My Home-Made Bob Beck Electromagnetic Pulser (Thumper)

If you made it to this web page, you most likely have already been researching the Bob BeckProtocol. If you have no knowledge of electronics and are wanting to build your own pulser, Irecommend thoroughly going over Chris Gupta's Pulser page first and then coming back here to fillin the blanks. Here I offer photographs and additional information that may be of assistance toanyone wanting to build their own Bob Beck Electromagnetic Pulser.

Bob Beck Protocol Information: If you would like to learn more about Robert Beck and the BeckProtocol, you can view several Google Videos by clicking on the following Link - Beck Video . Youcan also watch the full Video below (1 hour 57 min). Beyond these videos, there is a wealth ofinformation on the internet about the Bob Beck Protocol. In a nutshell however it implies a fourprocess system involving blood electrification, electromagnetic pulse, colloidal silver and ozonatedwater. If you are experiencing cancer, hiv, lupus, candida or one or more of a host of other ailments,it would be worth your time to research this health process. Also, you can download the entire BobBeck Lecture, "Take Back Your Power" (1MB PDF). I have searched hi and low for this and finallyfound the complete document.

Suppressed Medical Discovery:

Dr. Robert C. Beck ( Cancer,AIDS, anything viral) - 1:56:59 - Aug 13, 2006

Commercially Manufactured Bob Beck Devices: If you are looking for a quality blood electrifierat a fantastic price of only $70, click on the following link (http://photoman.bizland.com/godzilla/details.htm). It uses four 9V batteries. Other commercial models may use only a single 9V batterybut can cost up to $200. If you don't want to, or can't build your own blood electrifier, this deviceshould suffice nicely. I will soon have a web page outlining instructions with photos, to assist thosewho want to make their own blood electrifier. In the meantime, you can access the following web sitefor a schematic and parts list of Bob Beck's original, improved Blood Electrifier and Colloidal SilverMaker

Sota Instruments manufactures and sells more advanced devices ranging from EM Pulsers toOzonating devices and more.Also see Tools For Healing.

Some more technical information provided by Sota Instruments regarding the construction ofelectromagnetic pulsers can be found by clicking on this link.

My EM Pulser is based on Chris Gupta's circuit design. Chris Gupta's Pulser web site can beaccessed by clicking on this link.

The information I provide on this web page is an account of what I have learned in the process ofstudying Beck devices and building my own units for my own experimentation purposes. I assumeno responsibility for anything one might do with the information provided on this web page. Pleaseview any explanations as hypothetical and not as instructions to be followed.

Electric Shock Hazard!This device uses 110V AC current and a bank of capacitors that stores a significant charge. If thisdevice is not built in a safe manor, there can be a risk of lethal electric shock. It would advisable forindividuals that are unfamiliar with electronics, to have someone like a TV repairman build thisdevice for them. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE be absolutely present, mindful and cautious whenworking around exposed capacitors and 110VAC current. As you will read below, even a shock by asingle capacitor from a disposable camera, can be extremely unpleasant. A professor at PennEngineering jokingly recommended that I keep one hand in my pocket. In other words, keeping onehand in my pocket would prevent an electric shock from going across my heart!

Looking on the bright side however, Chris Gupta told me that many people have successfully builtand are using this device based on his schematic. I'm just asking those that are intending to build thismachine, to use safe practices when working around exposed capacitors and hot electrical wires.

Please post any successes, failures, comments or questions on Chris Gupta's Pulser web page.

Please take a close look at the photos below before reading on. As I don't provide a lead-in,reviewing the images will help you to understand what I'm talking about.

All measurements are in Inches.

Plastic Box Outside Dimensions: approximately 2-3/8 X 4-1/4 X 7-3/8

Using 1/2 inch #4 beveled machine screws I fastened a 1/8 inch plexiglas sub-floor to the bottom ofthe box in order to allow for the attachment of the Terminal Contact Bars and the home-made bracketfor the SCR. The sub-floor also provides an insulated suface for the circuit components to be

mounted to. Screws were counter sunk into the outside-bottom of the plastic box and fastened on theinside with a lock washers and nuts. After all components were soldered and attached to thesub-floor, the sub-floor was then fastened to the ends of the four screws coming up from the bottomof the box and again fastened with nuts and lock washers.

Looking at Chris Gupta's EM Pulser circuit, keep in mind that the On/Off switch is on the positiveside of the circuit. The negative side goes to the bulbs, 150V / 130uF capacitor and ultimately to theAnode of the SCR. In electrical circuits, generally it is always the hot lead (+) that is switched. I'mnot really sure if input polarity makes a difference in this circuit, but that is how I did it.

Note: I have since modified my pulser by adding three contact bars to strengthen, simplify andclean-up the solder points for the 150V / 130uF capacitor, two diodes and the resistor. I also addedtwo more photo-flash capacitors to the five shown in the diagram. According to Chris Gupta'scalculations the array of 7 capacitors now store about 41 joules (Watt/Seconds) of energy and willproduce a magnetic pulse of around ~6,000 gauss from the surface of the coil.

I used 14 gage solid copper wire to and from the photo flash capacitor buss to add strength andstability to the circuit components.

Implementing a Strain Relief : Strain reliefs are essential for electrical safety. They prevent cablesfrom being ripped out of a circuit in the event an electrical device gets dropped or e.g., shouldsomeone trip over an electrical chord. I did not have a strain relief when I assembled my pulser. Iplan on adding two strain reliefs, one for each chord coming out of my device.

Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI): A GFCI is designed to instantly interrupt the flow ofelectricity in the event of a short circuit, before it can become a danger. A short circuit is basicallywhen electricity finds an alternate path to ground, instead of going through the intended circuit. Ashort circuit can happen within an electrical device, or it can happen through a person who hasunknowingly provided a shorter electrical path to ground. I recommend using a GFCI in conjunctionwith this device. Probably the easiest way to do this is to purchase an extension chord or a powerstrip that has a GFCI as part of the unit. Modern building codes in the United States require allkitchens, bathrooms and out-door circuits to have GFCI circuit breakers or receptacles.

SCR: The SCR (Silicon Controlled Rectifier) and has three contacts. In my device the SCR ismounted onto a home-made bracket to again add more stability to the circuit components. Thebracket for the SCR and all other components of this device are mounted to an insulative plexiglassub-floor using 1/2 inch #4 standard machine screws .

1.) Anode: The entire casing of the SCR, including the treaded portion and the threaded nut (whenattached), is the Anode and is HOT when the unit is fired up. The SCR I used had an insulator toinsulate the Anode from a mounting bracket. Included with the threaded nut and insulator, was also ametal ring which serves as the Anode solder point. See diagram and photo below.

2.) Gate: In Chris Gupta's circuit, the Gate of the SCR connects to one side of the Push-To-Makeswitch. On the SCR that I used, the Gate was the shorter of the two solder points coming up from thetop of the unit.

3.) Cathode: Again, on the SCR that I used, the Cathode was the longer and thicker of the two solderpoints coming up from the top of the unit. It connects to one lead of the coil.

Note: The other lead from the coil is soldered to the negative buss of the photo flash capacitor array.See schematic and Photos.

I used a 3/4 inch EMT (electrical conduit) mounting bracket to fabricate a U shaped bracket to mountthe SCR to. First I pounded the bracket flat, and then bent and cut it to the desired shape. The bracketwas mounted to the sub-floor using one 3/8 inch #4 phillips machine screw, lock washer and nut. Ihad to shorten the length of the machine screw in order maximize the distance between the end of thescrew and the bottom of the SCR. The bracket had to be short enough to provide enough clearancefor the box cover, but long enough to provide sufficient clear space for the bottom end of the SCR.See photo below. The SCR attaches to the bracket between the two insulators. When the assembly istightened, the insulator provides effective insulation for a metal bracket.

I should perhaps mention that I drilled a hole into the top surface of the bracket that was largeenough for the protrusion of the upper insulator to fit through. The lower insulating ring comes upunderneath the bracket and is held in place by the Anode solder point ring and finally the nut. SeeSCR diagram above.

I wired the ground wire to the housing of the Push-to Make switch as this is the only metalcomponent I touch during the operation of the Pulser. I decided to use a plastic box over a metal one,because there is so much current flying around and I wanted reduce the chance of any short circuits. Ialso made sure that all of the components were all sufficiently spaced apart from each other.Since there is a fair amount of current flying around this machine, Chris Gupta recommended not touse a printed circuit board to build this device. That is also why I opted to implement the use of aninsulated plexiglas sub-floor to mount all of the components to.

Bulbs and Lamp Holders : I used candelabra lamp holders as they take up less space and are lessbulky. Holes of the appropriate size were drilled into the top of the box about 1 inch in from the

edges. The main thing here, is to make sure that the bulbs are not touching when screwed into thesockets. My pulser makes use of two spherical shaped 60W bulbs. The spherical bulbs were moreaesthetically pleasing to me than traditional candelabra bulbs. Should a bulb burn out, replace itbefore continued use. In Chris Gupta's design the bulbs act as current limiters and protect the SCRfrom short-circuiting.

Note: Keep in mind that the bulbs do get hot if you are using the pulser for several minutes at a time.

Inductor Coil: If you want to go the easy way like me, and don't want to go through the hassle ofbuilding your own coil, one can purchased from Madisound Speaker Components, Inc. This link willtake you to the correct page on their web site. You are wanting the Sidewinder 2.5 mH 16AWG AirCore Inductor Coil. It costs only $14.30.

Note 1: The AMS coil that is listed in numerous Beck texts as an alternative to building your own, isno longer manufactured.

Connecting the Inductor Coil and the Switch: The inductor coil attaches to the Cathode of theSCR and to the negative 'Contact Bar' of the capacitor bank. The push-to-make switch attaches tothe gate of the SCR and to one of the following: directly to the + buss or contact bar of the capacitorbank, between the positive buss buss of the capacitor bank and the anode of the SCR (See Photos), ordirectly to the anode of the SCR. However you hook up the switch, keep in mind there is a 10Kresistor between the switch and Anode of the SCR.

Photo Flash Capacitors: The ability of a capacitor to store a charge is measured in 'Farads'. Mostcapacitors are labeled in Micro Farads (uF). The photo-flash capacitors you see in the tray below, allcame from one run to a local drug store that does photo processing. They are all from an assortmentof disposable flash cameras and range from 80uF - 160uF.

On this occasion I hit the jackpot as the camera recycle bin was full. I could have selected twice asmany. Different camera manufactures and even cameras from the same company will often have capsof different ratings, ranging anywhere from 330V 80uF - 330V 160uF, and on occasion even higher.Larger capacitors with higher voltage and uF ratings can store more energy. When hooked up inparallel the uF ratings are cumulative. Two capacitors rated at 330V 80uF hooked up in parallel, willhave a combined rating of 330V 160uF. When hooked up in series, it is the voltage rating thatincreases. The same two capacitors hooked up in series would have a combined rating of 660V 80uF.Note how the capacitance is NOT additive when hooking capacitors up in series. For moreinformation on hooking capacitors up in series click on this link.

Chris Gupta offers the following general rule of thumb about capacitors hooked together in a parallelconfiguration: The voltage flowing through a set of capacitors in parallel, should not exceed thevoltage of the lowest rated capacitor. For example if you connect a 330V 80uF capacitor and a 150V80uF capacitor together in parallel, the combined voltage rating of the two will be 150V.

Capacitor Ratings From Various Cameras I Have OpenedAll 330VKodak Power Flash: 120uF & 160uF (two slightly different models)Kodak Zoom: 100uF & 120uFKodak FunSaver: 120uFPolaroid Fun Shooter: 80uFFuji QuickSnap Flash: Unknown, but guess 100uFFuji QuickSnap Flash 1000: Unknown, but guess 160uFStudio 35: 80uF

Click here for more information on capacitor charge calculations.

Observing Chris Gupta's circuit design, you see that his schematic calls for one 150V 130uFcapacitor just past the two bulbs. All of the caps I have removed from disposable cameras are allrated at 330V. According to Chris Gupta, it is OK to use a 330V capacitor in this location.Hypothetically, if one were using 330V 80uF caps to build a pulser, one might consider using two80uF caps hooked together in parallel to bring the combined uF rating up to 160uF. Likewise for thecapacitor array; if all one had was 80uF caps to build a pulser with, one might want to add capacitorsto the array in order to reach the 650 combined uF (micro farads) called for in Chris Gupta's design.In this case one might consider using 8 - 9, 80uF capacitors in the pulser construction, providing acombined rating of 640uF and 720uF respectively.

To be consistent in my pulser design, I used all identical caps from Fuji cameras for the 5 (and now7) capacitors in my array (see images below). There are two basic designs in Fuji disposablecameras. One uses a larger cap than the other. Because the caps in Fuji cameras are not labeled, I hadno way to tell for sure, what the combined uF rating is for the capacitor array in my pulser. I cameacross a source on the internet, that gave me a clue that the capacitors in my pulser may have a ratingof 160uF, as the capacitors Fuji uses, seem to be either 100uF or 160uF. Since I used the larger of thetwo capacitors in my design, I can assume that the caps in my pulser are 330V 160uF. If this is thecase then the capacitor array in my pulser has a combined rating of 330V 1120uF (160uF X 7 =1120uF).

The negative terminal of electrolytic capacitors is marked by a stripe running down the side. Two5-contact, Terminal Contact Bars were used to solder the photo flash capacitors to. As the capacitorsneed to be connected in parallel, each Terminal Contact Bar has a piece of 14 gage copper wiresoldered at each contact across the span of the bar to unify all contacts. The Negative pole of eachcapacitor is soldered to one contact of the terminal contact bar and the same for the positive side ofthe capacitors. Be sure the screw mounts are facing toward the outside. Once the capacitors weresoldered in place, I marked the hole locations on the plexiglas sub-floor and drilled the holes. Theassembly was then fastened to the sub floor with 1/2 inch #4 phillips machine screws, lock washersand nuts. See images below.

Most often capacitors in spent disposable cameras will still have a charge and can shock you iftouched. If you attempt to build your own pulser, please be sure to always discharge capacitorsbefore removing them from a camera.

SHOCK HAZARD: If you disassemble a camera, be extremely careful when removing the cover andhandling components. Avoid touching any of the circuitry until the capacitor has been discharged. Irecently got shocked from a camera that had a 330V 80uF capacitor inside, and it really hurt! The joltwent up my whole right arm and it took about a half an hour for my hand and arm to feel normal

again. Capacitors are not to be taken lightly and should be considered dangerous and potentiallylife-threatening!

Making a Capacitor Discharge Tool: One can make acapacitor discharge tool with two insulated alligator clips,about 16 inches of 14 gage stranded wire and a 10,000ohm, wire-wound, 10 Watt resistor. Solder an insulatedalligator clip to either end of the insulated wire. Then cutthe wire about 7 inches from one end, and solder theresistor in place. Now wrap the resistor and solder pointswith at least three layers of ELECTRICAL TAPE.

Discharging Capacitors: Carefully connect the alligatorclips to the capacitor terminals (one clip to each exposedterminal). The resistor will drop the voltage down in aminute or so.

About the Single Capacitor Just Past the Bulbs: Chris Gupta told me that one can use the samePhoto Flash Capacitor in this location, that is called for in the five capacitor array. As mentionedabove, if one only had 330V 80uF caps to work with, one might consider using two 80uF capshooked together in parallel to bring the combined uF rating up to 160uF.

Diodes: Diodes are also directional and must be installed properly. Their primary function is toinsure the flow of current is only in one direction. This symbol is used to indicate a diode in acircuit diagram. Current flows from the cathode side to the anode side. If they are installed with thepolarity reversed, your pulser will not work. The stripe on any diode indicates the cathode side andthe negative pole.

About flying fender washers: My washers don't fly up from the center of the coil as with someother designs. Washers on my unit fly in line with the sides of the coil. When experimenting withthis, one needs to play around with the magnetic field until one finds the right spot. Once I figuredout the correct positioning for the washer, I was able to get a 1-1/2 inch fender washer to soar about40 inches into the air. Pretty amazing!

Starting my Pulser for the First Time: I didn't know what to expect when I plugged the chord intothe outlet and pressed the on switch for the first time. The lights came on momentarily and then wentout. Chris Gupta told me this was normal.

Should you build your own machine based on this design, and after turning the unit on, the lightscome on and stay on, immediately turn the machine off and troubleshoot your assembly! Also if thelights don't come on at all, then something is amiss as well. I had rubber gloves on when I pressedthe push-to-make switch for the first time. When pressing the push-to-make switch the lights shownbrightly and I could hear a slight momentary sound from the wires in the coil. Again, Chris said thiswas normal. All was well and I had successfully built my pulser. After repeated pulses, the coil willbegin to get warm. This too is normal.

Note: Always press and instantly release the push-to-make switch. The circuit is designed forrepeated but momentary bursts of electromagnetic pulses. Keeping the push-to-make switchdepressed will damage your pulser.

Chris Gupta's EM Pulser Circuit

Those interested in using a 12 V DC source use a cheap 75 watt car inverter I bought one on sale forjust $7 Cdn! Simply remove one of the bulbs. This of course is easier if at least one bulb is in asocket.

Images of my Pulser Below

Image below is of my modified pulser with 7 Photo-Flash CapacitorsNotice the additional 2 capacitors and the additional solder point bars.

When I discharged the capacitor array, it sounded like a firecracker going off in my ear and the tipsof the 14 gage wire were slightly melted. There was a noticeable difference in the discharge strengthof seven capacitors as compared to five. One does not want to get shocked by that! A jolt like thatgoing across one's heart could be lethal! - Please be careful and always discharge capacitors, even ifyou think they are not charged. Instructions to build a capacitor discharge tool that will safelydischarge a bank of capacitors is outlined above.

Some more technical information provided by Sota Instruments regarding the construction ofelectromagnetic pulsers can be found by clicking on this link.

Please post any successes, failures, comments or questions on Chris Gupta's Pulser web page.Some individuals have posted claims that Chris' design is flawed. I for one, can attest that his design

is sound and works well!

If you decide this project is more than you wish to tackle on your own, I would considerbuilding one for you. Price $300.

Disclaimer: This device is made and sold for experimental purposes only. Stephen Heydonassumes no responsibility as to the safety of this machine, nor does he make any claims as to

how to use it. Any one who purchases this experimental Electromagnetic Pulse Device, does soat their own risk.

Please feel free to contact me.