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7/23/2019 Build Beck Pulser http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/build-beck-pulser 1/28  ‘Bob Beck’ Blood Electrifier Low Voltage 4Hz Pulser Building Instructions Dedicated to my friend ‘Dogman’ – a gentleman and scholar.  This document is public domain and free to all those who wish to experiment with this device and ‘take back their power ’from International Drug Cartels that purposely enslave us and profit from an unhealthy population. These instructions shall not be sold, but given freely; in the original spirit of Dr. Robert Beck DSc.  Instructions on the use of this device are contained in a separate document; or they can be  found on the internet by using a search engine.

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    Bob Beck Blood Electrifier

    Low Voltage 4Hz Pulser

    Building Instructions

    Dedicated to my friend Dogman a gentleman and scholar.

    This document is public domain and free to all those who wish to experiment with this device and takeback their power from International Drug Cartels that purposely enslave us and profit from anunhealthy population. These instructions shall not be sold, but given freely; in the original spirit ofDr. Robert Beck DSc.

    Instructions on the use of this device are contained in a separate document; or they can befound on the internet by using a search engine.

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    1. Background History

    In 1991 Dr Robert Beck DSc, a Physicist, began treating diseases using pulsed micro-currentsdelivered to the skin above blood vessels in the arm, that was found to neutralize viruses,bacteria and other pathogens circulating in the blood. The technique was based on earlierwork carried out by Doctors William Lyman and Steven Kaali in 1990, where during

    laboratory tests they found that viruses were neutralized in HIV infected blood, when theblood was subjected to low electrical currents of 50 to 100 microamperes. Lyman and Kaalilater published a technical paper detailing their work, which has since disappeared, but theypatented a proposed invasive means of applying their technique in 1993 (US Patent5,188,738).

    In 1996 Dr Beck improved his design by replacing the relays in his original circuit with anintegrated circuit, making it solid state and more durable. The unit runs on 3 of 9V PP3batteries (total 27V) and delivers approximately 100 milliamps to the skin above the radialand ulnar arteries on one wrist via two short electrodes. Allowing for resistance lossesthrough the tissues above the arteries, between 50 and 100 microamps of current is delivered

    to the circulating blood.

    At the time of writing (2015) many blood pulsers are available on the market at a range ofprices. Probably the most well known of these products is made by SOTA, who workedclosely with Dr Beck and who were endorsed by him. Their product The Silver Pulser is animplementation of Dr Becks 1996 circuit and provides microampere pulsing to the blood, asdescribed above, and also makes colloidal silver.

    It is however, our belief that a colloidal silver generator should be a separate device poweredby a mains supply, whilst the blood electrifier should run on batteries and be a stand-alone


    This document is a comprehensive set of instructions to help the interested person to buildtheir own blood electrifier-pulser. The electronic components available today are of betterquality than those available when Dr Beck first made his circuit. A small modification hasbeen made to the battery indicator LED part of Dr Becks circuit to compensate for thedifferent properties of LED resistance and output now observed in newer components.

    The resourceful builder may choose to make their blood pulser of a different configuration tothat described here. This is perfectly acceptable, and with determination the builder may find

    he can make a device cheaper than that detailed here. Our design incorporates some of themore expensive components, like battery compartments and case, because they are resilientand well made. Following these instructions will still enable a functioning device to be madeat a fraction of the cost of anything similar available through retail channels.

    What the enthusiast requires is some practical skills such as drilling, soldering and boltingsmall objects together. Sufficient illustrations and photographs are included to make the jobeasier. By way of tools, a good fine-pointed soldering iron, small screwdrivers, small pliersand snips, small drill and drill-bits, file, craft knife and masking tape are minimumrequirements.

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    2.General Specifications

    Dr Becks blood electrification device can be built from the circuit schematic and instructionsfreely available on the internet. However, some knowledge interpreting circuit diagrams andalso a feeling for how the device can be designed are necessary. We have written thisdocument in order that those with no experience of electronics are capable of building this

    device, empowering them to take back their health.

    As already stated, if the experimenter wishes to deviate from these instructions, for exampleuse a different enclosure and battery compartments, he is free to do so; provided the circuitschematics are followed, a good working device can be made.

    Below is a picture of the completed device as described. Note that the 3.5mm mini-jacksocket where the electrode leads are connected is situated on the front face of the device, outof picture.

    Figure 2.1. Blood Pulser Unit General Arrangement (Electrode leads not shown)

    The enclosure is 150mm long, 80mm high and 50mm deep, which is the smallest size boxcapable of being used with the specified battery compartments. Electrode leads made from1.3 metre long twin core flat pair mains cable (5A) fitted with a 3.5mm mini jack plug take thesignal to the treatment site.

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    3.Circuit Schematics

    The figure below shows Dr Becks circuit diagram from 1996. There is nothing wrong withthis circuit. Literally thousands of these devices have been built by experimenters over thepast 18 years. However, electronic components, especially LEDs, have undergone someminor improvements since this circuit was designed. After testing the circuit with good

    quality LEDs available today, we found it necessary to make a minor alteration to the batteryindicator part of Dr Becks circuit, in order that a clearer indication of the batteries state ofcharge can be determined.

    Figure 3.1. Original 1996 Bob Beck Improved Schematic

    The above diagram includes the facility to produce Colloidal Silver. This may have some useif the owner of the device is travelling and unable to access mains power for long periods oftime. Another advantage would be the convenience and portability of having the two devicesin one enclosure.

    Our opinion is that a Colloidal Silver Generator should be a separate device operating frommains electricity stepped down by a regulated power supply. Much experimentation hasconvinced us that the best quality Colloidal Silver requires several hours to produce, using aDC voltage that has its current limited to an optimum value governed by the electrodesurface area. In addition, it is better to produce Colloidal Silver in minimum quantities ofbetween one and two litres for product consistency. With this in mind we have writtencomprehensive instructions on how to build a superior Colloidal Silver Generator, containedin another document. Therefore our implementation of Dr Becks circuit does not include ameans to produce Colloidal Silver. It is a stand alone Blood Electrifier.

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    Figure 3.2. Modified Schematic Circuit Diagram

    The above schematic is Dr. Becks 1996 circuit with the battery indicator part redrawn tooptimize performance of LEDs available today. It can be seen that the layout of the circuithas been changed to make it simpler to follow. If you dont believe this, just compare withfigure 3.1 and trace the lines from each component to the next. You will see it is the samecircuit.

    The circuit is built on Veroboard, which is a reinforced plastic sheet with copper tracks onone side. An array of holes is drilled in the sheet and the components contacts are passedthrough these holes and soldered onto the copper tracks on the opposite side of the board. Itis a very simple and effective means of building electronic prototypes.

    Veroboard is a proprietary name and a similar product may be available having anotherproduct name, such as Eurocard or prototype board. The board size used here is 100mm x160mm, with 1mm diameter holes set in an array of 2.54mm pitch. This is a commonspecification and allows standard components, such as chip sockets, to fit the board precisely.

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    A piece of the Veroboard needs to be cut to fit the enclosure, and your circuit will be builtupon this piece of board. The board is cut easily by scoring along a line using a steel straightedge and a sharp craft knife (e.g. Stanley Knife). Once scored, the board can be bent alongthe line of the scored groove and it will break cleanly along the groove. When cutting along

    the direction of the tracks, score the line betweentwo tracks on the same side as the coppertracks, and break. When cutting across the tracks, score your line deeply along a line of holeson the same side as the copper tracks so that the linepasses througha line of holes. Bend andbreak the board along your line as before.

    Figure 4.1. Veroboard Cut to Size to Fit the Enclosure Side to Side

    You will want your piece of Veroboard to be a good fit in your enclosure, so try to be accurate

    in cutting to plus or minus 1mm if possible. You can cut slightly oversize and file the boarddown to the exact size you want.

    Remember not to bridge the gaps between each track, as there must be no electrical contactbetween them. You can clear debris between the tracks using the tip of your craft knife. Amagnifying glass is useful to inspect your finished board.

    The enclosure we have selected to build the device is made to accommodate Veroboard, andas such it is slotted within in both directions so that pieces of board can be held between theslots on each side.

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    Figure 4.2. Enclosure and Veroboard Fitted Between Internal Slots

    Now that your piece of Veroboard fits snugly between the slots inside the enclosure, youcan proceed to the other steps in preparing the parts for assembly. First ensure that theenclosure lid fits without interference. There needs to be a gap if about 4mm between the topof the Veroboard and the inside of the lid. When the device is complete, thin wires will passacross the top of the board and they must not be pinched between the lid and edge of theboard.

    The next step is to remove a small part of two copper tracks where the LM358 chip will be

    positioned. The LM358 chip has two rows of four pins (8 pins in total) that are separatecontacts, and so the portion of track between opposite pins must be removed so that each pinis electrically isolated. This will be made clear in the following illustrations.

    Removing portions of the copper tracks is relatively easy. Again, a magnifying glass makesthis easy. Where you cut can be marked first using a CD marking pen if need be. Use astraight edge and craft knife to score across the tracks through the copper only. Score twolines through the tracks you want to remove, but do not score outside the area to be removed.Be careful not to score too close to the holes where the LM358 chip pins will be soldered. Youmust leave enough copper around these holes to solder onto.

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    Figure 4.3. Veroboard Track Removal Configuration (Viewed from plain side)

    The above diagram shows the amount of copper tracks to be excavated using your craft knife.First score the tracks then peel away with the tip of the knife, making sure that no copperremains and the end result is neat and tidy.

    Note that the diagram above shows the board looking from above, onto the plain sidewithout the tracks. The tracks are on the underside of the board, the components aremounted on the top (plain) side. Note also the numbers and letters. These must be followedexactly, as your components are placed according to the numbers.

    The chip is housed in a chip socket, and it is the chip socket that will be soldered into holesH20, I20, J20, K20 and H23, I23,J23,K23. Be sure you remove the copper tracks only fromwhere you must. Cutting across any other copper track will render it useless.

    In the diagram above, holes from 1 to 6 have not been shown for clarity, as the circuit is built

    mostly to the right hand side of the board.

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    Figure 4.4. Veroboard With Track Areas Removed for Fitting of Chip Sockets

    The above photo shows two prepared boards with copper track removed from between theholes where each chip socket will be soldered. Once the track has been removed, carefullyinsert the chip socket through the holes on the plain side of the board. Make sure theorientation of the chip socket is correct. The socket will have a small indentation at one endbetween where pins 1 and 8 are located. See Figure 5.1 for clarity. It is important that thesocket is fitted the right way around.

    To ensure the socket is soldered such that it is all the way home, or as far onto the board as itcan go, you can use something to weigh the board down during soldering, so that the socketpins are fully through the board.

    The following photo shows the chip socket soldered when viewed onto the back of the board.A soldering iron with a five tip is needed for this work. Also remember to complete eachsoldered joint quickly, and do not let components overheat by a too long application of thesoldering iron. This is especially important when soldering diodes and transistors; it is whywe use a chip socket and dont solder the pins of the chip itself directly onto the board.

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    5.Building the Circuit

    The illustration below shows all components soldered into position on the completed boardwhen viewed onto the plain side. Soldering is carried out on the back side where the coppertracks are.

    Note the chip orientation. Pin 1 is always at the top left corner of the chip and the pinnumbers run sequentially anti-clockwise around the chip by convention. The chip will eitherhave pin 1 identified or have an indentation at the top centre between pins 1 and 8. Similarly,the chip socket will have the top centre identified with an indentation.

    Figure 5.1. Wiring Schematic on the Veroboard (Viewed from above)

    It is better to start the work by soldering the linkage wires first, as already mentioned. Theseare shown in brown on the sketch above. When this is completed, the board will look like thefollowing photo.

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    Figure 5.2. Wire Links Soldered in Place

    Soldering the remaining components in place is a simple operation, provided some basicprecautions are observed.

    Firstly, remember not to over-apply the soldering heat. Solder each joint quickly to avoiddamaging the components, and use only as much solder as is required to make a neat joint.The joints are small and a magnifying class is helpful. The kind of desk magnifier with itsown light source is excellent if you can get one.

    Use a heat sink when soldering diodes, as they are sensitive to heat. This could be a sparecrocodile clip, that can be attached to the component wire on the opposite side of the board tothe soldered joints. This will conduct heat away from the component during soldering.

    Finally, pay attention to the polarity of some components. The Zener Diodes have a colouredband around them at the negative (cathode) end. In addition, the capacitor used in thiscircuit has polarity and must be soldered the right way around. These capacitors also havethe negative terminal marked in some way; use a magnifying glass to find the polarity.Often, one wire is shorter than the other. LEDs also have a correct polarity, and you mayhave to look at the component datasheet found on the internet to determine polarity.

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    Figure 5.3. Completed Circuit Ready for Wiring Harness

    The completed circuit is shown above. This is now ready for soldering the flexible wires thatwill connect it to the batteries, switch, LEDs and mini-jack socket fitted elsewhere on theenclosure.

    The wire used is multi-strand prototype wire, the equivalent size to the single strand wireused as links on the board. Multi-strand is preferred as it can be bent repeatedly withoutbreaking, and needs to be flexible.

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    Figure 5.4. Completed Board and Wiring Harness

    Note that at this point the chip has not been inserted into the socket. We normally leave thisstep until last as the chip is easily damaged and should be protected from static discharge.

    Now the board is complete, you may start preparing the enclosure. You might find it usefulto mark the end of each wire with masking tape and label where each wire should besoldered onto. Alternatively use coloured wires and make a note of each destination.

    The enclosure can be protected by masking tape and you may mark the positions of various

    components onto the tape with pencil. It is important to be absolutely sure where eachcomponent should go, so that it does not clash with the circuit board within the case. Domany trial fittings first. Remember, measure twice cut once.

    The most important parts to locate are the battery boxes. These must be located as far downone end and as far to the bottom of the enclosure as possible, to make room for othercomponents. It will be a tight fit.

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    6.Completing the Enclosure

    The photo below shows the enclosure covered with masking tape and marked for cutting anddrilling. The battery boxes require some work because they have a lip/ridge all the wayaround so that they can be mounted within a slot cut into an enclosure. However, since youwill mount two together, this ridge must be removed on one side of each battery box in order

    that they may sit side by side. This is easily done with a small hacksaw, finishing off with afile. Also the opposite ends can be trimmed down to remove the remaining holes. The boxesare glued into the enclosure using fast-setting araldite.

    Figure 6.1. Enclosure and Battery Boxes Ready for Cutting and Drilling

    The lid of the enclosure should be marked where the centres of the Potentiometer (variableresistor), LED sockets and switch are to be fitted. Be absolutely sure where these will go as toavoid contact with the board and battery boxes inside the enclosure.

    In addition, a hole must be drilled in the front face of the enclosure (right end in the photoabove) where the mini-jack socket goes. When this has been drilled, some of the ridges insidethe enclosure around the drilled hole must be pared away with a craft knife or small chisel.This is so that the mini-jack socket can fit correctly inside the enclosure.When the preparatory work is complete, your enclosure and lid should look something likethe photo below. Note that the LEDs are fitted within sockets. In the photo, the LEDs havenot yet been inserted into the LED sockets.

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    Figure 6.2. Enclosure and Lid After Fitting Components

    Note that in the above photo the ridges around the battery boxes have been trimmed back sothat the boxes can fit together. The ridges around the other 3 sides of each box have beentrimmed back so they protrude about 3mm from the box. This is sufficient to prevent themslipping inside the enclosure and facilitates gluing in place later.

    It is a good idea to put masking tape on the enclosure where you do not want to get epoxyadhesive by mistake. When the battery boxes are glued in place, the tape can be removed

    before the glue sets hard. This will ensure a neater job. Nail varnish remover will cleanepoxy provided it has not set. Using another solvent might damage the surface of theenclosure.

    The variable resistor (potentiometer) usually has a turning arc of about of a turn or morefrom low to full. Do not worry too much about orientation, as this can be resolved whenyou come to fit the knob later.

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    Figure 6.3. Battery Boxes Glued in Place

    Figure 6.4. Reverse Side of Board Showing Soldering

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    Figure 7.1. Additional Component Wiring Schematic

    The above schematic shows the layout of additional wiring used to complete the enclosureand join the additional components with the circuit board. Pay attention to the way the LEDsare wired. We have used two dual-colour (red/green) LEDs. They both flash red and greenalternately, and if wired in parallel with opposite polarity, as shown above, they will bothlight at the same time but of different colour, and change colour 4 times per second. This isbetter for determining the battery condition. As battery voltage drops over time the LEDswill no longer flash green, though the red will still be visible until battery voltage drops

    below anything useful. Then it is time to change the batteries.

    The LEDs should be fitted within the sockets in the lid and wired together by using a smalloffcut of Veroboard. They are soldered onto the Veroboard. As mentioned previously,LEDs are very sensitive to heat and must be soldered using a heat sink clipped to the LEDwire that is being soldered. Try to keep soldering time to a minimum and blow repeatedly onthe soldered joint to cool it before removing the heat sink.

    The photo on the following page shows the arrangement for soldering the LEDs using a smallpiece of spare Veroboard to join them in parallel, positive to negative, so that they light red

    and green alternately.

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    Figure 7.2. LED Soldering Method

    Once the LEDs are soldered, the remaining components can be joined as shown in Figure 7.1.Some care should be taken when connecting the mini-jack socket. Note that the LED batteryindicator should light only when the electrode leads are unplugged. Inserting a mini-jackplug into the socket, breaks the flow of electricity through the LED part of the circuit. It isimportant to find out what terminal of the mini-jack socket does what. There is a contact tothe positive (tip) of the jack plug and a contact to the negative (main part) of the plug. Thethird (often centre) contact of the mini-jack socket does nothing when a plug is inserted, asthe contact with the positive terminal is broken. You can use a jack plug and voltmeter to

    determine which contact is which prior to soldering wires to the terminals.

    The remaining soldering is fairly straightforward. However, care needs to be taken whenconsidering which contacts on the variable resistor are used. There will be 3 contacts andonly 2 are required for soldering. Use a multimeter set for measuring resistance and find outwhich pair of contacts give the lowest resistance when the potentiometer is turned fullyclockwise. One of the contacts will be the centre and the other correct contact will be one ofthe two end contacts. If this is not done correctly, the current control know will work in theopposite direction to that which is desired, i.e. low current when the knob is turned fullyclockwise. A little care at this point will help avoid any embarrassing mistakes.

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    Figure 7.3. Soldering of All Components Completed

    Your completed wiring should look something like in the photo above. Test that the lid willfit and no two components touch one another.

    The LM358 chip is very sensitive to static electricity discharge, and can be destroyed easily ifyou touch it when your body holds a static charge. Your body can be discharged using anearthing (or grounding) strap fitted to your wrist. The strap connects by cable to an earthingpoint on a mains outlet wall socket.

    If you do not possess such a thing, then an alternative is to wire up a standard mains plug sothat just the earth terminal is connected to a wire, the other end of which is pared back andheld in the hand. The wall outlet can be switched off. You can touch your screwdriver andpliers with the wire in order to discharge them also. Once you are satisfied that you havedischarged your body and any tools you might use, remove the LM358 chip from its anti-static bag. Note the position of pin 1 on the chip and ensure it goes in the socket the rightway around. Again, a magnifying glass is helpful to ensure all the pins are located in thecorresponding holes in the socket. You might find a small screwdriver helpful for springingthe pins of one side into the holes. Push the chip firmly home.

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    Figure 7.4. LM358 Chip Located in the Socket

    Now the board can be inserted into the slotted enclosure. If your positioning of the LEDs,switch and potentiometer were correct, there should be adequate room for the board to befitted and the lid to close with no clashing of components. It may be necessary to bend one ormore of the resistors and/or capacitor to one side to give clearance.

    There should also be enough space between the board top edge and inside of lid to allowsome of the wires to pass through the space above the board edge.

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    8.Completing the Device

    Congratulations! You have now completed your Dr Beck Blood Electrifier. With three 9Vbatteries fitted, switch on the device and the LEDs should flash red and green alternately asshown below.

    Figure 8.1. Completed Device Switched On

    If these instructions have been followed exactly, your device will work as described. If not,then you have some troubleshooting ahead.

    The most common cause of failure to operate is the LM358 chip is dud. Quite often you canbe sold a dud chip, it does happen. Otherwise somehow you have subject it to heat or a staticdischarge. Carefully change the chip and switch on again. Test the output at the jack socketwith a voltmeter; you should read a fluctuating voltage. If you get a reading and the LEDsstill do not light, then it is likely you have dud LEDs. You can damage your LEDs (or evenone of the colours) by too much heat when soldering.

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    9.Electrodes and Leads

    Dr. Becks original instructions specify stainless steel electrodes, and these are perfectlyacceptable. If the experimenter wishes to go down this route, we recommend 2.6mm stainlesswelding rods of 316 material. They are however, difficult to solder wires onto.

    We use 2mm diameter silver wire. The reason for this is that we use the same material for theelectrodes in our Colloidal Silver Generators, and so we have it available. Pure silver has thebenefit of being easy to solder, and is a very good conductor of electricity. It is also easy tocut, bend and shape.

    Cut your silver wire into lengths of about 33mm. Slightly flatten one end of each electrodewith a hammer and using a file, round the opposite end. Finish off by smoothing with fineemery paper. Your electrodes should look something like in the photo below.

    Figure 9.1. Completed Silver Electrodes

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    The cable used to solder onto the electrodes can be any low resistance cable available,provided it can tolerate bending and being coiled. We use a two core mains cable like a flatpair, that is small enough to be fitted to a 3.5mm mini-jack plug.

    You will need a length of cable between 1.3 and 1.5 metres for each set of electrodes. Oncethe electrodes are soldered onto one end of the cable, we use heat-shrink covers to make atidy job. These can be bought in most hi-fi or electrical stores. Just place over the soldered

    joint and heat with a heat gun or over a flame, being careful not to burn the heat shrink.

    Figure 9.2. Soldered Electrodes and Heat Shrinks Over Soldering

    We also use heat shrinks to prevent excessive bending of the cable where it joins the mini-jack

    plug, and also where we split the cable about 150mm back from the electrodes to prevent itsplitting further.

    For a neat job you can use one heat shrink above another to make a thicker sleeve oversoldered joints.

    A completed electrode lead should look something like the first photo on the next page.

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    Figure 9.3. Completed Electrode Leads

    Figure 9.4. Beck Device and Electrode Leads Complete

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    Finally, the device should not be used with the bare electrodes contacting the skin as this canresult in mild burns to the skin due to intermittent electrical contact.

    As described by Dr Beck, sleeves made from thin cotton or linen fabric should be made tocover the electrodes. These in turn need to be saturated with saline solution when in contactwith the skin, each electrode situated above the treatment sites as specified by Dr Beck.

    The sleeves are made by cutting a small piece of fabric and taking 3 turns around theelectrode. Using a needle and thread, make 2 or 3 stitches through the fabric at the base of theelectrode then wind a spiral to the end of the electrode and take 1 or 2 stitches right through.Take 2 turns around the electrode, another stitch right through then wind a spiral back downthe electrode in the opposite direction. Finish by taking a couple of stitches trough and tiesoff using 2 or 3 knots.

    You completed electrode sleeves should look like those in the photo below.

    Figure 9.5. Cotton Electrode Sleeves

    To ensure good conductivity, the electrode sleeves and skin at the place of application shouldbe soaked with saline. We use Aloe Vera gel, though any gel is conductive and will getcurrent into the skin. Gel has been found to be better as it does not dry out so quickly, thoughyou need to apply more at about 30 minute intervals to ensure continual conductivity.

    Elasticated material is useful for keeping the electrodes on the required location.Alternatively wrist bands are available in many sports shops. Remember to rinse the sleeves(whilst still on the electrodes) after use. When dry they can be carefully removed to clean theelectrodes. In this way they may be replaced and used many times.

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    10. Technical Data

    Component Supplier/Order No. Price AU$ Price UK

    Plastic Box 150 x 80 x 50mm RS Components. 502-657 10.14 5.20

    Double PP3 Battery Holder RS Components. 501-244 12.64 6.50

    Single PP3 Battery Holder RS Components. 508-116 6.90 3.50

    LED Socket 5mm Element 14. 254976 2.17 1.10

    Mini Jack Socket 3.5mm RS Components. 106-874 1.05 0.53

    Toggle Switch (SPST) RS Components. 518-5291 8.65 4.40

    Board (Veroboard) 100 x 160mm Element 14. 451058 9.07 4.60

    2 Dual Colour LED (Red/Green) Element 14. 1142560 1.00 0.50

    Potentiometer Knob RS Components. 498-851 4.95 2.52

    8-Pin IC Socket Element 14. 1824464 0.31 0.16

    LM 358 Dual Op Amp Chip Element 14. 9486836 0.82 0.42

    R5 Potentiometer 100 k RS Components. 410-233 10.80 5.50

    Capacitor 0.1F 50V Element 14. 1871011 0.05 0.03

    2 Zener Diodes 18V Watt Element 14. 1385618 0.12 0.05

    Resistor R1 2.4 M5% 0.25W RS Components. 707-7931 0.50 0.20

    Resistor R2 150 k1% 0.25W RS Components. 491-1954 0.26 0.13

    2 Resistors R3/R4 100 k0.25W RS Components. 491-1910 0.55 0.26

    Resistor R6 820 1% 0.25W RS Components. 707-7669 0.24 0.13

    Resistor R7 100 1% 0.25W RS Components. 894-9048 0.13 0.07

    Total Component Cost 70.35 35.80

    Table 10.1. Components Used and Their Relative Cost

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    You can see from the previous table that a Beck Device can be made for around AUS $70 orUK 36 (not including leads). Compared with retail products at todays prices (2015) thefollowing:

    Cost for SOTA Pulser is: UK195 (includes silver colloid generator (AU$350)

    Australia KZ-03 Beck Zapper AU$188

    RSG2 Silver Pulser UK228.

    Of course, no money can be placed on the satisfaction gained through building a Beck Deviceyourself.

    Below is an image grab from the oscilloscope when a new device was tested with newbatteries. The probe was connected to the electrode ends directly.

    Figure 10.1 Oscilloscope Image of Device With New Batteries

    The voltage scale (vertical) is set to 10V and time scale (horizontal) to 100 milliseconds. Thepulse amplitude is therefore about 27.5 volts (with new batteries tested at 28.5V) meaning adrop of 1 volt through the circuit, which is expected. This shows the circuit designed by Dr.

    Beck is very efficient.

    Note that the negative pulse time is shorter than the positive time by 20 milliseconds. This isnot critical, and is a reflection of the inconsistencies between component values, in this casethe resistors and capacitor. The frequency is however, very close to the 3.92 Hz (1/2 theearths frequency) specified by Dr. Beck in his 1996 circuit diagram.

    We have found experimentally that the LEDs do not flash green when the combined batteryvoltage drops below 23 volts, though the LEDs continue to flash red brightly. The LEDs stopflashing red when the voltage threshold drops below 21.5 volts. At this time the batteries

    should be changed.