired amount of liquid/coating tothe fabric.

This is an extremely flexible unit,allowing finishing agents to be ap-plied on either side of the fabric, orboth, and with single or separate fin-ishes.

An obvious example would bethe application of a soil or water re-

pellent finish on the face fabric anda softener or water absorption finishto the other side of the fabric.

“Compared with a padder sys-tem, the initial moisture content of60% is reduced to 40% using theEco Applicator, ensuring a reductionin drying times and reduced energycosts,” explained Vohsdahl.

“These are just a couple of thespecial elements of the line whichhas been engineered for complete,fingertip control of all working pa-rameters,” he added.

“People often talk of the ‘recipe’for setting advanced finishing lines,but for me this word doesn’t accu-rately describe what’s beingachieved and is more applicable tothe dyehouse.“

“We’re talking about setting upand controlling all aspects of the linefor maximum efficiency and re-peatability.”

Technical textilesJürgen Hanel joined Monforts as themanager of the company’s TechnicalTextiles business when the ATC wasjust at the planning stage. He had anumber of specific ideas for whatthe second line dedicated to techni-cal textiles within the ATC should beable to offer.

Firstly, it had to be capable ofprocessing organic solvents, whichcan often be volatile.

Covering all bases for new product development The Advanced Technology Centre in Germany draws on all of the know-how ofthe company in respect of fabric dyeing and finishing, including denim, coating,elastane treatments, over-dyeing, creating special surface effects and muchmore; as it celebrates the opening of its new complete coating line.

We’re talking about setting up andcontrolling all aspectsof the line for maxi-mum efficiency and repeatability.

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StretchingAnother key feature is the specialstretching device which is capable ofpulling ten tons in length and tentons in width - a huge amount persquare metre of fabric and necessaryin the production of materials suchas woven or 3D knits for high tem-perature filter media.

“This line has been engineeredto provide the ultimate in precisionfinishing, in order to achieve thestandards required by the medicalcompanies, and also the qualitystandards in place for aerospace andautomotive grade materials,” MrHanel concluded. “Denim manufac-turers could find much inspirationfrom developments in parallel fieldssuch as these, in addition to benefit-ing from our long experience ofdenim finishing.“

PossibilitiesThe Monforts ATC offers unlimitedpotential for textile manufacturersto differentiate their products andbenefit from Monforts’ vast experi-ence in fields ranging from specialcoating effects, elastane treat-ments, the over-dyeing of fabricsand the creation of entirely newspecial surface effects.

“We are always happy to dis-cuss existing possibilities and alsothe development of new concepts,”says Jürgen Hanel.

“There was a wariness about or-ganic solvents, but in the end,they’re not as difficult to coat on tex-tile substrates as they are on plasticfilms where they’re already widelyused, and they offer a lot of possibili-ties for companies to explore and de-velop entirely new products - especiallyin fields such as medical and filtration,”he said.

Nevertheless, they do require ahighly-controlled and contained envi-ronment, and as a consequence, theATC technical textiles line which incor-porates a Montex four-chamber, hori-zontal chain stenter, is fitted with anexplosion-proof coating applicationchamber.

Every single component within thechamber has to meet the standards ofthe European Union’s ATEX directivesfor working in an explosive atmos-phere.

A range of sensors linked to alarmsoperate at various levels within thechamber to ensure the specified tem-perature range is never exceeded andthe ventilation adapts accordingly.

Special features on the finishingline relate to further advanced func-tions - the ability to treat materialsnot only at temperatures of up to310°C, but also to be able to treatthe top and bottom faces of certainmaterials at different temperatureswithin a single pass through themachine.

Separate temperaturesAs a consequence, the first two cham-bers of the stenter are fitted with spe-cial, heavy duty TwinAir ventilationmotors and separate burners for indi-vidual top/bottom temperature.

A temperature differential of upto 60°C can be achieved betweenthe upper and lower nozzles withinthe chamber.

“There are a lot of applicationswhere employing two separate tem-perature treatments is beneficial,”says Mr Hanel. “For example, floor-coverings - where the textile facefabric is treated at one temperatureand the rubber backing at another -

as well as PVC flooring employingchemical foams or for materials likeblack-out roller blinds with heavybackings.“

“At the same time, in the phar-maceutical industry there arehundreds of different applicationsfor organic solvents such as anti-septic treatments which have tobe treated very carefully and ap-plied at very specific temperaturesin order not to destroy their effi-cacy.”

Other materials, such as PTFE-coated filter materials are alsoapplied and then cured at sepa-rate temperatures.

Left to right: Jürgen Hanel and Fred Vohsdahl


Trident Group, one of India’s biggestproducers of home textiles and aworld leading maker of terry tow-elling, has opened a new division toproduce bed linen and ordered fivenew Monforts machines for the fa-cility in Budhni, near Bhopal inMadya Pradesh.

The new bed linen plant wasbuilt on a greenfield site adjacentto the Trident terry towelling fac-tory, which also uses Monfortstechnology; the most recent instal-lation being a Montex stenter in2015.

For the production of bed linen,Trident is relying on two new Mon-tex 6500 stenters, two Monfortex8000 Sanforisers, and a Thermexwith a CDR Econtrol®.

Each of the machines has beendesigned to handle an extra-widewidth of 3200 mm.


The new machines were manu-factured in Germany/Austria andinstalled by ATE Enterprises Pte Ltd.

According to Chief Executive Of-ficer of the bed linen division, MrRajesh Singh , the installation wascompleted in a remarkably shorttime.

“Usually, if you are starting upa new factory, there is a consider-able amount of time in planningand then installing all the equip-ment.“

“This facility, which is purely forbed linen, came on-line in theshortest time we have ever seen. With five Monforts units being in-stalled, it was a very impressiveachievement.“

He continued, “By the end ofFebruary 2016 we were in full pro-duction. Everything went incrediblyquickly.”

Trident Group is a US$ 1 billionIndian conglomerate headquar-tered in Ludhiana, Punjab. Its flag-ship company, Trident Ltd, is one ofIndia’s leading textile producersand exporters.

Incorporated in 1990 with amodest beginning of 17,280 spin-dles, the company now exports tomore than 75 countries and is es-pecially renowned for its terry tow-elling, being one of the world’sbiggest producers.

The new venture to produce bedlinen was launched late in 2014,and is intended to consolidate Tri-dent as one of the largest inte-grated home textile manufacturersin the world.

The company had first movedinto Budhni in 2009, when it in-stalled 350 looms for terry tow-

India |

Mr J P Shukia, head of bed linen production, at the display area

Trident expands into bed linenwith five new Monforts unitsThe world’s largest producer of terry towelling has opened a new division tomanufacture bed linen and installed a total of five new Monforts machines in itspurpose-built, greenfield facility.


elling. The number of looms was in-creased in several stages up to2014, and the total capacity nowstands at 360 million pieces of tow-elling per year.

Another expansion was anopen-end yarn-spinning factorythat opened in July 2014 with a ca-pacity of 10,000 TPA of cottonopen-end yarn.

According to Rajesh Singh theexpansion into bed linen represents

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world of textiles India | special issue22


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an investment of US$250 million,and has seen the installation of500 air jet looms.

“Our capacity is around120,000 metres of bed sheetingfabric, equivalent to 17,500 sheetsets, per day,” he added.

“The bed sheet unit is backedby a spinning unit of 190,000 spin-dles to make the sheeting plant avertically integrated self-reliant fa-cility manufacturing top-qualitybed sheeting products.”

Trident now has the capacity forover 45 million metres of bedsheeting.

India |


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ing to leverage this to similarly in-crease its bed linen business. Tri-dent also sees a lot of potential forgrowth in the European market,and is also focusing on Australia,New Zealand, Japan, the MiddleEast and South Africa.

According to Area Sales Directorfor South East Asia, Hans GerhardWroblowski, the extra width han-dled by the machines will providethe capacity for extra-large sizesand consequently open greatermarket potential.

“The weight of the fabric is be-tween 125 and 250 g/m², and withthis kind of consistency the specifi-cations fit comfortably into ourproduct range.“

“No fundamental changes wereneeded. We supplied an engineerfrom Germany to supervise the in-stallation alongside ATE’s highly ex-perienced personnel, and conse-quently everything was completedvery quickly.”

Mr J P Shukia, head of bed linenproduction, said that Trident did notcontemplate using any technologyother than the Monforts units.

“We are very familiar with Mon-forts through the installations inour terry towelling factory,” he says.

“We are intent on producing thehighest quality towelling and bedlinen products, and we know thatMonforts can help us achieve this.“

“Along with the Monforts ma-chines we have installed the high-est quality air jet looms, continuousdyeing and processing equipment,and fully automatic cutting, stitch-ing and packing machines.“

“Everything is geared to ex-tremely high-volume production,and to the highest quality. We arevery proud of this plant, which webelieve to be the most advanced ofits kind in India.”

Trident is following the exporttrail established by its terry tow-elling division.

The company has a major sharein the US towels market and is aim-

The extra widthof 3200 mm givesadded flexibility inproduct design,while the fabricweight between125 and 250g/m²covers a broadrange of bed linenrequirements,thereby opening enormous product potential.

Hans Gerhard Wroblowsk, Area Sales Director for South East Asia

❝

❝Chief executive officer of the bed linen division Mr S Singh



Three new machines are beingadded by India’s Himatsingka SeideLtd to the existing line-up of fourMonforts units as the company em-barks upon an expansion that willdouble its output of bed linen, en-tail a backward integration intospinning, and see its first foray intoterry towelling.

The new units include a 10chamber Montex 6500 stenter, aMonfortex 8000, and a ThermexCDR with Econtrol®; all three unitsfeature a fabric working width of3200 mm.

All three new machines are Ger-man/Austria-built and are being in-stalled by Monforts’ representativefor India, ATE Enterprises Private Ltd.

Himatsingka is amongst thelargest producers of bed linen productsin the world.

A vertically integrated home tex-tile company that is engaged in spin-ning, weaving and finishing oftextiles, Himatsingka manufactures,retails and distributes bedding, bath,drapery, upholstery, and lifestyle ac-cessory products.

Its portfolio of brands includesCalvin Klein Home, Barbara Barry,Bellora, Kelly Wearstler, Beekman1802, Pimacott, Atmosphere and Es-prit.

The company operates manufac-turing facilities in India, and retailand distribution businesses acrossNorth America, Europe and Asia.

Its bed linen unit is located atHassan, in Karnataka, and its drap-ery and upholstery unit is at Ben-galuru, also in Karnataka.

Executive director VasudevanVeeraraghvan annouced that the

group is doubling its existing sheet-ing capacity from 23 million metresper annum to 46 million metres.

The company will be installingfor the first time 211,000 spindles aspart of its backward integration into

India |

Executive Director Vasudevan Veeraraghvan.

Himatsingka Linens to double bed linen output with three new Monforts unitsHome textiles producer Himatsingka Linens - a division of Himatsingka Seide - is installing three new Monforts machines as part of an expansion that will double bed linen output and see a venture into terry towelling.


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spinning, and the entry into the terrytowels sector will see it setting up acapacity for 25,000 tons per annum.

“Installation for the new Mon-forts machines will be completed bythe beginning of 2017, and we planto have reached full production ca-pacity within a year, or at most twoyears,” said Mr Vasudevan.

“We are a long-time Monfortsuser, and our company culture in-cludes Monforts, so we simply didnot consider investing in any othertype of machine.“

“Our company is solely in the ex-port sector, and we produce high

quality branded products. That meanswe require the best technology.“

“Certainly, competition is alwaysvery intense, and although our prod-ucts are price sensitive they are verymuch in the fine, high quality seg-ment of the markets.“

“We expect competition, ofcourse, but we do not fear it becausewe have total confidence in our pro-duction quality and in our verystrong distribution.“



“The group has always been for-ward-looking in terms of expandingits product portfolio, acquiring plantsand setting up facilities.“

“The focus on design, technol-ogy and scale has provided highlyprofitable growth, because al-though competition is always in-tense, this has enabled us to main-tain our strong market presence,”he added.

At the bed linen mill the newunits will join two eight chamberMontex 6500 units - one of theunits featuring a Montex Thermexcondensation unit with two curingchambers being positioned on topof the stenter. There is also a Mon-fortex 7000 model Sanforiser and aMontex Thermex CDR Econtrol®

dyeing range, both with 3200 mmfabric working width.

Himatsingka’s first Monforts ma-chine, a Montex 5000, which wasinstalled in 2000, is working in thespun silk division.

“Himatsingka maintains itsMonforts units with absolute in-tegrity, using only Monforts com-ponents and ensuring that everysingle replacement or maintenancepart has a Monforts sticker,” saidSelwyn Devaraj, ATE’s Senior Man-ager for Sales at the company’sCoimbatore office.

“The Montex 5000, installed six-teen years ago has run almost non-stop since then and still looks like anew machine.”

Himatsingka, with a retail net-work across 22 countries, has beengrowing at a compound annualgrowth rate of 15-18% over thelast five years, in a tough global

economic environment and in a sec-tor that is growing at a CAGR of7% to 8%.

The company was founded in1985 and the bed linen manufac-turing facility was set up at the Has-san Special Economic Zone, about200 km from Bangalore, in 2007.

The division was converted froman SEZ into a Domestic Tariff Area inlate 2015. With this came approvalby the Karnataka government forland on which to build a new spin-ning plant with an installed capacityof 211,584 spindles, and the sheet-ing plant that will enhance thegroup’s sheeting capacity from 23 mm pa to 46 mm pa.

The terry towelling project willbe the third phase of expansion.

Mr Vasudevan confirmed thatHimatsingka is planning to expand

its share of the North Americanmarket, and is also looking towardsgrowth in Mexico and Canada withits enlarged capacity.

Expansion of sheeting capacitywill enable the company to makeprinted products, which will en-hance its fashion bedding shares inthe market, and also help Himats-ingka to enter into the basic bed-ding segments where it is currentlynot present.

The vertically integrated bedlinen manufacturing facility isequipped with warping, sizing,weaving, processing, cut and sewand captive co-generation facilities.

At present, before the expan-sion, the facility has 320 weavingmachines and a cut-and-sew ca-pacity for 3.8 million bed sets perannum.

The drapery and upholsterymanufacturing operation isequipped with yarn preparation,yarn dyeing, weaving and finishingcapabilities. The facility has an an-nual capacity of 2.2 million metreswith 110 weaving machines.

The spun silk division predomi-nantly caters to the niche require-ments of the drapery and uphol-stery manufacturing division andalso selectively caters to niche clien-tele who require high quality spunsilk and blended yarns.

Mr Vasudevan said that Himats-ingka Seide employs in total aworkforce of 5000, of which about70% are women.

“We have a strong corporate so-cial responsibilities programme, andbelieve in employing women fromthe villages to help them improvetheir standing in life and provideextra income for their families,” hesaid.

The extra width of 3200 mm gives added flexibility in product design, while the fabric weight between 125 and 250 g/m² covers a broad range of bed linen requirements, thereby opening enormous product potential.Selwyn Devaral, Senior Manager Sales, ATE Enterprises Coimbatore office

❝

❝

India |


Figure 1- dyeing line

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Technical Feature |

Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbH hasbeen active in the textile machinerysector since 1884 and has continu-ously developed - together with well-known industrial partners includingDystar, Acroma, Huntsman and Pleva- new technologies, particularly forcontinuous dyeing and finishing ofwoven and knit fabrics

Figure 1- dyeing lineIn the century of globalisation, it ismore important than ever before, tooptimise work processes in the textileindustry. Today, attention must bepaid to quality and production costswithout neglecting environmental as-pects. The expected high standard ofquality required by the textile markethas reached a completely new di-mension. This applies to export anddomestic markets alike.

Figure 2 - Eco-Line - Eco FinishingThe Eco-Line concept for finishingand dyeing of woven and especiallyknit goods using Eco Applicator,within the wet in wet technology, isa modern technique which meetsthese requirements.

Helping the textile finishing in-dustry to achieve maximum resultswith the minimum use of resources isabsolutely fundamental to the Mon-forts Eco-Line Concept.

This technique offers sustainablecost savings over a wide range ofthe production work. It also furtherimproves the quality of the fabric atthe same time.

To achieve these goals, ‘state ofthe art’ techniques of production and

technologies need to be exploited tosecure market shares in today’sworld, plus being able to withstandthe pressure of price cutting withininternational competition.

Monforts R&D offers solutions fornew products, new and optimisedtechnologies, opening and creatingnew perspectives in modern fashionas well as highlighting the needs anddemands for sustainable productionwithin the industry.

DyeingThe Eco-Line Concept together withthe further developed and refinedprocess Econtrol® and T-CA Dyeingtechniques enables varied colour so-lutions from light to real dark col-oration for knit and woven fabrics.

Cost savings for continuous dyeing with Monforts Econtrol® T-CA and Eco-Line finishingby Hans Gerhard Wroblowski, Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbH, Germany

Figure 2 - Eco line - Eco Finishing

Eco

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Eco Applicator for various fin-ishing and dyeing applications.

These techniques and processesoffer unique effects - improvingcolour depth and fastness and as-sures reproduction of shades (tonein tone)

Typical features of the textile in-dustry’s environment are greaterchallenges but also a lot of oppor-tunities. Machinery manufacturers,have to comply with customers’ in-creasing ecological awareness andhave to meet the objectives relatedto sustainability and environmentalprotection.

The Eco-Line technology offers areal potential for reducing process-ing time and costs, and the initialinvestment outlay of this innova-tive system can be recouped veryquickly.

Graphic results of T-CA and Econtrol®

Ecological and Economic FactsPad-Econtrol®dry-thermosol

Econtrol® T-CAwash-off

Drying

Chemicals Water Energy Cost



Premier Fine Linens (a division ofIndia’s Premier Group) under theChairmanship of Mr R JagadishChandran, specialising in 100%fine cotton bed and table linen, isinvesting in a new Monfortex San-foriser 8000 and a Montex ThermexEcontrol®; to be installed at its millin Coimbatore, Tamil Nadu.

Although other divisions of Pre-mier Group are long-time users ofMonforts technology, this is the firstMonforts installation for the FineLinen division.

The machines can handlewidths of 3200 mm and will typi-cally be handling weights of be-tween 125 and 250 g/m², althoughheavier fabrics of up to 450 g/m²can also be handled.

Local representative in India,ATE Enterprises Private Ltd, will in-stall the new units.

The new installation will greatlyenhance quality control of the pro-duction, which is at the very top ofthe fine quality segment of thismarket.

Premier Group can date itsfounding back to 1948, and is con-

sequently one of India’s oldest es-tablished, as well as biggest, tex-tiles producers. The group is India’slargest importer of Egyptian cotton,and also uses the finest Americancotton and superfine Indian cot-tons.

Premier Fine Linens was founded20 years ago and specialises 100%in products made from very fine cot-ton yarn, which are for export only.

The company operates 375,000spindles, each of them able to han-dle the finest quality cotton yarn.Fabric production for its own in-house production and brands is450,000 metres per month, withanother 400,000 metres for con-tract weaving.

Vice president for Fine Linens,Mr R Mathiyazhagan, said that thedivision specialises in bed linensmade of sateen, dobby, jacquard,percale and yarn-dyed fabrics in arange of thread counts from 200 to1250, using both plied or singleyarns with embellishments likefagotting, marrowing, fancy hemsand embroidery.

The dyeing and finishing facili-ties have a capacity of 1,300,000metres per month, with yarn-dyeingcapacity at 75,000kg. Made-upsheets capacity is 150,000 sheetsets per month.

“We use 100% cotton, organiccotton, Supima and Egyptian andSupima Tencel blend,” confirmedMr Mathiyazhagan.

India |

Premier Fine Linens makes first-time investment Premier Fine Linens, which specialises in ultra-fine cotton textiles, is investing inits first Monforts installation to better control the quality of its output.

Vice President for Premier FineLinens, Mr R Mathiyazhagan


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substances and production underenvironmentally friendly conditions.The company is also certified underthe Global Organic Textile Stan-dard.

“All of our dyeing is done in-house, using organic dyes and low-impact chemicals. We recover,process and recirculate our ownwastewater, using 99% of our ownsupplies.“

“For us, and for our customers,environmental protection alongsideproduct quality sets our standardsand we like to think this is a bench-mark that few other producers canmatch.”

Investing in the Monforts tech-nology allows Fine Linens to en-hance its own quality control andalso its environment and energysavings policies.

“Monforts will also allow us toincrease the innovations and prod-uct potential that we offer to ourcustomers,” says Mr Mathiyazha-gan.

“We can offer better colour con-trol, and improved shrinkage.

“Much of our production isbased on producing exactly whatthe customer wants, to the cus-tomer’s demand, and although thespecifications are always naturallyvery exacting, our lead times canmean success or not for the cus-tomer’s concept.“

“Not so long ago, lead times of120 days would be normal. Then itcame down to 90 days, then 75days. With the Monforts installationwe can achieve 60 days.“

“The 3200 mm working widthalso gives us greater flexibility onproduct development.”

According to Selwyn Devaraj, Sen-ior Manager for Sales at the Coim-batore office of ATE Enterprises, veryfew textiles mills in India have a Mon-forts Sanforiser of this specification.

“Fabric shrinkage across thisfeed size is rare in the bulk market,”he said. “For exceptionally high

quality products, this equipment isthe top of the range.”

Premier Fine Linens is certifiedto the Oeko Tex 100 ecologicalstandards for non-use of harmful

Premier Fine Linens offers the finest quality cotton products made in India, and the new Monforts installation will help them achieve even higher and more exactingproduct standards.

Selwyn Devaraj, Senior Manager Sales, ATE Enterprises Coimbatore office

❝ ❝


A. Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbH & Co. KGGermany | A Member of CHTC Fong’s Group

www.monforts.com

Competence in Denim Finishing

THINKING AHEADFOR SUSTAINABLE SOLUTIONS

>Proven success.The Monforts range combinations for denim finishing are now even more cost-efficient and eco-

friendly: The Monforts Eco Applicator is now used for liquor application.

Drying, stretching and skewing functions for the denim fabric are performed by a modified

Thermex-Thermo-Stretch unit. This configuration allows fabric speeds of up to 40 m/min to be

achieved with 14.5 oz/yd2 denim on the ”single rubber” version.

The ”double rubber” version comprises two compressive shrinkage units and two felt calenders

in line. Together with the innovative Thermex stretching unit, fabric speeds of up to 80

m/min can thus be achieved with 14.5 oz/yd2 denim.

On both range versions, the denim fabric is stretched and skewed far more gently

than with conventional range combinations. Ask our denim technologists.

We will be happy to advise you.

A.T.E. Enterprises Private LimitedA-19, C.T.S. No. 689 Veera Desai Marg.Mumbai - 400 053Tel.: 0091-22-66 76 61 00 Fax: 0091-22-2673 2446e-Mail: [email protected]


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